Lush & Efficient PDF Version - Coachella Valley Water District
Lush & Efficient PDF Version - Coachella Valley Water District
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R e v i s e d E d i t i o n<br />
<strong>Lush</strong> &<br />
<strong>Efficient</strong><br />
Landscape Gardening in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong>
L ush & <strong>Efficient</strong><br />
Landscape Gardening in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
R e v i s e d E d i t i o n<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
I RO N WO O D P R E S S<br />
T u c s o n , A r i z o n a
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
<strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong>,<br />
CVWD, is a local government<br />
agency controlled by<br />
five directors elected by the<br />
registered voters within its<br />
1,000 square mile service area.<br />
That area in the southeastern<br />
California desert extends from<br />
west of Palm Springs to the<br />
communities along the Salton<br />
Sea. It is located primarily in<br />
Riverside County but extends<br />
into Imperial and San Diego<br />
Counties.<br />
Peter Nelson, President<br />
Patricia A. “Corky”Larson,<br />
Vice President<br />
Tellis Codekas, Director<br />
Russell Kitahara, Director<br />
John W. “Jack” McFadden,<br />
Director<br />
Steve Robbins, General Manager-<br />
Chief Engineer<br />
Dennis C. Mahr, Director of<br />
Communications and Legislation<br />
Dave Koller, Conservation<br />
Coordinator<br />
Text Copyright © 1988, 2001,<br />
2006<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
All rights reserved. No part of<br />
this book may be reproduced<br />
in any form or by any means,<br />
electronic or mechanical,<br />
including photocopy, without<br />
written permission from<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong>.<br />
Printing 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1<br />
Printed in Korea<br />
The information in this book is<br />
true and accurate to the best of<br />
our knowledge. It is offered<br />
without guarantees on the part<br />
of the authors and the publisher,<br />
who disclaim any liability in<br />
connection with the use of this<br />
information.<br />
Published to promote wise<br />
water use as a public<br />
service by <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
<strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong>.<br />
Address inquiries to:<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
<strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
PO Box 1058<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong>, CA 92236<br />
A version of this<br />
publication appears on<br />
the internet at http://<br />
www.cvwd.org<br />
Cover photo by<br />
Scott Millard<br />
Primary photography by<br />
Scott Millard: © pages 5, 7, 8, 9,<br />
10 (right), 11, 13, 14, 15, 17, 19,<br />
20, 21, 22 (left), 23, 24, 25, 26,<br />
27, 28, 35, 38, 41, 42, 43, 44, 45<br />
(top & lower right), 46 (top left,<br />
bottom center & bottom right),<br />
47 (bottom left inset, bottom<br />
right & upper right), 48 (left &<br />
upper left), 49, 50, 51, 52, 53, 54,<br />
55 (left & center inset & right),<br />
56 (lower left), 57, 58 (upper<br />
left & lower right), 59 (upper<br />
right & lower right), 60 (upper<br />
left & right), 61, 62, 63 (lower<br />
left), 64 (lower left & right),<br />
65, 66, 67, 68, 69, 70, 71 (lower<br />
left & lower right), 72 (upper<br />
& lower left), 73 (upper left),<br />
74, 75, 76, 77, 78, 79 (upper left,<br />
upper right & lower right), 80,<br />
81, 82 (top left & center), 83, 84<br />
(right), 85, 86 (top left, center<br />
left & right), 87, 88, 89 (bottom<br />
left, upper right & lower<br />
right inset), 90, 91 (lower left<br />
& right), 92, 93, 94, 95, 96, 97,<br />
98, 99 (upper left, lower left<br />
& lower right), 100, 101, 102<br />
(left & center), 103, 104, 105,<br />
106, 107, 108 (left & upper<br />
left), 109, 110 (left, upper left<br />
& right), 111, 112 (upper left &<br />
right), 113, 114, 115, 116, 117,<br />
118 (lower left & lower right),<br />
119, 120, 121 (center & upper<br />
right), 122, 123, 124 (upper &<br />
lower left, lower center & lower<br />
right), 125, 126, 127, 128, 129,<br />
130, 131 (upper, lower left &<br />
right), 132, 133, 134, 135, 136,<br />
137, 141, 143, 144, 145, 146, 147,<br />
148, back cover (lower left)<br />
Additional photography by<br />
CVWD: © pages 1, 4, 6, 10<br />
(left), 12, 22 (right), 29, 37, 45<br />
(left), 46 (bottom left), 47 (bottom<br />
left), 48 (right), 56 (upper<br />
left, center & right), 58 (lower<br />
left), 59 (upper left), 63 (lower<br />
right), 64 (upper left), 71 (upper<br />
right), 72 (upper right), 73<br />
(upper right), 82 (bottom left,<br />
right), 84 (left), 86 (bottom left),<br />
89 (bottom right), 91 (upper<br />
right), 108 (right), 110 (center),<br />
112 (lower left), 118 (center<br />
right), 121 (left), 124 (upper<br />
center & upper right), 131<br />
(center), 138, 139, 140, 149, 151,<br />
back cover (top)<br />
Macore Company: © page 73<br />
(lower left)<br />
Janet Rademacher: © pages 60<br />
(bottom left), 79 (center), 99<br />
(upper right), 102 (right), 118<br />
(upper left, upper right)<br />
Kira Rodriguez: © page 55<br />
(center)<br />
Acknowledgements<br />
Directors and staff of the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
extend their gratitude to Scott<br />
Millard of Ironwood Press<br />
in Tucson, Ariz., for bringing<br />
this revised book to fruition.<br />
Scott and primary author Eric<br />
A. Johnson were partners at<br />
Ironwood Press and published<br />
several excellent desert landscaping<br />
books together before<br />
Eric’s death. In this second<br />
revised edition, Scott has significantly<br />
revised the plant<br />
palette with the guidance of<br />
CVWD’s water conservation<br />
staff to add newly introduced<br />
material and eliminate some<br />
that weren’t as well adapted to<br />
the harsh growing conditions<br />
of the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
CVWD directors and staff also<br />
extend their gratitude to the<br />
staff of The Living Desert in<br />
Palm Desert for maintaining<br />
healthy examples of most of the<br />
plants found in this book and<br />
for allowing the water district<br />
to use Living Desert facilities to<br />
conduct its annual homeowners'<br />
landscape workshops.<br />
Ironwood Press acknowledges<br />
Jacqueline A. Soule,<br />
PhD, Tucson, Arizona, for her<br />
contributions in researching<br />
and writing descriptions of<br />
the many new plants in this<br />
edition, as well as updating<br />
information on irrigation and<br />
landscaping.<br />
A special thank you goes to<br />
Ann Copeland, now retired<br />
from CVWD. An educational<br />
specialist who taught water<br />
science to the children of<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, she took on<br />
the additional responsibility<br />
of working closely with Eric<br />
Johnson, reading his text and<br />
identifying photos to illustrate<br />
it. She also worked closely<br />
with contributing author Dave<br />
Harbison in developing and<br />
improving the district's landscape<br />
workshops that supplement<br />
this publication.<br />
CVWD staff who contributed to<br />
the success of this publication<br />
include Dave Koller, conservation<br />
coordinator; Jim Weston,<br />
water management specialist;<br />
Dennis Mahr, director of communications<br />
& legislation; Dave<br />
Anderson, photographer; Bob<br />
Keeran, multimedia specialist,<br />
and Kevin Hemp, education<br />
specialist.<br />
Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Data<br />
Johnson, Eric A.<br />
<strong>Lush</strong> & efficient : landscape gardening in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>/<br />
Eric A. Johnson, David Harbison, Scott Millard.--Rev. ed.<br />
p. cm.<br />
Includes bibliographical references and index.<br />
ISBN-13: 978-0-9762336-1-9<br />
ISBN-10: 0-9628236-6-X (first edition of lush & efficient)<br />
1. Desert gardening--California--<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. 2. Desert<br />
plants--California--<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. I. Harbison, David, 1943-II.<br />
Millard, Scott. III. Title. IV. Title: <strong>Lush</strong> and efficient.<br />
SB427.5.J63 2006<br />
635.9’5250979497--dc22<br />
2006023701
C o n t e n t s<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference....................4<br />
Ingredients of a Desert Garden................07<br />
Landscaping for Climate Control...........10<br />
Grouping Plants by Sun & <strong>Water</strong> Need....12<br />
Selecting and Buying Plants...................14<br />
Pruning by the Seasons.........................15<br />
Planting Step by Step............................16<br />
Fertilizing.............................................18<br />
Mulching to Save <strong>Water</strong>.........................18<br />
Controlling Insect Pests.........................19<br />
Preventing and Controlling Diseases......20<br />
Weed Control........................................21<br />
Month-by-Month Gardening Calendar<br />
for the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>......................21<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation...............................26<br />
Using Technology to Tell How Much<br />
and When to <strong>Water</strong>.............................29<br />
Designing a <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong><br />
Irrigation System....................................30<br />
Irrigation System Components...............30<br />
Irrigation Guide for Landscape Plants....32<br />
Daily Irrigation Schedule for Turfgrass...34<br />
Installing Your Irrigation System........... 35<br />
Retrofitting an Irrigation System........... 39<br />
Maintaining and Troubleshooting<br />
Your Irrigation System............................39<br />
Success with Desert Plants............................42<br />
Introduction.........................................43<br />
Trees.....................................................44<br />
Shrubs..................................................68<br />
Ground Covers.....................................94<br />
Vines...................................................100<br />
Cacti and Succulents...........................106<br />
Ornamental Grasses............................118<br />
Perennials...........................................120<br />
Annuals............................................128<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens....................136<br />
Planning Your Landscape....................137<br />
Landscaping Near Pools and Patios.....140<br />
Small Lawns for Landscapes................142<br />
Container Gardening...........................143<br />
Vegetable Gardens...............................145<br />
Fruits—Trees and More.......................147<br />
Citrus.................................................147<br />
A Dry Creek for Your Landscape..........150<br />
Creating a Wildlife Habitat..................150<br />
Glossary.................................................152<br />
Resources...............................................154<br />
Public Gardens.......................................155<br />
Index......................................................157
u<br />
c h a p t e r o n e<br />
u<br />
The Desert Gardening<br />
Difference<br />
Desert gardens can be lush and efficient. Contrary to the image of<br />
a desert landscape consisting only of cacti, boulders and gravel,<br />
many native and introduced dry-climate trees, shrubs, vines,<br />
ground covers and perennials have lush foliage, distinctive forms and<br />
showy flowers. In fact, a great many native Southwest desert plants provide<br />
even more color and interest over longer periods than their introduced<br />
tropical or subtropical counterparts.<br />
About this Book<br />
This book offers alternatives to high-water, high-maintenance landscapes<br />
in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, typified by tall oleanders for screening and wind<br />
protection, formal trimmed hedges, large, thirsty canopy trees, expansive<br />
lawns and masses of spring annuals. New plants, new designs and new<br />
methods abound for area landscapes. Inside this book, you’ll discover ideas<br />
for gardens that are a harmonious blend of the old and new: subtropical<br />
plants in a private patio garden, set off by a small lawn for close-up viewing<br />
and barefoot pleasure. This type of small yet luxurious garden, called a<br />
mini-oasis, is located where it can be most enjoyed—up close to the house<br />
and outdoor living areas.<br />
Those who prefer low-maintenance gardening in tune with the desert<br />
environment may plant native and introduced, low-water-use trees, shrubs<br />
and ground covers, with cacti and succulents for accents. Building earthen<br />
mounds and dry creek beds and adding naturalistic groupings of boulders<br />
is just one method of creating an appealing focal point that requires little<br />
water and care.<br />
The permanent resident can plan and plant for year-round enjoyment,<br />
while the seasonal visitor can create gardens that bloom for selected months<br />
during spring. How these gardens are created is up to individual tastes and<br />
budgets.<br />
High-water use plants such as hibiscus, azaleas and philodendron typically<br />
have soft tissues that require regular moisture to survive. Many sub-<br />
Left: Adapted low-water-use<br />
plants can thrive in even the<br />
most rugged locations. These<br />
brittlebush shrubs are growing<br />
in their native habitat<br />
near Palm Desert.<br />
Above: White primrose<br />
and purple sand verbena<br />
announce the arrival of spring<br />
in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u
tropicals and tropical plants (nurserymen nickname<br />
them “the green stuff”) are native to regions receiving<br />
50 to 150 inches of rainfall annually. In the high temperatures<br />
and often low humidity of <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
summers, few introduced plants of this kind can survive<br />
without regular applications of water and shelter from<br />
sun and wind.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-efficient natives and many introduced plants<br />
indigenous to low rainfall areas of the United States,<br />
Australia, Africa and the Mediterranean region can be<br />
grown successfully in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Such plants<br />
have the proven ability to survive on little moisture after<br />
they have lived a year or two in the garden. Their physical<br />
makeup allows them to develop leaves, branches<br />
and roots that conserve what water becomes available.<br />
Some adjust to dry spells by going dormant until the<br />
next rain or irrigation. Acacias, mesquites, palo verdes,<br />
African sumac, sennas, Texas ranger, crape myrtle<br />
and Mexican bird-of-paradise are part of this group.<br />
Subtropical bougainvilleas, strangely, flower better<br />
when plants are stressed for water.<br />
Overwatering often creates serious problems. A fine<br />
line exists between the correct amount and excessive<br />
moisture. Although newly planted plants need regular<br />
attention to water needs, it is helpful to keep established<br />
plants on the dry side. Encourage deep and well established<br />
roots with deep irrigations. Plants are more selfreliant<br />
when they become conditioned to extreme heat,<br />
drying winds and cold.<br />
The Economics of Landscape <strong>Water</strong> Use<br />
Most of a homeowner's water use can be traced to use<br />
outdoors rather than indoor use. In fact, it’s estimated<br />
that up to 80 percent of urban water consumption in the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> occurs outside the house.<br />
To reduce water bills, many have opted for a “minimalist”<br />
landscape—a few cacti adorning decorative<br />
gravel. Others, recognizing the physical and psychological<br />
cooling affects of lush landscaping, plant tropical<br />
paradises. Unfortunately, these types of landscapes<br />
require huge volumes of water just to keep plants alive<br />
through <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>'s scorching summers.<br />
However, home gardeners can have the best of both<br />
worlds—lush plantings that thrive with an efficient irrigation<br />
program. The formula includes selecting waterefficient<br />
plants, grouping plants of similar water needs,<br />
and proper installation and maintenance of an irrigation<br />
system.<br />
The <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> is home to a wide range of climate and soil conditions. Selecting adapted plants and<br />
planting them properly will go a long way toward achieving success with your gardens and landscapes.<br />
u The Desert Gardening Difference
Ingredients of a Desert Garden<br />
Heat<br />
When summer temperatures reach 90°F to 120°F and<br />
humidity is low, the toll on young plants can be severe<br />
in a number of ways.<br />
Temperatures in the upper layer of soil can increase,<br />
quickly killing new, shallow roots of annuals and perennials.<br />
Signs are brown leaf edges and wilting of new<br />
growth. In areas of sandy, rapid-draining soils, plants<br />
suffer due to rapid drainage of moisture away from the<br />
root area.<br />
High heat is most stressful on plants grown in nurseries<br />
located in more temperate climates along the<br />
coast, then brought inland to the desert. The sun’s<br />
intensity due to reflected heat from walls and windows<br />
adds to the stress, especially June through September<br />
with a western exposure. Details on how to develop a<br />
landscape that creates shade to reduce energy costs is<br />
described on pages 10 to 12.<br />
Cold Temperatures<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> frost patterns generally occur more<br />
frequently in lower elevations on clear and windless<br />
nights. Dry air temperatures drop about one degree for<br />
every 350 feet decrease in elevation. Cold air draining<br />
down mountain slopes usually settles in washes and in<br />
low pockets.<br />
One sign of a potential for frost is when temperatures<br />
drop to 50 degrees before 9 p.m. in a clear sky and<br />
no wind. Average date for the first killing frost in the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> is November 21, with the last frost<br />
around March 15.<br />
During periods of low temperatures, tender plants can<br />
be protected by covering root areas with 2 to 3 inches<br />
of an organic mulch such as bark or aged, composted<br />
manures. Cold-tender plants in containers should be<br />
moved under the shelter of a wide overhang, patio overhead<br />
or canopy-shaped tree.<br />
When selecting plants, be aware of their inherent<br />
hardiness to frost. (The cold hardiness of each plant<br />
described in this book is provided in the chapter<br />
Success with Desert Plants, pages 42 to 135.) One of<br />
the best methods of learning which plants are cold<br />
hardy enough to use in any landscape is identifying<br />
established, healthy plants in older gardens in the surrounding<br />
area.<br />
Wind<br />
The flow of winds and accompanying sand is one of the<br />
most trying experiences for gardeners in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>. Plants can help curtail the bite of wind and sand<br />
in the form of dense windbreaks (see pages 11 to 12).<br />
They must be tall enough to reduce the wind’s force.<br />
Wind patterns coming through San Gorgonio Pass<br />
fluctuate with westerly storms and coastal fogs. They<br />
are most prevalent during late winter and spring months.<br />
Dust and sand begin to move when the wind reaches 15<br />
miles per hour (mph) or more. Mild dust storms may<br />
develop at 20 mph. Severe sand storms, which can create<br />
havoc with windshields, paint, people and plants,<br />
usually develop at 30 mph or more.<br />
Local winds contrary to the westerly flow often are<br />
stirred by the development of low-pressure areas in the<br />
lower desert or are brought in by tropical chubascos,<br />
storms originating off the west coast of Mexico or<br />
southwest of San Diego.<br />
If winds are common in your area, locate plants in<br />
the garden with the wind factor in mind. In general,<br />
windbreaks should be sited perpendicular to prevailing<br />
winds. Fortunately, the flow of sand decreases with<br />
each new development, which helps anchor sand dunes.<br />
Walls, fences, hedges, lawns, gravel and ground covers<br />
also reduce the problem.<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> Soils<br />
Experienced dry-climate gardeners realize the impor-<br />
Cold-tender plants such as citrus are more likely to<br />
escape frost damage in landscapes located at the valleyÕs<br />
highest elevations, or on slopes, which allows<br />
cold air to drain down and away from plantings.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u
tance of managing soil, water and plants successfully.<br />
Fortunately, valley soils can easily be made more productive.<br />
In upland and eroded areas of the valley, soils<br />
are shallow and require more work to become acceptable<br />
for plant growth.<br />
Caliche, also called hardpan, is a cementlike layer<br />
of calcium carbonate that accumulates below the soil<br />
surface. It can be a few inches thick to several feet thick,<br />
and is often encountered on slopes or flat areas. If a<br />
gardener's shovel bounces back when it strikes the soil,<br />
test for caliche. Pour vinegar or acid onto the area. If it<br />
bubbles, it’s caliche.<br />
Soils in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> fall into definite categories.<br />
Areas west of Palm Canyon Drive and south of<br />
Highway 111 in Palm Desert are sandy to rocky due to<br />
the area’s alluvial structure. In some coves, wind-blown<br />
sand covers much of the ground. East of Palm Canyon<br />
Drive and north of Highway 111, most soils are predominantly<br />
sandy. In all instances, drainage of moisture<br />
is usually adequate.<br />
Slow-draining soils can be found in La Quinta and<br />
points south. Here, gardeners must break through layers<br />
of silt or clay before water can drain. Silty sand builds up<br />
a crust that practically seals itself when water is applied.<br />
Commercially available soil penetrants made of sulfur<br />
compounds can be effective in combating this problem.<br />
Digging extra-wide planting holes and setting plants a<br />
bit higher when planting allows moisture to drain away<br />
from the plant’s crown. These methods are necessary in<br />
La Quinta and some lower elevation regions.<br />
Organic Materials: Mulches and Additives<br />
The addition of organic materials such as ground bark,<br />
composted manures and planter mixes aid desert soils.<br />
Mixed thoroughly into the soil, these materials retain<br />
moisture aerate clay soils and provide roots with a better<br />
growing environment.<br />
Mulching and additives can: prevent soil crusting,<br />
curtail weed growth, reduce need for cultivation, reduce<br />
water use and lower soil temperatures. Materials gener-<br />
In many parts of the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, soils are almost pure sand. These conditions require that plants be given<br />
frequent irrigations due to the rapid drainage.<br />
u The Desert Gardening Difference
ally available include packaged composted ground bark,<br />
cotton seed hulls and composted sawdust. In extremely<br />
windy areas, adding a layer of gravel helps to hold the<br />
mulch in place.<br />
Working soil additives into planting beds makes sand<br />
and loam soils better at retaining water. Soil around<br />
new plants should be blended well with existing soil.<br />
Be aware that you must add enough material to substantially<br />
change the soil’s composition. The small chart on<br />
page 15 will give you a guide as to how much a 2-cubic<br />
foot bag of soil amendment will cover. Prepare soil a<br />
few weeks before planting to allow additives to better<br />
incorporate into existing soils.<br />
The pH of desert soils is often alkaline, caused by<br />
an accumulation of sodium and calcium. Due to low<br />
rainfall, these two elements don't adequately leach, or<br />
wash away, if soils are heavy. Fertilizer such as ammonium<br />
sulfate or soil sulfur, worked thoroughly into the<br />
soil, helps lower the pH, typically to 7.2. Deep watering<br />
in soil that has good drainage also helps alleviate the<br />
problem.<br />
Salinity, or salts, can be a problem in heavy soils if<br />
there is not enough rainfall to move salts down and<br />
away from plant roots. Farmers flood fields to leach<br />
salts into underground drains. Adding iron sulfate or<br />
soil sulfur to planting areas can help the residential gardener<br />
combat salt buildup.<br />
Many desert areas on alluvial slopes, areas of young,<br />
rocky soils at the base of mountains, have deep strata<br />
of decomposed granite, commonly referred to “D.G.”<br />
These soils have been created by extreme water action<br />
of storms and the resulting runoff. Drainage is rapid.<br />
Plant roots grow well in such soils if given adequate<br />
moisture. However, when dry, alluvial soil is difficult to<br />
work. Mixing in soil additives and adding water to soil<br />
before digging and planting can help.<br />
Left: Mixed thoroughly into the soil, organic materials<br />
retain moisture and provide roots with a better growing<br />
environment. Plants growing in close proximity to one<br />
another such as vegetables, annuals and garden perennials<br />
benefit from amendments. Many soil amendment<br />
products are available at garden centers or nurseries, or<br />
you can make your own compost.<br />
Above: Compost is one of the best mulches and soil<br />
amendment available. In addition, a compost pile is<br />
excellent for recycling yard wasteÑgrass clippings,<br />
leaves, pruned twigsÑthat would ordinarily find its way<br />
to a landfill. This simple compost pile takes up little<br />
space and is easy to make with cinder blocks.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u
Research shows that trees and shrubs strategically located<br />
around buildings dramatically reduce cooling costs.<br />
This tree is Acacia aneura, mulga acacia.<br />
Landscaping for Climate Control<br />
When you live in a hot desert climate such as that of<br />
the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, you probably spend more money<br />
to cool your home than to heat it. And, as mentioned in<br />
the introduction, outdoor water use can be as much as<br />
80 percent of a home’s water consumption. Energy and<br />
water prices have been increasing and are likely to continue,<br />
prompting residents throughout the Southwest to<br />
find ways to conserve them both. There are some simple<br />
ways to conserve energy by using water-efficient plants<br />
in combination with appropriate landscape and irrigation<br />
system design.<br />
How Plants Modify Climate<br />
You’ll quickly feel the drop in temperature on a hot day<br />
when you walk beneath the shade of a dense tree. Trees,<br />
shrubs and ground covers can greatly reduce cooling<br />
loads of buildings in hot, arid climates by modifying air<br />
temperatures and solar heat gain.<br />
You can design or retrofit a landscape to keep cooling<br />
costs reasonable. Locating trees, shrubs and vines so<br />
they will shade homes can effectively lower the energy<br />
required to cool a home.<br />
Shading air-conditioning units can reduce their workload,<br />
making them more energy-efficient.<br />
Plants also cool air around homes through the process<br />
of evapotranspiration. The evaporation of moisture at<br />
the leaf surface cools the air around the leaf. Research<br />
has shown that trees and shrubs placed in key locations<br />
around a home can reduce cooling requirements up to<br />
24 percent. A mature, wide-canopy, shade tree placed to<br />
shade the south and west walls and roof of a home can<br />
cut cooling costs up to 42 percent.<br />
It is necessary to know where the sun is in the sky<br />
when temperatures are at their hottest. The goal is to<br />
position plants so they will block the sun’s rays. The<br />
path of the sun during summer is much higher than it is<br />
during winter. This means that summer sunshine tends<br />
to warm the east and west walls, as well as the roof.<br />
Winter sunlight strikes mostly south-facing walls.<br />
Trees—Trees provide direct shade for outdoor spaces,<br />
walls, windows and the roof area of a home. The<br />
choice of tree types for summer shade could be either<br />
evergreen, where trees remain in leaf all year, or plants<br />
that are deciduous, when leaves drop and branches<br />
are bare in winter. In colder areas, it’s a benefit to use<br />
deciduous trees. The bare branches during winter allow<br />
warming sunlight to reach walls and windows.<br />
Keep in mind that many trees take five years or more<br />
10 u The Desert Gardening Difference
Oleander is a common windbreak in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>, but a recent viral infection has caused many<br />
stands to decline and die. See page 12 for a list of other<br />
suitable windbreak plants.<br />
to provide any measurable shade. Some deciduous trees<br />
provide a shade canopy cover twice as fast as some<br />
evergreens. (Note: The relative growth rate of many<br />
trees are provided in the descriptions on pages 44 to<br />
67.)<br />
Ground Covers—Ground covers decrease heat around<br />
a structure and on walls and windows, thereby reducing<br />
cooling costs. In place of a sea of gravel, a landscape<br />
composed of ground covers, a small lawn and shrubs<br />
will greatly reduce heat gain around a home. The benefits<br />
of this cooling outweigh the additional cost of<br />
water to establish and maintain the plants.<br />
Windbreaks and Hedges Help Control Climate<br />
Windbreaks have long been a part of the history of the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. In the past several decades, thousands<br />
of acres of orchards, date groves, vineyards, vegetable<br />
crops and small villages were developed from the<br />
Salton Sea to Palm Springs. Windbreaks of many kinds<br />
were planted to reduce the impact of wind and blowing<br />
sand. For example, without the blow-sand control<br />
offered by the rows of tamarisk windbreaks planted by<br />
Southern Pacific, railroad tracks would be quickly covered<br />
by sand dunes.<br />
Development in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> continues to<br />
claim large acreages of sand dunes up to and across<br />
Interstate 10. The need for controlling blowing sand<br />
and dust becomes even more important as government<br />
laws for clean air controls are implemented to reduce<br />
the impact of blowing sand and dust.<br />
Windbreaks also help control the burning and desiccating<br />
effects of the intense summer sun by creating<br />
cooler, sheltered small climates called microclimates.<br />
The single, double- or triple-hedge creates a more<br />
gentle climate around a home that allows more fragile<br />
plants to grow and thrive.<br />
Windbreak Basics<br />
Consider the intensity of the afternoon sun, heat and<br />
direction of wind when you locate trees and hedges for<br />
windbreaks, hedges and screens. One clue is to notice<br />
how plants are shaped (leaning) due to prevailing wind<br />
patterns.<br />
Divert wind with height and density. Tall trees—to 40<br />
feet or more high—can reduce wind velocity as much as<br />
50 to 200 yards downwind. Study existing windbreaks<br />
in the region that are effective in helping control and<br />
divert wind. How are they placed, and which plants are<br />
being grown What is the spacing between plants<br />
Multiple-trunk trees generally maintain better verti-<br />
The photos above are the same windbreak near Indio, taken 7-1/2 years apart. Screening was used the first years<br />
after planting to protect citrus until trees attained sufficient size.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 11
It helps to understand how exposureÑnorth, south, east or westÑinfluences plant growth. South and west exposures<br />
are much warmer, plus reflected sun in these exposures can quickly damage unadapted plants. The ocotillo and<br />
bougainvillea shown in this home landscape will accept the intense heat of a western exposure.<br />
cal growth under the stress of wind. Even with dense<br />
foliage, pines and cypress withstand heavy or constant<br />
winds with a rugged persistence.<br />
All windbreak trees must have deep irrigation to survive.<br />
Drip irrigation has proven to be ideal in helping<br />
trees develop deep roots.<br />
A triangulated pattern with 12- to 18-foot spacing of<br />
Trees and Shrubs for Windbreaks<br />
Acacia aneura, Mulga Acacia<br />
Brachychiton populneus, Bottle Tree<br />
Ceratonia siliqua, Carob<br />
Cupressus arizonica, Arizona Cypress<br />
Cupressus glabra 'Gareei', Rough Bark Cypress<br />
Eucalyptus microtheca, Coolibah Tree<br />
Eucalyptus spathulata, Swamp Malee<br />
Pinus eldarica, Afghan Pine<br />
Pinus pinea, Italian Stone Pine<br />
Rhus lancea, African Sumac<br />
trees, with lower ground level 10- to 12-foot shrubs and<br />
conifers with great density, can create a strong barrier<br />
against wind.<br />
Grouping Plants by Sun and <strong>Water</strong> Need<br />
Plants that are efficient users of water employ many tricks<br />
to stay alive. Some go dormant in the summer. Others<br />
have modified leaves that conserve available moisture.<br />
Leaves may have a small surface area; be it thick, waxy<br />
or leathery; or fuzzy or hairy. Other plants have green<br />
trunks and branches that carry out photosynthesis. Still<br />
others have well developed, deep root systems designed<br />
to absorb available moisture. Some have seasonal adaptations.<br />
For example, deciduous plants may require more<br />
water in summer, but survive on much less water in<br />
winter.<br />
Often, a plant’s water needs change as they begin to<br />
mature. Many fast-growing young plants require a lot of<br />
water the first few years, but as growth slows with age<br />
and a deep root system develops, they may require only<br />
12 u The Desert Gardening Difference
Microclimates, the small climates around your home,<br />
can be used to your advantage. This protected spot is<br />
an ideal location for cold-tender plants.<br />
occasional deep watering.<br />
It is important to keep in mind that not all native plants<br />
use less water than plants introduced from another region.<br />
Some plants native to riparian (streamside) areas, such as<br />
cottonwoods, are high water users with aggressive roots.<br />
Matching the Plant with the Exposure,<br />
The Exposure with the Plant<br />
Plants are born with inherent tolerances to light and<br />
heat. When you have a location at your home in mind<br />
as to where you want to place plants, understand the<br />
exposure—north, south, east or west—and select a plant<br />
that accepts the growing conditions there. This method<br />
usually works better than buying a plant you like and<br />
trying to find a proper exposure to match. Here are the<br />
common exposures, and what plants will have to tolerate<br />
to survive:<br />
South and West—The west exposure with its intense<br />
afternoon sun is by far the most difficult growing location.<br />
During the summer months the searing heat can overcome<br />
many plants. A south location has the benefit of being<br />
warm in winter, receiving sunshine during all seasons.<br />
Only sun- and heat-loving plants will thrive when planted<br />
in a south or west exposure.<br />
East—The east side of a building or wall is probably the<br />
ideal exposure for most sun-loving plants. Some plants<br />
Shade cast by trees or buildings create cooler, more<br />
protected planting sites. Eastern exposures are wellsuited<br />
for plants that wilt in full sun.<br />
may be heat-tolerant, yet are easily burned by direct, hot<br />
afternoon sun. Such plants will thrive along the east side<br />
of a structure, where forgiving shade is cast during the<br />
afternoon. Plants that tolerate some shade also belong in<br />
this exposure.<br />
North—The north side must be used for shade-loving<br />
plants, but during midsummer months, it, too, receives<br />
some sun. Certain plants in this north exposure may need<br />
protection from the afternoon or morning sun during<br />
this period. Plants with limited heat tolerance belong on<br />
the north side of structures or trees. When working with<br />
this group, be aware of any reflected heat from adjacent<br />
sidewalks, driveways, streets, masonry walls or water<br />
features.<br />
Expand planting areas for the most sensitive plants by<br />
taking advantage of shade from trees and structures. The<br />
filtered shade of a canopy-forming tree such as many<br />
acacias, mesquite or palo verdes becomes an ideal place<br />
for plants prone to sunburn. This is especially true if they<br />
are in containers, which eliminates the problem of roots<br />
competing for water. Extremely sensitive, cold-tender<br />
plants should be potted so they can be moved to appropriate<br />
protection as seasons change. These plants must be<br />
located carefully, considering the variables of their exposure,<br />
spacing, cold tolerances and water requirements.<br />
Not all are thirsty!<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 13
Hydrozoning: Grouping Plants by <strong>Water</strong> Use<br />
Grouping plants according to their moisture needs is<br />
called hydrozoning. This helps in the design and application<br />
of drip-irrigation systems, which are just as valid<br />
for low-water-use natives and other dry climate plants<br />
as for subtropicals requiring high water applications.<br />
Plants with the highest water use should be closest to<br />
the area where you spend the most time outdoors, such<br />
as planting areas near patios and at home entrances.<br />
This high-water zone is the prime location for annuals<br />
and luxuriant, water-thirsty subtropicals and other highwater-use<br />
plants. Some people also call this a minioasis,<br />
creating a cooling, colorful oasis of plants.<br />
Vigorous, unfussy shrubs and trees, such as the sennas,<br />
Texas rangers and mesquites, are planted in the<br />
moderate-water zone.<br />
In dry climates, the low-water zone is usually farthest<br />
from the house and water supply. Plants are not usually<br />
viewed close up. For this reason they can have coarser<br />
textures, and do not have to be maintained at optimum<br />
water applications.<br />
Selecting and Buying Plants<br />
When buying plants, keep in mind that extremely large<br />
plants such as boxed trees take much longer to become<br />
established than a plant set out from a 5-gallon or 15-gallon<br />
container. Unless extremely slow-growing by nature,<br />
a smaller plant usually establishes itself faster than a<br />
larger one, and may even outgrow it. A smaller plant has<br />
the added advantage of reduced cost, and usually reacts<br />
more favorably to transplanting than a larger plant of the<br />
same species.<br />
Mail-order plants—These are often shipped from suppliers<br />
in the Midwest or East, and generally arrive too<br />
late in the growing season for <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> gardens.<br />
Order only if the shipper will guarantee delivery for planting<br />
in January or February.<br />
Bare-root plants—Roses, grapes, and selected fruit and<br />
shade trees are generally available “bare root” in nurseries<br />
from December through February. They are graded<br />
by trunk diameter and height. Medium-sized plants are<br />
preferred for planting.<br />
Flats, pots, packs and quarts—Nurseries usually supply<br />
annuals, perennials and ground covers in these types<br />
of containers. Avoid plants that seem overgrown for their<br />
container, that are heavy with mature flowers, or are too<br />
succulent. Select plants with fresh growth and are adorned<br />
with buds ready to bloom.<br />
Gallon, 5-gallon, 7-gallon and 15-gallon containers—Pass<br />
on plants that have heavy pruning cuts, or are<br />
oversized or root bound. If containers are filled with roots,<br />
When shopping for plants, keep in mind that smaller plants generally establish faster and transplant easier than<br />
larger plants of the same species. Look for uniform, healthy growth, and avoid plants that are root bound.<br />
14 u The Desert Gardening Difference
How Many Plants do you Need<br />
100 plants . . .<br />
Spaced 4 inches apart will cover 11 square feet.<br />
Spaced 6 inches apart will cover 25 square feet.<br />
Spaced 8 inches apart will cover 44 square feet.<br />
Spaced 10 inches apart will cover 70 square feet.<br />
Spaced 12 inches apart will cover 100 square feet.<br />
Spaced 15 inches apart will cover 156 square feet.<br />
Spaced 18 inches apart will cover 225 square feet.<br />
How Much Soil Amendment do you Need<br />
2-cubic foot bags . . .<br />
1 bag covers 175 square feet 1/6 inch deep.<br />
1 bag covers 54 square feet 1/2 inch deep.<br />
1 bag covers 27 square feet 1 inch deep.<br />
plants are probably stunted and seldom develop normal<br />
growth. (Trees often become overgrown in containers.)<br />
Also avoid plants with sunburned trunks, cracked trunks,<br />
severely trimmed branches or binding tree ties. The best<br />
and healthiest specimens will have fresh, new, vigorous<br />
growth.<br />
24- to 60-inch boxed trees—These are often fieldgrown,<br />
then transplanted into boxes to establish and<br />
regrow.<br />
When shopping for plants, consider the following<br />
important aspects of knowing and understanding plant<br />
performance. Get to know:<br />
o Size and width at 5 years, 10 years, maturity<br />
o Rate of growth: slow, moderate, rapid<br />
o Flowering habit, bloom period<br />
o Foliage type: coarse, medium, fine<br />
o <strong>Water</strong> requirement: low, moderate, high<br />
o Nutrient needs: native plants require minimum<br />
o Preferred soil type and soil drainage requirement<br />
o Exposure: reflected sun, sun, filtered shade, shade<br />
o Hardiness to cold, heat, wind<br />
o Relationship to other plants: “plant partnerships”<br />
o Ideal planting season<br />
Pruning by the Seasons<br />
When you prune, you are directing plant growth. It is<br />
important to keep some key rules in mind that will help in<br />
maintaining or modifying the plant’s structure.<br />
Through all seasons in <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, plants have a<br />
greater vitality when given reasonable care and supplied<br />
with adequate moisture. Pruning, shaping, thinning and<br />
dead-heading flowers become important regular aspects<br />
of plant maintenance—more important than many gardeners<br />
realize.<br />
There is a lack of understanding by many people<br />
concerning how to maintain water-efficient plants in dry<br />
climate regions. Proper pruning, thinning and trimming<br />
promotes healthy, attractive growth, maintains a natural<br />
form and reduces garden work, as well as debris.<br />
Some Pruning Basics<br />
Good pruning and shaping techniques begin with plant<br />
selection. The gardener must consider rate of growth<br />
and mature size; plant form and texture; location related<br />
to sun, shade and soil type; flowering habit and spacing<br />
for width, height and proximity to structures, walks and<br />
pedestrian traffic areas.<br />
Poor pruning practices are often perpetuated by a lack<br />
of knowledge about plant growing habits and flowering<br />
periods. Contributing to the problem is the over-planting<br />
of many new gardens, done to achieve an immediate<br />
mature effect.<br />
Follow these guidelines to help gain an understanding<br />
of this most misunderstood gardening practice.<br />
o Cold-hardy plants can generally be pruned in late fall<br />
to early winter. Subtropical and tropical plants respond<br />
better when pruned in late spring and early summer.<br />
Prune carefully to direct growth and to control wayward<br />
branches. Gloves help this gardener protect his hands<br />
from the sharp thorns of bougainvillea.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 15
Planting Step by Step<br />
1. Plant as soon as possible after purchasing to prevent<br />
drying out of the rootball. Best idea is to dig<br />
planting holes before buying plants. Prior to planting,<br />
water the container well to ensure the rootball soil is<br />
moist. Remove the plant from the container. If plastic,<br />
turn upside down and knock the edge against a hard<br />
surface to gently slip the rootball out. Handle plant<br />
carefully by its rootballÑnot by the stemÑthis helps<br />
avoid injuring the roots.<br />
2. Dig holes for plants so they are at least three times<br />
wider than the rootball. It helps root growth if the<br />
ground is loosened beyond a plantÕs drip line, the<br />
area near the perimeter where rainfall will naturally<br />
drip off the plant to the ground. Fill hole with water to<br />
moisten the surrounding soil before planting. If water<br />
does not drain in an hour or two, dig deeper for more<br />
adequate drainage or select another planting site.<br />
3. Place rootball in planting hole and add soil mixture,<br />
firming it around the rootball. <strong>Water</strong> plant and<br />
add soil mixture around the sides to eliminate air<br />
pockets. After soil settles, add more soil so that it<br />
reaches the top of rootball.<br />
4. Use soil to build a basin around the perimeter of<br />
the rootball. It should extend to about three times the<br />
size of the rootball. Make the height of the basin so it<br />
will hold at least 3 inches of water. If planting a tree<br />
that needs support to stand on its own, supply two<br />
stakes, and tie them loosely to tree as shown above.<br />
16 u The Desert Gardening Difference
o Remove broken, diseased or dead wood from trees<br />
and shrubs at any time.<br />
o Remove crowded stems and weak growth to help<br />
plants develop balanced structure and form.<br />
o Naturalistic pruning—light, selective removal of<br />
branches and limbs, allows plants the opportunity to<br />
grow as nature intended. Hedge-sheared plants are<br />
robbed of their individuality, flowers and natural beauty.<br />
o Cut stem stubs close to a main stem to aid healing.<br />
o Nip tips of new growth to increase bushiness.<br />
o Fast-growing trees such as the many acacias, elm,<br />
eucalyptus, mesquite, palo verde, and bottle brush need<br />
thinning to reduce chances of wind damage.<br />
o Remove sucker growth on trees to prevent branch<br />
growth in the wrong locations. Pull, rather than cut, for<br />
best results.<br />
o Pruning citrus trees requires a special approach. For<br />
detailed information, see page 149.<br />
o Pruning tools work much better when you keep them<br />
sharp. Also be sure to use the right size pruning tool for<br />
the job.<br />
o Better plant shape and regrowth develops when plants<br />
are pruned gradually over a period of time in contrast to<br />
once-a-year heavy pruning. As a rule, remove no more<br />
than 20 percent of the plant’s foliage at any one time to<br />
avoid stress and sunburn of trunk and branches.<br />
It is seldom too late to correct past pruning errors.<br />
Plants have a great ability to recover from poor pruning.<br />
You can improve their appearance with time and<br />
adequate care.<br />
Topping Trees<br />
Tree topping, also called heading, refers to the removal<br />
of major portions of the tree’s crown by cutting branches<br />
to stubs or to the main trunk. This type of negative<br />
pruning is most conspicuous on eucalyptus and mulberry<br />
trees.<br />
This mutilation results in clusters of stems emerging<br />
below the stub cuts, creating excessive, small, weak<br />
branches that later become vulnerable to breakage. The<br />
new growth can increase wind resistance, as the mass<br />
of branches become a “sail” in the wind, often causing<br />
extensive damage or loss of the tree. On a small scale,<br />
topping creates openings for invasion of rotting organisms.<br />
Stubbing branches also upsets the entire growth<br />
pattern of the tree. Over a period of time, the tree will<br />
generally decline in beauty and effectiveness, with a<br />
decrease in monetary value by 20 to 50 percent.<br />
The Irrigation and Pruning Connection<br />
The relationship of irrigation and pruning is a close one.<br />
The amount of water applied directly affects the amount<br />
of pruning needed. Overwater, and growth can be too<br />
lush and succulent. Underwater, and plants become<br />
You can improve the appearance of many ground covers by cutting<br />
them back every few years, preventing dead stems from mounding.<br />
Baccharis at left was cut back, shows fresh new growth.<br />
Avoid topping trees. It ruins the treeÕs<br />
form, shortens its life and may cause it to<br />
become a hazard.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 17
stressed, reducing healthy growth and inviting attacks<br />
from pests and diseases.<br />
Proper irrigation is one of the most important elements<br />
of growing healthy trees. Deep watering with<br />
drip irrigation that places moisture deep in the root<br />
zone is recommended. It can be provided by an irrigation<br />
schedule that takes into account the size of a tree<br />
and its root system. Trees in turf areas without drips or<br />
bubblers often have problems related to surface roots,<br />
and lack deep roots to help stability and resistance to<br />
heavy winds.<br />
Fertilizing<br />
In many parts of the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, sandy soils<br />
and rock-and-sand soil combinations are common.<br />
They have excellent drainage qualities, but tremendous<br />
amounts of water must be applied frequently to keep<br />
plants alive when temperatures are high. Rapid soil<br />
drainage and frequent irrigation leaches (washes) plant<br />
nutrients, particularly nitrogen, away from plant roots.<br />
This results in a need to replenish these nutrients more<br />
often.<br />
Because of the rapid leaching of nutrients from the<br />
root zone, you get better results by applying fertilizers<br />
more often and in smaller doses. Adding soil amendments<br />
in the form of organic materials is also useful to<br />
counter nutrient loss from leaching. Ground bark and<br />
compost are examples of materials to add to the soil to<br />
help retain valuable moisture and nutrients.<br />
The availability of fertilizers packaged for specific<br />
plant types and uses reduces the need to do your own<br />
mixing of nutrients. Commercially available citrus<br />
food, rose food, palm food and lawn fertilizer make<br />
fertilization programs simple. In all instances, closely<br />
follow all product label instructions.<br />
After many years of testing in commercial projects<br />
and in nursery growing operations, slow-release fertilizers<br />
have become useful products for the home gardener.<br />
They can be added safely to the soil mix at planting<br />
time in close proximity to plants’ roots. They provide<br />
proper nutrients over many months, reducing time and<br />
expense while improving plant growth.<br />
Fertilizing According to Plant Type<br />
New plantings of shrubs and trees will accept a wellbalanced<br />
application of organic plant food by the second<br />
or third month after planting. Azaleas, camellias<br />
and gardenias generally need acid-type nutrients when<br />
plants complete their bloom cycle. Continue applications<br />
monthly through summer. Citrus trees maintain a<br />
good growth pattern when fertilizers are applied regularly<br />
from February to the first part of September. Roses<br />
need a steady diet from early spring into late fall, based<br />
on their bloom cycle. It is helpful to remember that<br />
when roses complete a bloom period, it’s time to apply<br />
a balanced rose food.<br />
Lawns respond with vigorous growth when given high<br />
nitrogen fertilizers. For Bermudagrass lawns, provide a<br />
monthly application through the warm months. For<br />
ryegrass, fertilize through the cool months. Fertilizing<br />
properly helps keep a lawn healthy, and helps prevent<br />
weeds from becoming established.<br />
Deep-rooted trees often require deep applications of<br />
nutrients. This can be achieved by placing three or four<br />
slow-release tablets into 12- to 18-inch-deep holes dug<br />
into the soil around the dripline. Deep watering is also<br />
essential.<br />
Annuals, perennials, and ground covers often have<br />
shallow roots, so pelletized types of fertilizer are safest<br />
to apply. Neglecting fertilizer applications can cause<br />
slow growth to the point where plants become stunted.<br />
Liquid organic fertilizers are easy to use. The reaction<br />
period is fast and safe, and they can be applied more<br />
often. Dichondra lawns, ground cover plantings, and<br />
newly planted annuals and perennials respond readily<br />
and favorably to liquid fertilizers. As with all fertilizer<br />
products, read and follow product labels carefully.<br />
As mentioned, continuous leaching can cause problems<br />
in availability of nutrients in the soil. Plants show<br />
a need by a yellowing of leaves, called chlorosis. It can<br />
be caused by the lack of available iron or other elements<br />
in the soil. In such cases it can easily be identified: Leaf<br />
veins remain green while the rest of the leaf turns yellow.<br />
Apply iron chelates as soon as it is noticed.<br />
Fertilizers continue to be improved by manufacturers.<br />
They are becoming more specialized for various kinds<br />
of plants. Seek advice from your nursery on the current<br />
fertilizers that may be best suited for the plants you are<br />
growing.<br />
Mulching to Save <strong>Water</strong> (and More)<br />
Covering the soil with a layer of organic material prevents<br />
soil from crusting, which reduces the need to cultivate.<br />
Mulching also improves soil structure and lowers<br />
soil temperatures.<br />
A layer of mulch should be about 3 inches thick. In<br />
large open areas, mulches can help reduce weed populations<br />
and add a decorative covering.<br />
Mulches cool the upper layers of soil. The sun can<br />
bake the top inches of soil, damaging fragile roots that<br />
grow near the surface. Soil temperatures in mulched<br />
areas can be 8 to 10 degrees cooler compared to soils<br />
without mulch.<br />
Mulches maintain uniformity of soil moisture more<br />
18 u The Desert Gardening Difference
contact with stems and trunks of plants, or fungus and<br />
disease problems may occur.<br />
Controlling Insect Pests<br />
In many cases you can identify insect culprits by the<br />
damage they inflict on leaves and other plant parts.<br />
Fortunately, the number of pests in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
are seasonal and the majority of native shrubs, trees<br />
and ground covers are bothered by few, if any, insect<br />
invaders.<br />
A simple layer of mulch over the root area of plants<br />
helps in many ways. It conserves moisture by reducing<br />
evaporation, insulates the upper layer of soil, and cuts<br />
down on weed growth. Over time, an organic mulch<br />
will decompose, helping improve the soil.<br />
readily. In areas where a silty layer of soil affects the<br />
flow of water into lower layers of soil, a mulch reduces<br />
the air-tight silt layering, allowing moisture to penetrate<br />
to lower layers.<br />
Materials that are generally available as mulches<br />
include organic matter such as ground bark, composted<br />
redwood sawdust and compost. Gravel or rock are<br />
coverings and do not improve soil structure. Bark chips<br />
and bark chunks can be used, but when kept moist, they<br />
turn an unattractive gray color in just one season. Strong<br />
winds, common in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, can also blow<br />
them away from plantings. Animal manures are not<br />
satisfactory as a mulch due to problems with salt accumulation.<br />
They should also be well-composted before<br />
applying around plants.<br />
As mulches decompose and combine with the soil,<br />
it is necessary to replenish them. Mulches that tend to<br />
remain soggy should not be allowed to come in constant<br />
Sucking Types of Pests<br />
Aphids leave their mark with curled leaves, distorted<br />
new growth and damaged flower buds. Their first arrival<br />
coincides with the burst of new growth in the spring, their<br />
most vigorous period of activity. Aphids come in many colors—black,<br />
green and yellow—and can literally cover lush<br />
tips of new leaves and stems.<br />
Because injury is caused by their sucking of vital juices,<br />
you can control them with sprays. Sprays can be systemic,<br />
which means that they are absorbed by the plant and kill the<br />
pests when they tap into the sap of the plant. Other sprays<br />
kill insects by contact.<br />
To avoid killing natural predators such as ladybird beetles<br />
(ladybugs) with an insecticide meant for aphids, you can<br />
wash off the pests with a blast of water from a garden hose.<br />
Spray as soon as you see evidence of their activity and<br />
repeat twice weekly while pests are active<br />
Aphids prefer roses, some annuals, new growth on<br />
pyracanthas, oleander and even citrus. Vigorous-growing<br />
plants such as oleanders usually have no problem outgrowing<br />
their damage.<br />
Spider mites cause leaves to be mottled, stippled and<br />
sometimes turn yellow. Most damage occurs with arrival<br />
of hot weather. Shaking suspect leaves over a clean sheet<br />
of white paper will show spider mites if they are present.<br />
They are so tiny that a magnifying glass must be used to<br />
see them in detail.<br />
Mites attack citrus, and are common pests on conifers<br />
such as Italian cypress and prostrate junipers. Follow the<br />
same controls as with aphids. If infestations are severe,<br />
treat with a miticide. However, the best defense is a good<br />
offense. Keep plants watered properly, not too much or not<br />
too little, and they will be more healthy and resistant to pest<br />
attacks.<br />
Chewing Types of Pests<br />
Thrips are practically invisible, but leave behind their<br />
marks on the surface of leaves and fruit, causing them to<br />
form streaky, distorted scar tissue. Their most active period<br />
begins during the warming trend in early summer and again<br />
in early fall. Controls are the same as with aphids and spider<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 19
Be on the lookout for aphids in early spring. They love<br />
to attack tender new growth.<br />
Ladybird beetles (ladybugs) are beneficial insects, preying<br />
on insect pests such as aphids (left).<br />
mites.<br />
Beetles, caterpillars and grasshoppers leave behind ragged<br />
chewed-out spots on leaves and flower buds. Some critters<br />
even roll up leaves; others cut off stems of succulent annuals<br />
below the soil line.<br />
Many systemic controls are available. Other controls are<br />
sprayed on leaves and stems to kill on contact.<br />
Lawn moths and their caterpillars are only evident when<br />
you see the moths flying around at dusk over the grass,<br />
preparing to lay eggs. The caterpillars that hatch from these<br />
eggs do the actual damage. Apply controls to the grass. In<br />
severe or questionable situations, contact a local nursery for<br />
the most current controls available. Improvements of sprays<br />
and dusts are being made continually.<br />
Caution: The incorrect use of pest control chemicals<br />
can be extremely dangerous and hazardous to plants, pets<br />
and people. Read all product labels and follow instructions<br />
carefully.<br />
Preventing and Controlling Diseases<br />
A preventive control program is probably the best method<br />
to reduce fungi or other plant diseases on susceptible plants.<br />
Major plant diseases in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> often involve<br />
citrus, oleander, roses and annuals such as petunias, vincas,<br />
and zinnias.<br />
Poor soil drainage—made worse when excessive soil is<br />
piled high on the crown at the base of a tree—as well as<br />
sunburn damage to stems, can bring on gummosis disease<br />
on citrus. Indications of this disease are the formation of<br />
lesions in the bark near the bases of stems. Discolored sap<br />
may flow from the infected area. For controls, see Citrus,<br />
page 150.<br />
Overhead watering of roses in the evening hours during<br />
periods of high humidity can bring on mildew. You’ll see<br />
it as a gray, powdery covering on new foliage and buds.<br />
Apply sprays or powders to treat at first sight. Avoid by<br />
watering at ground level and during early morning. Zinnias<br />
and grapes are also susceptible to mildew. It may be helpful<br />
to grow plants or varieties that are less susceptible. Contact<br />
your nursery or cooperative extension office for recommendations.<br />
Oleander leaf scorch deserves special mention. It’s a<br />
bacterial disease believed to be spread by the glass- winged<br />
sharpshooter, a native leafhopper insect. Symptoms are<br />
brown leaf tips, with dieback first spreading to branches,<br />
then to the entire plant. The bacteria shuts down the<br />
20 u The Desert Gardening Difference
plant’s water-conducting system, eventually killing the<br />
plant. Currently, plants 20 to 30 years old are most affected.<br />
In addition to oleanders, other plants may be susceptible.<br />
At this time there is no cure. Contact your local cooperative<br />
extension service for help in identifying this disease.<br />
Weed Control<br />
When you engage in a constant struggle to control weeds,<br />
you need to evaluate the costs, methods and effectiveness of<br />
using chemicals and their impact on the environment—both<br />
local and the entire world.<br />
It’s important to control weeds in gardens and landscapes<br />
to reduce aggressive competition for water, garden space<br />
and nutrients. A weed-free garden is more attractive and<br />
more healthy.<br />
Several options are available to control weeds. They<br />
include hoeing, cultivating, mulching to reduce their numbers<br />
(and make them easier to remove), pulling by hand,<br />
applying chemicals and using the solarization method,<br />
described below.<br />
Above all, try to keep weeds in check by controlling them<br />
on a regular basis. If you see them, pull them. One of the<br />
best times to engage in a weeding session is right after<br />
a decent rain. Then, when the soil is moist, weeds can be<br />
pulled fairly easily, roots and all. Don’t leave weeds on the<br />
ground where their seeds can continue the cycle. Toss them<br />
in the trash.<br />
Using the Sun for Weed Control<br />
Solarization uses the sun to kill weed seeds. It is a simple<br />
but effective weed control method that is even used by<br />
commercial vegetable growers in the Southwest. A similar<br />
process applies to the home garden as well.<br />
The process begins after the weather heats up—late<br />
spring to early fall. Soak the area to be treated so moisture<br />
reaches 6 to 12 inches deep. Cultivate soil 4 to 6 inches<br />
deep. Lay clear plastic over the area. Shovel soil over edges<br />
of the plastic covering to seal in heat and to hold the plastic<br />
in place. Allow seeds time to germinate, which will take 2 to<br />
4 weeks. The build up of heat under the plastic quickly kills<br />
weed seedlings. After seedlings have been killed, remove<br />
the plastic and dead growth. Work the soil well before planting<br />
your wildflowers, vegetables, annuals and perennials.<br />
For weed control methods that require chemicals, seek<br />
advice at your nursery for recommendations on products and<br />
application methods. Grassy weeds such as Bermudagrass,<br />
nutgrass or Delhigrass require a material that is absorbed<br />
into the root zone. Broadleaf weeds such as Russian thistle,<br />
spurge and others have spray materials formulated specifically<br />
for their control. In all cases, apply chemical applications<br />
carefully on windless days to prevent harming humans<br />
and pets. Follow all directions on the product label.<br />
Month-by-Month Gardening Calendar<br />
for the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
January<br />
January is usually our coldest month, with pleasant days<br />
and cool nights. There’s even a chance for frost.<br />
Lawns overseeded with ryegrass need regular moisture<br />
and weekly mowing. If yellowing occurs, apply<br />
high nitrogen fertilizer.<br />
This is the last opportunity to plant bare-root roses,<br />
grapes and deciduous fruit trees. Prune your roses and<br />
deciduous fruit trees<br />
this month. By now,<br />
red bird of paradise<br />
have gone dormant.<br />
Cut back stems to<br />
about 18 inches above<br />
ground level.<br />
Plant cool-season<br />
vegetables and herbs.<br />
January is the ideal<br />
month to make additions<br />
or changes in the<br />
garden while temperatures<br />
are kind. It is a<br />
good month to retrofit<br />
January: protect citrus fruit. your garden. (See also<br />
December.)<br />
Now’s the time to transplant cold-hardy plants,<br />
including perennials.<br />
Check tree stakes and ties for support against strong<br />
winds common in the spring months.<br />
February<br />
Warming trends this month set the stage to fertilize<br />
citrus trees. <strong>Water</strong><br />
annuals and perennials<br />
diligently. Control<br />
winter weeds.<br />
Complete pruning<br />
of roses and deciduous<br />
fruit trees.<br />
February is an<br />
excellent time to plant<br />
shallow-rooted ground<br />
covers, native plants<br />
and other low-water<br />
use plants. Hold off<br />
planting frost-tender<br />
plants such as citrus<br />
January: prune when plants<br />
and bougainvillaea<br />
are reaching dormancy.<br />
until next month, to<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 21
avoid a possible late frost.<br />
Continue to plant winter vegetables. (See page 145.)<br />
Check plants for aphids or other pests and control as<br />
soon as you notice them.<br />
Begin deep root watering of trees in anticipation of<br />
spring growth surge.<br />
March: Add mulch to conserve soil moisture.<br />
March<br />
The warm, mild weather of March prompts rapid and<br />
excessive growth of plants as well as insect pests. Roses,<br />
citrus and hibiscus are most susceptible. For aphids, wash<br />
them off with a strong jet of water. If this does not work,<br />
check with your nursery for a safe product. When thrips<br />
attacks citrus, they cause leaves to curl and scar fruit<br />
rind. Control is difficult. Take some comfort in the fact<br />
they will be gone soon. White flies are attracted to bright<br />
yellow. Place a sheet of yellow cardboard covered with<br />
petroleum jelly near susceptible plants to capture them.<br />
To reduce fruit set, spray olive trees with a flower control<br />
spray while trees are in bud. Spray again when twothirds<br />
of blossoms are open.<br />
Fall-planted annuals reach peak bloom in March. Thin<br />
any crowded plants. Pinch back stems of snapdragons to<br />
cause new flowering stems to develop.<br />
Apply crabgrass control to lawns.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> needs increase for all plants as temperatures<br />
rise. Reset irrigation system amounts to provide more<br />
moisture. Consider purchasing a weather-based irrigation<br />
controller. It adjusts to conditions automatically.<br />
Fertilize citrus, lawns, perennials and vegetables.<br />
As flowering bulbs complete their bloom, remove old<br />
Animal pests will want their share of spring flowers.<br />
flower stems.<br />
Plant landscape plants as soon as possible this month<br />
if you missed the fall planting season to help them to<br />
become established before summer heat arrives. Most<br />
Southwest desert native trees and shrubs do better without<br />
fertilization.<br />
April<br />
This is a great garden month and a time when the color<br />
season reaches its peak. April is also the ideal planting<br />
month for tropicals that are sensitive to cold such as<br />
bougainvillaea, hibiscus, lantana, cape honeysuckle and<br />
citrus.<br />
Begin preparing soil in sunny beds to plant warm-season<br />
annuals such as marigolds, periwinkle and zinnias.<br />
If periwinkle plants wilt and die, they likely have periwinkle<br />
wilt. Remove and discard plants.<br />
Bermudagrass should be “encouraged” this month. If<br />
lawn was overseeded with winter ryegrass, cut rye low,<br />
which slows its growth, giving the dormant Bermuda the<br />
opportunity to regrow. Apply high-nitrogen fertilizer and<br />
water it in thoroughly.<br />
As temperatures increase in the latter part of April, winter<br />
annuals will begin to lose their vigor. Remove plants as<br />
they fade or begin to die out.<br />
Prune and thin sennas and Texas rangers into a natural<br />
form after flowering ceases. Your goals are to control<br />
growth, yet increase spread of plants and create additional<br />
wood for the following flowering season.<br />
If you didn’t do so in March, review irrigation schedules<br />
(both mechanical and hand watering) and increase<br />
water to accommodate the increase in temperatures.<br />
Deadhead (remove) spent flowers and fertilize roses<br />
after each bloom period for a final crop before hot<br />
weather.<br />
Control weeds and Bermudagrass in flowerbeds. Don’t<br />
put this off; regular weeding prevents disaster.<br />
22 u The Desert Gardening Difference
May<br />
May brings the first touch of summer, which begins to<br />
affect plants in many ways. The heat also slows human<br />
activity in the garden this month.<br />
Review drip irrigation systems and flush out lines to<br />
eliminate dirt and debris that could clog lines or emitters.<br />
Increase watering amounts to about twice the amount you<br />
May: Extend watering basins for summer irrigations.<br />
were watering last winter. For more specific amounts, see<br />
the chart on page 32.<br />
Apply organic mulches beneath the root areas of citrus,<br />
roses and perennials while temperatures are moderate<br />
enough to allow work in the garden.<br />
Winter and spring annuals have faded, while many<br />
perennials such as coreopsis, gaillardia and rudbeckia<br />
are developing vigorously and just beginning their color<br />
season.<br />
Clean up dead leaves and faded flower stalks on daylilies.<br />
You can remove spent yucca and aloe flower stalks<br />
once they are past bloom, but some gardeners leave them<br />
for the interest they provide when dried.<br />
Apply acid fertilizer to azaleas, camellias and gardenias.<br />
With watering schedules increasing, observe plants for<br />
chlorosis—yellowing of leaves. This probably indicates<br />
lack of iron. Acidify the soil so plants can absorb iron.<br />
If cold-tender plants were damaged by frost last winter,<br />
recovery should be well underway. Now, new growth on<br />
live stems should tell you which stems and branches are<br />
dead. Prune them to live tissue.<br />
June<br />
Summer has arrived with a vengeance. It is important to<br />
maintain a regular irrigation schedule.<br />
Prune to control rampant growth of oleanders, citrus,<br />
lantana, bougainvillaea and hibiscus. Thin excess interior<br />
growth of mesquites. Remove crossing branches of palo<br />
verde trees.<br />
Remove Bermudagrass that has invaded planting beds.<br />
Pull it by hand, or spray with a product containing glyphosate.<br />
Take action as soon as you notice it; wait too long<br />
and it can become difficult to eradicate.<br />
Roses, shrubs and<br />
young trees benefit from<br />
the addition of a 3-inchthick<br />
layer of mulch. It<br />
helps keep roots cool<br />
and slows evaporation of<br />
moisture from the soil.<br />
Palms and cacti transplant<br />
most readily in hot<br />
weather. When moved<br />
early in the warm season,<br />
plants recover with<br />
good growth, responding<br />
to heat and deep irrigations<br />
in well-drained<br />
June: water regularly, particularly<br />
plants in containers.<br />
soil.<br />
Provide shade to protect<br />
sago palms from<br />
direct sun.<br />
July<br />
With highs ranging from 105°F to 120°F, it should be<br />
no surprise that gardening practically comes to a standstill<br />
this month. Any gardening task seems to become<br />
a gigantic obstacle<br />
during a <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> summer. Early<br />
risers find ways to<br />
take care of necessary<br />
jobs despite the<br />
heat, which is often<br />
accompanied by high<br />
humidity.<br />
Weeds grow rapidly;<br />
regular control<br />
is important.<br />
Trim off spent rose<br />
blooms that keep trying<br />
to flower despite<br />
July: Check plant ties often.<br />
the heat. Provide<br />
mulches to help plants survive high temperatures.<br />
Monitor all irrigation systems closely. Failure now<br />
without early detection can be a disaster.<br />
Be sure to water trees deeply. Palms, especially, respond<br />
to slow, deep irrigation. Soaker hoses are inexpensive and<br />
easy to use. Summer heat is also a good time to plant or<br />
transplant palms and cacti.<br />
When chlorosis shows on eucalyptus and other trees,<br />
treat with soil acidifiers. Ask your nursery for advice on<br />
current products.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 23
Indoors, with air conditioning, begin planning for<br />
the fall, or plan a retrofit to make the garden more<br />
water efficient. And there’s hope: After July, it is only<br />
two months until the<br />
fall planting season,<br />
and the onset of cooler<br />
temperatures!<br />
August<br />
August is a near-repeat<br />
of July, only high<br />
temperatures seem to<br />
extend longer and higher<br />
humidity plays more<br />
of a role. Rains may or<br />
may not appear.<br />
Remove dead basal<br />
foliage of perennials.<br />
Deadhead (trim or July: Vines need support.<br />
pinch off) spent flowers<br />
of coreopsis and rudbeckia.<br />
Trim away dead flowering stems of Salvia greggii,<br />
autumn sage. This stimulates creation of new flowering<br />
stems for the fall and winter season. Likewise, lightly<br />
cut back old, tired stems of Salvia farinacea, blue salvia,<br />
to encourage new basal growth.<br />
Time to make plans for fall planting of annuals and<br />
perennials. Order seeds of adapted wildflowers for<br />
planting in September and October. If weather is not<br />
too hot, prepare fall planting beds by digging organic<br />
materials into the top 8 to 10 inches of soil.<br />
Rebuild basins on plants, especially on slopes, to hold<br />
in irrigation water. Check drip irrigation systems to see<br />
that they are operating correctly.<br />
Continue to control unwanted Bermudagrass. If<br />
overseeding your Bermudagrass lawn, hold off on fertilizing—renovation<br />
and reseeding is just two months<br />
ahead. If not overseeding, then fertilize.<br />
Green algae on the soil surface in the garden indicates<br />
August: Trim Salvia greggii for more flowers in fall.<br />
excessive moisture. Check irrigation lines and hose bibs<br />
for leaks.<br />
Hold off extensive shearing or pruning for another<br />
month. Pruning now may expose formerly shaded stems<br />
and foliage to sunburn.<br />
September<br />
The 15th of this month launches the most important<br />
planting season of the year. Planting reaches its peak<br />
by October 15, when winter and spring annuals such as<br />
petunias, snapdragons and pansies are placed in their<br />
beds. This narrow window of time allows new plants to<br />
develop roots when the soil is warm before the cooler<br />
late fall and winter air temperatures slow plant growth.<br />
Sow seeds of wildflowers, set out trees, shrubs and<br />
perennials from containers. Plant bulbs and bulb cover<br />
such as sweet alyssum.<br />
If renovating and reseeding lawn with annual or<br />
perennial ryegrass, slow down Bermudagrass growth by<br />
reducing irrigation and cease applications of fertilizer.<br />
As part of soil preparation in flower and vegetable<br />
beds, add organic mulches and slow-release fertilizers.<br />
If petunias, snapdragons and pansies have been planted<br />
continuously in the same soil for a number of years,<br />
September: ItÕs prime time to plant.<br />
apply a fungicide to prevent die-off problems with new<br />
plantings. Or plant these annuals in a new location, giving<br />
the old bed a rest.<br />
Later in the month, as the path of the sun drops lower<br />
to the south, gradually taper off irrigation. However,<br />
continue to deep-water trees and shrubs. (See Irrigation<br />
Guide, page 32.)<br />
October<br />
This is a month of sunny days, yet it’s usually comfortable<br />
to work in the garden. Plants are thriving,<br />
and planting of most everything continues through the<br />
month. However, hold off planting cold-tender tropical<br />
and subtropical plants such as citrus until spring, unless<br />
you have a microclimate at your home where plants are<br />
24 u The Desert Gardening Difference
protected from wind and cold.<br />
This is the month to turn your home landscape into<br />
a showplace. Everything is in your favor. The weather<br />
is mild and nurseries are loaded with fresh plants in<br />
containers, flats and pots. Well-rooted seedlings adjust<br />
readily to transplanting during this season. Moisten<br />
soil prior to planting. <strong>Water</strong> plants in gently after planting<br />
and continue to water regularly as they begin to<br />
become established.<br />
Avoid excessive<br />
moisture. Dig down<br />
into the soil with a<br />
trowel to a depth of 6<br />
inches to make sure<br />
moisture penetration<br />
is adequate.<br />
Continue to overseed<br />
Bermudagrass<br />
lawns until mid-<br />
October.<br />
October is the best<br />
time to sow wildflower<br />
seeds, but you<br />
can continue up until<br />
October: Sow wildflower seed mid-November. How<br />
for flowers in spring.<br />
to establish wildflowers<br />
is given on page<br />
129. <strong>Water</strong> planting beds well before sowing seeds.<br />
November<br />
Continue fall planting if you missed the October period.<br />
Plants will establish slower with cooler temperatures.<br />
Apply high-nitrogen fertilizer to ryegrass-seeded<br />
lawns to spur health and green color as days shorten and<br />
colder nights slow growth.<br />
Bring cold-tender plants in containers under shelter to<br />
protect from freezing temperatures.<br />
By November, many perennials such as rudbeckia<br />
and gaillardia that flower from summer into fall have<br />
completed their bloom cycle. Cut back to basal growth<br />
and clean up leaf debris.<br />
Chrysanthemums are in their prime. Cut flowers to<br />
use for bouquets. This also helps flowering branches<br />
from drooping excessively.<br />
During October, November and into December,<br />
Texas rangers are in bloom. This makes it a good time<br />
to select plants by flower color by visiting your nursery.<br />
More than a dozen selections are now available.<br />
Roses usually enter winter dormancy, although they<br />
may continue to bloom until severe frost. Keep soil<br />
moist. Wait to prune in late January or early February.<br />
Hold off pruning or thinning citrus until after flowering<br />
ceases in spring.<br />
December<br />
This is a great month to take advantage of the delightfully<br />
mild winter weather, and tackle those major<br />
garden projects. Here’s a list of ten things to do in the<br />
December garden:<br />
1. Install a drip irrigation system complete with<br />
weather-based irrigation controller. It will save water<br />
throughout the coming year.<br />
2. Plant perennial and bulb gardens to replace beds<br />
of annuals—saving water, money and time spent on<br />
maintenance.<br />
3. Develop a wildlife garden in a corner of the yard to<br />
attract birds, bees, butterflies and small critters.<br />
4. Grow plants in colorful pots you decorate yourself<br />
to give as holiday gifts.<br />
5. If your landscape has drainage problems, create<br />
a drainage swale, and if possible, include a retention<br />
basin. Or build a simulated creek bed with rocks and<br />
boulders to channel and disperse runoff. See page 150.<br />
6. Make a<br />
rock garden<br />
on a naturalshaped,<br />
flowing<br />
mound<br />
to serve as<br />
a landscape<br />
feature. Plant<br />
nooks and<br />
crannies with<br />
f l o w e r i n g<br />
p e r e n n i a l s ,<br />
ground covers,<br />
ornamental<br />
grasses and<br />
accent plants.<br />
7. Reduce<br />
December: Time to do the heavy work,<br />
such as installing a dry creek bed for<br />
landscape interest and drainage.<br />
the size of large lawns, especially in front yards. Give<br />
the space to water-efficient ground covers.<br />
8. Build a raised bed garden to grow a vegetable or<br />
color garden. Incorporate ample amounts of organic<br />
matter into the soil to provide your plants with optimum<br />
growing conditions.<br />
9. If you have an old garden with woody hedges and<br />
overgrown plants, consider giving it a face lift. Remove<br />
tired plants and bring new ideas into play with colorful,<br />
water-efficient, low-maintenance plants.<br />
10. If there is a large expanse of gravel or other inert<br />
ground cover surrounding your home, replace some<br />
areas with low-water-use ground covers and shrubs.<br />
Plants located at the base of structures cut down on<br />
reflected heat and light on the outside of buildings to<br />
help reduce cooling costs inside.<br />
The Desert Gardening Difference u 25
u<br />
c h a p t e r t w o<br />
u<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong><br />
Irrigation<br />
How much and how often do you need to water landscape plants in<br />
the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> This is a common question asked by many<br />
desert gardeners, particularly by newcomers. Answering this twopart<br />
question is complex: Drying winds, soils that drain fast, soils that drain<br />
slow, and the wide range of water requirements of the many plants that grow<br />
here impact how much and when to water. For example, established natives<br />
and desert-adapted plants need much less water than tropical or subtropical<br />
shrubs and trees, shallow-rooted annuals, non-native perennials, ground covers<br />
and lawns. Other factors play important roles, such as competition for<br />
water from the roots of nearby shrubs and trees, age of plants, time of year,<br />
and exposure to the sun, including reflected heat from buildings and streets.<br />
<strong>Lush</strong> tropical plants may require daily watering during the summer and<br />
twice weekly during the winter. Even low to moderate water users may need<br />
irrigation every other day during the summer, depending on the water-holding<br />
capacity of the soil.<br />
Succulent plants, including cacti, do well without regular watering.<br />
Established cactus gardens can survive with hand watering from a garden<br />
hose two to four times a year, depending on rainfall. Speaking of rainfall,<br />
some years no measurable rain falls in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>! Generally,<br />
monthly or bimonthly watering through the summer is appreciated by even<br />
the most drought-tolerant plants.<br />
The water needs of plants are also dependent on the cultivar of a species,<br />
where it was originally native to, and the genetics of the individual plant.<br />
Even with these many variables, there are good general guidelines to follow.<br />
Plants and Their Day-to-Day <strong>Water</strong> Needs<br />
Soil type has a great impact on how much and how often to water plants.<br />
And one of the toughest aspects of watering plants properly in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> is that the soils can be extremely variable, even within a single home<br />
lot. All cove and dune areas in the valley have soils that are well drained and<br />
retain little water. The best water-holding soils exist along the Whitewater<br />
Stormwater Channel from Rancho Mirage to Indio, in the lower cove of La<br />
Left: An automatic,<br />
programmable irrigation<br />
system will save you water,<br />
money and time, and can provide<br />
plants with the proper<br />
amounts of moisture for health<br />
and growth.<br />
Above: A drip irrigation system<br />
applies water slowly where it<br />
is needed most: at the plantÕs<br />
root zone.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 27
<strong>Water</strong>ing Basics<br />
A few practical guidelines will help make watering<br />
plants more efficient, while helping them grow successfully.<br />
o Create furrows or wide basins around plants so<br />
water will soak into the root zone.<br />
o Control weeds frequently. They steal valuable<br />
moisture and nutrients that should go to your plants.<br />
o Use organic mulches to increase retention of<br />
moisture in the soil and to keep roots cooler during hot<br />
weather. (See Mulching to Save <strong>Water</strong>, page 18.)<br />
o Apply water in early morning or evening hours<br />
during summer for highest water pressure and to minimize<br />
loss through evaporation.<br />
o Install automatic watering systems where possible<br />
for regulated applications by drip emitters, bubblers or<br />
pop-up sprinklers.<br />
o Make it a habit to adjust automatic irrigation<br />
clocks monthly. Increase or decrease the amount of<br />
water applied as water needs change with the seasons.<br />
o Don’t operate sprinklers during windy periods<br />
(winds tend to be more prevalent in the afternoon).<br />
Winds blow water away from the plants you want to<br />
irrigate and cause it to evaporate more rapidly.<br />
o Light hand sprinkling from a hose on shrubs, trees<br />
and vines does little good. Soak the soil deeply at the<br />
drip line.<br />
o The appearance of green algae on the soil surface<br />
indicates too much water is being applied. This often<br />
occurs in late summer or fall as temperatures cool.<br />
Reduce water applied, and check for leaks in irrigation<br />
system.<br />
Suggestions for watering different kinds of plants<br />
and gardens can be found in the chapter, Landscapes &<br />
Special Gardens, pages 137 to 151. These include containers,<br />
page 143; citrus and other fruits, page 147; and<br />
vegetable gardens, page 145.<br />
Quinta, in the Indio and <strong>Coachella</strong> areas and most of the<br />
lower valley. In some areas, soils may actually be poorly<br />
drained, and certain plants will not thrive there.<br />
Plant roots absorb water from the soil. <strong>Water</strong> is carried<br />
up to the leaves, drawn as water moves out into the drier<br />
outer air through microscopic pores in the leaves. Plants<br />
can lose massive amounts of water through their leaves<br />
(transpiration). In one study, an 8 foot-high corn plant<br />
transpired 150 gallons of water in a single day.<br />
Plants lose most of their water between noon and 4 in<br />
the afternoon. Roots absorb water day and night but, on<br />
a hot day, transpiration through the leaves may exceed<br />
absorption through the roots. If the loss is great, plants<br />
show their distress by wilting, but they often recover. If<br />
Plants will ÒtellÓ you when they need water by lackluster<br />
color, and drooping, curling leaves. It is better to<br />
water before they reach this stage to avoid major stress.<br />
enough moisture exists in the soil, moisture content in the<br />
leaves will return to normal at night. If water loss is too<br />
great, it can cause the plant to suffer damage or even cause<br />
its death.<br />
Plants start photosynthesis even before the sun breaks<br />
over the horizon, so early morning is the best time of day<br />
to water them. <strong>Water</strong>ing early or late at night also gets<br />
water into the soil without undue loss through evaporation<br />
due to higher, midday temperatures.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>ing in early morning or late evening also has<br />
the added benefit of higher water pressure. The greatest<br />
demand on public water systems is between 8 a.m. and<br />
8 p.m. Sprinklers work at peak efficiency when water<br />
demand is at its lowest—later in the evening or early<br />
morning. For plants susceptible to mildew, such as roses<br />
and lawns, morning watering is best: Leaves become dry<br />
before nightfall.<br />
Deep soaking trees, shrubs, palms and vines, young or<br />
old, helps them develop deep root systems. Deeper, wider,<br />
more extensive roots will have access to reservoirs of<br />
moisture in the soil. Access to this moisture is important<br />
during extended hot or dry conditions, which place extra<br />
demand on the plants.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> should be applied at the plant’s drip line. This<br />
is an imaginary area located at the outer perimeter of<br />
the plant. Picture where rain would naturally drip off of<br />
28 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
the leaves to the ground. It is here that the plant has its<br />
water-absorbing roots, or feeder roots. Near the trunk,<br />
you want to encourage development of strong anchoring<br />
roots. <strong>Water</strong>ing deep and wide has an added benefit. Trees<br />
and shrubs with an extensive root system are not as easily<br />
blown over by strong, gusty winds.<br />
To meet the needs of the plants and to save on water<br />
bills, water should be applied to the soil slowly so that it<br />
can soak in deeply. As mentioned, this encourages deep<br />
rooting, with roots well below the hot surface soil. A drip<br />
irrigation system on an automatic timer becomes a valuable<br />
tool to making this irrigation program come to life.<br />
Using Technology to Tell How Much and<br />
When to <strong>Water</strong><br />
Computer technology applied to current local weather<br />
conditions is available to help the home gardener irrigate<br />
precisely, replacing plant moisture loss.<br />
Developed and operated by the California Department<br />
of <strong>Water</strong> Resources primarily for agricultural irrigation,<br />
the California Irrigation Management Information System<br />
(CIMIS) is especially helpful to provide information<br />
on lawn irrigation. A home computer is not necessary,<br />
although it could make the information more useful.<br />
Evapotranspiration (ET)<br />
A computer in Sacramento regularly polls more than 100<br />
automatic weather stations throughout the state, including<br />
the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. It records local weather data such<br />
as temperature, relative humidity, dew point, wind speed,<br />
soil temperature, rainfall and net radiation. The computer<br />
stores the accumulated data and calculates hourly a reference<br />
figure for the total amount of water a plant needs to<br />
maintain itself. This evapotranspiration (ET) rate varies by<br />
plant type.<br />
A quick definition: Evapotranspiration is a process<br />
where plants open their pores and thus transpire water. The<br />
transpired water evaporates, which helps cool the plant.<br />
The evaporation action also physically helps pull more<br />
water into the leaves. The plant must open its pores to get<br />
the carbon dioxide it needs to make its food.<br />
Precise figures for many landscape plants have not yet<br />
been calculated, but the reference ET, or ET°, provides a<br />
good starting point.<br />
If the daily reference ET is known, calculate the daily<br />
irrigation need. You can then program irrigation system<br />
automatic controllers to deliver that amount.<br />
Moisture stress—replacing less moisture than ET losses—can<br />
cause plants to temporarily stop growing. By<br />
irrigating established plants at 80 percent of ET, the<br />
homeowner can mow and prune less frequently without<br />
injuring plants. They will grow about 50 percent less<br />
rapidly. Irrigating at less than 80 percent will cause plants<br />
described in this book as high-water users to weaken and<br />
decline, becoming more susceptible to disease and pests.<br />
Fruit trees and vegetable gardens should always be irrigated<br />
at 100 percent of the ET rate. Less than 100 percent<br />
and the quality and quantity of vegetables and fruit harvested<br />
will be greatly diminished.<br />
CIMIS Computer<br />
CIMIS information can be accessed on to the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong> website at www.cvwd.org. Even<br />
without computer access, the National Weather Service<br />
makes the information accessible by announcing local ET<br />
information every day on KIG 78, the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
weather radio station (162.4 MHz). Inexpensive radios<br />
that receive only the weather station are also available in<br />
electronics stores. If you do not have a weather radio or<br />
internet access, you can call to hear the CVWD’s taped<br />
weather forecast at (760) 398-7211, or (760) 345-3711.<br />
Designing a <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong><br />
Irrigation System<br />
A CIMIS station gathers local weather information and<br />
sends it to Sacramento for analysis. This information is<br />
then distributed to local irrigators.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 29
Irrigation systems are available for every type of landscape.<br />
A drip irrigation system is best for areas that contain<br />
shrubs and trees. An automatic pop-up sprinkler system is<br />
a must for efficient lawn watering. Extensive beds of flowers<br />
or ground covers as well as vegetable gardens can be<br />
watered by drip emitters or bubblers. An automatic timer<br />
regulating the irrigation system(s) is optimal for savings<br />
and convenience. Gardeners and plants greatly benefit<br />
from automated irrigation systems.<br />
Overall, drip irrigation is considered the best system<br />
for most sections of the landscape. It slowly and precisely<br />
places water in the root zone on a regular basis to encourage<br />
proper growth and healthy plants. Only the root zone is<br />
irrigated, and little water is wasted on open spaces between<br />
plants. This reduces water loss to evaporation by as much<br />
as 60 percent. As an added bonus, the home gardener's<br />
maintenance workload is reduced simply because there is<br />
less moist soil surface to sprout weeds.<br />
Get in the Zone<br />
The first step in designing your own irrigation system is to<br />
evaluate your landscape. Draw a map of your lot, including<br />
existing plants. Graph paper, with one square equaling<br />
a unit of measurement, works well. Make several copies of<br />
this master layout. On one copy, draw in plants you want<br />
to add to the landscape. If you have an existing irrigation<br />
system, draw that on your map as well.<br />
Next, define separate watering zones. Each zone should<br />
consist of plants with similar water requirements, from low<br />
to very high. Irrigation zones are based on how often the<br />
plants need to be watered, as well as typical soil depth for<br />
their roots. Actual gallon amounts applied is not a concern<br />
at this stage.<br />
The average automatic irrigation control “timer” has<br />
space for six zones, which is usually more than enough for<br />
the average home landscape.<br />
Typically, Zone One includes trees and large shrubs<br />
that need infrequent, yet slow, deep irrigation. Zone Two<br />
usually includes small shrubs, perennials, vines and other<br />
plants that need regular irrigation. Zone Three and Zone<br />
Four could be for a vegetable garden or lawn—areas<br />
watered every day in summer. Zone Five could be for<br />
plants in containers on the patio, which require irrigation<br />
every day via a drip system. Zone Six may be ground cover<br />
or flowerbeds, irrigated with bubblers or multihead “spider<br />
head” drip irrigation.<br />
Irrigation System Components<br />
As you begin to plan (and then install) an irrigation system,<br />
it’s helpful to learn some terminology. Next, you<br />
will need to walk through the steps required to install the<br />
components to see how they fit together. Last, you will<br />
have to go back to the zoned lot plan you created to figure<br />
out which and how many water delivery devices you will<br />
need to install for the different plant zones or gardens you<br />
have on site.<br />
Before you start installing your irrigation system, it’s a<br />
good idea to become familiar with irrigation terms. This<br />
is true even if you will have an irrigation professional do<br />
the installation for you. This knowledge will help insure<br />
that the work performed meets your needs and is installed<br />
properly.<br />
Stores that specialize in irrigation supplies can offer<br />
valuable assistance to the do-it-yourselfer. Most are willing<br />
to provide expert advice, and they carry a wide range of<br />
the specialty parts you’ll require. Because they are in business<br />
for professionals, they carry quality equipment that is<br />
standardized and interchangeable.<br />
Home-improvement and hardware stores usually do<br />
not offer the same quality of service or variety of parts<br />
as specialty stores. They sell prepackaged systems with<br />
detailed written instructions. It is wise to purchase wellknown<br />
brands. Often the equipment of unknown brands<br />
is substandard. Additionally, components of an economy<br />
brand often cannot be interchanged with those of other<br />
manufacturers. Once a system is installed, it is important<br />
to have a dependable source of parts for replacement and<br />
expansion.<br />
Even professionals have to visit the irrigation supply<br />
store more than once during the installation of a major<br />
project. They often run out of this or that fitting. Do not<br />
be embarrassed by multiple trips to the store. Ideally, if<br />
you plan properly you’ll have more than enough of all you<br />
need. Likewise, don’t be shy about overbuying and then<br />
returning excess. Keep in mind, too, that it’s helpful to<br />
have a few extras of everything on hand for future maintenance<br />
and repairs.<br />
Components and Terms<br />
The following terms are loosely grouped by the type of<br />
service they perform. As mentioned, become familiar with<br />
as many of these terms as possible.<br />
Zone—Group of sprinklers that operate together and are<br />
controlled by the same control valve. Also called a station.<br />
Pipe—Polyethylene tubing and PVC (polyvinyl chloride)<br />
are the two most commonly used types of irrigation pipe.<br />
Both types include UV resistant compounds, and both can<br />
last up to 20 years.<br />
Pipe comes in various diameters. As a general rule,<br />
homeowners should install irrigation lines that are 1/2-inch<br />
diameter. Hose bibs are generally made of 1/2-inch pipe,<br />
although water typically comes into the home in 3/4-inch<br />
pipe.<br />
PVC is a rigid pipe generally used for commercial appli-<br />
30 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
Overhead view of an efficient, zoned irrigation system layout. For more information, see Get in the Zone, left.<br />
cations and lawn systems. Pipes are cut with a saw and<br />
linked using fittings and a special glue.<br />
Polyethylene is a soft, flexible pipe or tubing, most commonly<br />
used for drip systems. Once only available in black,<br />
it is now available in a variety of colors, which makes is<br />
easy to identify which tubing is delivering water to different<br />
zones.<br />
Polyethylene can be cut with pruning shears or a polyethylene<br />
cutting tool. Sections are then linked with compression<br />
fittings or compression couplings that are simple<br />
to press into place.<br />
Fittings—Pieces of pipe are connected with various fittings.<br />
Common fittings include 45- and 90-degree elbows,<br />
“T” connectors and straight connectors (to connect two<br />
pieces of pipe). Special adapters are available that link different<br />
types of pipe, such as PVC pipe with polyethylene<br />
pipe, which happens on occasion.<br />
Microtubing—Used in drip irrigation, this narrow diameter<br />
tubing delivers water from polyethylene pipe to the<br />
drip emitters. It is attached to polyethylene pipe with<br />
barbed connectors.<br />
Holes for the microtube connectors are punched using<br />
a specialized punch tool that is purchased when you buy<br />
your other supplies. Purchase a number of “goof-plugs” at<br />
the same time. Use them to close any holes made in the<br />
wrong spot on the polyethylene pipe, or to plug microtubes<br />
that are no longer in use.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> Delivery Devices—Lawns are irrigated with sprinklers.<br />
Trees, shrubs and other plants can be irrigated with<br />
drip emitters or bubblers. Sprayers and misters can also be<br />
part of an irrigation system in special situations.<br />
Drip Emitter—In a drip irrigation system, an emitter,<br />
also called a dripper, slowly releases the water. Available<br />
in button or flag devices, some of the newer, self-cleaning<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 31
Irrigation Guide for Trees, Shrubs and Ground Covers in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
Trees & Shrubs Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.<br />
*High 45 56 53 59 60 59 59 57 63 52 44 42<br />
*Med. 31 35 33 38 39 38 38 37 41 33 28 28<br />
*Low 14 21 16 17 18 18 18 17 18 16 14 14<br />
Gallons per day for established trees and large shrubs (15 to 20 feet high and as wide)<br />
Ground covers Jan. Feb. Mar. Apr. May June July Aug. Sept. Oct. Nov. Dec.<br />
*High 2.4 2.8 2.8 3.1 3.0 3.1 3.1 3.0 3.2 2.8 2.3 2.1<br />
*Med. 1.8 1.9 1.8 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.0 2.1 1 1.8 1.6 1.4<br />
*Low .7 .9 .9 1.0 .9 .9 .9 .9 1.0 .9 .7 .7<br />
Irrigation Days per Week<br />
Gallons per day for small shrubs and ground covers<br />
2 3 4 5 6 7 7 6 5 4 3 2<br />
*Plants are categorized as high, medium or low water use in Success with Desert Plants. See pages 42 to 135.<br />
To calculate how long to water with a drip system, divide the gallonage ratings of your emitters into the gallons per irrigation<br />
day times 60 minutes. For example, a 1-gallon emitter on a plant requiring 8 gallons per cycle: multiply 8x60 divided by 1<br />
for a required irrigation time of 480 minutes, or 8 hours. Large trees naturally require more and larger emitters. Four 2-gallon<br />
emitters would apply the same amount of water in one hour as a single 1-gallon emitter in 8 hours.<br />
flags are a worthwhile option in areas with hard water<br />
(See Maintaining and Troubleshooting your Irrigation<br />
System, page 38.)<br />
Emitters are rated by the gallons per hour (GPH) of<br />
water that they deliver. Select emitters that deliver an<br />
appropriate GPH depending on your plant needs and<br />
soil type. (See chart above.) In sandy soil, it’s helpful to<br />
release water for shorter but more frequent periods. Clay<br />
soils do not drain rapidly so can accept lower GPH emitters<br />
but with longer running times. Note: It is possible to<br />
mix emitters with different GPH on a single zone line.<br />
Non-Compensating Emitters—These emitters have a<br />
set flow rate at a given pressure and are used on level<br />
ground.<br />
Compensating Emitters—Use where there are elevation<br />
extremes of more than 10 feet. They produce a<br />
nearly constant flow rate regardless of changes in water<br />
line pressure.<br />
In-Line Drippers—A type of drip emitter that is placed<br />
in a long continuous line of microtube. Useful in vegetable<br />
gardens, flowerbeds or for ground covers. These<br />
slowly emit water to soil around plant roots, and use less<br />
water than bubblers or sprinklers.<br />
Multi-Head—Part of a drip system that allows 6, 8 or<br />
12 lines of microtubing to come out of a single, central<br />
location. Used in planting beds or with ground covers.<br />
Also called an octopus or spider-head.<br />
Bubblers—<strong>Water</strong> bubbles downward, rather than sprinkling.<br />
Use to water planter beds by slowly flooding the<br />
bed, or place them near individual plants according to<br />
the plant’s gallons-per-minute requirement. Often used<br />
to water trees that prefer flood irrigation, such as citrus.<br />
Also rated in gallons per hour, and available as adjustable<br />
or non-adjustable.<br />
Adjustable Bubbler—Higher quality devices require a<br />
tool to set or adjust the flow (generally a Phillips head<br />
screwdriver). Check for a wide range of flow adjustments,<br />
debris filters and set flow adjustments that hold.<br />
Nonadjustable Bubbler—More tamper resistant than<br />
adjustable types. Check for availability of several flow<br />
models, pressure compensation and debris screens.<br />
Microspray Head—Emits water in a spray diameter<br />
around the head. These were once popular for ground<br />
cover beds. However, they have proven to be inefficient,<br />
with a large percentage of water applied lost to evaporation.<br />
For a more modern irrigation system that is more<br />
efficient, replace microsprayers with multi-heads and<br />
drip emitters or bubblers.<br />
32 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
Mister—A type of emitter that sends out a mist of water.<br />
Used especially in greenhouses that need to maintain high<br />
humidity, or occasionally on patios for plants that require<br />
high humidity.<br />
Porous Hose—Also called soaker hose. These hoses can<br />
be attached to irrigation pipe via a fitting called a hose<br />
adapter. Porous hose allows water to ooze through a series<br />
of minute channels in the hose along its entire surface.<br />
The soil is thus watered the entire length of the hose and<br />
to a width that depends on soil type and amount of time<br />
irrigated. It is a good option for vegetable gardens and<br />
flowerbeds.<br />
Irrigation Tape—Used in commercial agriculture, and<br />
can be used in home vegetable gardens. It is a specially<br />
constructed, thin-walled drip pipe that has holes placed<br />
every few inches to discharge water. Lay down an irrigation<br />
tape for each row of planting. Install on the soil surface<br />
or bury one or two inches deep.<br />
Sprinklers—A wide range of types are available, with a<br />
variety of techniques used to disperse water through the air<br />
to the targeted garden location. A great percentage of water<br />
applied can be lost to evaporation by using sprinklers.<br />
Pop-Up Sprinkler—Irrigation device that will pop up out<br />
of an underground housing to water an area, then descend<br />
into the housing once watering is over. Sprinkler heads<br />
with plastic components and with pop-down springs are<br />
currently popular but have a shorter life expectancy than<br />
the older style constructed of brass or other metal.<br />
A pop-up height of 3 to 4 inches is ideal for lawn. Check<br />
for debris screens to reduce clogging. Heads are available<br />
in several nozzle patterns and radii (color-coded ones<br />
are preferred). These provide coverage to small irregular<br />
areas. Low-angle nozzles are recommended for windy<br />
locations.<br />
Pop-Up Rotor—A form of pop-up sprinkler that will cast<br />
the water in a rotating circle. It can be set to sprinkle in a<br />
360- degree circle, or as little as a 90-degree arc.<br />
End Cap—Every irrigation zone (line) requires an individual<br />
end cap. By removing this cap, you can clean the<br />
line out after installing the system—before first use. Clean<br />
out all the dirt, sand and debris in the line that can clog<br />
emitters or sprinklers. End caps should also be opened<br />
periodically so lines can be flushed clean.<br />
Backflow Preventer—A device that prevents the water<br />
in the irrigation system from siphoning back into drinking<br />
water. In some regions, ordinances require installation of<br />
backflow preventers. Also called anti-siphon valve.<br />
Filter—All irrigation systems need some type of filter<br />
to keep dirt and debris from clogging the emitters. Look<br />
for one that comes apart easily for its quarterly cleaning.<br />
Some stores sell fertilizer tablets that can be placed inside<br />
the filter. Do not use these because they lead to salt buildup<br />
and clog the drip emitters.<br />
Emergency Shut Off—Necessary to allow you to shut<br />
off water to the irrigation system in case of an emergency.<br />
It is recommended the irrigation system be installed on a<br />
separate water line stubbed off of the main water line that<br />
goes into your home.<br />
Pop-Up Spray Head Design<br />
1. Pop-up Spray Head<br />
2. Walk or Curb<br />
3. PVC Schedule 80 Nipple<br />
(4Ó minimum length)<br />
4. PVC TxT 90 Degree Ell<br />
5. Lateral Line Pipe & Fitting<br />
6. Marlex 90 Degree Street Ell<br />
7. PVC Schedule 80 Nipple<br />
(6Ó long)<br />
8. Finish Grade<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 33
Daily Irrigation Schedule for Turfgrass<br />
in Minutes per Day<br />
This chart shows the average number of minutes a grass<br />
lawn typically needs water each day. <strong>Water</strong>ing times<br />
can vary significantly based on sprinkler efficiency and<br />
soil conditions. Reduce watering times gradually to<br />
determine the proper amount needed for your lawn.<br />
Month Spray Heads Rotary Heads<br />
January 4 9<br />
February 6 15<br />
March 9 21<br />
April 12 27<br />
May 15 33<br />
June 17 38<br />
July 16 38<br />
August 15 33<br />
September 12 28<br />
October 9 19<br />
November 5 13<br />
December 4 7<br />
air vent<br />
Shut-Off Valves—These can be either a gate valve, which<br />
functions like a water faucet, or a ball valve, which rotates<br />
90 degrees to close a ball inside the pipe. Ball valves are<br />
preferred, and are less likely to break down or freeze up<br />
over time.<br />
Pressure Regulator—A device that maintains steady<br />
water pressure within your lines. One must be installed in<br />
each zone. Pressure regulators insure that surges in water<br />
pressure do not rupture lines or blow emitters off the tubing.<br />
Pressure regulators are rated by the pounds per square<br />
inch (PSI) of water pressure they permit. Generally a 20<br />
PSI regulator is ideal for a home landscape. Depending on<br />
the type of lawn sprinklers you use, you may need a higher<br />
PSI. Also if you need to apply water up a slope from where<br />
your valves are located, you may need a higher PSI, as well<br />
as pressure-compensating emitters.<br />
Pressure Gauge—Used in commercial applications, and<br />
not generally required by the homeowner. <strong>Water</strong> in desert<br />
regions often contains minerals or salts that can build up<br />
over time. A pressure gauge, installed downstream from<br />
both the filter and pressure regulator, lets you know when<br />
it’s time to clean the filter. Regular quarterly (every three<br />
months) cleaning of the filter and flushing lines eliminates<br />
the need for this device.<br />
Automatic Controller—Functions to control the watering<br />
cycle by sending a signal to the control valve(s) to open or<br />
close on the days and times you pre-select. You program<br />
the controller and direct it when, how long and how often<br />
to water plants. For outdoor installation, check for a gasket-sealed<br />
door and a sturdy case that can be locked. Also<br />
called a timer.<br />
Weather-based controllers adjust automatically according<br />
to weather conditions, eliminating the need for the<br />
homeowner to adjust water output each month.<br />
Features to check for: A battery or other backup to retain<br />
the irrigation program during power failure; two to three<br />
start times per program per day; up to 6 hours run time<br />
per zone; 21-day calendar or programmable day intervals<br />
and rainy day shutoff. Another desirable feature is remote<br />
access by modem or radio, programmable to use ET data<br />
from CIMIS. See page 29.<br />
Electro-mechanical Controller—An older style controller<br />
that runs only one zone (valve). Generally uses “pins”<br />
to trigger start and stop times. Irrigation supply stores usually<br />
have pins available.<br />
Features to check for: Minimum 3-minute cycle for spray<br />
heads; maximum 6-hour cycle for drip; 21-day calendar.<br />
Valves—Valves can be automatic or manual. One option is<br />
to have manually operated valves for each zone. You simply<br />
turn the valve on when plants in that zone need water.<br />
Also called control valve. If you convert to low-water-use<br />
plants throughout your landscape, a manual valve is an<br />
inexpensive option. This is because many desert-adapted<br />
plants need only a periodic deep soak once every three<br />
weeks or so in summer. Many require no water once (they<br />
are established) in winter.<br />
Valves are generally made of durable plastic. For com-<br />
antisiphon<br />
valve<br />
PVC schedule 40 ell<br />
Remote Control Valve<br />
ID tag<br />
waterproof connection<br />
30 inches wire, coiled<br />
remote control valve<br />
Install 6Ó minimum above<br />
highest point of discharge.<br />
UV radiation-resistant PVC<br />
schedule 40 male adapter<br />
(1 of 2)<br />
UV radiation-resistant PVC<br />
schedule 40 pipe (1 of 2)<br />
finish grade<br />
PVC irrigation<br />
water line (1 of 2)<br />
34 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
mercial applications, brass is more expensive but recommended.<br />
Also, brass is preferred if valves will not be<br />
sheltered in a housing. (See below.)<br />
Automatic Valves—These are electrically operated by<br />
the controller. The low-voltage electricity comes from the<br />
controller into a solenoid on the valve that “tells” the valve<br />
to open or close. Purchase valves with a back-up manual<br />
option. This allows you to operate the valve even if the<br />
controller or solenoid are not functioning.<br />
Features to check for: Emergency shut-off; manual override;<br />
replaceable solenoid assembly.<br />
Valve Housing—Valves are generally placed in protective<br />
housings, which can be either above or below ground. It is<br />
best to decide which works best for you and your landscape<br />
before you visit the store. Underground housings have a<br />
much nicer appearance and are much less obtrusive, yet<br />
access to valves makes it more difficult to work on them<br />
in case of malfunction. Valve housings were once available<br />
only in green. They come in other colors that blend better<br />
in the landscape, including a desert tan.<br />
Atmospheric Breaker Valve—A type of valve required<br />
in landscapes that include lawn. Allows the water to bleed<br />
back out of the line and allows the pop-up sprinklers used<br />
to irrigate the lawn to drop back down into their housings.<br />
Once these were the only type of valves available, and<br />
depending on the store, may still be the only type. The<br />
atmospheric breaker capability is not required for drip<br />
lines.<br />
Manifold—Term used to cover a number of valves placed<br />
near one another, possibly because the entire apparatus<br />
appears similar to the exhaust manifold of an automobile<br />
engine. Also called valve manifold.<br />
Mainline—<strong>Water</strong> line from water source to the valve<br />
assembly. A mainline is usually PVC pipe.<br />
Zoneline—<strong>Water</strong> line from the valve assembly and extending<br />
around a particular zone. Generally, PVC pipe is used<br />
for lawn zones and polyethylene pipe is used for all other<br />
irrigation zones.<br />
Installing Your Irrigation System<br />
At last, you have decided on your irrigation zones. Now<br />
you need to decide where you (or your contractor) will<br />
install the controllers and valves. If you are interviewing<br />
contractors and they do not fully understand the following<br />
questions, consider finding another contractor who does<br />
understand.<br />
q Where is the water source most easily accessible,<br />
yet the irrigation system will be unobtrusive<br />
q What is the pipe size at that point<br />
q Where is the electric power source for any automatic<br />
controller<br />
q Where is the most easily accessible yet unobtrusive<br />
site<br />
for automatic controller and the control valves<br />
Before going to purchase your equipment, make a list<br />
Installed and operated correctly, an automatic sprinkler system is the ideal way to irrigate lawns.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 35
of the required supplies. If your irrigation plan is neatly<br />
drawn to scale, the irrigation equipment supplier should<br />
be willing to help compile a list of what you’ll need, along<br />
with an estimated price.<br />
The hardest part of installing an irrigation system is the<br />
physical digging of holes where all the pipes and valves<br />
will go. Start with the mainline. The mainline leads from<br />
the water source to a location where you will be placing<br />
your valves. As mentioned, the mainline is generally<br />
constructed of PVC pipe rather than polyethylene because<br />
it is more resistant to pressure changes. As you leave the<br />
water source and begin the mainline, install the emergency<br />
shut-off and the backflow preventer. You can also install a<br />
single filter for the whole system at this point.<br />
Depending on your design, you may have a short or<br />
long mainline. You may even have several mainlines to<br />
different zones. Keep in mind that if you use an automatic<br />
controller, you will also need to run the control wires to the<br />
automatic valves.<br />
Once your mainline trench is dug to where your zone<br />
control valves will be located, lay in the mainline. Next,<br />
install the valves and all the associated devices you will<br />
need for each zone line. This is occasionally referred to as<br />
the valve assembly.<br />
Each zone will need a filter if you have not already<br />
installed one. Next step is to install the control valve. The<br />
control valve can be automatic or manual. If automatic, it<br />
is linked by a low voltage wire to the automatic controller.<br />
Immediately after the control valve, install a pressure<br />
regulator. As an option, you can install a pressure gauge<br />
after the regulator.<br />
If your zonelines are constructed of polyethylene, you<br />
must install an adapter that links the pressure regulator to<br />
the zoneline. This device permits easy disconnect for any<br />
necessary repairs.<br />
Now that your valve assembly is complete, you can<br />
begin to run the zone lines to where they are needed.<br />
Microirrigation (Drip) Systems<br />
Professional-quality landscape microirrigation equipment<br />
was developed initially for agricultural use. <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> farmers have been among the world leaders in developing<br />
and using microirrigation techniques. Homeowners<br />
in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> benefit by having easy access to<br />
several irrigation speciality stores. These stores are excellent<br />
sources for equipment, as well as advice. Irrigation<br />
professionals are available to suggest problem-solving<br />
Drip Emitter Assembly<br />
1. Drip Emitter<br />
2. Poly Flex Rise<br />
3. Finish Grade<br />
4. PVC Fitting<br />
(SxS x 1/2Ó FIPT)<br />
5. PVC Pipe<br />
36 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
steps and provide expert guidance.<br />
For commercial applications, irrigation systems must<br />
be strongly constructed, resistant to vandals, hidden from<br />
view, locked, and must operate with a minimum of supervision.<br />
Home systems need not be so heavily constructed.<br />
For optimal, long-term survival of any irrigation system,<br />
quarterly maintenance is necessary. This maintenance<br />
schedule is easy to remember. Often, it is performed at<br />
the same time when automatic timers are adjusted for the<br />
change in water need as the seasons and temperatures<br />
change.<br />
Installation Tips<br />
Polyethylene pipe will have compression fittings that grip<br />
the pipe from the outside. They can be admittedly difficult<br />
to compress into place. Never use lubricant to install the<br />
compression fittings! If necessary, you may warm the<br />
polyethylene pipe in hot sun or with a heat gun or hair<br />
dryer to make the fittings easier to install.<br />
The older style “insert fittings” should not be used. They<br />
grip the hose on the inside and can come loose and leak<br />
with fluctuating pressure or summer heat.<br />
Zone line should be run around the outside perimeter of<br />
all the plants served by that zone. From the polyethylene<br />
pipe to the plants, you will then install microtube(s). A drip<br />
emitter is placed at the end of each piece of microtube.<br />
The microtube is connected to the polyethylene pipe with<br />
a barbed connector.<br />
Make a hole in the zone line for this connection using<br />
a punch, a special tool available where you purchased the<br />
irrigation supplies. You can cut a hole with a knife or icepick,<br />
but if the hole is too large it will leak. If you have a<br />
leak, your only option is to cut out that section of hose and<br />
replace it with another section, connecting the replacement<br />
pipe with compression fittings.<br />
Standard installation will have at least one emitter at<br />
each plant. Trees will have three or more emitters, depending<br />
on size and water requirements. The goal should be to<br />
moisten at least 50 percent of the soil volume within the<br />
plant’s drip line.<br />
A plant’s drip line is not the same as an irrigation drip<br />
line. The plant drip line marks an imaginary area around<br />
the outer perimeter of the plant where rain would drip off<br />
of the leaves. It is here that the plant’s feeder roots, which<br />
absorb water and nutrients, are located.<br />
For healthy trees and shrubs that will resist being blown<br />
over by the wind, encourage wide rooting by placing emitters<br />
at the plant’s drip line. Because plants are continuously<br />
ItÕs best to Irrigate plants such as ground covers so that water is applied above the foliage, allowing coverage to be<br />
more uniform over the planting area. This microbubbler is elevated to provide an even application of water.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 37
growing and increasing in size, you will need to periodically<br />
adjust the location of the drip emitters, as well as add<br />
more emitters.<br />
With a zone line well away from the base of your large<br />
plants and with long microtubes, it is simple to move<br />
emitters as plants grow. Planning for future growth is<br />
important.<br />
Luckily, you can connect microtubing to the polyethylene<br />
pipe as many times as you want. Because drip emitters<br />
release water slowly, decreased water flow is not an issue.<br />
The only issue is that the length of each microtube should<br />
be less than 10 to 12 feet.<br />
Frequency of watering will depend on soil type and<br />
weather conditions. See Plants and Their Day-to-Day<br />
<strong>Water</strong> Needs, pages 27 to 29.<br />
Drip emitters usually come in 0.5, 1 or 2 gallons or more<br />
per hour (GPH) sizes. The variety of plant sizes, water<br />
needs, soil types and growing conditions can make selecting<br />
emitter sizes confusing. Plants growing beneath trees<br />
or in the shade of a structure will need less water than for<br />
the same plant species in an exposed location. However,<br />
many plants that prefer shade are actually very high water<br />
users, and may even require more water than the trees providing<br />
the shade.<br />
Because of the big difference in the comparative water<br />
requirements of small shrubs and large trees, they should<br />
be placed on separate zones (valve circuits). Mid-sized<br />
plants generally can share any zone available, by adjusting<br />
the number and size in GPH of the emitters that provide<br />
their water.<br />
Emitter size and placement also depends on soil type.<br />
Sandy soils drain so rapidly that water moves very little<br />
horizontally (from side to side) in the soil. Emitters must<br />
be spaced closer together in sandy soils to provide sufficient<br />
coverage of the root zone. If the area isn't windy,<br />
microspray heads may be more efficient than drip heads<br />
in such soils.<br />
Fine-textured (clay) soils allow drip emitters to soak<br />
wider areas, reducing the number of emitters needed.<br />
However, water spreads slowly downward through clay<br />
soils, so delivery time should be increased.<br />
On slopes, place emitters uphill 12 to 18 inches from the<br />
drip line of the plant. This way water flows down toward<br />
the plant to provide more adequate coverage.<br />
Often, many different plant types are planted close<br />
together in a home landscape. Some need more moisture<br />
than their neighbors. Drip emitters with different flow<br />
rates can be used at the same operating pressure to meet<br />
individual plant needs. Multiple outlet emitters also can be<br />
installed to apply more water to large trees or shrubs.<br />
When including lawn in your landscape, try to keep the design simple. This will make it easier to water, mow and trim<br />
edges efficiently.<br />
38 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
Emitter example: Two shrubs of similar size are planted<br />
on the same zone. Shrub A is a high-water user. It gets 5<br />
emitters that flow 1 GPH. Shrub B is a low-water user. It<br />
gets 3 emitters that flow at 1/2 GPH. The system operates<br />
for 6 hours once a week. Shrub A (high water) has 30 gallons<br />
to sustain it for the coming week. Shrub B (low water)<br />
has 9 gallons to sustain it.<br />
Keep in mind that this example is for established plants,<br />
not newly planted ones. Also note that all plants in the<br />
same zone (the same station) will be irrigated for the same<br />
amount of time.<br />
Specialized Irrigation Systems<br />
Vegetable Gardens—A vegetable garden should be on its<br />
own irrigation zone. Drip irrigation is an option, but speciality<br />
devices such as in-line drippers, multi-heads, porous<br />
hose or irrigation tape can also be used. Check your garden<br />
daily when the system is first installed to be certain plants<br />
are receiving adequate moisture. Once the summer garden<br />
is established, watering may be required only two to three<br />
times per week, depending on soil type and the garden’s<br />
exposure.<br />
Flowerbeds—Drip irrigation for special situations such<br />
as flowerbeds can be challenging. This is where specialty<br />
drip devices are of value, much the same as with vegetable<br />
gardens. Look to in-line drippers, multi-heads, porous<br />
hose, irrigation tape or bubblers to supply the varied water<br />
application needs of these plants.<br />
Ground Covers—If a desert-adapted ground cover is<br />
used, irrigation is simple. Due to low water needs, well<br />
spaced drip emitters will be ample as long as the run time<br />
evenly moistens the soil covered by the ground cover.<br />
If high-water use plants are installed, the homeowner<br />
may opt to use specialty devices such as in-line drippers,<br />
multi-heads, porous hose, irrigation tape or bubblers.<br />
Irrigating a Grass Lawn—A grass lawn should be on<br />
its own zone. The control valve must be an atmospheric<br />
breaker valve. The pipe for the entire zone should be rigid<br />
PVC pipe.<br />
An irrigation system that sprinkles water from overhead<br />
is usually the right choice for lawn irrigation. Depending<br />
on the size and shape of the lawn, install either pop-up<br />
sprinklers or pop-up rotors.<br />
Plan your system so the entire surface of the lawn is<br />
watered without overspraying any areas, or leaving areas<br />
dry. Avoid overspray on buildings or fences, which can<br />
cause extensive damage over time. Also avoid spraying<br />
surrounding landscape plants where fungal diseases or<br />
water spotting will become a problem.<br />
When the weather turns cool, homeowners often neglect<br />
watering Bermudagrass lawns. Never allow them to become<br />
bone dry, even if they are not overseeded. If winter rains<br />
are absent, irrigate at least once or twice a month. Doing so<br />
will allow the lawn to recover more promptly in spring.<br />
Retrofitting an Irrigation System<br />
Retrofitting an irrigation system usually occurs when homeowners<br />
move from lawn sprinklers or bubblers to drip<br />
irrigation. Most of the time, existing PVC piping can be<br />
utilized for the new system.<br />
Check operation of existing valves. These valves may<br />
need to be replaced with smaller valves designed for<br />
reduced flows.<br />
Drippers may be installed on existing PVC piping and<br />
irrigation-head risers by using a multi-head fitting. This<br />
allows you to connect 6, 8, or 12 lines of microtubing (with<br />
drip emitters on each microtube) from a single location cut<br />
into the PVC. If connecting multiheads to existing PVC is<br />
not an option in your landscape, you’ll have to install new<br />
polyethylene zone lines.<br />
Polyethylene pipe can be attached to PVC pipe with a<br />
special compression adapter. Polyethylene can be run from<br />
existing valves and placed where necessary to water plants<br />
in each zone. For best landscape appearance and longevity<br />
of the polyethylene pipe, bury it a few inches below the<br />
soil surface.<br />
A drip-irrigation controller must be capable of long cycle<br />
watering—from 1 to 6 hours. If it is electronic, it is probably<br />
adequate for the new system. Electro-mechanical controllers<br />
usually have 30- to 60-minute maximum run times<br />
per zone. If drip irrigation will be installed on an existing<br />
electro-mechanical station, it is best to replace it with an<br />
electronic weather-based controller.<br />
Maintaining and Troubleshooting Your<br />
Irrigation System<br />
When plants wilt or die, the cause may be a malfunction of<br />
the irrigation system. Regular maintenance of the system<br />
can usually prevent this. When problems occur, rational,<br />
systematic troubleshooting techniques can identify problems<br />
so you can make repairs.<br />
Maintenance and repairs are easier if you’ve planned<br />
the initial installation carefully. Controller wiring should<br />
be arranged so all valves operate in sequence as you walk<br />
around the house. Some controllers have an optional test<br />
cycle schedule built in, which is typically two to five minute<br />
per zone.<br />
Electrical problems can prove to be troublesome. Again,<br />
preventing problems with a quality installation is the<br />
best policy. Wire connectors at automatic control valves<br />
must be properly waterproofed or, better yet, use all UL<br />
approved connectors made for direct burial.<br />
Controllers should be on their own circuit breaker to<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 39
prevent loss of power if another appliance malfunctions.<br />
Heat causes a lot of controller failure. To reduce controller<br />
failure caused by heat, position them out of direct sun—<br />
especially afternoon sun. Install away from air conditioning<br />
units, which produce heat. Replace backup batteries in<br />
time clocks at the beginning of each summer.<br />
Checking a Lawn Irrigation System<br />
To find out if water is being applied evenly throughout the<br />
lawn area, perform this simple test. First, set several empty<br />
coffee cans, tuna cans or other straight-sided containers on<br />
the lawn. Place in a grid pattern between sprinklers. Run<br />
spray head sprinklers for 15 minutes; run rotor head sprinklers<br />
for 30 minutes. After this allotted time, use a ruler to<br />
measure and record the depth of water collected in each<br />
container. By using containers that are all the same size<br />
(with identical surface areas), water volume for separate<br />
areas around the lawn can be compared by pouring them<br />
into a kitchen measuring cup. If there is a difference of<br />
more than 20 percent between maximum and minimum,<br />
identify problem spots and adjust sprinkler head flow<br />
rates.<br />
Most spray head irrigation systems spaced 12 to 15 feet<br />
apart should accumulate about 1/2 inch of water in 15<br />
minutes of operation. Most irrigation systems using larger<br />
rotor sprinklers spaced 25 to 40 feet apart will accumulate<br />
about 1/4-inch of water in 30 minutes.<br />
The lawn irrigation chart on page 34 is for established<br />
Bermudagrass lawns, watered during the cooler hours<br />
of the day. If you overseed with winter ryegrass in fall,<br />
increase water to meet the germination needs of the rye.<br />
The irrigation chart assumes normal weather conditions<br />
and sprinkler uniformity. Irrigation time should be<br />
increased when temperatures are above normal or conditions<br />
are windy, and decreased during rainy periods.<br />
Preventative Maintenance of Lawn Systems<br />
Operate the test cycle manually from the controller after<br />
each mowing to check for damaged or malfunctioning<br />
sprinkler heads.<br />
Heads must pop up to clear grass and pop down at the<br />
end of the cycle. If they do not, debris is clogging them or<br />
there is another problem. Clean and flush the heads.<br />
Look for clogs, rotors not turning, heads tilted out of<br />
alignment, or part-circle heads twisted out of horizontal<br />
alignment. Also check for head-to-head sprinkler coverage.<br />
Each sprinkler should throw water to just reach the<br />
area covered by the adjoining sprinkler. If it is coming up<br />
short, it could be caused by a major loss of pressure due<br />
to a broken head or pipe. This will need immediate repair.<br />
A broken sprinkler head can waste at least 500 gallons of<br />
water a week and continue to cause other sprinklers on the<br />
system to malfunction.<br />
A "double swing" joint installed on sprinkler heads usually<br />
prevents major damage to the installation. The best<br />
time to include the joint is when the system is installed. To<br />
make a double swing joint, lateral tees and ells are installed<br />
at 90 degrees to vertical and two-threaded street ells are<br />
installed before installing the sprinkler riser. Flexible risers<br />
can be installed on existing systems.<br />
Homeowner Alert—Be aware of possible liability problems<br />
caused by injuries from improperly placed sprinkler<br />
heads. Be sure all heads are below grade of adjacent walkways,<br />
but only slightly so.<br />
If lawns slope toward a structure or sprinklers throw<br />
water onto a structure, moisture can enter the wall, causing<br />
severe damage. Regrade planted areas so water drains away<br />
from structures. Replace or redirect errant sprinklers.<br />
Preventative Maintenance of Irrigation Systems<br />
Once per quarter, when you change the controller program<br />
to reflect the seasonal change, operate the test cycle. It<br />
allows you to see if each valve is coming on and shutting<br />
off properly. Run the system long enough to check all<br />
water delivery devices.<br />
Start at the beginning of the system with a check of each<br />
of the following:<br />
<strong>Water</strong> Meter—Check the flow routinely when the irrigation<br />
system is running. Changes in flow rate will warn of<br />
problems. Unusually fast flow is indicative of a leak. An<br />
abnormally slow flow indicates clogged filters or emitters.<br />
Some high-tech systems use electronic flow meters connected<br />
to controllers to automatically shut off a system or<br />
valve when the flow rate goes outside preset limits. When<br />
this happens, an error message is left for the user.<br />
Emergency Shut-off—Operate this valve to be sure it still<br />
works properly. By testing it once per quarter chances are<br />
it will not be frozen open when you need it to close.<br />
Filters—Although quarterly cleaning is a must, clean<br />
them more often if it is necessary to keep the system flowing<br />
without pressure loss.<br />
Controller—Check regularly that the correct time and day<br />
of week are displayed.<br />
Controller Program—Check and adjust every couple of<br />
weeks during spring and fall and every month or two during<br />
summer as needed. Keep pace with changing weather<br />
conditions unless a soil-moisture sensor override system or<br />
weather-based controller is used.<br />
If the controller is electronic, determine if it is running<br />
the personalized program you set it to run, instead of the<br />
default program. If the default program is running, check<br />
the battery backup system and replace batteries as needed.<br />
You will then have to reprogram the controller as well.<br />
Irrigation Schedule—For heavy water users, determine<br />
40 u <strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation
if at least 80 percent of daily evapotranspiration (ET)<br />
requirements are being met. Low-water use plants may<br />
require only 40 to 60 percent of daily ET, while lawns in<br />
late spring or early summer may be much higher. See irrigation<br />
guide for landscape plants, page 31, and irrigation<br />
guide for lawns, page 34.<br />
Irrigation Timing—Operate irrigation systems during the<br />
coolest time of the day in summer and early enough in the<br />
day in winter so plant leaves dry before dark.<br />
Valves—Check for flow. Be sure the optional manual<br />
override on automatic valves is not frozen open or shut.<br />
Pressure Gauge or Schrader Test Valve—This optional<br />
piece of equipment is set at the end of a micro-irrigation<br />
system to diagnose leak or pressure regulator problems.<br />
Drip System Lines—Flush lines quarterly by removing<br />
all of the end caps and running the system for about two<br />
minutes. Put the end caps in your pocket when you remove<br />
them so they won’t be washed away by the flow. Likewise,<br />
flush lines after breaks are repaired.<br />
Emitters—Check for clogs or lost emitters. Look for any<br />
leaks caused by damaged pipe or microtubing.<br />
Bubblers—Check for proper flow and any leaks.<br />
Runoff—During a normal irrigation cycle, check for water<br />
runoff. If water is running off, divide application into two<br />
or more cycles during the day separated by an hour of<br />
“soak-in time.”<br />
Diagnosing Irrigation Problems<br />
Valves fail to operate. This may happen after you tested<br />
the system and you forgot to return the automatic controller<br />
function switch to the “run” position. Professionals and<br />
amateurs alike make this error surprisingly often.<br />
In electronic systems, the second-most common reason<br />
the valves do not operate is a program set incorrectly.<br />
Examples include when the day is set to “off,” the “skip<br />
days” is incorrectly set or the “start time” is set to off.<br />
Valve failure can be caused by loose wires on the valve<br />
or controller. Check wire connections and tighten them.<br />
Sometimes the solenoid in the valve becomes defective.<br />
Test with a multimeter or volt meter. If it is bad, you may<br />
be able to replace the solenoid, or replace the entire valve.<br />
Valves open at the wrong times. This is due to incorrect<br />
programming of the automatic controller. It may be as<br />
simple as resetting the a.m. and p.m. setting of the clock.<br />
No display on the electronic controller. Power to the<br />
controller has been lost. Check the breaker. If it is OK, turn<br />
the breaker off and check controller wiring to the house<br />
current.<br />
Dry spots between sprinkler heads. Usually the result<br />
of a clogged or broken spray head. A broken riser or pipe<br />
below the riser can also be the problem, but not as often.<br />
Unclog the sprinkler head or repair the break.<br />
Occasionally, dry spots are the result of low water pressure.<br />
Dry spots a few feet from rotor heads with green<br />
interlinking rings farther out between heads or, in the case<br />
of spray heads, green around the head and dry in between,<br />
is typical of low pressure. Clean the filter to fix.<br />
Dry spots can be caused by misaligned spray heads.<br />
Check to see if they are perpendicular to the surface they<br />
are watering.<br />
A single dry spot that suddenly appears in the lawn is probably the result of one sprinkler failing. For example, one<br />
rotor head is not turning or there is a clogged nozzle.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>-<strong>Efficient</strong> Irrigation u 41
u<br />
c h a p t e r t h r e e<br />
Success with Desert<br />
Plants<br />
u<br />
Selecting plants for valley gardens can be a difficult task, because we<br />
have so many different species to choose from. Our sunny climate,<br />
mild winters and long growing season allow an extremely wide<br />
range of landscape plants to grow and thrive.<br />
Gardeners have among their choices “traditional” landscape plants—<br />
those that have been grown in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> for decades. Expanses<br />
of lawn bordered by hedges and bracketed by skyline palms, brought to<br />
life with colorful beds of annuals in the foreground, come to mind. This<br />
type of landscape may be visually appealing to many, but they require a<br />
tremendous amount of water to establish and maintain.<br />
After years of testing and research by pioneering landscape professionals,<br />
nurserymen and growers, a wide selection of new plants that are<br />
attractive and colorful, yet use much less water, are now available. Many<br />
are native to our region; others come from arid climates around the world.<br />
With a thoughtful eye toward design, these plants are gradually changing<br />
the face of our region. At the same time, they are greatly reducing the<br />
amount of water it takes to keep our landscapes attractive and thriving.<br />
As you look through the following pages, consider these new plants as<br />
candidates for your own landscape. In the long term, it is wise for all of<br />
us to select plants that are lush as well as water efficient.<br />
The colorful icons shown below help explain at a glance what each<br />
plant needs to grow successfully: preferred exposure to the sun, water<br />
requirements, plus each plant’s inherent ability to withstand cold. Because<br />
conditions are so variable from garden to garden, use these recommendations<br />
as a general guide. Note too, that the water recommendations are for<br />
established plants, which means plants have lived through two summers<br />
in our desert climate.<br />
Reflected Sun<br />
High <strong>Water</strong>. <strong>Water</strong> every day in summer.<br />
Full Sun<br />
Partial Sun<br />
Shade<br />
28°<br />
Moderate <strong>Water</strong>. <strong>Water</strong> every other day<br />
in summer.<br />
Low <strong>Water</strong>. <strong>Water</strong> two to three times per<br />
week in summer.<br />
Cold Hardiness in degrees Fahrenheit<br />
Left: California poppies partner<br />
with an agave for a colorful,<br />
low-water combination.<br />
Above: The lush, colorful<br />
flowers of Leucophyllum<br />
ÔGreen CloudÕ.<br />
Success with Desert Plants u 43
T R E E S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Trees are extremely versatile plants,<br />
serving many different landscape functions.<br />
They can frame a desirable view,<br />
screen unsightly elements, help create<br />
privacy and provide a backdrop for a<br />
home or other plants.<br />
Trees provide permanent structure<br />
to a design, establish the scale of the<br />
landscape, give visual proportion to<br />
open space, and define the “ceiling” of<br />
the space. Several large trees can<br />
provide a landscape’s framework, with<br />
smaller trees, shrubs, vines and other<br />
plants playing supporting roles.<br />
44 u Success with Desert Plants
Acacia species<br />
Acacia<br />
Acacias are native to regions all around<br />
the globe. With almost 1,000 species, a<br />
wide variety of forms, textures and colors<br />
are available, including both evergreen<br />
and deciduous plants. Acacias are tolerant<br />
of heat and are generally low to moderate<br />
water users. Provide trees with deep,<br />
infrequent irrigations to help establish root<br />
systems. Flowers are individually tiny but<br />
are clustered into puffballs or long drooping<br />
flowerheads called catkins.<br />
Acacia aneura<br />
15°<br />
mulga<br />
Evergreen and thornless, mulga grows<br />
slowly to 20 feet high and 15 to 20 feet<br />
wide. Small, narrow, silvery gray leaves are<br />
leathery, similar to those of an olive tree,<br />
and are dense along the branches. Makes a<br />
fine windbreak and screen. Yellow catkins,<br />
the flowers, are heaviest during late spring<br />
into summer. Native to Australia.<br />
Acacia berlandieri<br />
15°<br />
guajillo<br />
Like many native American acacias, light<br />
green leaves are delicate and almost fernlike.<br />
Trees grow at a moderate rate from 10<br />
to 15 feet high and 12 feet wide. Fragrant,<br />
cream-colored, puffball flowers bloom in<br />
tune with spring weather. Plant in welldrained<br />
soil. Smallish thorns are usually<br />
not a serious hazard. Gradually prune<br />
lower branches to develop small tree form.<br />
Native to southern Texas and Mexico.<br />
Acacia craspedocarpa<br />
20°<br />
leatherleaf acacia<br />
Grows slowly from 10 to 15 feet high and 8<br />
feet wide with a rounded crown. Evergreen<br />
with rounded, upright gray-green leaves.<br />
Yellow puffball flowers bloom spring to<br />
summer. Prune into a tree or leave shrubby<br />
as an alternative to oleander, effective as a<br />
screen. Native to Australia.<br />
Below: Acacia<br />
craspedocarpa, leatherleaf<br />
acacia.<br />
Below left: Acacia aneura,<br />
mulga.<br />
Below right: Acacia berlandieri,<br />
guajillo.<br />
Trees u 45
Below: Acacia rigidula,<br />
blackbrush acacia.<br />
Below left: Acacia saligna,<br />
blue leaf wattle.<br />
Below center: Acacia<br />
salicina, willow acacia.<br />
Below right: Acacia willardiana,<br />
palo blanco.<br />
Acacia farnesiana<br />
10°<br />
sweet acacia<br />
(A. smallii, A. minuta). This is a medium,<br />
open, multi-trunk tree with vaselike form,<br />
fernlike leaves, small thorns, and fragrant<br />
flowers. Deciduous to semi-deciduous,<br />
grows at a moderate rate from 20 to 25<br />
feet high and as wide. Yellow puffball<br />
flowers are profuse in spring and produce<br />
a wonderful sweet fragrance. Avoid heavy<br />
pruning as it leads to problematic suckers.<br />
Native to Mexico.<br />
Acacia rigidula<br />
15°<br />
blackbrush acacia<br />
A slow-growing small tree or large shrub<br />
reaches 15 feet high and as wide. Tolerates<br />
heat and drought, but will also accept<br />
moist conditions, such as near lawns. The<br />
smooth, gray bark contrasts nicely against<br />
glossy green leaves that are cold deciduous.<br />
Long catkins of cream-colored flowers<br />
bloom in spring. Some plants have<br />
thorns. Native to Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Acacia salicina<br />
20°<br />
willow acacia<br />
A low-water and enduring alternative to<br />
weeping willow, which is short-lived in<br />
desert regions. Graceful, pendulous evergreen<br />
leaves on trees that grow rapidly<br />
from 20 to 40 feet high, spreading 10 to<br />
20 feet wide. Creamy white puffball flowers<br />
bloom late summer into winter. <strong>Water</strong><br />
deeply and well away from the trunk<br />
to avoid blow over during windstorms.<br />
Native to Australia.<br />
Acacia saligna<br />
blue leaf wattle,<br />
20°<br />
weeping wattle<br />
Rapid, aggressive, vertical growth with a<br />
dense canopy to 20 feet high with an equal<br />
spread. Evergreen leaves drape gracefully<br />
toward the ground. Yellow puffballs<br />
are mildly fragrant, appearing in spring.<br />
Native to Australia.<br />
46 u Success with Desert Plants
Acacia stenophylla<br />
15°<br />
shoestring acacia<br />
Strong, vertical and graceful, rapidly reaching<br />
25 to 30 feet high yet spreading only<br />
15 to 20 feet wide. This is an ideal tree for<br />
narrow spaces. Long, stringlike, soft graygreen,<br />
evergreen leaves up to 4 inches<br />
long hang from its branches. A clean tree<br />
that does not produce much litter—useful<br />
around pool and patio areas. Do not plant<br />
in lawns. Native to Australia.<br />
Acacia willardiana<br />
24°<br />
palo blanco<br />
With delicate, papery white bark, weeping<br />
branches, fine leaves and airy form, this<br />
small acacia provides an elegant touch to<br />
the landscape. Grows at a moderate rate,<br />
reaching 20 feet high and spreading to 15<br />
feet wide. Its open form allows planting<br />
of sun-loving perennials below it. Accepts<br />
heat, even reflected heat of south-facing<br />
walls. Native to subtropical Sonora,<br />
Mexico.<br />
Albizia julibrissin<br />
10°<br />
silk tree,<br />
mimosa tree<br />
A deciduous tree that grows rapidly from<br />
25 to 35 feet high and as wide. Develops<br />
a wide canopy with graceful, light green,<br />
feathery foliage. Best to stake young trees<br />
to develop form. Produces an abundance<br />
of rich pink, silky flowers in summer and<br />
sporadically at other times of the year. As<br />
flowers and pods drop, they create litter. A<br />
nice tree to view from above. Occasional<br />
deep watering is essential, otherwise, the<br />
tree is typically short-lived. Native to Asia.<br />
Arecastrum<br />
25°<br />
romanzoffianum<br />
queen palm<br />
(Syagrus romanzoffianum). Grows with a<br />
straight trunk 25 to 40 feet high with graceful,<br />
arching, feathery leaves. It responds<br />
to regular moisture and fertilizer during<br />
warm periods, but encouraging too-rapid<br />
growth can cause fronds to break. Locate<br />
Below left: Acacia<br />
stenophylla, shoestring<br />
acacia.<br />
Below right: Acacia<br />
farnesiana, sweet acacia.<br />
Below: Albizia<br />
julibrissin, silk tree.<br />
Trees u 47
Top left: Brahea armata,<br />
Mexican blue palm.<br />
Above: Bauhinia<br />
lunarioides, white<br />
orchid tree.<br />
Above right: Bauhinia<br />
variegata, purple<br />
orchid tree.<br />
48 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
in areas protected from strong winds.<br />
Protect young trees when temperatures<br />
drop below 30°F. <strong>Water</strong> deeply when sustained<br />
high temperatures reach 110°F to<br />
120°F. A clean plant to have around pools.<br />
Native to Brazil.<br />
Bauhinia species<br />
Orchid Tree<br />
Depending on the species, Bauhinia are<br />
native to the Chihuahuan Desert or to Asia.<br />
The Asian species are very frost tender,<br />
but the Chihuahuan natives are rough,<br />
and tough, and can take heat and cold.<br />
Bauhinia leaves are butterfly-shaped, but<br />
you’ll want to grow them for their gorgeous,<br />
orchidlike flowers.<br />
Bauhinia blakeana<br />
32°<br />
hong kong orchid tree<br />
Grows at a moderate rate from 15 to 20<br />
feet high and wide. Abundant maroon to<br />
pink flowers bloom from December to<br />
April, and are quite dramatic in size and<br />
color. Deep water at drip line of tree about<br />
once each week in summer. Plant in welldrained<br />
soil. Native to China.<br />
Bauhinia lunarioides<br />
15°<br />
white orchid tree<br />
(B. congesta). Another common name for<br />
this plant is Chihuahuan orchid shrub. It<br />
can be pruned into a small tree but usually<br />
is more shrublike, growing slowly to<br />
15 feet high. Produces large clusters of<br />
fragrant, white or pink flowers in spring.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> deeply every three weeks during<br />
summer. Native to Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Bauhinia purpurea<br />
25°<br />
purple orchid tree<br />
Grows at a moderate rate to 30 feet high<br />
with umbrella-shaped canopy and graygreen<br />
leaves. <strong>Water</strong> deeply about once<br />
every week during summer. Native to<br />
India.<br />
Bauhinia variegata<br />
25°<br />
purple orchid tree<br />
Like Bauhinia purpurea, also called the<br />
purple orchid tree. It forms a dense,<br />
medium green crown at a moderate to<br />
rapid rate up to 25 feet high with an
equal spread. Profuse magenta to purple<br />
flowers cover the branches in late winter.<br />
White-flowered forms are available.<br />
Mature trees can be seen throughout the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Native to India and<br />
China.<br />
Brachychiton<br />
populneus<br />
18°<br />
bottle tree<br />
Adapted to hot, dry and windy conditions.<br />
Evergreen, shiny, dark green leaves cover<br />
a pyramidal form that grows at a moderate<br />
rate from 30 to 50 feet high, spreading to<br />
20 feet wide. <strong>Water</strong> at the tree’s drip line<br />
(see page 29) to encourage a deep, widespreading<br />
root system. Prune in winter to<br />
remove dead wood and control wayward<br />
branches. Leaf drop occurs in early spring<br />
as new leaves crowd out the old ones. Seed<br />
pods drop in late summer. Acidify soil to<br />
avoid chlorosis. Native to Australia.<br />
Brahea armata<br />
18°<br />
mexican blue palm<br />
(Erythea armata). Slowly grows from 20 to<br />
30 feet high, spreading only 10 feet wide,<br />
making it well-suited to small gardens.<br />
Icy blue fan-shaped fronds are an attractive<br />
feature. Use as an accent or blend<br />
with other silvery-leaved plants. Low litter<br />
plant, good near pools. Mature plants<br />
feature creamy flower clusters 6 to 10 feet<br />
long in summer. Native to Baja California.<br />
Brahea edulis<br />
24°<br />
guadalupe island palm<br />
Featuring light green fan-shaped fronds,<br />
this fan palm grows slowly to 30 feet<br />
high, and spreads to about 10 feet at<br />
maturity. An ideal palm accent in small<br />
areas or around pools—it can take extreme<br />
heat and reflected light. Provide monthly<br />
deep waterings in summer heat. Native to<br />
Guadalupe Islands in Baja California.<br />
Butia capitata<br />
15°<br />
pindo palm<br />
(Cocos australis). Accepts frost and<br />
extreme heat and sun—hardships of every<br />
kind. Grows slowly 10 to 20 feet high<br />
with an equal spread. Gray-green, feathery<br />
leaves are long and graceful. Uniquely<br />
rugged trunk shows off the former leaf<br />
Above left: Bauhinia<br />
blakeana, Hong Kong<br />
orchid tree.<br />
Above: Brachychiton<br />
populneus, bottle tree.<br />
Trees u 49
Top left: Ceratonia<br />
siliqua, carob.<br />
Above: Caesalpinia<br />
cacalaco, cascalote.<br />
Above right:<br />
Callistemon viminalis,<br />
weeping<br />
bottlebrush.<br />
bases, helping making this palm an ideal<br />
accent plant. Apply fertilizer to the soil if<br />
leaves yellow. Native to Brazil, Uruguay<br />
and Argentina.<br />
Caesalpinia cacalaco<br />
20°<br />
cascalote<br />
An attractive, vase-shaped small tree,<br />
growing at a moderate rate to 15 feet high<br />
and almost as wide. Spikes of clear yellow<br />
flowers bloom at the branch tips late winter<br />
into early spring. Flowers can be damaged<br />
by late frosts. Avoid by planting in a protected<br />
location. Luxuriant foliage is armed<br />
with rose-sized thorns, so place away from<br />
pedestrian traffic. Plant in well-drained<br />
soil. Prune after the flowering season ends<br />
to control ungainly growth. Native to Vera<br />
Cruz, Mexico.<br />
Callistemon viminalis<br />
22°<br />
weeping bottlebrush<br />
An exceptional small tree that grows at<br />
a moderate rate from 20 to 30 feet high<br />
with a 15-foot spread. This freely branching<br />
evergreen has pendulous branches that<br />
become covered with magnificent, red,<br />
bottlebrush flowers midspring and summer.<br />
Attracts butterflies and hummingbirds.<br />
Do not plant in lawns—the roots do<br />
not like to be that moist. Also avoid windy<br />
locations. Native to Australia.<br />
Callistemon citrinus is similar but has a<br />
less weeping form.<br />
Ceratonia siliqua<br />
carob,<br />
20°<br />
st. john’s bread<br />
This is a large, wide-spreading evergreen<br />
tree growing from 20 to 40 feet high and<br />
as wide. Moderate rate of growth. Carob’s<br />
round-headed form is densely branched<br />
and provides deep, cooling, welcoming<br />
shade. Compound leaves are a lush, shiny<br />
deep green. Female plants develop long,<br />
brown seed pods that can be messy. Male<br />
plants do not produce pods. <strong>Water</strong> deeply<br />
and infrequently to encourage deep rooting.<br />
Young trees need cold protection<br />
below 25°F. Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
50 u Success with Desert Plants
Cercidium species were recently<br />
reclassified as Parkinsonia.<br />
See page 58.<br />
Chamaerops humilis<br />
18°<br />
mediterranean fan palm<br />
This is a slow-growing, multitrunked fan<br />
palm. Dwarfish in habit, it’s a fine palm<br />
for a small yard. Attains height of 10 to<br />
12 feet at maturity. Faster growth with<br />
regular water and fertilizer during warm<br />
season. Leaves are small and abundant, the<br />
petioles (see page 153) armed with sharp<br />
spines. Plants may sucker freely, spreading<br />
to form a dense clump. A handsome tub<br />
plant or a featured plant near pools. Native<br />
to the Mediterranean and north Africa.<br />
Chilopsis linearis<br />
desert willow<br />
This light, airy, 25- to 30-foot deciduous<br />
tree is perfect for locations where you need<br />
summer shade but want winter sun, such as<br />
on the south side of the house. Graceful,<br />
light-green leaves provide a splendid backdrop<br />
to clusters of large, orchid-like flowers<br />
that come in a wide variety of pinks,<br />
reds and purples. Many horticultural varieties<br />
of this lovely tree are now available,<br />
including some which flower spring<br />
and summer. Do any heavy pruning during<br />
the deciduous period—December into<br />
February. Prune to control growth, create<br />
new flowering wood and to display the<br />
handsome, smooth gray trunks. Native to<br />
Sonoran and Chihuahuan desert arroyos, it<br />
does best in soil with good drainage.<br />
Chitalpa X<br />
tashkentensis<br />
0°<br />
chitalpa<br />
This tree is a hybrid from Russia that is a<br />
cross of two genera, Chilopsis linearis and<br />
Catalpa bignonioides. Chitalpa combines<br />
some of the best characteristics of both<br />
plants. It is more evergreen and has larger,<br />
more vivid, white or pink flower clusters<br />
compared to its parents. Mature size of 20<br />
to 30 feet high and as wide works well in<br />
most small gardens. Accepts partial shade.<br />
Availability at nurseries may be limited,<br />
but worth the search.<br />
Top left: Chilopsis<br />
linearis, desert willow.<br />
Left: Chamaerops humilis,<br />
Mediterranean fan palm.<br />
Above: Chitalpa X tashkentensis,<br />
chitalpa.<br />
Trees u 51
Below: Dalbergia sissoo,<br />
Indian rosewood.<br />
Below center: Cupressus<br />
arizonica, Arizona cypress.<br />
Below right: Cupressus<br />
sempervirens, Italian<br />
cypress.<br />
Chorisia speciosa<br />
silk floss tree,<br />
26°<br />
kapok<br />
Also called the drunkard’s tree, because<br />
the mature trees look like a giant, lime<br />
green Chianti bottle topped with spreading<br />
boughs. Trunk has distinctive thorns. (See<br />
photo page 53.) In fall, profuse numbers of<br />
large, rose to wine-colored flowers appear,<br />
followed by seed pods filled with white<br />
cottony kapok, once used to fill life vests.<br />
Trees can reach 30 to 50 feet high and<br />
spread 25 to 40 feet, so they’re not a good<br />
choice for a small garden. Occasionally<br />
deciduous prior to bloom period. Avoid<br />
windy locations. <strong>Water</strong> deeply. Native to<br />
Brazil and Argentina.<br />
Cupressus arizonica<br />
arizona cypress<br />
This is a superior, medium-sized evergreen<br />
for use as a windbreak or tall screen<br />
in low-maintenance situations. Grows at<br />
a moderate rate from 30 to 40 feet high<br />
and 30 feet wide with a pyramidal form.<br />
Gray-green, scalelike foliage varies from<br />
plant to plant. Branches have a distinct<br />
whipcord texture. Thrives in low-rainfall<br />
areas when established. Resistant to<br />
cypress canker.<br />
‘Gareei’ is a grafted selection, which<br />
means plants will consistently have rich,<br />
silvery, blue-green foliage. ‘Blue Ice’ features<br />
silvery-blue foliage. ‘Compacta’ has<br />
a more compact growth form.<br />
Note: Cupressus arizonica is often called<br />
rough-barked Arizona cypress, and C. glabra<br />
as smooth-barked Arizona cypress.<br />
Rough-barked Arizona cypress is known<br />
to perform better in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
Cupressus<br />
sempervirens<br />
10°<br />
italian cypress<br />
This tall, vertical accent tree is often used<br />
in formal landscapes. It is propagated by<br />
cuttings rather than grown from seed to<br />
reproduce its desired qualities. The distinctive,<br />
narrow and dense columnar form<br />
reaches 20 to 60 feet high.<br />
Red spider mites can appear in summer<br />
and kill drought-stressed trees. <strong>Water</strong><br />
deeply every three weeks to avoid this<br />
problem. Treat mites when they appear.<br />
Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
‘Glauca’ has attractive, bluish green,<br />
juniperlike foliage. ‘Stricta’ is similar in<br />
form and size with dark green foliage.<br />
52 u Success with Desert Plants
Dalbergia sissoo<br />
30°<br />
indian rosewood<br />
This is a moderately fast growing shade tree<br />
that generally reaches 40 feet high and 30<br />
wide with a rounded crown. Evergreen to<br />
cold-deciduous with below-freezing temperatures,<br />
but recovers quickly in spring.<br />
Bright glossy, lush green leaves make<br />
this a pleasant shade tree. Wide spreading<br />
roots are useful to stabilize erosion-prone<br />
banks and slopes. This is not commercial<br />
rosewood, but is used in its native India as<br />
a timber tree.<br />
Dalea spinosa<br />
22°<br />
desert smoke tree<br />
(Recently reclassified as Psorothamnus spinosus.)<br />
This native of the Mojave and<br />
Sonoran Desert is often overlooked when<br />
planning a landscape, and that is a shame.<br />
Native to the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> region, it<br />
survives wonderfully without much care<br />
other than shaping young trees into tree<br />
form (if desired). Grows better with some<br />
extra water; its natural habitat is along<br />
desert washes. Does best in sandy to rocky<br />
soils.<br />
This small tree is well-suited to today’s<br />
smaller lots. Unlike many other desert<br />
trees, it fills in densely to provide an effective<br />
screen. Grows at a slow to moderate<br />
rate from 15 feet high and as wide. In<br />
late spring the silvery gray, smoky-looking<br />
branches are virtually obscured by<br />
the striking, fragrant, deep purple-blue<br />
blooms.<br />
Eriobotrya japonica<br />
15°<br />
loquat, japanese plum<br />
<strong>Lush</strong>, tropical-looking fruit tree that grows<br />
at a moderate rate to 15 feet high and as<br />
wide with a rounded crown. Plant in a location<br />
protected from high winds, and where<br />
it will receive afternoon shade. Woolly,<br />
cream-colored flowers in fall produce<br />
delicious, pear-shaped clusters of fruit in<br />
spring. Trees will recover from hard freezes,<br />
but fruit are damaged at about 28°F.<br />
For highest quality fruit, select a named<br />
grafted cultivar such as ‘Champagne’, or<br />
‘Thales’. Native to Japan and China.<br />
Eucalyptus species<br />
Eucalyptus<br />
All of the readily available species of<br />
eucalyptus are evergreen and grow rap-<br />
Below left: Chorisia<br />
speciosa, silk floss tree.<br />
Below: Eriobotrya<br />
japonica, loquat.<br />
Trees u 53
Below: Eucalyptus cinerea,<br />
silver dollar tree.<br />
Below right: Eucalyptus<br />
spathulata, swamp malee.<br />
idly when young. The trees are evergreen,<br />
but individual leaves are constantly being<br />
shed with new leaves replacing them.<br />
This makes them poor choices near pools.<br />
Twigs and bark of some species also create<br />
litter. Most species produce flowers that<br />
are generally inconspicuous cream-colored<br />
puffs followed by small seed pods.<br />
Natives of Australia, many species of<br />
eucalyptus have been imported to the West,<br />
where they are used in home and commercial<br />
landscapes. Initially, they served to<br />
drain swampy areas, and planted as windbreaks<br />
to protect orchards and homesites.<br />
They continue these utilitarian roles today.<br />
A serious pest, eucalyptus thrips, can kill<br />
trees if not controlled. Treat for thrips<br />
when you first discover them.<br />
Selecting eucalyptus for a home landscape<br />
requires careful planning, because<br />
many species grow to 60 feet or even higher—much<br />
too large for most residences.<br />
Smaller species are better suited to the size<br />
and scale of most home lots. Be particularly<br />
careful when selecting trees if power<br />
lines are part of your landscape. Encourage<br />
deep, wide-spreading roots with deep and<br />
wide watering, ideally with drip irrigation.<br />
Eucalyptus cinerea<br />
15°<br />
silver dollar tree<br />
Medium-sized tree from 20 to 50 feet<br />
high. It has a tendency to form multiple<br />
trunks, which make it attractive when<br />
viewed as a silhouette. Gray-green, rounded<br />
leaves grow as opposites along the<br />
stems. Juvenile leaves are excellent for cut<br />
foliage in flower arrangements. Tolerates<br />
wind, and can be planted 10 to 15 feet apart<br />
as a windbreak. Accepts lawn conditions.<br />
Eucalyptus microtheca<br />
10°<br />
coolibah<br />
Graceful tree from 20 to 40 feet high, but<br />
tends to take on a leaning posture unless<br />
staked when young. Best results when<br />
trained as a single trunk. Trunks of older<br />
trees eventually become brown and corky.<br />
Can be used as a windbreak, with less fragile<br />
branches than other species.<br />
Eucalyptus papuana<br />
20°<br />
ghost gum<br />
Grow this stately eucalyptus for its notable,<br />
smooth, snowy white trunk. Grows at<br />
a moderate rate, reaching from 20 to 60<br />
feet high and 15 to 30 feet wide, often with<br />
54 u Success with Desert Plants
multiple trunks. Leaves are leathery, gray<br />
to medium green, and pendulous, making<br />
it a good specimen tree for the landscape.<br />
Eucalyptus spathulata<br />
18°<br />
swamp malee<br />
Evergreen, compact and handsome, with<br />
multiple trunks. Smooth, reddish to tan,<br />
peeling bark adds a sculptural effect.<br />
Grows at a moderate rate 15 to 30 feet high<br />
with an equal spread. Graceful, ribbonlike<br />
leaves 2 to 3 inches long are grayish green.<br />
Makes an excellent screen or windbreak.<br />
Its size, color and texture allows swamp<br />
malee to blend better with desert vegetation<br />
than most other eucalyptus. Tolerates<br />
salty, poor soil, and can be planted near<br />
lawns.<br />
Eysenhardtia<br />
orthocarpa<br />
15°<br />
kidneywood<br />
(E. polystachya). A small, thornless tree to 15<br />
feet high, sometimes more, spreading to 10<br />
feet wide. It tends to be multitrunked, and<br />
can be kept as a shrub. Grows at a moderate<br />
rate with an open and airy form. Light<br />
green, compound leaves allow for excellent<br />
filtered light for plants such as perennials<br />
or small shrubs underneath. Accepts<br />
some shade. Fragrant white flower spikes<br />
are pollinated by butterflies, and bloom<br />
through summer. Native to Arizona.<br />
Fraxinus uhdei<br />
‘Majestic Beauty’<br />
majestic beauty,<br />
22°<br />
evergreen ash<br />
Vigorous growth, reaching 50 to 60 feet<br />
high with 50-foot spread. Strong branching<br />
habit. Exceptionally large, compound,<br />
glossy, dark green leaves add splendor<br />
to this medium-sized, round-headed tree.<br />
Cold-deciduous below 30°F. More uniform<br />
growth than other ashes and more<br />
cold tolerant, but leaves may burn if subjected<br />
to hot winds. Deep irrigation helps<br />
reduce surface rooting. Parent stock native<br />
to streamsides in Mexico.<br />
Geijera parviflora<br />
30°<br />
australian willow<br />
This evergreen, graceful, fine-textured tree<br />
grows at a moderate rate, reaching 15 to 25<br />
feet high and 15 to 20 feet wide. Rounded<br />
to pyramidal in form, it remains small<br />
Below left: Eysenhardtia<br />
orthocarpa, kidneywood.<br />
Below center: Eucalyptus<br />
microtheca, coolibah.<br />
Below: Geijera parviflora,<br />
Australian willow.<br />
Trees u 55
Above top: Lagerstroemia<br />
indica, crape myrtle.<br />
Above and above center:<br />
Lysiloma watsonii var.<br />
thornberi, feather tree.<br />
Above right: Jacaranda<br />
mimosifolia, jacaranda.<br />
enough for patios. Plant it for the weeping<br />
willow appearance created by the medium<br />
green, strap-shaped leaves. Uniform<br />
growth at a moderate rate can be accelerated<br />
with additional water. Good soil<br />
drainage is essential. Native to Australia.<br />
Jacaranda mimosifolia<br />
20°<br />
jacaranda<br />
(J. acutifolia). This is a large, round-headed,<br />
semievergreen tree that grows at a moderate<br />
to rapid rate 30 to 50 feet high and 15<br />
to 30 feet wide. Best for parks, commercial<br />
use or large residences due to its size. Lacy,<br />
fernlike, green leaves and large clusters of<br />
attractive, lavender-blue flowers bloom<br />
profusely May and June, producing an<br />
appealing tropical effect. As flowers drop,<br />
they produce a fair amount of litter, so<br />
avoid locating trees near swimming pools.<br />
Plant in soil with good drainage. <strong>Water</strong><br />
deeply to reduce development of surface<br />
roots but do not overwater. <strong>Water</strong> weekly<br />
in growing season, but only once or twice<br />
during dormant winter period. Suckers if<br />
pruned too drastically. Native to Brazil.<br />
Koelreuteria bipinnata<br />
28°<br />
chinese flame tree<br />
(K. integrifolia). Grown in part for its<br />
small, yellow, summer flowers. These<br />
become inflated papery pods that resemble<br />
miniature Chinese lanterns. As the season<br />
progresses, the pods change from a creamy<br />
white to orange-red and brown. Makes a<br />
nice shade tree from 20 to 35 feet high<br />
with an equal spread. Trees develop sturdy<br />
trunks that are often irregular, but light<br />
pruning of young trees can direct growth.<br />
Plant in well-drained soil. Deciduous, with<br />
variable fall color. Native to China.<br />
Lagerstroemia indica<br />
15°<br />
crape myrtle<br />
Vigorous deciduous tree or shrub that<br />
offers year-round interest. Can be trained<br />
to become a quality tree to 25 feet, admired<br />
for its striking clusters of flowers that<br />
bloom summer into fall. Foliage turns<br />
bright shades of orange, yellow or red in<br />
fall. After leaves drop, the satiny, pale,<br />
sculptural bark adds close-up interest.<br />
Avoid planting in lawn areas, which can<br />
cause plants to develop mildew problems,<br />
as will excessive humidity. Can be grown<br />
in containers. Many hybrids and cultivars<br />
are available in a range of flower colors,<br />
including white, pink, red, magenta, lavender<br />
and purple. Native to China.<br />
56 u Success with Desert Plants
Lysiloma watsonii<br />
var. thornberi<br />
28°<br />
feather tree<br />
(L. microphylla var. thornberi). Finely divided,<br />
fernlike foliage provides a lush, tropical<br />
effect. Creates dappled shade that can<br />
accommodate underplantings of perennials<br />
and small shrubs—highly effective in a<br />
mini-oasis setting. By the time plants are<br />
6 to 10 years old, the multitrunk growth<br />
can reach 15 to 20 feet. It also can be<br />
grown as a shrub. After a spring show<br />
of creamy white, puffball flowers, seed<br />
pods are numerous enough to create litter<br />
in early summer, but are easy to remove.<br />
Avoid pruning large branches in summer.<br />
Plant in full sun in soil with good drainage.<br />
Overwatering during summer can<br />
create chlorotic conditions. Although it<br />
can freeze to the ground, it will regrow as a<br />
large shrub. Native to Sonora, Mexico.<br />
Melaleuca<br />
quinquenervia<br />
28°<br />
cajeput tree<br />
Slender, vertical, evergreen tree from 20 to<br />
35 feet high, spreading 10 to 20 feet wide.<br />
Bark is white to light brown, thick, corky<br />
and peels off the trunk in sheets. Rich<br />
green foliage is graceful, thickly covering<br />
the branches. Thin branches as necessary<br />
as tree ages, but do not top. Stands up to<br />
strong winds. Slender spikes of creamy<br />
white flowers adorn branches in summer.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> deeply to encourage deep rooting.<br />
Accepts some shade. Native to Australia.<br />
A related species, Melaleuca alternifolia,<br />
is the source of “tea tree oil.”<br />
Olea europaea<br />
15°<br />
fruitless olive<br />
Olive is a time-honored, quality, evergreen<br />
tree with an informal, picturesque growth<br />
habit. Grows at slow to moderate rate 20<br />
to 30 feet high and as wide, as a standard<br />
form, or with multiple trunks. With time,<br />
trunks become gnarled, adding to the tree’s<br />
character. Distinctive, narrow, gray-green<br />
leaves reach up to 3 inches long. Olive<br />
fruit can become a problem, littering and<br />
staining pavement. Pollen production also<br />
affects many people with allergies. ‘Swan<br />
Hill’ is a fruitless selection.<br />
Accepts low water applications, but<br />
additional moisture produces a more handsome<br />
tree. Avoid heavy pruning, especially<br />
late spring through summer, which can<br />
allow sun to damage trunk. Keep lower<br />
trunks shaded. If trees are pruned up,<br />
they will sucker profusely to shade them-<br />
Above left: The distinctive<br />
bark of Melaleuca<br />
quinquenervia, cajeput tree.<br />
Above: Olea europaea,<br />
olive.<br />
Trees u 57
Below: Parkinsonia<br />
hybrid ÔDesert<br />
MuseumÕ, Desert<br />
Museum palo verde.<br />
Below left: Parkinsonia<br />
floridum, blue<br />
palo verde.<br />
Below right: Olneya<br />
tesota, desert ironwood.<br />
selves. (Pull off suckers rather than pruning<br />
them.) Olives accept almost any soil,<br />
endure heat, cold and wind. Native to the<br />
Mediterranean.<br />
Olneya tesota<br />
20°<br />
desert ironwood<br />
Just as olive trees create a focal point in<br />
the landscape, desert ironwood possesses<br />
a similar presence, with gray-green foliage<br />
and gray trunks with real character.<br />
Lavender, pealike flowers give trees<br />
an otherworldly glow in April and May,<br />
attracting bees in abundance. Slow growing<br />
from 25 to 30 feet high and as wide. It<br />
requires some patience but the reward of a<br />
quality, long-lived tree is worth the wait.<br />
Sharp thorns on branches can be a safety<br />
hazard near walkways as well as when<br />
pruning trees. Requires well-drained soil.<br />
Native to the Sonoran Desert.<br />
Parkinsonia species<br />
Palo Verde<br />
(Cercidium species). These American desert<br />
natives provide a definite personality to<br />
the landscape. They are easily recognized<br />
due to their blue-green to green bark, naturally<br />
occurring multiple trunks and graceful<br />
elegance. Most are wide spreading from<br />
25 to 35 feet with a similar height, which<br />
varies according to the species, moisture,<br />
and soil type. Masses of yellow flowers<br />
cover the trees in April and early May. All<br />
tolerate extremes of heat, sun, and soils,<br />
although they do best well-drained soils.<br />
Parkinsonia floridum<br />
10°<br />
blue palo verde<br />
Blue palo verde is one of the most colorful<br />
desert trees. The strong, multitrunk<br />
form grows rapidly, developing a spreading<br />
canopy to 35 feet high and 30 feet<br />
wide, producing filtered shade. Luxuriant,<br />
golden yellow flowers appear in profusion<br />
March into April. Bark is a striking bluish<br />
green. With age, main trunk darkens<br />
to brown. Encourage its natural, angular<br />
form and avoid pruning heavily at any one<br />
time, which can interrupt growth patterns.<br />
Native to the Sonoran Desert.<br />
Parkinsonia<br />
microphylla<br />
little leaf palo verde,<br />
10°<br />
foothills palo verde<br />
Bark is lime-green. It grows slowly to 20<br />
feet high, with a smaller, stiffer appear-<br />
58 u Success with Desert Plants
ance than Parkinsonia floridum. Tree is<br />
semideciduous—leaflets drop in cold or<br />
drought. Yellow flowers appear April into<br />
May. Slow growth rate can be accelerated<br />
by supplying additional moisture. Twiggy<br />
growth and low canopy provide shelter<br />
for wildlife. Ideal background tree or for<br />
screening. After young trees are established,<br />
electively thin branches to show<br />
off interesting trunk structure. Makes an<br />
excellent small patio tree with character.<br />
Native to Arizona and Baja California.<br />
Parkinsonia hybrid<br />
‘Desert Museum’<br />
desert museum<br />
15°<br />
palo verde<br />
This superior Parkinsonia is a result of<br />
hybridizing work involving P. floridum,<br />
P microphyllum and P. aculeata, Mexican<br />
palo verde. This work was performed<br />
at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum<br />
in Tucson. Growth pattern of thornless<br />
ascending branches produces a sturdy<br />
structure and strong vertical form. Mature<br />
height is 25 feet to 30 feet with 20-foot<br />
spread. Flowers are rich yellow. The main<br />
bloom occurs during spring, although it<br />
flowers sporadically during summer with<br />
supplemental irrigation. Plant in deep soil.<br />
Parkinsonia praecox<br />
palo brea,<br />
25°<br />
sonoran palo verde<br />
Grows slowly into a 15- to 25-foot tree.<br />
Vivid yellow flower clusters bloom in<br />
April into May. Palo brea has a more<br />
upright structure and thornier branches<br />
than other Parkinsonia species, with distinctive,<br />
sculptural, angular branches. Bark<br />
on trunks and branches remains green,<br />
even as tree ages. Occasional deep watering<br />
improves appearance. Native to southern<br />
Sonora, Mexico.<br />
Phoenix dactilyfera<br />
20°<br />
date palm<br />
These trees are large and picturesque,<br />
plus they produce tasty fruit, but they are<br />
not the right choice for a small garden<br />
or home. Plants grow slowly but when<br />
mature, they reach up to 60 feet high with<br />
a trunk 2 to 3 feet in diameter. Young<br />
trees need space, the fronds spreading<br />
to 25 feet across. Near the trunk, the<br />
bases of the feather-shaped leaves have<br />
stout thorns. Requires moderate watering<br />
throughout summer for trees to look<br />
their best. Be aware that fruit drop can<br />
be messy, especially around pools and<br />
patios. Native to northern Africa.<br />
Above left: Parkinsonia<br />
floridum, blue palo<br />
verde.<br />
Above right: Parkinsonia<br />
praecox, palo brea.<br />
Above: Phoenix<br />
dactilyfera, date palm.<br />
Trees u 59
Above top: Pinus<br />
eldarica, Afghan pine.<br />
Above right: Pinus<br />
pinea, Italian stone<br />
pine.<br />
Above: Pistacia chinensis,<br />
Chinese pistachio.<br />
60 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
Pinus species<br />
Pine<br />
Pines can be grown successfully in the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, as long as adapted species<br />
are selected. Some pines can become<br />
quite large, so exercise caution when<br />
choosing trees for residential-scale landscapes.<br />
Pines evoke a feeling of the mountains<br />
and create a cooling mood, but it is<br />
challenging to blend them with other arid<br />
land plants.<br />
Pinus eldarica<br />
afghan pine,<br />
10°<br />
mondale pine<br />
(P. brutia). Rapid pyramidal growth from<br />
30 to 40 feet high and to 25 feet wide.<br />
Accepts heat, severe wind, cold and a variety<br />
of soils. In well drained soil, roots are<br />
better able to penetrate, allowing for deep<br />
rooting and more prolific growth. Use as<br />
an attractive, dense windscreen or featured<br />
landscape tree. Tolerates windy conditions.<br />
Native to Afghanistan.<br />
Similar in appearance is P. halepensis,<br />
Aleppo pine. Native to the hills of<br />
Lebanon, Aleppo pine often suffers from<br />
spider mites, and generally does not tolerate<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> conditions long term<br />
as well as the Afghan pine.<br />
Pinus pinea<br />
5°<br />
italian stone pine<br />
This pine is broadly conical when young,<br />
then becomes spreading and flat-topped<br />
(shaped like an umbrella) as it ages. Mature<br />
size is 25 to 40 feet high, spreading to 25<br />
feet wide. Grows at a slow to moderate<br />
rate. Picturesque trunk and branch structure<br />
develop over time. Needles are bright<br />
green. This tree produces the edible pignolia<br />
nut. Native to southern Europe.<br />
Pistacia chinensis<br />
chinese pistachio<br />
Moderate growing, long-lived tree from<br />
30 to 40 feet high with a broad-spreading<br />
canopy that produces dense shade.<br />
Deciduous, with bright green, compound<br />
leaves that turn intense crimson colors<br />
in fall months. Accepts a wide variety of
adverse conditions. Does best with periodic<br />
deep soaking of soil around the root<br />
zone. Native to China.<br />
Pistacia lentiscus<br />
15°<br />
evergreen pistachio<br />
A slow growing, wide-spreading, evergreen<br />
tree, reaching 15 to 20 feet high<br />
with a spread to 30 feet wide. The dense,<br />
attractive, bluish green foliage makes this<br />
a highly useful background tree or screen.<br />
Flowers are inconspicuous. Tolerates<br />
drought, heat and salty soils. Native to the<br />
Mediterranean.<br />
Pithecellobium<br />
flexicaule<br />
10°<br />
texas ebony<br />
(Newly reclassified as Ebanopsis ebano.)<br />
The dense, dark green leaves and spiny<br />
twigs of Texas ebony can develop into<br />
a great security barrier. Even without a<br />
utilitarian use in mind, its picturesque<br />
form makes this a desirable tree for a small<br />
garden. Avoid planting near walkways or<br />
other pedestrian traffic areas due to its<br />
small, sharp thorns. A slow grower, the<br />
mature height is 20 to 30 feet with a spread<br />
of 15 to 20 feet, but this will take many<br />
years. Fragrant, cream-colored flowers add<br />
color in late spring, they are followed by<br />
large, decorative, woody, brown seed pods.<br />
Grows in almost any well-drained soil.<br />
Native to Texas and New Mexico.<br />
Pithecellobium<br />
mexicanum<br />
15°<br />
mexican ebony<br />
(Newly reclassified as Havardia mexicana.)<br />
Lovely, smooth, gray bark and a<br />
naturally rounded form make this a great<br />
addition to the landscape. A moderately<br />
fast grower, reaching around 30 feet high<br />
and as wide but usually less in a low desert<br />
climate. Its fine-textured, gray-green<br />
foliage is cold deciduous. Creamy yellow<br />
puffball flowers appear in spring, followed<br />
by ornate woody brown pods. Best when<br />
planted in well drained soil. Native to<br />
Sonora and Baja California.<br />
Pittosporum<br />
Top left: Pistacia<br />
lentiscus, evergreen<br />
pistachio.<br />
Above left:<br />
Pithecellobium<br />
flexicaule, Texas ebony.<br />
Above: Pithecellobium<br />
mexicanum, Mexican<br />
ebony.<br />
Trees u 61
Below and below center<br />
(top): Prosopis glandulosa<br />
var. glandulosa, honey<br />
mesquite.<br />
Below center (bottom):<br />
Prunus cerasifera ÔKrauter<br />
VesuviusÕ, purple plum.<br />
Below right: Pittosporum<br />
phillyraeoides,<br />
willow pittosporum.<br />
phillyraeoides<br />
Prosopis chilensis<br />
20° 15°<br />
willow pittosporum<br />
chilean mesquite<br />
This is a handsome, evergreen tree, reaching<br />
15 to 20 feet high, spreading 10 to 15 ity to provide fast shade and screening.<br />
This mesquite is admired for its abil-<br />
feet wide. Moderate growth rate. Light, Young trees need staking and adequate<br />
gray-green, ribbony leaves to 4 inches ties to help support heavy top growth.<br />
long “weep” downward. Makes a fine vertical<br />
accent. Stake young trees to provide growth at any one time to prevent sunburn<br />
Thin no more than 20 percent of interior<br />
a straight start. Small, fragrant, yellow damage. Do not plant within 15 feet of<br />
flowers bloom late winter to early spring. walls because roots tend to be shallow.<br />
Native to Australia.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> deep and wide to encourage deep,<br />
extensive root system that will help trees<br />
stand up to strong winds. Moderate thorns.<br />
Prosopis species<br />
Avoid planting near pools because litter<br />
can be a problem throughout the year.<br />
Mesquite<br />
Native to Chile.<br />
Mesquites offer quite a lot to <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> gardeners. Their size, form, color<br />
and texture are in tune with the desert,<br />
helping provide a suitable sense of place.<br />
In fact, native mesquites are excellent for<br />
residential landscapes. Their quick rate<br />
of growth, cooling, sheltering shade and<br />
low maintenance make mesquites natural<br />
choices. In recent years, the number of<br />
selections available to home gardeners has<br />
increased. Each has special merit.<br />
Prosopis glandulosa<br />
var. glandulosa<br />
0°<br />
honey mesquite<br />
Less rigid in growth form than other mesquites,<br />
honey mesquite has a graceful,<br />
slightly weeping form that closely resembles<br />
Schinus molle, California pepper. (See<br />
page 66.) It grows at a moderate rate from<br />
15 to 30 feet high with an equal spread.<br />
Young branches are thorny. Small, bright<br />
green leaves are deciduous (leaves drop<br />
in winter). Naturally deep-rooted. Native<br />
62 u Success with Desert Plants
to Chihuahuan Desert, and as far north as<br />
Oklahoma.<br />
Prosopis<br />
hybrid ‘Phoenix’<br />
15°<br />
‘phoenix’ mesquite<br />
A hybrid with a number of parents, this<br />
new cultivar grows quickly but not excessively<br />
so, reaching 30 feet high and as<br />
wide. Features the dense green foliage of<br />
Argentine mesquite, but without thorns,<br />
and with the deep-rooting characteristic of<br />
honey mesquite.<br />
Prosopis velutina<br />
15°<br />
velvet mesquite<br />
This native mesquite grows to 30 feet<br />
high with an equal spread. Foliage is a<br />
velvety gray-green, and semideciduous.<br />
Seed pods are edible and were a staple<br />
food of natives. Young branches have<br />
small thorns that become less abundant<br />
with maturity. With age, trunks take on a<br />
gnarled and shaggy appearance, resulting<br />
in trees of great character. Young trees<br />
are slow growing and character is more<br />
shrublike. Additional water will increase<br />
size and growth rate. Native to southeastern<br />
Arizona into Texas.<br />
Prunus caroliniana<br />
‘Bright ‘n Tight’<br />
20°<br />
cherry laurel<br />
This is a specially selected strain of<br />
Carolina laurel cherry, with tight, compact<br />
growth 8 to 20 feet high. Glossy, deep<br />
green, evergreen leaves on an upright plant<br />
that can be either a small multi-trunked<br />
tree or large shrub. Small creamy white<br />
flowers in March are followed by blackish<br />
red berries that birds enjoy. Pick a location<br />
with afternoon shade in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>, and don’t plant in saline or alkaline<br />
soils. Hybrid of parents native to southern<br />
Appalachia.<br />
Prunus cerasifera<br />
‘Krauter Vesuvius’<br />
0°<br />
purple plum<br />
Open, rounded, tree 10 to 15 feet high,<br />
with a rounded crown spreading to 10<br />
feet wide. Admired for its striking, dark<br />
purple, almost black foliage. Deciduous.<br />
Pink flowers bloom in spring. May bear<br />
fruit in summer. Avoid planting in windy<br />
locations. Best where it will receive afternoon<br />
shade. Hybrid of parents native to the<br />
Mediterranean.<br />
Below left: Prosopis velutina,<br />
velvet mesquite.<br />
Below: Prosopis chilensis,<br />
Chilean mesquite.<br />
Trees u 63
Below: Quercus<br />
virginiana, southern<br />
live oak.<br />
Bottom left: Punica granatum,<br />
pomegranate.<br />
Bottom right: Quercus<br />
ilex, holly oak.<br />
Punica granatum<br />
10°<br />
pomegranate<br />
This is a deciduous small tree or shrub<br />
12 to 20 feet high and to 15 feet wide.<br />
Well-adapted to the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
Pomegranate has much to recommend it:<br />
bright green leaves, large, ruby flowers,<br />
healthy fruit, plus golden yellow fall foliage.<br />
With time, becomes a great hedge and<br />
security barrier plant. Prune when dormant<br />
in winter. High-water use in summer if<br />
fruit is the goal (See page 147). Otherwise,<br />
supply moderate water. Does well in alkaline<br />
soils. Accepts some shade. Native to<br />
southern Asia.<br />
Many cultivars are available: ‘Chico’,<br />
dwarf carnation-flowered pomegranate,<br />
grows to 8 feet high. ‘Legrellei’ grows 6<br />
feet to 8 feet high, and has double creamy<br />
flowers with coral-red stripes. ‘Nana’,<br />
dwarf pomegranate, is more evergreen<br />
with dense growth to 3 feet high. It’s<br />
a dependable performer with orange-red,<br />
single flowers and small, dry, red fruit.<br />
‘Wonderful’ grows to 10 feet high, has<br />
orange-red, 4-inch flowers and sweet fruit.<br />
Quercus species<br />
Oak<br />
Oaks are not the trees that spring to mind<br />
when one thinks of a landscape for the<br />
desert, but these rough and tough trees<br />
will accept the heat, drought, winds and<br />
occasional cold. They take what the desert<br />
dishes out, and with a deep soak once a<br />
month in summer, provide the homeowner<br />
with a large, stately tree.<br />
Quercus agrifolia<br />
california coastal<br />
10°<br />
live oak<br />
Large, round-headed, evergreen tree 30<br />
to 50 feet high. Fire-resistant rough, dark<br />
brown bark on broadly spreading, picturesque<br />
branches that may spread wider<br />
than the tree is tall. Dark green, hollylike<br />
leaves. Best adapted to Palm Springs<br />
area near foothills and canyons. Native to<br />
coastal southern California.<br />
64 u Success with Desert Plants
Quercus ilex<br />
10°<br />
holly oak<br />
Excellent, medium-sized evergreen tree<br />
from 20 to 30 feet high with equal spread.<br />
A multitude of small, medium green, finely<br />
toothed, hollylike leaves provide dense<br />
shade. Planted in a row, holly oak makes a<br />
good hedge. Planted singly, it is a refined<br />
and elegant specimen. Tolerates lawn<br />
planting. Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
Quercus suber<br />
10°<br />
cork oak<br />
An evergreen tree with broad, rounded<br />
crown that produces deep shade. Moderate<br />
growth from 25 to 40 feet high with a short<br />
trunk. Leaves are lustrous, dark green<br />
above, grayish beneath. Pale, thick and<br />
deeply furrowed, corky bark adds close-up<br />
interest. In certain regions of the world, it<br />
is harvested as cork for commercial use.<br />
Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
Quercus virginiana<br />
0°<br />
southern live oak<br />
A quality evergreen tree that grows 50 to<br />
60 feet high with an equal spread. Best performance<br />
in well-drained soil. Thrives on<br />
deep irrigation. ‘Heritage’ is an improved<br />
selection, proven to be adapted to desert<br />
heat and wind. Grows rapidly, producing<br />
impressive branches and trunk. Native to<br />
southeastern U.S.<br />
Q. fusiformis, escarpment live oak, is<br />
also recommended. It is very similar to<br />
southern live oak.<br />
Rhapis excelsa<br />
20°<br />
slender lady palm<br />
An exceptionally decorative and rare palm,<br />
lady palm forms dense clumps of many<br />
individual stems 6 to 8 feet high. Fronds<br />
are palmate. Best growth in bright, indirect<br />
light and nutrient-rich soil; it responds to<br />
applications of fertilizer. Good specimen<br />
plant in filtered shade near a pool, or in<br />
tubs or planters indoors. Native to Japan.<br />
Rhus lancea<br />
10°<br />
african sumac<br />
A dense, wide-spreading, evergreen tree<br />
with a slight, weeping or drooping growth<br />
Bottom left: Quercus<br />
suber, cork oak.<br />
Bottom right: Rhus lancea,<br />
African sumac.<br />
Trees u 65
Above: Sophora<br />
secundiflora, Texas<br />
mountain laurel.<br />
Above right: Trachycarpus<br />
fortunii, windmill palm.<br />
66 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
habit. Mature trees 20 to 25 feet high may<br />
spread to 40 feet or more. A workable tree<br />
for a small garden but it produces a great<br />
deal of litter throughout the year. Reddish<br />
stems and shiny, medium green leaves are<br />
borne in three slender leaflets. Female<br />
plants produce tan to reddish berries in<br />
clusters. Avoid heavy pruning at a single<br />
session. Some people are allergic to all<br />
parts of the tree. Native to South Africa.<br />
Schinus molle<br />
20°<br />
california pepper<br />
A fast-growing, medium-sized evergreen<br />
tree from 30 to 40 feet high. It has a<br />
round-headed form with graceful, weeping<br />
branches and feathery, bright green foliage.<br />
Small, rose-colored berries hang in<br />
clusters on branches in fall. Low to moderate<br />
water use, depending on soil type.<br />
Branches of older trees are prone to breakage<br />
in strong winds. Originally native to<br />
Peruvian Andes, trees were brought to<br />
the early California missions by Spanish<br />
monks.<br />
10°<br />
Sophora secundiflora<br />
texas mountain laurel<br />
Small tree or large shrub from 10 to 15<br />
feet high and as wide, with glossy green,<br />
evergreen leaves. Clusters of purple, wisteria-like<br />
flowers bloom in spring and<br />
perfume the air with a delightful fragrance.<br />
Attractive, grayish white seed pods contain<br />
red seeds that are poisonous. Plants<br />
have overall great tolerance for desert<br />
climates. Accepts almost any well-drained<br />
soil. Restrained, compact growth requires<br />
minimal pruning. Native to Texas.<br />
Trachycarpus fortunii<br />
10°<br />
windmill palm<br />
A superior, middle-sized palm with fanshaped<br />
leaves that radiate like a windmill<br />
from its compact crown. The trunk is<br />
naturally shaggy with hairy black fibers<br />
and old leaf bases. Do not remove these<br />
as it harms the plant. Grows slowly 15 to<br />
25 feet high, spreading 6 to 8 feet wide.<br />
Trunks can be 1 foot in diameter. This<br />
palm does best with afternoon shade, and<br />
does not tolerate reflected sun such as near<br />
a pool. Give regular applications of water<br />
and fertilizer during the warm months.<br />
Due to its smaller stature, can be planted<br />
in atriums, entryways and even in large<br />
containers. Native to China.
Ulmus parvifolia<br />
evergreen elm,<br />
20°<br />
little leaf elm<br />
This broad, umbrella-shaped tree quickly<br />
reaches to 35 feet high and as wide. Plant<br />
is semi-evergreen, dropping its small,<br />
dark green leaves and regrowing them<br />
over several months from winter to early<br />
spring. Bark is attractive mottled tan and<br />
brown. <strong>Water</strong> deeply to avoid shallow<br />
roots, which can become unsightly (even<br />
hazardous) on the soil surface. Native to<br />
China.<br />
Vitex agnus-castus<br />
10°<br />
chaste tree<br />
Long-lived and slow growing, this small<br />
deciduous tree can take the heat. Narrow<br />
leaves produce a spicy fragrance when<br />
crunched underfoot after they drop from<br />
branches in fall. Grow as a large shrub or<br />
small tree 15 to 25 feet high and as wide.<br />
Many cultivars are available. Depending<br />
on the selection, lavender, blue or white<br />
spikes of flowers bloom in summer. They<br />
attract butterflies. Cold hardiness also<br />
depends on cultivar seed source. Native to<br />
southern Europe.<br />
Washingtonia filifera<br />
15°<br />
california fan palm<br />
This is the only palm native to California,<br />
growing naturally in Palm Canyon and<br />
other canyons in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
Trunks can become massive, often reaching<br />
3-1/2 feet in diameter. Large fronds are<br />
borne on long leaf stems; the leaves are<br />
fringed with coarse white hairs. Accepts the<br />
desert heat but younger plants prefer some<br />
shade. Slower growing than Washingtonia<br />
robusta (see below), reaching a mature<br />
height of 35 to 40 feet. Provide occasional<br />
deep watering.<br />
Washingtonia robusta<br />
20°<br />
mexican fan palm<br />
(Washingtonia gracilis). This native of Baja<br />
California is similar to California fan<br />
palm, but its trunk is more slender, usually<br />
15 to 18 inches in diameter. It has a faster<br />
growth rate compared to W. filifera. Fronds<br />
are smaller with shorter stems and fewer<br />
filaments. Mexican fan palm becomes a<br />
skyline tree, reaching 50 to 75 feet high.<br />
Group only with own species in clumps<br />
of plants that are of staggered heights.<br />
Provide occasional deep watering.<br />
Above left: Vitex agnuscastus,<br />
chaste tree.<br />
Above center: Washingtonia<br />
filifera, California fan palm.<br />
Above: Washingtonia<br />
robusta, Mexican fan palm.<br />
Trees u 67
S H R U B S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Shrubs are similar to trees in that<br />
they serve many landscape functions.<br />
Use them as specimens, accent plants,<br />
group plantings, borders, hedges,<br />
screens, barriers, backdrops and<br />
foundation plantings. Shrubs provide<br />
shade, fruit, habitat and food for wildlife.<br />
People enjoy their fragrance and<br />
culinary use, as well as their<br />
seasonal color and interest.<br />
Shrubs are smaller and lower growing<br />
compared to trees, so we see them<br />
in greater detail. Shrubs help bring the<br />
landscape scale down to human scale.<br />
Although many shrubs have beautiful<br />
flowers, some last for just a short<br />
while. Select shrubs for their shape,<br />
form, texture, foliage, branching habits<br />
and the substance and utility they add<br />
to your landscape.<br />
68 u Success with Desert Plants
Abutilon palmerii<br />
desert abutilon,<br />
25°<br />
indian mallow<br />
Grows up to 5 feet high and as wide with<br />
an upright and open form. Velvety heartshaped<br />
leaves and flowers like hollyhocks<br />
lend an almost tropical quality. Plants<br />
tolerate hot, dry conditions but soak the<br />
root zone every week or so in summer to<br />
maintain appearance. Appreciates afternoon<br />
shade. Much less water is needed<br />
in the cool seasons of the year. Native to<br />
Sonoran Desert.<br />
Alyogyne huegelii<br />
25°<br />
blue hibiscus<br />
An attractive member of the mallow family,<br />
this plant grows to 5 feet high and<br />
spreads to 4 feet wide. It can also be<br />
pruned to become a small tree. Blue-purple<br />
flowers bloom from spring into fall, the<br />
individual blooms lasting two to three<br />
days. Does best in afternoon shade or on<br />
the north side of a building. Pinching back<br />
branches can increase flowering, but avoid<br />
shearing or topiary pruning. If damaged by<br />
frost, wait until spring to prune damaged<br />
branches. Accepts container culture, and<br />
must have well drained soils. Keep in mind<br />
that the dark green leaves are covered with<br />
tiny hairs that can irritate sensitive skin.<br />
‘Santa Cruz’ produces an attractive, deep<br />
blue flower. Native to coastal southwestern<br />
Australia.<br />
Ambrosia deltoidea<br />
20°<br />
triangle leaf bursage<br />
This small evergreen shrub is primarily<br />
used for revegetation and erosion control.<br />
It reaches 1 to 2 feet high and as wide, with<br />
a naturally rounded form, featuring silvery<br />
gray foliage. Moderately rapid growth.<br />
Once established it can survive with only<br />
an occasional watering, but better appearance<br />
with summer waterings. Flowers are<br />
small and insignificant. A relative of ragweed,<br />
some people are allergic to its pollen.<br />
Native to southern Arizona.<br />
Anisacanthus species<br />
0°<br />
desert honeysuckle<br />
Two Anisacanthus species share the<br />
common name of desert honeysuckle.<br />
Hummingbirds and butterflies flock to the<br />
Below left: Abutilon<br />
palmerii, desert abutilon,<br />
indian mallow.<br />
Below center:<br />
Anisacanthus species,<br />
desert honeysuckle.<br />
Below right: Ambrosia<br />
deltoidea, triangle leaf<br />
bursage.<br />
Below: Alyogyne<br />
huegelii, blue hibiscus.<br />
Shrubs u 69
Above left: Caesalpinia mexicana,<br />
Mexican bird<br />
of paradise.<br />
Above right: Atriplex canescens,<br />
fourwing<br />
saltbush.<br />
Above: Buddleia<br />
marrubifolia, woolly<br />
butterfly bush.<br />
tubular, nectar-filled flowers of both species.<br />
Plants are semideciduous and excellent<br />
for wildlife habitats. Plants grow 3<br />
to 5 feet high and as wide with a natural,<br />
open form. Cut plants back to 12 inches in<br />
late winter for renewed growth in spring.<br />
Well-drained soil is necessary.<br />
Anisacanthus quadrifidus var. brevifolius<br />
‘Mexican Fire’ and A. quadrifidus var.<br />
wrightii ‘Mexican Flame’ are grown<br />
for their abundant orange flower clusters.<br />
Most flowering occurs midsummer until<br />
frost. Both are hardy to 10°F. Parents are<br />
native to Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
A. thurberi produces orange or yellow<br />
tubular flowers that bloom in spring and<br />
summer. Hardy to 20°F. Native to Arizona<br />
and New Mexico.<br />
Atriplex canescens<br />
0°<br />
fourwing saltbush<br />
This plant is a “must” for the wildlife garden.<br />
Birds, especially native quail, appreciate<br />
the dense cover and edible seeds it<br />
provides. Silvery blue-green, evergreen<br />
leaves are actually covered with microscopic<br />
plates of white wax, which helps<br />
the plant conserve water. Plants reach 4 to<br />
8 feet high and as wide. Clusters of inconspicuous<br />
yellow flowers bloom in summer,<br />
and are followed by golden fruit pods with<br />
four wings on them. Well adapted to salty<br />
conditions, and effective for erosion control.<br />
Native to western North America.<br />
Buddleia marrubifolia<br />
-0°<br />
woolly butterfly bush<br />
Useful as a backdrop to perennial beds,<br />
the small, ball-shaped, yellow and orange<br />
flowers attract butterflies in summer.<br />
Grows to 5 feet high and as wide. The<br />
toothed, silvery gray, woolly leaves blend<br />
and contrast well with silver or green<br />
leaved plants such as brittlebush, lavender,<br />
red salvia and bougainvillea. Plant in soil<br />
with good drainage. Prune in late winter<br />
to control or renew plants. Native to the<br />
Chihuahuan Desert in Mexico.<br />
Buxus microphylla<br />
var. japonica<br />
0°<br />
japanese boxwood<br />
Boxwood grows to 6 feet high and as wide<br />
with a rounded form. It accepts shearing<br />
and is a favorite hedge or topiary plant.<br />
Leaves are small, round-tipped, bright<br />
green and have a musky odor. Accepts sun<br />
to partial shade. Native to Japan.<br />
‘Nana’ is evergreen and compact 2 to 4<br />
feet high.<br />
70 u Success with Desert Plants
Caesalpinia species<br />
Bird of Paradise<br />
These are tropical plants with bright green,<br />
feathery foliage. Leaves and branches can<br />
suffer frost damage below 30°F. The roots<br />
can tolerate temperatures into at least the<br />
upper teens. If healthy before a freeze,<br />
plants recover rapidly in spring, growing<br />
back bushier than ever. Wait until danger<br />
of frost has past in spring before pruning<br />
damaged branches.<br />
Caesalpinia gilliesii<br />
yellow bird<br />
5°<br />
of paradise<br />
Grows 6 feet high, with an equal spread.<br />
Foliage is sparse and feathery, with a<br />
growth habit that can become top heavy.<br />
Spikes of large, brilliant yellow flowers<br />
with showy red stamens are the payoff for<br />
growing this plant. Best used as a background<br />
behind smaller, fuller plants to hide<br />
the bare lower stems. Provides color late<br />
spring to fall. Accepts shade. Tolerant of<br />
almost any soil. Native to Argentina.<br />
Caesalpinia mexicana<br />
mexican bird<br />
18°<br />
of paradise<br />
This yellow-flowering species has recently<br />
become available. It grows rapidly to 10<br />
feet high and as wide. The bloom season<br />
comes on slightly later than red bird of<br />
paradise, and lasts later in the year. Foliage<br />
freezes at 28°F to 30°F, but healthy plants<br />
recover from the roots. Accepts some<br />
shade. Native to Mexico.<br />
Caesalpinia<br />
pulcherrima<br />
18°<br />
red bird of paradise<br />
Brilliant red and yellow flowers bloom<br />
from early summer to fall. A splendid<br />
workhorse plant for the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
Typically grows 5 to 8 feet high, with finetextured,<br />
almost luxuriant leaves, but can<br />
get much larger in mild climates. Due to<br />
its stature and deciduous nature, use as a<br />
background plant. Accepts almost any soil<br />
but full sun is required. Cut stems back<br />
to about 18 inches after winter dormancy,<br />
prior to new spring growth. Native to the<br />
West Indies.<br />
Calliandra californica<br />
20°<br />
baja fairy duster<br />
The refined, dark green foliage of Baja<br />
fairy duster is attractive when combined<br />
with other natives or subtropical plants. It<br />
grows to 6 feet high and 4 to 5 feet wide<br />
with an open form. Red puffball flowers<br />
with long stamens bloom spring into fall;<br />
attracting hummingbirds. Prune lightly in<br />
Below left: Caesalpinia<br />
pulcherrima, red bird of<br />
paradise.<br />
Below right: Calliandra<br />
californica, Baja fairy duster.<br />
Below: Caesalpinia gilliesii,<br />
yellow bird of paradise.<br />
Shrubs u 71
Above left: Calliandra eriophylla,<br />
fairy duster.<br />
Above right: Callistemon<br />
viminalis ÔLittle JohnÕ,<br />
little John bottlebrush.<br />
Above: Calliandra haematocephala,<br />
pink powder<br />
puff.<br />
late spring to encourage a fuller plant from<br />
the ground up. If growth becomes excessive,<br />
decrease water. Plant in soil with<br />
good drainage. Native to Baja California.<br />
Calliandra eriophylla<br />
10°<br />
fairy duster<br />
Produces pinkish red flower clusters in<br />
the spring, complemented nicely by its<br />
refined foliage. Mature height and spread<br />
is 2 to 3 feet. Similar to Calliandra californica,<br />
but its growth habit is typically more<br />
controlled. Graceful and airy, it is ideal<br />
in a natural garden design. Pruning back<br />
branches slightly may help create more<br />
fullness. Allow plants to grow naturally<br />
and they will produce more flowers. A low<br />
water-use plant that prefers full sun and<br />
well drained soil. Native to Sonoran and<br />
Chihuahuan Deserts.<br />
Calliandra<br />
haematocephala<br />
30°<br />
pink powder puff<br />
A desirable, hospitable evergreen for an<br />
unusual accent planting or trained along<br />
a wall. Accepts some shade. Grows in<br />
a sprawling form to 10 feet high and as<br />
wide. In winter, a profusion of bright,<br />
red-pink stamens shaped like huge powder<br />
puffs contrast with rich green, compound<br />
leaves. Attracts hummingbirds. Plant in<br />
well-drained soil. Native to Bolivia.<br />
Callistemon viminalis<br />
‘Little John’<br />
little john<br />
20°<br />
bottlebrush<br />
The species Callistemon viminalis,<br />
described on page 50, is a commonly<br />
grown tree. ‘Little John’ is an attractive<br />
shrub to 3 feet high and as wide. The narrow,<br />
light green leaves grow up to 6 inches<br />
long. Profuse numbers of red bottlebrush<br />
flowers bloom fall into spring. They attract<br />
butterflies and hummingbirds. Acidify the<br />
soil on a quarterly schedule to prevent<br />
chlorosis and to encourage more flowers.<br />
A hybrid of Australian parents.<br />
Carissa grandiflora<br />
26°<br />
natal plum<br />
(C. macrocarpa). This commonly grown<br />
shrub reaches up to 7 feet high and as wide.<br />
Leaves are an intense deep green, densely<br />
arranged on unique, tight, short branches.<br />
72 u Success with Desert Plants
Makes a suitable hedge but spines can be a<br />
hazard. Protect from frost by locating in a<br />
warm microclimate such as the south side<br />
of a building under a wide overhang. It<br />
accepts some shade. Fragrant white flowers<br />
are followed by red or purple fruit—as<br />
long as plants are not pruned excessively.<br />
Native to South Africa.<br />
‘Boxwood Beauty’ has a compact, shrubby<br />
form, growing to 2 feet high. ‘Fancy’<br />
has outstanding fruiting qualities and boldly<br />
branching, upright growth to 6 feet<br />
high. ‘Green Carpet’ has dense growth to<br />
1-1/2 feet high. Its spreading habit makes<br />
it exceptionally good as a ground cover.<br />
Foliage is lush and resembles a carpet of<br />
green. ‘Tuttlei’ has a more upright form to<br />
2 to 3 feet high. It has a spreading, tightbranching<br />
growth habit enhanced by its<br />
rich green foliage.<br />
Celtis pallida<br />
18°<br />
desert hackberry<br />
From a distance, the overall impact of this<br />
shrub is a dense, medium green, rounded<br />
form to 8 feet high and 10 feet wide.<br />
Up close, the spines reveal themselves.<br />
Fragrant yellow flowers bloom in spring,<br />
followed by orange berries in fall. The<br />
dense growth and spines, combined with<br />
highly edible berries, make this a favorite<br />
nesting place for many desert birds. In<br />
the landscape, desert hackberry makes a<br />
wonderful informal hedge, screen or ideal<br />
backdrop for showier plants. It can also<br />
be used for erosion control. Extra water in<br />
spring and summer promotes more flowers<br />
and fall fruit. Native to sandy soil locations<br />
from west Texas into Arizona.<br />
Cleome isomeris<br />
25°<br />
bladderbush<br />
(Isomeris arborea). This 4- to 6-foot shrub<br />
has light green foliage and bright yellow,<br />
snapdragonlike flowers borne in clusters<br />
at the tips of branches. Flowers are a<br />
great source of nectar for bees and hummingbirds.<br />
After flowers complete bloom,<br />
inflated green capsules develop with seeds<br />
inside. Plants blend well with Encelia farinosa,<br />
Aniscanthus species and Salvia greggii.<br />
Easy to grow from seed sown directly<br />
in place. Well-drained soil is important.<br />
Avoid overwatering during its summer<br />
dormancy. Native to the western Mojave<br />
Desert.<br />
Above left: Celtis pallida,<br />
desert hackberry.<br />
Below left: Carissa<br />
grandiflora ÕTutteliÕ,<br />
natal plum.<br />
Above: Cleome isomeris,<br />
bladderbush.<br />
Shrubs u 73
Below left: Cordia boissieri,<br />
Texas olive.<br />
Below right: Cordia parvifolia,<br />
little-leaf<br />
cordia.<br />
Below: Cuphea llavea,<br />
bat-faced cuphea.<br />
Cocculus laurifolius<br />
26°<br />
laurel-leaf cocculus<br />
Glistening leathery leaves to 6 inches long<br />
on graceful, arching branches make this<br />
upright, evergreen shrub a desirable addition<br />
to the landscape. Develops slowly to<br />
25 feet high. Accepts pruning well. Good<br />
cut foliage for arrangements. Accepts some<br />
sun but better with eastern exposure (afternoon<br />
shade) or in partial shade beneath<br />
canopy trees. Native to Himalayas.<br />
Cordia boissieri<br />
20°<br />
texas olive<br />
This superior shrub has blue-green, leathery<br />
leaves and clusters of white flowers<br />
to 2-1/2 inches wide. Grows 10 to<br />
12 feet high and spreads to 10 feet<br />
wide. Generally a warm-season bloomer,<br />
however, flowering extends into winter<br />
in the mild climate of the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>. Accepts partial shade. Prefers<br />
well-drained soil. Remove dead interior<br />
branches and lower branches for a small<br />
tree form. Native to Mexico and the Rio<br />
Grande <strong>Valley</strong> in Texas.<br />
Cordia parvifolia, little leaf cordia, is<br />
similar to C. boissieri but smaller in stature<br />
and texture with smaller leaves and<br />
white flowers 1 to 1-1/2 inches across.<br />
Plants grow 4 to 6 feet high with a similar<br />
spread. Form is more open and airy. They<br />
can become cold-deciduous below 20°F.<br />
Cuphea hyssopifolia<br />
false heather,<br />
28°<br />
mexican heather<br />
A compact shrub to 2 feet high and as<br />
wide. The tiny, bright green, needlelike<br />
leaves look similar to true heather. Small,<br />
starlike flowers in pink, purple or white<br />
appear for most of the warm season. Often<br />
grown as a seasonal hanging basket, it<br />
does better planted in the ground where<br />
roots appreciate the cooler temperatures.<br />
Plant in well-drained soil. Native to southern<br />
Mexico and Guatemala.<br />
Cuphea llavea<br />
20°<br />
bat-faced cuphea<br />
Small shrub to 2 feet high and 3 feet wide<br />
with crisp, dark green foliage. Blooms<br />
spring, summer and fall. Unusual red flowers<br />
with purple centers remind one of a<br />
bat’s face. Provide ample water during<br />
warm months, particularly if plants are<br />
located in full sun. Best with afternoon<br />
shade in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. A longerlived<br />
alternative to annuals in flowerbeds.<br />
Native to Mexico.<br />
74 u Success with Desert Plants
Cycas revoluta<br />
15°<br />
sago palm<br />
(Cycas ehrenbergia). A dwarf and compact,<br />
palmlike plant, with many, long, shining,<br />
dark green leaves. The leaves appear as if<br />
they’ve been waxed, growing as a crown<br />
on top of the short trunk. The thick, heavy<br />
stem in small plants resembles a pineapple.<br />
Makes a splendid specimen container plant<br />
or include in a grouping of similarly sized<br />
palms. Reaches choice height of 6 to 10<br />
feet high and 6 feet wide, but grows very<br />
slowly. Locate where plants receive partial<br />
filtered shade; protect first year with shade<br />
cloth to keep direct sun off plant. Native<br />
to Japan.<br />
Dalea frutescens<br />
0°<br />
black dalea<br />
One of the many valuable Dalea species.<br />
Compact to 3 feet high and 4 feet<br />
wide. Expect partial leaf drop in extreme<br />
cold or during drought. Rose-purple flowers<br />
put on a show in fall and winter<br />
when most plants have ceased blooming.<br />
Lightly prune, maintaining natural form, in<br />
spring. Plant in well-drained soil. ‘Sierra<br />
Negra’ has more prolific blooms. Native to<br />
Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Dalea pulchra<br />
indigo bush,<br />
5°<br />
bush dalea<br />
This shrub has contrasting, intertwining,<br />
silvery gray leaves with violet-blue flowers<br />
from late winter into spring. Grows 3<br />
to 5 feet high and up to 4 feet wide. Adds<br />
great interest when combined with other<br />
native desert plants. Best in full sun and<br />
in well-drained soil. Native to Arizona and<br />
northern Sonora, Mexico.<br />
Dodonaea viscosa<br />
10°<br />
hop bush<br />
A ruggedly handsome substitute for oleander,<br />
or wherever you need a vigorous,<br />
fast-growing shrub or screen. Reaches 10<br />
to 12 feet high and almost as wide, with<br />
bright green, evergreen leaves. Suitable<br />
as low windbreak or for screening. Space<br />
4 to 5 feet apart. Will accept some shade,<br />
and stands up to wind, heat and cold.<br />
Flowers are inconspicuous but are followed<br />
by showy, pale yellow seed pods<br />
that split and blow away—low litter.<br />
Lightly shape plants (avoid shearing), or<br />
allow them to develop their natural form.<br />
Native to Arizona.<br />
‘Purpurea’, purple hop bush, has bronzy<br />
purple leaves and is less hardy—to 20°F.<br />
Below left: Dodonaea<br />
viscosa, hop bush.<br />
Below center: Dalea<br />
pulchra, indigo bush.<br />
Below right: Dalea<br />
frutescens, black dalea.<br />
Below: Cycas revoluta,<br />
sago palm.<br />
Shrubs u 75
Below left: Eremophila<br />
maculata v. brevifolia,<br />
red eremophila.<br />
Below right: Ericameria<br />
laricifolia, turpentine bush.<br />
Below: Encelia farinosa,<br />
brittlebush.<br />
Encelia farinosa<br />
15°<br />
brittlebush, incienso<br />
Brittlebush is an abundant shrub in natural<br />
desert areas throughout the Sonoran<br />
and Mojave Deserts. It plays a versatile<br />
role in home gardens, particularly in<br />
natural designs with other native plants.<br />
Evergreen gray to light green leaves are<br />
soft and velvety to the touch, covering<br />
the 2- to 3-foot plants. Bright, yellow,<br />
daisylike flowers are borne on tall<br />
stems in profuse numbers well above the<br />
foliage in spring. After flowering has<br />
passed, cut plant back by one-third and<br />
water thoroughly for a repeat bloom.<br />
Little is required to grow them successfully:<br />
well-drained soil, low water and<br />
full sun. Does not need fertilizer. May<br />
die back to the ground during periods of<br />
drought, but generally comes back with<br />
moisture.<br />
Eremophila maculata<br />
v. brevifolia<br />
20°<br />
red eremophila<br />
An excellent choice for bright winter<br />
color. The dark gray leaves are virtually<br />
hidden by the brilliant red flowers January<br />
into March. The rest of the year, the symmetrical,<br />
4- by 4-foot, dark gray shrub<br />
blends with other silvery foliaged plants.<br />
Grows moderately fast and prefers well<br />
drained soils. Shear plants in April after<br />
blooming, but then not again if you want<br />
ideal bloom display.<br />
Also try Eremophila ‘Summertime Blue’<br />
for its lilac-blue flowers during summer.<br />
It also has an ability to grow in clay soils.<br />
Both are native to Australia.<br />
Ericameria laricifolia<br />
0°<br />
turpentine bush<br />
In the fall, the dense, fine-textured, dark<br />
green leaves of turpentine bush become<br />
76 u Success with Desert Plants
lanketed with bright yellow, daisylike<br />
flowers. The refined growth can develop<br />
into a shrub 2 to 3 feet high and as<br />
wide. Best used in masses or groups in<br />
out-of-the-way places, on slopes or in<br />
combination with other low-water use<br />
plants. Give the foliage a rub between<br />
your hands and you will smell the turpentine<br />
scent. Native to west Texas, New<br />
Mexico, Arizona and Mexico.<br />
Eriogonum fasciculatum<br />
v. poliofolium<br />
15°<br />
flattop buckwheat<br />
A low, rounded, evergreen shrub to 1<br />
1/2 feet high, spreading to 2 feet wide.<br />
Leaves are extremely fine textured—dark<br />
gray-green above, white and woolly<br />
below. This delicate foliage is virtually<br />
hidden in spring by 2-inch clusters of tiny<br />
white to pale pink flowers. Flowering<br />
begins in March and can continue into<br />
November if plants receive regular water.<br />
Seeds are loved by the lesser goldfinch<br />
and other birds. Pruning generally isn’t<br />
necessary. Does best in well drained<br />
soils—it is native to dry rocky slopes of<br />
southeastern California, and into Arizona<br />
and Nevada.<br />
Euonymus japonicus<br />
10°<br />
euonymus<br />
Fast-growing, upright shrub from 8 to 12<br />
feet high with large, shiny, deep green<br />
leaves. Needs regular moisture to maintain<br />
healthy, overall lush and vigorous appearance.<br />
Compact branching habit accepts<br />
shearing well. Native to Japan.<br />
‘Aureo-variegata’, gold spot euonymus,<br />
grows to 10 feet high and 6 feet wide.<br />
It has leaves blotched with yellow and<br />
well-defined, dark green margins. Best in<br />
partial shade. ‘Microphyllus Improved’,<br />
boxleaf euonymus, is a dwarf selection<br />
1 to 2 feet high. It is erect but compact<br />
with small, closely arranged, dark green<br />
leaves. Formal appearance that does not<br />
require pruning. Locate in full sun or partial<br />
shade.<br />
Fallugia paradoxa<br />
apache plume<br />
Apache plume grows 3 to 6 feet high and<br />
as wide. Admired for its graceful, airy,<br />
upright, angular branches covered with<br />
dark green leaves, as well as its flowers<br />
and seed heads. Flowers are 1 inch across<br />
and look similar to single rose blossoms.<br />
Seed heads that are silky pink plumes<br />
adorn plants from May to December. Adds<br />
Below left: Eriogonum<br />
fasciculatum<br />
v. poliofolium, flattop<br />
buckwheat.<br />
Below: Fallugia<br />
paradoxa, Apache<br />
plume.<br />
Shrubs u 77
Above: Fraxinus greggii,<br />
little leaf ash.<br />
Above right: Guaiacum<br />
coulteri, guayacan.<br />
long-term interest throughout the landscape.<br />
Deciduous in cold winters. Locate<br />
in full sun to partial shade. Well-drained<br />
soil essential. Native range extends from<br />
Utah to Texas south to Mexico.<br />
Feijoa sellowiana<br />
15°<br />
pineapple guava<br />
This is a fast growing, evergreen shrub,<br />
reaching 10 to 18 feet high. Gray-green<br />
leaves are attractive, as are the waxy white<br />
flowers with red stamens. Flower petals are<br />
edible and can be used in salads. Flowers<br />
bloom May through June and are followed<br />
by tasty fruit. Fruit quality and quantity is<br />
better in cooler climates, and when fruitproducing<br />
cultivars are grown. Accepts<br />
some shade. Native to South America.<br />
Fraxinus greggii<br />
10°<br />
little leaf ash<br />
Grows at a moderate rate to 10 feet high<br />
and up to 8 feet wide. Leaves are light<br />
green to gray-green; bark is gray. Can<br />
be trained to become a small tree with<br />
rounded head. Tolerates heat, alkaline<br />
soils and lawn situations. Native to canyon<br />
bottoms and steam sides, so does best<br />
with regular water. Inconspicuous spring<br />
flowers are pollinated by the wind. Ash<br />
are in the same family as olives, and their<br />
pollen is troublesome for some. Native<br />
from Arizona to Texas.<br />
Gardenia jasminoides<br />
20°<br />
gardenia<br />
(Gardenia angusta). Evergreen shrub 3 to 4<br />
feet high and as wide, grown for its famous,<br />
large, creamy white and extremely fragrant<br />
flowers. The flowers, framed by glossy<br />
green leaves, bloom April to October.<br />
Apply acidifying fertilizer monthly from<br />
March to September for best results. Good<br />
soil drainage is required. Prefers partial<br />
shade. Suited to containers. Native to<br />
China, Taiwan and Japan.<br />
‘Mystery’ is bushy and compact to 5 feet<br />
high. ‘Veitchi’, everblooming gardenia, is<br />
free-flowering, compact and upright to 3<br />
feet high.<br />
Grewia occidentalis<br />
26°<br />
lavender star flower<br />
Fast-growing, evergreen shrub to 6 feet<br />
high, spreading 4 to 5 feet wide. Dark<br />
green, 3-inch-long leaves serve as an<br />
excellent backdrop to the lavender, starshaped<br />
flowers that bloom late spring into<br />
fall. Tolerates wind. Do any major pruning<br />
in fall after bloom ceases. Accepts training<br />
as an espalier. Native to southern Africa.<br />
Guaiacum coulteri<br />
25°<br />
guayacan<br />
Intense, blue-purple flowers offer a startling<br />
splash of color against the rich, dark<br />
green foliage. Flowers appear in spring<br />
78 u Success with Desert Plants
and can last into midsummer if plants are<br />
given a little extra water. The leaves are<br />
composed of 6 to 10 tiny leaflets and are<br />
borne on twisted, crooked branches covered<br />
with smooth, pale gray bark. Prefers<br />
well drained soil. Accepts some shade.<br />
Susceptible to hard frosts, growing at a<br />
moderate rate to 6 feet high and as wide.<br />
In frost-free areas it can reach up to 10 feet<br />
high. Native to tropical deciduous thorn<br />
scrub of western Mexico.<br />
Hamelia patens<br />
scarlet bush,<br />
25°<br />
fire bush<br />
This fast growing shrub has fuzzy, 6-inch,<br />
gray-green leaves. In areas with frost,<br />
plants reach 5 feet high and as wide, but<br />
often remain smaller. In frost-free areas in<br />
the tropics they can reach an incredible 25<br />
feet. Clusters of orange-red, 3/4-inch tubular<br />
flowers bloom through summer with<br />
regular moisture. Flowers are followed by<br />
small dark fruit that are relished by birds.<br />
Needs good soil drainage, but tolerant of<br />
saline soils. Accepts some shade, but protect<br />
from wind and frost. Prune in fall after<br />
flowering has ceased. Native to southern<br />
Florida and Central America.<br />
Hibiscus rosa-sinensis<br />
40°<br />
hibiscus<br />
These subtropical flowering shrubs grow<br />
6 to 10 feet high, and bloom continuously<br />
during the warm season. Foliage varies<br />
but most have attractive, glossy, deep<br />
green leaves. Flowers come in a wide<br />
range of colors; many are multicolored<br />
with contrasting throats. Well-drained soils<br />
are a must. Locate plants where they’ll<br />
receive afternoon shade and wind protection.<br />
Prune in early spring, and pinch spent<br />
flowers through the flowering season to<br />
encourage more blooms. Hardy to 28°F<br />
to 40°F, depending on variety. Native to<br />
tropical areas around the world.<br />
Some common cultivars include:<br />
‘Agnes Gault’—large, single, bright,<br />
rose-pink flowers that are heavily veined<br />
with a pink and cranberry throat. Fastgrowing,<br />
vigorous plant. Prune to prevent<br />
legginess. ‘Butterfly’—vibrant, bright yellow,<br />
single flowers are produced in profusion<br />
on slow-growing, upright plants.<br />
‘Crown of Bohemia’—very full double<br />
flowers are magnificent golden yellow with<br />
deep orange-red throats, on upright plants<br />
to 5 feet high. ‘High Voltage’—large white<br />
flowers with contrasting magenta throats.<br />
‘Ross Estey’—extremely large single<br />
flowers with orange edges shading to<br />
glowing rose center. The ruffled and tufted<br />
flowers last about three days on plants.<br />
Vigorous growth to 8 feet high. ‘San Diego<br />
Red’—vivid, bright red single flowers in<br />
profuse numbers most of the year. ‘White<br />
Above left: Feijoa<br />
sellowiana, pineapple<br />
guava.<br />
Above center: Hamelia<br />
patens, scarlet bush.<br />
Above right: Hibiscus<br />
‘High Voltage’.<br />
Above: Hibiscus ‘Agnes<br />
Gault’.<br />
Shrubs u 79
Below right: Justicia<br />
spicigera, Mexican<br />
honeysuckle.<br />
Below center: Juniperus<br />
chinensis ÔTorulosaÕ,<br />
Hollywood juniper.<br />
Below: Hyptis emoryi,<br />
desert lavender.<br />
Wings’—heavy crop of attractive single<br />
flowers. White petals have a ruby eye in<br />
the center accented with a faint red vein<br />
in each petal. A vigorous plant, prune to<br />
control legginess.<br />
Hyptis emoryi<br />
15°<br />
desert lavender<br />
The wonderful lavender fragrance of all<br />
parts of this shrub make it an excellent<br />
addition to any garden. The powder gray<br />
foliage contrasts well with clusters of<br />
small violet-purple flowers that grace the<br />
bushes from spring through fall. They<br />
cling, dried on the stems, through the<br />
winter. Becomes an open, upright, vaseshaped,<br />
evergreen shrub, reaching 5 to 8<br />
feet high, eventually spreading as wide.<br />
Plants are winter dormant, and require no<br />
water during this season. Plant in the background<br />
for an excellent backdrop to perennials,<br />
wildflowers or other color plants.<br />
Does best in well drained soil. Native to<br />
Sonoran Desert.<br />
Ilex vomitoria<br />
‘Stokes Dwarf’<br />
10°<br />
dwarf yaupon<br />
Tiny, rich, dark green leaves are closely<br />
held on a dwarf plant from 2 to 3 feet<br />
high. Tolerates alkaline soils better than<br />
other hollies. Use as a border or low hedge.<br />
Accepts some shade. Native to southeastern<br />
United States.<br />
Juniperus chinensis<br />
0°<br />
juniper<br />
Junipers are available in many different<br />
sizes, forms, growth habits and foliage<br />
colors. Research carefully to get the plants<br />
you want to fit your use and site. Some<br />
will accept partial shade.<br />
‘Armstrongii’, Armstrong juniper, is a<br />
showy, compact, semi-erect conifer from<br />
4 to 5 feet high. Symmetrical with a closeknit<br />
growth habit. Attractive, medium<br />
green, lacy-textured foliage.<br />
‘Hetzii Columnaris’, a columnar juniper,<br />
is an attractive, bright green shrub, growing<br />
as a dense, 12- to 15-foot column.<br />
Sharp-pointed, needlelike leaves accept<br />
trimming well.<br />
‘Pfitzeriana’, Pfitzer juniper, has handsome,<br />
gray-green foliage. Sharp-needled<br />
leaves cover arching branches as plant<br />
develops into a showy, spreading shrub 6<br />
to 10 feet high and as wide. Its form creates<br />
a natural security barrier that is difficult<br />
to penetrate.<br />
‘San Jose’ is one of the best prostrate<br />
80 u Success with Desert Plants
(low-growing) junipers. Dark sage green<br />
foliage with a compact growth habit to<br />
2 feet high, spreading to 6 feet wide. it<br />
becomes a husky presence with many<br />
branches. Locate in partial shade. Excellent<br />
specimen for tub or bonsai.<br />
‘Torulosa’, also known as ‘Kaizuka’,<br />
Hollywood juniper, has rich green foliage.<br />
Form is upright from 10 to 15 feet<br />
high. Erect branches take on a picturesque,<br />
wind-blown appearance. Best in partial<br />
shade. Handsome shrub for use along<br />
fences or as an accent.<br />
Justicia brandegeana<br />
8°<br />
shrimp plant<br />
(Beloperone guttata). Masses of pinkish<br />
copper, shrimp-shaped bracts, modified<br />
leaves, surround small white flowers set<br />
off by evergreen, apple green leaves. Plants<br />
grow 2 to 3 feet high and as wide, blooming<br />
during the warm season. Best in partial<br />
shade. Good for a tropical effect. Can be<br />
planted in containers. Cut cold-damaged<br />
plants back in early spring to rejuvenate<br />
them. Native to Mexico, it has escaped and<br />
naturalized in southern Florida.<br />
Justicia californica<br />
25°<br />
chuparosa<br />
Showy, red, tubular flowers are most profuse<br />
in the spring, with sporadic flowers<br />
in summer and fall. Sprawling, informal<br />
growth to 4 feet high, spreading to 6 feet<br />
wide, with small, pale green leaves. Ideal<br />
for a hummingbird garden or a natural<br />
garden design. Cut plants back severely<br />
in early spring every two or three years<br />
to reinvigorate growth. A yellow-flowering<br />
form is also available. Native to the<br />
Sonoran Desert.<br />
Justicia spicigera<br />
15°<br />
mexican honeysuckle<br />
Vivid, orange, tubular flowers combine<br />
with soft, fuzzy, pale green leaves, creating<br />
a luxuriant effect. Hummingbirds flock<br />
to plants when in bloom in mid- to late<br />
spring, and into fall with regular water.<br />
Growth is rounded to upright to 4 feet<br />
high. Usually no insect or disease problems.<br />
Tolerates some sun, but grows best<br />
in filtered shade, such as beneath highcanopied<br />
trees. Native to southern Mexico<br />
and into Central America.<br />
Lantana camara<br />
25°<br />
lantana<br />
Evergreen shrub or ground cover. Produces<br />
masses of color during the warm season,<br />
blending with native or introduced dryclimate<br />
plants. Rich green leaves cover the<br />
thickly branched plants. Cut plants back<br />
severely in early spring every two or three<br />
years to renew growth. Native to tropical<br />
America.<br />
Above left: Justicia<br />
brandegeana, shrimp plant.<br />
Above: Justicia californica,<br />
chuparosa.<br />
Shrubs u 81
Below right: Lantana<br />
camara, lantana.<br />
Below center: Lantana<br />
camara ÔNew GoldÕ.<br />
Below left and below:<br />
Larrea tridentata,<br />
creosote bush.<br />
Many outstanding selections are available:<br />
‘Christine’, striking cerise-pink<br />
flowers; ‘Cream Carpet’, cream-colored<br />
flowers; ‘Dwarf White’, velvety white<br />
flowers; ‘Dwarf Yellow’, bright yellow<br />
flowers; ‘New Gold’, golden yellow flowers;<br />
Radiation’, rich, orange-red flowers;<br />
‘Spreading Sunset’ with vivid, orange-red<br />
flowers; ‘Spreading Sunshine’, abundant,<br />
bright yellow flowers create a blanket of<br />
color on low, spreading compact plants;<br />
‘Tangerine’, produces blooms that have a<br />
true, solid tangerine color.<br />
Larrea tridentata<br />
0°<br />
creosote bush<br />
(L. divaricata). This characteristic shrub<br />
of the desert can be seen in abundance<br />
throughout low- and high-elevation regions<br />
of the desert Southwest. The fresh, clean<br />
scent this plant produces after a rain is<br />
unique, and treasured by desert dwellers.<br />
It is one of the most versatile shrubs for a<br />
natural garden design, accepting the toughest<br />
conditions of intense heat, sun, wind,<br />
cold and drought. The olive green, glossy,<br />
evergreen foliage can be most useful as a<br />
hedge or screen or individual specimen.<br />
Creosote is truly maintenance-free. Bees<br />
are attracted to small yellow flowers that<br />
cover the 5- to 12-foot plants in spring.<br />
To help plants develop deep tap roots,<br />
provide new plantings with deep irrigation,<br />
but allow the soil to dry between<br />
applications. If you have inherited creosote<br />
bush on your property, an occasional deep<br />
irrigation will cause plants to produce<br />
more luxuriant growth. Light pruning may<br />
be necessary if plants become scraggly.<br />
Leucophyllum species<br />
Texas Ranger<br />
This genus of flowering shrubs have<br />
become star performers in Southwest landscapes.<br />
More than a dozen species and<br />
selections are available and adapted to a<br />
large region, from Texas to California.<br />
Plants come in a range of sizes and have<br />
evergreen, silvery gray to green foliage<br />
and dense, well-rounded growth. Low<br />
water use, acceptance of full sun and long<br />
flowering seasons are more than enough<br />
attributes to use them in abundance in<br />
most any garden situation. Each species<br />
has a unique value that makes it worthy of<br />
consideration. Native to the Chihuahuan<br />
Desert, most selections are generally cold<br />
hardy to 10°F and have few problems<br />
caused by insects or diseases. Good soil<br />
drainage is important; avoid overwatering.<br />
82 u Success with Desert Plants
Allowed to grow naturally, plants take<br />
on an informal appearance. Controlling<br />
growth by trimming creates a more dense,<br />
hedgelike appearance, but usually results<br />
in fewer flowers and higher water use.<br />
Avoid pruning in globes or squares. Prune<br />
lightly in fall after the flowering season has<br />
finished to maintain the plant’s form and<br />
for a more natural but controlled effect.<br />
Leucophyllum<br />
candidum<br />
15°<br />
violet silverleaf<br />
Plants found in Texas were brought to the<br />
nursery trade due to the gorgeous silvery<br />
foliage and smaller stature (3 feet high and<br />
wide) compared to other Leucophyllum<br />
species. Flowers are deep violet, striking<br />
in contrast against the silver leaves. Most<br />
prolific bloom comes in late summer.<br />
‘Silver Cloud’ has striking, dark violet<br />
flowers, excellent in contrast to its silvery,<br />
almost white foliage. It is larger than<br />
‘Thunder Cloud’ but produces fewer flowers.<br />
‘Thunder Cloud’ grows to 2 feet high<br />
with indigo flowers.<br />
Leucophyllum<br />
frutescens<br />
10°<br />
texas ranger<br />
This is the species that was the first<br />
Leucophyllum to be brought into cultivation.<br />
It grows 6 to 8 feet high and as wide<br />
with a slightly rangy, open growth habit.<br />
Becomes an excellent screening hedge,<br />
and an alternative to oleander. Rose-purple<br />
flowers bloom most profusely in midsummer<br />
against a backdrop of blue-gray leaves.<br />
Native to Texas into Mexico.<br />
‘Compacta’ develops into a dwarf shrub<br />
3 to 4 feet high. ‘Green Cloud’ has light<br />
green foliage; ‘White Cloud’ produces gray<br />
foliage and white flowers. ‘Rain Cloud’ is<br />
a cross between L. frutescens and L. minus.<br />
Foliage is similar to L. frutescens but flowers<br />
are a brilliant shade of violet-blue.<br />
Leucophyllum<br />
laevigatum<br />
chihuahuan<br />
15°<br />
rain sage<br />
Grows to 4 feet high and as wide or wider<br />
with light violet flowers that bloom during<br />
summer, especially with humidity. Small,<br />
wavy, medium green leaves cover the<br />
branches, which turn up at the ends. Native<br />
to canyon bottoms in the Chihuahuan<br />
Desert.<br />
Leucophyllum<br />
langmaniae<br />
15°<br />
cinnamon sage<br />
Grows to 5 feet high and as wide with<br />
leaves that are similar to Chihuahuan<br />
Below left:<br />
Leucophyllum frutescens,<br />
Texas ranger.<br />
Below center:<br />
Leucophyllum candidum<br />
ÔWhite CloudÕ.<br />
Below right:<br />
Leucophyllum frutescens<br />
ÔGreen CloudÕ.<br />
Below: Leucophyllum<br />
candidum ÔSilver<br />
CloudÕ.<br />
Shrubs u 83
Above right:<br />
Leucophyllum laevigatum,<br />
Chihuahuan rain sage.<br />
Above: Leucophyllum<br />
langmaniae ÔRio<br />
BravoÕ.<br />
rain sage but plants have a denser form.<br />
Flowers are violet and appear through the<br />
summer. ‘Rio Bravo’ has improved flowering<br />
performance. Native to Chihuahuan<br />
Desert.<br />
Leucophyllum<br />
pruinosum<br />
10°<br />
sierra ranger<br />
A charming plant with silvery white leaves<br />
and deep purple flowers that are the most<br />
fragrant of the Texas rangers. Grows to 6<br />
feet high with an equal spread, making it<br />
an excellent background plant or screening<br />
hedge.<br />
‘Sierra Bouquet’ is an especially striking<br />
and fragrant plant—its flowers smell<br />
like grape bubblegum. Native to the<br />
Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Leucophyllum<br />
zygophyllum<br />
10°<br />
blue ranger<br />
Grows slowly to 4 feet high and as wide<br />
with a naturally rounded form. Leaves are<br />
a silvery blue-green and are distinctive in<br />
that they cup upward. Light blue-violet<br />
flowers are attractive and appear intermittently<br />
through the warm season.<br />
‘Blue Ranger’ features flowers that are a<br />
darker, blue-violet hue. ‘Cimmaron’ , with<br />
light blue flowers, becomes a compact<br />
shrub 3 to 4 feet high and as wide. Native<br />
to southwest U.S. into Mexico.<br />
Ligustrum japonicum<br />
japanese privet,<br />
25°<br />
waxleaf privet<br />
(L. texanum). Fast growing, evergreen<br />
shrub or small tree 8 to 12 feet high and<br />
as wide. Dark green, lustrous leaves on<br />
heavily branched, upright habit. Clusters<br />
of white flowers bloom in spring. Can be<br />
sheared into topiary forms, also makes a<br />
wonderful hedge or screen. Avoid full sun<br />
situations because leaves are subject to<br />
sunburn. Native to Japan and Korea.<br />
Maytenus<br />
phyllanthoides<br />
15°<br />
mangle dulce<br />
This large evergreen shrub forms a dense,<br />
lush screen with minimal care or effort.<br />
Grows at a slow to moderate rate to 10 feet<br />
high with an equal spread. Bright green,<br />
leathery leaves are rounded and fleshy, and<br />
84 u Success with Desert Plants
are attractive all year long. Inconspicuous<br />
spring flowers are followed by small red<br />
fruit that add a dash of color, and are<br />
enjoyed by birds. Accepts some shade.<br />
Plants are native to salty soil regions of<br />
coastal Texas and Baja.<br />
Murraya paniculata<br />
27°<br />
orange jessamine<br />
Luxuriant, bright, glossy green leaves and<br />
waxy, pure white flowers bloom April<br />
to July. They perfume the air with an<br />
intense, orange blossom fragrance. Makes<br />
an attractive evergreen hedge or screen 6<br />
to 12 feet high. May take on a tree form<br />
ranging to 20 to 25 feet with time, if not<br />
pruned. Best appearance if given some<br />
shade but tolerates full sun with ample<br />
water. Native to southeast Asia.<br />
Myrtus communis<br />
10°<br />
true myrtle<br />
Grown for its aromatic, dark green, glossy<br />
leaves, this shrub has white flowers in the<br />
spring and summer, followed by dark blue<br />
berries. Ideal hedging plant and natural<br />
foundation plant to 10 feet high, it also<br />
accepts shaping well. Accepts some shade.<br />
Native to the eastern Mediterranean.<br />
‘Compacta’, dwarf myrtle, has smaller<br />
leaves and a more compact growth habit to<br />
3 to 4 feet high—ideal for low hedging or<br />
foreground planting.<br />
Nandina domestica<br />
10°<br />
heavenly bamboo<br />
This compact, evergreen shrub grows 5 to<br />
8 feet high. It is a highly versatile plant<br />
for small areas. Appearance is bamboolike,<br />
with many vertical stems that display<br />
distinctive, lacy green leaves. Foliage may<br />
turn brilliant shades of red and orange in<br />
fall, depending on extent of exposure to<br />
sun and cold. Red berries in winter are<br />
also an attraction. Great decorative value<br />
in containers. Best with eastern or northern<br />
exposure; don’t plant on the sunny west<br />
side. As plants age, remove old stems to<br />
renew growth, otherwise little maintenance<br />
required. Dwarf selections are available.<br />
Native to India and east Asia.<br />
Nerium oleander<br />
20°<br />
oleander<br />
Oleander has long been a workhorse plant<br />
in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, useful as wind-<br />
Top left: Myrtus<br />
communis, true myrtle.<br />
Left: Maytenus<br />
phyllanthoides,<br />
mangle dulce.<br />
Above: Nandina<br />
domestica, heavenly<br />
bamboo.<br />
Shrubs u 85
Above right: Perovskia<br />
atriplicifolia, Russian sage.<br />
Above left: Nerium<br />
oleander, oleander.<br />
Above center: Phlomis<br />
fruticosa, Jerusalem sage.<br />
Above: Plumbago scandens,<br />
white desert plumbago.<br />
breaks and screens. But oleander leaf<br />
scorch—a bacterial disease—and canker—<br />
a bacterial infection—are destroying<br />
mature plantings throughout California<br />
and the Southwest. Currently, older plants,<br />
20 to 30 years old, are most affected. There<br />
is no known cure. At this time it is recommended<br />
that other plants be grown.<br />
If you have healthy, existing plantings,<br />
continue to maintain them as usual. Prune<br />
during warm weather, dipping clippers into<br />
a 10 percent bleach solution between cuts.<br />
Pruning exposes the interior of the plant to<br />
sunlight, stimulating new flowering wood.<br />
Do not prune into globes or squares. Avoid<br />
shearing, which reduces flowering wood.<br />
Note that all plant parts are poisonous so<br />
do not burn wood—the resulting smoke<br />
may cause irritation.<br />
Perovskia<br />
atriplicifolia<br />
russian sage<br />
This is an underused plant that blends<br />
well with Rosmarinus, Salvia, Encelia<br />
and Ericameria species. It grows 3 to 4<br />
feet high and as wide. Stems with small,<br />
toothed, gray-green leaves are topped with<br />
showy spikes of diminutive lavender flowers<br />
in the summer. Selections that produce<br />
flowers in different colors are available.<br />
Well-drained soil and moderate applications<br />
of water help ensure vigorous, healthy<br />
growth. Space at least 4 feet apart so they<br />
have ample room to reach mature height<br />
and spread. Cutting plants back severely<br />
in early spring renews growth. Native to<br />
eastern Iran and northwest India.<br />
Phlomis fruticosa<br />
25°<br />
jerusalem sage<br />
Evergreen perennial subshrub from 2 to<br />
3 feet high and as wide. In spring, clear<br />
yellow flowers develop atop stems with<br />
whorls of gray, velvety, aromatic leaves.<br />
This is a great plant on slopes or combine<br />
with other dry-climate plants. Deadhead<br />
old flowers for rebloom. Provide good soil<br />
drainage and moderate but deep watering.<br />
Accepts full sun but prefers afternoon<br />
shade. Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
Photinia X fraseri<br />
5°<br />
photinia<br />
Evergreen shrub or screen to 6 to 10<br />
feet high. A special attraction is the new<br />
leaf growth in spring that is a glistening,<br />
coppery red on bright red stems. Foliage<br />
eventually turns a medium green. Clusters<br />
of white blossoms also put on a spring<br />
86 u Success with Desert Plants
show. More mildew resistant than other<br />
photinias. Native to eastern Asia.<br />
Pittosporum tobira<br />
5°<br />
mock orange, tobira<br />
This evergreen shrub grows 6 to 10 feet<br />
high, with glossy green leaves to 4 inches<br />
long. Fragrant, white flower clusters<br />
bloom in spring. Gradually becomes a<br />
vigorous, sturdy, heavily branching foundation<br />
shrub. Prefers partial shade location<br />
with filtered sunlight, such as beneath a<br />
canopy tree. Native to Japan.<br />
‘Wheeler’s Dwarf’ is much more compact<br />
to 2 feet high. Dense growth makes<br />
it a good choice as a foreground shrub.<br />
‘Variegata’, variegated mock orange, is a<br />
combination of light green and white variegated<br />
foliage. It features low, compactbranching<br />
growth from 4 to 8 feet high.<br />
Plumbago scandens<br />
15°<br />
white desert plumbago<br />
Grows to 3 feet high and as wide, becoming<br />
a rambling, vining shrub. Glossy<br />
green, evergreen leaves turn red to purple<br />
with cold weather. Produces white, tubular<br />
flowers from spring into fall, attracting<br />
butterflies. Better appearance when<br />
provided with afternoon shade, such as in<br />
an eastern exposure. Native to southern<br />
Arizona and Mexico.<br />
‘Summer Snow’ is an improved selection.<br />
Prunus caroliniana<br />
‘Compacta’<br />
10°<br />
dwarf cherry laurel<br />
Specially selected strain of Carolina laurel<br />
cherry, grown for its tight, compact growth<br />
habit. An evergreen, it grows to 4 feet high<br />
and as wide with glossy, deep green leaves.<br />
Small, creamy white flowers in March<br />
are followed by blackish red berries that<br />
attract birds. Best with afternoon shade<br />
in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Does not accept<br />
saline or alkaline soils. Hybrid of parents<br />
native to southern Appalachia.<br />
Pyracantha<br />
crenatoserrata<br />
10°<br />
pyracantha, firethorn<br />
(P. fortuneana). A vigorous, thorny, upright<br />
shrub to 8 to 12 feet high with dark green<br />
leaves. Outstanding landscape interest<br />
throughout the year due to its clusters of<br />
white spring flowers and large, long-lasting,<br />
red berries in winter. Accepts espalier<br />
training. Native to China.<br />
Many selections are available. ‘Graberi’<br />
is more erect, with huge clusters of flowers<br />
and berries.<br />
Pyracantha X<br />
‘Santa Cruz Prostrata’<br />
10°<br />
prostrate pyracantha<br />
Unique prostrate growth habit allows this<br />
pyracantha to be used for ground cover,<br />
bank planting or as a low shrub. Grows<br />
Below left: Photinia X fraseri,<br />
photinia.<br />
Below right: Pittosporum<br />
tobira ÔWheelerÕs<br />
DwarfÕ.<br />
Below: Pyracantha species,<br />
pyracantha.<br />
Shrubs u 87
Below right: Raphiolepis<br />
indica, indian hawthorn.<br />
Below left: Salvia<br />
clevelandii, chaparral sage.<br />
Below: Ruellia<br />
peninsularis, Baja ruellia.<br />
from 2 to 4 feet high and up to 8 feet wide.<br />
Evergreen, with attractive, glossy, deep<br />
green foliage. Covers itself with masses<br />
of white flowers in spring followed by red<br />
berries in fall. Prune upright branches to<br />
maintain low-growing form.<br />
Raphiolepis indica<br />
10°<br />
indian hawthorn<br />
(Rhaphiolepis indica). Evergreen shrub 3<br />
to 4 feet high and 5 to 6 feet wide, with<br />
a dense, rounded form. From January to<br />
April, the dark green leaves are blanketed<br />
by magnificent clusters of flowers. Well<br />
drained soil is required. Accepts partial<br />
shade. Avoid overhead watering in sunny<br />
locations. Native to southern China.<br />
Many cultivars are available: ‘Ballerina’,<br />
rosy pink; ‘Clara’, white; ‘Jack Evans’,<br />
bright pink; Spring RApture, rose-red<br />
flowers;‘Springtime’, deep pink.<br />
Ruellia brittoniana<br />
18°<br />
ruellia<br />
Although dwarf forms are available, the<br />
full-size plant is a pleasure to grow, reaching<br />
3 to 4 feet high and spreading at least<br />
as wide. Given the room and provided regular<br />
water, it can spread to fill a planting<br />
bed. The long, bronzy green leaves make<br />
a nice backdrop to the purple, trumpetshaped<br />
flowers. Each bloom lasts a single<br />
day, but the shrub blooms throughout the<br />
warm season. For best appearance, plant<br />
where it will receive afternoon shade.<br />
Does best in well drained soil, but accepts<br />
clay soils. Native to Mexico.<br />
Ruellia peninsularis<br />
25°<br />
baja ruellia<br />
This is an evergreen shrub growing to<br />
3 feet high, putting out a profusion of<br />
purple flowers in late spring and summer.<br />
Combine with yellow-flowering Encelia<br />
farinosa and red-flowering Salvia greggii<br />
for striking color combinations. Adapts<br />
well to heat, wind and reflected sun, which<br />
makes it a good poolside plant. Plants<br />
seldom need pruning except to thin old<br />
growth for renewal.<br />
88 u Success with Desert Plants
Salvia species<br />
Salvia<br />
Salvia is a large genus, with over 900 species<br />
world wide. For best results in the<br />
<strong>Valley</strong>, plant species that are adapted to our<br />
desert climate.<br />
Hummingbirds love salvias, so desert<br />
gardeners are wise to include them in their<br />
gardens to attract these fascinating birds.<br />
Salvias come in a range of sizes. Some<br />
grow as low as 1 foot high, others up to 8<br />
feet. Leaf color varies greatly as well, from<br />
silvery white, to olive, to lush deep green.<br />
All grow rapidly, and benefit from pruning<br />
(cutting back) after flowering has ceased.<br />
Select species carefully to suit the space<br />
you have available. Here are just a few<br />
salvias known to do well in the <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
Salvia clevelandii<br />
chaparral sage,<br />
10°<br />
cleveland sage<br />
This sage is native to California’s rugged<br />
coastal chaparral, and is surprisingly well<br />
adapted to the tougher climates of desert<br />
areas. Most plants reach 4 feet high and<br />
5 feet or more wide. Fragrant blue flowers<br />
develop in whorls on stems in spring.<br />
Deadhead old flower stems in summer<br />
after bloom period has passed to renew<br />
growth. Well-drained soil recommended.<br />
Accepts some shade. Gray-green foliage<br />
blends well with many desert natives,<br />
and produces a pleasant, musky fragrance<br />
when brushed. Plants sometimes scent the<br />
air after a vigorous rain. Recently introduced<br />
cultivars featuring different shades<br />
of purple flowers are available.<br />
Salvia greggii<br />
0°<br />
autumn sage<br />
This evergreen subshrub grows 2 to 3<br />
feet high and as wide. Effective when<br />
planted in masses, the flower spikes in<br />
shades of scarlet-red and magenta attract<br />
hummingbirds. Finches enjoy the seeds.<br />
Afternoon shade is appreciated in low-elevation<br />
deserts. Prune old flowering wood<br />
after blooms cease to create new flush of<br />
growth. Native to Texas and Mexico.<br />
Many cultivars are available, including<br />
‘White’, with elongated white flowers; and<br />
‘Sierra Linda’ (red flowers), which is heat<br />
tolerant.<br />
Below left: Salvia<br />
greggii, autumn sage<br />
(white and red selections).<br />
Below right: Salvia<br />
greggii, autumn sage.<br />
Below: Ruellia<br />
brittoniana, ruellia.<br />
Shrubs u 89
Below right: Salvia<br />
leucantha, Mexican<br />
bush sage.<br />
Below center: Senna<br />
artemisioides,<br />
feathery senna.<br />
Below: Senna species,<br />
senna.<br />
Salvia leucantha<br />
20°<br />
mexican bush sage<br />
This evergreen shrub grows from 2 to 4<br />
feet high with an often greater spread.<br />
Casual, graceful mounding growth habit<br />
is well-suited to a natural garden design.<br />
Plant in masses for a striking flower displays.<br />
Long, slender, velvety purple spikes<br />
bloom late summer well into fall, sometimes<br />
into winter. Cut back plants after<br />
flowering in late winter for fresh growth<br />
in spring. Best if given afternoon shade.<br />
Native to Mexico.<br />
Senna species<br />
Senna<br />
(Cassia). This group of shrubs are star<br />
performers for the arid West, producing<br />
yellow fragrant flowers in abundance from<br />
late winter into the spring months. They are<br />
low water users once they’re established,<br />
and thrive in full sun. Depending on species,<br />
plants grow from 5 to 6 feet high or<br />
more, with an equal spread. Foliage color<br />
and type varies with each species.<br />
All Senna species can be controlled by<br />
natural thinning and topping. Remove<br />
seed pods after flowering for a neater<br />
appearance. Pods have been used medicinally<br />
for eons, but some species are toxic.<br />
Plant in well-drained soil. Prune sennas<br />
after flowering has passed. This helps<br />
remove seed pods and keeps plants in<br />
proportion.<br />
Note: Many species within this genus<br />
were formerly named Cassia. Nurseries<br />
may carry these plants labeled as Cassia.<br />
Senna artemisioides<br />
22°<br />
feathery senna<br />
(Cassia artemisioides). Grows rapidly<br />
from 4 to 6 feet high and as wide with an<br />
upright, rounded form. Makes a fine background<br />
for tall perennials or dwarf shrubs.<br />
The evergreen, gray-green, feathery leaves<br />
blend perfectly with the yellow flowers<br />
that appear late winter and spring. Prune<br />
in fall or in cool weather following flowering.<br />
Native to Australia.<br />
Senna artemisioides<br />
filifolia<br />
15°<br />
desert senna<br />
(Cassia nemophila). This variety has<br />
greener silvery foliage and is larger than<br />
Senna artemisioides. Yellow flowers that<br />
bloom in late winter and spring are followed<br />
by brown seed pods. Grows 4 to<br />
90 u Success with Desert Plants
8 feet high with an equal spread. Space 8<br />
to 10 feet apart to allow the plant to grow<br />
naturally, which will also yield the most<br />
profuse flowers. Remove seed pods with<br />
a light natural pruning or knock them off.<br />
More hardy to cold than S. artemisioides.<br />
Native to Australia.<br />
Senna artemisioides<br />
petiolaris<br />
22°<br />
silver senna<br />
(Cassia phyllodinea). Gray-green, sickleshaped<br />
leaves shimmer in the wind. One<br />
of the most early flowering sennas, it<br />
sometimes begins blooming in December,<br />
and often continuing into April. Evergreen,<br />
with mature size of 6 feet high with<br />
equal spread. Growth is more compact so<br />
heavy shearing or pruning is not usually<br />
required. Prune when flowering has ceased<br />
and while weather is still cool. Native to<br />
Australia.<br />
Senna wislizenii<br />
10°<br />
shrubby senna<br />
(Cassia wislizenii). Stiff, gray-green, 1-<br />
inch leaves are winter deciduous. Spring<br />
growth has tinge of bronze that creates a<br />
striking effect. Grows 6 feet high and 8<br />
feet wide. Bright yellow flower clusters<br />
bloom June to September, rather than winter<br />
months, as other Senna described here.<br />
This is a tough plant that tolerates salinity,<br />
alkalinity, some flooding and even neglect.<br />
Plant in background where loss of leaves<br />
in winter is not notable. Early growth<br />
is slow, but after a season or two plants<br />
develop more vigor. Native to Sonoran and<br />
Chihuahuan Deserts.<br />
Simmondsia chinensis<br />
15°<br />
jojoba<br />
This distinctive shrub is native to the<br />
Sonoran Desert, growing 4 to 8 feet high<br />
with an equal spread. Gray-green, leathery,<br />
evergreen leaves are dense, producing<br />
mounding growth adapted to informal and<br />
formal designs. Use as a foundation plant,<br />
hedge (accepts some shearing) , screen or<br />
background shrub. Male and female flowers<br />
are borne on different plants, so both<br />
must be present for the female to produce<br />
the seeds, which have many commercial<br />
uses. Little or no pruning required. Plant<br />
in well-drained soil.<br />
Tagetes lemmonii<br />
5°<br />
mountain marigold<br />
This mounding shrub from 3 to 4 feet high<br />
can be recognized by its golden yellow,<br />
Below left: Simmondsia<br />
chinensis, jojoba.<br />
Below right: Tagetes<br />
lemmonii, mountain<br />
marigold.<br />
Below: Senna wislizenii,<br />
shrubby senna.<br />
Shrubs u 91
Above right: Tecoma<br />
ÔOrange JubileeÕ.<br />
Above left: Tecoma stans,<br />
yellow trumpet flower.<br />
Above: Tecomaria capensis,<br />
cape honeysuckle.<br />
daisylike flowers that develop in late fall.<br />
If not damaged by frost, flowering continues<br />
into spring. Finely divided, light green<br />
foliage is strongly aromatic. Cut foliage<br />
back by half in early summer to develop<br />
sturdy growth to support flowers. Native<br />
to southeastern Arizona.<br />
Tecoma stans<br />
yellow trumpet<br />
28°<br />
flower<br />
(Stenolobium stans). Large, vigorous plant<br />
useful as shrub, espalier or background. In<br />
warm microclimates with time and training,<br />
it can become a small tree with a potential<br />
to reach 15 to 20 feet high. Yellow clusters<br />
of trumpet-shaped flowers adorn the<br />
plant from June to February. Provide full<br />
sun and heat, with moderate water. Prune<br />
to control the vigorous growth. Native to<br />
Mexico and West Indies.<br />
Tecoma ‘Orange Jubilee’ is similar in<br />
size and form but produces an abundance<br />
of bright orange, tubular flowers.<br />
Tecomaria capensis<br />
28°<br />
cape honeysuckle<br />
Large, upright, evergreen shrub 6 to 10<br />
feet high, or a spreading, non-climbing<br />
vine to 20 feet. Grown for its glossy green<br />
leaves and brilliant clusters of orange-red,<br />
trumpet-shaped flowers that bloom in winter<br />
and spring. This is a tough plant that<br />
adapts to a range of growing conditions.<br />
Rapid growth rate requires pruning to<br />
control during the warm season, which the<br />
plant accepts without problems. Recovers<br />
rapidly in spring if damaged by frost.<br />
Native to South Africa.<br />
Thevetia peruviana<br />
28°<br />
lucky nut<br />
In warm microclimates, this shrub can be<br />
pruned to become a small umbrella-shaped<br />
tree from 15 to 20 feet high. Typically, however,<br />
it is a large shrub to 8 feet high and<br />
as wide. Strap-shaped leaves 3 to 6 inches<br />
long and 1/2 inch wide are a rich yellowish<br />
green. Foliage is dense and provides an<br />
excellent backdrop to the mildly fragrant<br />
flowers. Yellow or peach-colored, trumpet-shaped<br />
flowers to 3 inches in diameter<br />
adorn the plant spring into fall, and year-<br />
-round in mild years. Soak the root zone<br />
deeply every week or two in summer for<br />
best performance. Young plants are hardy<br />
92 u Success with Desert Plants
to 25°F. Prune to remove frost-damaged<br />
stems in early spring. Native to tropical<br />
America.<br />
Vauquelinia californica<br />
arizona rosewood<br />
Large evergreen shrub to small tree with<br />
one to several trunks. Grows at a moderate<br />
rate 10 to 15 feet high, spreading from 5<br />
to 15 feet. Linear, leathery leaves up to 4<br />
inches long are dark green above and velvety<br />
gray beneath. Large clusters of small<br />
white flowers appear on branch tips in late<br />
spring. A rugged and enduring plant with<br />
rich textured foliage and an ornamental<br />
character. An excellent alternative to oleander.<br />
Native to Baja California and, what<br />
was once Alta California, now Arizona.<br />
Viburnum tinus<br />
15°<br />
laurustinus<br />
A dense, evergreen shrub from 6 to 12<br />
feet high and half as wide. Luxuriant<br />
deep green foliage is the background for<br />
large quantities of striking white flowers<br />
blushed with pink during fall and winter.<br />
Tends to develop mildew in heavy shade;<br />
locate in partial shade and out of afternoon<br />
sun. Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
‘Robustum,’ roundleaf laurustinus, is<br />
more mildew resistant, has coarser leaves<br />
and whiter flowers. Often used as a narrow<br />
patio tree.<br />
Viguiera deltoidea<br />
20°<br />
golden eye<br />
Outstanding small flowering shrub to 3 feet<br />
high and as wide. The grayish green leaves<br />
are covered with dense hairs, giving them<br />
an interesting texture. Conspicuous yellow<br />
daisy flowers offer bright splashes of<br />
color from spring into summer. Seeds are<br />
enjoyed by birds. Native to the Sonoran<br />
Desert.<br />
Xylosma congestum<br />
10°<br />
xylosma<br />
(X. senticosum). Versatile, medium-sized<br />
evergreen shrub 6 to 10 feet high. Also<br />
can be grown as a multiple-trunked tree,<br />
espalier, screen or clipped hedge. Arching<br />
branches are attractive on upright growth<br />
habit. New foliage has reddish tint, which<br />
then matures into glossy light green.<br />
Flowers are insignificant. Easy to control<br />
and accepts trimming well. Accepts some<br />
shade. Native to China.<br />
Above left: Vauquelinia<br />
californica, Arizona<br />
rosewood.<br />
Above: Viguiera deltoidea,<br />
golden eye.<br />
Shrubs u 93
G R O U N D C O V E R S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Ground covers spread over the ground,<br />
covering the soil surface with a carpet of<br />
foliage and flowers. They retain moisture<br />
in the soil, saving water. Planted on slopes<br />
and banks, they help reduce soil erosion. As<br />
a landscape element, ground covers can be<br />
a bold statement on their own, or a unifying<br />
element with other plant forms.<br />
Ground covers are available in different<br />
growth habits. They clump, mound, creep<br />
or trail. Clumping ground covers form<br />
upward-reaching clumps. Mounding forms<br />
create downward-reaching clumps. The<br />
foliage of creeping forms stiffly hug the<br />
ground, while trailing forms are relaxed.<br />
Trailing ground covers are adapted to grow<br />
in planters where they add interest by draping<br />
over the edges.<br />
Grass lawns are also a form of ground<br />
cover. For more on lawns, see page 142.<br />
94 u Success with Desert Plants
Acacia redolens<br />
‘Prostrata’<br />
15°<br />
prostrate acacia<br />
Generally reaches 1-1/2 to 2 feet high<br />
and can spread 8 to 10 feet wide. Some<br />
mounding occurs at crown. Remove vertical<br />
growth shoots as they occur. Yellow<br />
puffball flowers bloom in spring. Rapid<br />
coverage on slopes and for erosion control.<br />
Native to Australia.<br />
‘Desert Carpet’ is a selection with a more<br />
prostrate growth habit.<br />
Baccharis X<br />
‘Centennial’<br />
prostrate desert<br />
10°<br />
broom<br />
A low-growing, wide-spreading hybrid<br />
between Baccharis sarothroides and B.<br />
pilularis. Grows well under both dry and<br />
moist conditions, roots deeply to prevent<br />
erosion and presents a good-looking, yearround<br />
appearance. Grows 1 to 2 feet high,<br />
spreading 3 to 6 feet wide. Plant 2 to 3<br />
feet apart for ground cover. After plants<br />
are established, cut them back in winter to<br />
early spring to control and renew growth.<br />
Native to southwest U.S. Baccharis X<br />
‘Starn’ is a more uniform and compact<br />
selection.<br />
Calylophus hartwegii<br />
5°<br />
calylophus<br />
A clumping ground cover with masses<br />
of large yellow flowers to 2 inches wide.<br />
Blooms in spring, summer and into fall.<br />
Grows 1 to 1-1/2 feet high and spreads to<br />
2 feet wide. Leaves are narrow and bright<br />
green. Attractive when tucked in among<br />
boulders or massed in clusters. Plant in<br />
soil that has good drainage. Cut back to 8<br />
inches high in fall after blooming ceases to<br />
reshape and renew plant for spring growth.<br />
Plants are dormant in winter. Native to<br />
southeastern Arizona.<br />
Chrysactinia mexicana<br />
0°<br />
damianita<br />
This is a low, clumping, evergreen ground<br />
cover with a slow growth rate. Damianita<br />
bears solid yellow, daisylike flowers from<br />
April to September, and are more prolific<br />
with weekly watering. Plants grow 1 to 2<br />
feet high with an equal spread. After a long<br />
Below left: Chrysactinia<br />
mexicana, damianita.<br />
Below right (bottom):<br />
Calylophus hartwegii,<br />
calylophus.<br />
Below center: Baccharis<br />
X ÔStarnÕ desert broom.<br />
Below right (top)<br />
Baccharis X<br />
ÔCentennialÕ, prostrate<br />
desert broom.<br />
Below: Acacia redolens<br />
ÔProstrataÕ, prostrate<br />
Ground Covers u 95
Below right: Dalea<br />
capitata, golden dalea.<br />
Below: Dalea greggii,<br />
trailing indigo bush.<br />
flowering season, lightly prune spent flowers<br />
to improve appearance. Plant in soil<br />
with good drainage. Native to west Texas<br />
into New Mexico.<br />
Convolvulus cneorum<br />
silver bush morning<br />
10°<br />
glory<br />
Dwarf, compact, evergreen shrub 2 to 3<br />
feet high and 3 feet wide, with soft silvery<br />
foliage. Masses of 1-inch, round, white to<br />
pink flowers bloom late spring and summer.<br />
Plants located in full sun have fuller,<br />
more dense growth; in partial shade form<br />
is more open. Plant in well-drained soil.<br />
Native to southern Europe.<br />
Convolvulus<br />
mauritanicus<br />
ground morning<br />
22°<br />
glory<br />
Fast-growing, trailing evergreen perennial<br />
1 to 1-1/2 feet high, spreading 2 feet<br />
wide. Small, round, gray-green leaves are<br />
covered with 1-inch-wide, lavender-blue<br />
flowers all summer. Plant in full sun only.<br />
Requires good soil drainage. Trim plants<br />
back in winter to renew. Native to Africa.<br />
Dalea capitata<br />
0°<br />
golden dalea<br />
Creeping ground cover with small, fine<br />
textured bright green leaves. Can grow<br />
to around 1 foot high, spreading to 3 feet<br />
wide. Excellent in small planters or in a<br />
rock garden. Golden blooms cover plants<br />
in spring and again in fall. It can look<br />
unappealing when dormant in winter. Cut<br />
back in late winter to rejuvenate. Native<br />
to the Chihuahuan Desert. ‘Sierra Gold’<br />
tends to be a more prolific bloomer.<br />
Dalea greggii<br />
15°<br />
trailing indigo bush<br />
This Chihuahuan Desert native is admired<br />
by gardeners seeking a low-water use<br />
ground cover. Plants grow from 1 to 1-<br />
1/2 feet high with foliage that remains a<br />
handsome gray to gray-green all year long.<br />
Dainty purple flowers bloom in spring. A<br />
single plant can spread an incredible 10<br />
to 15 feet in diameter. Little pruning is<br />
required unless plants are located in small<br />
spaces or along curbs or walks. Once<br />
96 u Success with Desert Plants
established, water need is low. Growth is<br />
more vigorous with moderate water. An<br />
ideal ground cover for erosion control.<br />
Install drip head or bubbler 1-1/2 to 2 feet<br />
from plant crown.<br />
Gazania rigens<br />
leucolaena<br />
26°<br />
trailing gazania<br />
(G. leucolaena). Clean, silvery green foliage<br />
spreads rapidly, forming an attractive,<br />
clumping cover. Grows 6 to 10 inches<br />
high spreading up to 2 feet wide. Daisylike<br />
flowers in a selection of yellows and<br />
oranges are borne in profusion practically<br />
every month of the year. Useful on banks<br />
for erosion control. Acceptable growth in<br />
relatively poor soil. Space 1-1/2 to 2 feet<br />
apart. Not for extremely hot or sunny locations,<br />
such as western exposure. Accepts<br />
some shade. Native to South Africa.<br />
Lantana<br />
montevidensis<br />
28°<br />
trailing lantana<br />
Clumping, rapid-growing and free-blooming<br />
ground cover from 1-1/2 to 2 feet<br />
high spreading to 3 feet wide. Plants are<br />
blanketed with lavender flowers during the<br />
warmer seasons. If damaged by frost, prune<br />
in late winter and plants come back fast<br />
in the spring. Ideal bank cover, especially<br />
on sunny slopes, good for erosion control.<br />
Space plants 1-1/2 to 2 feet apart for ground<br />
cover. Native to South America.<br />
‘Gold Mound’, a hybrid introduction<br />
from Texas A&M University, has rich gold<br />
flowers and does not produce seeds. Many<br />
other hybrids are available.<br />
Myoporum<br />
parvifolium<br />
24°<br />
myoporum<br />
A good ground-hugging cover for the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, myoporum is tough,<br />
hardy and fast-growing. It grows 3 to<br />
4 inches high spreading wide to 6 to 9<br />
feet. Bright green, 1-inch leaves with<br />
white flowers in summer produce a cooling<br />
effect. Branches root as they spread.<br />
Best with morning sun, which is an eastern<br />
exposure. Needs well-drained soil.<br />
Below left (bottom):<br />
Convolvulus<br />
mauritanicus, ground<br />
morning glory.<br />
Below left (top):<br />
Convolvulus cneorum,<br />
silver bush morning<br />
glory.<br />
Below center: Myoporum<br />
parvifolium, myoporum.<br />
Below: Lantana<br />
montevidensis, trailing<br />
lantana.<br />
Ground Covers u 97
Above right: Ruellia<br />
brittoniana ÔKatieÕ,<br />
dwarf ruellia.<br />
Above left: Oenothera<br />
berlandieri, Mexican<br />
evening primrose.<br />
Above: Rosmarinus<br />
officinalis ÔProstratusÕ,<br />
prostrate rosemary.<br />
Works well as cover on slopes and banks,<br />
but does not tolerate traffic. Native to<br />
Australia.<br />
Oenothera berlandieri<br />
mexican evening<br />
15°<br />
primrose<br />
This plant makes a colorful, upright ground<br />
cover for small areas. Grows to 12 inches<br />
high with 1-1/2-inch, rose-pink blossoms<br />
that bloom late spring into summer. Cut<br />
back prior to bloom in late winter, then<br />
again after flowering ceases for best performance.<br />
Be aware that this plant can be<br />
invasive, and spreads by underground runners<br />
to invade nearby plantings, particularly<br />
in regularly irrigated areas. Native to<br />
the Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Oenothera stubbei<br />
chihuahuan primrose,<br />
10°<br />
saltillo primrose<br />
In past years, this plant was incorrectly<br />
labeled Oenothera drummondii, and sold<br />
as Baja primrose. It is an evergreen ground<br />
cover that reaches 6 inches high and spreads<br />
to around 3 feet wide when given regular<br />
moisture. Buttery yellow flowers to 3<br />
inches across open in evening and fade the<br />
next morning. Blooms throughout the year,<br />
but heaviest in spring. Spreads by underground<br />
runners, making it good for erosion<br />
control. Best in partial shade to half-day of<br />
full sun. Native to the Chihuahuan Desert<br />
of northeastern Mexico.<br />
Rosmarinus officinalis<br />
‘Prostratus’<br />
0°<br />
prostrate rosemary<br />
Prostrate rosemary can be clumping,<br />
mounding, creeping or trailing, depending<br />
on the cultivar. Upright cultivars grow into<br />
shrub forms to 6 feet tall. Select cultivars<br />
carefully to fit garden space. All forms<br />
of rosemary can be used as the culinary<br />
herb.<br />
Native to the Mediterranean. ‘Prostratus’<br />
spreads 4 to 8 feet and remains less than<br />
2 feet high. Small, light blue to violet<br />
flowers are profuse in early spring. Many<br />
new varieties are becoming available.<br />
Some have broader leaves, such as ‘Miss<br />
Jessup’, and others have brighter colored<br />
flowers such as ‘Collingwood Ingram’.<br />
‘Huntington Carpet’ is a particularly lowgrowing<br />
selection that retains foliage in<br />
the center of the plant better than other<br />
creeping forms.<br />
98 u Success with Desert Plants
Ruellia brittoniana<br />
‘Katie’<br />
18°<br />
dwarf ruellia<br />
This dwarf herbaceous plant grows to just<br />
12 inches high, spreading in a mounding<br />
form by underground runners. Blue, bellshaped<br />
flowers to 2 inches across bloom<br />
summer into fall, set off by medium green<br />
leaves 4 to 6 inches long. Can be used in<br />
containers, as a small-area ground cover<br />
or as a filler beneath taller plants. Native<br />
to Mexico.<br />
Teucrium chamaedrys<br />
‘Prostratum’<br />
creeping germander<br />
Like rosemary, this herb can be bushy or<br />
creeping, be sure to purchase the creeping<br />
form if you want a ground cover. Unlike<br />
rosemary, the leaves are bright glossy<br />
green and rounded, and not at all needlelike.<br />
Creeping germander spreads rapidly,<br />
forming a thick cover 8 to 10 inches high.<br />
Plants root deeply and make an excellent<br />
soil binder. Plant 12 to 15 inches apart.<br />
Spikes of attractive, rosy lavender flowers<br />
bloom in spring and summer. Native to the<br />
Mediterranean.<br />
Vinca major<br />
15°<br />
periwinkle<br />
This mounding ground cover grows rapidly<br />
to 1-1/2 feet high, spreading by runners<br />
that root as they spread to several feet<br />
wide. It’s an aggressive grower and can be<br />
invasive. Vigorous, glossy green foliage<br />
makes a wonderful background for starshaped,<br />
lavender-blue flowers that bloom<br />
spring and summer. Plant 1-1/2 to 2 feet<br />
apart for ground cover. Native to Africa.<br />
Wedelia trilobata<br />
30°<br />
yellow dot<br />
A rapid growing, trailing ground cover to<br />
1-1/2 feet high and 6 feet wide. Glossy,<br />
dark green leaves make an excellent backdrop<br />
to the small, golden yellow, daisylike<br />
flowers that cover the plant during the<br />
warm season. Locate carefully—this plant<br />
can be an aggressive grower if overwatered.<br />
Once established, water deeply only<br />
once a month in summer. Although it can<br />
grow in full shade, plants produce more<br />
flowers in full sun. Finches like the seeds.<br />
Native to Central and South America.<br />
Above left (top):<br />
Teucrium chamaedrys<br />
ÔProstratumÕ, creeping<br />
germander.<br />
Above left (bottom):<br />
Vinca major, periwinkle.<br />
Above right: Wedelia trilobata,<br />
yellow dot.<br />
Above: Oenothera stubbei,<br />
Chihuahuan primrose.<br />
Ground Covers u 99
V I N E S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Vines are valuable, versatile plants.<br />
Plant them for restful green leaves,<br />
shade, screening, overhead protection,<br />
or for the pure beauty of their flowers.<br />
Because they need little root space and<br />
take advantage of the vertical dimension,<br />
they are ideal for small yards.<br />
Many species are fast growing, and if<br />
provided a proper structure to climb<br />
on, a single vine can provide as much<br />
shade as a large tree—within a few<br />
years.<br />
When considering vines, be aware<br />
of the different methods in which they<br />
climb. Some do not climb at all, and<br />
must be tied in place. Others are selfclimbing,<br />
with tendrils, twining stems,<br />
grasping rootlets or a combination of<br />
methods. If you have stucco walls, avoid<br />
plants that climb with rootlets. They<br />
may cause serious damage.<br />
100 u Success with Desert Plants
Antigonon leptopus<br />
queen’s wreath,<br />
25°<br />
coral vine<br />
In its native habitat, this Sonoran Desert<br />
native is usually found growing in canyons.<br />
It is a rapid-growing, twining climber,<br />
the stems up to 40 feet long providing<br />
quick, attractive cover. Leaves are bright<br />
green, large and heart-shaped. Queen’s<br />
wreath blooms profusely with large clusters<br />
of bright pink flowers with deeper<br />
pink centers. (See photo, opposite page,<br />
top.) Flowers attract bees. Plant goes dormant<br />
and freezes to ground when temperatures<br />
drop below 32°F. It regrows from<br />
roots when warm temperatures return in<br />
spring. If low temperatures are expected,<br />
cover roots with a deep layer of mulch.<br />
‘Baja Red’ produces bright red flowers.<br />
Bougainvillea species<br />
28°<br />
bougainvillea<br />
Bougainvillea species are popular “workhorse”<br />
plants in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
Shrub and vining forms produce volumes<br />
of color from their bracts—the modified<br />
leaves that surround the actual, tiny white<br />
flowers. Select a warm microclimate for<br />
a planting site because bougainvillea is<br />
relatively frost-tender. If nipped by frost,<br />
wait until spring to remove frost damage.<br />
Plants produce a lot of litter, so avoid<br />
planting near pools. After young plants are<br />
established, keep bougainvillea on the dry<br />
side, which surprisingly encourages plants<br />
to produce more flowers. Originally native<br />
to South America. Numerous cultivars are<br />
available in a wide range of colors. A few<br />
favorites are listed here.<br />
‘Barbara Karst’ produces cascading<br />
masses of large, brilliant red to magenta<br />
bracts that are borne almost continually.<br />
One of the earliest to bloom each year.<br />
Can take lower temperatures than the other<br />
cultivars. ‘California Gold’ has rich golden<br />
orange bracts that bloom profusely in vivid<br />
contrast to its deep green leaves. ‘Jamaica<br />
White’ has masses of frothy, sea foam<br />
white bracts that cascade from branch tips.<br />
Blooms occasionally take on a slight pink<br />
tinge with cooler weather. ‘Orange King’<br />
is covered with bronzy orange-gold flower<br />
bracts in graceful sprays. ‘Texas Dawn’<br />
produces rosy pink bracts suspended from<br />
long arching sprays. ‘Temple Fire’ is a<br />
newer cultivar that is partially cold-deciduous<br />
with bronze-red bracts.<br />
These two are more shrublike in their<br />
growth habit: ‘Crimson Jewel’ has luxurious,<br />
dark foliage, which make an ideal<br />
background for hundreds of brilliant,<br />
glowing, red bracts. Plant grows vigorously<br />
from 3 to 5 feet high. ‘La Jolla’, with<br />
red bracts, is similar but more compact. It<br />
is good in containers.<br />
Campsis radicans<br />
20°<br />
trumpet vine<br />
This southeastern United States native<br />
is tolerant of the harsh summer growing<br />
Below left: Bougainvillea<br />
species, bougainvillea.<br />
Below: Campsis<br />
radicans, trumpet vine.<br />
Vines u 101
Below right: Mascagnia<br />
macroptera, yellow<br />
orchid vine.<br />
Below center:<br />
Macfadyena unguiscati,<br />
catclaw.<br />
Below: Gelsemium<br />
sempervirens, Carolina<br />
jessamine.<br />
conditions in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. It is<br />
vigorous and self-climbing to 20 feet or<br />
more high and wide. The dark green leaves<br />
are deciduous in winter. Clusters of 3-inch,<br />
orange or red flowers bloom summer and<br />
fall and are pollinated by hummingbirds.<br />
Rapid growth rate. Use as a color accent,<br />
shade or screening. Grows best in partial<br />
shade. Provide regular water to maintain<br />
flowers and dense foliage.<br />
Clytostoma<br />
callistegioides<br />
lavender<br />
20°<br />
trumpet vine<br />
(Bignonia violacea, B. speciosa). This<br />
evergreen vine accepts sun or shade. Pale<br />
lavender to violet, trumpet-shaped flowers<br />
3 inches long bloom in spring and summer,<br />
set off by glossy green leaves. It climbs<br />
by tendrils, then terminal shoots cascade<br />
downward for a curtainlike effect. Prune in<br />
late winter to control and to renew plants.<br />
Native to Brazil.<br />
Gelsemium<br />
sempervirens<br />
10°<br />
carolina jessamine<br />
An evergreen, twining vine with rich green<br />
leaves. Climbs to about 20 feet, but does<br />
require support. Profusion of trumpetshaped,<br />
bright yellow, fragrant flowers<br />
bloom in late winter to early spring. Does<br />
best in partial shade in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>. Cut back severely if it becomes too<br />
heavy. Note that all plant parts are poisonous.<br />
Native to southeastern U.S.<br />
Hardenbergia violacea<br />
20°<br />
lilac vine<br />
An evergreen vine with long, rich green<br />
leaves. Bark is a rich cinnamon brown.<br />
Climbs by twining to 10 feet in just one<br />
year, but requires support. Dense clusters<br />
of sweet pealike, bright lilac-purple flowers<br />
bloom in late winter to early spring.<br />
Wonderful evergreen cover on arbors,<br />
especially as it ages and the richly colored<br />
bark gets to show off. Accepts some shade.<br />
Cultivars are available in shades of white,<br />
pink and blue. Native to Australia.<br />
Jasminum mesnyi<br />
15°<br />
primrose jasmine<br />
(Jasminum primulinum). Fast growing,<br />
reaching to 10 feet in the first year, with<br />
medium green leaves and large yellow<br />
flowers bloom in late winter. A sprawling<br />
vine, it can be tied onto trellises. Controls<br />
erosion on banks, cascading down them.<br />
Left alone, it develops into a large, fountain-shaped<br />
shrub. Accepts some shade.<br />
Native to western China.<br />
102 u Success with Desert Plants
Lonicera japonica<br />
‘Halliana’<br />
20°<br />
hall’s honeysuckle<br />
Vigorous, twining, evergreen vine that is<br />
occasionally grown as a rampant ground<br />
cover. Fast cover on fences and trellises.<br />
Renew growth by cutting plants back<br />
severely in late winter every year or two.<br />
Highly fragrant flowers are pure white<br />
then quickly turn golden yellow. They are<br />
most profuse in spring, blooming sporadically<br />
in summer. Medium green foliage.<br />
Accepts full sun to partial shade.<br />
Macfadyena<br />
unguis-cati<br />
15°<br />
catclaw<br />
Dense green foliage shows off bright yellow<br />
flowers that cover the plant in spring,<br />
although flowering is profuse, the season<br />
is short lived. Rapid, vigorous growth with<br />
clinging rootlets, it can spread 30 to 40 feet<br />
vertically or horizontally. Best on chain<br />
link fence or brick—it has been known to<br />
pull stucco off walls. Native to Central and<br />
South America.<br />
Mascagnia macroptera<br />
22°<br />
yellow orchid vine<br />
(Callaeum macropterum). Twining vine<br />
with small, interesting, medium green<br />
leaves. Use on a trellis, chain-link fence<br />
or any upright support. Accepts some<br />
shade. Dense clusters of showy, yellow,<br />
orchid-shaped flowers appear in spring (if<br />
plants did not freeze the previous winter),<br />
and in fall. Remove frost-damaged leaves<br />
and stems in late winter or early spring.<br />
Moderately fast grower, reaching 15 feet<br />
in a year. Native to Mexico.<br />
A similar plant is Mascagnia lilacina,<br />
purple orchid vine. It is about the same<br />
size and habit as yellow orchid vine, but is<br />
more cold hardy and flowers are purple.<br />
Merremia aurea<br />
25°<br />
merremia<br />
This vine can grow to 25 feet or more with<br />
support. Bright yellow, 2-inch, morning<br />
glory-type flowers bloom summer and fall,<br />
accompanied by dense, bright green leaves<br />
divided into five leaflets. Requires full<br />
sun for good growth and flowers. Regular<br />
water during growing season is necessary<br />
for flower production. Plant near a wall,<br />
fence or other structure on which to climb.<br />
Fast growth allows its use as wind or<br />
sun screen. Control rampant growth with<br />
pruning. Remove frost-killed vegetation in<br />
spring after danger of frost has passed—<br />
plants recover quickly. Native of southern<br />
half of Baja California.<br />
Also consider Merremia dissecta, milea-minute<br />
vine, with white flowers.<br />
Below left (bottom):<br />
Hardenbergia violacea,<br />
lilac vine.<br />
Below left (top): Lonicera<br />
japonica ÔHallianaÕ,<br />
HallÕs honeysuckle.<br />
Below center: Jasminum<br />
mesnyi, primrose<br />
jasmine.<br />
Below: Merremia aurea,<br />
merremia.<br />
Vines u 103
Above right: Rosa banksiae,<br />
Lady BanksÕ rose.<br />
Above left: Passiflora X<br />
alatocaerulea, passion<br />
flower vine.<br />
Above: Podranea<br />
ricasoliana, pink<br />
trumpet vine.<br />
Parthenocissus<br />
tricuspidata<br />
‘Hacienda Creeper’<br />
25°<br />
hacienda creeper<br />
This cultivar of Boston ivy is semievergreen.<br />
A vigorous, clinging vine that will<br />
attach itself to masonry walls and stonework.<br />
Bright green, compound leaves turn<br />
to vivid shades of red and orange in fall.<br />
Locate where plants will receive some<br />
shade, preferably in the afternoon. Hybrid<br />
of parents native to China.<br />
Passiflora X<br />
alatocaerulea<br />
25°<br />
passion flower vine<br />
(Passiflora pfordtii). Twining evergreen vine<br />
rapidly growing to 30 feet in a single year.<br />
Foliage has a tropical look with three<br />
parted, bright green leaves. Masses of 4-<br />
inch, spectacular flowers bloom in summer<br />
and are used to make perfume. Flowers are<br />
pink tinged white, with a crown of purple.<br />
Accepts some shade. Protect from wind.<br />
Hybrid of P. alata of Peru and P. caerulea<br />
of Brazil.<br />
Passiflora foetida<br />
longipedunculata<br />
25°<br />
baja passion vine<br />
This evergreen twining vine can grow to<br />
10 feet in a year. The gray-green leaves<br />
are velvety and provide a nice backdrop<br />
to the white with lavender blooms that last<br />
through the warm season. It can freeze<br />
to the ground, but will rapidly recover<br />
in spring. Accepts some shade. Native to<br />
Baja California.<br />
Podranea ricasoliana<br />
25°<br />
pink trumpet vine<br />
Twining vine with stems up to 20 feet<br />
long. Rich green leaves are divided into<br />
9 to 11 leaflets. Clusters of pink flowers<br />
to 2 inches long bloom summer and fall.<br />
Stems damaged by frost recover rapidly in<br />
spring. Use on a trellis or chainlink fence,<br />
tying stems in place. Ideal plant for highwater,<br />
mini-oasis garden location. Native<br />
to southern Africa.<br />
Rosa banksiae<br />
lady banks’ rose,<br />
10°<br />
tombstone rose<br />
Provide this popular evergreen to semideciduous<br />
vine with sturdy supports as it<br />
grows vigorously to 10 to 25 feet. Lady<br />
Banks’ rose is suited to large-scale landscapes,<br />
where it can spread out or climb an<br />
arbor. This rose produces no thorns, so it is<br />
fine to use near pedestrian traffic areas or<br />
by pools. Native to China.<br />
‘Lutea’ blankets plants with double pale<br />
yellow flowers in spring. ‘Alba Plena’ has<br />
double white flowers. Native to China.<br />
Trachelospermum<br />
jasminoides<br />
25°<br />
star jasmine<br />
(Rhynchospermum jasminoides). Lustrous,<br />
104 u Success with Desert Plants
deep green, leathery foliage, this plant is<br />
most admired for its masses of white, highly<br />
perfumed, star-shaped flowers, which<br />
bloom most heavily in spring. Versatile<br />
uses include espalier, pillar support vine or<br />
ground cover. Needs support such as a trellis<br />
on which to climb. Best on east or north<br />
exposures. Native to China.<br />
Vigna caracalla<br />
20°<br />
snail vine<br />
(Phaseolus caracalla). Snail vine is a vigorous,<br />
twining plant, reaching 30 feet in a<br />
year. With a foliage effect similar to the<br />
vegetable pole bean, it makes an excellent<br />
screen. Masses of slightly fragrant, showy,<br />
lavender flowers bloom throughout the<br />
year. Excellent trained on wire fences or on<br />
banks. Remains evergreen in mild winters.<br />
If frost kills top growth, cut back in early<br />
spring to rejuvenate growth. Occasionally<br />
mislabeled as Phaseolus gigantea. Native<br />
to tropical South America.<br />
Vitis californica<br />
20°<br />
california wild grape<br />
Climbing by tendrils, wild grape can reach<br />
30 feet in a summer. Grow it for the foliage,<br />
not the tiny, tart fruit. Leaves emerge<br />
gray and brighten to green, then turn red in<br />
fall and drop. Vines regrow the following<br />
spring. ‘Rogers Red’ holds its gray-green<br />
leaf color all summer, then turns brilliant<br />
red and orange in fall. Native to California<br />
and Oregon.<br />
Vitis vinifera<br />
20°<br />
grape<br />
This deciduous vine is grown for its fruit, as<br />
well as for the lush, heart-shaped medium<br />
green leaves. It clings by tendrils, growing<br />
vigorously to 10 to 20 feet, supplying<br />
cooling summer shade. Provide vines with<br />
a sturdy support structure. Prune canes<br />
in winter. Grape leaf skeletonizers arrive<br />
in waves during summer to quickly strip<br />
leaves. Watch for the small, blue-black,<br />
slow-moving moths that lay the eggs.<br />
Native to the Mediterranean.<br />
Wisteria floribunda<br />
20°<br />
japanese wisteria<br />
The bright green foliage of Japanese<br />
wisteria is deciduous. Twining, woody<br />
growth reaches to 25 feet. Native to Japan.<br />
‘Longissima Alba’ is impressive with its<br />
pure white flowers that cascade in spikes<br />
to 4 feet long. ‘Royal Purple’ attracts attention<br />
with long, violet-purple flowers in<br />
spring. Often sold as W. multijuga.<br />
Wisteria sinensis<br />
25°<br />
chinese wisteria<br />
This is the more commonly grown wisteria<br />
in the West. It has a twining and deciduous<br />
form with medium green foliage. Needs<br />
support to grow; such as on top of an arbor.<br />
It reaches up to 30 feet long. In spring,<br />
puts on a show of purple or white flowers,<br />
depending on cultivar. Native to China.<br />
Above left:<br />
Parthenocissus<br />
tricuspidata<br />
ÔHacienda CreeperÕ.<br />
Above center: Vigna<br />
caracalla, snail vine.<br />
Above right: Passiflora<br />
foetida longipedunculata,<br />
baja passion vine.<br />
Above: Wisteria<br />
floribunda,<br />
Japanese wisteria.<br />
Vines u 105
C A C T I & S U C C U L E N T S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Cacti and other succulents are excellent<br />
choices for a low-water, lowmaintenance<br />
landscape. In fact, their<br />
low-water rating is actually lower<br />
than other plants. <strong>Water</strong> most cacti,<br />
for example, about every two weeks in<br />
summer. From a design standpoint,<br />
most are bold accents; others are<br />
almost shrublike. Some are attractive<br />
clustered together in groups or even<br />
as a mass planting; others are more<br />
effective planted as single specimens.<br />
Resist the temptation to get one of each<br />
and drop them here and there about the<br />
yard. The result becomes an unnatural<br />
and unappealing hodge podge. Use<br />
cacti and succulents as exclamation<br />
points in the landscape, or partner with<br />
flowering perennials and shrubs.<br />
106 u Success with Desert Plants
Agave species<br />
Agave<br />
Agaves are also known as century plants.<br />
Although most live far less than a century,<br />
they do endure for many years, slowly storing<br />
energy and getting larger. They finally<br />
spend their energy in one massive flowering<br />
event. Depending on the species, they<br />
grow a single large flower stalk up to 15<br />
to 30 feet high, offering flowers for pollination<br />
by hummingbirds, other birds, and<br />
bats. After flowering, the plant dies.<br />
Some agaves like to hedge their bets<br />
when it comes to reproduction. Before<br />
they flower they also produce a number of<br />
small offsets called pups around their base.<br />
If you prefer, you can select a species that<br />
is “solitary” and does not produce pups as<br />
readily.<br />
Most agaves have sharp spines on the tips<br />
of their leaves. Many also have teeth along<br />
the leaf margin. This can make them beautiful<br />
to behold but dangerous to be near.<br />
Locate them well away from walkways or<br />
gathering areas, and allow for their mature<br />
size. Unlike a shrub or ground cover, you<br />
cannot trim or prune agaves back to suit a<br />
small space. You must learn to live with it,<br />
or remove it.<br />
Agave americana<br />
15°<br />
century plant<br />
Grayish blue-green leaf blades with spines<br />
on tips and margins. With time, grows to 10<br />
feet high and spreads to 15 feet wide—too<br />
large for many gardens. Average life span<br />
is 20 years. A number of slightly smaller,<br />
variegated varieties of A. americana are<br />
available. Native to Mexico, but naturalized<br />
in mild-winter climates worldwide.<br />
Agave americana<br />
marginata<br />
variegated<br />
15°<br />
century plant<br />
Grayish blue-green leaf blades feature a<br />
stripe of yellow down both sides of every<br />
leaf. Plant reaches to 10 feet high and 13<br />
feet wide. Because of its large size, locate<br />
it carefully. Accepts some shade.<br />
Agave americana<br />
mediopicta<br />
mediopicta variegated<br />
15°<br />
century plant<br />
Grayish, blue-green leaf blades feature a<br />
stripe of yellow down the middle of every<br />
leaf, as compared to the leaf margins of<br />
A. americana marginata. Plant reaches 4<br />
feet high and 4 feet wide. Accepts some<br />
shade.<br />
Below left: Agave<br />
americana mediopicta,<br />
mediopicta variegated<br />
century plant.<br />
Below: Agave<br />
americana marginata,<br />
variegated century plant.<br />
Cacti & Succulents u 107
Below right: Agave<br />
vilmoriniana, octopus<br />
agave.<br />
Below left: Agave<br />
colorata, mescal ceniza.<br />
Below: Agave murpheyi,<br />
MurpheyÕs<br />
agave.<br />
Agave colorata<br />
15°<br />
mescal ceniza<br />
Broad, blue-gray leaf blades are edged<br />
with intricate dark brown teeth that leave<br />
embossed patterns on the leaf they were<br />
pressed against in the bud. Solitary plants<br />
form an angular yet compact rosette 4 feet<br />
high and 4 feet wide. Slow to moderate<br />
growth rate. Native to Sonora, Mexico.<br />
Agave geminiflora<br />
20°<br />
twin-flowered agave<br />
Narrow, medium green leaves have sharp<br />
tips but toothless edges. Occasionally, the<br />
leaves are graced with fine white marginal<br />
fibers. Solitary plants reach 3 feet high<br />
and 3 feet wide with a moderate to rapid<br />
growth rate. Tolerates a range of exposures.<br />
In full or reflected sun, the rosettes<br />
are tight and compact. Plants in full shade<br />
have a more open and relaxed growth<br />
habit. Can be grown as a container plant.<br />
Native to west-central Mexico.<br />
Agave murpheyi<br />
10°<br />
murphey’s agave<br />
Medium wide leaves are bluish to yellow<br />
green with spines on the tip and many fine<br />
teeth along the edges. Slow to moderate<br />
growers, plants reach 3 feet high and 3 feet<br />
wide. Pups form readily from the base, but<br />
also can be found on the flowering stalk.<br />
Accepts some shade. These were once<br />
cultivated by native indians in Arizona.<br />
Native to Arizona and Sonora, Mexico.<br />
Agave parryi<br />
parry’s agave<br />
Broad, gray-green leaves are edged with<br />
brown teeth that leave embossed patterns<br />
on the leaf they were pressed against in<br />
the bud. Forming compact, nearly round<br />
rosettes, individual plants reach 3 feet high<br />
and as wide, and can pup readily into large<br />
colonies. Native from central Arizona into<br />
New Mexico.<br />
Agave victoria-reginae<br />
10°<br />
queen victoria agave<br />
A compact, symmetrical little agave that<br />
does fine in containers or in the ground,<br />
and takes on quite a regal appearance. It is<br />
excellent for smaller spaces, and in filtered<br />
light under trees. The short, thick leaves<br />
have distinctive white markings and a<br />
single spine on the tips. The solitary plants<br />
reach 1 to 1 1/2 feet high and as wide.<br />
Native to Mexico.<br />
Agave vilmoriniana<br />
20°<br />
octopus agave<br />
Light green, fleshy, and unarmed, the<br />
leaves of the octopus agave elongate and<br />
curve back, arching with age, until the<br />
plant does look remarkably like a large<br />
green octopus. The solitary plants reach 4<br />
108 u Success with Desert Plants
feet high and spread to 6 feet wide with a<br />
slow to moderate growth rate. They flower<br />
when they are around a decade old. They<br />
do not pup from the base, but can easily be<br />
grown from pups called bulbils that appear<br />
on the flowering stalk. Native to west-central<br />
Mexico.<br />
Agave weberi<br />
20°<br />
weber’s agave<br />
One of the largest agaves, it makes a dramatic<br />
accent with broad, blue-green leaves<br />
that form a neater rosette than Agave<br />
americana. Leaf edges have many fine teeth.<br />
Individual plants reach 5 feet high and 5 feet<br />
wide with a slow to moderate growth rate.<br />
Needs occasional watering to look its best.<br />
Accepts some shade. Occasionally produces<br />
pups. Native to east central Mexico.<br />
Aloe species<br />
Aloe<br />
Aloes are highly variable in form, size, color<br />
and texture. Some species make dramatic<br />
accents, such as Aloe ferox, while others,<br />
including Aloe vera and Aloe variegata,<br />
look their best massed in large beds. Many<br />
do well in containers. Once they are mature,<br />
they flower every year with long stalks of<br />
flowers pollinated by hummingbirds. Not<br />
all aloes are medicinal such as Aloe vera—<br />
some are used to make poison darts! Aloe<br />
mite can be a problem with some species.<br />
All aloes are native to Africa.<br />
Aloe arborescens<br />
30°<br />
tree aloe<br />
Thick, fleshy leaves are usually gray-green<br />
although they can vary with subspecies;<br />
some are sea green to lime green. Leaves<br />
are 2 inches wide and 2 feet long with regular<br />
gray teeth along the margins. Growth<br />
is upright and bases become woody. In<br />
their native South Africa, ancient plants<br />
reach 3 to 14 feet high, topped in winter<br />
with tall spikes of red flowers.<br />
Aloe dawei<br />
25°<br />
dawe’s aloe<br />
This is a dramatic aloe for winter color,<br />
with tall, branched spikes of fiery, orangered<br />
tubular flowers December through<br />
February. Hummingbirds adore the flowers<br />
rich in nectar. Long, narrow, bright<br />
green leaves are edged with small teeth,<br />
forming an almost shrublike cluster to 3<br />
feet high and as wide. Does best with afternoon<br />
shade and water every two to three<br />
weeks in summer. Native to Uganda.<br />
Aloe ferox<br />
25°<br />
cape aloe<br />
A slow-growing, solitary aloe that eventu-<br />
Below left: Agave<br />
parryi, ParryÕs agave.<br />
Below center: (bottom):<br />
Agave weberi, WeberÕs<br />
agave.<br />
Below center: (top):<br />
Agave geminiflora,<br />
twin-flowered agave.<br />
Below right: Aloe ferox,<br />
cape aloe.<br />
Cacti & Succulents u 109
Above right: Carnegiea<br />
gigantea, saguaro cactus<br />
(ocotillo at right).<br />
Above center: Aloe vera,<br />
aloe vera.<br />
Above left (top): Asclepias<br />
subulata, desert milkweed.<br />
Above: Aloe variegata,<br />
partridge breast aloe.<br />
ally becomes treelike to 12 feet high and<br />
5 feet wide. Thick, wide, bluish green<br />
leaves are edged with russet-colored teeth.<br />
Hummingbirds love the flaming orangered<br />
flowers that appear clustered on a tall<br />
stalk from late winter into spring. Locate<br />
where plants will receive afternoon shade<br />
and water once a month in summer for best<br />
appearance. Native to the South African<br />
Cape.<br />
Aloe variegata<br />
20°<br />
partridge breast aloe<br />
This small aloe likes the protected understory<br />
environment beneath canopy trees or<br />
shrubs. It reaches 1 foot high and as wide<br />
with gray-green, triangular leaves decorated<br />
with white markings. Plants slowly form<br />
clumping colonies that produce spikes of<br />
coral-pink flowers in spring and again in<br />
fall, attracting hummingbirds. Provide protection<br />
from the afternoon sun. Excellent<br />
in a rock garden or mixed in with spring<br />
wildflowers. Native to South Africa.<br />
Aloe vera<br />
25°<br />
aloe vera, true aloe<br />
(A. barbadensis). Long, slender, graygreen<br />
leaves unmarked by any spots combined<br />
with yellow flowers lets you know<br />
this is the true medicinal aloe. Grows<br />
to 3 feet high, spreading to 3 feet wide.<br />
Flowers bloom late winter and into spring,<br />
appearing on spikes up to 2 feet high above<br />
the plant. Accepts full sun to part shade;<br />
provide supplemental water in summer<br />
to those plants located in full sun. Native<br />
to Mesopotamia, and traded throughout<br />
Africa, Asia and Europe.<br />
Asclepias linearis<br />
20°<br />
threadleaf milkweed<br />
A bright green, fine-textured plant that<br />
can be used as an accent or backdrop<br />
in a water-efficient landscape. Soft, fine,<br />
threadlike leaves are held rigidly out from<br />
the multiple stems that form a shrublike<br />
clump to 3 feet high and as wide. Clusters<br />
of small white flowers appear on branch<br />
ends from spring into fall, and are a favorite<br />
of both queen and monarch butterflies.<br />
Native to southern Arizona.<br />
Asclepias subulata<br />
25°<br />
desert milkweed<br />
Grows to 4 feet high with slender, graygreen<br />
stems. Pale yellow, flat-topped flowers<br />
bloom in clusters from spring into<br />
fall. Seed pods to 3 inches long split and<br />
send out silvery seed fluffs. Great accent<br />
around rock-studded drainage swales or<br />
courtyards. Good soil drainage required.<br />
Attracts queen and monarch butterflies,<br />
especially if they are planted in a mass.<br />
Native to the Sonoran Desert.<br />
110 u Success with Desert Plants
Bulbine frutescens<br />
10°<br />
bulbine<br />
Long stalks of delicate yellow or orange<br />
flowers appear in spring, forming clumps<br />
to 18 inches high. Leaves of orange-flowering<br />
forms are more gray-green and are<br />
more tolerant of full sun. Leaves of yellow-flowering<br />
forms are brighter green<br />
and do better with some shade. Both grow<br />
best in well-drained soil. Can be grown in<br />
containers. Native to South Africa.<br />
Carnegiea gigantea<br />
15°<br />
saguaro cactus<br />
This columnar cactus is a well-known<br />
symbol of the Southwest. Extremely slow<br />
growing 50 to 60 feet high, it towers over<br />
the desert landscape. A saguaro may take<br />
30 years to reach 10 feet high and be<br />
mature enough to flower. Large, white,<br />
bat-pollinated flowers appear wreathlike<br />
atop arms in May, followed by edible red<br />
fruit. Avoid winter irrigation, but supply<br />
monthly water in summer. Requires good<br />
soil drainage. Young plants can freeze at<br />
30°F. In nature, they survive freezes and<br />
intense summer heat by growing under a<br />
“nurse tree.” Native to Sonoran Desert.<br />
Cereus<br />
hildmannianus<br />
25°<br />
hildmann’s cereus<br />
A fast-growing, columnar, clumping cactus.<br />
Each column is up to 10 feet tall and<br />
6 to 8 inches around. However, the entire<br />
plant can spread to 10 feet wide. During<br />
summer, large, showy white flowers open<br />
at night and fade by the next morning. A<br />
large, luscious, watermelon-flavored fruit<br />
follows the flowers, if they have been<br />
pollinated. Accepts some shade. Native to<br />
eastern South America.<br />
Dasylirion<br />
longissimum<br />
15°<br />
grass tree<br />
(Dasylirion quadrangulatum). Dramatic,<br />
tropical-looking accent plant that eventually<br />
can reach over 10 feet high, topped<br />
with a whorl of long, slender, dark green,<br />
grasslike leaves. Although it only needs<br />
8 to 10 inches of rainfall per year, it will<br />
tolerate more water, so it can be combined<br />
with other, more lush, tropical plants for<br />
great effect. Also accepts shade to part<br />
shade exposures. Native to Mexico.<br />
Dasylirion species<br />
desert spoon,<br />
0°<br />
sotol<br />
Both of the following species are quite<br />
similar in appearance. They grow slowly,<br />
eventually developing a trunk. Mature size<br />
is 4 to 6 feet high, spreading to 5 feet wide.<br />
Once mature, flower spikes to 12 feet high<br />
appear in late fall, but age at which plants<br />
actually begin to bloom is unpredictable.<br />
Dasylirion acrotriche, green desert<br />
spoon, is almost identical to desert spoon:<br />
Its leaves are bright green rather than<br />
gray-green. Select this one if you seek a<br />
subtropical landscape effect.<br />
Dasylirion wheeleri, desert spoon, has<br />
narrow, gray-green leaves that are sharply<br />
Below left: Bulbine frutescens,<br />
bulbine.<br />
Below center: Cereus<br />
hildmannianus, HildmannÕs<br />
cereus.<br />
Below right: Dasylirion<br />
wheeleri, desert spoon.<br />
Below: Dasylirion<br />
longissimum, grass tree.<br />
Cacti & Succulents u 111
Below right: Euphorbia<br />
rigida, gopher plant.<br />
Below left: Echinocactus<br />
grusonii, golden barrel<br />
cactus.<br />
Below: Ferocactus<br />
wislizenii, fish-hook<br />
barrel cactus.<br />
toothed along the edges. It is highly attractive<br />
in a desert setting. Both are native to<br />
southern Arizona.<br />
Echinocactus grusonii<br />
18°<br />
golden barrel cactus<br />
One of the best cactus for a bold accent<br />
in the landscape due to its symmetrical,<br />
globular shape and brilliant, golden spines<br />
that light up in the sun. Grows slowly to 3<br />
feet high or more, but remains a manageable<br />
size in most gardens for many years.<br />
Small yellow flowers appear in spring on<br />
the fuzzy crown of mature plants. Plant<br />
in sandy, well-drained soil. <strong>Water</strong> infrequently,<br />
perhaps once a month, slightly<br />
more often during summer. Native to<br />
Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Echinocereus<br />
englemannii<br />
10°<br />
engelmann’s hedgehog<br />
A short, clumping cactus that stops traffic<br />
when its large, brilliant, magenta flowers<br />
appear in May. A plant may reach 1 foot<br />
high to 8 inches across, but clumps can<br />
eventually spread several feet wide. Long,<br />
gray, downward-pointing spines show<br />
bands of red after a rain. Accepts some<br />
shade. Native to Sonoran Desert.<br />
Euphorbia rigida<br />
0°<br />
gopher plant<br />
(E. biglandulosa). Unique spring-flowering<br />
perennial with blue-gray, textured<br />
vertical and spreading branches that grow<br />
2 feet high by 4 feet wide. Flowers on<br />
tips of branches are brilliant chrome<br />
yellow. Most effective in a sunny spot.<br />
Mass in small areas in well-drained soil<br />
or plant in containers. After flowers complete<br />
bloom cycle, cut back branches<br />
to encourage new growth. Native to the<br />
Mediterranean.<br />
Ferocactus<br />
cylindraceus<br />
10°<br />
compass barrel<br />
(F. acanthodes). At home in natural desert<br />
landscapes, this stout, barrel-shaped cactus<br />
is a subtle accent in a water-efficient<br />
garden. Slow growing to 4 feet high by<br />
1-1/2 feet wide. Plants tend to lean southward<br />
with time, giving them their common<br />
name. Spines are straight and reddish yellow.<br />
Yellow to orange flowers appear in<br />
May, followed by fruits with many, tiny,<br />
edible seeds inside. Natives would roast<br />
and eat the seeds. Avoid overwatering.<br />
Native to Sonoran and Mohave Deserts.<br />
Ferocactus wislizenii<br />
fish-hook<br />
0°<br />
barrel cactus<br />
This cactus looks much like the compass<br />
barrel, except the spines are curved in<br />
a fish hook shape. And, with time (several<br />
decades), it eventually reaches 10<br />
feet high. Spring flowers are yellow to<br />
orange, followed by yellow, tart, edible<br />
112 u Success with Desert Plants
fruit filled with thousands of tiny black<br />
seeds. Avoid overwatering or plants may<br />
rot and die. Plant in sandy, well-drained<br />
soil. Native from Arizona into west Texas<br />
and Mexico.<br />
Fouquieria splendens<br />
10°<br />
ocotillo<br />
Ocotillo is one of the most distinctive<br />
plants of the desert Southwest, and helps<br />
provide the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> with a definite<br />
sense of place. A few to many, unbranched<br />
thorny canes, 10 to 15 feet long, arch up<br />
out and away from the plant’s base, creating<br />
a strong, vase shape. Small, bright<br />
green leaves cover the canes during periods<br />
of rain and humidity. Leaves drop<br />
during dry conditions as plants become<br />
dormant. Spikes of flame orange flowers<br />
that attract hummingbirds bloom at branch<br />
tips during spring. An excellent accent<br />
plant, especially when backlit by the sun.<br />
Prefers rocky limestone soils. Canes can<br />
be cut and used to create living fences.<br />
Note that plants grown in containers establish<br />
better than bare root plants. Native to<br />
southwestern U.S.<br />
Hesperaloe parviflora<br />
15°<br />
red yucca<br />
This succulent is not a yucca, but in the<br />
agave family. It is a workhorse accent<br />
plant, flowering tirelessly. Long, slender,<br />
swordlike leaves are edged with loose,<br />
curling white threads. Plants form clumps<br />
to 3 feet high and spread slowly to 5 feet<br />
or more. Red yucca is a long-term color<br />
provider with tall spikes of coral-pink<br />
flowers from late spring into late summer.<br />
The bell-shaped flowers are loved by<br />
hummingbirds. A variety with pale yellow<br />
flowers is also available. Native to Texas.<br />
Hesperaloe funifera, giant hesperaloe, is<br />
similar but larger, reaching to 6 feet high<br />
and as wide. Leaves are upright, thicker<br />
and swordlike. Wide-spreading flower<br />
stalks to 10 feet high are topped with<br />
greenish white blooms late spring to summer.<br />
Native to the Chihuahuan Desert.<br />
Nolina microcarpa<br />
bear grass<br />
Narrow, grasslike leaves to 3 feet long form<br />
a fountain-shaped mound 3 to 6 feet high,<br />
spreading 5 to 8 feet wide. Leaf margins<br />
are covered with microscopic teeth. Stems<br />
rise 4 to 5 feet above the dense rosette<br />
clumps of small, creamy yellow flowers,<br />
which are striking in form, not in color.<br />
Plants thrive in gravelly, sandy, well-draining<br />
soil. Native to southwest U.S.<br />
Opuntia species<br />
Prickly Pear<br />
There are well over 200 varieties of prickly<br />
pear. Some have blue-gray pads, some<br />
Below left: Hesperaloe<br />
parviflora, red yucca.<br />
Below center: Nolina<br />
microcarpa, bear grass.<br />
Bottom right: Fouquieria<br />
splendens, ocotillo.<br />
Below: Echinocereus<br />
engelmannii,<br />
EngelmannÕs hedgehog.<br />
Cacti & Succulents u 113
Below right: Opuntia<br />
species, opuntia.<br />
Below center (bottom):<br />
Portulacaria afra,<br />
elephantÕs food.<br />
Below center (top):<br />
Opuntia ficus-indica,<br />
indian fig.<br />
Below left: Opuntia<br />
basilaris, beavertail<br />
prickly pear.<br />
are bright green and others are tinged with<br />
violet. Cup-shaped flowers appear in May<br />
and bloom in shades of yellow, orange or<br />
magenta. All cactus family spines grow<br />
out of a cluster called an aureole. Some<br />
species lack long spines but have glochids<br />
instead. These are like porcupine quills, in<br />
that they are barbed to go further in, not<br />
out. If you are unfortunate enough to come<br />
in contact with these tiny spines, removing<br />
them from your skin is difficult. One method<br />
seems to work: Coat the area with white<br />
glue, let it dry, then peel them away.<br />
Opuntia basilaris<br />
10°<br />
beavertail prickly pear<br />
Typically blue-gray or deep green pads<br />
with aureoles of glochids. (See above.)<br />
Brilliant magenta flowers appear in May.<br />
Grows to 1 foot high and spreads to 4 feet<br />
wide, taking the form and space of a small<br />
shrub in the landscape. Native to southwest<br />
U.S.<br />
Opuntia engelmannii<br />
engelmann’s<br />
10°<br />
prickly pear<br />
Classic green pads with widely spaced,<br />
gray-white thorns. Pads are crowned in<br />
spring with yellow flowers followed by<br />
magenta fruit. Desert tortoises adore the<br />
sweet fruit, and people use the fruit to<br />
make jelly and candy. Reaches 4 feet<br />
high and spreads to 8 feet wide. Takes<br />
the form and space of a medium-sized<br />
shrub in the landscape. Native to southwest<br />
U.S.<br />
Opuntia ficus-indica<br />
22°<br />
indian fig<br />
The name refers to the edible fruit called<br />
“tuna,” which were relished by the ancient<br />
Aztecs. This tall, almost tree-like prickly<br />
pear reaches up to 15 feet high and as wide.<br />
This species is thornless. Cup-shaped yellow<br />
to orange flowers are followed by fruit<br />
that slowly turn from green to yellow to<br />
a purplish red. It is uncertain where this<br />
plant originated. It is a horticultural selection<br />
discovered and cultivated in tropical<br />
and subtropical America.<br />
Pachycereus<br />
marginatus<br />
20°<br />
mexican fencepost<br />
This is a fast growing, handsome, dark<br />
green, columnar cactus. It can reach 10<br />
feet high and branching from the base<br />
can spread to 6 feet wide, although each<br />
column is about 6 inches in diameter. The<br />
4 to 6 ribs of each column are decorated<br />
with small white spines. Pink flowers<br />
114 u Success with Desert Plants
appear in spring. Use as a bold, dramatic<br />
accent in the ground or in a container.<br />
Plant along a wall for spectacular shadows.<br />
Extra arms are easy to remove with<br />
a pruning saw, and can then be planted<br />
directly in a new site. Native to southern<br />
Mexico.<br />
Pachypodium lamerei<br />
35°<br />
madagascar palm<br />
This distinctive member of the oleander<br />
family has gray bark and a swollen trunk<br />
where it stores water. The crown of large<br />
leaves on top and paired spines along the<br />
stem give it its unique appearance. Slow<br />
growing from 10 to 15 feet high, the diameter<br />
remains about 2 feet wide. Protect<br />
from cold when temperatures drop near<br />
freezing. Or, if grown in a container, move<br />
to a warmer location when frost threatens.<br />
Plant in well-drained soil. Accepts some<br />
shade. Native to southern Africa.<br />
Pedilanthus<br />
macrocarpus<br />
25°<br />
slipper flower<br />
A striking succulent that forms a clump<br />
of mostly leafless, upright, silvery green<br />
stems about the diameter of your index finger.<br />
Stems reach 2 to 3 feet high with the<br />
clump spreading slowly to 2 feet wide. The<br />
striking red “slippers” contain several tiny<br />
flowers, plus nectar that hummingbirds<br />
seek. They appear in late spring and occasionally<br />
summer into fall. Makes a fine<br />
container plant. Accepts some shade. Like<br />
most succulents, provide good drainage to<br />
avoid rot. Native to Baja California.<br />
Portulacaria afra<br />
28°<br />
elephant’s food<br />
This succulent is well adapted to the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. It’s an excellent container<br />
plant with an interesting, flowing growth<br />
habit that is at home among boulders and<br />
native plants. It is often confused with jade<br />
plant, Crassula argentea, which it resembles.<br />
Elephant’s food grows more rapidly,<br />
has more open growth, with limber, tapering<br />
branches. Stems are brownish, covered<br />
with 1/2-inch, glossy green, succulent<br />
leaves. Best with afternoon shade, but too<br />
much shade can cause plants to become<br />
straggly. Can suffer damage with exposure<br />
to intense sun. Native to South Africa.<br />
Stenocereus thurberi<br />
22°<br />
organ pipe cactus<br />
A slow-growing golden-green columnar<br />
cactus with narrow ribs and aureoles of<br />
Below left: Pachycereus<br />
marginatus, Mexican fencepost.<br />
Below center: Opuntia<br />
engelmannii,<br />
EngelmannÕs prickly<br />
pear.<br />
Below right: Pedilanthus<br />
macrocarpus, slipper<br />
flower.<br />
Cacti & Succulents u 115
Below right:<br />
Trichocereus huascha,<br />
Argentine hedgehog.<br />
Below center:<br />
Stenocereus thurberi,<br />
organ pipe cactus.<br />
Below left: Yucca<br />
baccata, banana yucca.<br />
small reddish brown spines. Individual<br />
columns are about 8 inches in diameter,<br />
and grow to 10 feet high. Clumps can<br />
spread to 10 feet wide with time. Pale pink<br />
flowers open at night in late spring. Native<br />
to Sonoran Desert.<br />
Trichocereus huascha<br />
10°<br />
argentine hedgehog<br />
(Echinopsis huascha). A clumping hedgehog<br />
cactus with golden spines covering an<br />
olive green body. They glow beautifully<br />
when backlit by the sun and can be quite<br />
dramatic. Huge glowing red to orange<br />
flowers appear in spring, each one lasting<br />
only a single day. Accepts some shade.<br />
Native to Argentina.<br />
Yucca species<br />
Yucca<br />
Yuccas are generally more cold tolerant<br />
than agaves. Indeed, some survive as far<br />
north as North Dakota. Yuccas may have<br />
spines on leaf tips, but never along the<br />
edges, as agaves often do. Yuccas can be<br />
solitary or form clumps from the base.<br />
Once mature, yuccas bloom every year<br />
with tall stalks of creamy white flowers.<br />
Leave the dried stalks on the plant for the<br />
favorite nesting place of native bumblebees,<br />
or use in dried arrangements. All<br />
yuccas are native to the Americas.<br />
Yucca aloifolia<br />
0°<br />
spanish bayonet<br />
Stiff, sharp-tipped, 2-inch leaves are bright<br />
green to blue green, and grow 1-1/2 to 2-<br />
1/2 feet long. This is a clumping yucca—<br />
individual plants reach to 10 feet high and<br />
4 feet across. Clumps may spread to cover<br />
20 feet. An ideal accent for large spaces,<br />
but best located well away from pedestrians<br />
due to their sharp spines.<br />
Variegated (striped) cultivars are available.<br />
Native to southwest U.S.<br />
Yucca baccata<br />
banana yucca<br />
(Y. arizonica). Stiff, erect, bluish green<br />
leaves are 1 inch wide and 2 feet long.<br />
Single plants grow to 3 feet high and to 5<br />
feet across. Forms stemless clumps with 2<br />
to 6 rosettes. The fleshy green to purple,<br />
bananalike fruits 4 to 6 inches long are<br />
edible. Prefers well-drained soil. Native to<br />
southwest U.S.<br />
Yucca elata<br />
soaptree yucca<br />
Refined, deep green leaves are almost<br />
grasslike. They are 1/2-inch wide but grow<br />
to 4 feet long, with threadlike fibers on the<br />
margins. As leaves grow in dense clusters<br />
at the tops of the trunk, the dead, golden<br />
to brown leaves cling tightly to the trunk,<br />
shading the plant. It is slow growing and<br />
rarely branches, reaching 6 to 20 feet high<br />
and 8 feet wide. Roots contain saponins<br />
116 u Success with Desert Plants
that can gently clean fine textiles. Native<br />
to Arizona and New Mexico.<br />
Yucca gloriosa<br />
20°<br />
spanish dagger<br />
Rosettes of bluish green, stiffly upright<br />
leaves are fleshy and grow to 2 feet long<br />
and 2 inches wide. This is a clumping<br />
yucca that grows at a moderate rate to 10<br />
feet high. Plant base becomes woody with<br />
age. Leave the tidy dead leaves in place—<br />
they help keep the plant cool. Native to<br />
southeastern U.S. from North Carolina<br />
into Florida.<br />
Yucca pallida<br />
0°<br />
pale-leaf yucca<br />
Pale blue-green leaves are flexible, and<br />
measure 1 inch wide by 1 foot long. This<br />
unusual yucca has finely serrated leaf margins<br />
that can be marked with light yellow<br />
to white. A clumping yucca, individuals<br />
reach 1 to 2 feet high and spread from 1 to<br />
3 feet wide. With ample water, clumps can<br />
get large, with up to 30 rosettes. Native to<br />
north central Texas.<br />
Yucca recurvifolia<br />
10°<br />
pendulous yucca<br />
(Y. pendula). Plants grow rapidly to 6 feet<br />
high. Dark, gray-green leaves with a bluish<br />
cast are 3 feet long and 2 to 3 inches wide.<br />
They have soft tips and a relaxed, pendulous<br />
nature. Solitary plants grow to 6 feet<br />
high and as wide. Trim off dead leaves for<br />
best appearance. Accepts shade. Native to<br />
southeast U.S.<br />
Yucca rigida<br />
0°<br />
blue yucca<br />
Powder blue leaves are stiff and sharp<br />
tipped, to 2 feet long and 2 inches wide.<br />
The solitary plants reach 12 feet high and<br />
spread to 5 feet wide. Older leaves dry and<br />
press against the trunk to help conserve<br />
water. This thatch should be left in place.<br />
Striking coloration and bold form make<br />
the blue yucca an outstanding accent plant.<br />
Native to northern central highlands of<br />
Mexico.<br />
Yucca whipplei<br />
10°<br />
our lord’s candle<br />
Slender, bluish gray-green leaves are 1 1/2<br />
feet long and 3/4 inch wide. They radiate<br />
from the base to form an attractive rosette<br />
2 feet high and 3 feet across. Like agaves,<br />
this yucca flowers once and dies, but generally<br />
a few pups (small plants) around the<br />
base insure the plant’s long-term survival<br />
in the landscape. Native to California,<br />
Arizona and Baja California.<br />
Above left (top): Yucca<br />
recurvifolia, pendulous<br />
yucca.<br />
Above left (bottom):<br />
Yucca pallida, pale-leaf<br />
yucca.<br />
Above center: Yucca<br />
rigida, blue yucca.<br />
Above: Yucca<br />
elata, soaptree yucca.<br />
Cacti & Succulents u 117
O R N A M E N T A L G R A S S E S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Ornamental grasses are often overlooked<br />
elements in a lush, water-efficient landscape.<br />
This is a shame, because grasses add such<br />
diversity and texture. They can soften the<br />
rigid outlines of cacti and succulents, and<br />
reinforce the arching, fountainlike theme<br />
offered by ocotillo or vase-shaped trees.<br />
Grasses also add color, depending on the species<br />
and season. Some have striking fall foliage,<br />
while others have persistent seed heads<br />
that dangle like golden ornaments for several<br />
months.<br />
Ornamental grasses need only two things<br />
from the homeowner: regular water to help<br />
keep them looking good, and a “haircut” once<br />
each year in late winter.<br />
118 u Success with Desert Plants
Festuca glauca<br />
0°<br />
blue fescue<br />
(F. cinerea). A blue-gray, ornamental grass,<br />
growing in roundish tufts to 1 foot high,<br />
spreading to less than 1 foot wide (photo<br />
opposite, bottom left). Plants create an<br />
interesting pattern in borders or in the<br />
foreground of taller perennials and shrubs.<br />
Seedheads rise above clumps in the fall,<br />
creating a shaggy effect. Will not tolerate<br />
wet, poorly drained soil. Native to Europe.<br />
Imperata cylindrica<br />
‘Rubra’<br />
0°<br />
japanese blood grass<br />
Forms upright clumps 1 to 2 feet high,<br />
spreading to 1 foot wide. Leaves emerge<br />
green in spring and redden as the weather<br />
warms. Best color occurs in a sunny exposure.<br />
This cultivar rarely flowers. Spreads<br />
by underground runners. Native to Japan.<br />
Muhlenbergia<br />
capillaris<br />
0°<br />
pink muhley<br />
Plant this traffic stopper for its graceful,<br />
fluffy, purple to pink plumes. They put on<br />
a show of color in late summer and fall.<br />
Locate plants where the sun will backlight<br />
the flower heads. Grows 3 to 4 feet high<br />
and as wide. This large size makes it excellent<br />
for large home landscapes and public<br />
areas such as golf courses.Native to Texas<br />
and northern Mexico. ‘Regal Mist’ is a<br />
popular cultivar (photo opposite, top left).<br />
Muhlenbergia<br />
emersleyi<br />
0°<br />
bull grass<br />
Graceful, evergreen leaves clump to 4 feet<br />
high or more with equal spread. Delicate,<br />
loose, reddish flower plumes reach a foot<br />
or two above the leaves in the fall. As they<br />
age they turn a cream color. Ideal among<br />
boulders (photo opposite, top right).<br />
Prefers afternoon shade in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>. Native to Texas.<br />
Muhlenbergia<br />
lindheimeri<br />
0°<br />
lindheimer muhley<br />
Strong vertical form with slender leaves.<br />
Large clumps reach 5 feet high and as<br />
wide. Dense, fluffy, golden plumes evoke a<br />
dwarfish version of pampas grass. Accepts<br />
some shade. Native to Texas. An improved<br />
cultivar is ‘Autumn Glow’.<br />
Muhlenbergia rigens<br />
0°<br />
deer grass<br />
This workhorse grass becomes a graceful,<br />
fountain-shaped mound 3 to 4 feet high,<br />
spreading 4 to 5 feet wide. <strong>Lush</strong>, rich<br />
green foliage is a softening element in the<br />
landscape. Slender, upright flower spikes 1<br />
foot above the foliage in fall make a striking<br />
contrast to the curving mound (photo<br />
below). Accepts some shade. Native to<br />
southwestern U.S.<br />
Nassella tennuissima<br />
mexican thread grass<br />
(Stipa tenuissima). A fine-textured, billowy<br />
grass that forms upright clumps 2 feet high<br />
and as wide (photo below). Even a mild<br />
breeze will stir the leaves and delicate seed<br />
heads, adding motion to the landscape.<br />
Outstanding in a mass planting. Accepts<br />
some shade. Native to New Mexico.<br />
Pennisetum<br />
setaceum ‘Rubrum’<br />
20°<br />
red fountain grass<br />
Forms a large, dense clump 5 feet high<br />
and as wide with medium-textured foliage<br />
and coppery seed heads. The species has<br />
become a rampant pest in parts of the U.S.<br />
Before seeds mature, cut off flower heads,<br />
place them in a plastic bag and throw<br />
them away to prevent reseeding. However,<br />
‘Rubrum’ only occasionally sets seeds<br />
(photo opposite, bottom right). Native to<br />
tropical Africa.<br />
Below left: Nassella<br />
tennuissima, Mexican<br />
thread grass.<br />
Below right:<br />
Muhlenbergia rigens,<br />
deer grass.<br />
Ornamental Grasses u 119
P E R E N N I A L S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
Perennials are plants that live for more<br />
than one year, although many thrive for<br />
decades. They are primarily grown for<br />
their flowers, but some do double duty as<br />
ground covers or even shrubs. Most are<br />
easy to grow in containers—just provide<br />
them with a well-drained soil. For a new<br />
landscape or a major renovation, perennials<br />
are excellent choices for the color and<br />
interest they add in a short time.<br />
Gardeners living in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
have a wide selection of perennials to<br />
chose from—both cultivated varieties as<br />
well as native wildflowers. Selections of<br />
each are described here.<br />
120 u Success with Desert Plants
desert marigold<br />
asparagus fern ‘Myers’<br />
lily-of-the-nile<br />
columbine<br />
Grows 1 to 2 feet high with gray-green leaves. Large delicate flowers on long stems may be salmon,<br />
10 o<br />
yellow, lavender or white. Locate where plants will receive afternoon shade in a rich, organic soil. Cut back<br />
Opposite page: Acacia<br />
winter-dormant plants for regrowth the following spring.<br />
aneura, mulga, is an ever-<br />
Produces large clusters of blue flowers on 2-foot stems surrounded by dark green, and straplike, thornless evergreen leaves.<br />
15 o Fleshy roots store moisture. Effective in containers as well as in a natural garden acacia design. growing Locate to where 20 feet plants<br />
will receive afternoon shade; they burn in summer sun in low desert. high and 15 to 20 feet<br />
Produces large clusters of blue flowers on 2-foot stems surrounded by dark wide. green, straplike, evergreen leaves.<br />
0 o Fleshy roots store moisture. Effective in containers as well as in a natural garden design. Locate where plants<br />
will receive afternoon shade. Attracts hummingbirds.<br />
Opposite page: Bauhinia<br />
blakeana produces abundant<br />
‘Silver Mound’ is low growing to 1 foot high with interesting, silvery gray, fernlike evergreen leaves. Excellent<br />
20 o for rock garden or borders, especially in contrast with brightly colored flowers. Prefers<br />
maroon<br />
a sunny<br />
to<br />
exposure.<br />
pink<br />
flowers from December<br />
to April.<br />
‘Sprengeri’ has small leaves on arching branches, forming a rich, fluffy, bright green mound. Use as ground<br />
24 o<br />
cover, border, filler or in containers. Accepts exposure ranging from shade to full sun. ’Myers’ is similar but<br />
Below left: Acacia saligna,<br />
more refined with dense, clean, plumelike stems.<br />
blue leaf wattle, becomes<br />
(A. myriocladus, A. retrofractus). Tufts of rich, green, threadlike foliage resembles covered billows with of green large, smoke. yellow Many<br />
25 o long, slender stems 1-1/2 to 2 feet long rise in clumps that form tuberous roots. puffball Plant flowers in shade in only. spring. Makes a<br />
nice backdrop to colorful annuals.<br />
(A. plumosus). A vigorous plant with small, dainty, lacy, fernlike leaves that are deep green. Good cut foliage for<br />
25 o<br />
indoor arrangements. Climbing, vining growth or use as ground cover. Plant in shade only.<br />
Below: Yellow flowers of<br />
Grows 1 to 1-1/2 feet high, with bright yellow, daisylike flowers that bloom Acacia almost continuously farnesiana, from sweet spring<br />
10 o to fall on tall stems. Woolly gray leaves form a clump to 6 inches high. Cut acacia, back in are winter profuse to stimulate in new<br />
growth and flowers in spring. Reseeds readily. Seeds attract birds. spring and produce a wonderful<br />
Forms clumps to 1-1/2 feet high and 2 feet wide. The large, round leaves have wavy edges. Rose, lilac or purple<br />
flower spikes to 18 inches high bloom in January and February. Use as edging or ground cover in shade.<br />
10 o fragrance.<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Achillea tomentosa<br />
woolly yarrow<br />
Agapanthus orientalis<br />
lily-of-the-nile<br />
Aquilegia hybrids<br />
columbine<br />
Artemisia schmidtiana<br />
angel’s hair<br />
Asparagus densiflorus<br />
asparagus fern<br />
Asparagus macowanii<br />
Macowan asparagus<br />
FERN<br />
Asparagus setaceus<br />
fern asparagus<br />
Baileya multiradiata<br />
desert marigold<br />
Bergenia crassifolia<br />
siberian tea<br />
woolly yarrow<br />
Perennials u 121
chocolate flower<br />
marguerite<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Berlandiera lyrata<br />
chocolate flower<br />
Opposite page: Acacia<br />
aneura, mulga, is an evergreen<br />
cineraria and thornless<br />
Centaurea<br />
dusty acacia miller growing to 20 feet<br />
high and 15 to 20 feet<br />
Cerastium wide. tomentosum<br />
snow-in-summer<br />
Opposite page: Bauhinia<br />
Chrysanthemum blakeana frutescens produces abundant<br />
maroon to pink<br />
marguerite<br />
flowers from December<br />
to April.<br />
Chrysanthemum X superbum<br />
shasta daisy<br />
Below left: Acacia saligna,<br />
blue leaf wattle, becomes<br />
Clivia covered miniata with large, yellow<br />
kaffir puffball lily flowers in spring.<br />
Coreopsis lanceolata<br />
lance-leaf coreopsis<br />
Below: Yellow flowers of<br />
Coreopsis Acacia verticillata farnesiana, sweet<br />
‘Zagreb’ acacia, are Coreopsis profuse in<br />
spring and produce a wonderful<br />
Dicliptera resupinata<br />
dicliptera<br />
fragrance.<br />
shasta daisy<br />
lance-leaf Coreopsis<br />
‘Zagreb’ coreopsis<br />
To 1-1/2 feet high with 2-foot spread. Sprays of flowers in shades of yellow bloom spring to early summer and<br />
10 o<br />
produce a fragrance similar to chocolate. Flower heads expand in morning, drooping in afternoon. Leaves are<br />
green above, whitish underneath—combine with other gray-leaved plants.<br />
Compact growth to 2 feet high. Velvety white leaves have broad, roundish lobes. Solitary flower heads are<br />
10 o purple or yellow. Plant in full sun. Good soil drainage important. Be aware there are several different plants<br />
known by the common name dusty miller.<br />
Grows to just 4 to 6 inches high with soft, whitish gray leaves. Small white flowers to 3/4-inch across bloom<br />
0 o late spring into summer. For good contrast combine with green-foliaged plants. Trim spent flowers and tired<br />
stems at least once each year after flowering.<br />
A perennial but typically grown as an annual in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. It reaches 2 to 3 feet high and as wide,<br />
20 o becoming almost shrublike. Available in white, yellow or pink flowering forms, each offset by bright green<br />
divided leaves. Plant from October through February for spring flowers into April.<br />
(C. maximum). White ray flowers surround yellow disks. The stem is straight or slightly branched and the basal<br />
-20 o<br />
leaves are deeply toothed. Plant from containers in spring or fall. Attractive in borders and as cut flowers.<br />
Divide plants every two years to develop more vigorous growth.<br />
Orange flowers bloom in clusters on stout stems to 2 feet high in early spring. Leaves of Belgian hybrids are<br />
25 o wider, dark green. For best flowers, let them grow undisturbed, forming large clumps. Great container specimen.<br />
Plants grow to 2 feet high with yellow daisylike flowers on long stems that bloom spring into early summer.<br />
10 o<br />
‘Early Sunrise’ grows to 1-1/2 feet high with double golden yellow flowers. Coreopsis are great border plants or<br />
cut flowers. Plant in full sun in regular garden soil.<br />
Grows to 1 foot high and about 2 feet wide. Golden yellow flowers bloom on tall stems, contrasting nicely with<br />
10 o<br />
bright green leaves. Flowering season is long—late spring to fall. Birds, including goldfinches, are attracted to<br />
the seeds.<br />
Grows to 2 feet high and as wide. Rose-purple flowers bloom from May through October. Use in small garden<br />
22 o areas such as patio or courtyard. Trim back after cold weather just prior to spring to renew growth. Dark green<br />
heart-shaped leaves are 1 inch long. Plant in well-drained soil.<br />
122 u Success with Desert Plants
utterfly iris<br />
purple coneflower<br />
green gold<br />
golden dyssodia<br />
Plants grow from rhizomes to 2-1/2 feet high with stiff, upright leaves. Lemon yellow flowers with maroon spots<br />
25 o bloom for several months during the warm season. Moderate water use, but Opposite more flowers page: with more Acacia moisture.<br />
aneura, mulga, is an evergreen<br />
rhizomes and to thornless 2 feet high with stiff<br />
(Moraea vegeta, M. iridoides). Similar to Dietes bicolor. Evergreen perennial from<br />
25 o upright leaves. Small, white, irislike flowers bloom spring to fall. Accepts full acacia sun to partial growing shade. to 20 feet<br />
high and 15 to 20 feet<br />
Small-scale perennial, growing to just 6 inches high and 1 foot wide. Medium wide. green, needlelike leaves are the<br />
perfect backdrop to profuse, bright yellow, daisylike flowers that bloom spring into fall. Not fussy about soil.<br />
10 o<br />
Combines well with cacti and succulents, or tucked into rock gardens. Opposite page: Bauhinia<br />
Purple cone-shaped flowers are long lasting and a favorite in a natural garden blakeana design. Grows produces 2 to 4 abundant<br />
from maroon seed and competes to pink well with<br />
feet high<br />
and 2-1/2 feet wide. Accepts most soils but does need full sun. Grows easily<br />
15 o<br />
grasses. Native to prairies in midwestern U.S.<br />
flowers from December<br />
to April.<br />
Perennial that doubles as an accent. This relative of poinsettia is shrublike with thorny stems. Clusters of red<br />
35 o flowers bloom most of the year. Accepts heat. Drought tolerant, but better appearance Below left: with Acacia regular saligna, summer<br />
irrigation. Great in containers.<br />
blue leaf wattle, becomes<br />
Leafless plant grown for its unusual, pencil-thick branches with see-through covered patterns. Sap with is irritating large, yellow to people<br />
35 o<br />
and animals. Many gardeners grow them in containers so plants can be moved puffball to a frost-free flowers location in spring. during<br />
cold weather.<br />
Forgiving evergreen perennial that is often used a small shrub. ‘Viridis’ is an improved selection. Grows 3 to 4<br />
27 o<br />
feet high with fine-textured, deep green leaves. Yellow daisylike flowers to 2 inches across bloom fall into early<br />
winter. Good container plant. Tolerates a‐wide range of climates. Below: Yellow flowers of<br />
Acacia farnesiana, sweet<br />
Grows to 2 feet high or more. Bright blue, daisylike flowers with yellow centers bloom for several months during<br />
the warm season. Use in containers, borders or as a color accent. Accepts full sun, even in the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
20 o<br />
acacia, are profuse in<br />
spring and produce a wonderful<br />
<strong>Valley</strong>.<br />
This plant is a hybrid of G. aristata and G. pulchella. It flowers continuously from spring to frost. Striking red<br />
15 o and yellow flowers are set off by glossy green leaves. Plants range in size from less than 1 foot to 4 feet high,<br />
fragrance.<br />
depending on the selection. Many easy-to-grow varieties are available.<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Dietes bicolor<br />
peacock flower<br />
Dietes vegeta<br />
butterfly iris<br />
Dyssodia pentachaeta<br />
Golden dyssodia<br />
(Thymophylla pentachaeta)<br />
Echinacea purpurea<br />
purple coneflower<br />
Euphorbia milii<br />
crown of thorns<br />
Euphorbia tirucalli<br />
pencil bush<br />
Euryops pectinatus ‘Viridis’<br />
green gold<br />
Evolvulus ruttalianus<br />
Hawaiian blue eyes<br />
Gaillardia X grandiflora<br />
blanket flower<br />
Perennials u 123
Blackfoot Daisy<br />
gazania<br />
daylily<br />
Angelita Daisy<br />
coral bells<br />
Gaura<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Gaura lindheimeri<br />
Gaura<br />
Opposite page: Acacia<br />
aneura, mulga, is an evergreen<br />
hybrids and thornless<br />
Gazania<br />
gazania acacia growing to 20 feet<br />
high and 15 to 20 feet<br />
Gypsophila wide. paniculata<br />
baby’s breath<br />
Opposite page: Bauhinia<br />
blakeana produces abundant<br />
maroon to pink<br />
Hemerocallis hybrids<br />
daylily<br />
flowers from December<br />
to April.<br />
Hesperis matronalis<br />
dame’s<br />
Below<br />
rocket<br />
left: Acacia saligna,<br />
blue leaf wattle, becomes<br />
Heuchera covered sanguinea with large, yellow<br />
coral puffball bells flowers in spring.<br />
Hymenoxys acaulis<br />
Angelita Daisy<br />
Below: Yellow flowers of<br />
Acacia farnesiana, sweet<br />
Lavandula stoechas<br />
Spanish<br />
acacia, are<br />
lavender<br />
profuse in<br />
spring and produce a wonderful<br />
Melampodium leucanthum<br />
Blackfoot<br />
fragrance.<br />
Daisy<br />
10 o<br />
15 o<br />
0 o<br />
0 o<br />
0 o<br />
0 o<br />
10 o<br />
15 o<br />
0 o<br />
Grows 1 foot high, spreading up to 1-1/2 feet wide. Frilly white to pink flowers bloom on tall spikes summer<br />
into fall. Cut plants back in winter to encourage new, healthy growth. May be sold in nurseries as butterfly<br />
flower.<br />
Grows 1 to 3 feet high with gray-green leaves. Large delicate flowers on long stems may be salmon, orange,<br />
yellow, lavender or white. Locate plants where they will receive afternoon shade. Plant in a rich, organic soil.<br />
Cut back winter-dormant plants for regrowth the following spring.<br />
‘Bristol Fairy’ is an improved selection, growing to 3 feet high. Large loose clusters of tiny, double white flowers<br />
bloom profusely through summer on bluish green stems. Heat tolerant.<br />
Both evergreen and deciduous hybrids are available. Plants form a clump of slender arching leaves. Flowers<br />
in clusters bloom at the ends of tall stems midspring to early fall. They resemble lilies and come in many colors,<br />
including yellow, orange, red and many pastel shades.<br />
Produces purple and white flowers similar to those of phlox, borne in loose heads at ends of the stems.<br />
Flowers are fragrant, especially at night. Plants grow 2 to 3 feet high. Locate in full sun or partial shade in<br />
moist, well-drained soil. Easy to grow from seed.<br />
Grows 6 to 12 inches high with rounded leaves. Flowers are borne in clusters in coral, reddish pink, white or<br />
crimson and bloom on top of 1- to 2-foot stems. Locate in partial shade in fertile, well-drained soil.<br />
Grows 1 foot high and as wide in a rounded clumping form. Profuse numbers of golden yellow,<br />
daisylike flowers on stems above medium green leaves bloom throughout the year. Tuck into small spaces<br />
among boulders, or combine with cacti and succulents. Best with afternoon shade.<br />
The most heat-tolerant lavender, growing 3 to 4 feet high with an equal spread. Mounding plants have bluegreen<br />
foliage, complementing lavender-blue flower spikes that bloom in late spring and summer. Flowers and<br />
foliage are fragrant. Plants accept some shade, prefer it in the afternoon.<br />
Spreading, mounding, ground cover perennial grows 1 foot high and up to 2 feet wide. White daisylike flowers<br />
with yellow centers bloom throughout the year. Does best in well-drained soil and with afternoon shade. Great<br />
choice to include in a natural garden.<br />
124 u Success with Desert Plants
parry’s penstemon<br />
paperflower<br />
white evening primrose<br />
texas paperflower<br />
Low-growing, reaching 8 to 10 inches high. Flowers are 1 inch long, bell-shaped, in rich blue to violet or white.<br />
30 o Plant in fall or winter for flowers in summer. Best with afternoon shade or in partial shade in well-prepared soil.<br />
Opposite page: Acacia<br />
Remove spent blooms, which encourages more flowers.<br />
aneura, mulga, is an evergreen<br />
flowers. and Blooms thornless on and off<br />
Evergreen with large, gray-green leaves and masses of large, 4-inch white<br />
5 o throughout the year but most prolific in spring. Plants form rounded clumps acacia 1 to 1-1/2 growing feet high, to spreading 20 feet 3<br />
feet wide. May die out in summer if overwatered. Reseeds readily. high and 15 to 20 feet<br />
Growth is different than most penstemons in that it is more shrublike to 2 feet wide. high. ‘Del Rio’ is an improved<br />
5 o selection, with cherry colored flowers blooming spring through fall. Loved by hummingbirds. Provide good soil<br />
drainage to prevent root diseases.<br />
Opposite page: Bauhinia<br />
This plant is among the first to bloom in early spring. Tubular scarlet flowers<br />
blakeana<br />
appear on<br />
produces<br />
3- to 4-foot stems<br />
abundant<br />
maroon to pink<br />
0 o above basal growth to 2 feet high and as wide. Plant in full sun—a shady location can cause plants to sprawl.<br />
Best in well-drained soils. Reseeds readily. Attracts hummingbirds. flowers from December<br />
to April.<br />
Tall, strongly vertical, 3- to 5-foot stems show off flowers in shades of pink. Widely adapted to desert regions.<br />
18 o Accepts full sun but better with filtered or afternoon shade in low desert. Plant in soil with good drainage. After<br />
Below left: Acacia saligna,<br />
flowers set seed, cut back to top of leaf rosette.<br />
blue leaf wattle, becomes<br />
Grows 1-1/2 to 2 feet high with typical penstemon rosette form. In spring, tubular covered flowers with in shades large, of yellow purple<br />
0 o appear above the basal growth on stems to 2 feet high. Plant in full sun—a puffball shady location flowers can in cause spring. plants<br />
to sprawl. Best in well-drained soils. Reseeds readily. Attracts hummingbirds.<br />
One of the largest penstemons, growing to 2 feet high and up to 3 feet wide. Brilliant, coral colored, tubular<br />
15 o flowers bloom on tall stems in late spring. Best in well-drained soils. Accepts some shade. Reseeds readily.<br />
Attracts hummingbirds.<br />
Below: Yellow flowers of<br />
Plants grow 1 foot high, spreading to 2 feet wide. Evergreen foliage is gray-green.<br />
Acacia<br />
Yellow,<br />
farnesiana,<br />
daisylike<br />
sweet<br />
flowers<br />
10 o about 1 inch in diameter cover plants for long periods spring through fall. Will acacia, accept are partial profuse shade. in Don’t overwater;<br />
combines well with cacti.<br />
spring and produce a wonderful<br />
Shrubby evergreen that covers itself with bright yellow flowers from spring through summer and late fall.<br />
-20 o Growth is mounding to 1-1/2 feet high, spreading to 3 feet wide. After the blossoms dry and turn papery, they<br />
fragrance.<br />
maintain their yellow color. Locate in full sun to partial shade.<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Nierembergia caerulea<br />
dwarf cup flower<br />
Oenothera caespitosa<br />
white evening<br />
primrose<br />
Penstemon baccharifolius<br />
rock penstemon<br />
Penstemon eatonii<br />
firecracker penstemon<br />
Penstemon parryi<br />
parry’s penstemon<br />
Penstemon pseudospectabilis<br />
canyon penstemon<br />
Penstemon superbus<br />
superb Penstemon<br />
Psilostrophe cooperi<br />
paperflower<br />
Psilostrophe tagetina<br />
texas paperflower<br />
firecracker penstemon<br />
Perennials u 125
lack-eyed susan<br />
Mealy cup sage<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Ratibida columnaris<br />
Mexican Hat<br />
Rudbeckia hirta<br />
black-eyed susan<br />
Salvia farinacea<br />
mealy cup sage<br />
Salvia X superba<br />
blue queen sage<br />
Sphaeralcea ambigua<br />
Globe Mallow<br />
Tagetes lucida<br />
licorice marigold<br />
Tulbaghia violacea<br />
society garlic<br />
126 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
licorice marigold<br />
Globe Mallow<br />
society garlic<br />
Mexican Hat<br />
Wildflower perennial, growing to 2 feet high and as wide. Plant in masses for best effect and to enjoy the interesting<br />
yellow or maroon flowers. They bloom at tips of long stems, the petals draping downward, surrounding<br />
10 o<br />
dark cones in the flower’s center. Blooms spring to fall.<br />
Plants grow to 3 feet or more high. Large, showy, yellow-orange flowers are excellent for cutting and bloom all<br />
-10 o<br />
summer and into fall. Plant in full sun in almost any soil, spring to late fall. Cut back after bloom period. Can<br />
be grown as an annual with a fall sowing.<br />
Grows 1-1/2 to 2 feet high with an equal spread. Violet-blue flower spikes bloom for a long period through<br />
-10 o<br />
summer. Effective planted in masses. Best in full sun. Native to New Mexico and Texas. Attracts hummingbirds.<br />
Compact plant to 12 inches high produces deep blue flower spikes from early summer until frost. Attractive<br />
10 o<br />
when planted in masses. Best in full sun location with regular summer irrigation. Deadhead spent flowers frequently<br />
to increase flower production.<br />
Shrubby wildflower perennial that grows to 3 feet high and as wide. Coarse-textured leaves are gray-green.<br />
5 o<br />
Small, cup-shaped flowers bloom in spring. They come in many colors; the species is orange. Be careful while<br />
handling plants—they can irritate eyes and skin of some individuals.<br />
A fall bloomer with flowers that are similar to mountain marigold, Tagetes lemmonii, but growth habit is more<br />
20 o<br />
compact at 3 to 4 feet high. Leaves emit a scent of anise. Midsummer pruning controls growth and helps produce<br />
stronger stems to support flowers. May go dormant in winter.<br />
Rosy lavender flowers bloom in large clusters in spring and summer; their long-term beauty help make up<br />
0 o for the plant’s garlic scent. Flowers bloom on tall stems well above leaves, and foliage develops into large<br />
clumps. Grow in well-drained soil. Cut back in early spring to renew growth.
Moss verbena<br />
Desert Zinnia<br />
verbena species<br />
prairie zinnia<br />
california fuschia<br />
Forms a low, dense, evergreen mat of dark green foliage 4 to 16 inches high. Plant in full sun, 18 inches apart<br />
0 o for ground cover. Puts on spectacular displays of brilliant, crimson-red or pink flowers spring through fall. Look<br />
for ‘Lipstick’, purple flowers; ‘Red’, red flowers; ‘St. Paul’, pink flowers.<br />
(Verbena tenuisecta). Low-growing ground cover verbena to 1 foot high, spreading to 3 feet wide. Fine-textured<br />
20 o dark green leaves serve as background to purple flowers in clusters. They bloom spring to fall. Attracts butterflies.<br />
0 o<br />
Upright stems 8 to 12 inches high form a mat composed of small gray to green leaves. Bright orange-red or<br />
10 o white tubular flowers are borne in clusters at ends of stems early summer through winter, which are loved by<br />
hummingbirds. Can become invasive if regular moisture is available.<br />
Grows 1 foot high and as wide in a clumping form with thin, upright leaves. White star-shaped<br />
20 o flowers typically bloom following summer rains.<br />
Also consider Zephranthes grandiflora, a similar species with pink flowers.<br />
Grows less than 1 foot high, spreading to 1 foot wide. White daisylike flowers are small but bloom for a long<br />
10 o period—spring into fall. Excellent mounding plant to spread amongst rocks and boulders. Accepts tough conditions<br />
and low water.<br />
0 o<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun Temp. Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Verbena peruviana<br />
peruvian verbena<br />
Verbena pulchella<br />
moss verbena<br />
Verbena rigida<br />
sandpaper verbena<br />
Zauschneria californica<br />
california fuschia<br />
Zephyranthes candida<br />
Rain Lily<br />
Zinnia acerosa<br />
Desert Zinnia<br />
Zinnia grandiflora<br />
prairie zinnia<br />
(Verbena venosa). A vigorous grower from 12 to 20 inches high with dark green, rough-toothed leaves. Stems<br />
support lilac to purple-blue flowers in clusters summer and fall. Like most verbenas, plants perform better if their<br />
leaves remain dry. Irrigate with drip system rather than overhead sprinklers.<br />
Grows 1 foot high and as wide. Spreads to fill in nooks among rocks and boulders. Flowers are<br />
yellow to orange, similar in appearance to desert zinnia, with a bloom period from summer to fall. Flowers<br />
attract butterflies. Accepts some shade.<br />
Perennials u 127
A N N U A L S<br />
l u s h & e f f i -<br />
128 u Success with Desert Plants
Gardening with Annuals<br />
The vibrant colors of flowering annuals, lined up in<br />
containers, pots and packs at the nursery, tempt us<br />
each spring and fall. Each variety of these bedding<br />
plants, as they are called, looks appealing and we want to<br />
take all of them home to add to our gardens. But it’s a good<br />
idea to design and prepare planting beds before purchasing<br />
plants. Keep in mind that most annuals are high-water-use<br />
plants. For this reason, it’s a good idea to use<br />
them in up-close areas near patios or entries.<br />
Annuals are also excellent in containers.<br />
Getting Ready to Plant<br />
Planting at the right season can be the difference<br />
between success or failure. Ideal<br />
times to plant winter- and spring-blooming<br />
annuals are when night air temperatures<br />
range between 40°F to 60°F, and daytime<br />
air temperatures are 60°F to 80°F. Daytime<br />
soil temperatures should be about 75°F.<br />
These conditions generally occur from mid-<br />
October through November.<br />
Add organic soil additives to planting beds<br />
and mix thoroughly to 6 inches deep. Do this several weeks<br />
before planting. Bypass this step for desert natives. Moisten<br />
beds to 12 inches deep.<br />
New plantings can quickly become stressed if winds<br />
are strong or temperatures rise suddenly. Be aware of the<br />
weather and water new plants carefully. In fast-draining,<br />
sandy soil, moisture must be supplied regularly for plants to<br />
grow and remain healthy. Neglect will cause hardening of<br />
tissues and loss of plant health or life. Check the soil often<br />
to determine if plants need water.<br />
Soil-borne organisms have plagued new plantings of<br />
petunias and vincas when they have been planted in the<br />
same location, year after year. Prevent by removing leaf<br />
debris from planting beds, discard dead or dying plants and<br />
keep plants growing vigorously at all times. Rotate plantings—don’t<br />
always grow the same kind of plant in the same<br />
bed. Try something new each planting season. Contact your<br />
nursery for current disease controls.<br />
Planting Wildflowers<br />
Many wildflowers are included in the Annuals charts on<br />
pages 130 to 135. Including wildflowers in your landscape<br />
takes a little planning, but is worth the effort. Follow these<br />
few simple guidelines for preparation and planting.<br />
In order of preference, fall, winter and early spring are<br />
suitable for sowing seed of spring-blooming species. Plant<br />
summer-flowering varieties during the spring.<br />
Almost any sunny location (at least six hours of sun each<br />
day) is a candidate for wildflowers. Wildflowers native to<br />
the desert are, by their nature, better equipped to cope with<br />
our climate and soil conditions than water-demanding species<br />
introduced from other regions. However, like other<br />
plants, even tough desert natives require regular moisture to<br />
germinate seeds and establish seedlings.<br />
Wildflower mixes adapted to grow in the low desert are<br />
available for <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> gardeners. Individual species<br />
also work well. It is a matter of preference as to what effect<br />
you are looking for. If you create your own<br />
combination, select wildflowers that bloom<br />
at the same time. Consider planting them in<br />
separate beds to create distinct bands of colors.<br />
Over time, wildflower plantings take on<br />
their own character as plants reseed, spread<br />
and reseed some more.<br />
Sow seeds for spring-blooming annuals in<br />
the fall. Seed mixtures typically contain six<br />
or more species to ensure a long season and<br />
a variety of color. A 1-ounce seed packet<br />
will cover approximately 500 square feet.<br />
Prepare the planting area by removing<br />
weeds and debris prior to cultivation. Rake<br />
lightly to create a seed bed. Soak the soil<br />
slowly to moisten 8 to 12 inches deep.<br />
Broadcast seeds with a hand-held fertilizer spreader or by<br />
hand. Most wildflower seeds are very small. Mixing with<br />
fine dry sand provides more even distribution, and allows<br />
you to see where seeds are being applied. Don’t plant seeds<br />
too deep. Most wildflowers do best with 1/8-inch coverage<br />
of soil, but read the seed package to be sure.<br />
After seeding, rake soil lightly in a criss-cross pattern to<br />
cover seeds. <strong>Water</strong> lightly with a fine mist attachment on the<br />
hose. Avoid washing soil or applying so much water at one<br />
time that it creates gullies and runoff. <strong>Water</strong> seeded areas<br />
regularly until seedlings appear. After seeds sprout, apply<br />
water a couple of times each week, depending on moisture<br />
content of soil. Pull weeds as they appear.<br />
Adding fertilizer is seldom necessary. Most desert wildflowers<br />
do well in soils having low fertility.<br />
Germination periods vary considerably for different wildflowers,<br />
and are affected by soil and air temperatures. Some<br />
may sprout in two weeks, others take four to six weeks.<br />
Adequate deep moisture is essential.<br />
After plants complete their flowering cycle and go to seed,<br />
cut them back to about 6 inches high. With some wildflower<br />
species, you can collect seeds for next year’s planting. Some<br />
seeds will have been eaten by birds or otherwise lost. To<br />
ensure another season of color, reseed with about half as<br />
much as the original planting in the fall. Note that spring<br />
seeding for summer annuals will require more moisture<br />
compared to fall-seeded plants. Perennial species will usually<br />
continue into the following year.<br />
Annuals u 129
snapdragon<br />
calendula<br />
bachelor’s button<br />
periwinkle<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Ammi majus<br />
bishop’s flowers<br />
Antirrhinum majus<br />
snapdragon<br />
Calendula officinalis<br />
calendula<br />
Catharanthus roseus<br />
periwinkle<br />
vinca<br />
Centaurea cyanus<br />
bachelor’s button<br />
Cheiranthus cheiri<br />
wallflower<br />
Chrysanthemum X morifolium<br />
chrysanthemum<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Spring<br />
Plants<br />
Spring<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
130 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
This plant is similar in appearance to Queen Anne’s lace, growing to 3 feet high. White flowers bloom in<br />
summer, set off by finely dissected leaves that have toothed margins. Excellent cut flower. Plant in full sun<br />
in almost any soil. Easy to start from seed.<br />
Tall, 1- to 1-1/2-foot “tetra” forms do best when staked early in their life to support stems. Dwarf types 6 to<br />
18 inches high are ideal for massing and in borders. Colorful cut flowers. Plant mid-October to February.<br />
Plants bloom well into spring with regular water and monthly fertilizer.<br />
Flower colors range from bright yellows to deep orange, with best appearance in late winter and early<br />
spring. Growth is vigorous to 18 inches high. Long-lasting cut flowers. Plants tend to sprawl. Space 15 to 18<br />
inches apart.<br />
(Vinca rosea). Profuse flowers from spring into summer, and often into fall. Many flower colors, including<br />
white, red, pink and magenta. Most selections grow 12 to 15 inches high but smaller forms are available.<br />
Plant in late spring. Feed with diluted liquid fertilizer monthly.<br />
Grows to 2 feet high and almost as wide. Blooms from late spring to fall. The foliage is gray-green with blue,<br />
wine, rose, pink or white flowers at the end of the stems. Accepts full sun to partial shade. Reseeds easily.<br />
Grows in almost any soil.<br />
Grows to 2 feet high. Fragrant flowers bloom in shades of yellow and red. Plant in full sun and in soil with<br />
good drainage. Easy to grow from seed. Wallflower is rarely considered a wildflower but is added to wildflower<br />
mixes because it does well in meadows, favored for its bright colors.<br />
This is the garden-variety chrysanthemum, also known as florist’s chrysanthemum. Plants may survive<br />
for years. They are available in a wide range of flower colors, growing 1 to 1-1/2 feet high. Accepts some<br />
shade.
indian blanket<br />
dianthus<br />
Cosmos<br />
california poppy<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Clarkia amoena<br />
farewell-to-spring<br />
Collinsia heterophylla<br />
chinese houses<br />
Cosmos bipinnatus<br />
cosmos<br />
Delphinium species<br />
larkspur<br />
Dianthus species<br />
dianthus<br />
Eschscholzia californica<br />
california poppy<br />
Gaillardia pulchella<br />
indian blanket<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Spring<br />
This annual wildflower grows to 2 feet high with slender stems that support cup-shaped flowers in shades<br />
of pink, lavender or red. Several flowers often bloom on a single flowering stalk. Easy to grow from seed,<br />
but does not do well in humid climates when temperatures climb above 80°F.<br />
The name Chinese houses comes from the arrangement of the plant’s flowers, which look like miniature<br />
pagodas. Violet or white flowers bloom spring to early summer. Will grow to 2 feet high in full sun or partial<br />
shade. Tolerates most soil conditions.<br />
Open and airy color plant, with soft fernlike leaves and daisylike flowers in pink, red or white. Plant form is<br />
informal to 3 to 5 feet high so locate in the back of a natural border. Easy to grow from seed. Plant in moderately<br />
rich soil in full sun location in fall or early spring.<br />
A perennial that is treated as annual in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Blend one cup of bone meal into planting soil<br />
before planting. Position plant crown slightly above ground level so it will remain dry. Protect from heavy<br />
winds and add 4-foot stakes early on to support tall flower stems.<br />
Treat as an annual in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Colors range from white, pink, red, purple and shades between.<br />
Flowers have a delightful, spicy fragrance; enjoy in bouquets. Best in enriched, well-drained soil. Stake<br />
early to support tall flower stems. Accepts full sun to partial shade.<br />
California poppy is the state flower of California. Orange to yellow, cup-shaped flowers bloom on 12- to 18-<br />
inch stems from spring into early summer. Plants reseed readily. Sow seed where you want plants to grow.<br />
Does not like soil that is continuously moist or overly rich.<br />
Often used in western region wildflower seed mixes for its aggressive growth. Plants grow to 1-1/2 to 2<br />
feet high. Long slender stems are topped with 2-inch red, yellow and gold flowers. Easy to grow from seed.<br />
Plant in soil with good drainage. Blooms from midsummer to frost.<br />
Annuals u 131
tidy tips<br />
Geranium<br />
sweet pea<br />
Maximilian Sunflower<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Geranium species<br />
geranium<br />
Gilia capitata<br />
blue thimble flower<br />
Helianthus maximilianii<br />
Maximilian Sunflower<br />
Lasthenia glabrata<br />
goldfields<br />
Lathyrus odoratus<br />
sweet pea<br />
Layia platyglossa<br />
tidy tips<br />
Linaria maroccana<br />
toadflax<br />
Plants<br />
Spring<br />
Seeds<br />
Spring<br />
Seeds<br />
Spring<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
132 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
Geraniums are treated as annuals in low-elevation desert regions and are ideal container color plants.<br />
Accepts full sun or partial shade but requires well-drained soil. Enjoy the spring flowers then move containers<br />
into shade as the warm season comes on in late April and May.<br />
Plants grow to 2 feet high with tall, slender stems. Blue pin-cushion flowers bloom from summer to fall.<br />
Leaves to 4 inches long are finely dissected, adding a light airy feeling to plants. Accepts full sun to partial<br />
shade. Easy to grow from seed. Sow in place in early spring.<br />
A perennial grown as an annual in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Tall flower stalks to 6 feet high or more are topped<br />
with familiar sunflower flowers in fall. Place at back of border due to plant height. Accepts some shade and<br />
most soil conditions. Birds love the seeds.<br />
An annual wildflower that grows 6 to 24 inches high. Slender stems are topped with small yellow flowers<br />
from spring into summer. Excellent for fast temporary cover and color. Often included in western wildflower<br />
mixes; competes well with grasses. Use for revegetation and stabilization.<br />
Sweet peas are available in a wide range of colors. Blooms late winter through spring. Dwarf types excel in<br />
flower borders or in planters. If you start with seeds, soak them in water for several hours before planting.<br />
Plant in well-prepared soil, and provide supports for plants to climb.<br />
Wildflower annual with yellow daisylike flowers tipped with white. They are 1 to 2 inches across and showy,<br />
blooming on plants to 1 foot high. Flowering begins in early spring and can last for several months. Grows<br />
best in well-drained soil in full sun or partial shade.<br />
An annual wildflower growing 1 to 2 feet high. Flowers in mixed colors look like snapdragons. Blooms<br />
spring to summer. Grows easily from seed. Prefers light shade. For best show of color, sow seed in large<br />
quantities. Reseeds to come back the following spring.
texas bluebonnet<br />
lobelia<br />
sweet alyssum<br />
scarlet flax<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Linum grandiflorum<br />
‘Rubrum’<br />
scarlet flax<br />
Linum perenne<br />
subsp. lewisii<br />
blue flax<br />
Lobelia erinus<br />
lobelia<br />
Lobularia maritima<br />
sweet alyssum<br />
Lupinus densiflorus<br />
var. aureus<br />
golden lupine<br />
Lupinus texensis<br />
texas bluebonnet<br />
Matthiola incana<br />
stock<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
This annual wildflower grows rapidly 1 to 1-1/2 feet high, producing brilliant, scarlet flowers at ends of tall<br />
stems. Plant in well-drained soil in fall; it will not tolerate soggy soil during the cool season. Accepts full sun<br />
to partial shade. Blooms from spring into midsummer. Reseeds readily.<br />
This annual wildflower produces a breathtaking bouquet of dazzling, sky-blue flowers that have a satiny<br />
sheen. They open every morning then fade in the afternoon heat. Plants grow to 2 feet high with a light,<br />
airy, vase shape that allows them to blend well with other wildflowers.<br />
Popular and dependable border plant or cover for bulbs, grown for late winter and spring bloom. Flowers<br />
are usually light blue to violet with contrasting throats in white or yellow. Grows 6 to 8 inches high. Plant in<br />
rich, improved soil. Can reseed with good growing conditions.<br />
An easy-care annual that is an excellent companion to bright-colored annuals or perennials. Grows 6 to<br />
8 inches high in white, rose or purple. Easy to grow from seed or set out plants from packs fall to early<br />
spring. Locate in sun to partial shade. Cold hardy.<br />
An annual wildflower native to California. Showy, spiked, pealike, golden flowers stand high above the<br />
leaves, blooming early spring to early summer. Plants grow to 2 feet high. Sow seed in full sun in fall for<br />
flowers the following spring. Prefers well-drained soil.<br />
This annual wildflower is the state flower of Texas, and announces spring with sweeping masses of blueplumed<br />
flowers along roadsides and in meadows. Plants grow 1 to 2 feet high. Germination can be sporadic<br />
but may be increased by purchasing scarified (scratched) seed.<br />
A dependable garden annual featuring fragrant flowers in a range of colors. Grows 1-1/2 to 2 feet high with<br />
an equal spread late winter to early spring. Makes a fine background for smaller<br />
annuals. Plant in well-drained soil improved with amendments in full sun to partial shade.<br />
Annuals u 133
owl’s clover<br />
petunia<br />
forget-me-not<br />
california bluebell<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Myosotis sylvatica<br />
forget-me-not<br />
Nemophila maculata<br />
five spot<br />
Nemophila menziesii<br />
baby blue eyes<br />
Orthocarpus purpurascens<br />
owl’s clover<br />
Papaver rhoeas<br />
flanders field poppy<br />
Petunia hybrids<br />
petunia<br />
Phacelia campanularia<br />
california bluebell<br />
Phlox drummondii<br />
Annual phlox<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
134 u Success with Desert Plants<br />
This annual produces numerous, small, blue or sometimes pink flowers that bloom in spring. Plants grow<br />
6 to 15 inches high. Prefers regular moisture and slightly acid to neutral soil. Accepts full sun to light<br />
shade. Easy to grow from seed.<br />
Flowers of this wildflower are the same as baby blue eyes, below, but are white with vivid purple spots at<br />
the tip of each petal. Grows to just 6 inches high, spreading 12 inches or more wide. Accepts most soils,<br />
including heavy clay or sand. Attractive when planted in drifts.<br />
This wildflower grows 6 to 10 inches high with delicate, sky blue flowers marked with white spots. Best<br />
with moderate water in shaded areas. Avoid planting in hot or humid conditions. Start from seed either in<br />
spring or fall. A prolific bloomer that will reseed itself.<br />
Reliable wildflower for fast cover and color from early spring into summer. Suited to a natural border or in<br />
a wildflower mix. Grows to 8 inches high with rose-pink to purple, plumelike flowers that resemble clover.<br />
Sow seed in early fall in full sun to partial shade location. Reseeds well.<br />
Large, showy flowers in many bright colors on plants 2 to 4 feet high. Provide light, well-drained soil,<br />
moderate water in a full sun to partial shade location. Prefers open areas and competes well with grasses.<br />
Sow seeds in fall or early spring.<br />
Petunias are the most colorful of all annuals in desert gardens, and are available in a wide range of forms<br />
and flower colors. Prefers sun but accepts partial shade. Mix pellet-type fertilizer into soil when planting.<br />
Check soil moisture often; overwatering can lead to disease problems.<br />
Prolific-blooming wildflower with rich blue, bell-shaped flowers in early spring to early summer. Plants grow<br />
6 to 18 inches high with lush-looking, dark green, fragrant, heart-shaped leaves. Accepts most soils but<br />
performs best in rocky soils with good drainage. Reseeds itself.<br />
Low growing, to 6 to 12 inches. Best planted in a mass or in a color border. Soft flower colors come in<br />
mostly shades of salmon, pink, yellow and white. Accepts full sun to partial shade. Plants and flowers hold<br />
up well to late spring and early summer heat. Reseeds well.
zinnia<br />
Mexican Sunflower<br />
viola<br />
marigold<br />
Botanical Name How to Grow Description<br />
Common Name <strong>Water</strong>, Sun, Plants/Seeds Mature Size Flowers Bloom Season<br />
Primula malacoides<br />
fairy primrose<br />
Silene armeria<br />
catchfly<br />
Tagetes erecta<br />
marigold<br />
Tithonia rotundifolia<br />
Mexican Sunflower<br />
Verbena hybrids<br />
verbena<br />
Viola cornuta<br />
viola<br />
Viola X wittrockiana<br />
pansy<br />
Zinnia elegans<br />
zinnia<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Spring<br />
Seeds<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Fall<br />
Plants<br />
Spring<br />
Adds splashes of color in shaded or partially shaded locations. Delicate-textured leaves are pale green,<br />
oval, to 3 inches long. They grow in rosettes close to ground. Vertical flower stems 8 to 10 inches high<br />
bloom in spring in shades of white, pink, red and mauve. Best in improved soil.<br />
Summer-blooming wildflower, when most annual wildflowers are well past their peak. Pink to lavender flowers<br />
are borne in tight clusters on small bushy plants to 2 feet high. The individual flower petals are deeply<br />
notched. Accepts full sun to partial shade in almost any soil.<br />
Valuable summer color plants. Select from a wide range of flower forms in yellows and oranges. Dwarf, 8-<br />
to 12-inch types are ideal in borders; taller 18-inch varieties look best behind low<br />
border shrubs. Keep plants growing continuously with regular water and fertilizer.<br />
Grows up to 6 feet high and to 3 feet wide. Large, orange or yellow sunflower blooms put on a show from<br />
midsummer until frost. Like Maximillian sunflower, use in back of the border. Attracts hummingbirds and<br />
swallowtail butterflies.<br />
Colorful annual border plants, growing from 8 to 12 inches high. Available in a range of flower colors,<br />
including white, red, pink, blue and purple. After flowering, trim spent blooms for regrowth. Plant in fall to<br />
enjoy late winter-spring flowers.<br />
At home as a low, 6- to 9-inch border along walks, in front of mixed plantings and in containers. Flowers<br />
come in white, blue, yellow and apricot. Does well in sunny to partially shaded locations. Flowers profusely<br />
until heat arrives in late spring. Accepts temperatures as low as 28°F.<br />
Reliable annual for winter and spring color. Many selections are available in a wide range of<br />
flower colors. Grows 6 to 8 inches high. Best in a warm microclimate. Enrich soil with blood<br />
meal before planting and feed monthly. Cut back plants lightly March to April to renew growth.<br />
One of the best annuals for summer color. Flowers come in a range of bright colors, and are large—up to 6<br />
inches across. Dwarf types grow as low as 6 inches; taller types can be as much as 3 feet high. ‘Profusion’<br />
series grow 1-1/2 to 2 feet high. Flood-irrigate or use drip irrigation.<br />
Annuals u 135
u<br />
c h a p t e r f o u r<br />
u<br />
Landscapes & Special<br />
Gardens<br />
Mild winters and ample sunshine are trademarks of the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>, allowing a wide range of plants to be grown successfully.<br />
In this chapter, you’ll find detailed information on many types<br />
of gardens and plants, including roses, citrus, fruits, vegetables and lawns.<br />
You’ll learn how to handle specific kinds of garden situations, such as landscaping<br />
around pools and patios, creating a wildlife habitat, and how to grow<br />
plants in containers. In addition, you’ll find a detailed guide to help you give<br />
your garden an extreme makeover—creating a lush, attractive, water-efficient<br />
landscape.<br />
Planning Your Landscape<br />
It is difficult for the majority of first-time desert residents to develop a plan<br />
of action for their new landscape. When you consider that they are working<br />
with unfamiliar plants in growing conditions that seem downright hostile,<br />
this makes perfect sense! But that is the reason for this book. With careful<br />
understanding of each plant’s character and mature size, and with some<br />
thoughtful planning, a pleasing landscape will emerge. No matter what size<br />
your yard, following some basic guidelines can show you how to plan and<br />
install a water-conserving landscape you’ll be sure to enjoy.<br />
First, draw a base plan of your lot that shows the location of home, walks,<br />
patios and driveway slabs—all areas of hardscape that exist on your lot.<br />
(These hardscape areas should be in place before beginning any landscaping.)<br />
In addition to walks and patios, there may be a need to construct walls<br />
for privacy or as a windbreak. Note these as well.<br />
On your plan, note items such as utilities and access for trash receptacles.<br />
Include any landscape plants or existing features that you want to keep.<br />
Making a scale drawing on graph paper is ideal, but even a sketch of available<br />
space provides a snapshot of what exists, and a starting point.<br />
Make several copies of this base plan. Now is the time to try out your ideas.<br />
Draw in all the different plants and gardens you might like, such as a vegetable<br />
garden, herb garden, shade trees, fruit trees, vines or even a fountain.<br />
Above: Consider creating<br />
a wildlife garden that will<br />
attract butterflies. This butterfly<br />
is gulf fritillary.<br />
Left: Creating a low-water<br />
landscape that is lush and<br />
colorful begins with a good<br />
design, followed by selecting<br />
adapted plants.<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 137
Consider functional spaces within your yard as well,<br />
such as an area for a barbeque grill, seating for entertaining,<br />
or space for a pool or spa.<br />
If you are interested in growing vegetables or flowers,<br />
consider constructing narrow raised beds. Make<br />
them wide enough to provide a seating ledge—useful<br />
when planting, weeding and harvesting.<br />
Consider adding a change of elevation for interest,<br />
such as natural-shaped earth mounds, a raised planter<br />
against the back wall, or a dry creek bed to follow a<br />
slope. All will help set the stage for wildflowers, ground<br />
covers and accent plants.<br />
Visit retail nurseries and botanical gardens for ideas<br />
on the plants you want to include. Choose plants<br />
for their seasonal color, beauty, hardiness to cold,<br />
ultimate height and spread and water requirements.<br />
Research trees carefully, and know how much space<br />
you have available for their mature height and spread.<br />
Maintenance requirements, including the amount of litter<br />
they typically create, are other important aspects.<br />
Before you even think about digging planting holes,<br />
mark the locations of major plants with stakes. A garden<br />
hose or heavy string can be used to outline proposed<br />
planting beds. Spend some time in the yard to be sure<br />
that the proposed layout works for you. Go inside and<br />
look out your windows to imagine how the plants will<br />
look from that important viewpoint.<br />
Adequate soil drainage is necessary to avoid areas<br />
of standing water in the landscape. Make the soil level<br />
next to hardscape areas 2 inches below grade.<br />
Plan an irrigation system and layout after you determine<br />
plant locations. Drip irrigation with automatic<br />
valves will water plants where and when they need it,<br />
reducing your water bill. (See pages 26 to 41.)<br />
Plant properly. See page 16 for step-by-step guidelines.<br />
Allow correct amount of space between plants<br />
and hardscapes. Take into account their full mature<br />
growth even if plantings appear sparse at first. You can<br />
always add annuals and perennials as temporary filler<br />
for a year or two until trees and shrubs begin to assert<br />
themselves.<br />
Making a Small Landscape<br />
Less can be more. Even if you live on a small lot with<br />
limited garden space, it can still be as beautiful and<br />
enjoyable as a garden in a large lot, with less maintenance<br />
chores. Many of the same trees, shrubs, vines,<br />
ground covers, annuals and perennials that grow successfully<br />
in large-scale gardens are compatible in smaller<br />
planting locations. Just be sure you take into account<br />
mature plant sizes as you do your planning.<br />
Due to the smaller area, gardening solutions must<br />
This inviting home entry is composed of an attractive combination of water-efficient plants.<br />
138 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
e more creative. Trees or shrubs that you can espalier—train<br />
against a wall or fence—provide one option.<br />
Especially consider the use of vines for getting the most<br />
out of garden space. They can be trained up fences and<br />
walls to surround your home with color and cooling<br />
greenery, taking up little ground area.<br />
Giving Your Old Landscape a Makeover<br />
Even if it has only been five years since your landscape<br />
was installed, many new, beautiful, water-efficient<br />
shrubs, trees, accent plants, ground covers and bright<br />
flowering perennials are available in a wide range of<br />
colors and growth habits. Ornamental grasses, as well,<br />
are becoming more popular. They, too, are available in<br />
a range of sizes and colors, their leaves and seedheads<br />
creating interesting flowing patterns. (See pages 118-<br />
119.) Vertical accent plants, many of which are succulents,<br />
add their own brand of new visual impact. See<br />
Cacti and Succulents, pages 106 to 117, for an array of<br />
choices.<br />
If you have a front lawn, consider replacing it with<br />
interesting, natural-shaped contours and mounds planted<br />
with water-efficient flowering shrubs, perennials<br />
and ground covers. Add some boulders, a few accent<br />
plants, and some low-water flowering perennials. Now<br />
your once-common, monochromatic green grass yard is<br />
a visual feast for the eye. And it will use about half the<br />
water as the lawn.<br />
You can also choose to retain some lawn, but reduce<br />
its size. This will cut back on water outlay, as well as<br />
time spent fertilizing, mowing and otherwise maintaining<br />
it.<br />
Bordering lawn with a clean edge can enhance the<br />
overall appearance of your landscape and give it a<br />
finished appearance. The contrast of rich green grass<br />
against light-colored mulch such as decomposed granite<br />
or soil can be highly attractive.<br />
Follow the steps outlined in Planning Your Landscape,<br />
page 137. Doing a makeover of an established landscape<br />
requires a thorough review of the site. This includes<br />
noting existing problems, then developing a theme or<br />
plan—including a budget—before beginning work.<br />
Include in your calculations how much longer you<br />
intend to live in your home. If you plan on staying three<br />
years or more, be more expansive with your makeover.<br />
If you will be selling your home in less than three years,<br />
it’s probably more economical to tidy up the landscape,<br />
get rid of clutter, eliminate glaring problems and maintain<br />
it to its potential.<br />
To develop a complete review for a potential makeover,<br />
it may be worth the services of an experienced<br />
landscape designer or landscape architect. A profes-<br />
Low-water and low care: Bright green myoporum ground cover combines with magenta bougainvillea in the background.<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 139
sional can define the scope of work, develop a time<br />
frame and prepare a budget.<br />
As part of the makeover, evaluate the worthiness of<br />
all plants that are on site. Trees especially should be<br />
carefully reviewed. Are they healthy Is their height and<br />
spread in proportion to the available space Are limbs<br />
rubbing against structures, or are roots uplifting walks<br />
or walls Are they well-adapted to the desert environment<br />
Consider other plants as well. Have shrubs and<br />
ground covers become woody Has continual pruning<br />
all but eliminated flowering Are there any plants on<br />
site that you simply do not like<br />
Some Makeover Solutions<br />
o It is not always wrong to remove a tree, especially if<br />
it is causing problems. Trees in poor condition, problem<br />
trees, trees planted in the wrong place, or trees at the<br />
end of their life span should be removed.<br />
o Remove worn out evergreen shrubs and replant with<br />
desert-adapted flowering shrubs and perennials.<br />
o Upgrade flower beds with small shrubs, also called<br />
subshrubs, which generally produce more flowers over<br />
a longer period. Perennials can also take the place of<br />
annual flowers. They produce colorful flowers and are<br />
less costly than planting and replanting large beds of<br />
annuals several times a year.<br />
o Add in accent plants and low-profile ground covers<br />
to create a new, fresh look that also reduces water use.<br />
o Replace or reduce the size of large lawns with graceful,<br />
flowing plantings of perennials, ornamental grasses<br />
and accent plants.<br />
o A well-constructed lawn edging contains the lawn<br />
and gives definition to lawn and planting beds. Use<br />
pressure-treated wood or other landscaping timbers for<br />
edging, or durable edges such as metal, brick or concrete.<br />
Limiting the lawn perimeter and avoiding small,<br />
narrow or oddly shaped sections will make it easier to<br />
irrigate and maintain.<br />
o Artificial turf has improved in appearance and longevity<br />
in recent years. It can be an option to provide a<br />
splash of green color to a back yard.<br />
o Give your irrigation system a makeover. Replace<br />
old irrigation watering heads with more water-conserving<br />
equipment. Most PVC pipe irrigations systems<br />
can easily be converted to water-saving drip systems.<br />
Irrigation, including how to upgrade and maintain an<br />
existing system, is discussed on pages 30 to 41.<br />
Landscaping Near Pools and Patios<br />
The areas around pools and patios are some of the<br />
most difficult places to landscape attractively and for<br />
low maintenance. From a plant’s point of view, such<br />
locations can be less than ideal for growth. Pools add<br />
reflected light and hot concrete decking to the already<br />
high heat. Chlorine in pool water may splash on plants,<br />
Boulders combine with brightly colored bougainvillea (center), MurphyÕs agave (left), and yellow-flowering aloe<br />
140 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
Palms are ideal plants near pools. They create a tropical<br />
mood and are generally litter-free.<br />
injuring or killing them.<br />
Patios are difficult because a portion of the earth for<br />
plant roots is covered by a large, non-porous surface.<br />
But there are still ample plants available for these sites,<br />
especially if you follow a few guidelines.<br />
To avoid constant problems with sweeping, raking<br />
and cleaning, select and plant low-litter plants. All<br />
plants will produce some amount of litter, but some<br />
plants are messier than others. The descriptions in<br />
Plants for Desert Success often lists whether a plant is<br />
high or low on the litter scale.<br />
Swimming Pools<br />
The landscape around a pool becomes more appealing<br />
when you use plants that are dramatic in form, texture<br />
or color. Avoid using plants with thorns, as well as<br />
those that produce high litter.<br />
Palms are among the most favored trees for around<br />
pools. Consider trying some newer selections, such as<br />
Brahea armata, Mexican blue palm, or Brahea edulis,<br />
Guadalupe Island palm. Both are slow growing and<br />
typically remain under 20 feet high.<br />
Tried and true is Washingtonia filifera, California<br />
fan palm. It grows slowly to 35 to 40 feet, with a massive<br />
trunk up to 3-1/2 feet in diameter. Washingtonia<br />
robusta, Mexican fan palm, has a slender, 18-inch trunk<br />
that can reach 50 to 75 feet high. This height makes it<br />
a skyline tree and should only be used in large-scale<br />
gardens.<br />
For smaller gardens and for close-up viewing, consider<br />
Chamaerops humilis, Mediterranean fan palm.<br />
It is typically multi-trunked growing 8 to 12 feet high.<br />
Growth is slow. Welcome the pups, offshoot plants,<br />
that fill in around the base. Leave them on the palm to<br />
encourage growth to develop more vertically. This palm<br />
A poolside planter features colorful annuals with upright<br />
rosemary as a living centerpiece.<br />
is also excellent when grown in containers.<br />
Although palms are popular, there are a number<br />
of other evergreen trees and shrubs that are attractive<br />
around pools. Consider Acacia aneura or Acacia<br />
craspedocarpa, two low-litter species from Australia.<br />
Acacia willardiana, palo blanco, is native to Mexico.<br />
It will accept reflected sunlight and heat near pools<br />
and adds a graceful, weeping-willow-like feel, as does<br />
Callistemon viminalis, weeping bottle-brush. Olneya<br />
tesota, desert ironwood, Sophora secundiflora, Texas<br />
mountain laurel, and Pistacia lentiscus, evergreen<br />
pistachio, are additional trees to consider for poolside<br />
plantings.<br />
In planting areas near a pool, it becomes both functional<br />
and visually appealing to use creeping ground<br />
covers. Select species that root along the branches,<br />
which helps stabilize the soil to keep it from blowing<br />
into the pool. Include some taller accent plants to partner<br />
with the ground cover to create more interest. Add a<br />
few boulders or statuary to complete the scene.<br />
Especially attractive ground covers for poolside<br />
landscapes include Chrysactinia mexicana, damianita,<br />
Convolvulus cneorum, silver bush morning glory,<br />
Oenothera stubbeii, Saltillo primrose, Ruellia brittoniana<br />
‘Katie,’ dwarf ruellia, and the creeping evergreen<br />
herbs, Rosmarinus officinalis ‘Prostratus’, prostrate<br />
rosemary, and Teucrium chamaedrys ‘Prostratum’,<br />
prostrate germander.<br />
Many lush, flowing ornamental grasses are at home<br />
around pools, especially as a backdrop. Consider<br />
Muhlenbergia species, which are attractive almost yearround,<br />
and are low-litter plants.<br />
High-litter plants to avoid include oleander, bougainvillea,<br />
pyracantha, eucalyptus, ash, pines, privet,<br />
mesquite and palo verde. If you want to include these<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 141
plants for shade, screening, or other functions, try to<br />
place them 25 to 35 feet away, ideally on the downwind<br />
side of the pool.<br />
For a final touch, install night lighting on palms and<br />
bold accent plants to enhance the pool landscape. The<br />
play of light reflections on plants and water add to the<br />
beauty of the scene.<br />
Patios<br />
A patio can be a wonderful place to sit and enjoy your<br />
yard. There is nothing comparable to relaxing on your<br />
own patio with a morning beverage and the paper, with<br />
birds singing in the colorful shrubs around you. Come<br />
back to the patio in the evening and enjoy the company<br />
of friends as you grill some steaks for dinner. The patio<br />
should be designed so that it is another room of your<br />
home.<br />
Creating intimacy in a large or small patio merits<br />
close attention to detail when selecting and placing<br />
plants. A patio area provides an opportunity to become<br />
your private mini-oasis. In general, you want to select<br />
plants that have colors and textures that are appealing<br />
when viewed up close.<br />
Flowering vines, espaliered plants and fragrant color<br />
plants in containers add special interest at the edges of<br />
the patio area. If the rest of your garden is low maintenance,<br />
these are prime locations to showcase plants that<br />
you enjoy the most: a small herb garden, vegetables in<br />
containers, or special tropical or subtropical plants.<br />
Beds at the edges of the patio can be filled with flowering<br />
perennials or annuals to add their bright, gem-like<br />
effects. Also consider bonsai plants for their up-close<br />
appeal. While you want planting beds near the patio,<br />
where you can most enjoy them, you also want sufficient<br />
space for walkways and paths to reach other parts<br />
of the yard. Also factor in easy access to other features,<br />
such as table and chairs, grill, pool or spa.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> Features—Pools and Fountains<br />
The cooling sight and relaxing sound of water simply<br />
can not be surpassed as a finishing touch to a landscape.<br />
This is especially true in a desert climate, where water<br />
is precious. And if you enjoy statuary, you can include<br />
some in even the smallest garden as part of a water<br />
feature.<br />
<strong>Water</strong> features can be formal, such as a Spanish-style<br />
fountain, or informal, like a natural-appearing waterfall<br />
and pool. Select the style that blends the best with the<br />
rest of your landscape.<br />
The style of water feature (formal or informal) dictates<br />
the type of plants placed around it. A formal feature<br />
should be landscaped with plants that remain tidy<br />
with little care, such as junipers or myoporum.<br />
For an informal water feature, surround with freeform<br />
plants. Vertical forms can provide accents among<br />
rock groupings near your water feature. Larger plants<br />
include Muhlenbergia lindheimeri, Lindheimer muhley;<br />
Hesperaloe parviflora, red hesperaloe; Dietes vegeta,<br />
butterfly iris; and Dasylirion longissimum, toothless<br />
sotol. Smaller plants include Nassella tenuissima,<br />
Mexican thread grass; Zephyranthes species, rain lilies;<br />
and Bulbine frutescens, bulbine.<br />
For fillers in the background, try the fascinating gray<br />
foliage of Buddleia marrubifolia, woolly butterfly bush,<br />
combined with the silvery gray foliage of Encelia farinosa,<br />
brittlebush. Offset these with the brilliant green<br />
foliage and bright flowers of Salvia greggii, autumn<br />
sage. All are sun-loving and water-efficient, and blend<br />
well with other desert plants.<br />
Not to be forgotten are cacti and other succulents.<br />
They can be tucked in many places in the landscape.<br />
Smaller species can be used among rocks and boulders<br />
to provide miniature desert scenes for close-up viewing.<br />
Larger ones can be placed farther away for charming<br />
accents.<br />
Small Lawns for Landscapes<br />
Reducing an existing lawn area or making new lawns<br />
smaller than typical in the past helps curtail water use.<br />
Yet even a small lawn provides an important surface for<br />
play and visual relief from the earth tones of the desert.<br />
If you do have a lawn or are planning one for a new<br />
landscape, ask your nursery or sod grower about the<br />
current crop of water-conserving lawngrasses and how<br />
to water and maintain them.<br />
In the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, the most easily grown grasses<br />
are the permanent, warm-season Bermudagrasses.<br />
They are seeded—common Bermuda only, or sodded—<br />
hybrids, such as the ‘Tif’ series. Hybrid Bermudagrass<br />
provides a close-knit carpet that wears well. Its seed is<br />
sterile, so it must be planted from sod or stolons. Some<br />
hybrid varieties are slow growing so less frequent mowing<br />
is required.<br />
Hybrids are fast becoming the favorites, due to their<br />
finer texture and richer color. Indeed, some communities<br />
do not permit common Bermudagrass plantings due<br />
to its multiple problems. Common Bermudagrass readily<br />
goes to flower, producing highly allergenic pollen. It<br />
also reseeds, and is an aggressive spreader, becoming a<br />
weedy, invasive nuisance in other plantings. Color and<br />
texture are not as attractive. Hybrid Bermudagrass is<br />
highly preferable.<br />
Many types of grasses have been tested, but, to date,<br />
few show much promise. Buffalograss from Texas and<br />
northern Mexico may have the potential to be a high-<br />
142 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
quality, warm-season turf with better winter color than<br />
Bermudagrass, eliminating the need for overseeding in<br />
winter. However, it is not yet commonly available.<br />
Overseeding a Winter-Dormant Lawn<br />
Bermudagrass is a warm-season grass that becomes<br />
dormant with cold temperatures. It turns a straw<br />
color, but most folks prefer a green lawn. Our choices<br />
for green lawn in winter then become cool-season<br />
grasses. Sowing cool-season grass seed over a dormant<br />
Bermudagrass lawn, called overseeding, allows the gardener<br />
to have a green, thriving lawn all year-round.<br />
One of the main gardening chores in the low desert is<br />
the annual exercise of overseeding Bermuda lawns with<br />
ryegrass. Thousands of acres of lawns in parks, on golf<br />
courses and around homes go through this ritual each<br />
fall—when soil temperatures are 72°F to 78°F. This<br />
usually occurs October 1 to October 15. During this<br />
time annuals, perennials and bulbs are also planted for<br />
winter and spring color.<br />
Annual ryegrass and perennial ryegrass are the most<br />
common cool-season grasses used for overseeding.<br />
Annual rye grows rapidly, however, its ample growth<br />
demands more frequent mowing. Annual ryegrass<br />
leaves tend to be weaker and a lighter green color. It is<br />
less expensive than perennial rye. Perennial rye grass<br />
has greater vigor and develops more sturdy, spreading<br />
growth. Germination period for both types is generally<br />
3 to 10 days, depending on moisture coverage.<br />
Other grasses such as rough-stalked bluegrass and<br />
bentgrass are used on golf greens for putting surfaces.<br />
These fine-bladed grasses require much more maintenance<br />
than the rye grasses. Ask your cooperative extension<br />
or local nursery about the finer points of selecting a<br />
grass that will work best for your lawn situation.<br />
Container Gardening<br />
Container plants on your desert patio, at the entrance<br />
to your home or around the pool can play a personal or<br />
even sentimental role. In these areas you can showcase<br />
your favorite plants, and enjoy them at close range.<br />
These include plants that offer interesting structure such<br />
as bonsai plants, as well as colorful annuals, bulbs and<br />
fragrant flowering perennials or even shrubs.<br />
The portable container garden can move with you<br />
from one home to another, and, if placed on casters,<br />
containers can be moved according to the weather or the<br />
season. Move them out of the range of extremes in cold<br />
weather in winter, or to a shaded location as the heat and<br />
sun intensity increases in the summer.<br />
Containers are a wonderful way to enjoy a diversity<br />
of plants even if you live in a small lot. Large containers<br />
Bordering a lawn with a clean edge can enhance your landscape, giving it a finished appearance. This lawn is small<br />
and requires much less water and care than a traditional wall-to-wall lawn, yet it still provides cool, green relief.<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 143
can function as a screen or as a way to divide a garden<br />
or outdoor area. Containers are also a good way to raise<br />
plants to a height that is easier to work with, especially<br />
helpful for folks that have trouble bending and crouching.<br />
When it comes to vegetable gardening in containers,<br />
the dreaded chore of weeding is dramatically<br />
reduced. Plus many vegetable plants have an attractive,<br />
ornamental quality that you can be showcased in a<br />
container.<br />
Where you place your containers is entirely dependent<br />
on the need of sun or shade for each plant. If<br />
containers are mobile, you can move them as needed<br />
to protect plants from frost, wind, reflected heat and<br />
intense sunlight.<br />
Container Choices<br />
Select containers that are best adapted to deal with<br />
problems associated with our desert heat.<br />
Containers can be porous, which allows evaporation<br />
of moisture through the sides. Porous materials include<br />
unglazed clay, terra cotta or wood. Care must be taken<br />
that these types do not lose moisture too rapidly during<br />
warm periods of the year. However, if you water plants<br />
regularly, porous containers are more forgiving than<br />
non-porous ones.<br />
Non-porous containers include those made of porcelain,<br />
glazed ceramic and plastic. They allow less<br />
evaporation through the sides. It is easier to overwater<br />
these types of containers because evaporation of water<br />
is reduced. All containers must have a drainage hole<br />
or you run the risk of killing the plant with constantly<br />
saturated soil, which greatly reduces oxygen.<br />
Soil for Containers<br />
Most container plants are generally forgiving when it<br />
comes to soils. A quality, general-purpose soil mix is<br />
one-third ground bark, peat moss, or composted planter<br />
mix, one-third coarse sand, and one-third garden soil.<br />
Blend all three into a loose, friable mixture and moisten<br />
before you plant. Many brands of packaged mixes are<br />
available at nurseries and garden centers.<br />
Succulents, particularly cacti, need good drainage<br />
and generally less acidic soil. Use a mixture of one-third<br />
garden soil, one-third porous matter such as perlite or<br />
vermiculite, and one-third sand.<br />
Despite what many of us were taught years ago, new<br />
research shows that it is detrimental to plants to put anything<br />
other than soil into pots. Do not put stones, gravel,<br />
pots shards or anything in the bottom—it actually harms<br />
drainage. If you feel you must cover the drainage hole,<br />
use a piece of old window screen or nylon stocking.<br />
Leave space at the top of the container—one to three<br />
inches—depending on the size of the container and<br />
plant type. This allows room for each watering. With<br />
The portable container garden can move with you from one home to another. These containers are filled with<br />
colorful annuals and perennials, including white sweet alyssum, pansies and foxtail fern, Asparagus ÔMyersÕ.<br />
144 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
This demonstration garden shows a simple, yet effective method of using<br />
drip irrigation to water container plants.<br />
Red yucca, Hesperaloe parvifolia,<br />
makes a dramatic, container speci-<br />
each irrigation, water should flow through the soil mix<br />
on new plants as well as saturating the root ball of<br />
established plants.<br />
If water is flowing out of the container bottom too<br />
rapidly, there may be soil shrinkage due to excessive<br />
root growth. <strong>Water</strong> is not penetrating the rootball, but<br />
merely moving around and down the sides of the container,<br />
doing the plant little good. When this occurs, it’s<br />
time to replant with fresh soil in a larger container.<br />
Top-dressing the container soil is an option. Topdressing<br />
is any inert material in a 1- to 2-inch layer over<br />
the soil in pots. Pea gravel, small lava rock or smooth<br />
stones are topdressing materials. It reduces evaporation,<br />
prevents crusting of the soil, reduces water splash and<br />
improves appearance.<br />
Fertilizer must be furnished more frequently for plants<br />
in containers than for those in the ground. Measure and<br />
apply carefully according to label directions. Liquid<br />
types of organic fertilizers work best. Moisten soil prior<br />
to application and water it in. Don’t overdo fertilizer<br />
thinking “a little more” will help. Overfertilizing kills<br />
plants. For cacti and succulents, use fertilizer at half<br />
strength.<br />
Container Plants<br />
Containers can be used to house a single plant, or<br />
become a miniature garden with a number of different<br />
plants. Ideally you should match colors and shapes of<br />
pots to the plants you place in the container.<br />
For a pleasing blend of plants, the adage is “accent,<br />
filler, and spiller.” There should be an upright accent<br />
plant in the center, filler around it, and a spiller cascading<br />
over the edge. This can be done with any plants<br />
that share the same water requirements. Use succulents,<br />
perennials, annuals, bulbs or an enticing blend of vegetables<br />
and herbs.<br />
Containers are the most effective way to enjoy certain<br />
plants that are otherwise not candidates for growing in<br />
the desert. For example, some plants require acid soils<br />
and do not adapt well to treated soils. These include<br />
camellias, gardenias and azaleas. They generally do better<br />
in porous pots that evaporate through the sides.<br />
Containers are also ideal for some species of bulbs<br />
that are unable to survive hot soils, including Dutch<br />
tulips, daffodils, and hyacinths. Note that the Turkish<br />
tulips do fine in the desert garden.<br />
Succulents, including cacti, are a special part of<br />
the desert landscape. The majority are highly adapted<br />
to container culture. Most have fascinating shapes,<br />
textures and colors, making them ideal to collect and<br />
showcase in containers.<br />
Vegetable Gardens<br />
The <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> offers a wonderful climate for<br />
growing vegetables and fruits. Indeed, fruits and vegetables<br />
are grown commercially in the valley and<br />
shipped throughout the world. Growing conditions for<br />
vegetables are most favorable during fall, winter and<br />
into spring. Summer vegetables are more difficult to<br />
grow, but with the right heat-loving varieties and proper<br />
cultural practices, gardeners can be successful.<br />
If you are a new gardener or new to the desert, it is<br />
best to begin with a fall garden. Gardening in fall is<br />
more forgiving without the extreme summer heat, and<br />
you’re more likely to enjoy harvests that will be tasty<br />
and abundant. Keep in mind that even winter-grown<br />
gardens need irrigation on a regular basis.<br />
Ideally, plan on succession planting your garden<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 145
Winter vegetable gardensÑcool-season cropsÑare usually more successful than summer gardens because plants<br />
avoid intense heat. This planting of assorted lettuce varieties is not only bountiful but highly attractive.<br />
vegetables. This means sowing new seeds or setting out<br />
young plants every three weeks or so, not all at once.<br />
This will stagger and extend harvest times and avoid<br />
having an overabundance of produce all at one time.<br />
It is possible to grow many vegetables in a small plot,<br />
in containers, in borders or along a wall or fence. Select<br />
an exposure where vegetables will receive at least six<br />
hours of sun every day.<br />
Prepare soil well in advance of planting. Remove<br />
rocks, weeds and debris, then grade to create a smooth,<br />
level, ready-to-plant bed. Moisten soil to about 2 feet<br />
deep. Add ample organic material such as compost or<br />
forest mulch and mix thoroughly. Or, consider a raised<br />
bed garden surrounded by a low wall. You can sit and<br />
work in the garden, making it easier to plant, irrigate,<br />
thin seedlings, remove weeds and harvest crops.<br />
When sowing seeds directly into the garden, be aware<br />
that each seed has a preferred planting depth. You’ll find<br />
directions on seed packets. Don’t plant too deep.<br />
After planting seeds, tamp the soil firmly. <strong>Water</strong> seeds<br />
to remove air spaces in the soil. Use a fine-mist sprinkler<br />
or hose attachment to avoid disturbing or washing out<br />
seeds. Continue to sprinkle soil lightly on a regular basis<br />
until seeds germinate and seedlings produce three or four<br />
leaves. Now begin watering with a soaker hose or irrigation<br />
system. Check the soil for moisture several times a<br />
week. Dig down at least 6 inches deep and feel if the soil<br />
is moist. Be consistent with watering. A dry period can<br />
slow down or interrupt the growth process, which will<br />
likely reduce the amount and quality of harvests.<br />
Planting a Winter Garden<br />
The time to begin planting a winter garden is mid-<br />
September. The soil is warm and cooler temperatures<br />
that are soon to come are ideal for growing green leafy<br />
vegetables and root crops such as beets, carrots, endive,<br />
leeks, lettuce, green onions, radishes, spinach, turnips,<br />
broccoli, bok choy, pak choy, Brussels sprouts, cabbage,<br />
chard, mustard and peas. This is also the time to grow<br />
cool-season garden herbs such as cilantro, chives, parsley,<br />
dill and fennel.<br />
Planting a Summer Garden<br />
Beginning in early February, you can plant many of the<br />
warm-season crops—onions, garlic, potatoes, tomatoes,<br />
sweet corn, squash, gourds, eggplant, sweet or bell peppers,<br />
chili peppers and melons. The prime summer herb<br />
is basil. Many summer vegetables are handsome plants,<br />
and can be mixed into flowerbeds.<br />
Plant seeds or set out young tomato, pepper and<br />
146 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
eggplants after all danger of frost has passed. In the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> the average dates for the last frost can<br />
range from late January to early March, but the official<br />
date is March 1. Seedlings and plants in 4-inch pots<br />
are usually available at local nurseries during this time,<br />
ready to plant. A word of caution: don’t set out a large<br />
number of plants. Just a few plants of most vegetables<br />
will produce enough harvests for the average home.<br />
Because intense heat is coming all too soon, plant<br />
varieties that are early maturing and heat tolerant. Native<br />
varieties of crops, rather than hybrids, often do better.<br />
A number of seed companies are now providing desertadapted<br />
varieties of common vegetables.<br />
Fruits—Trees and More<br />
A wide variety of fruit- and nut-producing plants grow<br />
well in our desert, and can be done without an extensive<br />
orchard. Many landscape trees, shrubs or vines will<br />
also provide you with delicious harvests. Select from<br />
apricot, citrus, date, elderberry, fig, grape, olive, peach,<br />
pear, pecan, persimmon, pistachio, plum, pomegranate<br />
and exotic tropicals such as guava, pineapple guava,<br />
natal plum, loquat (Japanese medlar), and jaboticaba.<br />
(Avocado is tropical as well but may not survive our<br />
periodic freezes.) A number of native plants provide<br />
edible fruit, including prickly pear, cholla, squawberry,<br />
wolfberry, saguaro and velvet mesquite, the pods which<br />
can be ground into a sweet flour.<br />
Deciduous Fruit Trees<br />
Deciduous trees, those in which leaves drop from<br />
branches in winter, are often placed in the background of<br />
the landscape. Although it is an excellent energy-saving<br />
practice to locate deciduous trees along a south-facing<br />
wall for summer cooling of the home, only do so with<br />
figs and pomegranate from the list following.<br />
Figs—Silvery gray bark and lush green leaves place<br />
figs at the top of the list for an oasis landscape. If your<br />
landscape space is limited, figs can be espaliered. There<br />
are ten commonly grown varieties of figs, and all do<br />
well in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Selection then becomes a<br />
matter of taste.<br />
‘Mission’ is the most dependable, all-around fig,<br />
typically producing two crops per year. Fruit has black<br />
skin. Use fresh, dried or preserved. ‘Kadota’ has yellow<br />
skin and amber pulp. Fruit is good when dried. ‘Brown<br />
Turkey’ is best eaten fresh.<br />
Peaches and Nectarines—Select from low-chill varieties<br />
of peaches such as ‘Blazing Gold’, ‘Gold Dust’,<br />
‘Desert Gold’ and ‘Babcock.’ They ripen early and produce<br />
reasonable crops. Also consider ‘Party News Four<br />
Stars,’ which produces in mid-season. Dwarf ‘Bonanza<br />
Peach’ eventually reaches 6 feet high. Its mature size is<br />
suited to border areas, or even grow it in a large container.<br />
Old favorites such as ‘Elberta’, or ‘J. H. Hale’ are<br />
not adapted to our low desert climate.<br />
Nectarine varieties with low-chilling requirements<br />
include early fruiting ‘Desert Dawn’, ‘Gold Mine’ and<br />
‘Sunred’.<br />
For all peaches and nectarines, prune to remove two<br />
out of every three branches formed the previous year to<br />
create new fruiting wood and improved harvests.<br />
Pomegranates—A succulent fruit from ancient times,<br />
pomegranates have been grown in low-elevation deserts<br />
for many millennia. They tolerate alkaline soils well,<br />
and add year-round interest to the landscape. (See page<br />
64.) Spring brings large, vivid red flowers, followed by<br />
ruby red fruit against brilliant green foliage. Fall foliage<br />
is golden yellow, and in winter, the bare branches and<br />
trunks show off their smooth, silver-gray bark.<br />
Full sun is important. Bare-root trees can be planted<br />
in December, January and February. Container-grown<br />
plants can be set out any time, with fall the best period.<br />
Regular deep irrigation is required for crop production.<br />
Selectively prune one-third of the previous year’s<br />
growth each winter or trees become too twiggy.<br />
‘Wonderful’ is an improved selection generally grown<br />
as a large shrub to 10 feet high and as wide.<br />
Citrus<br />
Citrus trees are abundant in their offerings to desert<br />
gardeners, with lush evergreen foliage, fragrant flowers<br />
Pomegranate is a Òtriple-treatÓ plant. It is attractive in<br />
the landscape, and produces striking, bright red flowers<br />
that are followed by its tasty fruit.<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 147
and decorative, tasty fruit. High heat required by most<br />
citrus is easily met in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. Full flavor<br />
and juiciness develop better here than almost anywhere.<br />
Planting New Trees<br />
Citrus plants need deep, well-drained soil. In frost-free<br />
areas they can be planted any time. In colder parts of the<br />
valley, wait to plant in spring after danger of frost has<br />
passed (March 15).<br />
When planting more than one tree in an average-sized<br />
garden, space grapefruit 20 feet apart; most other citrus<br />
15 feet apart. Plant in the warmest location available—in<br />
full sun or with some afternoon shade.<br />
Irrigating Newly Planted Citrus—Build a basin around<br />
newly planted plants at least 4 feet in diameter with sides<br />
about 6 inches high. For March-planted trees, fill basin<br />
and soak soil to 2 feet deep at least twice a week from<br />
March to May. Soak to 3 feet deep about twice a week<br />
June through September. Extend watering frequency to<br />
every 10 to 12 days during winter months. By March the<br />
tree can be considered established and can be irrigated<br />
as a mature tree.<br />
Irrigating Mature Citrus—After trees are established,<br />
maintain a dry area about 12 inches in diameter area<br />
around the base of the trunk. Slightly raise the soil level<br />
so that the basin tapers down and away from the trunk,<br />
preventing water from coming in regular contact with<br />
the trunk. This reduces the chance of gummosis, a disease<br />
that can kill plants. Continue to extend the edges of<br />
the basin as the tree grows. As a guide, make the basin<br />
slightly wider than the spread of branches.<br />
Irrigation depth for citrus is ideally 3 to 4 feet, allowing<br />
the soil to become mostly dry prior to watering<br />
again. In sandy soils, water trees every 10 to 14 days<br />
from March through May. <strong>Water</strong> once a week from June<br />
through September. <strong>Water</strong> every two to three weeks from<br />
October through February. <strong>Water</strong> less often in heavier<br />
clay soils.<br />
If in doubt about how much and when to water, check<br />
the soil for moisture. It is simple to check irrigation<br />
depth with a soil probe. This is a long, metal rod (purchased<br />
or handmade) that can be pushed into the soil. It<br />
penetrates as deeply as the moisture, stopping when it<br />
reaches dry soil.<br />
Mulch materials—bark, planter mix, even rocks and<br />
gravel, to name a few, should be applied over the basin<br />
area to keep roots cool, reduce water loss through evaporation<br />
and to suppress weed growth. A 3-inch layer of<br />
mulch will keep roots 8°F to 10°F cooler. This also helps<br />
reduce digging or cultivating, which will disturb surface<br />
roots. Keep mulch away from trunk to reduce chance of<br />
gummosis disease.<br />
If citrus are growing in a lawn, keep grass from growing<br />
beneath the tree’s canopy. Create a basin, cover with<br />
mulch and water deeply, as recommended above. Try to<br />
avoid having spray from lawn sprinklers hitting trees.<br />
ÔValenciaÕ orange is one of the easiest citrus to grow.<br />
It is primarily used as a juice orange.<br />
Grapefruit are good citrus choices for the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong>. This is ÔRio RedÕ.<br />
148 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
Fertilizing Citrus<br />
Make the first application of a complete citrus fertilizer<br />
in February to help set blossoms. Follow with one application<br />
per month until September. At the least, remember<br />
to fertilize on these holidays: Easter, Memorial Day,<br />
and Labor Day. Apply fertilizer according to product<br />
label directions. Dissolve in water or spread dry fertilizer<br />
evenly across the watering basin, and water thoroughly<br />
after applying.<br />
Pruning Citrus<br />
Remove all dead wood, crossed limbs and control haphazard<br />
growth. Pull off suckers rather than pruning them<br />
to reduce the chance that they’ll regrow. Low-hanging<br />
branches around the perimeter of the tree should not be<br />
removed. They help the tree shade itself, preventing sunburn<br />
of the bark. If the tree is pruned so that the trunk is<br />
exposed, whitewash or wrap the trunk to protect it.<br />
Lemons often require more pruning than other citrus<br />
due to their rapid and sometimes rampant growth. Heavy<br />
pruning may reduce the number of lemons produced, but<br />
it may improve the size and quality of fruit. Lemon trees<br />
may be pruned to fit the available garden space or kept at<br />
8 to 12 feet high to make it easier to harvest the fruit.<br />
Sun Protection<br />
This is only necessary if trees are pruned too much. To<br />
avoid sunburned trunks, wrap with tree wraps or paint<br />
trunk with white latex paint diluted with water (50:50<br />
solution).<br />
Fruit Drop<br />
Some immature fruit can be expected to drop after blossoms<br />
fall and until fruit becomes 1/2-inch in diameter.<br />
Excess fruit drop can be caused by lack of moisture or<br />
fertilizer, overfertilization, excessive pruning, sudden<br />
change in temperature, freezing, poor soil drainage and<br />
insect pests. Avoid these by careful irrigation, prune<br />
carefully, control pests and fertilize on schedule. (See<br />
Month-by-Month Gardening in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>,<br />
pages 21 to 25.)<br />
Frost Damage<br />
Prune a frost-damaged tree only after new growth<br />
develops. Following a severe freeze, die-back may continue<br />
into late spring and summer. If the tree is heavily<br />
damaged, remove the fruit. <strong>Water</strong> only enough to meet<br />
the needs of the tree. Fertilize frost-damaged trees less<br />
heavily than healthy trees.<br />
Harvesting Citrus Fruit<br />
Fully ripe citrus will drop into your hand when the stem<br />
A dry creek bed can be used to reduce turf areas, provide an avenue for drainage and create a setting for a natural<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 149
is twisted lightly. If you have to tug, the fruit is not yet<br />
ripe. If you must, remove fruit by cutting the stem.<br />
Most citrus fruit can be left on the tree for long periods—some<br />
for several months. The rind must not be cut<br />
or split if the fruit is to be stored. Harvested fruit keeps<br />
best at 60°F, or at room temperature out of direct light. If<br />
stored in a frost-free refrigerator, plastic reduces withering.<br />
Frost-damaged fruit feels hard to the touch and the<br />
segments inside are often dry and mealy.<br />
Pest and Disease Control<br />
The average homeowner, even with several citrus trees,<br />
will not be much bothered by pests. Encourage insect-eating<br />
birds (see Creating a Wildlife Habitat, following) and<br />
you may never see a pest outbreak.<br />
Monitor trees for severe infestations of aphids, thrips,<br />
scale and whiteflies. If seen in high numbers, you can treat<br />
with insecticides. If ripe fruit is on the tree, harvest enough<br />
for eating to last at least three weeks before applying any<br />
insecticide. A second application may be necessary three<br />
weeks later. Most important, use only products labeled for<br />
use on citrus, and follow all product label directions.<br />
Gummosis is a bark disease, evidenced by scaly bark<br />
and sap flow, most often seen at the base of the tree.<br />
It develops after bark is sunburned, in poorly drained<br />
soils, or when wet soil remains in contact with the bark.<br />
Treat affected trunks by removing scaly bark and rinsing<br />
the area with one teaspoon of potassium permanganate<br />
diluted in one pint of water. Keep soil and moisture away<br />
from the wound.<br />
Chlorosis can be seen when leaf veins remain a dark<br />
green and the rest of the leaf turns a pale yellow. It is a<br />
good indication the plant is not able to absorb the iron it<br />
needs. This can be treated by acidifying the soil beneath<br />
the tree with used coffee grounds, or 1 cup vinegar to<br />
5 gallons water. Ideally, address the problem by adding<br />
organic mulch. You can also add compost to the soil, but<br />
dig up only one sixth of the root zone at a time. In sandy<br />
soils, iron may actually be lacking, in which case add<br />
iron chelate. A chlorotic condition also can be caused by<br />
excessive irrigation, which leaches away fertilizer and<br />
other nutrients.<br />
Adding a Dry Creek to your Landscape<br />
Many landscapes, large or small, benefit from the visual<br />
interest of a unique landscape feature—a dry creek bed. A<br />
dry creek bed identifies the landscape as truly southwest,<br />
simulating the arroyos of our local foothills.<br />
This feature has the added benefit of reducing or eliminating<br />
lawn areas, provides a means for drainage and creates<br />
the backbone and setting of a natural habitat. Properly<br />
placed flowering accent plants, small shrubs, ground<br />
covers and wildflowers complement natural placement of<br />
pebbles, rocks and boulders.<br />
Begin by creating a meandering swale 1-1/2 to 2 feet<br />
deep and 3 to 5 feet wide. Line the bottom and sides with<br />
3- to 6-inch stones bolstered with clusters of 2- to 3-foot<br />
diameter boulders along edges. Bury rocks and boulders<br />
one-quarter to one-third of their depth for a more natural<br />
effect.<br />
Natural areas such as this, with perennials and wildflowers,<br />
complement other plantings, and provide color<br />
for long periods. Native plants to enhance the feature<br />
could include ground covers such as Calylophus hartwegii,<br />
calylophus; Dalea greggii, trailing indigo bush; or<br />
Wedelia trilobata, yellow dot.<br />
Add some color and varying height with flowers such<br />
as Penstemon species, penstemon; Baileya multiradiata,<br />
desert marigold; Hymenoxys acaulis, angelita daisy;<br />
Sphaeralcea ambigua, globe mallow; and Rudbeckia<br />
columnaris, Mexican hat.<br />
Small shrubs such as Calliandra eriophylla, fairy<br />
duster; Cleome isomeris, bladderpod; Hyptis emoryi, desert<br />
lavender, and Ericameria laricifolia, turpentine bush;<br />
work well together, for both their foliage and seasonal<br />
flower color.<br />
An added bonus is that many of these plants re-seed<br />
readily, reinforcing the natural appearance. The boulders<br />
and stones provide plenty of nooks and crannies to<br />
encourage seeds to germinate.<br />
In a mature garden, a dry creek bed can help the landscape<br />
“flow together,” stimulating and creating a new,<br />
exciting look.<br />
Creating a Wildlife Habitat<br />
Every living thing needs water, food and shelter. If you<br />
provide these in your landscape, wildlife are sure to come.<br />
No matter how distant our urban areas are removed from<br />
nature, a surprising selection of creatures will discover<br />
your wildlife habitat. It is then that you will discover the<br />
magic and mysteries of nature so rich in our desert land.<br />
Your entire landscape can become a welcoming place for<br />
birds, butterflies and native animals. With proper selection<br />
of plants you can enjoy a lush, low-water oasis, wildlife<br />
and year-round color.<br />
If you are unsure of how to begin, start small in a corner<br />
of your landscape, then expand as you begin to see what<br />
works and doesn’t work. Include as many plants as possible<br />
that are native to the desert. Locate habitat in a quiet<br />
part of the garden where trees and plants can grow as they<br />
will. Unpruned or lightly pruned forms will provide the<br />
food and shelter wildlife seek. Plants that grow naturally,<br />
with branches reaching to the ground, are preferred. Their<br />
density creates safe places for hiding, resting and nesting.<br />
150 u Landscapes & Special Gardens
<strong>Water</strong> is a necessary element in a wildlife habitat. A<br />
water source can be as simple as a dripping faucet, a small,<br />
shallow fountain or a shallow water dish, such as a large<br />
decorative plant saucer.<br />
Plants can provide food for wildlife without our even<br />
noticing it. Nectar, seeds, fruits, and larval food for butterflies<br />
are all important in the wildlife garden. Plants also<br />
nurture numerous different species of insects that are not<br />
pests, yet are important food sources for many species of<br />
birds. For example, hummingbirds require insect protein<br />
to lay eggs and raise their young. Also their tiny nests will<br />
fall apart without ample spider webbing in the construction.<br />
Wildflowers and perennials with deep-throated, brightly<br />
colored flowers full of nectar are essential to attract hummingbirds<br />
and butterflies. Ground covers such as lantana<br />
and verbena are loved by butterflies. Flowers and grasses<br />
that produce seeds become dependable food sources for<br />
seed-eating birds such as quail, dove and lesser goldfinch.<br />
A bird feeder or two may be fine to interest small birds,<br />
but avoid broadcasting great quantities of seed or grain<br />
on the ground. This often merely attracts larger birds and<br />
pigeons, which can stress the habitat and bird population.<br />
It may also attract undesirable rodents and the snakes that<br />
prey on them.<br />
As the garden ages, the gradually enriching soil becomes<br />
an ideal home for earthworms, lizards and other soilrelated<br />
animals and insects. They help develop a balanced<br />
food cycle for all the residents. And when you create the<br />
right environment, roadrunners, quail, thrashers, and other<br />
native birds help keep snails, slugs and other pests under<br />
control.<br />
The list on this page provides just a sampling of arid<br />
land plants to help create your wildlife habitat. Also note<br />
plants as you read through Success with Desert Plants,<br />
pages 43 to 135.<br />
Plants for Wildlife Habitats<br />
in the <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
trees for shade and resting<br />
Acacia berlandieri, Guajillo<br />
Cercidium floridum, Blue Palo Verde<br />
Chilopsis linearis, Desert Willow<br />
Lysiloma watsonii var. thornberi, Feather Tree<br />
Olneya tesota, Desert Ironwood<br />
Prosopis velutina, Velvet Mesquite<br />
Vitex agnus-castus, Chaste Tree<br />
shrubs for nectar, seed and shelter<br />
Anisacanthus species, Desert Honeysuckle<br />
Atriplex canescens, Fourwing Saltbush<br />
Buddleia marrubifolia, Woolly Butterfly Bush<br />
Cleome isomeris, Bladderpod<br />
Calliandra species, Fairy Duster<br />
Encelia farinosa, Brittle Bush<br />
Justicia species, Chuparosa and Shrimp Plant<br />
Punica granatum, Pomegranate<br />
flowers for seed, nectar<br />
Aquilegia species, Columbine<br />
Baileya multiradiata, Desert Marigold<br />
Dalea species, Dalea (ground cover forms)<br />
Lantana species, Lantana (ground cover forms)<br />
Penstemon species, Penstemon, Bearded Tongue<br />
Salvia species, Sage<br />
Zauschneria californica, Hummingbird Trumpet<br />
Zinnia acerosa, Desert Zinnia<br />
vines for food and nectar<br />
Campsis radicans, Trumpet flower<br />
Passiflora species, Passionflower<br />
Rosa banksiae, Lady Banks Rose<br />
Tecomaria capensis, Cape Honeysuckle<br />
cacti and succulents for nectar and seed<br />
Aloe species, Aloes<br />
Asclepias linaria, Threadleaf Milkweed<br />
Asclepias subulata, Desert Milkweed<br />
Carnegia gigantia, Saguaro<br />
Ferocactus species, Barrel Cactus<br />
Fouquieria splendens, Ocotillo<br />
Hesperaloe parviflora, Red Yucca<br />
Opuntia species, Prickly Pear<br />
Plant flowering perennials to attract hummingbirds to<br />
your garden.<br />
...and don't forget ornamental grasses<br />
for nesting material.<br />
Landscapes & Special Gardens u 151
Glossary<br />
Acid, Acidic<br />
[soil]ÑHaving a pH value<br />
below 7. See pH.<br />
Alkaline [soil]ÑA pH<br />
value above 7. See pH.<br />
Alluvial [soil,<br />
slopes]ÑAreas of<br />
Òyoung,Ó rocky soils,<br />
typically at the bases of<br />
mountains.<br />
Alternate [leaves]ÑBorne<br />
singly at each node, in a<br />
spiral up a stem.<br />
AngiospermÑPlant that<br />
has its seeds enclosed in<br />
an ovary.<br />
AnnualÑPlant that completes<br />
its life cycle in one<br />
season or one year.<br />
AntherÑPart of a stamen<br />
that produces pollen, usually<br />
borne on a filament.<br />
ApexÑTip or growing<br />
point of an organ such as<br />
a shoot or branch tip.<br />
AquaticÑPlant that grows<br />
in water.<br />
ArchitecturalÑPlants that<br />
have strong and often<br />
spectacular shapes.<br />
BackfillÑSoil that is<br />
returned to planting hole<br />
to fill in around rootball of<br />
plant.<br />
Bare RootÑPlants that are<br />
sold without soil around<br />
their roots, which occurs<br />
when they are dormant.<br />
Roses and certain deciduous<br />
fruit trees are examples.<br />
Beneficial InsectsÑInsects<br />
that prey and feed on<br />
insect pests that attack<br />
garden plants.<br />
BiennialÑPlant that completes<br />
its life cycle in two<br />
years, usually flowering<br />
and fruiting the second<br />
year.<br />
Blow SandÑSand that is<br />
blown into an area, propelled<br />
by strong winds.<br />
Can damage plants and<br />
property if wind velocity is<br />
too high.<br />
BoltÑTo produce flowers<br />
and seed, sometimes prematurely,<br />
such as Òbolt to<br />
seed.Ó<br />
BractÑModified leaves<br />
that may take on the<br />
appearance of flower<br />
petals. Bracts are usually<br />
green but can be conspicuous<br />
and colorful such as<br />
those of bougainvillea.<br />
BudÑRudimentary or condensed<br />
shoot containing<br />
embryonic leaves and or<br />
flowers.<br />
CalicheÑSoil condition<br />
created when a deposit<br />
of calcium carbonate is<br />
located beneath the soil<br />
surface. Found throughout<br />
the Southwest.<br />
ChlorosisÑNutrient deficiency<br />
in plants. Indicated<br />
by leaves that have a<br />
yellowish cast. Iron chlorosis<br />
is common in the<br />
Southwest U.S.<br />
CIMISÑCalifornia<br />
Irrigation Management<br />
Information System.<br />
Computer-generated<br />
information from weather<br />
stations across the state<br />
record and disseminate<br />
data to help determine a<br />
plantÕs water need.<br />
CompostÑMixture of<br />
decomposed vegetative<br />
matter, useful for amending<br />
soil, mulching and<br />
fertilizing.<br />
Controller (irrigation<br />
system)ÑRegulates when<br />
and how much water is<br />
applied via an irrigation<br />
system. Also known as a<br />
timer.<br />
CrownÑPlace on a plant<br />
where roots and stems<br />
join. Important to position<br />
most plants with the<br />
crown just slightly above<br />
soil level when planting to<br />
prevent rot.<br />
CultivarÑCultivated variety<br />
of a plant, rather than<br />
a variety that occurs naturally<br />
in the wild. Properly<br />
designated with single<br />
quotation marks around<br />
the name, or with the<br />
abbreviation Òcv.Ó<br />
CuttingsÑSometimes<br />
called "slips." Portions of<br />
stem or root that can be<br />
induced to form roots and<br />
develop into new plants.<br />
DeadheadÑRemoving<br />
flower heads after they<br />
are past prime, which can<br />
encourage more flowers.<br />
DeciduousÑLosing leaves<br />
or other plant parts during<br />
dormant season of year.<br />
Plant almost appears to<br />
die but regrows the next<br />
season.<br />
DivisionÑPropagation<br />
by dividing a clump into<br />
several parts, often done<br />
while plant is dormant.<br />
Dormant,<br />
DormancyÑPlant that is<br />
alive but is not actively<br />
growing.<br />
Drainage (soil)Ñ<strong>Water</strong><br />
movement through the<br />
soil, in regard to plant<br />
roots. Sandy soils are fastdraining;<br />
clay soils drain<br />
slowly.<br />
Drip IrrigationÑSystem<br />
where water is delivered<br />
(dripped) to plants at their<br />
root zones by emitters.<br />
Drip LineÑImaginary area<br />
around a tree or shrub that<br />
marks its widest growth.<br />
So called because rain<br />
tends to drip from plant<br />
leaves to the ground at its<br />
drip line.<br />
Drought<br />
TolerantÑInherent ability<br />
of a plant to survive without<br />
water for long periods<br />
of time.<br />
EmitterÑIrrigation equipment<br />
that allows water to<br />
be applied slowly to plant<br />
roots in controlled increments,<br />
such as 1-gallon,<br />
2-gallon or 5-gallon. Also<br />
called drip emitter.<br />
EspalierÑA tree, shrub or<br />
vine trained (pruned) to<br />
grow flat against a wall or<br />
trellis.<br />
EstablishÑTime it requires<br />
a plant to adjust to its life<br />
in the ground after planting<br />
and produce good<br />
root and top growth. Most<br />
plants are considered<br />
ÒestablishedÓ after living<br />
and growing through two<br />
summer seasons.<br />
Evapotranspiration<br />
(ET)ÑEvaporation of moisture<br />
from a leafÕs surface.<br />
The ET rate for a given<br />
plant is the amount of<br />
moisture it needs to sustain<br />
itself.<br />
EvergreenÑPlant that has<br />
green leaves throughout<br />
the year.<br />
FamilyÑA biological classification.<br />
All members of<br />
a plant family share certain<br />
characteristics that are<br />
not found in other families.<br />
See Genus.<br />
Feeder RootsÑRoots that<br />
absorb moisture and nutrients<br />
for a plant, typically<br />
located at the perimeter<br />
of a plant beyond its drip<br />
line.<br />
FloretÑSmall, individual<br />
flower in the flowerheads<br />
of such plants as broccoli<br />
or sunflower.<br />
FlowerÑReproductive unit<br />
of an angiosperm. The<br />
basic flower forms are<br />
single, with one row of<br />
usually 3 to 6 petals; semidouble,<br />
with more pet-<br />
152 u Glossary
als, usually in two rows;<br />
double, with many petals<br />
in several rows and few<br />
or no stamens; and fully<br />
double, usually rounded<br />
in shape, with densely<br />
packed petals and with<br />
stamens obscured.<br />
FoliageÑA plantÕs leaves.<br />
GenusÑMost important<br />
subdivision of a plant or<br />
animal family, designated<br />
by the first word in the<br />
botanical name. In Salvia<br />
elegans, (pineapple sage),<br />
Salvia is the genus, elegans<br />
is the species. Also<br />
see Species.<br />
Growing SeasonÑDays<br />
between last frost and first<br />
frost. In the <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> it is approximately<br />
330 days.<br />
Habit (growth,<br />
flowering)ÑThe natural<br />
form or tendencies of a<br />
plant. For example, typical<br />
growth habits are compact,<br />
upright or spreading.<br />
Harden OffÑTo gradually<br />
adjust (harden) plants<br />
to colder temperatures.<br />
Common when plants<br />
from a nursery greenhouse<br />
are brought home.<br />
HardpanÑSee Caliche.<br />
HardscapeÑPart of the<br />
landscape that cannot<br />
absorb water, such as<br />
sidewalks, patios, rooftops<br />
and driveways.<br />
Hardy, Cold<br />
HardyÑDescribes a<br />
plant's resistance to,<br />
or tolerance of, frost or<br />
freezing temperatures<br />
(as in "hardy to 20FÓ).<br />
The word does not mean<br />
tough, pest resistant or disease<br />
resistant. See Tender.<br />
HeadingÑalso called<br />
Topping. Removing limbs<br />
and branches at arbitrary<br />
height, which ruins the<br />
treeÕs form.<br />
HerbaceousÑIn a general<br />
sense, plants having nonwoody<br />
tissues.<br />
HybridÑOffspring of<br />
genetically different parents,<br />
usually produced<br />
accidentally or artificially<br />
in cultivation. Rarely<br />
occurs in the wild. See<br />
Cultivar.<br />
HydrozoningÑGrouping<br />
and placing plants in<br />
a landscape according<br />
to water requirement.<br />
Typical zones are high,<br />
moderate and low.<br />
Leach, LeachingÑThe<br />
washing action of rainfall<br />
or irrigation water to move<br />
nutrients or salts from the<br />
upper layers of soil where<br />
plant roots are located.<br />
LeaderÑIn a single-trunk<br />
shrub or tree, the central,<br />
upward-growing stem.<br />
Loam (soil)ÑWell-structured,<br />
fertile soil that is<br />
moisture retentive and<br />
well drained.<br />
MicroclimateÑA small<br />
climate that differs from a<br />
surrounding large climate<br />
zone. Can be as small as a<br />
cooler location beneath a<br />
canopy tree compared to<br />
a warm exposure against a<br />
south-facing wall.<br />
MulchÑA layer of matter<br />
applied to the soil, often<br />
over a plantÕs root zone<br />
to conserve moisture,<br />
protect the roots from temperature<br />
extremes, reduce<br />
weed growth and enrich<br />
the soil.<br />
Native PlantÑA plant that<br />
grows in the wild in a<br />
given region.<br />
NaturalizeÑPlants that<br />
spread on their own to<br />
grow in an area. For<br />
example, wildflowers can<br />
reseed to naturalize in a<br />
given location.<br />
Organic MatterÑMaterials<br />
blended into soil to<br />
improve plant growth.<br />
Compost, peat moss and<br />
bark products are examples.<br />
Overseed (lawn)ÑAs<br />
warm-season grasses such<br />
as Bermuda go dormant<br />
and turn brown in winter,<br />
cool-season grasses such<br />
as annual or perennial rye<br />
are seeded over the lawn.<br />
PerennialÑPlant that lives<br />
for at least three seasons,<br />
normally flowering every<br />
year. Usually herbaceous<br />
(nonwoody).<br />
PetioleÑThe stalk to<br />
which a leaf is attached.<br />
pH, pH ScaleÑA measure<br />
of soil acidity or alkalinity.<br />
0-6.9 is acid;<br />
7 is neutral, 7.1-14 is<br />
alkaline.<br />
RhizomeÑUnderground<br />
stem that lives for more<br />
than one season. Iris have<br />
rhizomes.<br />
RunnerÑHorizontally<br />
spreading stem that forms<br />
roots at nodes. Often confused<br />
with stolon.<br />
RunoffÑWhen rainfall<br />
or irrigation is too great<br />
for the soil to absorb and<br />
water is wasted as it<br />
Òruns off.Ó<br />
Self-Seed, Self-<br />
SowÑDropping or freely<br />
distributing its seed, from<br />
which new plants grow<br />
the following season.<br />
Soil ProbeÑA device,<br />
usually a metal rod, that<br />
is pushed into moistened<br />
soil to gauge how deeply<br />
moisture has reached into<br />
the soil.<br />
SpeciesÑPlants having<br />
certain differences from<br />
other plants within the<br />
same genus. See Genus.<br />
StolonÑStem that grows<br />
horizontally along the<br />
ground, taking root at<br />
intervals, often forming<br />
new plants where it roots.<br />
SuckerÑPlant growth that<br />
appears different from<br />
other stems and branches<br />
on a grafted plant.<br />
Sucker growth should be<br />
removed, especially if<br />
below the graft union of<br />
roses and fruit trees.<br />
Tender, Cold<br />
TenderÑSusceptible to<br />
cold temperature damage,<br />
as<br />
contrasted to Hardy.<br />
TopiaryÑTechnique of<br />
shaping shrubs and trees<br />
into formalized shapes,<br />
often in geometric or<br />
animal forms.<br />
Transitional<br />
GardenÑPlants with low<br />
to moderate water needs<br />
that blend with and make<br />
the transition between a<br />
high-water oasis garden<br />
and low-water plants on<br />
the landscape perimeter.<br />
UmbelÑClusters of florets<br />
resembling an umbrella<br />
supported by small stems<br />
that seem to rise from the<br />
same point.<br />
VariegatedÑMarked with<br />
patches or streaks of<br />
different colors.<br />
VarietyÑNaturally occurring<br />
variation of a species.<br />
Abbreviated as var. or v.<br />
WindbreakÑPlanting of<br />
trees and shrubs to block,<br />
filter or deflect the wind.<br />
WindthrowÑPlant, usually<br />
a tree, uprooted by strong<br />
winds.<br />
XeriscapeÑA method<br />
of landscaping that uses<br />
common-sense plant<br />
selection and maintenance<br />
principles to save<br />
water while enhancing<br />
our surroundings.<br />
Glossary u 153
Resources<br />
In addition to this book,<br />
many other valuable<br />
resources and reference<br />
materials are available,<br />
several are listed here.<br />
Videotapes and CD-<br />
ROMs add visual elements<br />
to the educational<br />
process. In fact, <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong> supplements<br />
this publication<br />
with a CD-ROM version,<br />
available directly from the<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong><br />
<strong>District</strong>.<br />
This publication can<br />
also be viewed on-line at<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong><br />
<strong>District</strong>'s internet site:<br />
www.cvwd.org. Searches<br />
for Òdesert landscapingÓ<br />
and Òwater conservationÓ<br />
will lead you to<br />
new web sites for more<br />
information.<br />
Books<br />
California Native Trees<br />
and Shrubs, Lee W.<br />
Lentz and John Dourley,<br />
Rancho Santa Ana<br />
Botanical Garden,<br />
Claremont, Calif.<br />
Citrus, Lance Walheim,<br />
Ironwood Press, Tucson,<br />
Ariz.<br />
Coping with Soil<br />
Salinity, Sam Aslan, U.S.<br />
Department of Agriculture<br />
Consolidated Farm<br />
Service Agency, Indio,<br />
Calif., field office<br />
Desert Accent Plants;<br />
Desert Bird Gardening;<br />
Desert Butterfly<br />
Gardening; Desert<br />
Grasses; Desert Ground<br />
Covers & Vines; Desert<br />
Shrubs; Native Trees; and<br />
Desert Wildflowers are<br />
booklets available from<br />
Arizona Native Plant<br />
Society, Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Desert GardenerÕs<br />
154 u Resources<br />
Calendar, George<br />
Brookbank, University of<br />
Arizona Press, Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Desert Landscape<br />
Architecture, John Krieg,<br />
CRC Press, Tampa, Fla.<br />
Desert Landscaping,<br />
George Brookbank,<br />
University of Arizona<br />
Press, Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Earth-Friendly Desert<br />
Gardening, Cathy<br />
Cromell, Arizona<br />
Master Gardener Press,<br />
University of Arizona<br />
Maricopa County<br />
Cooperative Extension,<br />
Phoenix, Ariz.<br />
Gardening in the Desert,<br />
Mary Irish, University of<br />
Arizona Press, Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Gardening in the<br />
Southwest, Sunset<br />
Publishing, Menlo Park,<br />
Calif.<br />
How to Grow The<br />
Wildflowers, Eric A.<br />
Johnson and Scott<br />
Millard, Ironwood Press,<br />
Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Landscape Plants for Dry<br />
Regions, Warren Jones<br />
and Charles Sacamano,<br />
Perseus Publishing,<br />
Cambridge, Mass.<br />
Landscape Plants for<br />
Western Regions, Bob<br />
Perry, Land Design<br />
Publishing, San Dimas,<br />
Calif.<br />
The Low-<strong>Water</strong> Flower<br />
Gardener, Eric A. Johnson<br />
and Scott Millard,<br />
Ironwood Press, Tucson,<br />
Ariz.<br />
Low-<strong>Water</strong> Use Plants,<br />
Carol Schuler, Fisher<br />
Books, Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Native Plants for<br />
Southwestern Landscapes,<br />
Judy Mielke, University of<br />
Texas Press, Austin, Texas<br />
Native Texas Plants,<br />
Sally Wasowski and<br />
Andy Wasowski, Gulf<br />
Publishing, Houston,<br />
Texas<br />
Natural by Design, Judith<br />
Phillips, Museum of New<br />
Mexico Press, Santa Fe,<br />
New Mexico<br />
Natural History of the<br />
Sonoran Desert, Steve<br />
Phillips, editor, Arizona-<br />
Sonora Desert Museum<br />
Press, Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Plants for Dry Climates,<br />
Revised Edition, Mary<br />
Rose Duffield and<br />
Warren D. Jones, Perseus<br />
Publishing, Cambridge,<br />
Mass.<br />
Plants for Natural<br />
Gardens, Judith Phillips,<br />
Museum of New Mexico<br />
Press, Santa Fe, New<br />
Mexico<br />
Pruning, Planting &<br />
Care: Johnson's Guide<br />
to Gardening, Eric A.<br />
Johnson, Ironwood Press,<br />
Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Saline and Alkali Soils,<br />
Agriculture Handbook 60,<br />
U.S. Department of Agriculture,<br />
Washington D.C.<br />
Southwestern<br />
Landscaping with Native<br />
Plants, Judith Phillips,<br />
Museum of New Mexico<br />
Press, Santa Fe, New<br />
Mexico<br />
Sunset Western Garden<br />
Book, Sunset Publishing,<br />
Menlo Park, Calif.<br />
Taylor's Guide to<br />
Gardening in the<br />
Southwest, Houghton<br />
Mifflin Co., Boston, Mass.<br />
Turfgrass <strong>Water</strong><br />
Conservation, Victor A.<br />
Gibeault and Stephen T.<br />
Cockerham, University<br />
of California, Division of<br />
Agricultural and Natural<br />
Resources, Berkeley, Calif.<br />
<strong>Water</strong>wise Gardening,<br />
Sunset Publishing, Menlo<br />
Park, Calif.<br />
Videos and<br />
CD ROMs<br />
Desert Landscaping:<br />
Plants for a <strong>Water</strong>-Scarce<br />
Environment, CD-<br />
ROM, <strong>Water</strong> Resources<br />
Research Center,<br />
University of Arizona,<br />
Tucson, Ariz.<br />
Drought Survival Guide:<br />
video, Sunset Publishing,<br />
Menlo Park, Calif.<br />
<strong>Efficient</strong> <strong>Water</strong><br />
Management in the<br />
Landscape: video, San<br />
Luis Video Publishing,<br />
San Luis Obispo, Calif.<br />
Landscape Irrigation<br />
Maintenance and<br />
Troubleshooting:<br />
video, San Luis Video<br />
Publishing, San Luis<br />
Obispo, Calif.<br />
Micro Irrigation<br />
Management: video,<br />
Richard J. Soltys<br />
Productions, <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> Resource<br />
Conservation <strong>District</strong>,<br />
Indio, Calif.<br />
Micro Irrigation<br />
Uniformity and Efficiency:<br />
video, Richard J. Soltys<br />
Productions, <strong>Coachella</strong><br />
<strong>Valley</strong> Resource<br />
Conservation <strong>District</strong>,<br />
Indio, Calif.
Public<br />
Gardens<br />
Arboretums and botanic<br />
gardens offer valuable<br />
information and ideas<br />
on plant selection, landscaping<br />
and water conservation.<br />
Note that the<br />
information regarding<br />
these gardens is subject to<br />
change. Phone ahead for<br />
up-to-date information.<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
Gardens<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
<strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
Avenue 52 at Hwy 111<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong>, Calif. 92236<br />
(760) 398-2651<br />
Demonstration gardens<br />
are available for public<br />
viewing at headquarters<br />
(address above) and 75-<br />
525 Hovley Lane East in<br />
Palm Desert, CA 92211.<br />
Desert <strong>Water</strong> Agency<br />
1200 S. Gene Autry Trail<br />
Palm Springs, Calif.<br />
92264<br />
(760) 323-4971<br />
Serving Palm Springs<br />
proper, DWA houses<br />
water-efficient demonstration<br />
gardens at its<br />
headquarters and nearby<br />
water-recycling facility.<br />
College of the Desert<br />
Arboretum<br />
43-500 Monterey Avenue<br />
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260<br />
(760) 773-2561<br />
The landscaping on this<br />
160-acre campus is being<br />
redesigned over the next<br />
decade to suggest appropriate<br />
plants for the public<br />
and landscape industry.<br />
Desert RancherÕs<br />
Park is separately maintained<br />
as a test garden for<br />
new plant introductions.<br />
Student employees assist<br />
with propagation and culture<br />
of nursery stock.<br />
The Living Desert<br />
47-900 Portola Avenue<br />
Palm Desert, Calif. 92260<br />
(760) 346-5694<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> gardeners<br />
have easy access to<br />
The Living Desert where<br />
new horticultural and<br />
landscape plant displays<br />
are created regularly to<br />
offer a variety of ideas for<br />
home use. Local Sonoran<br />
Desert plants can be<br />
viewed with species<br />
from Australia, Africa,<br />
South America and Asia.<br />
Educational programs<br />
and tours supplement the<br />
exhibits. Located 1-1/2<br />
miles south of Highway<br />
111. Open 9 a.m. to 5<br />
p.m. daily Sept. 1 to June<br />
15. Entrance fee.<br />
www.livingdesert.org.<br />
Arizona Gardens<br />
Arizona-Sonora<br />
Desert Museum<br />
2021 North Kinney Road<br />
Tucson, Ariz. 85743<br />
(520) 883-2702 for<br />
recorded information<br />
(520) 883-1380<br />
Located 14 miles west<br />
of downtown Tucson.<br />
Head west from I-10<br />
on Speedway through<br />
Gates Pass, then north<br />
on Kinney Road to the<br />
Museum entrance.<br />
Over 31 developed acres<br />
on a total of 186 acres,<br />
including natural habitat<br />
zoo, walk-in aviary,<br />
demonstration gardens,<br />
earth science exhibits and<br />
more. Over 1,000 plant<br />
species and 300 live animal<br />
species.<br />
Open daily 8:30 a.m. to 5<br />
p.m. from mid-September<br />
to mid-March. Open 7:30<br />
a.m. to 5 p.m. from mid-<br />
March to mid-September.<br />
No tickets sold one hour<br />
before closing.<br />
Entrance fee; children<br />
under 6 free with adult.<br />
Desert Botanical Garden<br />
1201 North Galvin<br />
Parkway<br />
Phoenix, Ariz. 85008<br />
(480) 941-1225<br />
Located 8 miles east of<br />
the center of metropolitan<br />
Phoenix. Cross streets to<br />
the south are Van Buren<br />
and Galvin Parkway.<br />
Cross streets to the north<br />
are 64th Street and<br />
McDowell Road.<br />
145 acres of landscaped<br />
grounds include diverse<br />
collections of succulent<br />
plants. More than 50,000<br />
plants on display. Gift<br />
shop and restaurant on<br />
site.<br />
Open daily 8 a.m. to<br />
8 p.m. Closed July<br />
4th, Thanksgiving, and<br />
Christmas Day. Entrance<br />
fee. www.dbg.org.<br />
Boyce Thompson<br />
Southwestern Arboretum<br />
37615 Highway 60<br />
Superior, Ariz. 85273<br />
(520) 689-2811 for<br />
recorded information<br />
(520) 689-2723<br />
Located 60 miles east of<br />
Phoenix on Highway 60,<br />
3 miles west of Superior.<br />
Over 35 acres and two<br />
miles of nature trails that<br />
represent plants and<br />
gardens in the Sonoran<br />
Desert of Arizona.<br />
Open daily 8 to 5 p.m.<br />
Closed Christmas Day.<br />
Entrance fee.<br />
Tohono Chul Park<br />
7366 North Paseo<br />
del Norte<br />
Tucson, Ariz. 85704<br />
(520) 575-8468 for<br />
recorded information<br />
(520) 742-6455<br />
From I-10, take Ina Road<br />
exit east to North Paseo<br />
del Norte. Go north (left)<br />
a short distance and turn<br />
east (right) to the garden<br />
entrance.<br />
Over 500 plant species<br />
on 49 acres of demonstration<br />
gardens and nature<br />
trails, including several<br />
patios, ramadas and special<br />
gardens. Features<br />
three museum shops.<br />
Park open daily all year<br />
8 a.m. to sunset. (Gates<br />
close at 5 p.m.)<br />
Entrance fee.<br />
www.tohonochulpark.<br />
org.<br />
Tucson Botanical<br />
Gardens<br />
2150 North<br />
Alvernon Way<br />
Tucson, Ariz. 85712<br />
(520) 326-9686<br />
Located in central<br />
Tucson, on North<br />
Alvernon Way just south<br />
of Grant Road. Take I-10<br />
exit east on Grant, travel<br />
to Alvernon, then head<br />
south a short distance to<br />
garden entrance.<br />
More than 5 acres of gardens<br />
and displays, with<br />
over 4,000 plant species.<br />
Many specialty gardens,<br />
including Xeriscape.<br />
Open daily 8:30 a.m. to<br />
4:30 p.m. Closed July 4,<br />
Thanksgiving, Christmas<br />
Day, New Year's Day.<br />
Entrance fee required.<br />
Children 5 and under free.<br />
University of Arizona<br />
Campus Arboretum<br />
Herring Hall, University<br />
of Arizona<br />
Tucson, Ariz. 85721<br />
The University of Arizona<br />
Campus Arboretum is<br />
the oldest continually<br />
maintain public garden<br />
space in Arizona. As a<br />
result, over 400 tree species,<br />
as well as impressive<br />
cacti and succulents<br />
from desert lands around<br />
the world are on displayÑright<br />
in the center<br />
of Tucson. Campus is<br />
Public Gardens u 155
open every day to all.<br />
During the week, visitors<br />
can get brochures and<br />
information in Herring<br />
Hall, located south of<br />
Old Main. On-line tours<br />
and plant identification<br />
information is available<br />
at www.arboretum.arizona.<br />
edu.<br />
California Gardens<br />
Landscapes Southern<br />
California Style<br />
Western Municipal<br />
<strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
450 East Alessandro Blvd.<br />
Riverside, Calif. 92508<br />
(951) 789-5087<br />
A 1-acre, water-wise<br />
demonstration garden<br />
designed for self-guided<br />
tours. Shows how to save<br />
water, time and money in<br />
the landscape.<br />
Open daily (except holidays)<br />
10 a.m. to 4 p.m.<br />
No entrance fee.<br />
Los Angeles State &<br />
County Arboretum<br />
301 North Baldwin Ave.<br />
Arcadia, Calif. 91007<br />
Located 20 miles east of<br />
downtown Los Angeles.<br />
From the 210 Freeway,<br />
take the Baldwin Avenue<br />
exit south about 1 mile to<br />
entrance.<br />
Over 127 acres of landscaped<br />
grounds demonstration<br />
gardens, plant<br />
collections and historic<br />
buildings.<br />
Open daily 9 a.m.<br />
to 4:30 p.m. Closed<br />
Christmas Day.<br />
Entrance fee required.<br />
Rancho Santa Ana<br />
Botanic Garden<br />
1500 North College Ave.<br />
Claremont, Calif. 91711<br />
(714) 625-8767<br />
Located 30 miles east of<br />
Los Angeles. From I-10<br />
take Indian Hill Boulevard<br />
exit north to Foothill<br />
Boulevard. Travel east to<br />
College Avenue. Go north<br />
on North College Avenue<br />
to the garden entrance.<br />
86 acres of native<br />
California plants, including<br />
more than 2,800 species.<br />
Open daily 8 a.m. to 5<br />
p.m. Closed July 4th,<br />
Thanksgiving, Christmas<br />
and New Year's Day.<br />
No entrance fee.<br />
Santa Barbara<br />
Botanic Garden<br />
1212 Mission Canyon Rd.<br />
Santa Barbara, Calif.<br />
93105<br />
(805) 563-2521 for<br />
recorded information.<br />
(805) 682-4726<br />
Over 78 acres of display<br />
gardens and preserve of<br />
California native plants,<br />
grouped by geographical<br />
region. Although<br />
Santa Barbara is a coastal<br />
region, the limited availability<br />
of water makes it<br />
a fine resource to learn<br />
about water conservation.<br />
Open 9 a.m. to 6 p.m.<br />
March-Oct; 9 a.m. to 5<br />
p.m. Nov.-Feb. Entrance<br />
fee required.<br />
Theodore Payne<br />
Foundation for Wild<br />
Flowers and Native<br />
Plants<br />
10459 Tuxford Street,<br />
Sun <strong>Valley</strong>, Calif. 91352<br />
(818) 768-1802<br />
(818) 768-3533 Wildflower<br />
Hotline March to May.<br />
Northwest of Glendale<br />
off I-5. Take the Sunland<br />
Boulevard exit north to<br />
Tuxford Street. Turn right<br />
on Tuxford to entrance,<br />
which is marked with a<br />
small sign.<br />
The Theodore Payne<br />
Foundation is a learning<br />
and information center<br />
and nursery for 800 plant<br />
species, including rare<br />
and endangered plants.<br />
Open 8:30 a.m. to 4:30<br />
p.m. Tuesday to Saturday.<br />
Summer hours vary: Call<br />
ahead. No entrance fee.<br />
www.theodorepayne.org<br />
UCR Botanic Gardens<br />
University of California,<br />
Riverside Campus<br />
Riverside, Calif. 92521<br />
(951) 784-6962<br />
From I-215/State Highway<br />
60, exit Martin Luther<br />
King Blvd. and head west.<br />
Turn north on Canyon<br />
Crest Ave. to enter the<br />
University. At Campus<br />
Drive turn east and follow<br />
the signs to the gardens.<br />
Open daily 8 to 5<br />
p.m. Closed July 4th,<br />
Thanksgiving, Christmas<br />
and New Year's Day.<br />
No entrance fee but small<br />
donation requested.<br />
www.gardens.ucr.edu<br />
Nevada Gardens<br />
Desert Demonstration<br />
Garden<br />
3701 Alta Drive<br />
Las Vegas, Nev. 89153<br />
(702) 258-3205<br />
From I-15 take the West<br />
Charleston Boulevard off<br />
ramp. Proceed west on<br />
Charleston then right on<br />
<strong>Valley</strong> View, and right<br />
again on Alta Drive to<br />
entrance.<br />
A garden dedicated to<br />
water conservation.<br />
Founded by the Las Vegas<br />
Kiwanis Club, rededicated<br />
by Las Vegas <strong>Water</strong><br />
<strong>District</strong> and University<br />
of Nevada Cooperative<br />
Extension Service.<br />
Open Monday to Friday<br />
8 to 6 p.m. Open<br />
Saturdays 8 to 12 p.m.<br />
Closed New Year's Day,<br />
Washington's Birthday,<br />
Memorial Day, July 4th,<br />
Labor Day, Nevada Day<br />
(October 31st), Veteran's<br />
Day, Thanksgiving<br />
(Thursday and Friday),<br />
and Christmas Day.<br />
No entrance fee.<br />
Ethel M¨ Chocolates<br />
Botanical Cactus Garden<br />
2 Cactus Garden Drive<br />
Henderson, Nev. 89014<br />
(702) 458-8864<br />
Located 5 miles from I-15<br />
and Las Vegas Boulevard.<br />
Take Tropicana Boulevard<br />
east to Mountain Vista,<br />
go south to Sunset Way<br />
(adjacent to the Ethel M<br />
Chocolate Factory on<br />
Cactus Garden Drive in<br />
the Green <strong>Valley</strong> Business<br />
Park). Follow signs to garden<br />
entrance.<br />
A beautiful, 3-acre display<br />
of colorful desert<br />
shrubs, trees and exotic<br />
cacti and succulents.<br />
Open daily 8:30 a.m. to<br />
7:00 p.m.<br />
No entrance fee.<br />
University of Nevada Las<br />
Vegas Arboretum<br />
4505 Maryland Parkway<br />
Las Vegas, Nev. 89154<br />
(702) 739-3392<br />
Travel two miles east of<br />
I-15 and Las Vegas<br />
Boulevard on Tropicana<br />
Avenue to Swenson<br />
Avenue, turn north to<br />
Harmon Avenue, then<br />
turn east. Entrance to<br />
garden is off Harmon<br />
Avenue. Parking areas<br />
located north of Barrick<br />
Museum of Natural<br />
History at the end of<br />
Harmon.<br />
A unique, on-campus<br />
arboretum and Xeriscape<br />
demonstration garden.<br />
Museum hours are<br />
Monday to Friday 9 a.m.<br />
to 4:45 p.m.; Saturday 10<br />
a.m. to 4:45 p.m.<br />
Open dailyÑdoes not<br />
close. No entrance fee.<br />
156 u Public Gardens
Index<br />
Gardening<br />
A<br />
Acid, Acidic (soil), 152<br />
Alkaline (soil), 9, 152<br />
Alluvial soil, 9, 152<br />
Alternate (leaves), 152<br />
Angiosperm, 152<br />
Annual, 152<br />
Anther, 152<br />
Apex, 152<br />
Aphids, 19, 20<br />
Aquatic, 152<br />
Architectural (plants), 152<br />
B<br />
Backfill, 152<br />
Bare-root plants, 14, 21, 152<br />
Beneficial insects, 20, 152<br />
Biennial, 152<br />
Blow sand, 7, 152<br />
Bolt to seed, 152<br />
Botanic gardens, public,<br />
155-156<br />
Bract, 152<br />
Bubblers, 32<br />
Bud, 152<br />
Buying plants, 14<br />
C<br />
Calendar, gardening, 21-25<br />
Caliche, 8, 152<br />
California Irrigation<br />
Management System<br />
(CIMIS), 29, 152<br />
Chlorosis, 150, 152<br />
Climate control,<br />
landscaping, 10<br />
Climate, <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, 7<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong><br />
<strong>District</strong> (CVWD), 2, 155<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong><br />
month by month<br />
gardening, 21-25<br />
water use, 6<br />
Cold hardy, 153<br />
Cold temperatures, 7<br />
Compost, 9, 152<br />
Container gardening, 143-145<br />
plants, selecting, 145<br />
Controller (irrigation system),<br />
40, 152<br />
Crown, plant, 152<br />
Cultivar, 152<br />
Cuttings, 152<br />
D<br />
Deadheading, 24, 152<br />
Deciduous, 10, 152<br />
Desert climates, 7<br />
Diseases, controls and<br />
prevention, 20-21<br />
Division, 152<br />
Dormant, Dormancy, 152<br />
Drainage (soil), 152<br />
Drip emitters, assembly, 36<br />
Drip emitters, output, 38<br />
Drip irrigation, 27, 30, 36<br />
defined, 152<br />
emitters, 31<br />
Drip line, 16, 29, 37, 152<br />
Drought tolerant, 152<br />
E<br />
Emitter, 152<br />
Espalier, 152<br />
Establishing, plants, 152<br />
Evapotranspiration (ET), 10,<br />
29, 152<br />
Evergreen, 10, 152<br />
Exposure, 13<br />
F<br />
Fall planting, 24<br />
Family, 152<br />
Feeder roots, 37, 152<br />
Fertilizing, 18<br />
by plant type, 18, 22<br />
Floret, 152<br />
Flower, 152<br />
Foliage, 153<br />
Fountains, 142<br />
Freezing temperatures, 13,<br />
149<br />
Fruit gardening, 147-148<br />
G<br />
Genus, 153<br />
Ground covers, as climate<br />
control, 11<br />
irrigation, 37, 39<br />
spacing for coverage, 15<br />
Growing season, 153<br />
Gummosis, on citrus, 20, 150<br />
H<br />
Habit (growth), 153<br />
Harden off, 153<br />
Hardpan, 8, 153<br />
Hardy, cold hardy, 153<br />
Heading, 153<br />
Herbaceous, 153<br />
High temperatures, affect<br />
on plants, 7<br />
High-water use plants, 5<br />
Hybrid, 153<br />
Hydrozoning plants, 14, 153<br />
I<br />
Insect pests, controls, 19,<br />
22, 150<br />
Irrigation, 27-41<br />
chart, for landscape<br />
plants, 32<br />
chart, for lawns, 34<br />
pruning and, 17<br />
Irrigation system<br />
components, 30<br />
fittings, 31<br />
sprinkler heads, 33<br />
diagnosing problems, 41<br />
installation tips, 37<br />
installing yourself, 35-39<br />
lawns, 34, 39<br />
layout, 31<br />
maintaining, 39, 40<br />
retrofitting, 39<br />
shrubs, 32, 39<br />
L<br />
Ladybugs, 19, 20<br />
Landscape water use,<br />
household, 6<br />
Landscaping<br />
dry creek bed, 25, 149, 150<br />
near pools, 140-142<br />
planning, 137-138<br />
rocks, boulders, 149, 150<br />
small space design, 138<br />
updating old, 139, 140<br />
wildlife habitat, 150-151<br />
Lawn care, 142-143<br />
fertilizing, 18, 25<br />
Lawn, edging, 38<br />
Lawn, in landscape design,<br />
38, 139, 142-143<br />
Lawn irrigation chart, 34<br />
irrigation system,<br />
installing, 40<br />
testing coverage, 40<br />
Lawn, overseeding, 143<br />
Leaching (soil), 9, 153<br />
Leader, 153<br />
Loam (soil), 153<br />
M<br />
Mail-order plants, 14<br />
Microclimate, 13, 153<br />
Microirrigation system, 36-39<br />
Mites, 19<br />
Mulch, 8, 9, 18, 19, 148, 153<br />
N<br />
Native plants, 6, 153<br />
Naturalize, 153<br />
Nursery shopping, 14-15<br />
Nutrients, plants, 18<br />
O<br />
Organic matter, as soil<br />
additive, 8, 153<br />
Overseeding (lawn), 153<br />
Overwatering, 17<br />
P<br />
Patios, landscaping, 140-142<br />
Perennials, 24, 153<br />
Pests and diseases, 19-21<br />
citrus pests, 150<br />
Petiole, 153<br />
pH, pH scale, 9, 153<br />
Planting step by step, 16<br />
Planting, timing of, 24<br />
Plants and spacing, 15<br />
Plants, day-to-day water<br />
needs, 27-28<br />
Plants, modifying climate, 10<br />
water efficient, 12<br />
Pools, landscaping near,<br />
140-142<br />
Pop-up sprayhead, 33<br />
Pruning basics, 15<br />
timing of, 15-18<br />
R<br />
Rhizome, 153<br />
Runner, 153<br />
Runoff, 153<br />
S<br />
Salton Sea, 11<br />
Sand dunes, 11<br />
Sand storms, 11<br />
Sandy soils, 8<br />
Selecting plants, 14-15<br />
Self-Seed, self-sow, 153<br />
Shade, benefits of, 13<br />
Shrubs, irrigation, 32<br />
Slope irrigation, 38<br />
Soil pH, 9<br />
Soil probe, 153<br />
Soils, <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>, 7, 8<br />
Solarization, to kill weeds, 21<br />
Species, 153<br />
Spider mites, 19<br />
Sprinkler types, 33<br />
Stolon, 153<br />
Succession planting, 145<br />
Sucker, 153<br />
Sun exposure and plants, 10<br />
Systemic controls, 19<br />
T<br />
Tender, cold tender, 7, 153<br />
Thrips, 19, 22<br />
Topiary, 153<br />
Topping trees, 17<br />
Transitional garden, 153<br />
Trees for windbreaks, 12<br />
Trees, irrigation of, 32<br />
U<br />
Umbel, 153<br />
Underwatering, 17, 28<br />
V<br />
Valves, irrigation, 35<br />
Variegated, 153<br />
Variety, 153<br />
Vegetable gardens, 39,<br />
145-147<br />
W<br />
<strong>Water</strong>ing, 27-41<br />
basins, 16<br />
basics, 28<br />
irrigation systems, 30-41<br />
plant needs, 12, 27<br />
soil type, 27-28<br />
technology, 29<br />
timing of, 32, 34<br />
Weeds, control, 21<br />
Wildflowers, planting, 25, 129<br />
Windbreaks, 153<br />
chart, trees for, 12<br />
Winds, 7, 11-12<br />
Windthrow, 153<br />
Wildflowers, growing, 129<br />
Wildlife, attracting, 150-151<br />
X<br />
Xeriscape, 153<br />
Index u 157
Index<br />
Plants<br />
A<br />
Abutilon palmeri, 69<br />
Acacia species, 45-47<br />
A. aneura, 10, 12, 45<br />
A. berlandieri, 45<br />
A. craspedocarpa, 45<br />
A. farnesiana, 46<br />
A. redolens ÔProstrataÕ,<br />
45<br />
A. rigidula, 46<br />
A. salicina, 46<br />
A. saligna, 46<br />
A. smallii, 46<br />
A. stenophylla, 47<br />
A. willardiana, 47<br />
Achillea tomentosa, 112<br />
Afgan pine, 12, 60<br />
African sumac, 12, 65<br />
Agapanthus orientalis, 121<br />
Agave americana, 107<br />
A. americana<br />
ÔMarginataÕ,<br />
107<br />
A. americana<br />
ÔMediopictaÕ,<br />
107<br />
A. colorata, 108<br />
A. parryi, 108<br />
A. victoria-reginae, 108<br />
A. vilmoriniana, 107<br />
A. weberi, 109<br />
Albizia julibrissin, 47<br />
Aleppo pine, 60<br />
Aloe arborescens, 109<br />
A. dawei, 109<br />
A. ferox, 109<br />
A. variegata, 110<br />
A. vera, 110<br />
Alyogyne huegelli, 69<br />
Ambrosia deltoidea, 69<br />
Ammi majus, 130<br />
AngelÕs hair, 121<br />
Anisacanthus quadrifidus<br />
var. brevifolius, 70<br />
A. quadrifidus var.<br />
wrightii, 70<br />
A. thurberi, 70<br />
Annual ryegrass, 24, 143<br />
Antigonon leptopus, 101<br />
Antirrhinum majus, 130<br />
Apache plume, 77<br />
Aquilegia hybrids, 121<br />
Arecastrum romanzoffianum,<br />
47<br />
Argentine hedgehog, 116<br />
Arizona cypress, 12, 52<br />
Arizona rosewood, 93<br />
Artemisia schmidtiana, 121<br />
Asclepias linearis, 110<br />
A. subulata, 110<br />
Ash, 55<br />
Asparagus densiflorus, 121<br />
Atriplex canescens, 70<br />
Australian willow, 55<br />
Autumn sage, 89<br />
B<br />
Baby blue eyes, 134<br />
BabyÕs breath, 124<br />
Baccharis X ÔCentennialÕ,<br />
95<br />
B. hybrid ÔStarnÕ<br />
Thompson, 95<br />
BachelorÕs button, 130<br />
Baileya multiradiata, 121<br />
Baja fairy duster, 71<br />
Baja passion vine, 104<br />
Baja ruellia, 88<br />
Banana yucca, 116<br />
Barrel cactus, 112<br />
Bat-faced cuphea, 74<br />
Bauhinia blakeana, 48, 49<br />
B. lunarioides, 48<br />
B. purpurea, 48<br />
B. variegata, 48<br />
Bear grass, 113<br />
Bergenia crassifolia, 121<br />
Berlandiera lyrata, 122<br />
Bermudagrass, 18, 142-143<br />
BishopÕs flower, 130<br />
Bird of paradise, 71<br />
Black brush acacia, 46<br />
Black dalea, 75<br />
Black-eyed Susan, 126<br />
Blackfoot daisy, 124<br />
Bladder bush, 73<br />
Blanket flower, 123<br />
Blue fescue, 119<br />
Blue flax, 133<br />
Blue hibiscus, 69<br />
Blue leaf wattle, 46<br />
Blue palo verde, 58<br />
Blue queen sage, 126<br />
Blue thimble flower, 132<br />
Blue yucca, 117<br />
Bottlebrush, 50<br />
Bottle tree, 12, 49<br />
Bougainvillea species, 15, 101<br />
Brachychiton populneus,<br />
12, 49<br />
Brahea armata, 48, 49<br />
B. edulis, 49<br />
Brittlebush, 4, 76<br />
Buddleia marrubifolia, 70<br />
Bulbine frutescens, 111<br />
Bull grass, 119<br />
Bush dalea, 75<br />
Butia capitata, 49<br />
Butterfly iris, 123<br />
Buxus microphylla var.<br />
japonica, 70<br />
C<br />
Caesalpinia cacalaco, 50<br />
C. gilliesii, 71<br />
C. mexicana, 71<br />
C. pulcherrima, 71<br />
Cajeput tree, 57<br />
Calendula officinalis, 130<br />
California bluebell, 134<br />
California fan palm, 67<br />
California fuchsia, 127<br />
California live oak, 64<br />
California pepper, 66<br />
Calliandra californica, 71<br />
C. eriophylla, 72<br />
C. haematocephala, 72<br />
Callistemon citrinus, 60<br />
C. viminalis ÔLittle JohnÕ,<br />
72<br />
Calylophus hartweggii, 95<br />
Campsis radicans, 101<br />
Cape honeysuckle, 92<br />
Carissa grandiflora, 72, 73<br />
Carnation, 131<br />
Carnegiea gigantea, 111<br />
Carob, 12, 50<br />
Carolina cherry, 63<br />
Carolina jessamine, 102<br />
Cascalote, 50<br />
Cassia species, see Senna,<br />
90-91<br />
Catchfly, 127<br />
Catclaw, 103<br />
Catharanthus roseus, 130<br />
Celtis pallida, 73<br />
Centaurea cineraria, 122<br />
C. cyanus, 130<br />
Century plant, 107<br />
Cerastium tomentosum, 122<br />
Ceratonia siliqua, 12, 50<br />
Cercidium species, see<br />
Parkinsonia, 58-59<br />
Cereus hildmannianus, 111<br />
Chamaerops humilis, 51<br />
Chaparral sage, 89<br />
Chaste tree, 67<br />
Cheiranthus cheiri, 130<br />
Cherry laurel, 63<br />
Chihuahuan primrose, 98<br />
Chihuahuan rain sage, 83<br />
Chilean mesquite, 63<br />
Chilopsis linearis, 51<br />
Chinese flame tree, 56<br />
Chinese houses, 131<br />
Chinese pistachio, 60<br />
Chinese wisteria, 105<br />
Catalpa bignonioides, 51<br />
Chitalpa X tashkentensis, 51<br />
Chocolate flower, 122<br />
Chorisia speciosa, 52, 53<br />
Chrysactinia mexicana, 95<br />
Chrysanthemum frutescens,<br />
122<br />
C. X morifolium, 130<br />
C. X superbum, 122<br />
Chuperosa, 81<br />
Citrus, 7, 22, 147-150<br />
Clarkia amoena, 131<br />
Cleome isomeris, 73<br />
Cliva minuta, 122<br />
Clytostoma callistegioides, 102<br />
Cocculus laurifolius, 74<br />
Collinsia heterophylla, 131<br />
Columbine, 121<br />
Compass barrel, 112<br />
Convolvulus cneorum, 96, 97<br />
C. mauritanicus, 96, 97<br />
Coolibah tree, 12, 54, 55<br />
Coral bells, 124<br />
Coral vine, 101<br />
Cordia boissieri, 74<br />
C. parvifolia, 74<br />
Coreopsis lanceolata, 122<br />
C. verticillata, 122<br />
Cork oak, 65<br />
Cosmos bipinnatus, 131<br />
Crape myrtle, 56<br />
Creosote, 82<br />
Crown of thorns, 123<br />
Cuphea hyssopifolia, 74<br />
C. llavea, 74<br />
Cupressus arizonica, 12, 52<br />
C. glabra, 12, 52<br />
C. sempervirens, 52<br />
Cycas revoluta, 75<br />
D<br />
Dalbergia sisso, 52, 53<br />
Dalea capitata, 96<br />
D. frutescens, 75<br />
D. greggii, 96<br />
D. pulchra, 75<br />
D. spinosa, 53<br />
DameÕs rocket, 124<br />
Damianita, 95<br />
Dasylirion acrotriche, 111<br />
D. longissimum, 111<br />
D. wheeleri, 111<br />
Date palm, 59<br />
Daylily, 124<br />
Deer grass, 119<br />
Delphinium species, 131<br />
Desert hackberry, 73<br />
Desert honeysuckle, 69<br />
Desert ironwood, 58<br />
Desert lavender, 80<br />
Desert marigold, 52<br />
Desert milkweed, 110<br />
Desert palo verde, 58, 59<br />
Desert senna, 90<br />
Desert smoke tree, 53<br />
Desert spoon, 111<br />
Desert willow, 51<br />
Desert zinnia, 127<br />
Dianthus species, 131<br />
Dicliptera resupinata, 122<br />
Dietes bicolor, 123<br />
D. vegeta, 123<br />
Dodonaea viscosa, 75<br />
Dusty miller, 122<br />
Dwarf cup flower, 125<br />
E<br />
Echinacea purpurea, 123<br />
158 u Index
Echinocactus grusonii, 112<br />
Echinocereus engelmannii, 112<br />
ElephantÕs food, 115<br />
Encelia farinosa, 4, 76<br />
EngelmannÕs hedgehog,<br />
112,<br />
113<br />
EngelmannÕs prickly pear,<br />
114<br />
Eremophila maculata v.<br />
brevifolia, 76<br />
Ericameria laricifolia, 76<br />
Eriobotrya japonica, 53<br />
Eriogonum fasciculatum v.<br />
poliofolium, 77<br />
Eschscholzia californica, 131<br />
Eucalyptus cinerea, 54<br />
E. microtheca, 12, 54, 55<br />
E. spathulata, 12, 54, 55<br />
Euonymus japonicus, 77<br />
Euphorbia milii, 123<br />
E. rigida, 112<br />
E. tirucalli, 123<br />
Euryops pectinalis<br />
ÔViridisÕ,<br />
123<br />
Evergreen elm, 67<br />
Evergreen pistachio, 61<br />
Evolvulus ruttalianus, 123<br />
Eysenhardtia orthocarpa, 55<br />
F<br />
Fairy duster, 72<br />
Fairy primrose, 135<br />
Fallugia paradoxa, 77<br />
Farewell-to-spring, 131<br />
Feathery senna, 90<br />
Feijoa sellowiana, 78<br />
Ferocactus cylindraceus, 112<br />
F. wislizenii, 112<br />
Festuca glauca, 119<br />
Fig, 147<br />
Firecracker penstemon, 125<br />
Fishhook barrel cactus, 112<br />
Fivespot, 134<br />
Flanders field poppy, 134<br />
Flax, blue, 133<br />
Flax, scarlet, 133<br />
Forget-me-not, 134<br />
Fouquieria splendens, 113<br />
Fourwing saltbush, 70<br />
Fraxinus greggii, 78<br />
F. uhdei, 55<br />
G<br />
Gaillardia X grandiflora, 123<br />
G. pulchella, 131<br />
Gardenia jasminoides, 78<br />
Gaura lindheimeri, 124<br />
Gazania, 97, 124<br />
Geijera parviflora, 55<br />
Gelsemium sempervirens, 102<br />
Geranium, 132<br />
Germander, 99<br />
Gilia capitata, 132<br />
Globe mallow, 126<br />
Golden barrel, 112<br />
Golden dalea, 96<br />
Golden dyssodia, 112<br />
Golden eye, 93<br />
Goldfields, 132<br />
Gopher plant, 112<br />
Grapes, 105<br />
Grapefruit, 148<br />
Grass lawns, 142-143<br />
Green gold, 123<br />
Grewia occidentalis, 78<br />
Ground morning glory, 96<br />
Guajillo, 45<br />
Guadalupe palm, 49<br />
Guaiacum coulteri, 78<br />
Guayacan, 78<br />
Gypsophila paniculata, 124<br />
H<br />
Hamelia patens, 79<br />
HallÕs honeysuckle, 103<br />
Hardenbergia violacea, 102<br />
Hawaiian blue eyes, 123<br />
Heavenly bamboo, 85<br />
Helianthus maximilianii, 132<br />
Hemerocallis species, 124<br />
Hesperaloe funifera, 113<br />
H. parviflora, 113, 145<br />
Hesperis matronalis, 124<br />
Heuchera sanguinea, 124<br />
Hibiscus, 79<br />
Holly oak, 65<br />
Honey mesquite, 63<br />
Hong Kong orchid tree, 48, 49<br />
Hop bush, 75<br />
Hymenoxis acaulis, 124<br />
Hyptis emoryi, 80<br />
I<br />
Imperata cylindrica, 119<br />
Indian blanket, 131<br />
Indian fig, 114<br />
Indian hawthorne, 88<br />
Indian mallow, 69<br />
Indian rosewood, 52, 53<br />
Indigo bush, 75<br />
Italian cypress, 52<br />
Italian stone pine, 12, 60<br />
J<br />
Jacaranda mimosifolia, 56<br />
Japanese blood grass, 119<br />
Japanese boxwood, 70<br />
Japanese plum, 53<br />
Japanese privet, 84<br />
Japanese wisteria, 105<br />
Jasminum mesnyi, 102<br />
Jerusalem sage, 86<br />
Jojoba, 91<br />
Juniperus chinensis, 80, 81<br />
Justicia brandegeana, 81<br />
J. californica, 81<br />
J. spicigera, 81<br />
K<br />
Kaffir lily, 122<br />
Kapok, 52<br />
Kidneywood, 55<br />
Koelreuteria bipinnata, 56<br />
L<br />
Lady BanksÕ rose, 104<br />
Lagerstroemia indica, 56<br />
Lanceleaf coreopsis, 122<br />
Lantana montevidensis, 97<br />
L. camara, 81<br />
Larkspur, 131<br />
Larrea tridentata, 82<br />
Lasthenia glabrata, 132<br />
Lathyrus odoratus, 132<br />
Laurustinus, 93<br />
Lavandula stoechas, 124<br />
Lavender star-flower, 78<br />
Lavender trumpet vine, 102<br />
Lawns, 39, 142-143<br />
Layia platyglossa, 132<br />
Leatherleaf acacia, 45<br />
Lemon bottlebush, 50<br />
Leucophyllum candidum, 83<br />
L. frutescens, 83<br />
L. laevigatum, 83<br />
L. langmaniae, 83<br />
L. pruinosum, 84<br />
L. zygophyllum, 84<br />
Licorice marigold, 126<br />
Ligustrum japonicum, 84<br />
Lilac vine, 102<br />
Lily-of-the-Nile, 121<br />
Linaria maroccana, 132<br />
Lindheimer muhly, 119<br />
Linum grandiflorum<br />
ÔRubrumÕ, 133<br />
Linum perenne subsp.<br />
lewisii, 133<br />
ÔLittle JohnÕ bottlebrush,<br />
72<br />
Little leaf ash, 78<br />
Little leaf cordia, 74<br />
Little leaf elm, 67<br />
Little leaf palo verde, 58<br />
Lobelia erinus, 132<br />
Lobularia maritima, 132<br />
Lonicera japonica<br />
ÔHallianaÕ,<br />
103<br />
Loquat, 53<br />
Lupinus densiflorus var.<br />
aureus, 132<br />
L. texensis, 132<br />
Lysiloma watsonii var.<br />
thornberi, 57<br />
M<br />
Macfadyena unguis-cati, 102<br />
Majestic beauty ash, 55<br />
Mangle dulce, 84<br />
Marigold, 135<br />
Mascagnia macroptera, 102<br />
Matthiola incana, 132<br />
Maytenus phyllanthoides, 84<br />
Mealy cup sage, 126<br />
Mediterranean fan palm, 51<br />
Melaleuca quinquenervia, 57<br />
Merremia aurea, 103<br />
Mescal ceniza, 108<br />
Mesquite, 62, 63<br />
Mexican bird of paradise, 71<br />
Mexican blue palm, 49<br />
Mexican bush sage, 90<br />
Mexican ebony, 61<br />
Mexican evening primrose, 98<br />
Mexican fan palm, 67<br />
Mexican fencepost, 114<br />
Mexican hat, 126<br />
Mexican heather, 74<br />
Mexican honeysuckle, 81<br />
Mexican sunflower, 135<br />
Mexican threadgrass, 119<br />
Mock orange, 87<br />
Mondale pine, 60<br />
Moss verbena, 127<br />
Mountain marigold, 91<br />
Muhlenbergia capillaris, 119<br />
M. emersleyi, 119<br />
M. lindheimeri, 119<br />
M. rigens, 119<br />
Mulga acacia, 12, 45<br />
MurpheyÕs agave, 108<br />
Murraya paniculata, 85<br />
Myoporum parvifolium, 97<br />
Myosotis sylvatica, 134<br />
Myrtle, 85<br />
Myrtus communis, 85<br />
N<br />
Nandina domestica, 85<br />
Narrow-leafed gimlet, 12, 54<br />
Nassella tennuissima, 119<br />
Natal plum, 72<br />
Nectarine, 147<br />
Nemophylla maculata, 134<br />
N. menziesii, 134<br />
Nerium oleander, 11, 85, 86<br />
Nierembergia hippomanica,<br />
125<br />
Nolina microcarpa, 113<br />
O<br />
Oak, 64, 65<br />
Ocotillo, 113<br />
Octopus agave, 108<br />
Oenothera berlandieri, 98<br />
O. caespitosa, 125<br />
O. stubbei, 98<br />
Olea europaea, 57<br />
Oleander, 11, 85, 86<br />
Olive, 22, 57<br />
Olneya tesota, 58<br />
Opuntia basilaris, 114<br />
O. engelmannii, 114<br />
O. ficus-indica, 114<br />
Orange jessamine, 85<br />
Organ pipe cactus, 115<br />
Orthocarpus purpurascens,<br />
134<br />
Our lordÕs candle, 135<br />
OwlÕs clover, 134<br />
Index u 159
P<br />
Pachycereus marginatus,<br />
114<br />
Pachypodium lamerei, 115<br />
Pale leaf yucca, 117<br />
Palm, California fan, 67<br />
Palm, Mexican fan, 67<br />
Palo blanco, 47<br />
Palo brea, 59<br />
Palo verde, blue, 58<br />
littleleaf, 58<br />
Sonoran, 59<br />
Pansy, 135<br />
Papaver rhoeas, 134<br />
Paperflower, 125<br />
Parkinsonia ÔDesert<br />
MuseumÕ, 58, 59<br />
P. floridum, 58<br />
P. microphylla, 58<br />
P. praecox, 59<br />
ParryÕs agave, 108<br />
ParryÕs penstemon, 125<br />
Parthenocissus tricuspidata,<br />
104<br />
Partridge breast aloe, 110<br />
Passiflora alato-caerulea, 104<br />
P. foetida longipedunculata,<br />
104<br />
Passion flower vine, 104<br />
Peach, 147<br />
Peacock flower, 123<br />
Pedilanthus macrocarpus, 115<br />
Pencil bush, 123<br />
Pendulous yucca, 117<br />
Pennisetum setaceum, 119<br />
Penstemon baccharifolius, 125<br />
P. eatonii, 125<br />
P. parryi, 125<br />
P. pseudospectabilis, 125<br />
P. superbus, 125<br />
Perennial ryegrass, 143<br />
Periwinkle, 99, 130<br />
Perovskia atriplicifolia, 86<br />
Peruvian verbena, 127<br />
Petunia, 134<br />
Phacelia campanularia, 134<br />
Phlomis fruticosa, 86<br />
Phlox drummondii, 134<br />
Phoenix dactylifera, 59<br />
Photinia X fraseri, 86<br />
Pindo palm, 49<br />
Pineapple guava, 78<br />
Pine, 60<br />
Pink muhley, 119<br />
Pink powder puff, 72<br />
Pink trumpet vine, 104<br />
Pinus eldarica, 60<br />
P. halepensis, 60<br />
P. pinea, 60<br />
Pistacia chinensis, 60<br />
P. lenticus, 61<br />
Pithecellobium flexicaule, 61<br />
P. mexicanum, 61<br />
Pittosporum phillyraeoides, 62<br />
P. tobira, 87<br />
Plumbago scandens, 87<br />
Podranea ricasoliana, 115<br />
Pomegranate, 64, 147<br />
Portulacaria afra, 116<br />
Potentilla tabernaemontani,<br />
116<br />
Prairie zinnia, 127<br />
Prickly pear cactus, 113, 114<br />
Primrose jasmine, 102<br />
Primula malacoides, 135<br />
Prosopis chilensis, 62<br />
P. glandulosa glandulosa,<br />
62<br />
P. velutina, 63<br />
Prostrate acacia, 45<br />
Prostrate desert broom, 95<br />
Prostrate rosemary, 98<br />
Prunus caroliniana, 63, 87<br />
P. cerasifera, 63<br />
Psilostrophe cooperi, 125<br />
P. tagetina, 125<br />
Psorothamnus spinosus, 53<br />
Punica granatum, 64, 147<br />
Purple coneflower, 123<br />
Purple orchid tree, 48<br />
Purple plum, 63<br />
Pyracantha crenatoserrata<br />
fortuneana, 87<br />
P. X ÔSanta Cruz ProstrataÕ,<br />
87<br />
Q<br />
Queen palm, 47<br />
Queen Victoria agave, 108<br />
QueenÕs wreath, 101<br />
Quercus agrifolia, 64<br />
Q. ilex, 65<br />
Q. suber, 65<br />
Q. virginiana, 65<br />
R<br />
Rain lily, 127<br />
Raphiolepis indica, 88<br />
Ratibida columnaris, 126<br />
Red bird of paradise, 71<br />
Red eremophila, 76<br />
Red fountaingrass, 119<br />
Red yucca, 113<br />
Rhapis excelsa, 65<br />
Rhus lancea, 12, 65<br />
Rock penstemon, 125<br />
Rosa banksiae, 104<br />
Rosmarinus officinalis, 98<br />
Rough-bark cypress, 12, 52<br />
Rudbeckia hirta, 126<br />
Ruellia brittoniana, 88, 89<br />
R. brittoniana ÕKatieÕ,<br />
98<br />
R. peninsularis, 88<br />
Russian sage, 86<br />
Ryegrass, 24, 143<br />
S<br />
Sago palm, 75<br />
Saguaro cactus, 111<br />
Salvia clevelandii, 88, 89<br />
S. farinacea, 126<br />
S. greggii, 89<br />
S. leucantha, 90<br />
S. X superba, 126<br />
Sandpaper verbena, 127<br />
Scarlet bush, 179<br />
Scarlet flax, 133<br />
Schinus molle, 66<br />
Senna artemisioides X<br />
artemisioides, 90<br />
S. artemisioides subsp.<br />
filifolia, 90<br />
S. artemisioides subsp.<br />
petiolaris, 91<br />
S. wislizenii, 91<br />
Shasta daisy, 122<br />
Shoestring acacia, 47<br />
Shrimp plant, 81<br />
Shrubby senna, 91<br />
Siberian tea, 121<br />
Silene armeria, 134<br />
Silk floss tree, 52<br />
Silver bush morning glory, 96<br />
Silver dollar tree, 54<br />
Silver senna, 91<br />
Simmondsia chinensis, 91<br />
Slender lady palm, 65<br />
Slipperflower, 115<br />
Snapdragon, 130<br />
Snow-in-summer, 122<br />
Soaptree yucca, 116<br />
Society garlic, 130<br />
Sophora secundiflora, 66<br />
Southern live oak, 65<br />
Spanish bayonet, 116<br />
St. JohnÕs bread, 50<br />
Star jasmine, 104<br />
Stenocereus thurberi, 115<br />
Stock, 133<br />
Swamp mallee, 54, 55<br />
Sweet acacia, 46<br />
Sweet alyssum, 133<br />
Sweet pea, 132<br />
T<br />
Tagetes erecta, 135<br />
T. lemmonii, 91<br />
T. lucida, 126<br />
Tecoma stans, 92<br />
T. ÔOrange JubileeÕ, 92<br />
Tecomaria capensis, 92<br />
Teucrium chamaedrys, 99<br />
Texas bluebonnet, 133<br />
Texas ebony, 61<br />
Texas honey mesquite, 62<br />
Texas mountain laurel, 66<br />
Texas olive, 74<br />
Texas paperflower, 125<br />
Texas ranger, 82-83<br />
Thevetia peruviana, 92<br />
Tidy tips, 132<br />
ÔTifÕ hybrid bermudagrass,<br />
142<br />
Tithonia rotundifolia, 135<br />
Toadflax, 132<br />
Trachelospermum<br />
jasminoides, 104<br />
Trachycarpus fortunei, 66<br />
Trailing indigo bush, 96<br />
Triangle leaf bursage, 69<br />
Trichocereus huascha, 116<br />
Trumpet vine, 101<br />
Tulbaghia violacea, 126<br />
Turpentine bush, 76<br />
Twin-flowered agave, 108<br />
U<br />
Ulmus parvifolia, 67<br />
V<br />
Vauquelinia californica, 93<br />
Velvet mesquite, 63<br />
Verbena hybrids, 135<br />
V. peruviana, 127<br />
V. pulchella, 127<br />
V. rigida, 127<br />
Viburnum tinus, 93<br />
Vigna caracalla, 105<br />
Viguiera deltoidea, 93<br />
Vinca (annual), 130<br />
Vinca major, 99<br />
Viola cornuta, 135<br />
V. X wittrockiana, 135<br />
Violet silverleaf, 83<br />
Vitex agnus-castus, 67<br />
Vitis californica, 105<br />
V. vinifera, 105<br />
W<br />
Wallflower, 130<br />
Washingtonia filifera, 67<br />
W. robusta, 67<br />
Wedelia trilobata, 99<br />
Weeping bottlebrush, 50<br />
Weeping acacia, 46<br />
Weeping fig, 83<br />
White desert plumbago, 87<br />
White evening primrose, 125<br />
White orchid tree, 48<br />
Wildflowers, 128-135<br />
Willow acacia, 46<br />
Willow pittosporum, 62<br />
Wisteria floribunda, 105<br />
W. sinensis, 105<br />
Woolly butterfly bush, 70<br />
Woolly yarrow, 121<br />
X<br />
Xylosma congestum, 93<br />
Y<br />
Yaupon, 80<br />
Yellow dot, 99<br />
Yellow orchid vine, 103<br />
Yellow trumpet flower, 92<br />
Yucca aloifolia, 116<br />
Y. baccata, 116<br />
Y. elata, 116<br />
Y. gloriosa, 117<br />
Y. elata, 116<br />
Y. pallida, 117<br />
Y. rigida, 117<br />
Y. whipplei, 117<br />
Z<br />
ÔZagrebÕ coreopsis, 122<br />
Zauschneria californica, 135<br />
Zinna elegans, 135<br />
Z. grandiflora, 127<br />
Zephranthes candida, 127<br />
160 u Index
Desert Gardens can be <strong>Lush</strong> and <strong>Efficient</strong><br />
The image of a desert garden consisting only of cacti, boulders and gravel is a common one, but<br />
this perception is no longer accurate. Many new native and adapted plants are now available that<br />
are lush in appearance yet are efficient users of water. They are proven to provide as much or more<br />
interest over long periods than their water-thirsty counterparts.<br />
This book tells how to select and grow more than 300 plants—trees, shrubs, ground covers, vines, cacti,<br />
ornamental grasses and flowering annuals and perennials—adapted to California’s <strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong>. It also<br />
explains how to design a water-efficient landscape for any size lot. An extensive chapter tells how to install<br />
an irrigation system that is right for your home, and shows how to water plants easily and efficiently. The<br />
result becomes a landscape that you’ll enjoy, while conserving the desert’s most precious resource—water.<br />
Published to promote wise water use<br />
as a public service by<br />
<strong>Coachella</strong> <strong>Valley</strong> <strong>Water</strong> <strong>District</strong><br />
<strong>Coachella</strong>, California<br />
EAN