Congo Killies - PageSuite
Congo Killies - PageSuite
Congo Killies - PageSuite
You also want an ePaper? Increase the reach of your titles
YUMPU automatically turns print PDFs into web optimized ePapers that Google loves.
FRESHWATER AQUARIUMS & TROPICAL DISCOVERY<br />
<strong>Congo</strong><br />
<strong>Killies</strong><br />
❙ Pac-Man Catfish<br />
❙ LED Freshwater Lighting<br />
❙ A New Dwarf Cichlid<br />
MAY/JUNE 2013
EDITOR & PUBLISHER | James M. Lawrence<br />
INTERNATIONAL PUBLISHER | Matthias Schmidt<br />
EDITOR-IN-CHIEF | Hans-Georg Evers<br />
CHIEF DESIGNER | Nick Nadolny<br />
SENIOR ADVISORY BOARD |<br />
Dr. Gerald Allen, Christopher Brightwell, Svein A.<br />
Fosså, Raymond Lucas, Dr. Paul Loiselle, Dr. John<br />
E. Randall, Julian Sprung, Jeffrey A. Turner<br />
SENIOR EDITORS |<br />
Matthew Pedersen, Mary E. Sweeney<br />
CONTRIBUTORS |<br />
Juan Miguel Artigas Azas, Dick Au, Heiko Bleher,<br />
Eric Bodrock, Jeffrey Christian, Morrell Devlin,<br />
Ian Fuller, Jay Hemdal, Neil Hepworth, Maike<br />
Wilstermann-Hildebrand, Ted Judy, Ad Konings,<br />
Marco Tulio C. Lacerda, Michael Lo, Neale Monks,<br />
Rachel O’Leary, Martin Thaler Morte, Christian &<br />
Marie-Paulette Piednoir, Karen Randall, Mark<br />
Sabaj Perez, Ph.D., Ben Tan<br />
TRANSLATOR | Stephan M. Tanner, Ph.D.<br />
ART DIRECTOR | Linda Provost<br />
DESIGNER | Anne Linton Elston<br />
ASSOCIATE EDITORS |<br />
Louise Watson, John Sweeney, Eamonn Sweeney<br />
EDITORIAL & BUSINESS OFFICES |<br />
Reef to Rainforest Media, LLC<br />
140 Webster Road | PO Box 490<br />
Shelburne, VT 05482<br />
Tel: 802.985.9977 | Fax: 802.497.0768<br />
BUSINESS & MARKETING DIRECTOR |<br />
Judith Billard | 802.985.9977 Ext. 3<br />
ADVERTISING SALES |<br />
James Lawrence | 802.985.9977 Ext. 7<br />
james.lawrence@reef2rainforest.com<br />
ACCOUNTS | Linda Bursell<br />
NEWSSTAND | Howard White & Associates<br />
PRINTING | Dartmouth Printing | Hanover, NH<br />
CUSTOMER SERVICE |<br />
service@amazonascustomerservice.com<br />
570.567.0424<br />
SUBSCRIPTIONS | www.amazonasmagazine.com<br />
WEB CONTENT | www.reef2rainforest.com<br />
AMAZONAS, Freshwater Aquariums & Tropical Discovery<br />
is published bimonthly in December, February, April,<br />
June, August, and October by Reef to Rainforest Media,<br />
LLC, 140 Webster Road, PO Box 490, Shelburne, VT<br />
05482. Application to mail at periodicals prices pending at<br />
Shelburne, VT and additional mailing offices. Subscription<br />
rates: U.S. $29 for one year. Canada, $41 for one year.<br />
Outside U.S. and Canada, $49 for one year.<br />
POSTMASTER: Send address changes to: AMAZONAS,<br />
PO Box 361, Williamsport, PA 17703-0361<br />
ISSN 2166-3106 (Print) | ISSN 2166-3122 (Digital)<br />
AMAZONAS is a licensed edition of<br />
AMAZONAS Germany, Natur und Tier Verlag GmbH,<br />
Muenster, Germany.<br />
All rights reserved. Reproduction of any material from this<br />
issue in whole or in part is strictly prohibited.<br />
COVER:<br />
Various Aphyosemion species.<br />
Images by Olaf Deters.<br />
4 EDITORIAL by Hans-Georg Evers<br />
6 AQUATIC NOTEBOOK<br />
FEATURE ARTICLES<br />
22 APHYOSEMION IN THE CONGO BASIN<br />
by Jouke van der Zee and Rainer Sonnenberg<br />
34 THE KEEPING OF APHYOSEMION IN THE AQUARIUM<br />
by Olaf Deters<br />
40 BREEDING APHYOSEMION<br />
by Olaf Deters and Michael Schlüter<br />
48 AQUATIC TRAVEL:<br />
In search of the Blue-eyed Plec<br />
by Heiko Bleher<br />
54 HUSBANDRY & BREEDING:<br />
A native jewel: Etheostoma caeruleum,<br />
the Rainbow Darter<br />
by Ken Zeedyk<br />
62 HUSBANDRY AND BREEDING:<br />
Triops: Tadpole shrimp in the aquarium<br />
by Timm Adam<br />
68 AQUATIC PLANTS:<br />
Shedding new light on a planted aquarium<br />
by Thomas Hörning<br />
74 HUSBANDRY AND BREEDING:<br />
Breeding success with the Pac-Man catfish,<br />
Lophiosilurus alexandri<br />
by Ivan Chang<br />
80 HUSBANDRY AND BREEDING:<br />
Using a trick to rear Apistogramma playayacu<br />
by Hans Georg-Evers<br />
84 HUSBANDRY AND BREEDING:<br />
Ancistrus claro: a dwarf among the L-number catfishes<br />
by Jörn Sabisch<br />
DEPARTMENTS<br />
86 AQUARIUM CALENDAR:<br />
Upcoming events<br />
by Mary E. Sweeney<br />
88 RETAIL SOURCES<br />
90 SPECIES SNAPSHOTS<br />
94 SOCIETY CONNECTIONS<br />
97 ADVERTISER INDEX<br />
98 UNDERWATER EYE<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
3
EDITORIAL<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Dear Reader,<br />
Fishes from Africa play almost no role in the modern<br />
aquarium trade today, unless they come from the<br />
famous Rift Lakes. This, of course, was not always the<br />
case. During my youth, the cichlids and the small<br />
but very vibrant killifishes of Central and West Africa<br />
were quite popular.<br />
Killifishes were kept then—as they<br />
are now—mostly by specialists, but they<br />
were more commonly mentioned in the<br />
literature and more often seen at shows<br />
and auctions. Today, killifish enthusiasts<br />
appear to operate much more under the<br />
radar. However, our knowledge about<br />
these colorful dwarfs is vast, and scientists<br />
and amateur enthusiasts have contributed<br />
much to it in recent years.<br />
One of our editorial board members,<br />
Olaf Deters, is very active in this sphere of<br />
interest, so it was just a matter of time before<br />
we chose killifishes as a cover theme.<br />
We have intentionally focused on the genus<br />
Aphyosemion because the name is well<br />
recognized and there are many new and<br />
exciting insights to tell you about. An African cover<br />
story is quite unusual for us, but I hope you enjoy this<br />
peek beyond the usual horizon.<br />
When water plant enthusiasts gather, the question<br />
of lighting will almost always come up sooner or<br />
later. We have wanted to report on this topic for some<br />
time, and in this issue we include hands-on articles<br />
on the ever more popular LEDs. In the marine hobby,<br />
this technology is already widespread and fast becoming<br />
an accepted technology.<br />
For a catfish buff like me, the breeding report on<br />
the Pac-man Catfish, Lophiosilurus alexandri, is truly<br />
a highlight. Similarly exciting is the story about the<br />
Blue-Eyed Pleco, which is certain to start a lively discussion—and<br />
not just among catfish followers.<br />
When I look over this new issue, with its many<br />
interesting stories that should excite a diversity of true<br />
addicts, I cannot stop grinning! It is amazing what<br />
both hobbyists and scientists have to report. Quite<br />
the opposite of predictable, fishkeeping is far better<br />
than reality television for most of us. I would much<br />
rather spend my time in the fish room than turn into<br />
a dazed sofa spud.<br />
Enjoy the issue, and happy fishkeeping!<br />
4
Only POLY-FILTER®and KOLD STER-IL®filtration provides superior water<br />
quality for optimal fish & invertebrate health and long-term growth.<br />
POLY-FILTER® — the only chemical filtration medium that actually<br />
changes color. Each different color shows contaminates, pollutants<br />
being adsorbed & absorbed. Fresh, brackish, marine and reef inhabitants<br />
are fully protected from: low pH fluctuations, VOCs, heavy metals,<br />
organic wastes, phosphates, pesticides and other toxins. POLY-FILTER®is<br />
fully stabilized — it can’t sorb trace elements, calcium, magnesium,<br />
strontium, barium, carbonates, bicarbonates or hydroxides.<br />
Use KOLD STER-IL®to purify your tap water. Zero waste! Exceeds US EPA & US<br />
FDA standards for potable water. Perfect for aquatic pets, herps, dogs,<br />
cats, plants and makes fantastic drinking water. Go green and save!<br />
117 Neverslnk St. (Lorane)<br />
Reading, PA 19606-3732<br />
Phone 610-404-1400<br />
Fax 610-404-1487<br />
www.poly-bio-marine.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
5
AQUATIC<br />
NOTEBOOK<br />
article and images by Ralf Britz<br />
Three new fish species from Southern India<br />
The fish fauna of the so-called Western Ghats, a mountain range that extends parallel to the<br />
west coast of India over a distance of 1,600 km (1,000 mi.) from Maharashtra in the north to<br />
Kerala in the south, is considered one of the best-studied ichthyofaunas in this country. Sykes<br />
(1839) and Jerdon (1849) published the first monographs of the freshwater fish fauna, which<br />
were followed by those of Day and Hora and their co-workers. A recent compilation by the<br />
International Union for Conservation of Nature (IUCN) listed 290 different species of fishes<br />
(Dahanukar et al. 2011). The best-known species of the Western Ghats is the Red-Line Torpedo<br />
Right: Type<br />
locality of Pangio<br />
ammophila<br />
Below:<br />
Pangio ammophila<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
6
Pristolepis<br />
rubripinnis<br />
Barb, Puntius denisonii. Other popular species found<br />
there include Carinotetraodon travancoricus and Pristolepis<br />
marginata. While on a short collection trip with Indian<br />
colleagues in different river systems in Karnataka and<br />
Kerala, we were able to collect several new fish species,<br />
which we have described in the past few months. A big<br />
surprise for us was the discovery of a second Indian Pristolepis<br />
species, P. rubripinnis, which differs significantly<br />
from the known species P. marginata. We were able to<br />
capture a number of specimens of this fish, which has<br />
beautiful orange fin fringes, at night in the Pamba River.<br />
We hope that this species will soon be imported, because<br />
it is a very pretty fish.<br />
In some recently published Indian publications, a<br />
second Pristolepis species, P. fasciata, was mentioned;<br />
however, this species is native to Indonesia. Whether the<br />
fish called P. fasciata in the Indian literature is potentially<br />
identical to P. rubripinnis could not be clarified due to the<br />
lack of reference specimens.<br />
A second unexpected freshwater fish was caught in<br />
a tributary of the Barapole River in southern Karnataka.<br />
This exciting new Badidae was co-discovered by the Indian<br />
aquarium fish lover Nikhil Sood from Bangalore and<br />
his German friend Benjamin Harink. Harink reported<br />
about it on the forum of the IGL (International Society<br />
for Labyrinth Fishes). Sood took us to the location and<br />
we were able to capture a number of these chameleonfishes<br />
in a few hours. The river was up to 10 meters (33<br />
feet) wide and 2 meters (6.5 feet) deep. Large stands of<br />
aquatic plants such as Blyxa, Lagenandra, and Cryptocoryne<br />
were present. The new species was hidden, mainly<br />
in leaf litter that had accumulated in the shallower areas,<br />
and could be shaken out of the roots along the riverbank.<br />
During our research to describe the species, we<br />
discovered that Francis Day, one of the fathers of<br />
Indian ichthyology, had already collected this fish, but<br />
he believed it belonged to the taxon Dario dario. There<br />
were also some specimens collected by Day, said to be<br />
from “Wynaad,” in the collection of the Natural History<br />
Museum in London, which, together with the newly<br />
collected animals, served as the basis for the description.<br />
For completeness, it should be mentioned that in June<br />
2010, a group of Indian aquarists caught the same (or a<br />
very similar-looking) species in the Sita River, part of the<br />
Kaveri River system. Rahul Kumar pointed that out to me<br />
on the Indianaquariumhobbyist.com forum.<br />
Interestingly, the new Dario shows some features<br />
usually found in Badis species, such as the striking caudal<br />
peduncle spot, which has led to the species name Urops.<br />
This trait, however, is an ancestral trait and of no use in<br />
determining the relationship. The total absence of the<br />
lateral line, various lateral line pores in the head region,<br />
and the lack of gill rakers on different gill arches clearly<br />
place the species D. urops in the genus Dario, since these<br />
are all derived features.<br />
Compared to other Badidae species, Dario urops is<br />
not exactly the most colorful of species, but it will surely<br />
fascinate fans of chameleonfishes. It remains to be documented<br />
how Dario urops propagates—like Badis species,<br />
via parental care by the male in a nest, or as egg scatterers<br />
in dense vegetation without parental care, like other<br />
Dario species. Aquarists still can contribute meaningfully<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
7
Type locality of Dario urops<br />
Male of Dario urops<br />
TM<br />
in this respect. Nikhil Sood maintained these animals successfully for several<br />
months in a cool aquarium with faintly moving neutral and soft water, a<br />
sandy bottom, and a lot of leaf litter.<br />
The third new species from the Western Ghats that we found in our nets<br />
was a new Pangio. We named it Pangio ammophila because of its lifestyle. The<br />
handful of specimens of this small, scaleless Pangio that we captured were<br />
buried in the sand of the Kumaradhara River. Because of its plain appearance<br />
it is unlikely that it will make it into the aquarium fish trade.<br />
Another very unusual Pangio species has been described from the Western<br />
Ghats. Pangio goaensis is known not only from Goa but also from several rivers<br />
in Kerala, in the south. This Pangio is spectacularly striped; apparently, no<br />
pictures of live specimens were taken.<br />
Our small-scale collecting trip to southern India has shown that this supposedly<br />
well-known part of India still holds many surprises, and with a little<br />
luck, a few of them might make it into the hobby.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Britz, R., A. Ali, and R. Raghavan. 2012. Pangio ammophila, a new species of eel-loach from<br />
Karnataka, southern India (Teleostei: Cypriniformes: Cobitidae). Ichthyol Explor Freshwaters 23:<br />
45–50.<br />
Britz, R., A. Ali, and S. Philip. 2012. Dario urops, a new species of badid fish from the Western Ghats,<br />
southern India (Teleostei: Percomorpha: Badidae). Zootaxa 3348: 63–68.<br />
Britz, R., K. Kumar, and F. Baby. 2012. Pristolepis rubripinnis, a new species of fish from southern India<br />
(Teleostei: Percomorpha: Pristolepididae). Zootaxa 3345: 59–68.<br />
8
Advanced aquarists choose from a proven leader in<br />
product innovation, performance and satisfaction.<br />
MODULAR<br />
FILTRATION<br />
SYSTEMS<br />
Add Mechanical,<br />
Chemical, Heater<br />
Module and UV<br />
Sterilizer as your<br />
needs dictate.<br />
BULKHEAD FITTINGS<br />
Slip or Threaded in all sizes.<br />
INTELLI-FEED<br />
Aquarium Fish Feeder<br />
Can digitally feed up to 12 times daily<br />
if needed and keeps fish food dry.<br />
AIRLINE<br />
BULKHEAD KIT<br />
Hides tubing for any<br />
Airstone or toy.<br />
FLUIDIZED<br />
BED FILTER<br />
Completes the ultimate<br />
biological filtration system.<br />
BIO-MATE®<br />
FILTRATION MEDIA<br />
Available in Solid, or refillable<br />
with Carbon, Ceramic or Foam.<br />
AQUASTEP<br />
PRO® UV<br />
Step up to<br />
new Lifegard<br />
technology to<br />
kill disease<br />
causing<br />
micro-organisims.<br />
LED DIGITAL THERMOMETER<br />
Submerge to display water temp.<br />
Use dry for air temp.<br />
QUIET ONE® PUMPS<br />
A size and style for every need... quiet... reliable<br />
and energy efficient. 53 gph up to 4000 gph.<br />
Visit our web site at www.lifegardaquatics.com<br />
for those hard to find items... ADAPTERS, BUSHINGS, CLAMPS,<br />
ELBOWS, NIPPLES, SILICONE, TUBING and VALVES.<br />
Email: info@lifegardaquatics.com<br />
562-404-4129 Fax: 562-404-4159<br />
Lifegard® is a registered trademark of Lifegard Aquatics, Inc.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
9
AQUATIC<br />
NOTEBOOK<br />
Betta mahachaiensis from<br />
Samut Sakhon; most populations<br />
have a rounded caudal fin, although<br />
the population in the first description<br />
has a pointed tail.<br />
by Jens Kühne & Chanon Kowasupat<br />
Betta mahachaiensis:<br />
a brackish water Betta<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Ever since its recent discovery, many aquarists<br />
and scientists have known this brackish water<br />
fighting fish by the name Betta sp. “Mahachai.”<br />
The name refers to the type locality southwest of<br />
Bangkok. Although other names were considered,<br />
to avoid confusion Betta mahachaiensis was<br />
chosen.<br />
Betta mahachaiensis Kowasupat, Panijpan,<br />
Ruenwongsa & Sriwattanarothai 2012 differs<br />
from other fighting fishes of the Betta splendens<br />
group in having two parallel, vertical, bright<br />
green to bluish green stripes on the gill plates.<br />
The eversible gill membrane is red-brown, brown,<br />
or black and has no red spots. The body base<br />
color is dark brown or black. The iridescent body<br />
scales give the fish its characteristic appearance.<br />
The shiny blue-green fin membranes contrast<br />
with the brown-black dorsal, tail, and anal<br />
fin rays. The caudal fin lacks markings. The<br />
brown-black pelvic fins have a blue-and-white<br />
first dorsal ray and bluish-white tips.<br />
The species is distinguished from other similar<br />
types of the Betta splendens group mainly by<br />
DNA studies. For further information, refer to<br />
Sriwattanarothai et al. 2010 and Kowasupat et<br />
al. 2012. According to DNA analysis, Betta splendens<br />
is the closest relative of B. mahachaiensis.<br />
Brackish water swamps<br />
Betta mahachaiensis lives in brackish water habitats<br />
west of Bangkok and in Sakhon Nakhon<br />
province, in pH values of 6.87 to 7.8 and a salinity<br />
of 1.1 to 10.6‰. When Panitvong introduced<br />
the species as Betta sp. “Mahachai” in 2002 on<br />
his Internet portal, siamensis.org, experts were<br />
surprised to learn that a Betta species could permanently<br />
settle in a brackish water habitat. B.<br />
mahachaiensis was initially known only from the<br />
government district Mahachai in Samut Sakhon<br />
and differed from local B. splendens forms. But<br />
Panitvong failed to mention that populations<br />
of B. imbellis from southern Thailand are also<br />
adapted to live in brackish water habitats.<br />
The main habitat of B. mahachaiensis is the<br />
Mae Nam Klong, which flows as part of the Mae<br />
Nam Chin system in Samut Sakhon into the Bay<br />
of Bangkok. The Mae Nam Chin forms a marshy<br />
delta in which the salt-tolerant Nypa palm<br />
grows. These swamps are exposed to the tides<br />
that affect the great Mae Nam Chin, as well as<br />
J. KÜHNE<br />
10
The Wait Is Over<br />
Once upon a time the way to start an<br />
aquarium involved introducing a few<br />
hardy fishes and waiting one to two<br />
months until the tank “cycled.”<br />
Nowadays the startup of aquariums<br />
is so much simpler, and faster too!<br />
BioPronto TM FW contains cultured<br />
naturally occuring microbes that<br />
rapidly start the biological filtration<br />
process. Use it to start the<br />
nitrification cycle in new aquariums<br />
or to enhance nitrification and<br />
denitrification in heavily stocked<br />
aquariums. What are you waiting for<br />
It’s time to make a fresh start.<br />
Two Little Fishies Inc. 1007 Park Centre Blvd.<br />
Miami Gardens, FL 33169 USA www.twolittlefishies.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
11
AMAZONAS<br />
Habitat of Betta<br />
the Chao Praya River all the<br />
mahachaiensis. The way to Nonthaburi, about<br />
animals live between the<br />
80 km (50 mi.) inland. The<br />
Nypa palm trees and<br />
Nypa palm is found along all<br />
build their foam nests in<br />
the leaf axils of plants. of these rivers and forms the<br />
habitat of B. mahachaiensis.<br />
The habitats of B. mahachaiensis are periodically<br />
flooded by salt and fresh water. They very rarely dry up<br />
completely. During rainy periods, the swamps are diluted<br />
so much that the residual amount of salt is barely perceptible<br />
at 3 grams per liter (12 g/gal.). Peaking at 13 g/L<br />
(~50 g/gal.), this concentration is tolerated by the fish<br />
only for a short time. The optimum salt concentration<br />
seems to be between 3 and 7 g/L (12–28 g/gal.).<br />
One of us (JK) found a high density of B. mahachaiensis<br />
individuals in freshwater streams near their<br />
inflows into the marsh. In Samut Sakhon there are<br />
freshwater habitats of B. splendens immediately adjacent<br />
to the brackish water habitats of B. mahachaiensis, but no<br />
mixing or hybridization of the species was observed.<br />
Betta mahachaiensis will struggle to survive in the<br />
future, because the known distribution areas are being<br />
swallowed by the giant metropolis of Bangkok. However,<br />
there are other, yet unconfirmed habitats<br />
where this species might be found.<br />
Besides the Samut Sakhon province<br />
already mentioned, these probably include<br />
Samut Songkhram, Samut Prakan,<br />
and the southern parts of Nonthaburi<br />
west of Bangkok, where there are<br />
proven populations. The sporadic finds<br />
in Samut Prakan along the Mae Nam<br />
Chao Phraya south of Bangkok require<br />
confirmation.<br />
Aquarium care<br />
How does B. mahachaiensis differ from<br />
other members of the B. splendens group<br />
in terms of care Do you need to set<br />
up a brackish water aquarium for this<br />
Pair spawning<br />
under the<br />
bubble nest<br />
fish No, not necessarily. One of us (JK) has<br />
already been keeping B. mahachaiensis for about<br />
five years. Some strains are kept permanently in<br />
fresh water without any noticeable impairment.<br />
Any treatment for disease symptoms should<br />
include salt. For prophylaxis, a small amount of<br />
added salt is recommended.<br />
I cannot confirm that the proliferation of<br />
B. mahachaiensis depends on the salt concentration.<br />
The species builds foam nests and spawns<br />
readily in brackish water as well as in fresh<br />
water. These fish seem to react to intermittent<br />
warm and cold periods such as occur in Bangkok;<br />
they go through extremely fertile periods<br />
and then stretches of time when they show no<br />
signs of reproduction. We recommend trying to<br />
breed young adult animals, three to seven months old.<br />
The females in particular have to be sexually mature,<br />
which they indicate with a white genital papilla. You can<br />
set up the aquarium as an underwater jungle with dense<br />
plants, roots, rocks, and clay caves. Many water lilies,<br />
Cabomba, Vallisneria, rushes, Hygrophila, horn ferns, and<br />
mosses tolerate brackish water well.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
Kowasupat, C., B. Panijpan, P. Ruenwongsa, and N. Sriwattanarothai.<br />
2012. Betta mahachaiensis, a new species of bubble-nesting fighting fish<br />
(Teleostei: Osphromenidae) from Samut Sakhon province, Thailand. Zootaxa<br />
3522: 49–62.<br />
Kühne, J. 2010. Salzwasserkampffische. Aquaristik Fachmagazin 216:<br />
40–46.<br />
Panitvong, N. 2002. Old article resurrection: Betta sp. Mahachai by Nonn,<br />
April 2002. www.siamensis.org/article/6602.<br />
Sriwattanarothai, N. et al. 2010. Molecular and morphological evidence<br />
supports the species status of the Mahachai fighter Betta sp. Mahachai<br />
and reveals new species of Betta from Thailand. J Fish Biol 77 (2): 414–24.<br />
Sriwattanarothai, N. et al. 2012. Saltwater fighting fish or “Is it too late for<br />
species mahachai” Labyrinth, Newsletter of the Anabantoid Association of<br />
Great Britain 168: 2–11.<br />
J. KÜHNE<br />
12
AQUATIC<br />
NOTEBOOK<br />
A Mexican Crayfish<br />
for Nano Aquariums<br />
Cambarellus patzcuarensis<br />
“Orange”: “berried” female<br />
carrying eggs under abdomen<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Text and images by Rachel O’Leary The Dwarf<br />
Orange Crayfish, Cambarellus patzcuarensis “Orange,” is<br />
a petite and colorful crustacean that is not as well known<br />
to freshwater aquarists as it should be, but makes a sassy<br />
and active addition to a nano aquarium. Some crayfishes<br />
and “mini lobsters” can be destructive; this species has<br />
proved safe with plants, fishes, and other invertebrates.<br />
In its wild form, it originates in Lake Patzcuaro, about<br />
38 miles southwest of Morelia in Central Mexico. It is<br />
thought that the first orange offspring originated from a<br />
pair of hobbyists from the Netherlands in the late 1990s.<br />
They started becoming available in the United States several<br />
years later, and are casually referred to as CPO.<br />
Cambarellus is a diminutive species, reaching around<br />
1.25 inches (3 cm) at the largest and averaging about 1<br />
inch (2.5 cm). Its native water is relatively cool, averaging<br />
about 72°F (22°C), and is moderately hard. These crayfish<br />
do not require a heater, but because of their size, any intake<br />
on a power filter should be covered with a prefilter sponge.<br />
CPO have an average lifespan of two years, and<br />
warmer temperatures accelerate their growth and breeding.<br />
Adult crayfish molt about twice a year, and young<br />
crayfish generally molt every three to four weeks until<br />
they hit maturity at about 0.7 inch (1.75 cm). They are<br />
fairly easy to breed. The male pins the female to the substrate<br />
and then places his sperm packets near her seminal<br />
receptacle. In a matter of days to weeks, she will molt<br />
and then produce from 20 to 50 eggs, which she attaches<br />
to her pleopod and covers with a protective mucus. The<br />
female carries the babies, even after hatching, until they<br />
are ready to venture out on their own. The adults do not<br />
prey on healthy young, so the survival rate is high.<br />
Feeding is no problem—the crayfish readily take most<br />
prepared or gelatinized foods. Specialized feeding is not<br />
required for the young, although like all invertebrates<br />
they are sensitive to water quality, so care should be taken<br />
not to overfeed. They do well with a varied diet with<br />
both meaty (live or frozen worms and pellets designed<br />
for bottom feeders) and herbivorous foods (vegetables or<br />
algae-based foods), and appreciate having leaf litter for<br />
grazing. Enriched foods containing bio-pigments such as<br />
carotenoids will help maintain bright color.<br />
S. POSTIN<br />
14
Small size and relatively<br />
peaceful disposition make<br />
this an ideal nano-tank<br />
invertebrate.<br />
While peaceful to other inhabitants, these crayfish can threaten each other, especially<br />
after molting, so ample hiding places or cover should be provided utilizing<br />
plants, small pieces of stacked driftwood, or clay or PVC caves. A pair can easily<br />
live in a 5-gallon (20-L) tank or be part of a larger, peaceful community of small<br />
fishes and invertebrates.<br />
This crayfish, which resembles<br />
a miniature lobster, exhibits<br />
interesting behaviors and will<br />
reproduce in the aquarium.<br />
15
Does size matter to you <br />
We bet it does. Trying to clean algae off the glass in a planted aquarium with your typical algae magnet is like running a bull<br />
through a china shop. That’s why we make NanoMag ® the patent-pending, unbelievably strong, thin, and flexible magnet for cleaning<br />
windows up to 1/2” thick. The NanoMag flexes on curved surfaces including corners, wiping off algal films with ease, and it’s so much fun to<br />
use you just might have to take turns. We didn’t stop there either- we thought, heck, why not try something smaller So was born MagFox ® ,<br />
the ultra-tiny, flexible magnetically coupled scrubber for removing algae and biofilms from the inside of aquarium hoses.<br />
Have you got us in the palm of your hand yet<br />
www.twolittlefishies.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
16
AQUATIC<br />
NOTEBOOK<br />
Wild-type Enneacampus<br />
ansorgii collected by Ted Judy<br />
in Gabon.<br />
This new captive-bred red form is now<br />
reaching the aquarium trade.<br />
UPPER: TED JUDY; LOWER: MIKE TUCCINDARDI/SEGREST FARMS<br />
by Matt Pedersen<br />
Arriving soon: Tank-raised<br />
African Freshwater Pipefish<br />
The African Freshwater, or Dwarf Red Snout Pipefish, Enneacampus ansorgii,<br />
is exotic and rare enough that even expert aquarists assume it is more at<br />
home on a coral reef than in a clear freshwater stream 100 miles from the<br />
ocean. Now this sometimes brilliantly pigmented little species is being bred<br />
in captivity and is starting to enter the aquarium trade.<br />
Husbandry accounts suggest that wild specimens are certainly difficult<br />
to keep alive, generally requiring live foods such as brine shrimp, blackworms,<br />
Daphnia, cyclops, and even the fry of livebearers. Wolfgang Löll<br />
makes a compelling argument that live glassworms are the best food for<br />
pipefishes such as E. ansorgii because they survive for several days in the<br />
aquarium and will tolerate slightly brackish water.<br />
Aquarium literature, where this fish was formerly known as Sygnathus<br />
ansorgii (Boulanger, 1910), generally suggests that the inclusion of salt is<br />
helpful for this species, although it is clear that some populations of the<br />
species have no contact with anything remotely close to a marine environment.<br />
A general rule is to house them in a small species tank in slightly<br />
brackish water or a .5-percent sea salt solution. Their reported range<br />
includes the Ogooue River of Gabon, Cameroon, and Equatorial Guinea.<br />
(American aquarist and award-winning breeder Ted Judy reports collecting<br />
males brooding eggs in pure, freshwater river conditions in Gabon.) They<br />
produce relatively large offspring.<br />
In March of 2013, Segrest Farms in Gibsonton, Florida, announced the<br />
arrival and almost immediate sell-out (within 24 hours) of captive-bred E.<br />
ansorgii. These fish came in at a 3–4-inch (7.5–10-cm) size, which is close<br />
TMAMAZONAS<br />
17
AQUATIC<br />
NOTEBOOK<br />
to the maximum adult size of 5–6 inches (12–15 cm)<br />
and were not produced by Florida or Asian fish farms, as<br />
many aquarists suspected, but actually made their way to<br />
North America from the Czech Republic via a small-scale<br />
Manage Your Own<br />
Subscription<br />
It’s quick and user friendly.<br />
Go to www.AmazonasMagazine.com.<br />
Click on the SUBSCRIBE tab.<br />
specialist breeder.<br />
While this certainly isn’t the first time this species<br />
has been successfully bred in captivity, this commercial<br />
availability represents a potential shift in our perception<br />
of the species. Just as captive-bred<br />
marine seahorses are infinitely<br />
better suited to captive foods<br />
and life in an aquarium, these<br />
captive-bred E. ansorgii were feeding<br />
on frozen Cyclops (CYCLOP-<br />
EEZE®), and might be weaned to<br />
small, high-protein pellet foods or<br />
potentially even flake food. Truly,<br />
commercially viable captive-bred<br />
specimens may well redefine this<br />
species.<br />
Segrest’s Mike Tuccinardi suggests<br />
that “it’s unlikely they’ll be a<br />
regular stock item, but it wouldn’t<br />
be out of the question to see them<br />
in some of the more specialized<br />
local fish stores across the country<br />
over the next few months. We<br />
are sold out right now, but we’ll<br />
be bringing in more soon.” He<br />
adds, “As for care, treat them as<br />
you would their saltwater cousins—avoid<br />
boisterous or aggressive<br />
tankmates, give them lots of<br />
cover, and feed them frequently.”<br />
Here you can:<br />
● Change your address<br />
● Renew your subscription<br />
● Give a gift<br />
● Subscribe<br />
● Buy a back issue<br />
● Report a damaged or missing issue<br />
Other options:<br />
EMAIL us at:<br />
service@amazonascustomerservice.com<br />
CALL: 570-567-0424<br />
Or WRITE:<br />
AMAZONAS Magazine<br />
1000 Commerce Park Drive, Suite 300<br />
Williamsport, PA 17701<br />
ON THE INTERNET<br />
http://diszhal.info/english/livebearers/en_<br />
Syngnathus_pulchellus.php#ixzz2NbnQTyG5<br />
http://www.iucnredlist.org/details/<br />
full/167999/0<br />
http://www.aqualog.de/Aqualog/news/<br />
web90/Seite11-13e.pdf<br />
Correction<br />
The images accompanying<br />
the article, Dicrossis maculatus:<br />
Breeding the Checkerboard<br />
Cichlid by David<br />
Magid (AMAZONAS, Mar/<br />
Apr 2013, page 60), were<br />
taken by Noah Magid, not<br />
David Magid. AMAZONAS<br />
regrets the error.<br />
18
24/7<br />
VISIT OFTEN:<br />
• Web-Special Articles<br />
• Aquatic News of the World<br />
• Aquarium Events Calendar<br />
• Links to Subscribe, Manage<br />
Your Subscription, Give a<br />
Gift, Shop for Back Issues<br />
• Messages & Blogs from<br />
AMAZONAS Editors<br />
• Coming Issue Previews<br />
• New Product News<br />
• Links to Special Offers<br />
www.Reef2Rainforest.com<br />
Our new website is always open, with the latest news and<br />
content from AMAZONAS and our partner publications.<br />
HOME of AMAZONAS, CORAL, & MICROCOSM BOOKS<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
19
AQUATIC<br />
NOTEBOOK<br />
Male Black Ruby Barb,<br />
now known as Pethia<br />
nigrofasciata<br />
New names for old friends<br />
Hans-Jürgen Bäselt Nothing is as constant as change. This applies especially to the taxonomy of<br />
fishes, and earlier this year some familiar barb species from India and Sri Lanka were caught up in a sea<br />
of revisions. Pethiyagodha et al. revised the large “dumpster” genus Puntius and divided it into several<br />
newly established genera. Nine species of the former Puntius filamentosus group were placed in the<br />
genus Dawkinsia. The Melon Barb (formerly Puntius fasciatus, now Dravidia fasciata) was renamed and<br />
put together with four other species in the genus Dravidia. The third new genus, Pethia, was erected to<br />
include some very popular species, such Pethia conchonius, P. padamya, P. ticto, and many more. Pethia<br />
nigrofasciata, known to many as the Black Ruby Barb, belongs in the genus as well.<br />
The Melon Barb is now<br />
called Dravidia fasciata.<br />
The Filament Barb<br />
Dawkinsia filamentosa was<br />
reclassified as well.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
H.-G. EVERS<br />
20
The world is yours.<br />
<br />
The earth is composed of water—71.1% to be exact. But when it comes to<br />
tropical fish, we’ve really got it covered. Not only with exotic varieties from<br />
around the globe, but with the highest level of quality, selection and vitality.<br />
Ask your local fish supplier for the best, ask for Segrest.<br />
Say Segrest. See the best. QUALITY, SERVICE & DEPENDABILITY<br />
<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
21
COVER<br />
STORY<br />
Killifish gems in the genus<br />
Aphyosemion from the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
River basin, in the second-largest<br />
rainforest on earth.<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
in the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
by Jouke van der Zee & Rainer Sonnenberg African killifishes are some of the most coveted<br />
and beautiful of tropical fishes, but they are found in a place so vast, untamed, and fraught<br />
with violence that they are neither collected nor studied as frequently as many enthusiasts<br />
would like. Our interest in these fishes has focused on the genus Amphyosemion, which is very<br />
likely an assemblage of more or less related species groups.<br />
22
The <strong>Congo</strong>, 2,717 miles (4,374 km) long<br />
and up to 755 feet (230 m) deep, is the<br />
deepest and second-largest river in Africa,<br />
and in terms of drainage area and water<br />
flow the second-largest river in the world,<br />
after the Amazon. Its drainage encompasses<br />
not only the two <strong>Congo</strong> states (<strong>Congo</strong><br />
Republic and Democratic Republic of the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong>, or DRC) but also parts of Angola,<br />
Burundi, Cabinda, Cameroon, Rwanda,<br />
Zambia, Sudan, Tanzania, Uganda, and the<br />
Central African Republic.<br />
The <strong>Congo</strong> already existed when the<br />
dinosaurs ruled the earth, although at<br />
that time it still emptied into the Indian<br />
Ocean. The Rufiji in Tanzania is possibly<br />
the former lower course of the ancient<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> river. During the Pliocene (around<br />
1.8–5.3 million years ago) the East African<br />
highland plateau came into being and the<br />
flow of the ancient <strong>Congo</strong> in an easterly<br />
direction was blocked. Traces of former links to the<br />
east can still be detected today: depending on water<br />
level, the East African Lake Tanganyika still empties in<br />
the direction of the <strong>Congo</strong> via the Lukuga, and there is<br />
evidence that the Malagarasi, for example, used to be<br />
part of the <strong>Congo</strong> drainage.<br />
After the blocking of the eastern lower course, the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> rainforest could no longer drain away its water,<br />
and in time a vast lake developed in central Africa.<br />
It is thought that by one to two million years ago<br />
the mountains separating the lake from the Atlantic<br />
Ocean had been eroded to such an extent that a link<br />
between the inland sea and a westward-flowing river<br />
Above: The map shows<br />
the distribution of<br />
the Aphyosemion s. l.<br />
species in the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin.<br />
Right: Dr. Emmanuel<br />
Vreven, ichthyologist<br />
at Belgium’s Royal<br />
Museum for Central<br />
Africa (RMCA), with<br />
his assistant. You need<br />
more than a net to<br />
collect fishes in the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong>.<br />
MAP: J. V. D. ZEE; MIDDLE: RMCA; BOTTOM: E. VREVEN (RMCA)<br />
Left:<br />
Location for<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
christyi in<br />
the Okapi<br />
Wildlife<br />
Reserve.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
23
Lake Mai Ndombe. The surrounding<br />
areas are very swampy and difficult to<br />
access.<br />
“Aphyosemion” labarrei from Nenga Kibuka, Ngufu River (AVD 2011).<br />
“Aphyosemion” labarrei from Kingembe, Inkisi River (AVD 2011).<br />
Hard-to-Reach Fishes<br />
In terms of fish collections, the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin is one of the least explored<br />
regions on Earth. This is mainly due to<br />
the immense size of the basin, the lack<br />
of infrastructure, and the very unstable<br />
political situation. Systematic study of<br />
the fish fauna of the <strong>Congo</strong> began in<br />
the colonial period; the works of Belgian<br />
zoologist George Albert Boulenger<br />
are particularly worthy of note. After<br />
1960, the end of the Belgian colonial<br />
period, many fish collections were<br />
made by Belgian biologists and missionaries.<br />
Nevertheless, large parts of the<br />
basin have never been scientifically<br />
studied. Aquarists, especially killifish<br />
specialists, rarely travel the eastern and<br />
southern <strong>Congo</strong> Basin. In the 1980s,<br />
Heiko Bleher explored Lake Fwa, in the<br />
drainage of the Kasai and the middle<br />
<strong>Congo</strong>. In 1985, Dutchman Jan Pap<br />
and two Germans, Winfried Stenglein<br />
and Wolfgang Grell, visited the<br />
northeastern part of the Democratic<br />
Republic of the <strong>Congo</strong> (DRC). This is<br />
probably one of the best documented<br />
collecting trips. The western part of the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> Basin has been collected only<br />
in 1978 by Huber and in 1991 by a<br />
Dutch-Belgian team consisting of De<br />
Waegeneer, Vlym, and Van der Berg. By<br />
contrast, other African countries, such<br />
as Cameroon and Gabon, have been<br />
visited many times by aquarists in the<br />
past four decades.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Raddaella batesii from Equatorial<br />
Guinea (EQG 06/2).<br />
came into being. From then on the lake emptied westward<br />
from Malebo Pool to the Atlantic Ocean via its current<br />
lower course. But perhaps there were already earlier<br />
outlets in the direction of the Atlantic further to the<br />
north, for example via the Ogooue. There are still many<br />
unanswered questions to be researched here.<br />
The remains of the ancient lake can still be found in<br />
the central <strong>Congo</strong> Basin, for example, Lake Tumba and<br />
Killifishes of the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin<br />
Because the genus Aphyosemion as<br />
usually understood is an assemblage of<br />
various species groups, in this article<br />
we will classify only the species of the<br />
Aphyosemion elegans species group as<br />
Aphyosemion or Aphyosemion s. s. (sensu strictu, in the<br />
strict or narrow sense).<br />
This group includes the type species of the genus,<br />
Aphyosemion castaneum. Other species groups already<br />
have an established name (usually described as a subgenus).<br />
In the event that there is still no (sub-) genus<br />
name described, the genus name will be given in quotes.<br />
This usage may be known to cichlid enthusiasts from the<br />
TOP & MIDDLE: K. STEHLE: BOTTOM: W. EIGELSHOFEN<br />
24
former catch-all genus “Cichlasoma.” When we mean the<br />
entire erstwhile genus Aphyosemion, we will use the term<br />
Aphyosemion s. l. (sensu lato, in the broad sense).<br />
At present, 22 Aphyosemion s. l., 2 Fenerbahce, 7<br />
Epiplatys, 5 Nothobranchius (family Nothobranchiidae),<br />
and 21 lampeyes (family Poeciliidae) are described from<br />
the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin. Even so, the killifish fauna of this<br />
region is only fragmentarily known, but that is changing<br />
quickly. Several institutions, including the Royal Museum<br />
for Central Africa (RMCA) in Belgium, the Zoologische<br />
Staatssammlung München (ZSM) in Munich, and the<br />
American Museum of Natural History (AMNH) in New<br />
York, have collaborated on expeditions with local biologists<br />
and students. In particular, the central <strong>Congo</strong> Basin,<br />
the lower <strong>Congo</strong>, and the northeastern DRC have been<br />
explored by various ichthyologists in recent years.<br />
All these expeditions have discovered a number of<br />
noteworthy and hitherto undescribed fishes, including<br />
several killifish species. For example, a southern tributary<br />
of the Kasai was recently investigated by Jose Justin<br />
Mbimbi Mayi Munene, a student at the University of<br />
Kinshasa and a member of the AMNH <strong>Congo</strong> project for<br />
fieldwork and research on the fishes of the DRC. He collected<br />
not only an unusual black Epiplatys,<br />
but also two as-yet-undescribed<br />
Hypsopanchax species in a relatively<br />
small area in the middle section of the<br />
Lulua River.<br />
The recently described “Aphyosemion”<br />
teugelsi was found in museum<br />
material collected back in 1939 from<br />
a southwestern tributary of the Kasai<br />
near the border with Angola. This indicates<br />
the likelihood that in the future<br />
we can expect to see more new species<br />
from the southern tributaries of the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> Basin.<br />
splendidum achieved this in the northern <strong>Congo</strong> Basin,<br />
and the species has spread out from there for more<br />
than 600 miles (1,000 km). By contrast, “Aphyosemion”<br />
escherichi has penetrated only a few kilometers into the<br />
extreme west of the <strong>Congo</strong> drainage. The species was described<br />
from specimens caught at the foot of the Crystal<br />
Mountains in Gabon. “Aphyosemion” microphtalmum<br />
Lambert & Géry, 1968 (type locality: PK 85 on the Route<br />
Pointe Noire to Sunda, <strong>Congo</strong> Republic) and “Aphyosemion”<br />
simulans Radda & Huber, 1976 (type locality: stream<br />
on the road from Libreville to Cap Esterias, Gabon) are<br />
currently regarded as synonyms. “Aphyosemion” escherichi<br />
is distributed along the coast from northern Gabon to<br />
the lower course of the <strong>Congo</strong>.<br />
“Aphyosemion” labarrei (Poll 1951) was described<br />
from the Inkisi, a southern tributary of the lower <strong>Congo</strong>.<br />
A few years ago Soleil Wamuini, a doctoral candidate at<br />
the University of Liege in Belgium, who was supervised<br />
by staff at the RMCA, prepared an inventory of the fish<br />
fauna of the Inkisi (Wamuini et al. 2010), and in the<br />
process discovered several previously unknown species<br />
related to “A.” labarrei. Their description is now in<br />
progress. Apart from two differently colored Aphyosemion<br />
“Aphyosemion” escherichi from Mayombe, collected<br />
by A. Van Deun (May 2011) in Bas <strong>Congo</strong>.<br />
Aphyosemion sensu lato<br />
Compared with the region known as<br />
Lower Guinea (Equatorial Guinea,<br />
Gabon, Cameroon, and the coastal<br />
regions of the <strong>Congo</strong> Republic, the<br />
DRC, and Cabinda), Aphyosemion s. l.<br />
are poorly represented in the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin. Apart from 18 members of the<br />
A. elegans group (or Aphyosemion sensu<br />
stricto), only four additional species<br />
occur there: “Aphyosemion” escherichi,<br />
“A.” labarrei, “A.” teugelsi, and Raddaella<br />
splendidum.<br />
“Aphyosemion” escherichi (Ahl<br />
1924) is, like Raddaella splendidum,<br />
a member of the fish fauna of Lower<br />
Guinea that has managed to penetrate<br />
into the <strong>Congo</strong> drainage. Raddaella<br />
H. OTT<br />
Aphyosemion castaneum (HZ<br />
85/8), north of Kisangani.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
25
AMAZONAS<br />
cf. cognatum populations, no further killifishes have been<br />
collected.<br />
In May 2011, Armand Van Deun, a Belgian physician<br />
who regularly works in the <strong>Congo</strong>, brought back two new<br />
“Aphyosemion” labarrei populations that are now being<br />
bred by aquarist friends and distributed more widely.<br />
They come from two sites to the north and east of the<br />
type locality. The holotype in the RMCA differs considerably<br />
from the “Aphyosemion” labarrei aquarium strains<br />
known to date. It is a broader, compressed species with<br />
relatively long teeth and almost completely dark gray to<br />
black fins. Although the color pattern of “Aphyosemion”<br />
Aphyosemion chauchei (Obeya, RPC 91/6).<br />
Aphyosemion christyi (HZ 85/14), photographed in 1988.<br />
Aphyosemion cognatum from Kwambila.<br />
labarrei resembles that of “Aphyosemion” zygaima, which<br />
lives on the other side of the <strong>Congo</strong>, DNA studies show<br />
that the closest relatives are found in a group consisting<br />
of Aphyosemion, Raddaella, and Mesoaphyosemion (the<br />
“Aphyosemion” cameronense species group), as well as the<br />
“Aphyosemion” coeleste and the “Aphyosemion” wildekampi<br />
species groups (Collier 2007, Murphy & Collier 1999).<br />
“Aphyosemion” teugelsi (Van der Zee & Sonnenberg)<br />
was discovered in 2010 in the RMCA collection. This<br />
species is found in a very remote area in the south of<br />
the DRC, close to the border with Angola, at an altitude<br />
of 3,280 feet (1,000 m). Only Kathetys elberti and<br />
K. bamilekorum have been found at<br />
greater altitude. Although “Aphyosemion”<br />
teugelsi exhibits a superficially<br />
similar color pattern to A. congicum,<br />
the morphology is very different. This<br />
species is distinguished from those of<br />
the A. elegans group by the dorsal fin,<br />
which begins further forward and is<br />
relatively broad at the base, a larger<br />
head with relatively large eyes, and a<br />
more strongly upcurved dorsal profile.<br />
We were unable to assign it to any of<br />
the known species groups because of<br />
the morphological differences. Perhaps<br />
this fish belongs to a species group that<br />
lives in the hitherto rather inaccessible<br />
mountains of the southern <strong>Congo</strong> and<br />
northern Angola.<br />
Raddaella splendidum (Pellegrin<br />
1930). The Raddaella species are the<br />
only annual Aphyosemion s. l. They<br />
were long assigned to the genus Fundulopanchax,<br />
but DNA study shows that<br />
they definitely belong to Aphyosemion s.<br />
l. It is, however, unclear whether Raddaella<br />
is a monotypic genus with only<br />
one species, R. batesii, or whether R.<br />
kunzi and R. splendidum are also valid<br />
species. Raddaella species are the only<br />
Aphyosemion s. l. that occur in both<br />
Lower Guinea and the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin.<br />
The two species previously mentioned,<br />
which also occur in the <strong>Congo</strong> drainage,<br />
are restricted to western tributaries<br />
of the lower <strong>Congo</strong>. Raddaella are<br />
widespread in southern Cameroon<br />
and northern Gabon. To date, very<br />
few localities are known for them in<br />
Equatorial Guinea, the <strong>Congo</strong> Republic,<br />
and the DRC. Perhaps they reached<br />
the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin via the Likouala in<br />
the northwest.<br />
The Likouala has tributaries that<br />
drain the southeastern part of Camer-<br />
TOP: W. EIGELSHOFEN; MIDDLE: J.V.D. ZEE; BOTTOM: H. OTT<br />
26
oon. It is not unlikely that the change<br />
in the direction of flow of the Dja,<br />
which originally drained to the Atlantic<br />
coast, was originally responsible for<br />
the spread of Raddaella into the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin via the Ngoko, a tributary of<br />
the Likouala. Raddaella then spread<br />
upstream in an easterly direction. That<br />
wouldn’t have been difficult—in this region<br />
the <strong>Congo</strong> has a drop of only 328<br />
feet (100 m) over a distance of 1,242<br />
miles (2,000 km), so it is more like a<br />
lake than a river.<br />
“Aphyosemion” escherichi from Mayombe,<br />
collected by A. Van Deun (May 2011) in Bas <strong>Congo</strong>.<br />
TOP: K. STEHLE; BOTTOM: H. OTT<br />
Aphyosemion sensu stricto<br />
This group contains the majority of the<br />
Aphyosemion s. l. species of the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin. They are broadly identical in<br />
morphology but differ considerably in<br />
the coloration of males and in their<br />
DNA. Eighteen species are currently<br />
recognized. The distribution of most<br />
species is very complex and exhibits a<br />
mosaic-like, parapatric pattern. They<br />
sometimes also occur sympatrically,<br />
that is, in the same river system. However,<br />
in only a few cases to date are two<br />
species known to be syntopic (found at<br />
the same site).<br />
Aphyosemion castaneum (Myers 1924) was described<br />
by the author from preserved material collected by an<br />
American expedition to the <strong>Congo</strong>. He established that<br />
the genus used in those days for more slender killifishes<br />
of Africa, Haplochilus (Aplocheilus, now restricted to Indian<br />
and Asian species), didn’t constitute a homogenous<br />
group, and straightaway described the genus Aphyosemion.<br />
His newly described species A. castaneum was<br />
designated the type species of the genus. Authors such<br />
as Scheel, Radda, and Wildekamp regard A. castaneum as<br />
a synonym of A. christyi, but it has recently been shown<br />
that the occurrence of A. christyi is restricted to the<br />
eastern part of the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin at altitudes of 1,640 feet<br />
(500 m) and up, and that A. castaneum represents a valid<br />
species (Van der Zee & Huber 2006).<br />
Aphyosemion chauchei (Huber & Scheel 1981) is<br />
a “blue” species with blue dorsal and caudal fins and<br />
a yellow anal fin, found in a very limited area in the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> Republic. In the west and south it is replaced by<br />
a “yellow” species with yellow fins, shown on the map<br />
as A. “schioetzi.” The body forms of A. “schioetzi” and<br />
A. chauchei are identical. They are relatively small and<br />
slender Aphyosemion species, unlike A. schioetzi, which is<br />
a comparatively robust species. Aphyosemion schioetzi and<br />
A. “schioetzi” are separated by a large distributional gap,<br />
and we believe that they do not represent a single species.<br />
Whether A. “schioetzi” is an as-yet-undescribed species<br />
Aphyosemion castaneum (HZ 85/8), north of Kisangani.<br />
remains unclear at present (see also A. decorsei). With<br />
one exception, all known locations for A. chauchei lie in<br />
the southern Likouala basin. A population from Olombo,<br />
which differs in color pattern from the Likouala populations,<br />
lives in the Alima drainage.<br />
Aphyosemion christyi (Boulenger 1915) is restricted to<br />
the Ituri forest region northeast of Bafwassende. Aphyosemion<br />
margaretae (Fowler 1936) is regarded as a synonym<br />
(Van der Zee & Huber 2006). Wild-caught specimens of<br />
this species have a very typical violet coloration. Even in<br />
poor-quality photos the species can be easily identified on<br />
this basis. Aphyosemion christyi is very widespread in the<br />
Okapi Faunal Reserve. Several collections have been made<br />
there recently by Emmanuel Vreven (RMCA) and his<br />
colleagues. So far, this is the only species of the A. elegans<br />
group that can be identified by its meristics (countable<br />
traits), as on average it has more rays in the dorsal fin<br />
than the other species.<br />
Aphyosemion cognatum (Meinken 1951) has a very<br />
large distribution in the southern <strong>Congo</strong>. The distance<br />
from west to east is almost 559 miles (900 km). At the<br />
same time, the species exhibits numerous different phenotypes.<br />
The DNA of an aquarium strain of one of the<br />
eastern populations (Lake Fwa) was studied by Murphy<br />
& Collier (1999). It turned out that were no differences<br />
between the Lake Fwa and the Kinsuka populations (Van<br />
der Zee & Sonnenberg 2011). Hence it is possible that<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
27
AMAZONAS<br />
Aphyosemion lamberti (BSWG 97/9).<br />
Aphyosemion lujae, the type from Kondue on the Sankuru.<br />
Aphyosemion musafirii (AVD 1), 4.3 miles (7 km) north of Ubundu, wild-caught male,<br />
2007.<br />
since their importation the two strains have been mixed<br />
in the killifish hobby or incorrectly identified. More study<br />
is needed to demonstrate whether this is actually a single<br />
species with a large distribution or several species with a<br />
parapatric distribution, inhabiting adjoining ranges.<br />
Aphyosemion congicum (Ahl 1924). Genetic research<br />
(surprisingly) places this species in a group with A. castaneum<br />
and A. musafirii (Van der Zee & Sonnenberg 2011).<br />
The species is known from only two sites in the southern<br />
<strong>Congo</strong>; both were discovered by Radda<br />
in 1982. The species description is<br />
based on specimens with the locality<br />
given as “<strong>Congo</strong>.” At present, A.<br />
melanopteron Goldstein & Ricco 1970,<br />
whose type locality is also unknown,<br />
is regarded as a synonym. By contrast,<br />
Huber is of the opinion that the description<br />
by Ahl shows that A. congicum<br />
differs from A. melanopteron, as the<br />
former supposedly has many more red<br />
dots on the side (2007, online version<br />
www.killi-data.org). Unfortunately, the<br />
preserved type specimens in general no<br />
longer exhibit any traces of coloration.<br />
Aphyosemion decorsei (Pellegrin<br />
1904) is one of the most confused<br />
species of the A. elegans group. The<br />
status of A. decorsei has long been<br />
debated. Poll placed it in the genus<br />
Epiplatys, and in the description of<br />
Haplochilus decorsei Pellegrin even<br />
assumed a close relationship with<br />
Aplocheilichthys spilauchen. Myers<br />
(1924) tentatively placed the species<br />
in Aphyosemion. Scheel, Huber, and<br />
Wildekamp have examined all the types<br />
and confirmed Myers’s view. The type<br />
specimens originate from the south<br />
of the Central African Republic and<br />
are in poor condition, without any<br />
remaining traces of coloration. Huber<br />
suggests that A. decorsei has very few<br />
red dots on the side and is conspecific<br />
with A. polli; the latter would then be<br />
a synonym. Wildekamp (1993), by<br />
contrast, is convinced that A. decorsei<br />
has numerous dots on the side, based<br />
on the light spots on the scales of the<br />
syntypes. After preservation in formalin<br />
and subsequent transfer into alcohol,<br />
red pigments leave behind corresponding<br />
areas that are lighter than the body<br />
base coloration. Aphyosemion polli has<br />
not only few spots on the side, but also<br />
very few (or none at all) on the anal<br />
fin. These are arranged at the base of<br />
the fin. In the original description of A. decorsei Pellegrin<br />
wrote that the dorsal, anal, and ventral fins are covered<br />
with small, more or less numerous carmine red dots. We<br />
concur with Wildekamp’s argument: A. decorsei is a species<br />
with numerous dots, at least on the anal fin. But that<br />
doesn’t solve the problem of whether A. decorsei is a “yellow”<br />
fish like A. “schioetzi” and A. sp. RCA 3, collected by<br />
Pratt in 1983, or a “blue” fish like A. sp. “Lobaye.” Only<br />
further collections and photos of live fishes from the area<br />
TOP & MIDDLE: J.V.D. ZEE; BOTTOM: H. OTT<br />
28
H. OTT<br />
of the type locality will permit unequivocal clarification.<br />
Aphyosemion elegans (Boulenger 1899) is not identical<br />
with the species known to aquarists for decades under<br />
this name. In the 1950s the Belgian aquarist Lambert<br />
introduced killifishes from Boende labeled A. elegans into<br />
the aquarium hobby. We (Van der Zee & Sonnenberg<br />
2011) argue instead that Lambert’s fishes (which we<br />
term A. sp. “Cuvette”) do not agree with Boulenger’s description<br />
of A. elegans. This incorrectly identified species<br />
has a very characteristic dark red dorsal fin, which is also<br />
clearly recognizable in preserved specimens. Boulenger<br />
doesn’t mention this character in the text of the description<br />
of A. elegans, and no dark dorsal fin is shown in the<br />
illustration accompanying the description. Uli Schliewen<br />
brought what is probably the real A. elegans to Germany<br />
from Mbombokonda. Aphyosemion sp. “Bombala” also<br />
represents A. elegans, as does a commercial importation<br />
in 2006 from the Tshuapa in the Boende region. Aphyosemion<br />
elegans and the species recently described by us as<br />
A. pseudoelegans occur sympatrically in the central <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin.<br />
Aphyosemion ferranti (Boulenger 1910) is currently<br />
known only from preserved specimens from various<br />
locations in the southeast of the <strong>Congo</strong>. The species can<br />
(purportedly) be identified very easily by the red longitudinal<br />
band on the side of the body. But<br />
there is at least one further, undescribed<br />
species from the northern <strong>Congo</strong><br />
with a similar band. Perhaps a better<br />
character is the unusual, asymmetric<br />
color pattern on the caudal fin: spotted<br />
above, without spots below. The species<br />
also differs in further characters from<br />
the other Aphyosemion species and may<br />
belong in another species group, maybe<br />
with “Aphyosemion” teugelsi. New collections<br />
of both species, above all of<br />
live specimens and DNA samples, may<br />
solve many unanswered questions.<br />
Aphyosemion lamberti (Radda &<br />
Huber 1977) is widely distributed in<br />
Gabon. Aphyosemion lamberti and A.<br />
rectogoense are sibling species and, so<br />
far, the only members of the genus<br />
Aphyosemion that occur outside the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> Basin. To date it remains<br />
unknown whether the genus Aphyosemion<br />
colonized the <strong>Congo</strong> drainage<br />
from southeast Gabon or the ancestors<br />
of these two species came from the<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> Basin. DNA results so far seem<br />
to point to the second possibility. Like<br />
all other members of the species group,<br />
A. lamberti is also a rainforest dweller,<br />
while A. rectogoense is the only savanna<br />
dweller.<br />
Aphyosemion lefiniense (Woeltjes 1984) is restricted<br />
to the Lefini on the west bank of the <strong>Congo</strong> in the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Republic. After the first collection, on which the description<br />
was based, it wasn’t until 2005 that staff from the<br />
RMCA were able to find this species again at various sites<br />
in the Lefini. This species is very rare in the aquarium<br />
hobby, and the captive population may even have died<br />
out completely a few years ago.<br />
Aphyosemion lujae (Boulenger 1911) is currently<br />
known only from preserved specimens that originated<br />
from the Sankuru system, a tributary of the Kasai, at<br />
Kondue. Aphyosemion ferranti is also found near Kondue.<br />
This species was, however, also collected at various places<br />
around Bena Tshadi in 1974 and 1979. It remains unclear<br />
whether the currently known locations for A. ferranti and<br />
A. lujae in the vicinity of Kondue represent the southern<br />
boundary of the distribution of Aphyosemion, or whether<br />
the southern tributaries of the Kasai harbor additional,<br />
as-yet-unknown species.<br />
Aphyosemion musafirii (Van der Zee & Sonnenberg<br />
2011) was only recently described. The species<br />
was caught by Armand van Deun (AVD) in 2007, and<br />
specimens from two populations were brought back alive<br />
to Europe. These fishes have been maintained and bred<br />
in the hobby as A. sp. AVD 1 and AVD 2. Although the<br />
Aphyosemion plagitaenium from Epoma (RPC 91/1).<br />
Aphyosemion pseudoelegans<br />
from Boende, imported in<br />
2002.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
29
AMAZONAS<br />
Aphyosemion rectogoense from site PEG 95/16.<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
pseudoelegans from<br />
Boende, imported in<br />
2002.<br />
Aphyosemion schioetzi from Kintete.<br />
species looks more like a member of the A. cognatum<br />
group (numerous red dots on the sides of the body in<br />
males), its closest relative is A. castaneum, which lives on<br />
the other side of the <strong>Congo</strong>. DNA indicates that the two<br />
species may have been separated as long ago as one to<br />
two million years.<br />
Aphyosemion plagitaenium (Huber 2004) was discovered<br />
in 1991 during a collecting<br />
trip by Dutch and Belgian aquarists<br />
to the <strong>Congo</strong> Republic. It was known<br />
as A. sp. “Epoma RPC 91/1” prior to<br />
its description. This species, which<br />
has a remarkable color pattern, is so<br />
far known from only a single location<br />
in the system of the Mambili River, a<br />
tributary of the Likouala.<br />
Aphyosemion polli (Radda & Pürzl<br />
1987) was described from N’djili (Z<br />
82/26), close to the international airport<br />
near Kinshasa in the DRC. Many<br />
authors regard A. polli as a synonym of<br />
A. schoutedeni or A. decorsei, but we are<br />
convinced that A. polli is a valid species<br />
(see A. schoutedeni and A. decorsei).<br />
This species (if A. cf. polli is included,<br />
see map) is widespread in the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Basin. Collections known to date<br />
took place along the Uele, Ubanghi,<br />
and <strong>Congo</strong>. Apart from a number of<br />
populations in the north of the <strong>Congo</strong><br />
Republic, which were collected by Huber,<br />
and a population from a southern<br />
tributary of the Kasai, all collections<br />
have been made relatively close to the<br />
main rivers. Unfortunately, no photos<br />
of Huber’s collections were published,<br />
so the identification of the species<br />
cannot be checked. The preserved<br />
specimens from the southern location<br />
in the Kasai drainage exhibit the same<br />
color pattern as A. polli, but the dots<br />
on the sides aren’t round; they look<br />
like little crosses. Until new collections<br />
permit a definite identification, the<br />
unclear status of this fish should be<br />
expressed by the designation A. cf. polli.<br />
Aphyosemion pseudoelegans<br />
(Sonnenberg & Van der Zee 2012)<br />
is a species already known in the<br />
aquarium hobby, but has hitherto been<br />
incorrectly labeled as A. elegans (see<br />
A. elegans). It is known from several<br />
locations south of the <strong>Congo</strong> in the<br />
central <strong>Congo</strong> Basin and is found there<br />
sympatric and, in some cases, also syntopic<br />
with A. elegans, A. cf. castaneum,<br />
and a further, not-yet-described Aphyosemion species. Its<br />
characteristic characters are the dark red coloration of<br />
the dorsal fin (versus red dots on a light background in<br />
A. elegans) and an asymmetric sequence in the color pattern<br />
of the fin edges of the caudal fin.<br />
Aphyosemion rectogoense (Radda & Huber 1977)<br />
is the sister species of A. lamberti on the basis of DNA<br />
TOP & MIDDLE: H. OTT; BOTTOM: HANSSENS (RMCA)<br />
30
study. Ten localities are known in the<br />
hobby and all populations are very<br />
similar. There are, to date, only three<br />
collections in museums. This is the<br />
only Aphyosemion s. l. species on the<br />
IUCN Red List. This because of its<br />
small distribution region in the upper<br />
Lékoni-Djouya and the upper Mpassa in<br />
the Ogooue basin in southeast Gabon.<br />
The occurrence of this species has been<br />
heavily affected by pollution of the<br />
waters in the vicinity of Franceville<br />
and deforestation leading to increased<br />
sedimentation.<br />
Aphyosemion schioetzi (Huber &<br />
Scheel 1981) is the only representative<br />
of the A. elegans group in the lower<br />
<strong>Congo</strong> to the north of the river. Its<br />
distribution is limited to an area measuring<br />
around 62 x 62 miles (100 x 100<br />
km), with the majority of known populations<br />
in the DRC and two (including<br />
the type locality) in the <strong>Congo</strong> Republic.<br />
We do not concur with many other<br />
authors that this species also occurs in<br />
the northern <strong>Congo</strong> with a distributional<br />
gap of more than 259 miles (400<br />
km) (see A. chauchei), but suggest that<br />
a further, probably still undescribed<br />
Aphyosemion species is involved, shown<br />
on the map as A. “schioetzi.” Aphyosemion<br />
schioetzi populations exhibit a<br />
relatively uniform color pattern, unlike<br />
the related species A. cognatum, in<br />
which numerous different phenotypes<br />
are known.<br />
Aphyosemion schoutedeni (Boulenger<br />
1920) has hitherto been assumed to<br />
be restricted to the type locality Medje,<br />
around 186 miles (300 km) northeast<br />
of Kisangani in the northeast of the<br />
DRC. Although the types are in good<br />
condition, all traces of coloration have<br />
disappeared. But to the present day,<br />
topotypes collected by Lang and Chapin<br />
in 1910 have retained their color pattern<br />
(Van der Zee & Huber 2006),<br />
which resembles that of A. castaneum<br />
except for the pattern of the anal fin.<br />
This color pattern is found in various<br />
RMCA Aphyosemion collections that<br />
originate from the Aruwimi basin east<br />
of the Kisangani-Buta road. Hence it<br />
can be assumed that the distribution<br />
region is significantly larger than previously<br />
thought.<br />
Taxonomy in upheaval: the genus Aphyosemion<br />
DNA studies indicate that the genus Aphyosemion is a complex assemblage<br />
of genetically clearly distinguishable species groups and isolated<br />
species. So far only the most obviously distinct species groups have<br />
been described as genera or subgenera (eg Chromaphyosemion, Kathetys,<br />
Diapteron, Episemion, Raddaella). On the other hand, right from<br />
the start the subgenus Mesoaphyosemion was the “rubbish bin” for all<br />
the difficult-to-classify species and species groups.<br />
And therein also lies a problem with the taxonomy of Aphyosemion<br />
s. l. Humans, as sight-oriented animals, can very easily appreciate the<br />
definition of Chromaphyosemion or Diapteron, as the species within<br />
these groups are very similar, but exhibit clear differences from other<br />
Aphyosemion. This is less apparent with other groups, for example<br />
the “A.” wildekampi and “A.” cameronense species groups. Molecular<br />
genetic studies indicate, however, that phylogenetically speaking, the<br />
visually very distinct species groups are not necessarily more genetically<br />
distant from one another.<br />
Now there are two taxonomic possibilities here: either accept<br />
that the other species groups also represent separate genera, just like<br />
Diapteron, Episemion, and others. Or put them all in a genus Aphyosemion<br />
s. l. with numerous subgenera. But that doesn’t solve the<br />
problem of the species groups so far without any name, whether as<br />
subgenus or genus.<br />
From a pragmatic viewpoint a catch-all genus Aphyosemion provides<br />
less information content than Diapteron or Chromaphyosemion,<br />
for example. For practical purposes it is all the same whether we use<br />
species-group names (e.g., the Aphyosemion bivittatum or A. georgia<br />
group) or scientific names (Chromaphyosemion, Diapteron) for the<br />
different groups. A species group equates to what some authors call<br />
either a subgenus or genus. Hence, as far as the aquarium hobby is<br />
concerned we can regard the terms “species group,” “subgenus,” and<br />
“genus” as essentially equivalent.<br />
Just as with the species groups, it is often the case at species level<br />
as well that usually the most distinctive species are described first. A<br />
good example is the A. cameronense species group or Mesoaphyosemion:<br />
populations are termed M. cameronense that do not have a particularly<br />
distinctive body coloration, that is, have metallic blue to blue-green on<br />
the sides of the body, overlain with a very variable red pattern. Several<br />
obviously different phenotypes have been described in recent decades,<br />
for example M. amoenum and M. halleri, which both have a yellow<br />
caudal peduncle, and M. maculatum and M. mimbon, which possess<br />
a spotted pattern on the sides. Genetic studies indicate that many of<br />
the blue forms of M. cameronense are just as different genetically as the<br />
phenotypically more distinct, described species. Here, too, there are<br />
two solutions: lump everything together in the species M. cameronense,<br />
which would be to ignore major genetic and phenotypical differences<br />
between the phenotypes, or retain the existing species and acknowledge<br />
that M. cameronense as currently understood represents a species<br />
complex. It is for precisely such situations that the use of the aforementioned<br />
locality codes is important, because that way name changes<br />
can be understood, regardless of where these fishes belong taxonomically<br />
and where they come from.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
31
AMAZONAS<br />
32<br />
11
Undescribed species<br />
The western part of the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin has already been well explored, and it is<br />
likely that few new species will be discovered in this region. But nothing can<br />
be ruled out: Huber didn’t find Aphyosemion plagitaenium when he collected<br />
in this area back in 1978; it was discovered by De Waegeneer, Vlym, and Van<br />
der Berg in 1991 during the RPC trip. This species appears to be restricted to a<br />
very small area, and there may be other species with very limited distribution<br />
regions of this type. On the other hand, A. “schioetzi” was collected several<br />
times by Huber at different locations, but not by the RPC team in 1991.<br />
The northern part of the <strong>Congo</strong> drainage undoubtedly harbors as yet<br />
undescribed species, because, for example, several very different-looking (even<br />
when preserved) Aphyosemion, which do not accord with any currently known<br />
species, were collected there by missionaries and deposited in museums. There<br />
are at least two phenotypes that may represent new species in the rainforest<br />
between the Uele and the <strong>Congo</strong>. One of them was recently collected and<br />
photographed by Uli Schliewen (ZSM).<br />
A very interesting species lives in the savanna in the northeast of the Uele<br />
basin. To date the only savanna-dwellers recognized within Aphyosemion s. l.<br />
are Kathetys elberti, K. bamilekorum, and Aphyosemion rectogoense. Unfortunately,<br />
no traces of the color pattern remain visible in the preserved specimens. A<br />
possibly new Epiplatys species has also been found in the same area.<br />
In various places in the east, south of the distribution of Aphyosemion<br />
christyi, a phenotype occurs that has a rather similar color pattern to A. christyi;<br />
the red dots are, however, much smaller. It is probable that further differences<br />
will be found as soon as the live coloration of this species is known.<br />
So far there have been only a very few collections made in the southern<br />
part of the <strong>Congo</strong> Basin. Every southern tributary of the Kasai possibly has<br />
its own endemic species, as all these rivers are separated from one another<br />
by savanna. As already mentioned above, at least one striking fish, similar to<br />
Aphyosemion polli, occurs there. The distance from other A. polli localities is<br />
very great. That would give Aphyosemion polli probably the largest distribution<br />
of all Aphyosemion s. l. with the exception of Raddaella batesii. On the other<br />
hand, the similarity of the color pattern (in preserved specimens) may be<br />
coincidental.<br />
A collecting trip east from Kinshasa, investigating every southern tributary<br />
of the Kasai, would probably produce very exciting results. Initially you would<br />
find Aphyosemion cognatum and A. congicum. Further south in the Wamba, you<br />
would probably be able to capture “Aphyosemion” teugelsi. But thereafter, further<br />
east, every catch would likely be a surprise. Another interesting trip would<br />
be a journey along the northern border of Angola. Although the numerous<br />
Kasai tributaries offer promising habitats, to date not a single Aphyosemion<br />
has been collected there. So far, only a number of interesting lampeyes are<br />
known from this region, unfortunately only as preserved material.<br />
Acknowledgments: We would like to thank Werner Eigelshofen (Sprockhövel),<br />
Mark Hanssens (RMCA, Tervuren, Belgium), Paul Lemmens (Leuven,<br />
Belgium), Heinz Ott (Mönchengladbach), Klaus Stehle (Attenkirchen), and<br />
Emmanuel Vreven (RMCA, Tervuren, Belgium) for permission to use their<br />
photos. We would also like to thank U. Schliewen, A. Van Deun, the ichthyological<br />
team at the RMCA in Tervuren, and the Elegans-AG of the DKG for<br />
supporting us in our work.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
Extensive references for this article can be found online at the Reef to Rainforest site:<br />
http://www.reef2rainforest.com/aphyosemion-issue-references/.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
33
AMAZONAS<br />
34
COVER<br />
STORY<br />
The keeping of<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
in the aquarium<br />
by Olaf Deters It is hard to imagine how a fish can be attractive, colorful, not too<br />
large, peaceful, and interesting, and still not be common in the aquarium hobby, but this<br />
has been true of killifishes for years. In hopes of awakening more interest in them, I will<br />
spell out just what the aquarist needs to know to keep Aphyosemion species successfully.<br />
TOP: H. NIGL; MIDDLE & BOTTOM: O. DETERS<br />
Opposite page,<br />
top: The “Cape<br />
Lopez,” here the<br />
golden form of<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
australe, is the<br />
best-known<br />
member of the<br />
genus.<br />
Middle:<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
castaneum<br />
is very<br />
attractive, but<br />
unfortunately<br />
also very<br />
demanding.<br />
Bottom:<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
striatum is<br />
also found<br />
in the trade<br />
now and then.<br />
The species<br />
tolerates higher<br />
temperatures.<br />
The killifishes have been known to generations<br />
of aquarium keepers, and there are numerous<br />
species; they deserve greater recognition on account<br />
of their colors, but only a few standard<br />
species are found in the aquarium trade—for<br />
example, Aphyosemion australe, known as the<br />
“Cape Lopez” killie. Interestingly, Aphyosemion<br />
australe is not considered the easiest species in<br />
the genus to maintain.<br />
One reason for the poor spread of Aphyosemion<br />
species in the aquarium hobby may be<br />
certain long-standing prejudices against them,<br />
which cannot be entirely discounted. Nevertheless,<br />
the species are not really complicated—<br />
many “standard fishes” are more demanding.<br />
The aquarist needs only to make a few adjustments<br />
in order to keep Aphyosemion, and they<br />
will generally prove to be rewarding pets.<br />
Accomplished jumpers<br />
There is the matter of jumping, for example.<br />
Yes, Aphyosemion can and will jump out of the<br />
aquarium if given the opportunity. In the wild<br />
they are not at the top of the food chain, so<br />
they try to evade their predators by escaping<br />
into areas where the water is shallow, sometimes<br />
only a few centimeters deep. Should<br />
danger also threaten there, the best escape<br />
method is to leap up, quickly and as far as<br />
possible.<br />
However, this behavior isn’t equally<br />
expressed in all species. Some exhibit jumping<br />
behavior in an extreme form, others not<br />
at all. But for safety’s sake, the aquarium for<br />
Aphyosemion should be tightly covered. These<br />
fishes will find the smallest gap in the cover<br />
glass, for example where filter parts enter or<br />
exit. Any gaps can be plugged with filter wool.<br />
If you don’t take these precautions, things may<br />
be fine for a while, but one day you will find a<br />
desiccated mummy on the floor or a fish will<br />
have disappeared without trace.<br />
It is also believed that killifishes aren’t<br />
long-lived. They certainly don’t live to be<br />
ancient, but it is usually possible to keep them<br />
for two or three years, and sometimes longer,<br />
though you shouldn’t raise your expectations<br />
too high. Aphyosemion will seek to breed if<br />
given the opportunity, but the presence of a<br />
mate causes continual stress, which inevitably<br />
shortens the lives of the fishes. It is questionable<br />
whether the alternative of keeping them<br />
singly to prolong life expectancy is really wise.<br />
Moreover, in the long term, over-warm water<br />
can reduce life expectancy.<br />
Water and temperature<br />
It is sometimes stated that Aphyosemion are demanding<br />
when it comes to the water, and that<br />
idea didn’t appear out of thin air. These fishes<br />
come mainly from flowing waters and won’t<br />
tolerate old and polluted water for long. They<br />
may survive for a while in such conditions,<br />
but they will age more rapidly. So regular water<br />
changes are very beneficial for them. On the<br />
other hand, special preparation of the water is<br />
only necessary if it is very hard. The majority of<br />
Aphyosemion species can readily be maintained<br />
and even bred in medium-hard tap water.<br />
The correct water temperature is of some<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
35
Aphyosemion cameronense is widely distributed<br />
and very variable in appearance.<br />
Aphyosemion cameronense (locality BSW9920).<br />
Left: Female Aphyosemion are rather plainly colored. Only in<br />
Aphyosemion hera (right) are the females very colorful.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
36
importance. Inland species, in particular those from<br />
higher regions, prefer temperatures of around 68–70°F<br />
(20–21°C), sometimes even lower. The average domestic<br />
aquarium cannot provide this, so you should think<br />
carefully before acquiring such species. However, these<br />
cool-water species are rarely found in the aquarium<br />
trade. Examples of species that require cooler maintenance<br />
include Aphyosemion mimbon, A. coeleste, and A.<br />
maculatum.<br />
On the other hand, coastal species or species from<br />
the lowlands and savanna regions live at temperatures<br />
similar to those in our aquariums. The water parameters<br />
there generally resemble those of average tap water, so<br />
such species are better suited to the normal aquarium<br />
than species from the interior. Suitable species include<br />
Aphyosemion australe, A. striatum, A. primigenium, and A.<br />
marginatum, for example.<br />
Everything but greens<br />
Diet has a significant influence on these fishes. Essentially,<br />
green food is of no interest to Aphyosemion. They<br />
will take any live foods that they can overpower, from all<br />
sorts of mosquito and midge larvae, water fleas, Cyclops,<br />
and fruit flies to Tubifex and White or Grindal Worms.<br />
Aphyosemion will also reliably take Artemia nauplii as long<br />
as the latter remain alive, but they aren’t adequate food<br />
for larger fishes in the long term. With good feeding the<br />
females will visibly fill with eggs. If this doesn’t happen<br />
for an extended period, other foods should be offered.<br />
In my personal experience, Aphyosemion much prefer<br />
live food, and fishes that are accustomed to it are reluctant<br />
to take frozen or dry food. This can cause problems<br />
in times of live-food shortage. Naturally that doesn’t<br />
happen with frozen or dry food, as these are always<br />
available.<br />
and hence no obvious territories are established. Where<br />
several fishes live together in an aquarium there is a high<br />
probability that there will be a “top dog” who chases<br />
the other males and pursues the females. The almost<br />
constant harassment of females by males is part of<br />
normal behavior. Healthy individuals can cope with that,<br />
and there should be no losses as long as there are places<br />
to which subordinate males and oppressed females can<br />
retire. Only extremely weak specimens will be unable to<br />
cope in the long term.<br />
Danger of hybridization<br />
Generally speaking, Aphyosemion species can be kept with<br />
other fish species; as a rule they do not occur alone in<br />
the wild. However, tankmates should never look similar<br />
to their predators, which include larger characins and<br />
cichlids. And they don’t need to be actually dangerous for<br />
Aphyosemion. It is enough if their appearance causes the<br />
Aphyosemion anxiety. On the other hand, small tetras and<br />
small barbs are fine. In addition, fish species from other<br />
regions can generally be kept with Aphyosemion, as long<br />
as they don’t actually hunt them.<br />
If you really want to obtain the maximum benefit<br />
from these fishes in the aquarium, it is advisable to buy<br />
not just a trio, but a larger number, all at the same time.<br />
That can mean four pairs or more. The fishes will then<br />
exhibit more natural behavior and will be constantly visible<br />
and less retiring.<br />
It is also possible to keep several Aphyosemion species<br />
together in the aquarium, but only if you have no ambition<br />
to breed them. Because many of the females look<br />
very similar and related species will generally cross, you<br />
should at least ensure that the species chosen are as different<br />
from one another as possible. But any fry that may<br />
turn up should never leave your home.<br />
Not territorial<br />
Aphyosemion are not considered aggressive towards other<br />
fishes. However, within the genus and, naturally, within<br />
their own species, there are sometimes very violent<br />
squabbles. Noticeably weaker individuals can suffer badly<br />
as a result. And females will vigorously harass males that<br />
are very small. It is not usually possible to predict if this<br />
will happen. Note that in some individual species, for<br />
example Aphyosemion amoenum, it is not unusual for<br />
females to grow more rapidly and become significantly<br />
larger and stronger than males.<br />
Some individuals are very timid. This isn’t necessarily<br />
due to an error in maintenance; even in the wild it is<br />
undoubtedly advantageous to the survival of the species<br />
for there to be cautious as well as outgoing specimens. In<br />
times when food is in short supply, the outgoing individuals<br />
are at an advantage, but in the event of major<br />
predation pressure it is the retiring specimens that will<br />
survive.<br />
Aphyosemion are not territorial in the normal sense,<br />
Not too much light, not too much space<br />
The subject of minimum aquarium size conceals numerous<br />
pitfalls, especially when it comes to the killifish<br />
hobby. Be that as it may, the usual 2-foot (60-cm)<br />
beginner’s aquarium of 15–20 gallons is suitable for up<br />
to four pairs of adult Aphyosemion. And you can usually<br />
keep even more in it. Problems arise only when a single<br />
dominant individual terrorizes the other fishes. In such<br />
cases, even a larger aquarium doesn’t guarantee a solution.<br />
The dominant individual chases the others all over<br />
the aquarium and the weak specimens can’t keep out of<br />
sight of the alpha individual for long. In my experience<br />
Aphyosemion are often rather shy and retiring in larger<br />
aquariums. Only if there are sufficient fishes of a species<br />
present will they be lively and outgoing in large aquariums<br />
as well.<br />
Aphyosemion have only a limited acquaintance<br />
with lush aquatic plants in their native waters—usually<br />
streams that, depending on the time of year and the<br />
amount of precipitation, are a few meters wide and a few<br />
0. DETERS<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
37
Aphyosemion amoenum females grow larger than the males.<br />
Aphyosemion mimbon likes cooler conditions.<br />
The larger-growing Aphyosemion herzogi lives in shallow water.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
38
0. DETERS<br />
The mystery of the locality code explained<br />
Killifish names often have strange-looking abbreviations appended, for<br />
example BDBG 04/15 “Lolo1” or LEC 93/4. These codes make it possible<br />
to keep different populations separate and avoid mixing them together<br />
in the aquarium hobby. These codes are assigned at the discretion of the<br />
collectors and are not subject to any particular rules. They contain fundamental<br />
information and also permit the addition of further data. Thus<br />
BDBG stands for the two collectors Bogaerts and de Bruyn, and the G<br />
represents the country of Gabon; 04 indicates the year 2004 and the 15<br />
stands for collecting site no. 15. “Lolo1” refers to the nearby settlement.<br />
Anyone working with these fishes can find out, on the Internet, for<br />
example, who is behind the codes. Sometimes you can find very precise<br />
additional habitat data in the process, including the GPS data of the location,<br />
the time of capture, and other details such as water depth, current<br />
speed, air and water temperatures, water parameters, and other fishes<br />
caught there. Because the codes describe collecting sites, it may well happen<br />
that two different, but syntopic killifish species bear the same code if<br />
they were caught together at the same site.<br />
How far the information goes is at the discretion of the collector. As<br />
can be seen from the other articles here, the taxonomy of Aphyosemion is<br />
still unresolved, and it is likely that we can expect name changes and new<br />
species descriptions. Names may be altered, but locality codes remain unchanged.<br />
In this way it is possible to tell what fish was originally involved,<br />
even after a revision.<br />
Information on Aphyosemion and other killifishes can be found on the<br />
Internet at the American Killifish Association (www.aka.org) or the UK<br />
Killifish site (www.killi.co.uk). For online purchase directly from breeders,<br />
most of them in the United States, www.AquaBid.com usually sells<br />
various killifish and killifish eggs, including Aphyosemion spp., at auction.<br />
deep but may also be very narrow and shallow. Popular<br />
haunts are shallow areas with trailing bank vegetation or<br />
submerged grasses. Depending on the region,<br />
these areas may also be shaded by surrounding<br />
trees. Still, a planted aquarium is appreciated.<br />
But cover in the form of bogwood and oak<br />
leaves is equally well accepted. Caves may be<br />
investigated out of curiosity, but not deliberately<br />
used.<br />
Bright lighting can cause the fishes to become<br />
more timid and their splendid coloration<br />
won’t look as good. If the vegetation is feathery,<br />
there is even a possibility that the fishes<br />
will spawn in it and occasional juveniles will<br />
survive. If this happens regularly and you want<br />
to keep the young, you should remove the larger<br />
youngsters—they often pose a greater danger to<br />
their younger siblings than the parents do.<br />
It should be obvious that an open-topped<br />
aquarium is out of the question because of the<br />
tendency of the fishes to jump. You can, of<br />
course, allow the surface to become<br />
overgrown with floating plants in<br />
order to limit the jumping to some<br />
extent, but this offers no guarantee<br />
that jumping won’t occur.<br />
Smaller aquariums with a volume<br />
of 6–7 gallons (25 L) are also fine if<br />
used as species tanks.<br />
Suitable starter species<br />
There are many species that could be<br />
listed here. I would suggest first and<br />
foremost the coastal species—that is,<br />
those that need to be kept warmer<br />
and will tolerate tap water. The problem<br />
is that with a few exceptions,<br />
they are not available in the trade.<br />
Aphyosemion australe and Aphyosemion<br />
striatum are well known and<br />
available. Aphyosemion marginatum<br />
and Aphyosemion primigenium are at<br />
least as attractive, but are not common<br />
in the trade.<br />
In my opinion there is a further<br />
reason why Aphyosemion species are<br />
not often found in the trade: wildcaught<br />
specimens are rarely available.<br />
As a result, the killies don’t come to<br />
the attention of the public and are<br />
regarded as demanding and exotic.<br />
The deliberate breeding of Aphyosemion<br />
is relatively time-consuming, and<br />
large numbers cannot be produced<br />
without expense and effort. So killifishes<br />
in general, and Aphyosemion<br />
in particular, have for many years remained hobby fishes<br />
reserved for enthusiasts.<br />
Neolebias unifasciatus is found together with Aphyosemion.<br />
39
COVER<br />
STORY<br />
Breeding<br />
Aphyosemion<br />
by Olaf Deters and Michael Schlüter First the bad news: Breeding Aphyosemion is the opposite of<br />
making lots of money for little effort. Anyone who wants to breed Aphyosemion must make quite a large<br />
commitment. The adults neither tend the eggs nor care for their offspring, so you don’t always get many<br />
offspring. And the breeder must constantly be on the ball—intervening, looking for eggs, and sorting out<br />
dead ones every day. Rearing the fry is work, too. It is possible to mass-produce some species, but the<br />
outcome can’t be predicted.<br />
Above: Part of a<br />
breeding setup for<br />
Aphyosemion species.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Right: A courting pair<br />
of Aphyosemion sp.<br />
“Oyo,” a member of the<br />
A. elegans group.<br />
O. DETERS<br />
40
Killifish are associated with the ability to survive<br />
in bodies of water that dry up periodically. The<br />
development of the eggs extends over the dry<br />
period, and the next generation hatches with the<br />
next rainy season. The eggs can remain dormant<br />
for many months, and not all the fry hatch in<br />
the first rain; it might be not a downpour, but<br />
just a brief cloudburst.<br />
This ability is exhibited by the so-called annual<br />
killifish. Typical annual genera include the East<br />
African Nothobranchius and the South American<br />
Austrolebias and Simpsonichthys, for example.<br />
These genera unconditionally require a dry, dormant<br />
period for the eggs, as otherwise they won’t develop.<br />
But the majority of killifishes are not annual species.<br />
Their eggs develop over a predictable period of<br />
between 10 days and three or four weeks. So they don’t<br />
absolutely need to be kept in a substrate such as peat or<br />
chopped coconut hair to simulate a dry period in contact<br />
with air, but can generally also develop in water.<br />
Such species are termed “non-annual.”<br />
There are also semi-annual killifishes, whose biotopes<br />
dry up only occasionally. The eggs of these species<br />
will develop both in water and in a substrate. The eggs<br />
don’t stick to plants, so in this case, too, peat or something<br />
similar should be used as a spawning substrate.<br />
Aphyosemion are non-annual killies. The development<br />
of the eggs takes around two to three weeks, with<br />
temperature-induced variations up or down. If the<br />
upper boundary of the time window is greatly exceeded,<br />
the embryo will die while still in the egg or will be too<br />
weak to break through the eggshell completely.<br />
A pair of the recently described Aphyosemion pseudoelegans from<br />
the vicinity of Boende, Tshuapa drainage.<br />
Male Aphyosemion buytaerti BSW 99-03.<br />
Continuous spawners<br />
Aphyosemion are so-called continuous spawners. If the<br />
fishes are in good condition and in the right mood,<br />
they will lay a few eggs every day for a long period of<br />
time. The number of eggs can vary from 0 to 20. If the<br />
sexes are separated for several days beforehand, large<br />
females may produce as many as 100 or more eggs<br />
initially, but not infrequently the loss rate is very high if<br />
there are a lot of eggs. The dead eggs fungus rapidly and<br />
infect the good ones, and in the end you are left with<br />
none. For this reason it isn’t especially desirable to get a<br />
large number of eggs from a pair all at once.<br />
A prerequisite for spawning is that the fishes should<br />
be in good condition, and that is not least the result of<br />
heavy feeding. The females should be visibly full of eggs.<br />
They shouldn’t be full to bursting, but nothing can be<br />
expected from noticeably slim individuals. It is usual to<br />
offer live foods such as mosquito larvae or Cyclops. Lots<br />
of fatty foods, such as Tubifex or White Worms, will<br />
encourage egg formation. Some species will accept frozen<br />
food, as long as they are accustomed to it.<br />
It is always astonishing how rapidly the fishes react<br />
to changes and improvements in feeding. If they have<br />
M. SCHLÜTER<br />
Aphyosemion herzogi from Zomoko GBG 92-25.<br />
been fed sparingly for some time and haven’t spawned<br />
much, or at all, you will often find significantly more<br />
eggs a day or two after enriching the diet with a hefty<br />
portion of live food.<br />
Aphyosemion do not exhibit multifaceted courtship<br />
behavior like many cichlids and gouramis. Instead, they<br />
get right to the point. The male drives the female around<br />
the aquarium and, when the opportunity arises, positions<br />
himself in front of her and excitedly displays the<br />
maximum possible splendor of coloration and finnage.<br />
In some species the mouth area becomes as yellow as a<br />
bright lemon as well—a pretty impressive sight.<br />
If the female is willing to spawn, the pair press into<br />
the spawning substrate together and she lays an egg. If<br />
the female isn’t yet convinced, she is chased around the<br />
tank time and again until she changes her mind. Should<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
41
AMAZONAS<br />
Above: Pairs<br />
or groups of<br />
fishes can be<br />
placed in plastic<br />
containers. In<br />
this one, Perlon<br />
mesh and<br />
mops made of<br />
artificial wool<br />
(left) serve<br />
as spawning<br />
substrates.<br />
the female become excessively stressed by the pushiness<br />
of the male, she will seek out a hiding place. For<br />
this reason it is advisable to make sure hiding places are<br />
available—otherwise the male can become too rough,<br />
and weaker females occasionally succumb. The burden<br />
on individual females can also be reduced by using two<br />
females and a male, a so-called trio. However, sometimes<br />
a pair forms and the second female is then chased by<br />
both fishes, or she eats the eggs laid by the spawning pair.<br />
It is thus wise to watch the fish carefully at first so as to<br />
be able to intervene if necessary.<br />
That said, a certain amount of tension between the<br />
partners is generally desirable. Pairs that live together too<br />
peacefully and harmoniously in the aquarium often lay<br />
no eggs for long periods, if they lay any at all. The idyll<br />
is thus deceptive in a breeding context. In such cases,<br />
temporary separation of the sexes, a change of partner,<br />
or a hefty water change using cooler water can provide a<br />
stimulus. But there are also pairs from which you never<br />
get as much as a single egg.<br />
Mops, peat, and Perlon<br />
Woolen mops, peat fiber, and fine nylon thread are the<br />
spawning substrates normally used. The advantages of<br />
artificial substrates are obvious: they are more durable,<br />
can be used for a long time, and have no effect on water<br />
quality. The majority of breeders use dark woolen mops<br />
made of synthetic wool, which can be attached to a cork<br />
or other buoyant material so that they float in the water.<br />
The woolen threads should be long enough to extend<br />
down to the aquarium bottom, as many species like to<br />
spawn in the lower regions. Alternatively, the mop can<br />
simply be laid on the bottom. You need to check out<br />
where the fish prefer to spawn. Any second mop provided<br />
as cover for the female or as an alternative spawning<br />
site should have a different texture and/or color; some<br />
Aphyosemion are fussy in this respect.<br />
It is sensible to make sure that there is no other material<br />
in the aquarium that might be used by the fishes as<br />
substrate, for example, Java Moss. Otherwise, finding the<br />
eggs may be difficult. Essentially, although the eggs can<br />
develop in the tank, it makes sense to look for them every<br />
day and store them separately. Many adults eat their eggs<br />
and the eggs often die off in the aquarium. But if they<br />
are transferred into a small bowl with very little water<br />
O. DETERS<br />
42
(around 5 mm), they should develop well. One possible<br />
explanation may be that there is a better supply of oxygen<br />
for the eggs.<br />
But it can also work the other way around: you can<br />
remove the adults after a few days and then leave the<br />
young in the breeding aquarium or container. If this<br />
variation proves successful, it is easier and often produces<br />
better results. But it doesn’t work for all species, individuals,<br />
and aquarists. You must check it out for yourself.<br />
Hard eggs<br />
The eggs have a diameter of around 0.8–1.5 mm and are<br />
clear to transparent yellowish or orange. They are slightly<br />
adhesive and so stick securely to the substrate. The eggshell<br />
is rather hard, so the eggs can be collected with the fingers.<br />
You quickly develop the necessary feel and eye for this.<br />
Only eggs laid prematurely are still soft and burst<br />
when collected. It is helpful to briefly squeeze the spawning<br />
mop in a handkerchief in order to remove excess<br />
water. If you repeat this procedure several times, the eggs<br />
are then easier to find.<br />
Sometimes the eggs are not fertilized or the larvae die<br />
well into the development phase. It is wise to find these<br />
dead eggs at an early stage and remove them with a pipette<br />
or an airline. Otherwise they will seriously pollute the water<br />
and infect other eggs. You need to distinguish between<br />
two forms of fungussing: on the one hand the eggs may<br />
be attacked from outside, and on the other they may die<br />
internally, in which case the fungus is only secondary.<br />
It isn’t unusual for the<br />
Below: Here a whole group first eggs from young pairs<br />
of Aphyosemion australe to come to naught, but there<br />
have been put to breed. The<br />
are other problems that can<br />
adult fish are left to spawn<br />
lead to total loss of the eggs.<br />
in the peat for a number of<br />
days and then removed. Some young males don’t<br />
In this egg of an Aphyosemion species, the larva is already<br />
well developed. The eyes are clearly visible.<br />
fertilize the eggs properly. The reasons for this are manifold<br />
and offer much room for speculation, but we won’t<br />
venture onto that thin ice here.<br />
When storing eggs in water, it is advisable to spot bad<br />
eggs as soon as possible and remove them with a pipette.<br />
Cloudy eggs shouldn’t be put in the container—they will<br />
fungus almost immediately and may endanger the others.<br />
If the eggs are shaken up in the water, you will find that<br />
some eggs float for a noticeably long time before sinking<br />
to the bottom. These, too, are suspect. Healthy eggs,<br />
regardless of their stage of development, sink quickly.<br />
In our experience, the storage container should have<br />
a shallow water level. This is thought to provide a better<br />
oxygen supply for the eggs because of the more favorable<br />
volume-surface ratio. The water should be only half a<br />
centimeter deep. We use 100 percent reverse-osmosis water,<br />
or perhaps add a minimal amount of tap water. You<br />
can also add a small piece of Sea Almond leaf, but the<br />
color of the water shouldn’t become excessively yellow<br />
TOP: R. SONNENBERG; BOTTOM: W. HILGNER<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
43
Left, top to bottom:<br />
The “Cape Lopez,” Aphyosemion australe, here the<br />
normal form, is one of the few species that are bred<br />
commercially.<br />
“Cape Lopez” males courting and displaying to a single<br />
female.<br />
The female is already in spawning position; the males<br />
are still impeding each other.<br />
oxygen supply. Alternatively, the airline can be<br />
fastened to the container with a clothespin so<br />
that the water’s surface is constantly in motion.<br />
It is also important to cover the container so no<br />
dust can get in.<br />
The temperature of the water is difficult<br />
to ascertain in such small amounts, but it is<br />
important to avoid major fluctuations. As long<br />
as the container is placed on the cover glass of<br />
the aquarium (provided it isn’t an aquarium<br />
with a light hood), you should be sure of a good<br />
temperature range for the eggs.<br />
The eggs will alter progressively over the<br />
days that follow, and using a magnifying glass<br />
you will be able to see the embryos inside. If<br />
an egg becomes noticeably dark and you can<br />
see the eyes of the fry using a magnifying glass,<br />
hatching may follow shortly. The fry usually<br />
manage to initiate this themselves.<br />
If the fish don’t hatch unaided, you can<br />
assist by adding cold water, shaking them in a<br />
small jar, or vigorous stirring. The old method<br />
of sprinkling a little flake food on the water’s<br />
surface, so that the oxygen content of the water<br />
drops rapidly, can also trigger hatching. But in<br />
that case a complete water change is required<br />
immediately after hatching.<br />
The fry swim free immediately after hatching<br />
and can generally also take small Artemia<br />
right away. Sometimes they don’t fill their<br />
swimbladders with air and remain bellysliders<br />
all their lives. You should think very hard<br />
about rearing such specimens, as they probably<br />
won’t be accepted as breeding partners. If there<br />
are a large number of bellysliders, you may still<br />
be able to obtain healthy young by adding an<br />
oxygen tablet or a small piece of one shortly<br />
after hatching.<br />
Dry storage<br />
In addition to storing them in water, the eggs<br />
of non-annual species can be stored dry. This results in<br />
an even hatch rather than hatching being spread over a<br />
longer period, as is the case with storage in water. This<br />
has the advantage that you can rear a good number of fry<br />
together. You will need a fairly tight-closing container,<br />
for example a standard margarine tub, containing a<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
or the eggshells will harden and the larvae will die off<br />
inside. You will need to experiment to see whether the<br />
water needs to be changed daily for fresh or not. If the<br />
eggs are developing and not dying off, a water change<br />
in the storage container isn’t necessary. The container<br />
can also be gently aerated in order to guarantee a better<br />
W. HILGNER<br />
44
layer of peat fiber, which should be moist enough that it<br />
won’t dry out quickly, but not wet. It can be remoistened<br />
periodically with a spray bottle. The container should be<br />
labeled with the species name and the date the eggs were<br />
harvested.<br />
Lay the eggs on the peat, trying to keep them from<br />
touching one another. This helps to avoid a fungussed<br />
egg infecting a neighboring one. Monitor the development<br />
of the eggs, and when you think that the hatching<br />
point may have been reached, add water to the container.<br />
If all has gone well, the majority of the fry will hatch. Or,<br />
the eggs can be picked out by hand and placed in fresh<br />
water, as peat consumes oxygen and must be laboriously<br />
separated from the larvae. Either way, it is worth storing<br />
the peat moist and adding water again a few days later.<br />
Another method is to use peat fiber in the aquarium<br />
instead of a spawning mop, removing it after a few days<br />
and storing it moist in a plastic bag or lidded container.<br />
This avoids having to pick out the eggs by hand. You will<br />
have no idea how many eggs have been laid, but this is<br />
a simple and effective variant for readily bred species. In<br />
the case of recalcitrant species we would recommend the<br />
more labor-intensive, but more easily monitored method,<br />
which may well prove easier in the long run.<br />
Which method works best depends on the circumstances<br />
and the skill of the aquarist. Everyone will find<br />
his or her own route to success.<br />
The fry grow out fairly quickly. The size of the rearing<br />
container should be suited to the size of the fish. There<br />
is no advantage to a small number of fry in too large a<br />
container. The fish won’t find the food as well, are often<br />
timid, and don’t grow well. Then again, lots of fish in a<br />
small container is not a good idea either, because they<br />
won’t grow well.<br />
Problem areas<br />
Sometimes the fish undergo long pauses in spawning<br />
and are then difficult to induce to spawn again. This isn’t<br />
necessarily dependent on the food situation. For example,<br />
boredom can also lead to unwillingness to spawn. If you<br />
are keeping only one pair, there is no option to change<br />
partners, so other ways must be found to perk the fish<br />
up again, such as making a water change with noticeably<br />
cooler water. To amplify the effect you can also stop making<br />
water changes for a long time beforehand. In this way<br />
you can simulate the tropical dry season, during which<br />
the fish have to make do without fresh rain water.<br />
Transfer to a completely different aquarium or spawning<br />
container can also help. Reluctant spawners should<br />
be separated and kept separate for at least a week. During<br />
this period the female should be fed heavily. The male<br />
should be fed somewhat more sparingly, or he may lose<br />
his sex drive and react only half-heartedly to the female.<br />
It is also wise to consider from what region your<br />
Aphyosemion originated. From this you can evaluate<br />
whether your fish prefer cooler water or should be kept<br />
and bred in warmer water. If<br />
the species is from the lowlands<br />
or the savannas, then Aphyosemion australe<br />
Below: Spawning<br />
penetrate a little way into<br />
it will naturally prefer higher<br />
the peat, release eggs, and<br />
temperatures, which may<br />
spawn while lying close to<br />
mean a range of 73–77°F<br />
each other.<br />
W. HILGNER<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
45
M l Whole Squid Meal, Stabilized Rice Bran, Whole Sardine Meal, Flax Seed Meal,<br />
Ch drus Algae Ascophy lum Algae, Konjac, Ca<br />
t Calendula F<br />
NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUM<br />
SPECIALTY PET PRODUCTS<br />
Visit Repashy.com to view our full<br />
line of fish and reptile products.<br />
NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUMPTI<br />
OMNIVORE GEL PREMIX<br />
Our Meal Replacement Gel for Omnivorous<br />
Species of Fish and Aquatic Invertebrates.<br />
f product add ¼ cup of powder into ¾ cup of water and stir<br />
i tes) remove and stir. Alternatively,<br />
ediately<br />
l f 24 hours or longer, promoting<br />
fi d out<br />
M al Whole Squid Meal, Whole Kri l Meal, Pea Protein Isolate, Dried Brewers Yeast, C<br />
t Calcium Propionate, Dicalcium Phosphate, Taurine, Sp<br />
i Root Powder Malic Acid,<br />
CT INFO PAGE WWW.REPASHY.COM/COMMP<br />
SCAVENGER ER GEL PREMIX<br />
AUFWUCHS UCHS<br />
GEL PREMIX<br />
Our Meal<br />
Replacement Gel for<br />
Our Meal Replacement Gel for Aufwuchs (algae Aquatic Scavengers of all kinds.<br />
and small living organisms) eating species of Fish,<br />
Invertebrates, Amphibians and Reptiles.<br />
h l l f h l<br />
hd l l f 4h l<br />
NOT FOR HUMAN CONSUMP<br />
CARNIVORE GEL PREMIX<br />
Our Meal Replacement Gel for Carnivorous Species<br />
of Fish, Amphibians, Invertebrates, and Reptiles.<br />
Rice Bran, Dandilion Powder, Dried Brewers Yeast, Flax Seed<br />
Algae, Potassium Citrate, Calcium Propion t<br />
Marigold Flower Extract R<br />
luconate L<br />
h d l can last for 24 hours or longer, promoting<br />
ll tion To find out<br />
dd ¼ cup of powder into ¾ cup of cold water<br />
t ) remove and stir.<br />
REPASHY VENTURES, ES INC.<br />
Toll Free Phone/Fax<br />
<br />
<br />
WWW REPASHY.COM/MPFISH<br />
INGREDIENTS: Chlore la Algae, Spirulina Algae, Pea Protein Isolate Germi<br />
NOT FOR HUMAN CONSU<br />
(Arachidonic acid), Dried Brewers Yeast, Chondrus Algae, Konjac Carob B<br />
Phaffia Rhodozyma Yeast, Paprika Extract Calend l<br />
Potassium Sorbate, Rosemar E<br />
cid Phos h<br />
INGREDIENTS: Whole Squid Meal, Whole Sardine Meal, Whole Kri l Meal, Schizochytrium A<br />
NOT FOR HUMAN CONSU<br />
NFO PAGE WWW REPASHY COM/SS<br />
CONDITIONING ION ONIN<br />
NING<br />
NG GEL LPR<br />
PREMIX<br />
X<br />
Our growth and conditioning formula for<br />
freshwater and marine omnivorous,<br />
ous,<br />
insectivorous, and carnivorous fish.<br />
INFORMATION: This product is designed to be used to condition Broodstock for<br />
spawning and is also suitable for the initial raising o fry<br />
This formula is high in fat and not suitable as a st<br />
Contains high l l<br />
Tauri<br />
VEGAN ALGAE GEL PREMIX<br />
Our Formula for Obligate Algae Eating<br />
Herbiverous Freshwater Fish and Invertebrates.<br />
Contains no animal products.<br />
Finished gel can last for 24 hours or longer, promoti<br />
natural grazing and reducing water p ll<br />
more plea d<br />
T INFO-PAGE WWW.REPASHY.COM/SPGN<br />
until blended. Microwave until it starts to boil (typica ly 2 3<br />
bring water to a boil on stove or in mic<br />
pour into a storage cont<br />
finish d<br />
DIRECTIONS: To prepare one cup of product, add ¼ cup of powder int ¾<br />
2037<br />
PAGE WWW.REPASHY.COM/SPAWN<br />
until blended. Microwave until it starts to boil (typica l 2<br />
bring water to a boil on stove or in mi<br />
pour into a storage<br />
fii<br />
DIRECTIONS: To prepare one cup of product, add ¼ cup of powder i t<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
46
(23–25°C). If it comes from forest regions in the highlands,<br />
then the correct temperature range is 64–68°F<br />
(18–20°C).<br />
If the fish came from near the coast, as is the case<br />
with Aphyosemion australe (Cape Lopez) or Aphyosemion<br />
striatum (Red-Lined Killifish), for example, this indicates<br />
warmer and not necessarily soft water. By contrast, the<br />
water in the mountain streams tends to be soft. Again,<br />
there are differences between rainforest and savanna areas.<br />
A further hurdle to be reckoned with is the sex ratio<br />
among the offspring. This can prove extremely skewed,<br />
with up to 100 percent males or females. There are a<br />
number of factors that influence sex determination, but<br />
so far this has actually been proved only for individual<br />
species under very specific conditions.<br />
The most popular theory<br />
suggests that the sex ratio can be<br />
influenced to some extent by the<br />
maintenance temperature for the<br />
fry during the first two weeks. This<br />
actually works for some aquarists,<br />
but often only with particular species<br />
with particular parameters. Often<br />
their results cannot be repeated<br />
elsewhere.<br />
Another method involves putting<br />
two fry at a time in a container and<br />
keeping them there by themselves for<br />
at least two weeks. This frequently<br />
produces a pair. Unfortunately, this<br />
method isn’t reliable either, and<br />
also appears to be influenced by<br />
other factors. Often the sex ratio of<br />
offspring reared with the parents is<br />
more favorable than that in youngsters<br />
incubated externally.<br />
around and mention the species groups with which you<br />
definitely shouldn’t start—primarily those that come<br />
from cooler waters. It is easier to heat the water than to<br />
keep it permanently cool. Even without any influence<br />
from lighting and pumps, under living-room conditions<br />
temperatures will reach levels at which the fish won’t<br />
necessarily be inclined to spawn.<br />
Recommended starter species include Aphyosemion<br />
elberti, A. striatum, A. marginatum, and A. australe. Listing<br />
possible additional species would be a waste of time,<br />
since they are not easy to find in the trade. Reliable<br />
sources include enthusiasts you find through your local<br />
fish store or aquarium society and online killifish club<br />
websites and forums.<br />
Species and crosses<br />
The more closely Aphyosemion species<br />
are related to one another, the<br />
greater the likelihood that they will<br />
hybridize. Whether their offspring<br />
remain fertile over several generations<br />
is another matter. However, it<br />
cannot be stressed enough that creating<br />
hybrids makes no sense. The fish<br />
are already brightly colored enough;<br />
there is nothing to be optimized and<br />
molded, and crossing two species<br />
isn’t a breeding achievement to write<br />
home about.<br />
A not unimportant question for<br />
the beginner is, of course, which<br />
Aphyosemion he should start with<br />
and where he can get them. We will<br />
turn the first part of the question<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
47
The Río Magdalena flows through a<br />
gigantic valley. The photograph below<br />
was taken at Honda in April 2011.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
48
AQUATIC TRAVEL<br />
In Search of the<br />
Blue-Eyed Plec<br />
by Heiko Bleher It was April 2011, and it had been over 20 years since my last visit to the<br />
Magdalena Valley. This time, my objective was to discover why the export of the Blue-Eyed<br />
Plec, Panaque cochliodon, from this region came to a standstill in the mid 1990s. What<br />
could have caused this sudden change<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE: H. BLEHER; THIS PAGE: H.-G. EVERS<br />
For a long time the Blue-Eyed Plec, Panaque cochliodon,<br />
was sold incorrectly as Panaque suttoni in the aquarium<br />
hobby, and even called by this name in the scientific<br />
literature. The type locality of P. cochliodon is the Río<br />
Cauca in Colombia. Another species that purportedly<br />
has blue eyes is Panaque suttunorum from the Río Negro,<br />
Maracaibo Basin in Venezuela. P. suttunorum has not so<br />
far turned up in the aquarium trade, while the opposite<br />
is true of P. cochliodon. I first imported both sexes of this<br />
fish with the intense blue eyes as long ago as the late<br />
1960s. These catfish were not very popular initially, but<br />
from the mid-1970s to around the mid-1990s it was<br />
virtually impossible to get enough of them.<br />
The high losses among imports were attributable to<br />
the difficulty of transporting the specimens, which were<br />
usually large. There were virtually no specimens smaller<br />
than 6 inches (15 cm) total length caught, let alone<br />
shipped from Bogota, Colombia, the only export location.<br />
I traveled on several occasions to<br />
the collecting area. Every time this<br />
involved a hellish journey down to<br />
the middle of the Magdalena drainage<br />
along one of the most winding and<br />
dangerous roads in South America.<br />
The majority of Blue-Eyed Plecs<br />
were collected from Honda and<br />
Cambao. Drivers transported the fish<br />
from the Magdalena Valley, just a few<br />
hundred meters above sea level, to an<br />
altitude of almost 9,843 feet (3,000<br />
m) in Bogota. I repeatedly tried to<br />
educate the collectors and drivers and<br />
asked them to be careful, but this<br />
didn’t help much—most of the numerous<br />
exporters in Colombia shipped<br />
these beautiful fishes far too tightly<br />
packed and often still chilled.<br />
You should know that an eternal spring, so to speak,<br />
rules in Bogota, and it is much too cold for all tropical<br />
fishes. The water temperature in the holding tanks of<br />
many exporters wasn’t adequately monitored, and the<br />
fish, usually packed in simple cardboard boxes or just<br />
lying in the vehicle in plastic bags, were subjected to<br />
continually decreasing temperatures throughout the long<br />
journey up through the mountains. There was no question<br />
of quarantine in the randomly heated aquariums in<br />
Bogota, let alone the prophylactic treatment that might<br />
have increased the fish’s chances of survival. Normally<br />
they were packed and exported right away.<br />
Travels in the Magdalena Valley<br />
In Bogota I was greeted enthusiastically by my good<br />
friend Pedro Zea at Eldorado Airport, which has remained<br />
unchanged during the more than 40 years I have<br />
known it. Now, it is slated to be demolished. Pedro runs<br />
The Blue-Eyed Plec<br />
got its name from the<br />
characteristic color<br />
of its eyes.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
49
Panaque cochliodon from<br />
the Río Magdalena, near<br />
Cambao.<br />
We caught Hypostomus hondae in the<br />
Río Magdalena near Cambao.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
H. BLEHER<br />
50
Right: This Hypostomus sp. was caught in<br />
the cast net.<br />
what is hands-down the best export<br />
station in Colombia, which he<br />
established almost four decades ago<br />
near the town of Villavicencio in<br />
the warm Amazon basin. All of his<br />
fishes are acclimated for a month<br />
there before being shipped out.<br />
Pedro had reserved a car for me,<br />
and his brother-in-law, Antonio<br />
Salamanca Barrera, was to be my<br />
companion. Every week for 15<br />
years, Antonio transported 500–600<br />
Blue-Eyed Plecs from the Magdalena<br />
Valley to Bogota for Orinoco<br />
Aquarium, but that ended in the mid-1990s. Antonio<br />
and Pedro, and most other exporters and importers, were<br />
convinced that the Blue-Eyed<br />
Below: This<br />
Isorineloricaria species,<br />
very likely undescribed,<br />
was a spectacular catch.<br />
This monotypic genus<br />
had been known only<br />
from the west Andean<br />
rivers of Ecuador.<br />
Plec had died out due to environmental<br />
destruction, so they<br />
were naturally very surprised<br />
that I had come to Colombia to<br />
look for it.<br />
The road was as full of<br />
bends as ever and though it was<br />
somewhat improved, there was a<br />
corresponding increase in truck traffic. Many hours later<br />
we reached La Vega at an altitude of around 3,600 feet<br />
(1,100 m), a once-tiny village that has now grown into<br />
a veritable town. We then descended to 2,297 feet (700<br />
m) and then climbed again to 5,249 feet (1,600 m), and<br />
it was evening before Honda, down in the Magdalena<br />
Valley, came into view. This town, too, has grown; it<br />
has now expanded to both sides of the eternally murky<br />
Magdalena, and the two parts are connected by an iron<br />
bridge. The old town has been very beautifully renovated,<br />
and we stayed in a nice little hotel there.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
51
Adult Panaque<br />
cochliodon from San<br />
Martin de Loba.<br />
Poison<br />
I wanted to seek out Antonio’s fisherman contact right<br />
away the next morning. We made our way through narrow<br />
alleys, inquired all over the place, and eventually<br />
found his house a long way outside of town. I don’t think<br />
he recognized me any more, but he knew Antonio, who<br />
had regularly purchased his fishes for 15 years. When I<br />
asked him about cuchas de ojo azul, he looked at me and<br />
said only that it would be easier to win the lottery than to<br />
find a cucha—there were none left and he had long since<br />
given up looking for them, since the “American millionaire<br />
had poisoned everything.”<br />
When I heard that, I was more than a little surprised,<br />
because even Antonio knew nothing about it.<br />
The fisherman told us that a little over 12 years ago, an<br />
American was there visiting with his daughter. She was<br />
stung by a freshwater ray while swimming and fell into<br />
a coma. Her father thought he was going to lose his only<br />
child, and wanted to avenge her. He had experts develop<br />
a poison that would sink immediately in the water and<br />
kill the bottom-dwelling fishes—that is, the rays he<br />
hated. Tons of it were tipped into the upper course of<br />
the Magdalena and killed thousands of stingrays, as well<br />
as everything else that lived on the bottom, including<br />
the Blue-Eyed Plecs and seven or eight other loricariid<br />
species.<br />
Local fishermen kept trying to catch cuchas de ojos<br />
azul for around two years, but without success. They gave<br />
This stingray is Potamotrygon magdalenae (Dumeril,<br />
1865), a common species that may have triggered<br />
the environmental vandalism in the Magdalena.<br />
We also caught this ray. Is it a variant<br />
of P. magdalenae or a new species<br />
52
At the time of<br />
my visit, the<br />
Magdalena was<br />
full of catfishes<br />
of the family<br />
Pimelodidae,<br />
making their way<br />
upstream by the<br />
thousands.<br />
up trying. In Cambao, further up the Magdalena, another fisherman, Jawel<br />
Gomes Perrera, and three others told me the same thing. The American had<br />
put the poison in the represa of the Lago Prado and the Magdalena had been<br />
full of dead fishes for weeks.<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE, TOP: H.-G. EVERS; THE REST: H. BLEHER<br />
A lighter variant<br />
We spent two days in Cambao with Jawel, who nowadays catches only food<br />
fishes such as Pseudoplatystoma, Ageneiosus, Pimelodus, Hypostomus, Cyphocharax,<br />
and a Leporinus species. Nevertheless, he was prepared to accompany me<br />
in my search for cuchas de ojos azul. But we couldn’t find any Blue-Eyed Plec.<br />
We didn’t find anything in the Río Seco, either.<br />
The story of the Blue-Eyed Plec is really tragic, and once again demonstrates<br />
what Homo sapiens is prepared to do to destroy aquatic fauna. I also<br />
made searches in the upper Río Magdalena in the Departamento del Huila,<br />
but without success. However, I did find a population of the Blue-Eyed Plec,<br />
albeit a lighter variant, in the Río Cauca in the vicinity of Tamalameque,<br />
before it empties into the Río Magdalena. This variant looks very similar to<br />
another blue-eyed species, Cochliodon soniae (L 137), which I found in the<br />
middle Tapajós many years ago.<br />
This form doesn’t have such a black body coloration as the form that formerly<br />
lived in the Magdalena. When I showed the owner of Stingray Aquarium<br />
my lighter-colored Blue-Eyed Plecs, he told me that the lighter form had also<br />
been brought back from the region of San Martin de Loba by his collectors.<br />
A few specimens of this lighter variant from Colombia have been offered<br />
for sale—at $250 U.S. each from Bogota—a serious price for serious catfish<br />
breeders only. The average aquarist will have to wait and hope.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
Burgess, W. 1989. An Atlas of Freshwater and Marine Catfishes. TFH Publications, Neptune City, NJ.<br />
Ferraris Jr., C. 1991. Catfish in the Aquarium. Tetra Press, Morris Plains, NJ<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
53
HUSBANDRY<br />
& BREEDING<br />
A Native Jewel: Etheostoma caeruleum,<br />
by Ken Zeedyk The Rainbow Darter, Etheostoma<br />
caeruleum, is a beautiful and intriguing small fish<br />
native to North American rivers and streams. It<br />
is known to some hobbyists and the occasional<br />
fisherman, but most people in its native range are<br />
not aware that there is such an amazing beauty right<br />
in their own backyard. I have found that Rainbow<br />
Darters make hardy and very interesting aquarium<br />
inhabitants, and have even succeeded in breeding<br />
them. Males in full breeding color are among the<br />
most colorful of freshwater fishes, and look like they<br />
belong in the tropics rather than the cold, fastflowing<br />
rivers and streams that they inhabit.<br />
The author on a<br />
Rainbow Darter<br />
collection trip in<br />
Michigan.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Rainbow Darters are part of the Percidae family, which<br />
includes the popular game fishes the Walleye (Sander vitreus)<br />
and the Yellow Perch (Perca flavescens). While some members<br />
of this family are found in North America, Europe, and<br />
Eurasia, the Etheostomini subfamily of darters is exclusive<br />
to North America, predominantly east of the Continental<br />
Divide. The darter family comprises over 150 species, including<br />
the recently described spangled darter, Etheostoma obama,<br />
which is named after U.S. president Barack Obama, and is<br />
native to the Buffalo and Duck Rivers in central Tennessee. A<br />
A pair of Rainbow<br />
Darters, Etheostoma<br />
caeruleum; the male<br />
is on the left.<br />
KEN ZEEDYK<br />
54
the Rainbow Darter<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
55
Rainbow Darter (male). The beauty<br />
of this native North American species<br />
rivals that of better known tropical<br />
fishes.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
total of five new Etheostoma darter species were introduced<br />
in 2012, and all were named after United States<br />
presidents (and one former vice-president) in recognition<br />
of their leadership in the fields of conservation and<br />
environmental protection.<br />
The life of an American jewel<br />
The Rainbow Darter’s native range is predominantly<br />
across the Ohio and Mississippi River drainages, from<br />
northwestern New York, across southern Ontario,<br />
Canada, and as far west as Minnesota, where Lake<br />
Phalen, the only lake in which Rainbow Darters have<br />
been found, is located. To the south, their range extends<br />
into Arkansas and northern Alabama, with an isolated<br />
population in southwestern Mississippi. Introduced<br />
populations have become established in the Genesee and<br />
Fox River drainages in New York State. While Etheostoma<br />
caeruleum from different river drainages can be variable<br />
in color, at this time no subspecies are recognized. This<br />
would most likely change if the different Rainbow Darter<br />
populations were studied, so it is best to not mix darters<br />
from different locales.<br />
Rainbow Darters inhabit areas of high water flow in<br />
second-order and larger streams and rivers. A secondorder<br />
stream is one formed by two tributaries coming<br />
together into one stream, a third-order stream consists<br />
of three tributaries that have come together into a single<br />
stream, and so on. These darters are typically found<br />
over riffles or relatively shallow areas with larger rock<br />
substrates. They use these rocks as cover to hide from<br />
predators and as a shield from the current. They prefer<br />
waters that are slightly alkaline and moderately hard and<br />
stay relatively cool. Water temperatures in their preferred<br />
habitats in the north can vary from close to freezing to<br />
over 70°F (21°C). They share this habitat with various<br />
other Etheostoma and Percina darter species, chubs, and a<br />
number of dace and minnow species.<br />
Etheostoma caeruleum is a micro-predator, feeding on<br />
aquatic insect larvae including those of midges, caddis<br />
flies, mayflies, and black flies as<br />
well as consuming fish eggs and<br />
other small organisms. Their<br />
diet varies during the course<br />
of the year, depending on the<br />
availability of food resources and<br />
competition from other species.<br />
Rainbow Darters are<br />
relatively small, only reaching a<br />
length of 2.5–3 inches (6.4–7.6<br />
cm) when fully grown, and<br />
their life expectancy in the wild<br />
is between two and three years. Females exhibit a small<br />
amount of color on the dorsal fin and on the flanks,<br />
which intensifies during the breeding season. Males in<br />
full breeding color are very gaudy when observed from<br />
the side, with blue cheeks, brilliantly colored fins, and<br />
banding on their flanks. However, observing these fish<br />
in their habitat can be quite challenging. Due to their<br />
bright coloring, one would think they would be easy to<br />
spot in nature, but when viewed from above their dorsal<br />
patterning blends into the substrate, and the activity<br />
for which they were named becomes evident as they<br />
dart from rock to rock in order to avoid capture. Rainbow<br />
Darters are opportunistically preyed upon by larger<br />
predatory fishes such as sculpins, trout, Smallmouth<br />
Bass, Stonecats, and Burbots.<br />
Gem hunting<br />
Rainbow Darters can be obtained through specialized<br />
breeders found online, or they can be collected from their<br />
native habitat for individual use as regulations allow. Before<br />
venturing out to capture your own Rainbow Darters,<br />
be sure to know and follow the fishing rules and regulations<br />
of the state in which you are collecting. A fishing<br />
license is required, and a permit to collect and maintain<br />
native fishes may also be necessary. In some locations,<br />
collecting native fishes is prohibited altogether. Please<br />
respect the natural habitat, don’t over-collect and risk<br />
depleting the natural breeding population, respect private<br />
property, and never transport fishes between drainages or<br />
release any captive animals back into the wild. Also, be<br />
sure to thoroughly clean and dry your collecting equipment<br />
in order to prevent the exchange of invasive plants<br />
and other harmful organisms between watersheds. In<br />
captivity the Rainbow Darter can live for three years or<br />
more, so be prepared to care for your captive fish for an<br />
extended length of time.<br />
Collecting Rainbow Darters can be accomplished<br />
using a number of different techniques, any of which can<br />
be quite entertaining to watch. Two of the most popular<br />
BOTTOM: SHAELYN MCGEE; OTHERS: KEN ZEEDYK<br />
56
are collecting individually with a long-handled dip net, or<br />
in a group with a 4- to 8-foot wide seine net. Ideally, the<br />
dip net would have a 1/8–1/4-inch mesh bag supported<br />
by a square or triangular metal rim. A flat-edged rim<br />
allows the net to be placed securely on the stream bed.<br />
When collecting alone, a net handle of 4 feet or longer<br />
is helpful and can be used to help steady oneself in the<br />
current. The seine net should also be of 1/8–1/4-inch<br />
mesh, with floats on the upper edge and weights on the<br />
lower edge to keep it vertical in the water while being<br />
strung between two poles. Both methods require entering<br />
the river or stream, so a good pair of<br />
waders or hip boots is recommended,<br />
especially if the collecting trip<br />
occurs during the spring breeding<br />
season, when water temperatures<br />
are still in the 50°F (10°C) range.<br />
Collecting individually requires<br />
a small or medium-sized longhandled<br />
dip net. The net is placed<br />
downstream from the collector<br />
behind a promising group of rocks<br />
and held with one hand. The collector<br />
then disturbs the rocks and<br />
substrate with his (or her) foot<br />
upstream of the net while balancing<br />
on the other foot. This flushes the<br />
darters out of hiding and, typically, downstream into the<br />
net. As long as you don’t lose your balance and fall into<br />
the cold water, this works quite well.<br />
The group method of collecting requires a minimum<br />
of three people and a 4- to 8-foot seine net. Two people<br />
place the seine net into the stream, facing into the current<br />
and holding the handles at an angle, making a nice<br />
collecting pocket in the net. The third person moves upstream<br />
of the net and proceeds to do the “darter dance,”<br />
which entails shuffling and kicking the feet rapidly across<br />
the substrate while moving in a zigzag pattern toward the<br />
Shoal of Rainbow Darters<br />
in a native fish community<br />
tank maintained by the<br />
author.<br />
Inset: colorful Etheostoma<br />
caeruleum male, fresh from<br />
the stream.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
57
Collecting Rainbow Darters is best done with<br />
a team: Patrick Miller and Phillip Kukulski<br />
collaborate to capture the elusive darters in a<br />
Michigan stream.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
net. The darters are flushed from hiding into the waiting<br />
net, and a number of them can be collected at one time<br />
using this method. Occasionally the “dancer” will lose<br />
his or her balance and end up taking a dip in the cold<br />
water, much to the enjoyment of the others.<br />
Bringing your treasures home<br />
Personally, I have not experienced any problems transporting<br />
or acclimating newly collected Rainbow Darters,<br />
and they typically start feeding within a few hours of<br />
relocation. Proper transport entails bagging a small number<br />
of fish with clean river water into a thick 3–4-mil<br />
plastic or breather bag, then placing them in a cooler or<br />
other insulated container in order to keep them at a cool<br />
temperature. If the fish will be traveling for an extended<br />
period of time a battery-powered air pump may be used<br />
to circulate the water in the transport container. Typical<br />
acclimation procedures for aquarium fishes should be<br />
utilized, especially if the fish are going from very cool water<br />
into a home aquarium. Acclimating the fish to room<br />
temperature in an open bucket with an airstone and a<br />
drip line from the tank is sufficient.<br />
Showcasing your collection<br />
Hiding places in the form of driftwood or rock caves are<br />
appreciated by these fish and make them feel more secure<br />
when first introduced to the aquarium, but once they<br />
have become accustomed to their new environment they<br />
soon learn to recognize their providers and approach the<br />
front glass of the aquarium in anticipation of a meal.<br />
Rainbow Darters are diurnal feeders upon benthic insect<br />
larvae, but will rise to take food from mid-water in the<br />
aquarium. They prefer frozen bloodworms, daphnia, and<br />
live blackworms and eat them with enthusiasm, and<br />
these also work best in conditioning the fish<br />
for spawning. Some specimens eventually take<br />
prepared foods in the form of small pellets or<br />
flake, but they still prefer “real” foods. Placing<br />
the food into the current in the tank often<br />
helps to trigger a feeding response.<br />
Provide their aquarium with clean, cool<br />
water and good current created by an external<br />
filter or internal powerhead, along with<br />
sufficient biological filtration, such as an airdriven<br />
sponge filter. The temperature of the<br />
water in which I housed my darters fluctuated<br />
between 68°F (20°C) in the summer to a low<br />
of 62°F (17°C) in the winter. This roughly<br />
corresponds with their high-end temperature<br />
range in the wild. I am fortunate to live in an<br />
area that draws its drinking water from Lake<br />
Michigan, since this water chemistry has proven satisfactory<br />
for the darters. The water out of the tap has a pH<br />
of 7.5 and a hardness of 142 ppm. I perform 70 percent<br />
water changes every two weeks using dechlorinated tap<br />
water, and any detritus that has collected is removed at<br />
that time.<br />
The substrate in the aquarium should consist of<br />
rounded, pea-size gravel up to a depth of 2 inches (5<br />
cm), or if the aquarium is going to be used only for<br />
breeding, it can be left bare and a separate shallow dish<br />
or other container of gravel can be placed in the current<br />
where the female can deposit her eggs. I would recommend<br />
using gravel that is natural in color, similar to<br />
what you would see in the fish’s natural environment.<br />
In areas of softer water, dolomite may be added to the<br />
gravel, or a piece of limestone can be placed in the tank<br />
to increase water hardness.<br />
Increasing the bounty<br />
Breeding occurs in the early spring, when the days<br />
lengthen and water temperatures rise. The females<br />
become visibly swollen with eggs when they are ready to<br />
spawn, and the males exhibit their most brilliant colors<br />
during this time. The males stake out small territories<br />
within preferred spawning areas, which is important to<br />
keep in mind if multiple males are housed together.<br />
The easiest method for spawning Rainbow Darters in<br />
captivity is to collect a pair or trio of adult fish in early to<br />
mid-April and introduce them to an aquarium specifically<br />
set up for breeding. The spawning aquarium can<br />
be from 5 to 20 gallons (19–78 L) in size, depending on<br />
whether or not you will be pulling the eggs. A tight-fitting<br />
lid is recommended, and the aquarium may be lit with a<br />
fluorescent bulb if desired. Once the fish are acclimated<br />
KEN ZEEDYK<br />
58
to their new surroundings, spawning<br />
should commence within a week.<br />
The other option is to over-winter<br />
them in captivity, which was the<br />
method I chose. Over-winter conditioning<br />
entails a reduced photoperiod and<br />
lowered water temperatures, preferably<br />
into the 45–55°F (7–13°C) range for<br />
up to two months; however, I successfully<br />
conditioned them by dropping<br />
the temperature down to the low<br />
60s Fahrenheit. Exposure to indirect<br />
outdoor light is beneficial, and based<br />
on my initial experiences this exposure<br />
to natural photoperiod fluctuations is<br />
a more important conditioner than a<br />
large drop in temperature. Many of the<br />
references to darter breeding that I have<br />
read list water temperature as an important conditioning<br />
factor for Rainbow Darters, but the water temperature in<br />
my spawning tank did not get below 60°F (16°C). The<br />
aquarium was exposed to natural lighting from southfacing<br />
windows, so the fish were exposed to natural fluctuations<br />
in the photoperiod. The females still became<br />
visibly swollen with eggs and the males colored up.<br />
I look forward to testing limited temperature drops<br />
and exposure to natural light cycles on other native<br />
fishes from my area.<br />
Post-spawning<br />
behavior in the<br />
author’s Rainbow<br />
Darter aquarium.<br />
her, but once she starts eyeing the substrate he becomes<br />
very interested and rushes to her side with his fins fully<br />
extended. The female dives head first into the gravel and<br />
pushes forward until just her snout and the top of her<br />
tail are exposed. She lays a small number of eggs in the<br />
The making of new gems<br />
Spawning is initiated when the female enters the<br />
spawning area. The male may or may not display to<br />
Rainbow Darter<br />
eggs with prominent<br />
eyes developing.<br />
Inset, newly hatched<br />
Etheostoma<br />
caeruleum fry.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
59
In addition to their amazing colors and<br />
intriguing natural behaviors, these living<br />
jewels also have plenty of character and<br />
personality.<br />
mature and the Iowa Darters spawn<br />
later in the year and deposit their<br />
eggs in floating vegetation and<br />
spawning mops. This native fish<br />
aquarium was quite entertaining to<br />
watch—the darters and dace could<br />
be frequently observed hopping and<br />
zipping throughout the aquarium<br />
looking for food and interacting.<br />
Reflections of an American<br />
jewel hunter<br />
Experiencing these amazing and beautiful<br />
fish in my own “backyard” was,<br />
and still is, extremely rewarding. It<br />
has given me an even greater respect<br />
for the aquatic environments in my<br />
area, and also has raised concerns over the troubles facing<br />
our native fishes. Siltation, habitat destruction, and pollution,<br />
as well as the introduction of non-native fishes and<br />
invertebrates, are constant threats to the darters’ natural<br />
habitats. One oil or chemical spill into a small tributary or<br />
waterway can have long-lasting effects on the fish population.<br />
Not only are the fish directly harmed, but their food<br />
source of aquatic insects is lost.<br />
In my home state of Michigan the Round Goby<br />
(Neogobius melanostomus) has spread through many of<br />
the waterways and can be easily caught by hook and line<br />
or net. This non-native invader competes with darters for<br />
habitat and food resources, and in areas of the river near<br />
my home I can catch 10 gobies to every 1 Blackside Darter.<br />
Fortunately, I have yet to find one of these gobies in the<br />
same locations where I have found and observed Rainbow<br />
Darters, so I hope that our beautiful little native fish occupies<br />
a niche not suited to these unwelcome intruders.<br />
Rainbow Darters are amazing fish with wonderful<br />
colors and fascinating behaviors, and they well deserve<br />
a place in the hobbyist’s fish room. They are very interesting<br />
to observe in the aquarium, and often appear to<br />
tilt their heads while observing their keepers, implying a<br />
level of intelligence and awareness similar to that which<br />
I’ve seen in some cichlids I have kept. I feel fortunate to<br />
live in a region inhabited by such a fish, and believe it<br />
deserves to be considered a North American jewel.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
gravel while the male fertilizes them from above. After<br />
spawning the female wriggles out of the gravel to rest.<br />
Spawning occurs repeatedly over a number of days<br />
until the female has exhausted her egg supply, which<br />
usually averages around 300 eggs, depending on the<br />
size of the female. The eggs stick together in the gravel,<br />
which is a great preventative against being swept away in<br />
the current, and are thus easily collected, either using a<br />
gravel vacuum to siphon them out of the gravel or gently<br />
swirling the gravel and removing the adhesive eggs.<br />
Rainbow Darter eggs can be hatched in a small container<br />
with an airstone and methylene blue as a fungicide.<br />
An alternative is to remove the spawning adults and<br />
let the eggs hatch out in the spawning aquarium. The<br />
eggs hatch in 10 to 14 days, depending on temperature,<br />
and the development of the young fish may be witnessed<br />
through the clear eggs, with the eyes of the developing<br />
fry being readily visible. Newly hatched darter fry can be<br />
raised on brine shrimp nauplii and other small live foods,<br />
such as microworms. I found the eggs to have a very good<br />
hatch rate, and fry survival was also good. Clean water<br />
and frequent feedings were very important to long-term<br />
fry survival.<br />
Native tankmates<br />
Other residents that I have kept in aquariums with<br />
Rainbow Darters include Iowa Darters (Etheostoma exile),<br />
Northern Redbelly Dace (Phoxinus eos), Brook Sticklebacks<br />
(Culaea inconstans), Western Blacknose Dace<br />
(Rhinichthys obtusus), and small immature Blackside<br />
Darters (Percina maculata). The Brook Sticklebacks and<br />
Iowa Darters also spawned while in the same aquarium<br />
with the Rainbow Darters. I was not concerned about<br />
cross-breeding, since the Blackside Darters were im-<br />
Ken Zeedyk has been keeping fish off and on for more than<br />
30 years. He is a fellow of the Grand Valley Aquarium Club<br />
(GVAC) in Grand Rapids, Michigan, and has bred more than<br />
120 species of freshwater fishes and invertebrates and cultured a<br />
number of aquatic plant species. Zeedyk and his family reside in<br />
Zeeland, Michigan.<br />
KEN ZEEDYK<br />
60
Exclusive North American Importer & Distributor<br />
Poret® Brand Filter Foam<br />
The famous original “Blauer Schaum” (blue foam)<br />
made by EMW Filtertechnik in Germany for<br />
freshwater, aquaculture, pond, and saltwater filtration.<br />
Perfect for the widely used Hamburg<br />
Mattenfilter (HMF), canister and hang-on-back (HOB)<br />
filters, and sumps. Guaranteed free of toxic chemicals.<br />
Long lifespan and low maintenance.<br />
Available in porosities of 10-45 pores per inch (PPI) in<br />
various colors. As filter cartridges, cubefilters, and sheets.<br />
B&H Jetlifters TM<br />
The most efficient airlift tubes on the market.<br />
Explore our expanded selection.<br />
Innovation with simplicity that t works<br />
Wholesale & Retail<br />
Email: SwissTropicals@gmail.com<br />
www.SwissTropicals.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
AZON<br />
61
HUSBANDRY<br />
& BREEDING<br />
Triops<br />
Tadpole shrimp in the aquarium<br />
Above: An adult<br />
specimen of Triops<br />
cancriformis<br />
cancriformis from<br />
Spain. This local<br />
variant is lighter<br />
colored than those<br />
often seen for sale.<br />
by Timm Adam They have been shunned for many years by serious aquarists, but<br />
there is now growing interest in a group of freshwater invertebrates with unbroken<br />
living links to the age of the dinosaurs: the tadpole or shield shrimp of the genera<br />
Triops and Lepidurus. In addition to Triops longicaudatus, which has been sold in<br />
toy stores and natural history supply houses (sometimes as “Dinosaur Shrimp” or<br />
“Microsaurs”) for many decades, several other species, subspecies, and morphs have<br />
become available. For aquarists ready to try something totally new—and yet absolutely<br />
ancient—here is an introduction to these fascinating primordial crustaceans.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
One fact alone justifies the fascination with tadpole<br />
shrimp: Triops cancriformis has been around almost<br />
unchanged for about 220 million years, as seen in many<br />
fossil images circulating on the Internet. The fossil species<br />
was described as a subspecies of Triops cancriformis,<br />
namely Triops cancriformis minor.<br />
Triops can be kept and observed with relatively little<br />
effort over very long periods of time. Even “rest periods”<br />
of dormancy for years or decades are tolerated by<br />
this crustacean. What fish species could endure such a<br />
lifestyle Even among freshwater inverts you won’t find<br />
many that would tolerate such treatment.<br />
One fact must be noted: not all Triops are made<br />
equal. Their habitats are as variable as their ways of life,<br />
so their care requirements vary as well. The three commonly<br />
available hobby strains—Triops longicaudatus from<br />
the U.S. (I call it the “toy-store strain”), T. cancriformis<br />
cancriformis from a biotope on the river March in Austria<br />
(distributed by Dr. Erich Eder), and Triops cf. newberryi<br />
from Queensland, Australia (a strain distributed by Billabong<br />
Bugs)—might be maintained indefinitely under very<br />
simple conditions. With other strains, it can be difficult<br />
to establish a stable population in the aquarium for long<br />
periods of time.<br />
Legs for every purpose<br />
Triops are “basic” crustaceans and do everything—breathing,<br />
moving, digging, and feeding—with their specialized<br />
legs. Their curious movements—flips, rollovers, body<br />
curls, swimming belly side up—make them fascinating to<br />
watch, all thanks to the power of their appendages. Even<br />
the cysts for their reproduction are stored in a pouch<br />
T. ADAM<br />
62
Right: Typical habitat of Triops in Australia. The top<br />
picture was taken in June when the depression was filled<br />
with water. The bottom picture shows the same biotope<br />
in April of the following year, during the dry season.<br />
on the 11th pair of legs, which is adapted for<br />
this purpose. Up to 70 pairs of legs and 44 body<br />
segments are seen in tadpole shrimp. On the<br />
first 12 body segments there are only one pair of<br />
legs each, while further back there can be up to<br />
10 pairs per segment, and the last few segments<br />
usually have no legs.<br />
Crustaceans have mandibles as mouthparts<br />
to chew food and two pairs of antennae. These<br />
two characteristics are sufficient to differentiate<br />
the tadpole shrimp from the Xiphosura or horseshoe<br />
crabs, which have a similar appearance.<br />
However, the four surviving species of the<br />
family Limulidae belong to the Chelicerata (spiders,<br />
scorpions, and sea spiders) and have chelicerae<br />
as mouthparts and no antennae.<br />
The genus name Triops stems from the three<br />
eyes found at the front of the carapace, or shield.<br />
The two larger ones are complex eyes; the middle<br />
one is a so-called nauplia eye. Interestingly, the<br />
eye design may permit the animal to detect light<br />
coming from below. Also worth mentioning<br />
is the oxygen-transporting hemoglobin that is<br />
dissolved in the hemolymph (blood analog of arthropods)<br />
of Triops. The intense red color often<br />
observed in Triops longicaudatus in the aquarium<br />
is due to this protein.<br />
Heterosexuals, hermaphrodites,<br />
and virgins<br />
The main survival advantage of Triops is their<br />
efficient reproduction. Many populations consist entirely<br />
of hermaphrodites (organisms that have both male and<br />
female reproductive organs in the same individual) or<br />
females that reproduce by parthenogenesis (development<br />
of an embryo from an unfertilized egg cell). In Triops<br />
longicaudatus it was observed that 594 cysts were deposited<br />
within 72 hours (Gruner 1993). I have to assume<br />
similarly high numbers in other Triops strains that reproduce<br />
by parthenogenesis or through self-fertilization.<br />
For example, two to three days after adding water to an<br />
aquarium of about 32 gallons (115 L), myriad nauplius<br />
larvae and molded instar stages of Triops cancriformis cancriformis<br />
were observed. In Triops cf. newberryi from Australia,<br />
within 24 hours after adding water to a dry tank<br />
with resting cysts, masses of larvae hatched. It is possible<br />
to raise 40 of these up to a size of 2 inches (5 cm) in a<br />
15-gallon (55-L) aquarium within a week’s time.<br />
Reproduction in captivity is usually less productive<br />
in available Triops species and strains, which propagate<br />
conventionally via two sexes and copulation. With Triops<br />
B. TIMMS<br />
australiensis australiensis and T. granarius, I have never<br />
encountered as many hatching larvae in the first three<br />
filial generations as with the species above. However,<br />
they seem to reproduce at a high rate in nature as well,<br />
given the larger expanses of available habitat. In the wild,<br />
there are lots of developing animals present and therefore<br />
always plenty of sexual partners, which might represent a<br />
bottleneck in captivity.<br />
In summary, Triops possess all the possible reproductive<br />
strategies known to science: sexual (gonochoric, or<br />
one sex per individual), self-fertilization in hermaphrodites,<br />
and parthenogenesis of females. Moreover, all three<br />
strategies may be observed within one species in biotopes<br />
found in the same region (Garcia-Velazco 2009).<br />
Glass or Plexiglas<br />
Glass aquariums are the most convenient way to house<br />
Triops. I used to buy 12-gallon (45-L) tank sets that measured<br />
20 inches (50 cm) long, 12 inches (30 cm) wide,<br />
and 12 inches (30 cm) high. For some years now, the<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
63
AMAZONAS<br />
Large specimen of Triops cancriformis<br />
cancriformis. This animal stems from a strain<br />
distributed by Dr. Erich Eder from the river<br />
March, near Angern, Austria.<br />
On this recently deceased adult Triops<br />
australiensis australiensis the cysts are<br />
visible through the egg sacs.<br />
12-gallon kits have not been available and I have started<br />
to convert to the 15-gallon (55-L), 24-inch (60-cm)<br />
starter sets (24 x 12 x 12 inches/60 x 30 x 30 cm). These<br />
kits have the advantage that they are relatively inexpensive<br />
and include a hood with a light and a heater. Individually<br />
purchased, the components would cost more.<br />
The internal filters included in these kits are not suitable<br />
for Triops husbandry, but will certainly find another application<br />
in the fish room. As for the size of the tanks,<br />
I can only reiterate that bigger is better, especially with<br />
regard to the footprint; however, since most readers will<br />
work with standard tanks, the footprint is fixed. Instead<br />
of tanks, other glass containers can serve as Triops habitats:<br />
for example, large vases or bowls, or plastic containers<br />
of various kinds. However, in many plastic vessels,<br />
the long-term care of Triops fails. This might be due to<br />
softeners or other chemicals that are added to some plastics<br />
and affect the Triops negatively. I have had luck so far<br />
with mortar buckets, the familiar Exo Terra Faunarium<br />
(plastic terrarium), and fauna boxes from Hagen.<br />
As a substrate I use common aquarium sand with<br />
the finest particle size. With my first<br />
strain of T. cancriformis cancriformis<br />
I used soil from the garden, which is<br />
rich in clay and sand. However, for a<br />
first trial, I now recommend a clean<br />
substrate without too many fine particles,<br />
which tend to cloud the water<br />
and make it difficult to observe the<br />
animals. Once a population flourishes,<br />
you can experiment with various<br />
sand types or other natural substrates.<br />
Salt or no salt<br />
Distilled water, commercially available<br />
from the supermarket or hardware<br />
store, is the best option for starting a<br />
culture of Triops. This guarantees a high hatch rate, and<br />
you can be assured that there are no toxic elements or<br />
microorganisms present. Once a culture is performing<br />
well, you can experiment with other water sources, such<br />
as rainwater, filtered pond water, or even tap water if it<br />
contains no heavy metals or chlorine or if you have used<br />
a water conditioner.<br />
To start a culture with a new Triops strain, it is<br />
helpful to research the water conditions in that strain’s<br />
natural biotope. Some populations apparently tolerate<br />
or even require various salts and trace elements in their<br />
water (not only sodium chloride). From the island of<br />
Malta there is a population of Triops cancriformis known<br />
to live in brackish water (Lanfrano et al. 1991). If you attempt<br />
to hatch cysts from such habitats in distilled water,<br />
failure is certain. However, for the “toy strain” of Triops<br />
longicaudatus, Triops cancriformis cancriformis from Central<br />
Europe, and Triops cf. newberryi from Queensland, I<br />
recommend starting the culture with distilled water.<br />
Not made for short days<br />
Shrimp of the genus Triops require about 12 hours of daylight<br />
to develop. Thus, unless you keep them only during<br />
the spring or summer outside or near a window, artificial<br />
lighting must be provided. A timer is recommended. For<br />
a light source, all ordinary fluorescent, halogen, LED, and<br />
incandescent light bulbs will work. The water temperature<br />
should be close to that found in the natural biotope.<br />
Triops cancriformis cancriformis requires about 59°F<br />
(15°C) to hatch and adults tolerate even lower water<br />
temperatures. Triops longicaudatus develops best between<br />
room temperature and up to 77°F (25°C). Triops cf.<br />
newberryi from Queensland is best kept at 84°F (29°C),<br />
and with good nutrition reaches a size of 2.5 inches (6<br />
cm) within 10 days. Since these animals are very tolerant<br />
in terms of temperature, 77°F (25°C) or warmer is<br />
sufficient. Longhurst (1955) kept and reproduced Triops<br />
australiensis, T. cancriformis, T. granarius, and T. longicaudatus,<br />
as well as Lepidurus apus and L. arcticus, at 68°F<br />
(20°C).<br />
T. ADAM<br />
64
Aeration of the tank can be<br />
achieved by using an air stone connected<br />
to a small air pump, but a<br />
sponge filter connected to a medium<br />
sized air pump maintains better<br />
water quality.<br />
Omnivores<br />
I have found that for almost every<br />
strain of tadpole shrimp, ordinary<br />
flake food is suitable. For the first<br />
larval stages, small feed that contains<br />
Spirulina algae and animal ingredients<br />
normally used for fish larvae<br />
or to culture baby brine shrimp has<br />
worked well. Larvae in larger stages<br />
will consume almost anything: dried<br />
fallen tree leaves, vegetables, silkworm casings, fish food<br />
tablets, and live foods such as Artemia, Daphnia, and<br />
bloodworms, to name just a few.<br />
Since Triops are true omnivores, they will also consume<br />
live plants; therefore, it is difficult to maintain a<br />
planted tank with tadpole shrimp in it for long. However,<br />
there is one plant that works well for the Triops aquarium:<br />
duckweed, Lemna minor. Although the duckweed is eaten,<br />
the plant’s fast growth rate permits its survival and it<br />
helps absorb excess nutrients from the water.<br />
As in fish aquariums, any decorations should be carefully<br />
assessed for toxic substances. Many plastics appear<br />
to release toxins, to which these shrimp are very sensitive.<br />
However, natural driftwood such as that used for<br />
fish tanks is very suitable. Various natural stones can be<br />
used to add structure and replicate natural biotopes.<br />
Keeping Triops with other animals is a challenge; one<br />
should not forget that they will eat any smaller animal<br />
and even each other. Conversely, larger company might<br />
regard the Triops as food. Fish are generally unsuitable<br />
as tankmates, but various snails are perfect because<br />
they are common in the natural habitats. In nature-like<br />
biotopes of Triops cancriformis cancriformis the great pond<br />
snail Lymnaea stagnalis, and possibly other snails, can be<br />
found. In one of my larger aquariums, the water louse<br />
Asellus aquaticus lives together<br />
with Triops cancriformis.<br />
This cyst-laying individual probably<br />
belongs to a form of Triops newberryi.<br />
tilled water, we wait until the temperature has stabilized<br />
where we want it to be. Then we can add the cysts or<br />
the sand containing the cysts. With Triops longicaudatus,<br />
T. newberryi, T. australiensis, and T. granarius the first<br />
hatched nauplii are found within 24 hours; Triops cancriformis<br />
might require a little more time.<br />
Pair of Triops granarius from Japan. The sexing<br />
is straightforward: the male (right)<br />
has a rounder shield and is<br />
brighter and more uniformly<br />
colored than the female.<br />
T. ADAM<br />
Seasonal shrimp<br />
I would like to report how I<br />
have achieved the best success<br />
in terms of the number<br />
and size of adults I was able<br />
to raise. An aquarium of at<br />
least 10 gallons (38 L) is first<br />
equipped with 6–10 pounds<br />
(3–5 kg) of aquarium sand, a<br />
light with timer, and a heater,<br />
if necessary. After adding dis-<br />
An adult male of a variant of Triops longicaudatus<br />
from the U.S. This strain has a high male to<br />
female ratio.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
65
AMAZONAS<br />
The first nauplius stage does not forage for food.<br />
Consequently, it is better to wait on feeding until after<br />
the first molt. Finely powdered food works well for brine<br />
shrimp or baby fishes, but it is only required for a short<br />
time as these shrimp grow very fast. After a few days,<br />
ground flake food can be used. Given that the Triops tank<br />
usually has no filtration other than a sponge filter, the<br />
water quality must be maintained by balancing careful<br />
feeding with regular water changes.<br />
The amounts of food are difficult to specify, since<br />
it depends on the number of hatched animals you are<br />
keeping and the size of the tank. It is best to feed in small<br />
amounts several times a day. After all the shrimp have<br />
grown up, spawned, and died off and no more shrimp are<br />
hatching, I usually wait for two weeks and then drain the<br />
An electron micrograph of a broken cyst of Triops<br />
longicaudatus illustrates the inner structure of the shell.<br />
tank. Simply leave the tank in its place and let it totally<br />
dry up. About two months after the tank has completely<br />
dried out and the cysts have been dormant, the next<br />
generation can be hatched out by adding water again. It<br />
is wise to set aside a large batch of sand from the tank<br />
beforehand, so that if something goes wrong you will<br />
have some cysts in reserve for another attempt.<br />
After growing several generations successfully in the<br />
same tank, it is time to experiment. Split the substrate into<br />
various tanks and containers, place them in multiple locations,<br />
and use different water temperatures and conditions<br />
and evaluate the best circumstances in your setting.<br />
Species and strains<br />
Triops cancriformis cancriformis (Bosc 1801) is a European<br />
species that was distributed for many years by Dr. Erich<br />
Eder. The original animals or cysts came from a biotope<br />
on the river March near Angern, Austria, that was later<br />
filled in. Offspring of this strain are kept by many hobbyists<br />
and are widely available online.<br />
Triops cancriformis simplex (Ghigi 1921) and T. cancriformis<br />
mauritanicus (Ghigi 1921) are kept by scientists<br />
and a few hobby breeders. Korn et al. (2006) argued in<br />
their publication that T. mauritanicus should be considered<br />
a valid species rather than a subspecies of cancriformis,<br />
because it is genetically distinct from T. cancriformis<br />
cancriformis.<br />
Triops longicaudatus (LeConte 1846) is distributed<br />
worldwide by Toyops, a U.S. company. Aside from that<br />
strain, whose origin I was not able to pin down, I have a<br />
population from Kansas, a gonochoric variant (reproducing<br />
sexually) also from Kansas, plus another form from<br />
Japan that differs morphologically.<br />
One often reads that T. longicaudatus is not a valid<br />
species, which is not true. It has become clear that there<br />
are likely several subspecies of T. longicaudatus in the U.S.<br />
It is possible that companies or individuals in the U.S.<br />
have accidentally mixed several populations and then<br />
distributed them. Hybrids may also have resulted from<br />
accidental contamination by moving sand or soil around<br />
the country.<br />
In his revision of the genus, Longhurst (1955) differentiated<br />
two subspecies, Triops longicaudatus longicaudatus<br />
and T. longicaudatus intermedius. However, his work was<br />
virtually ignored in subsequent years. T. longicaudatus was<br />
unquestionably described by LeConte in 1846. Whether<br />
the animals we keep at the moment belong to this species<br />
or should be differentiated into multiple species or<br />
subspecies is another question.<br />
Triops australiensis australiensis (Spencer and Hall<br />
1895) is not very commonly available. Animals of this<br />
strain, which indeed originated from Queensland in Australia,<br />
are very closely related or even genetically identical<br />
to Triops newberryi from the U.S. How this was possible<br />
might never be fully explained. I keep three different strains<br />
of T. australiensis australiensis. But like other sexually<br />
reproducing forms in captivity, their continued maintenance<br />
can fail easily. Triops australiensis australiensis faces<br />
the same dilemma as T. longicaudatus: all known populations<br />
were labeled as or determined to be T. australiensis<br />
australiensis, but it is a fact that there are several forms of<br />
Triops in Australia that differ from each other, morphologically<br />
as well as genetically.<br />
Triops granarius (Lucas 1864) became available<br />
only recently. The strain originates from a population<br />
in Japan. This species reproduces only sexually. What<br />
are missing in Europe are strains of T. granarius from<br />
Africa, since this species evidently occurs both in Asia<br />
and Africa, as Triops numidicus is now a synonym of T.<br />
granarius, therefore no longer a valid species (Korn and<br />
Hundsdoerfer 2006).<br />
Triops newberryi (Packard 1871) from the U.S. is<br />
firmly established in the hobby. Maintenance of this species<br />
is as easy as that of T. longicaudatus.<br />
Triops australiensis sakalavus (Nobili 1905) from Mad-<br />
F. SCHNEIDER<br />
66
agascar seems to have vanished from captivity; neither<br />
scientists nor hobbyists have reported them in a while.<br />
In summary, a revision of the genus Triops is long<br />
overdue. New genetic insights show that the current<br />
classification of species and subspecies should be reevaluated.<br />
It can be argued that the diversity of Triops is greater<br />
than has been assumed so far. But given the lack of a<br />
unanimous opinion among scientists, it is not surprising<br />
that the situation in the hobby is even more problematic.<br />
Most amateurs are not familiar with the details about<br />
systematics and evolution and even less familiar with<br />
genetics. However, each Triops enthusiast has a responsibility<br />
to follow certain guidelines.<br />
An appeal<br />
Please, never mix strains from various locations, even<br />
if you think they are the same species. When you trade<br />
cysts, always accompany them with all the information<br />
you have, including detailed location names or GPS data<br />
(not just the country), date of collection of the animals<br />
or cysts, who collected them, and who has determined the<br />
species. And, most important, never discard substrate that<br />
might contain cysts of Triops outside, since they could<br />
become established outside their natural range!<br />
Acknowledgments: I would like to thank a few people who<br />
have supported and facilitated my personal exploration of the<br />
tadpole shrimps: Dr. Erich Eder, Claus Wurst, Christoph<br />
Seiler, and Michael Korn. Special thanks to Dr. Brian Timms<br />
for everything he shared with me and to Don Dasis for trading<br />
many strains of Triops and Lepidurus. I thank my wife,<br />
Sabine Adam, for her patience with my many tanks and her<br />
ongoing support of my hobby.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
Eder, E. 1999. Rote Liste der Rückenschaler Kärntens. Rote Listen<br />
gefährdeter Tiere Kärntens. Naturschutz in Kärnten 15: 535–38.<br />
Garcia-Velazco, H. et al. 2009. Reproduction of the Tadpole Shrimp Triops<br />
(Notostraca) in Mexican Waters. Curr Sci 96 (1): 91–97.<br />
Gruner, H.E. 1993. Lehrbuch der Speziellen Zoologie, Band I, Wirbellose<br />
Tiere, Teil 4: Arthropoda (ohne Insecta). G. Fischer, Jena, Stuttgart, New<br />
York.<br />
Kelber, K.-P. 1999. Triops cancriformis (Crustacea, Notostraca): Ein<br />
bemerkenswertes Fossil aus der Trias Mitteleuropas. In: Hauschke, N.,<br />
and V. Wilde (eds), Trias, Eine ganz andere Welt, Mitteleuropa im frühen<br />
Erdmittelalter, pp. 81–104. Dr. Friedrich Pfeil, München, Germany.<br />
Korn, M. et al. 2006. Sister species within the Triops cancriformis lineage<br />
(Crustacea, Notostraca). Zool Scripta 35: 301–22.<br />
Korn, M., and A.K. Hundsdoerfer. 2006. Evidence for cryptic species in the<br />
tadpole shrimp Triops granarius (Lucas, 1864) (Crustacea: Notostraca).<br />
Zootaxa 1257: 57–68.<br />
Lanfrano, S., C. De Walsche, P. Schembri, and J. Mertens. 1991.<br />
Branchiopods (non-cladocerans) of the Maltese Islands (central<br />
Mediterranean). Hydrobiologia 212: 241–43.<br />
Longhurst, A.R. 1955. A Review of the Notostraca. Bull Brit Mus Nat Hist<br />
3: 1–57.<br />
Murugan, G., H. Obregón-Barboza, A.M. Maeda-Martínez, and B. Timms.<br />
2009. Co-occurrence of two tadpole shrimp, Triops cf. australiensis<br />
(Branchiopoda: Notostraca), lineages in middle Paroo, northwestern<br />
New South Wales, with the first record of Triops hermaphrodites for the<br />
Australian continent. Aust J Zool 57: 77–84.<br />
Williams, W.D. 1980. Australian Freshwater Life: The Invertebrates of<br />
Australian Inland Waters. Macmillan, Melbourne, Australia.<br />
ON THE INTERNET<br />
www.urzeitkrebse.at (in German; English translation available).<br />
SOURCES<br />
http://www.toyops.com<br />
http://thetriopsforum.com<br />
An attempt to reproduce the habitat for two newly discovered Triops forms<br />
from Australia. The original habitat is known as Marsilea Pond; accordingly,<br />
water clover of the genus Marsilea was planted. During the rainy season,<br />
Marsilea Pond is apparently almost completely covered with it.<br />
T. ADAM<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
67
AQUATIC<br />
PLANTS<br />
Shedding new light<br />
on a planted aquarium<br />
It was November 2011. I had an empty wall<br />
space in my basement fish room—a luxury that stimulates the imagination of every aquarist.<br />
Should I install shelves for breeding, a few medium-sized tanks, or a container pond I chose a<br />
big tank with a large footprint—over 7 feet long (220 cm). But how should I light it<br />
The support for the tank was built with bricks and mortar, with space for a<br />
filter sump and a 60-gallon (240-L) grow-out tank. Everything went according<br />
to plan, but the last step—the lights—caused some headaches. How could I<br />
illuminate such a large tank in a way that was both cost-effective and visually<br />
pleasing With the usual T8 or T5 fluorescent bulbs, or with the newest technology—LED<br />
Opinions about LEDs are still all over the map. Some balk at the higher<br />
purchase price, others consider the light “weird” or unfamiliar. And the technology,<br />
everyone agrees, may not have fully matured yet. Knowing all this did<br />
not help with my decision; I was tempted to try LED lighting for the first time,<br />
but unsure if I should take the plunge.<br />
Finally, thanks to my friend Hans-Georg Evers, I came into contact with<br />
Lars Fehlandt and his company, ECONLUX. I told<br />
Lars about my tank, the intended fish stock (my primary<br />
passion: rainbowfishes that would thrive with<br />
all that swimming room), and the many plants.<br />
My intention was to make the tank an eyecatcher<br />
with attractive planted aquascaping, which,<br />
I realized, would take time. I wanted to document<br />
the plant growth and gather experience with LEDs<br />
over a long period of time, then report on my results.<br />
Practical reports with the actual experiences<br />
of real aquarists happen to appeal to me much<br />
more than theoretical discourses on the science of<br />
new aquarium technologies with impressive but,<br />
unfortunately, often unhelpful technical details.<br />
For me this big tank, with a volume of more than<br />
1,000 liters (280 gallons) and a footprint of 220 x<br />
80 x 60 cm (87 x 32 x 24 inches), was a chance to<br />
experiment and see the results first-hand.<br />
Opposite page, top: The aquarium<br />
shortly after the initial planting in<br />
November 2011.<br />
Middle: Four months later, the fastgrowing<br />
stem plants were growing well,<br />
but because of the fish waste, the first<br />
algae problems began.<br />
Bottom: By the summer of 2012, seven<br />
months later, the aquarium had become<br />
a real jewel. The algae were gone, and<br />
in addition to the stem plants, rosette<br />
plants were starting to enhance the look.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Pendant lights and strips<br />
After a flurry of phone calls and emails, Lars<br />
Fehlandt sent me a long-awaited package containing<br />
three pendant spotlights, each with an<br />
LED-universal module (25 w, 6,500 Kelvin) and<br />
a reflector set (36°). In addition, there were four<br />
68
AMAZONAS<br />
69
Revolutionary<br />
Lighting<br />
Technology<br />
XR30w<br />
Radion TM<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Optimized Reflector Design<br />
Channels 95% of emitted<br />
light to maximize energy<br />
efficiency. LEDs manufactured<br />
by Cree and Osram.<br />
Broad Light Distribution<br />
One Radion will provide optimum<br />
lighting for around 40 gallons<br />
(150 liters) of tank volume.<br />
Simple Interface<br />
Super-easy three-button<br />
controllability on the fixture.<br />
Graphic-driven PC interface<br />
after USB connect for<br />
advanced functionality.<br />
INTENSITY<br />
Customizable Spectrum<br />
Full-spectrum output allows<br />
significant PAR peaks to be<br />
targeted. Five-channel color<br />
adjustment enables custom<br />
spectrum choice based on<br />
aesthetic or photosynthetic<br />
requirements.<br />
EcoSmart TM Enabled<br />
RF wireless communication<br />
between Radion fixtures<br />
and EcoSmart-equipped<br />
VorTech Pumps.<br />
www.ecotechmarine.com<br />
®<br />
44-inch (110-cm) LED SunStrips in the light-color<br />
“Plant-Coral” (each 22 w). The pendants were hung<br />
with chains over the tank, along the center line.<br />
The chains make it possible to change the height of<br />
the lights. Pairs of connected SunStrips were placed<br />
directly on the glass covers on the front and back<br />
of the tank. According to Lars, the expert, an open<br />
tank with free-hanging lights would be better, since<br />
the 4-mm glass reflects some of the light. However, with rainbowfishes that<br />
chase every fly and can be jumpy, an uncovered tank was not an option. The<br />
aquarium was decorated with brown gravel and an initial planting of fastgrowing<br />
plants. I left out<br />
a substrate fertilizer, but<br />
I opted for a CO 2 dosing<br />
system.<br />
Well, as it is with any<br />
freshly set up aquarium, I<br />
was pleased to see the first<br />
new leaves of Hygrophila<br />
and other plants. Great, it<br />
was starting to grow!<br />
But after a short<br />
while, the first filamentous<br />
green algae on some<br />
of the leaves proclaimed<br />
an approaching nightmare.<br />
Unfortunately, they<br />
kept expanding, but a<br />
troop of about 30 Otocinclus<br />
dwarf suckermouth<br />
catfishes, aided by manual<br />
removal, got this problem<br />
under control. Then<br />
I began gently fertilizing<br />
with iron and potassium,<br />
and the plants started to<br />
grow stronger and more<br />
vigorous.<br />
Above: Small catfishes<br />
of the genus Otocinclus<br />
kept slow-growing plants<br />
like Anubias barteri var.<br />
nana and the Java fern<br />
Microsorum pteropus<br />
“Windeløv” free of algae.<br />
With pendant LED units emphasizing certain areas, the<br />
aquarium looked as if rays of sun were penetrating the<br />
water’s surface.<br />
70
RadionTM<br />
Sleek. Sophisticated. High-tech. Beautiful.<br />
The new Radion Lighting features 34 energy-effi cient LEDs with fi ve color families.<br />
Improved growth. Wider coverage. Better energy effi ciency. Customizable spectral output.<br />
In short, a healthier, more beautiful ecosystem.<br />
EcoTech Marine. Revolutionizing the way people think about aquarium technology.<br />
®<br />
www.ecotechmarine.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
71
The LED strips simply rest<br />
on top of the glass cover.<br />
Fast-growing plants<br />
such as Ceratopteris<br />
and Hygrophila<br />
developed a pleasingly<br />
compact look with<br />
sufficient fertilization.<br />
Natural light effects<br />
Back to the lighting: it is fantastic to see how the combination of strong surface movement<br />
and spotlights create light wave effects known as “glitter lines” that are reflected on the plants<br />
and substrate. The whole display appears very natural. There are, I admit, moments when I pay<br />
more attention to the ever-changing random play of light reflections than to the colors of the<br />
rainbowfishes.<br />
Under the LED lights the plants look different and, I think, more natural. Hygrophila<br />
corymbosa shows pink to reddish shoots. Limnophila sessiliflora keeps a compact growth with<br />
short internodes, even when growing right under the strips. And the Java Fern variety “Windeløv”<br />
is a lush green. In my opinion, which has been reinforced by friends when they see the<br />
system, the overall appearance of the fishes and plants under the LED lighting is really attractive.<br />
Despite my earlier doubts about all the unknowns, I am very happy with it.<br />
This report was written in August 2012, when the last pictures were taken. I set up the<br />
aquarium almost a year ago. I am currently regrouping the plants and replacing some of them<br />
with more red-leaved and decorative species.<br />
A section of Lobelia cardinalis (“Cardinal<br />
Flower”) with its deep purple colors is<br />
planned as well. I hope to report again in<br />
these pages at a later time to document the<br />
results—with more images.<br />
If I were making the decision today,<br />
I would use LEDs again; I like the optical<br />
impression they create better than the one<br />
created by the fluorescent tubes I have used<br />
in the past. I know there are those who favor<br />
the look of fluorescent or metal halide lights,<br />
but I can well imagine switching additional,<br />
smaller tanks to LEDs.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Comparison<br />
The aquarium is lit by four 22-watt strips and<br />
three 25-watt LED spots, a total of 163 watts.<br />
To sufficiently illuminate an area of 88 x 32<br />
inches and 24 inches deep (220 x 80 x 60<br />
cm), six or maybe even eight 24-inch (100-<br />
72
cm) light strips would be required. Using T8 bulbs, that would be 180–240 watts, and<br />
using high-output T5 bulbs it would be 240–320 watts. If I had worked with fluorescent<br />
T8 or T5 bulbs I would have used four rows of two bulbs, eight bulbs in total. With that<br />
setup, the electrical usage would be significantly higher. Add to that the factor of lifespan:<br />
fluorescent tubes should be replaced at least every other year (some people change them<br />
out annually), while LEDs last much longer. Manufacturers are boasting of a full five<br />
years for LED emitters, but we shall see how that works out with all the aquarists now<br />
starting to try LEDs. On the other hand, LEDs cost more to begin with.<br />
However, I don’t want to do a cost-benefit calculation here; that is a matter for<br />
another report. Economy counts, but most of us want healthy, thriving plants and fishes<br />
most of all, and in my case, I am seeing it with my own eyes.<br />
Above, left: Less lighthungry<br />
plants, such as these<br />
Cryptocoryne affinis, were<br />
planted in the corners and<br />
along the edges of the tank.<br />
Right: Red-leaved water<br />
plants grew equally well—a<br />
sign of sufficiently strong<br />
illumination.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
73
HUSBANDRY<br />
& BREEDING<br />
After spawning, the female<br />
guards a mass of yellow eggs<br />
until they hatch.<br />
Breeding success with the<br />
Pac-Man Catfish, Lophiosilurus alexandri<br />
by Ivan Chang The frogmouth catfishes of the Asian genus Chaca are known to many<br />
hobbyists due to their unusual body shape and behaviors. Only a few specialists know that in<br />
eastern Brazil there lives a catfish species that appears very similar but gets considerably larger. A<br />
handful of aquarists have successfully bred the Pac-Man Catfish, Lophiosilurus alexandri, which<br />
is capable of reaching a length of more than 28 inches (72 cm) and a weight of 11 pounds<br />
(5 kg) in the wild.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
This particular catfish is very special. With its flat body, the<br />
tiny eyes on top of its head, and its huge mouth, Lophiosilurus<br />
alexandri is destined for aficionados of the extraordinary.<br />
The beige-colored body, with its numerous small<br />
brown spots, is usually hidden—buried in fine sand. Only<br />
the eyes and the upper rim of the mouth are visible.<br />
This ambush predator waits, buried, until a shrimp or<br />
a suitable fish swims by, then rapidly opens its large<br />
mouth to inhale the victim in one quick gulp.<br />
Lophiosilurus alexandri lives in eastern Brazil in<br />
the drainage of the Rio São Francisco. Specimens<br />
have also been found much further south, in the<br />
drainage of the Rio Doce in the state of Espirito<br />
Santo. It appears that the species was released there<br />
with the intention of establishing it as a food fish—<br />
not surprisingly, given its size and a reputation for<br />
having fine-tasting flesh.<br />
However, I was more interested in keeping these<br />
catfish in the aquarium to attempt their propagation. I<br />
eagerly studied the reports of a Japanese aquarist, who<br />
apparently was the first to succeed in spawning these<br />
animals in captivity. Delighted to find a few specimens<br />
About 50<br />
of the eggs<br />
in the first<br />
clutch<br />
were not<br />
fertilized.<br />
74
Right: The Giant Raphael Catfish,<br />
Megalodoras uranoscopus, is a suitable<br />
tankmate for the Pac-Man Catfish, since it<br />
reaches over 2 feet (60–70 cm) in length<br />
as well.<br />
that were imported to Taiwan, I<br />
purchased them and raised them for<br />
more than five years. By that time,<br />
the male had reached 25 inches<br />
(63 cm) and the somewhat smaller<br />
female was 22 inches (55 cm) in<br />
length.<br />
Courtship display<br />
One day, I started to observe an<br />
interesting behavior in my Pac-Man<br />
Catfish. When the smaller female<br />
approached the male, she began to<br />
tremble, displaying with her whole<br />
body. It almost looked as if there<br />
were waves traveling along her large,<br />
soft, fleshy body. Each wave lasted between two and five<br />
seconds. These short signals prompted the male to respond<br />
in a similar manner. It was always the female who<br />
initiated this behavior, which I interpreted as a courtship<br />
display. The display lasted up to two days and afterwards I<br />
usually found eggs.<br />
According to my observations, spawning always happened<br />
in the morning. Most pairings occurred between<br />
7 and 8 A.M., and occasionally later, up until noon. I<br />
have never seen any reproductive activity outside of that<br />
time frame. On the evening before a spawn the fish were<br />
unusually active, and the trembling became more frequent.<br />
While they appeared to be aware of the presence<br />
of their keeper, they were not disturbed by it. The female<br />
excavated a spawning pit by shifting her body sideways<br />
in the substrate; the male circled the pit and guarded the<br />
vicinity. The female stayed in the pit to dig deeper and<br />
select a spot for the eggs. An established pit was usually<br />
selected again in later attempts. Often, the sand was<br />
removed down to the bare glass bottom, where the eggs<br />
were deposited.<br />
OPPOSITE PAGE: I. CHANG; THIS PAGE: H.-G. EVERS<br />
Sticky eggs<br />
When the pit was ready, spawning followed the next<br />
morning. The female laid golden-yellow, 2-mm eggs that<br />
swelled quickly and were soon enclosed in 1-mm jelly<br />
casings. The eggs were very sticky and adhered to each<br />
other. The male carefully moved over the clutch and<br />
fertilized the eggs. During the act, his pectorals trembled<br />
in a wavy pattern. The whole spawning event took about<br />
10–15 minutes, during which some 100 to 300 eggs were<br />
laid. Viable eggs remained yellow; unfertilized eggs turned<br />
white after two to four hours.<br />
For the next two to three days, the female guarded<br />
the clutch. Most of the time she lay directly on top of<br />
the eggs, but she eyed the surroundings vigilantly. The<br />
eggs’ jelly-like protective casings became thinner shortly<br />
before the hatch, and finally I saw 0.2-inch (5–6-mm)<br />
larvae hatch out. The fry—relatively small compared to<br />
the adults—had black eyes, but the body and head were<br />
transparent with a huge yellow yolk sac. In the first hours<br />
after the hatch the fry were scattered around the female,<br />
but two days later they all gathered tightly and wiggled<br />
their tails. At 81°F (27°C) the larvae consumed the yolk<br />
sac within 7–10 days. They grew steadily and developed<br />
an increasingly darker pigmentation.<br />
Breeding Diary (2010)<br />
Aquarium: 48 x 24 x 24 inches (120 x 60 x 60 cm)<br />
Filter: External biofilter with supplemental aeration via a<br />
power head<br />
Lighting: Dim fluorescent tube without a timer and<br />
hence irregular light cycles<br />
Water parameters: pH 7.0–7.3<br />
Water temperature: 81–82°F (27–28°C)<br />
Water changes: One-third weekly<br />
Substrate: Dark river-gravel without sharp edges, with a<br />
particle size of about 0.2 inch (4–6 mm), which was later<br />
removed for better hygiene when rearing the fry.<br />
Food: Small live fish and thawed large shrimps every two<br />
to three days. (Use caution: don’t overfeed! To induce<br />
spawning, increase the rations.)<br />
Tankmates: Initially, another semi-adult Lophiosilurus<br />
alexandri and three Megalodoras uranoscopus. After the<br />
first signs of courtship, they were removed. At the time of<br />
the first spawning, the male was 25 inches (63 cm) total<br />
length at an age of five to six years, while the female was<br />
22 inches (55 cm) at four or five years old.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
75
The larvae two days after<br />
hatching. The body is still<br />
unpigmented and the<br />
yolk sac is very large.<br />
Seven days after hatching,<br />
the yolk sac is consumed<br />
and the small catfish start to<br />
develop their pigmentation.<br />
Now they need to be fed.<br />
March 12: Increasing activity between the adults, with<br />
first signs of the trembling courtship display. All the other<br />
occupants were removed, the substrate was replaced<br />
with fine sand, and one-fifth of the water was exchanged.<br />
March 15: The female, who was usually hiding in a corner,<br />
approached the male and the two fish often lay next<br />
to each other, now actively courting.<br />
March 17: The female began to mouth the sand in one<br />
spot, obviously cleaning it, while digging a pit. The male<br />
started to actively patrol the tank. The courtship became<br />
increasingly more intense when the animals met. This<br />
continued for another day, until the night of March 18,<br />
when the cleaning and courtship activities reached their<br />
peak. The male swam into the current from the filter<br />
return near the surface and slapped audibly with his fins.<br />
Meanwhile, the female dug the pit all the way down to<br />
the glass bottom.<br />
March 19: Around 11 in the morning, the fish spawned.<br />
Afterwards, the female guarded about 200 eggs in the<br />
pit. The male retreated into another corner to relax. The<br />
female lay directly on the eggs and fanned them with her<br />
large fins to supply fresh water and oxygen. Some 50 eggs<br />
were not fertilized and turned white.<br />
March 20: To be on the safe side, I removed the developing<br />
eggs to hatch them separately. I left subsequent<br />
clutches in the care of the parents, who cared for them<br />
quite reliably. I filled the 15-gallon (54-L) rearing tank<br />
with water from the breeding aquarium. A large airstone<br />
supplied oxygen, but I used no filter.<br />
March 22: The larvae began to hatch in the morning and<br />
When fed, the fry swim enthusiastically<br />
through the tank and gorge themselves<br />
on baby brine shrimps.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
I. CHANG<br />
76
At a size of a bit over an inch (3 cm), the juveniles show a<br />
black banding pattern that later disappears. At this size,<br />
they consume copious quantities of bloodworms.<br />
by 4 P.M. all had hatched. A total of about 120 larvae survived<br />
and were scattered all around the tank with their<br />
large yolk sacs. Because I was afraid to induce too much<br />
stress, I refrained from performing a water change.<br />
March 24: A large number of fry were dead in the morning<br />
and I quickly changed some water to save the rest. Unfortunately,<br />
all the remaining fry died by the next day. I assumed<br />
that the water quality had become too poor and that I<br />
might need to lower the pH. Thus, I removed the substrate<br />
from the breeding tank and replaced it with pH-neutral<br />
black hematite, as shown in the first picture.<br />
March 27: The pair spawned again. With about 160<br />
eggs the clutch was smaller than the first. The pH<br />
was around 7.1 at 82°F (28°C).<br />
March 29: I transferred the eggs to the rearing tank,<br />
where they began to hatch within hours, resulting in<br />
about 100 hatchlings.<br />
March 31: When they were about 0.25 inch (7 mm)<br />
long, the fry’s pigmentation started to develop. The<br />
yolk sacs were still large but decreasing in size. I<br />
changed 10 percent of the water every other day, and<br />
in addition to the airstone, I installed a small filter.<br />
The pH was stable at 7.1.<br />
April 3: Barbels and fins became noticeable. The dark<br />
fry were about 0.35 inch (9 mm) in size and began to<br />
swim about in a tight group. They reacted to light or<br />
touch with flight. I continued with 10 percent water<br />
changes daily and measured a stable pH of 6.9.<br />
April 5: Seven days after hatching, the fry were 0.4<br />
inch (10 mm) long and dark. The yolk sacs were<br />
completely absorbed. I carefully fed baby brine<br />
shrimps, which were greedily consumed. During daylight<br />
hours, I fed them about every four hours. A few fry<br />
refused the food and died, but the majority fed well and<br />
I began changing 50 percent of the water daily. The pH<br />
was between 6.7 and 6.9 at 82°F (28°C).<br />
April 7: The babies had grown to 0.6 inch (1.5 cm) and I<br />
changed the diet to frozen bloodworms every six to eight<br />
hours. These voracious eaters polluted the water heavily,<br />
A magnificent success!<br />
I. CHANG<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
77
Semi-adult specimen of the Pac-Man Catfish, Lophiosilurus alexandri.<br />
so I had to change 50 percent of the tank volume two to<br />
three times a day.<br />
April 12: The fry were 15 days old and looked like small<br />
Pac-Man Catfish with fully developed fins, but darker.<br />
The 64 babies were about 0.8 inch (2 cm) long. They<br />
rested in small caves close to each other, but became immediately<br />
active when food hit the water. They rapidly ate<br />
a lot during each feeding, and with daily water changes<br />
they increased their size by 0.4 inch (1 cm) per week.<br />
Within a few weeks, they had become lighter in color and<br />
turned into perfect little copies of their parents.<br />
~ ~ ~ ~ ~<br />
To me, the captive propagation of aquarium fish is<br />
an important aspect of this wonderful hobby. With the<br />
successful breeding of the Pac-Man Catfish, a dream<br />
became reality. Intense efforts over the years, from<br />
obtaining the juveniles to having the adults spawn,<br />
eventually led to success. Lophiosilurus alexandri is<br />
certainly an unusual aquarium tenant and its keeping is<br />
still quite rare. I am proud to report this success. Maybe<br />
my work will inspire other aquarists to try their luck with<br />
this remarkable catfish.<br />
BOTTOM FEEDER<br />
Algae & Tropical Wafers are highly palatable, easily<br />
digestible sinking foods that provide maximum nutrition for<br />
bottom feeding fish, such as plecos, catfish and clown loaches.<br />
Our wafers have very thin edges making them easy for fish to<br />
nibble. Made from the finest ingredients they provide all the<br />
nutrition your fish need.<br />
Algae Wafers<br />
Tropical Wafers<br />
Algae Wafers for herbivorous bottom feeding fish.<br />
Tropical Wafers<br />
for omnivorous bottom feeding fish.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Also Ask For Frozen Single Items and<br />
Frozen Formula Foods for bottom<br />
fe<br />
eeding fishes like catfish, loaches,<br />
Plecos,<br />
and large invertebrates.<br />
www.oceannutrition.com<br />
Tel: 801-956-0662<br />
H.-G. EVERS<br />
78
“Wow!”<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Volume 2, Number 3<br />
May/June 2013<br />
Become a charter subscriber to AMAZONAS<br />
and don’t miss a single issue!<br />
Use the convenient reply card in this issue, or subscribe online:<br />
www.AmazonasMagazine.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
79
HUSBANDRY<br />
& BREEDING<br />
Using a trick to rear<br />
Apistogramma playayacu<br />
Male Playayacu<br />
Dwarf Cichlid.<br />
article and images by Hans-Georg Evers In recent years things have been rather quiet in the<br />
dwarf cichlid arena, once so popular with aquarists. Back in the day, new species were always<br />
arriving and were enthusiastically snapped up, but now it seems that interest in newcomers is at<br />
a low ebb. In the summer of 2012 a newly described species, Apistogramma playayacu, found its<br />
way into my aquariums for the first time and my excitement was restored.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Martin Mortenthaler of Aquarium Rio Momon in<br />
Iquitos, Peru, frequently sends me photos of new<br />
species he has obtained. When he presented me<br />
with photos of an unknown Apistogramma in May<br />
2012, I was really excited. To date, Apistogramma<br />
playayacu Römer et al., 2011 is known almost exclusively<br />
from preserved museum material. Kästner<br />
(2005) reported on an import going by the name of<br />
Apistogramma sp. “Caquetá,” but the species actually<br />
comes from the drainage of the Río Napo in the<br />
border zone between Ecuador and Peru. And that is<br />
exactly where Martin had obtained these fish.<br />
I subsequently acquired a pair of this species<br />
at the end of June 2012 from OF-Aquaristik in<br />
Butzbach, Germany. The two fish were immediately<br />
housed in a tank of their own that was decorated<br />
with a number of caves, pieces of bogwood, and<br />
dense stands of plants. The female, who measured<br />
around 2.3 inches (6 cm) total length, was the<br />
boss of the tank right from the start and kept the<br />
male, almost twice her size, in his place.<br />
I used reverse-osmosis water, alder cones, and<br />
black peat to establish the water parameters: a<br />
conductivity of around 200 μS/cm and a pH of<br />
80
6.0–6.5. The water temperature in the tank fluctuated<br />
between 77 and 81°F (25–27°C). The fish<br />
were fed Artemia nauplii and frozen food and also<br />
enjoyed frequent feeds of live water fleas and Cyclops.<br />
Mosquito larvae proved to be the ideal food<br />
for getting the female to ripen with eggs.<br />
First spawning<br />
At the end of July the first spawning took place.<br />
The red eggs were clearly visible on the ceiling of<br />
the cave. I hadn’t noticed any courtship at all, as I<br />
had been traveling a lot and had had little time to<br />
observe the fish. The formerly dirty-gray female was<br />
now resplendent in bright yellow. In brood-care<br />
coloration the species-typical black cheek spot contrasted<br />
boldly with the bright-yellow lower half of<br />
the body. The dorsal fin and the rounded caudal fin<br />
were now yellow as well. The base of the pectoral<br />
fins was a splendid orange color in both the male<br />
and the female in brood-care coloration.<br />
Above: Female<br />
Apistogramma<br />
playayacu in<br />
brood-care<br />
coloration. A<br />
fresh clutch<br />
has just been<br />
laid in the clay<br />
pipe.<br />
The larvae<br />
continue to<br />
bear their red<br />
yolk sacs for<br />
a number of<br />
days.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
81
Handcrafted ceramic breeding caves<br />
for large and small Cichlids and Plecos<br />
SouthCentralCichlids.com<br />
Cich<br />
c<br />
Steve Hallgring<br />
| Nancy Villars/Hallgring<br />
i<br />
Port Monmouth NJ 07758<br />
Email sccichlids@aol.com | 732.787.0654<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
82
Successfully<br />
outwitted: a<br />
brooding female<br />
with fry in the<br />
rearing box.<br />
After three days the larvae hatched and wriggled at<br />
the far end of the clay pipe, which was set at a slight angle<br />
in the substrate and open at one end. After another four<br />
days the little ones swam free and followed the female<br />
around the tank. There were only around 20 of them, and<br />
their numbers decreased each day until they had all disappeared<br />
after about a week.<br />
For a long time, I have refrained from taking eggs or fry away from species<br />
that practice brood care in order to guarantee safe rearing with the maximum<br />
number of young. But in the case of such a rare species as the Playayacu<br />
Dwarf Cichlid, I wanted to be able to share the juveniles with a number of<br />
enthusiasts as soon as I could, so I reached into my box of tricks.<br />
Outwitted<br />
With good feeding, the adults spawned again several weeks later. The evening<br />
before, I had observed the male swimming around in front of the breeding<br />
cave with the female and tentatively performing quivering movements. The<br />
devoted togetherness was over by the next morning and the female was chasing<br />
the male all around the tank, a sure sign that there were eggs attached to<br />
the ceiling of the cave once again.<br />
This time, too, the female tended the clutch very reliably and was soon<br />
guarding a little heap of wriggling larvae with red yolk sacs. I carefully siphoned<br />
them all out with an airline and placed them in a glass rearing box<br />
suspended in the parents’ tank. There were more than 120 larvae, a surprisingly<br />
large number of fry for a female of her size. Before long the mother,<br />
robbed of her brood, came closer and eyed the little ones with interest.<br />
After two days the yolk sacs were used up and the larvae swam free. The<br />
female stayed next to the glass box and guarded the brood. The young reacted<br />
to every twitch of their mother and did all the things that they would have<br />
done if she were leading them around the aquarium. The fry were still able to<br />
follow their instincts, but the protective glass box ensured that I wouldn’t lose<br />
any of the brood.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
Kästner, N. 2005. Ein neuer “Zwerg” aus Kolumbien: Apistogramma spec. „Caquetá”. AKZ-News,<br />
1/2005: 45–47.<br />
Römer, U., J. Beninde, and I. Hahn. 2011. Apistogramma playayacu sp. n.: Description of a new cichlid<br />
species (Teleostei: Perciformes: Geophaginae) from the Rio Napo system, Ecuador. Vertebrate Zoology<br />
63 (3): 321–33.<br />
83
HUSBANDRY<br />
& BREEDING<br />
The females are just as<br />
prettily marked as the males.<br />
Ancistrus claro<br />
—a dwarf among the L-number catfishes<br />
article and images by Jörn Sabisch I had searched for Ancistrus claro for a long time, but<br />
sometimes things turn up right on your doorstep. That is how I was able to obtain this little<br />
bristlenose catfish from a breeder here in Berlin. Breeders are often the only source for rare<br />
Ancistrus species, and you must be prepared to travel long distances to get them. If you have<br />
youngsters to dispose of yourself, you quickly learn to gauge the seriousness of a potential buyer.<br />
“That’s too far for me” speaks volumes about the inquiring party’s level of interest.<br />
The attractive vermiculate pattern in males is often mentioned<br />
in the literature, and my fishes exhibit this too.<br />
However, the females aren’t far behind the males. The intensity<br />
of the pattern can apparently be varied—these fish<br />
are very contrast-rich on dark gravel or sand. I have never<br />
seen a similar range of coloration in any other Ancistrus;<br />
these fish can also appear a dull gray-brown. It seems as<br />
if the vermiculate pattern can be switched on and off.<br />
Another characteristic feature of Ancistrus claro is<br />
the very large mouth, almost reminiscent of Chaetostoma<br />
species. Other Ancistrus species have a more triangular<br />
head, and the difference can be seen even in very small<br />
juveniles. I keep my five Ancistrus claro (two males, three<br />
females) in a 20-inch (50-cm) tank with lots of clay<br />
pipes and bogwood.<br />
Ancistrus claro appears to prefer a vagabond existence<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Male Ancistrus claro.<br />
84
when it comes to caves. Except at<br />
spawning time, no individual has<br />
its own cave, as my Ancistrus L<br />
144 do, for example. The females<br />
drive the males out of any cave if<br />
it suits them—they are larger and<br />
more able to look after themselves.<br />
Triangular-shaped pipes<br />
are particular favorites, probably<br />
because they are a good fit for<br />
the fish’s body shape. Bogwood<br />
seems to provide no particular<br />
attraction for Ancistrus claro. In<br />
this respect they are significantly<br />
different from other Ancistrus<br />
(for example, Ancistrus sp. “Río<br />
Paraguay”, L 107).<br />
I now feed my Ancistrus claro<br />
a less vegetarian diet than I use<br />
for other Ancistrus species—food<br />
tablets are noticeably more<br />
popular than spinach, for example. Cucumber,<br />
zucchini, and potato are more or less completely<br />
ignored. The temperature fluctuates between 73<br />
and 79°F (23–26°C), as the heating is controlled<br />
by the same time switch as the light. A friend kept<br />
his specimens at 84°F (29°C). He said that these<br />
conditions were suggested in the original description,<br />
but now he has no fish left. It would seem<br />
that not all L-number catfishes like the conditions<br />
required by Hypancistrus.<br />
After a year of maintenance, when my fish were<br />
almost two years old, I discovered the first clutch.<br />
There were fewer than 20 eggs, but they were very<br />
large, approaching 4 mm in diameter. The clutch<br />
wasn’t like a bunch of grapes—the eggs were distributed<br />
next to one another in a patch on the ceiling<br />
of one of the triangular clay pipes. No egg was attached<br />
on top of the others.<br />
The brooding male lay outside the pipe with<br />
only his head inside, continually fanning water<br />
inside with his fins. I have now observed this behavior in<br />
both males during 10 different spawnings. There was no<br />
change, even when both males were brooding clutches<br />
simultaneously and in sight of one another.<br />
Unfortunately, I lost two clutches because, while I<br />
was away for a few days, the filter had become so clogged<br />
that the diffuser no longer created an air supply. The male<br />
apparently couldn’t compensate for this and the entire<br />
clutch failed to hatch. It appears that the oxygen requirement<br />
is very high, which moved me to set the maintenance<br />
temperature permanently to around 75–77°F<br />
(24–25°C). Of course it sometimes rises to as warm as<br />
86°F (30°C) in the height of summer, but so far all my<br />
fish species have withstood this well in the short term.<br />
After just two days the eggs darkened considerably<br />
Fry of Ancistrus claro with<br />
residual yolk sacs.<br />
Half-grown Ancistrus claro<br />
still exhibits a pattern of<br />
spots on the dark body.<br />
and became almost opaque. After four days the eyes<br />
could be seen in the eggs, but hatching didn’t take place<br />
until the ninth day. From above, the freshly hatched<br />
larvae appeared banded and were very large at around .5<br />
inch (13 mm) in length. With increasing age the young<br />
develop a white spot pattern, which may not be a match<br />
for the other white-spotted species (e.g., L 107) but still<br />
looks quite attractive.<br />
On one point I have to agree with the literature: the<br />
young grow very, very slowly. That is also the main reason<br />
why this species is only rarely available in the trade. Sometimes<br />
you have to travel a bit further to the breeder.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
Seidel, I. 2008. Back to Nature—Handbuch für L-Welse. Ettlingen.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
85
AQUARIUM<br />
CALENDAR<br />
compiled by Mary E. Sweeney<br />
MAY<br />
2–5 Convention<br />
North American Native Fishes<br />
Association<br />
Cumberland Falls, KY<br />
www.nanfa.org/convention/2013.shtml<br />
4 Auction<br />
CAFÉ, Columbus Area Fish Enthusiasts<br />
Columbus, OH<br />
www.columbusfishclub.org<br />
5 Auction<br />
Greater Pittsburgh Aquarium Society<br />
Pittsburgh, PA<br />
gpasi.org<br />
10 Giant Spring Auction<br />
Brooklyn Aquarium Society<br />
Brooklyn, NY<br />
www.basny.org/<br />
JUNE<br />
1–2 Open House<br />
Bergen Water Gardens,<br />
Genesee Valley Koi Club<br />
Rochester NY<br />
www.gvpakc.org<br />
20–23 Show & Auction<br />
Florida Tropical Fish Expo<br />
Holiday Inn, Fort Myers, FL<br />
www.flafishshow.com<br />
22–23 Show & Auction<br />
New England Fancy Guppy Association<br />
Lancaster, MA<br />
www.newenglandguppies.org<br />
28 Auction<br />
Great Lakes Cichlid Society<br />
Euclid, OH<br />
www.greatlakescichlidsociety.net<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
18–19 Show & Auction<br />
IFGA Michigan Guppy Breeders<br />
Orchard Lake, MI<br />
www.ifga.org<br />
18–19 Convention<br />
CAOAC,<br />
Aquarium Club of Edmonton<br />
Edmonton, Alberta, Canada<br />
www.caoac.ca/<br />
24–26 Show & Auction<br />
Greater Chicago Cichlid Association<br />
Chicago, IL<br />
www.gcca.net<br />
24–27 Convention<br />
American Killifish Association<br />
Portland, OR<br />
www.aka.org/convention/2013/<br />
Contact: mary.sweeney@reef2rainforest.com<br />
30 Auction<br />
SCALES, Stark County<br />
Aqua Life Enthusiasts Society<br />
Massillon, OH<br />
www.scalesclub.com<br />
JULY<br />
13–14 Show & Auction<br />
Greater Akron Aquarium Society<br />
Akron, OH<br />
www.gaas-fish.net<br />
18–19 Convention<br />
Rocky Mountain Cichlid Association<br />
(ACA)Denver, CO<br />
www.2013aca.com<br />
20–21 Show & Auction<br />
Guppy Association International of<br />
Chicago<br />
Chicago, IL<br />
www.guppychicago.org<br />
86
AMAZONAS<br />
AMAZONAS is a sponsor of the AACA 2012 Convention 87
Sources<br />
Look for AMAZONAS Magazine in these<br />
outstanding local aquarium shops.<br />
UNITED STATES<br />
Arizona<br />
Aqua Touch<br />
12040 North 32nd St<br />
Phoenix, AZ<br />
602-765-9058<br />
Arizona Nature Aquatics<br />
3025 North Campbell Ave<br />
Tucson, AZ<br />
520-321-9000<br />
Arkansas<br />
Northside Aquatics<br />
7610 Counts Massie Rd Ste A<br />
Maumelle, AR<br />
501-803-3434<br />
Seafari<br />
115 N Dixieland Rd #28<br />
Rogers, AR<br />
479-531-5955<br />
Worlds Under Water<br />
2105B Creekview<br />
Fayetteville, AR<br />
479-521-7258<br />
California<br />
All Seas Marine, Inc<br />
(Distribution Only)<br />
1205 Knox St<br />
Torrance, CA<br />
310-532-7769<br />
Aquatic Central<br />
1963 Ocean Ave<br />
San Francisco, CA<br />
415-584-1888<br />
Ocean Aquarium<br />
120 Cedar St<br />
San Francisco, CA<br />
415-771-3206<br />
White’s Pets<br />
5212 North Blackstone<br />
Fresno, CA<br />
559-438-4343<br />
Colorado<br />
Animal Attraction Pet Store<br />
2518 11th Ave<br />
Greeley, CO<br />
970-353-3400<br />
Neptune’s Tropical Fish<br />
1970 E County Line Rd Unit A<br />
Highlands Ranch, CO<br />
303-798-1776<br />
Connecticut<br />
House of Fins<br />
99 Bruce Park Ave<br />
Greenwich, CT<br />
203-661-8131<br />
Florida<br />
Barrier Reef<br />
1921 NW Boca Raton Blvd<br />
Boca Raton, FL<br />
561-368-1970<br />
Boardroom Aquatics<br />
12795 Kenwood Ln<br />
Fort Myers, FL<br />
239-275-8891<br />
Father Fish Aquarium<br />
536 E Venice Ave<br />
Venice, FL<br />
941-266-9998<br />
Fishy Business<br />
140 S Ronald Reagan Blvd<br />
Longwood, FL<br />
407-331-4882<br />
The Planted Aquarium<br />
Store<br />
3230 NE 12th Ave<br />
Oakland Park, FL<br />
954-990-8871<br />
Sea Life Aquarium<br />
& Service<br />
174 Semoran Commerce Pl<br />
Apopka, FL<br />
407-889-9887<br />
Georgia<br />
Aquarium Outfitters<br />
175 Old Epps Bridge Rd<br />
Athens, GA<br />
706-546-1337<br />
Creation Pet<br />
8265 Hwy 92<br />
Woodstock. GA<br />
770-364-2240<br />
Hawaii<br />
Aquascapes<br />
99-082 Kauhale St. Ste B-4<br />
Aiea, HI<br />
808-487-0077<br />
Kalihi Pet Center<br />
1199 Dillingham Blvd<br />
Ste C-101<br />
Honolulu, HI<br />
808-841-5234<br />
Idaho<br />
Fish, Aquariums & Stuff<br />
6112 West Fairview Ave<br />
Boise, ID<br />
208-377-1119<br />
Illinois<br />
Fish Planet<br />
839 Waukegan Rd<br />
Deerfield, IL<br />
847-945-4700<br />
Sailfin Pet Shop<br />
720 S Neil St<br />
Champaign, IL<br />
217-352-1121<br />
Indiana<br />
Inland Aquatics<br />
10 Ohio St<br />
Terre Haute, IN<br />
812-232-9000<br />
Iowa<br />
Aquatic Environments<br />
730 E Kimberly Rd<br />
Davenport, IA<br />
563-445-3687<br />
Maine<br />
Easy Aquariums<br />
17 A Gorham Industrial Pkwy<br />
Gorham, ME<br />
207-272-5212<br />
Maryland<br />
House of Tropicals<br />
7389F Baltimore Annapolis Blvd<br />
Glen Burnie, MD<br />
410-761-1113<br />
Massachusetts<br />
South Coast Scientific<br />
109 McArthur Rd<br />
Swansea, MA<br />
508-678-8306<br />
Michigan<br />
Blue Fish Aquarium<br />
2939 Wilson Ave SW Ste 109<br />
Grandville, MI<br />
616-667-2424<br />
Moby Dick Pet Store<br />
3700 Sashabaw Rd<br />
Waterford, MI<br />
248-673-2520<br />
MVPets<br />
7429 S Westnedge Ave<br />
Portage, MI<br />
269-492-7387<br />
Oceans and Seas<br />
26085 Gratiot Ave<br />
Roseville, MI<br />
586-778-2223<br />
Preuss Pets<br />
1127 N Cedar St<br />
Lansing, MI<br />
517-339-1762<br />
Minnesota<br />
Tropiquatics<br />
2519 7th Ave E<br />
Saint Paul, MN<br />
651-330-1635<br />
New Hampshire<br />
Laconia Pet Center<br />
1343 Union Ave<br />
Laconia, NH<br />
603-524-8311<br />
New Jersey<br />
Adam’s Pet Safari<br />
19 W Main St<br />
Chester, NJ<br />
908-879-8998<br />
Aquarium Center<br />
1295 Blackwood Clementon Rd<br />
Clementon, NJ<br />
856-627-6262<br />
88
Pets, Pets, Pets<br />
2 JFK Blvd<br />
Somerset, NJ<br />
732-545-6675<br />
New York<br />
Eddie’s Aquarium Centre<br />
1254 New Loudon Rd Rt 9<br />
Cohoes, NY<br />
518-783-3474<br />
The Fish Place<br />
141 Robinson St<br />
North Tonawanda, NY<br />
716-693-4411<br />
Pet Friendly<br />
845 Manitou Rd<br />
Hilton, NY<br />
585-366-4242<br />
North Carolina<br />
Aquarium Outfitters<br />
823 South Main St<br />
Wake Forest, NC<br />
919-556-8335<br />
Blue Ridge Reef & Pet<br />
103 WNC Shopping Ctr Dr<br />
Black Mountain, NC<br />
828-669-0032<br />
Oregon<br />
The Nautilus Tropical Fish<br />
727 Main Street<br />
Springfield, OR<br />
541-344-3474<br />
Pennsylvania<br />
Oddball Pets & Aquarium<br />
262 Joseph St<br />
Pittsburgh, PA<br />
412-884-2333<br />
Texas<br />
Austin Aqua-Dome<br />
1604 Fortview Rd<br />
Austin, TX<br />
512-442-1400<br />
Fish Gallery Houston<br />
2909 Fountain View Dr<br />
Houston, TX<br />
713-523-3474<br />
Reef Valley<br />
920 N 10th Street, Suite 40<br />
Mcallen, TX<br />
956-330-6155<br />
Royal Aquatics<br />
2601 Flower Mound Rd.,<br />
Ste 101<br />
Flower Mound, TX<br />
214-453-9133<br />
Vermont<br />
Pet Advantage<br />
350 Dorset St<br />
South Burlington, VT<br />
802-860-1714<br />
Virginia<br />
Pet & Aquatic Warehouse<br />
2408 Wards Rd<br />
Lynchburg, VA<br />
434-239-6787<br />
West Virginia<br />
Scales & Tails Reptile/<br />
Fish Store<br />
9 1/2 W Washington St<br />
Westover, WV<br />
304-296-9218<br />
Wisconsin<br />
Sunset Tropical Guppies<br />
4864 County Rd C<br />
Auburndale, WI<br />
715-254-4929<br />
CANADA<br />
Reef Wholesale<br />
(Distribution Only)<br />
12 Vulcan St<br />
Etobicoke, ON<br />
613-884-7258<br />
Big Al’s Aquarium<br />
Supercentres<br />
3511 99th St<br />
Edmonton, AB<br />
780-435-3474<br />
The Afishionados<br />
825 Erin St Unit 3<br />
Winnipeg, MB<br />
204-295-5375<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Aqua Blue Distribution<br />
(Distribution Only)<br />
17 Cairns St<br />
Loganholme, Queensland<br />
07-3806-4255<br />
FRANCE<br />
Anthias<br />
3 Chemin de Maupas<br />
69380 Les Cheres<br />
33-437-50-29-80<br />
INDIA<br />
Water World<br />
Ananda Dutta Lane<br />
Howrah-7111 01<br />
West Bengal<br />
91-983-022-5574<br />
MALTA<br />
Blue Reefs<br />
82 Triq Guzeppi Mattew Callus<br />
Mosta, MST 4105<br />
003-562-762-7463<br />
NETHERLANDS<br />
Stunning Corals<br />
Wolvenlaan 285<br />
1216EV Hilversum<br />
Noord-Holland<br />
06-1569-9743<br />
Sell<br />
To sell AMAZONAS<br />
in your store,<br />
contact us today:<br />
Email: sales@rvmags.com<br />
CALL (800) 381-1288<br />
Fax (630) 353-2692<br />
SOUTH AFRICA<br />
Aquarium Depot<br />
(Distribution Only)<br />
#1 Mackenzie Park Capital Hill<br />
392 Le Roux Ave<br />
Halfway House 1685<br />
27-11-805-8899<br />
BACK ISSUES<br />
How deep is your collection<br />
Enrich your aquatic library<br />
with back issues of AMAZONAS. All back<br />
issues are like new, in pristine condition in their<br />
original poly wrapping.<br />
SPECIAL OFFER: Buy 3 issues or more<br />
at $8 each, 6 or more at $7each.<br />
(plus shipping)<br />
Go to www.reef2rainforest.com<br />
and click on the SHOP tab<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
89
SPECIES<br />
SNAPSHOTS<br />
➊ ACENTROGOBIUS VIRIDIPUNCTATUS ➋ NOMORHAMPHUS REX ➌ AEQUIDENS CF. RONDONI ➍<br />
NEOLEBIAS TREWAVASAE ➎ GYMNOTHORAX POLYURANODON ➏ SPINIPTERUS SP. “OTORONGO”<br />
Spotted Green Goby,<br />
Acentrogobius viridipunctatus<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
Acentrogobius viridipunctatus<br />
The gobies and their relatives all over the world<br />
1|<br />
include innumerable species that would be<br />
suitable for freshwater aquariums, but attempts at<br />
their keeping have been made only sporadically, if at<br />
all. Many of these species have not been tried because<br />
they require salt water, at least periodically. In the past<br />
I, too, shared this attitude.<br />
However, these “commuters”—and there are lots<br />
of them among the gobies and their allies—can be very<br />
easily maintained in an appropriate aquarium. Often<br />
only small amounts of sea salt (1–2 g/L) are necessary<br />
to keep these fishes in good condition. Many so-called<br />
brackish-water species even spend long phases of their<br />
lives in completely fresh water. When it comes to reproduction,<br />
and especially the first larval stages, things do<br />
become more complicated—and often saltier (Taxacher<br />
2011a, 2011b). Another factor that is often really<br />
important with regard to the goby tribe is the availability<br />
of live food. These considerations also apply to the species<br />
discussed here, which belongs to the true gobies.<br />
I found and collected Acentrogobius viridipunctatus<br />
in the administrative district of Chantaburi in southeast<br />
Thailand. They were living in a former shrimp-breeding<br />
pool in an area of Nipa Palms with a strong tidal<br />
influence, hiding among stones lying on the otherwise<br />
muddy bottom. The salinity of the water was rather high<br />
at the time of measurement—around 10 g/L. I couldn’t<br />
resist the temptation to pack up some of these gobies<br />
and try my hand with them. They had gorgeous, iridescent<br />
metallic scales on their sides, though this isn’t<br />
reflected to full effect in the accompanying photo.<br />
The bulldog face with the visible teeth suggests<br />
exercising caution about keeping this fish with tankmates,<br />
but so far my Acentrogobius viridipunctatus have<br />
been very peaceful toward tankmates and each other.<br />
Obviously these powerful fish, which measure around 3<br />
inches (8 cm) long, require a certain amount of bottom<br />
space for their territories, but any aggression is well<br />
distributed within the group, and even in a relatively<br />
confined space there are only minor squabbles. And long<br />
periods in completely fresh water present no problems<br />
for this species either. So far there has been no breeding<br />
success—or, more accurately, there have been no<br />
attempts. Acentrogobius viridipunctatus can occur sympatric<br />
with the second species of the genus, A. caninus.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
—Jens Kühne<br />
Taxacher, M. 2011a. Grundeln der Gattung Mugilogobius. AMAZONAS<br />
7 (4), 36: 32–39.<br />
Taxacher, M. 2011b. Kleine Süß- und Brackwassergrundeln aus der<br />
Familie der Gobiidae. AMAZONAS 7 (4), 36: 14–21.<br />
J. KÜHNE<br />
90
Pair of Nomorhamphus rex, Vermillion Halfbeak<br />
TOP: H.-G. EVERS; BOTTOM: T. WEIDNER<br />
Nomorhamphus rex<br />
The halfbeak Nomorhamphus rex from central<br />
2|<br />
Sulawesi, Indonesia, was described quite recently.<br />
These attractive fish have already been imported<br />
incognito a number of times and are now reappearing<br />
under the new species name.<br />
The new species resembles the species N. kolonodalensis<br />
and N. ebrardtii, also from Sulawesi, but differs<br />
in having a longer lower jaw and in the structure of<br />
the male copulatory organ, the andropodium. We now<br />
know 10 described Nomorhamphus species that occur<br />
endemic to Sulawesi.<br />
Nomorhamphus rex Huylebrouck et al. 2012 is<br />
known only from three small river systems in the province<br />
of Sulawesi Selatan. In 2010, my friends Jeffrey<br />
Christian, Peter Debold, and Thomas Heinrichs and<br />
I were able to find these fishes in various clearwater<br />
rivers in the famous Torajaland in South Sulawesi and<br />
bring them back alive to Germany.<br />
These not very aggressive fish are best maintained<br />
in a small group in cool (72–75°F/22–24°C), mediumhard<br />
to hard water. They will eat anything that lands on<br />
the water’s surface. I place gravid<br />
females in small, densely planted<br />
aquariums with a volume of around<br />
10 gallons (30 L) to give birth. I<br />
maintain the group in a 53-gallon<br />
(200-L) aquarium with a number of<br />
bottom-dwelling catfish (Loricariichthys<br />
acutus).<br />
Nomorhamphus rex is not<br />
exactly easy to breed. My largest<br />
brood to date was 12 fry, but they<br />
measured 1.2 cm at birth and<br />
immediately ate small water fleas.<br />
I have often transferred putative<br />
gravid females that unfortunately<br />
became thinner again over the<br />
following days and weeks. Could<br />
it be that the females resorbed the young into their<br />
body cavities because they were over-stressed by being<br />
moved<br />
REFERENCES<br />
—Hans-Georg Evers<br />
Huylebrouck, J., R.K. Hadiaty, and F. Herder. 2012. Nomorhamphus rex,<br />
a new species of viviparous halfbeak (Atherinomorpha: Beloniformes:<br />
Zenarchopteridae) endemic to Sulawesi Selatan, Indonesia. Raffles<br />
Bull Zool 60 (2): 477–85.<br />
Aequidens cf. rondoni<br />
Aequidens have a hard time of it in our aquariums.<br />
Why Probably because half-truths stick<br />
3|<br />
in our heads better than the courage to question them.<br />
When I received word from Aquarium Glaser that one of<br />
their Brazilian exporters might be sending a small number<br />
of Aequidens, I was not that interested at first. But<br />
then I heard that they had purportedly been brought<br />
in under the trade name “Cachimbo verde,” and my<br />
interest was piqued immediately—I had seen photos of<br />
the PIPES expedition (see AMAZONAS 25) on the Web,<br />
Aequidens cf. rondoni<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
91
and they included a bright green Aequidens. I ordered<br />
10 individuals.<br />
I must say, I didn’t regret my decision. The new<br />
arrivals should probably be assigned to Aequidens<br />
rondoni, as they exhibit hints, at least, of the black -<br />
margined scales above the longitudinal band that<br />
are typical for that species. But because this isn’t as<br />
strongly expressed as is usual for A. rondoni, to be<br />
safe I will call them Aequidens cf. rondoni.<br />
As is apparently typical for Aequidens species,<br />
these fish have proved extremely easy to maintain. They<br />
greedily accept any type of food, are relatively peaceful,<br />
and are not demanding with regard to water parameters.<br />
However, even though I have kept them in soft,<br />
acid water, nothing is left of the intense green body coloration.<br />
This doesn’t surprise me, since green shades<br />
are often food-dependent. At present the fish are an<br />
intense yellow, overlain with a slight greenish sheen.<br />
One further point: the really bad guys, which are<br />
(or were) responsible for the negative reputation of the<br />
genus Aequidens, have now been assigned to other<br />
genera, so it is time to give these species a second<br />
chance.<br />
Neolebias trewavasae<br />
—Thomas Weidner<br />
The range of tetras from Africa in the trade is<br />
4|<br />
limited and most species are also rather drab.<br />
Hence it comes as a pleasant surprise to see such a<br />
beauty as Neolebias trewavasae Poll & Gosse, 1963.<br />
This little tetra from the family Distichodidae arrived<br />
in Europe in small numbers from Gabon in 2011. It<br />
grows to around 2 inches (5 cm) long, is very quiet and<br />
peaceful, and, like most South American tetras, is not<br />
very demanding.<br />
In normal coloration, as you see them at a fish<br />
store, these fish look nice, but not that exciting; but<br />
once settled in, they are a real sensation! The males in<br />
particular are truly gorgeous, occupying small territories<br />
which they defend against other males and into which<br />
they try to entice females. In my opinion this is absolutely<br />
the most beautiful small tetra from Africa.<br />
The species purportedly also occurs in southern<br />
Cameroon, at least according to current wisdom. But<br />
when the fish from Cameroon are compared with those<br />
from Gabon there are noticeable differences. The fish<br />
from Cameroon are never as colorful, and the position<br />
of the lateral longitudinal band is different.<br />
Note that some authors regard the genus Neolebias<br />
as a synonym of Nannaethiops, though I can’t<br />
entirely agree. But, as is generally the case, a future<br />
revision will probably bring clarification. To put it mildly,<br />
Neolebias trewavasae is a stunning fish that will enrich<br />
any aquarium. With any luck, it can be bred successfully<br />
and the population increased; unfortunately, imports<br />
from Gabon are extremely rare.<br />
Gymnothorax polyuranodon<br />
—Anton Lamboj<br />
The attractive Black-Spotted Moray, Gymnothorax<br />
polyuranodon, can definitely be recom-<br />
5|<br />
mended to fans of brackish-water fishes. These fish<br />
turn up now and then in the trade, and sometimes it<br />
is possible to order them through a retailer. They won’t<br />
last long in completely fresh water and should be maintained<br />
with the addition of salt right from the start.<br />
In addition to a really tightly covered aquarium—<br />
these beasts are real experts at escaping—there<br />
should be plenty of hiding places for these sociable<br />
eels. They are predators that like to have shrimps and<br />
small fishes to eat.<br />
They quickly become accustomed to their owner and<br />
will often take morsels of food offered using forceps—<br />
another reason, in addition to their attractive coloration,<br />
Male Neolebias trewavasae,<br />
a scarlet-banded African tetra<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
A. LAMBOJ<br />
92
Black-Spotted Moray, Gymnothorax polyuranodon<br />
why these morays make good pets for aquarists and<br />
their families. Such unusual pets may even prove interesting,<br />
at least briefly, to the iPhone-addicted teenager.<br />
Spinipterus sp. “Otorongo”<br />
—Hans-Georg Evers<br />
The number of fans of driftwood catfishes (family<br />
Auchenipteridae) worldwide is probably negli-<br />
6|<br />
gible. The majority of members of this South American<br />
catfish family look like a bizarre piece of wood and<br />
move about as much, at least during the day. A few<br />
exceptions, such as the popular Centromochlus perugiae,<br />
are attractively colored. The same can be said of<br />
the species recently imported for the first time by Pier<br />
Aquatics (Wigan, England), which, on the basis of its<br />
external characteristics, should probably be assigned<br />
to the recently described genus Spinipterus, previously<br />
regarded as monotypic.<br />
Spinipterus sp. “Otorongo” (its trade name) was<br />
imported from Peru; no more precise locality is given.<br />
This nocturnal species appears not to grow very large.<br />
Specimens of only around 3 inches (8 cm) total length,<br />
such as the male in the accompanying photo, already<br />
exhibit clear sexual differences—for example, the copulatory<br />
organ formed from the first anal fin in males.<br />
This species practices internal fertilization. It is still<br />
not known whether the females of this species, like the<br />
similar C. perugiae, practice brood care, guarding eggs<br />
laid in caves.<br />
REFERENCES<br />
—Hans-Georg Evers<br />
Akama, A., and C.J. Ferraris, Jr. 2011. Spinipterus, a new genus of<br />
small, spiny catfish (Siluriformes: Auchenipteridae) from the Peruvian<br />
Amazon. Zootaxa 2992: 52–60.<br />
Spinipterus sp. “Otorongo”<br />
TOP: F. WANG; BOTTOM: N. WOODWARD<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
93
SOCIETY<br />
CONNECTIONS<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
94<br />
U.S. AQUARIUM<br />
SOCIETIES<br />
NATIONAL AQUARIUM CLUBS<br />
American Cichlid Association<br />
www.cichlid.org<br />
American Killifish Association<br />
www.aka.org<br />
American Livebearer Association<br />
www.livebearers.org<br />
The Angelfish Society<br />
www.theangelfishsociety.org<br />
Aquatic Gardeners Association<br />
www.aquatic-gardeners.org<br />
International Betta Congress<br />
www.ibcbettas.org<br />
International Fancy Guppy Association<br />
www.ifga.org<br />
Mid-Atlantic Koi Club<br />
www.makc.com<br />
North American Discus Association<br />
www.discusnada.org<br />
The North American Native Fishes<br />
Association<br />
www.nanfa.org<br />
Northeast Council of Aquarium Societies<br />
www.northeastcouncil.org/nec/<br />
ARIZONA<br />
Dry Wash Aquarium Society, Phoenix<br />
www.DryWashAquarium.org<br />
Arizona Aquatic Plant Enthusiasts (AAPE)<br />
Tuscon & Phoenix<br />
www.azaquaticplants.com/index.php<br />
CALIFORNIA<br />
Sacramento Aquarium Society<br />
Sacramento<br />
www.SacramentoAquariumSociety.org<br />
San Francisco Aquarium Society<br />
San Francisco<br />
www.SFAquarium.org<br />
Silicon Valley Aquarium Society<br />
San Jose<br />
www.SiliconValleyAquariumSociety.com<br />
COLORADO<br />
Colorado Aquarium Society, Arvada<br />
www.ColoradoAquarium.org<br />
Rocky Mountain Cichlid Association<br />
www.rmcichlid.org<br />
CONNECTICUT<br />
Greater Hartford Aquarium Society<br />
Manchester<br />
www.GHASCT.org<br />
Northeast Livebearer Association<br />
Bristol<br />
www.nela.northeastcouncil.org<br />
Norwalk Aquarium Society<br />
South Norwalk<br />
www.NorwalkAS.org<br />
DISTRICT OF COLUMBIA<br />
Greater Washington Aquatic Plant<br />
Association<br />
www.GWAPA.org<br />
FLORIDA<br />
Gold Coast Aquarium Society of South<br />
Florida, Cooper City<br />
www.GCAquarium.org<br />
Tampa Bay Aquarium Society, Tampa<br />
www.TBAS1.com<br />
GEORGIA<br />
Atlanta Area Aquarium Association<br />
Atlanta<br />
www.AtlantaAquarium.com<br />
HAWAII<br />
Honolulu Aquarium Society, Honolulu<br />
www.HonoluluAquariumSociety.org<br />
ILLINOIS<br />
Central Illinois Tropical Aquarium Club<br />
(CITAC)<br />
Bloomington<br />
www.citac-il.org<br />
Federation of American Aquarium<br />
Societies<br />
Champaign<br />
www.FAAS.info<br />
Greater Chicago Cichlid Association<br />
Brookfield<br />
www.GCCA.net<br />
Green Water Aquarist Society, Alsip<br />
www.GWASOC.org<br />
INDIANA<br />
Circle City Aquarium Club<br />
Indianapolis<br />
www.CircleCityAqClub.org<br />
Michiana Aquarium Society, South Bend<br />
www.MichianaAquariumSociety.org<br />
IOWA<br />
Eastern Iowa Aquarium Association<br />
Cedar Rapids<br />
www.FinFlap.com<br />
LOUISIANA<br />
Southeast Louisiana Aquarium Society<br />
Baton Rouge & New Orleans<br />
www.selas.us<br />
MARYLAND<br />
Capital Cichlid Association, Silver Spring<br />
www.CapitalCichlids.org<br />
MASSACHUSETTS<br />
Boston Aquarium Society, Boston<br />
www.BostonAquariumSociety.org<br />
Pioneer Valley Aquarium Society<br />
Chicopee<br />
www.PVAS.net<br />
Worcester Aquarium Society, Worcester<br />
www.WorcesterAquarium.org<br />
MICHIGAN<br />
Greater Detroit Aquarium Society<br />
Royal Oak<br />
www.GreaterDetroitAquariumSociety.org<br />
Grand Valley Aquarium Society<br />
Grand Rapids<br />
www.GrandValleyAquariumClub.org<br />
Southwest Michigan Aquarium Society<br />
Portage<br />
www.SWMAS.org<br />
MINNESOTA<br />
Minnesota Aquarium Society<br />
Roseville<br />
www.aquarium.mn<br />
MISSOURI<br />
Missouri Aquarium Society, St. Louis<br />
www.MissouriAquariumSociety.com<br />
NEW HAMPSHIRE<br />
New Hampshire Aquarium Society<br />
Rollinsford<br />
www.NHAquariumSociety.com<br />
NEW JERSEY<br />
Jersey Shore Aquarium Society<br />
Freehold<br />
www.JerseyShoreAS.org<br />
North Jersey Aquarium Society, Nutley<br />
www.NJAS.net<br />
NEW YORK<br />
Allegheny River Valley Aquarium Society<br />
Olean<br />
www.orgsites.com/ny/ARVAS<br />
Brooklyn Aquarium Society, Brooklyn<br />
www.BASNY.org<br />
Danbury Area Aquarium Society (DAAS)<br />
Carmel<br />
www.northeastcouncil.org/daas<br />
Central New York Aquarium Society<br />
Syracuse<br />
www.CNYAS.org<br />
Genesee Valley Koi & Pond Club<br />
Rochester<br />
www.ggw.org/GVPAKE<br />
Greater City Aquarium Society, Flushing<br />
www.GreaterCity.org<br />
Long Island Aquarium Society<br />
Stony Brook<br />
www.LIASOnline.org<br />
Thanks to Ray “Kingfish” Lucas of Kingfish Services in Boston, NY, for his invaluable help in establishing this<br />
directory and the AMAZONAS Aquarium Calendar of Events. www.kingfishservices.net
Nassau County Aquarium Society<br />
Rockville Center<br />
www.NCASweb.org<br />
Niagara Frontier Koi & Pond Club<br />
North Tonawanda<br />
www.NFKPC.org<br />
Tropical Fish Club of Erie County<br />
Hamburg<br />
www.Tropical-Fish-Club-of-Erie-County.com<br />
NORTH CAROLINA<br />
Raleigh Aquarium Society, Raleigh<br />
www.RaleighAquariumSociety.org<br />
OHIO<br />
Cleveland Aquarium Society, Cleveland<br />
www.ClevelandAquariumSociety.org<br />
Columbus Area Fish Enthusiasts<br />
Plain City<br />
www.ColumbusFishClub.org<br />
Greater Akron Aquarium Society, Akron<br />
www.GAAS-FISH.net<br />
Great Lakes Cichlid Society, Euclid<br />
www.GreatLakesCichlidSociety.net<br />
Medina County Aquarium Society<br />
Medina<br />
www.geocities.com/MCASfish/index<br />
Ohio Cichlid Association, Brunswick<br />
www.OhioCichlid.com<br />
Stark County Aqua Life Enthusiasts<br />
Society, Canton<br />
www.ClubScales.com<br />
Youngstown Area Tropical Fish Society<br />
Youngstown<br />
www.YATFS.com<br />
OREGON<br />
Greater Portland Aquarium Society<br />
Clackamas<br />
www.GPAS.org<br />
PENNSYLVANIA<br />
Aquarium Club of Lancaster County<br />
Lancaster<br />
www.ACLCPA.org<br />
Bucks County Aquarium Society<br />
Chalfont<br />
www.BCASOnline.com<br />
Greater Pittsburgh Aquarium Society<br />
Pittsburgh<br />
www.GPASI.org<br />
TEXAS<br />
Houston Aquarium Society, Houston<br />
www.HoustonAquariumSociety.org<br />
VERMONT<br />
Tropical Fish Club of Burlington<br />
Burlington<br />
www.tfcb.org/<br />
VIRGINIA<br />
Central Virginia Aquarium Society<br />
Richmond<br />
www.CVAS.forumotion.com<br />
Potomac Valley Aquarium Society, Fairfax<br />
www.PVAS.com<br />
WASHINGTON<br />
Greater Seattle Aquarium Society<br />
Seattle<br />
www.GSAS.org<br />
Puget Sound Aquarium Society<br />
Federal Way<br />
www.thePSAS.org<br />
WISCONSIN<br />
Milwaukee Aquarium Society, Milwaukee<br />
www.MilwaukeeAquariumSociety.com<br />
Central Wisconsin Aquarium Society<br />
Wausau<br />
www.cwas.org<br />
INTERNATIONAL<br />
AQUARIUM<br />
SOCIETIES<br />
AUSTRALIA<br />
Australia New Guinea Fishes Association<br />
www.angfa.org.au/<br />
New South Wales Cichlid Society<br />
Moorebank, NSW<br />
www.NSWCS.org.au<br />
Victorian Cichlid Society Inc.<br />
Mitcham, VIC<br />
home.vicnet.net.au/~cichlid<br />
Queensland Cichlid Group Inc.<br />
Clayfield, QLD<br />
www.qcichlid.org<br />
BELGIUM<br />
Belgian Cichlid Association<br />
www.cichlidae.be<br />
BERMUDA<br />
Bermuda Fry-Angle Aquarium Society<br />
www.fryangle.com<br />
CANADA<br />
The Canadian Association<br />
of Aquarium Clubs<br />
Canada & New York State<br />
www.caoac.ca<br />
London Aquaria Society<br />
London, ON<br />
www.londonaquariasociety.com<br />
Saskatoon Aquarium Society<br />
Saskatoon, SK<br />
www.SaskatoonAquarium.com<br />
GET LISTED! Contact: Mary Sweeney, Senior Editor: mary.sweeney@reef2rainforest.com<br />
Montreal Aquarium Society, Montreal, QC<br />
www.theMontrealAquariumSociety.com<br />
Hamilton & District Aquarium Society<br />
Hamilton, ON<br />
www.HDAS.ca<br />
Durham Region Aquarium Society<br />
Oshawa, ON<br />
www.DRAS.ca<br />
Regina Aquarium Society<br />
www.reginaaquariumsociety.ca<br />
Association Regionale des Aquariophiles<br />
de Quebec, Ste-Foy, QC<br />
www.ARAQ.org<br />
Aquarium Society of Winnipeg<br />
Winnipeg, MB<br />
www.ASW.ca<br />
FINLAND<br />
Ciklidistit r.y. (Finnish Cichlid<br />
Association), Vantaa<br />
www.aquahoito.info/cichlids/index.html<br />
FRANCE<br />
Association France Cichlid, Hoenheim<br />
www.FranceCichlid.com<br />
GERMANY<br />
Deutsche Cichliden-Gesellschaft<br />
(German Cichlid Society)<br />
Frankfurt am Main<br />
www.DCGonline.de<br />
MALAYSIA<br />
Malaysia Guppy Club<br />
www.myguppy.net<br />
MALTA<br />
Malta Aquarist Society<br />
www.maltaaquarist.com/<br />
SINGAPORE<br />
Discus Club Singapore<br />
www.DiscusClubSG.com<br />
UNITED KINGDOM<br />
Anabantoid Association of Great Britain<br />
Doncaster<br />
www.AAGB.org<br />
BIDKA: The British and International<br />
Discus Keepers Association<br />
www.BIDKA.org<br />
Bristol Aquarists’ Society, Bristol<br />
www.bristol-aquarists.org.uk<br />
The Federation of British Aquatic<br />
Societies, Sussex<br />
www.FBAS.co.uk<br />
Greater Manchester Cichlid Society<br />
www.nekrosoft.co.uk/GMCS<br />
The Calypso Fish and Aquaria Club<br />
London<br />
www.calypso.org.uk<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
95
ADVERTISERS<br />
INDEX<br />
American Cichlids Association Convention ..... 96<br />
www.2013aca.com<br />
AMAZONAS Back Issues .................. 89<br />
www.reef2rainforest.com/shop<br />
AMAZONAS Retail Sources ............. 88, 89<br />
www.reef2rainforest.com<br />
AMAZONAS Subscriptions .............. 18, 79<br />
www.amazonasmagazine.com<br />
American Livebearer Association ............ 87<br />
www.ALA2013.com<br />
Boyd Enterprises .............<br />
inside front cover<br />
www.chemipure.com<br />
Brightwell Aquatics ..................8, 15, 17<br />
www.brightwellaquatics.com<br />
CAOAC Convention and Fish Show ........... 46<br />
www.edmontonfish.com<br />
EcoTech Marine. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . 70, 71<br />
www.ecotechmarine.com<br />
Florida Tropical Fish Expo ................. 87<br />
www.flafish.com<br />
Fritz Aquatics .......................... 16<br />
www.fritzaquatics.com<br />
Hikari ...........................33, 53, 83<br />
www.hikariusa.com/am<br />
Invertebrates by Msjinkzd ................. 11<br />
www.msjinkzd.com<br />
Lifegard Aquatics ........................ 9<br />
www.lifegardaquatics.com<br />
Milwaukee Instruments ................... 11<br />
www.milwaukeeinstruments.com<br />
New Era-Living Color .......... inside back cover<br />
www.livingcolor.com<br />
Ocean Nutrition ......................... 78<br />
www.oceannutrition.com<br />
Piscine Energetics ....................... 32<br />
www.mysis.com<br />
Poly-Bio Marine . ......................... 5<br />
www.poly-bio-marine.com<br />
Prodibio . ............................. 82<br />
www.prodibio.com<br />
Reef to Rainforest Website . ............... 19<br />
www.reef2rainforest.com<br />
Repashy Superfoods . .................... 46<br />
www.repashy.com<br />
Riparium Supply . ....................... 97<br />
www.ripariumsupply.com<br />
San Francisco Bay Brand . ................. 47<br />
www.sfbb.com<br />
Segrest Farms . ......................... 21<br />
www.segrestfarms.com<br />
South Central Cichlids . ................... 82<br />
www.southcentralcichlids.com<br />
Stax Magnetic Rock Ledges . .............. 97<br />
www.staxrock.com<br />
Swiss Tropicals . ........................ 61<br />
www.swisstropicals.com<br />
Ted’s Fishroom . ........................ 82<br />
www.tedsfishroom.com<br />
Tunze . ............................... 73<br />
www.tunze.com<br />
Two Little Fishies . ................... 11, 16<br />
www.twolittlefishies.com<br />
The Wet Spot . ......................... 46<br />
www.wetspottropicalfish.com<br />
ZooMed . .................... 13, back cover<br />
www.zoomed.com<br />
For an AMAZONAS Media Kit<br />
or other information, please contact:<br />
James Lawrence, Publisher • 802.985.9977 Ext. 7,<br />
James.Lawrence@reef2rainforest.com<br />
Magnetic<br />
Reef Rock<br />
Patent Pending<br />
<br />
<br />
Invisibly Attached<br />
Real Rock Ledges<br />
Save space, add habitat<br />
<br />
<br />
staxreef@hotmail.com | www.staxrock.com<br />
eBay Store: STAX Rock Aquarium Fish Decoration<br />
eBay Category: Pet Supplies> Aquarium & Fish> Aquariums<br />
Planted Ripariums<br />
Grow easy-care riparium plants with<br />
your aquarium fish.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
www.RipariumSupply.com<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
97
UNDERWATER<br />
EYE<br />
Hericthys labridens “Yellow,”<br />
the Yellow Labridens, from<br />
Media Luna, Mexico. Listed<br />
as a “threatened” species<br />
in the wild, the fish is crossbreeding<br />
itself out of existence<br />
with the invasive Hericthys<br />
carpinte, which entered its<br />
waters via a manmade canal.<br />
Photographed by<br />
Morrill Devlin.<br />
AMAZONAS<br />
98
ZOO MED LABORATORIES, INC.<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
<br />
www.zoomed.com