The Altai Mountains - Greentours

Daily Report by Ian Green 

The Altai Mountains 

Day 1 June 14 th Arrival 

Where Four Worlds Meet 

14 th – 29 th June 2001 

A Greentours Trip Report 

Lead by Ian Green, Vladimir Kolbintsev and Yuri 

As ever Lufthansa got us to Almaty when they said they would and was it my imagination or was 

the process of going through customs, immigration and baggage reclaim just that little bit 

smoother than before. Certainly to arrive at our hotel before midnight (only just!) was a new 

experience. And newly refurbished too. All the rooms we took had ‘living rooms’ attached and 

the bathrooms even had two entrances. Some joined Vladimir in the bar for a few beers and a 

chance to unwind after the flight. 

Day 2 June 15 th Cim Bulak and the Small Almaty Gorge 

Because the flight to Ust-Kamenogorsk wasn’t until the evening we were able to spend a very 

pleasant day enjoying the mountains above Almaty which for many of us was a second or third 

visit, though I don’t think any of us had been in June, clearly an ideal time to be here! As we 

drove up the road past the Medeo Dam there was plenty to grab our attention out the window. 

Perhaps the most obvious plant was the impressively tall Ligularia heterophylla with large 

yellow-flowered heads sometimes over two metres tall. Just as yellow but of a more sprawling 

nature was acres of Sedum hybridum on rock faces. We passed groups of Aconitum leucostonum 

and a few bright blue Aconitum songoricum growing amongst birches and willows, whilst Grey 

Wagtails hopped off the road in front of us. We were all itching to get out and so we stopped at 

the ‘traditional’ April stopping spot below the ski station and spent an hour enjoying all this 

productive area had to throw at us! Corncrakes called for most of the time and Vladimir even saw 

one briefly and a little above us we could hear Common Rosefinches and Grasshopper Warblers. 

In wet flushes we found some lovely plants – pink Cortusa broteroi, white Pedicularis 

dolichorrhiza, lots of Dactylorhiza umbrosa and bright orange Trollius dshungaricus. Drier spots 

were covered in a fine show of Astragalus alpinus, one of the few members of this genus that we 

were able to identify specifically during the holiday – and we saw very many! Phlomis oreophila 

grew with some fine Polemonium caeruleum and the yellow-flowered wands of Eremurus fuscus 

rose from a rocky slope above, these growing with some alliums, one of which was Allium 

hymenorrhizum. The sun really had brought some fine butterflies out, most notably the Apollos 

which were drifting up and down the slope. Here were our first Yellow-legged Tortoiseshells of 

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the trip – we weren’t to know at this stage how common they would be! Erebia turanica was 

quite common and Clive found a Scotch Argus but best three butterflies were probably Eastern 

Dappled White, the white heath Coenonympha sunbecca and the unusual ‘white’ Metaporia 

leucodice – none of these were seen in the Altai. 

Our bus, driven by the phlegmatic Yevgeny (a description that could have fitted the vehicle too) 

continued on up past the ski station and then beyond the Tjuk-su Hotel and having almost reached 

the tree line he simply drove it off the road and then set about arranging the picnic. We walked on 

up towards the pass a way. By now we weren’t so far from the nearest snow however there was so 

much to see that we took our time getting there! The variety of wonderful plants was incredible. 

By the trackside grew the edleweiss Leontopodium fedtschenkoanum, Lonicera hispida, the bright 

orange Erysimum croceum and almost equally bright Erigeron auranteus. A perfect rosette of 

Chorispora bungeana grew on the gravel and even Primula algida flourished on the trackside. A 

little below by a stream were the big bright pinky-red umbels of Primula nivalis, one of the finest 

of the primulas in the nivalis section. The large bright blue flowers of Dracocephalum c.f. (but 

not!) grandiflorum were a tremendous sight, sometimes growing with Papaver croceum and often 

with both Viola altaica in a profusion of colour forms and yellow Viola acutiloba. By recently 

melted snow was Allium atrosanguineum, the delicate foliage and white anemone-like flowers of 

Callianthemum alatavicum and the strange Tulipa heterophylla. Some of us made it up to the cliff 

faces just above the track where the wonderful Paraquilegia grandiflora was in fine flower and 

with it was Viola biflora and Allium polyphyllum. Below on steep screes we saw Androsace 

olgae, Ranunculus cf. thora, Trollius lilacinus (just about over) and a fine group of Tulipa 

dasystemon. Other plants of note were Gagea cf. peduncularis, Aquilegia atrovinosa, 

Chrysosplenium nudicaule (?), Aster alpinus, Sorbus tianshanica, Anemone protracta, 

Hedysarum flavescens and several species of Rhodiola including coccineum and semenovii. 

Of course with this wealth of plantlife we barely had time to look at anything else. Some of us 

saw a superb Black-throated Accentor which stayed perched on its Tien Shan Spruce long enough 

for us to get it in the ‘scope. Other birds included Hume’s Warbler, Wren and some Red-billed 

Chough and though we didn’t see any mammals we did hear Grey Marmot. Butterflies were 

flying well even up by the snow with most of the commoner high altitude species noted – Queen 

of Spain Fritillary, Pale Clouded Yellow, Green-veined White, Orange-tip, Painted Lady and 

Small Tortoiseshell. 

After a fine and rather late picnic (there had been too much to see!) we descended to Almaty and 

to the city check-in for the airport. This novel experience was followed by a bus ride into the 

airport and then ended with us getting dumped into a waiting area there ‘cos the plane wasn’t 

ready! It didn’t take too long for this to be rectified and then we were on our way to Ust- 

Kamenogorsk, arriving only a little late. We were met by Andrei and his wife and various other 

members of the family and whisked straight to the hotel with no name on the banks of the Irtysh 

River where we had time to wash before doing the five minute drive to a rather good café where 

we enjoyed the local form of pizza. Mikhail, Andrei’s nephew proved a big hit as his very good 

English allowed some of the group to discover a little about this city in what is, at least to us, the 

back of beyond. Mikhail answered questions willingly and we learnt about all the mining 

operations in the area and how the city was known in the former Soviet Union as an academy for 

geologists – not surprisingly many of the people looking after us during the next couple of weeks 

had trained as such! 

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Day 3 June 16 th Ust-Kamenogorsk to Zaysan 

I popped out for a not so early walk along the river seeing Golden Oriole, Tree Sparrow and Idas 

Blue and then after a rather unusual breakfast we packed up the baggage and were off by about 

9.15. The road east takes one twice across the Irtysh, which even this far from the ocean is a big 

river, before exiting the city and heading towards the hills. We were soon driving across steppe 

that rather reminded those of us that had been there of the Karatau in southern Kazakhstan. We 

were passing much of interest and we weren’t so far past the last village of dachas (weekend 

retreats) before we just had to stop! We’d passed two Steppe Eagles already so when two Imperial 

Eagles appeared we just had to have a look. Also here was a Dione Snake and just off the road 

were purple Verbascum phoeniceum and the beautiful blue flowered Clematis integrifolia. The 

butterfly list got off to a flyer (!) with a Freyer’s Fritillary as well as Esper’s Marbled White, 

Chestnut Heath, Hungarian Glider and Black-veined White. As we continued it became apparent 

that Black Kites were pretty numerous in this region. 

We started climbing steadily up into the Kalbinskiy Hills and it wasn’t long before snow patches 

became visible on the surrounding hills – there had been a lot of snow during the last winter so 

even now, in mid-June, snow was lying below 2000m (indeed there was even a little left when we 

came back past it two weeks later). We decided to stop by the next patch and as we pulled up 

realised that there was a superb show of bright pink Paeonia anomala in flower amongst all the 

herbage between us and the snow – a superb sight. Growing amongst the peonies was the tall 

Lathyrus gmelini and Bupleurum longifolium. There was a steep bank covered in paeonies and it 

was with some trouble that we negotiated this to get to the snow. By the melting white stuff, 

which did seem rather incongruous in the now quite hot sunshine, were little groups of Cowslips 

and bright blue Pulmonaria mollissima (?), both in fine flower. A dry bank above this held a mass 

of new flowers – Pulsatilla patens in seed and an anemone species in flower, tall spikes of pink 

Pedicularis elata and our first Iris, the beautiful blue ruthenica. Here too was Dianthus hoeltzeri, 

Androsace lactiflora, Scutellaria sieversi, Campanula patula (?) and plenty of Spiraea, a genus 

we were to see a lot of. Dalmatian Ringlet was seen here and Glanville Fritillary by the roadside. 

We moved on to the top of the pass and into a belt of open rolling meadows and remnant Scots 

Pine forest all at one altitude. The landscape was incredibly green and in truth we could have 

stopped anywhere along here and seen plenty of wonderful stuff. We only had time for a short 

stop though – and were rewarded with a spectacular bit of through-the-trees flying by a male 

Montagu’s Harrier. Lilium martagon was found in good flower and the round sempervivum-like 

rosettes of Orostachis spinosa were abundant. Our second ringlet species of the day was the 

beautifully-marked Erebia theano and then we found a Lapland Fritillary which perched briefly 

on a fallen Scots Pine. 

Lunch was taken in a roadside yourta (this is not the stop referred to frequently in the butterfly 

list!) which served us up some traditional pirmeni – a little like ravioli. Outside groups of Greyheaded 

Goldfinches were enjoying something by the wall of the very smelly loo. Corncrakes and 

Quail called and each was seen briefly as was a Common Snipe that landed in the little stream 

behind the yourta. Two male Common Rosefinches were too busy trying to oust each other from a 

roadside willow to take much notice of anything else, thus allowing us close approach. 

As we drove on we passed immaculate groups of Dictamnus albus or Burning Bush and bright 

yellow Irises that made me yearn to stop again, but alas no time – these were almost certainly Iris 

bloudowii. We made a brief stop as a snake appeared on the road – we jumped out quickly to find 

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a Haly’s Pit Viper none too keen to be moved off the warm tarmac! Occasional Long-tailed 

Susliks dived for their holes as we passed. As we neared the desert there was a marked increase in 

the number of birds using the telegraph wires as a vantage point. Most noticeable amongst these 

were Red-headed Buntings and Red-backed Shrikes but we also saw a line of Oriental Turtle 

Doves and the odd Cuckoo. 

We reached the ferry crossing with a little time to spare so had just twenty minutes in the nearby 

sand dunes where Zaysan Toad-headed Agama proved common. Beema race Yellow Wagtails 

perched atop the elegant Leymus angustus (?), a type of lyme grass. We and a few cars pulled 

onto the ferry and started across this arm of Lake Zaysan as ladies selling the local dried fish 

enjoyed a little posing for our cameras – they probably get no more than a handful of tourists 

passing this way each year – or perhaps none at all! The ferry came complete with a resident 

avifauna that went back and forth with it all day long – both Swallows and Tree Sparrows 

appeared to be nesting there-on. Once on the other side we put our heads down and drove hard for 

the campsite, passing vast numbers of Rose-coloured Starlings which wheeled back in forth 

across the road in front of us. We only stopped once we’d left the tarmac far behind and were 

driving across a gravelly plain sparsely vegetated with Saxaul bushes. Within moments we were 

enjoying our first Black Larks – and then the first Pallas’s Sandgrouse flew by giving their 

rippling call. Two classic central Asian steppe-desert species in the first few moments – Zaysan is 

a wonderful place. As we continued on towards the lake shore and thence westward towards our 

camp we passed at least fifty Black Larks and several more Pallas’s Sandgrouse too. Upland 

Buzzards sat about on the desert hardly bothering to move as we came past and there were two 

Long-legged Buzzards as well. The front UAZ (the vehicles we were using) saw a good number 

of Red-cheeked Susliks which had already sought cover by the time our second vehicle went past 

them. 

Eventually we crested a rise and saw the camp in front of us – it was in a magnificent location. At 

the base of a spit of gravel that arced out into the huge lake and at the foot of a hill backed by a 

good looking area of steppe-desert were our tents complete with two flagpoles, one with the 

Kazakh flag already fluttering in the breeze. The lake shore was mere yards from the front 

entrances of the tents and behind them, and protected by the gravel spit, was a wetland just 

teeming with White-winged Black Terns. As we got out of the vehicles we feared that the clouds 

of what looked like mosquitoes would devour us – but this proved far from being true. There 

were indeed millions of them, mostly hovering just above tent level and making a fearsome noise 

in the late evening, but these were clearly non biters. It was only later that a few of the real 

mossies came out – but not really so many. Once we had unpacked an enjoyed a swim in the cool 

lake waters it was time for dinner. Later as the beer and vodka came out and the light waned we 

could hear what sounded like rain on top of the open-sided mess tent – it was those insects again! 

Day 4 June 17 th Zaysan Desert 

The prospect of the day ahead brought some of us out of our tents early for a little look at the 

wetland birds out along the spit. Four Dalmatian Pelicans and about twenty Great Black-headed 

Gulls occupied the end of the spit but between us and them were more than a hundred Whitewinged 

Black Terns and a mixture of ducks that included Pintail and a male Wigeon as well as 

Little and Common Terns and Little Ringed Plovers and Redshanks. Perhaps the most surprising 

sight of all was of Black Larks displaying with some gusto over this watery landscape. 

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It took us an hour to drive to the Kiin Kerish Canyon. The route took us along the lakeshore to a 

small village (the only one for very many miles it seemed) and thence inland. En route we passed 

Upland Buzzards every few minutes and little groups of Pallas’s Sandgrouse were quite common. 

A single Short-toed Lark and many Oriental Skylarks were on the tracks in front of us. We pulled 

up on some high ground overlooking the canyon. Canyon is not really the right word, for it is 

more like some badlands at the foot of a small scarp, but the amazing colours of the eroded rock 

and the intricate shapes hint at something far bigger and more impressive, so canyon seems to 

give an impression closer to reality even though the geomorphology is certainly not that. Strong 

reds, ochres and whites ran away to either side of us and the canyon looked like it would take a 

day long mule ride to descend into whereas in fact it was a brief two minute walk! Almost 

immediately there were strange birds to be seen – some finches landed behind the minibus and we 

knew they must be something unusual judging by the amount of white and pink showing in flight. 

Briefly they re-appeared confirming our suspicions that they were Mongolian Trumpeter Finches. 

As they disappeared a small dark-headed warbler hopped up into a saxaul bush – a Desert Lesser 

Whitethroat. The ground flora (where it existed) was intriguing. Wim soon found tulips – of 

course here in seed. It must have been a sight in early April for there were numerous seed heads 

of Tulipa altaica and a good number of Tulipa biflora too. More traditionally steppe-desert 

vegetation in the shape of chenopods were frequent, the most striking of which was Nanophytum 

erinaceum, which means something along the lines of ‘little plant like a hedgehog’ which sums it 

up nicely. The green part of the plant was rather equisetum-like in that it consisted of a bunch of 

green ‘needles’ and where the sand and gravel had been eroded away one could see the thick 

wooden trunk below – this sometimes several inches across. A striking Lagochilus was in flower 

as was the rather elegant Ferula krilovii. Actually upon close inspection there was rather a lot in 

flower with Acanthophyllum pungens sadly not attracting the numbers of butterflies that it seems 

to elsewhere – here only Hyponephele naricina – and the strange green flowered Zygophyllum 

pterocarpum, and a couple of parasitic plants - Cistanche salsa and an Orobanche. As we 

wandered about the canyon area Pallas’s Sandgrouse flew past at regular intervals though Clive 

and Sina had the privilege of finding a nest with three eggs. Two distant Steppe Eagles put in an 

appearance but sadly the Upland Buzzards were not occupying the colony – which would explain 

why they were sat around in such numbers all over the rest of the desert! Vladimir found our only 

Desert Wheatears of the trip and there were also Pied and Isabelline Wheatears. A surprise was a 

family of Shorelarks! More Mongolian Trumpeter Finches appeared and we saw more than 

twenty in the end. As it warmed up – quite rapidly and strongly after ten o’clock, Steppe Runners 

became common and a couple of Sunwatchers were found – these strange rather rotund and spiky 

looking agamids do just that – they seem to watch the sun with one eye! 

We returned towards camp at around eleven passing a most extraordinary scene on the way. An 

elegant pair of Demoiselle Cranes were seen by the lake shore. We stopped to watch and only 

then noticed the foot-high chick pottering slowly off into the desert! A little further on were two 

more Demoiselle Cranes and then a superb White-tailed Eagle which was the victim of an 

attempted mugging by several Black Kites. 

The cool water’s of the lake were very welcome when we returned to camp and cooled us off 

nicely for Olga’s rather excellent lunch – we had already realised that we were going to be in for a 

fine time of it with her excellent camp meals. During lunch we noted four Dalmatian Pelicans, a 

Red-crested Pochard, two Upland Buzzards and some Gull-billed Terns! In the midday heat one 

or two of us looked at the intriguing flora growing around our camp. In the damp areas pale pink 

flowered tamarisk was roundly outshone by a near relative, Myricaria bracteata, with pink wands 

of flowers emerging from the water. Tiny blue forget-me-not flowers belonged to Lappula 

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squarrosa and rounded masses of tiny white flowers to Gypsophila paniculata. On areas with 

little other vegetation the pinky-white flowers of Hypecoum lactiflorum (?), a tiny relative of the 

poppies, was in good flower. 

In the afternoon we set out for the ‘spring on the hill’ with the news that Yuri had seen a Houbara 

Bustard not much more than a kilometre east of our camp. Just two kilometres from the camp in 

the other direction we came to halt as a White-winged Lark flew across in front of us. Sadly we 

were unable to relocate this one but a little further on down the track and another more amenable 

one appeared allowing most of us to at least get a look at the bird. We passed about 40 Black 

Larks in this section and nearing the village the numbers of Upland Buzzards and Black Kites 

rose! As we traversed a gravelly plain near the hill we made a quick stop for a Saker Falcon but 

two Demoiselle Cranes and about ten Pallas’s Sandgrouse were deemed too commonplace to stop 

for! 

The spring showed up clearly as an un-naturally green looking area on the side of the hill. As we 

approached we could see swarms of Rose-coloured Starlings flying in to drink and a Steppe 

Buzzard and a Steppe Eagle rose from the ground and sailed away. The Rose-coloured Starlings 

were amazing. They were coming in from the east at the rate of perhaps thirty or forty birds a 

minute and were noisily congregating around one of the two little open pools amidst reeds and 

sedges. A single noisy Redshank also occupied this site and certainly wanted to let everyone 

know about it! The spring was clearly rather salty judging by the vegetation roundabout – lots of 

Halimione verrucifera (?) as well as Triglochin maritimus, Blysmus rufus and Eleocharis 

uniglumis. There were leaves of an Iris species, seeding Hyoscyamus pusillus and flowering 

Dodartia orientalis too. Lesser Kestrels flew over the hill and on a little walk up onto the hill I 

saw at least five very confiding Grey-necked Buntings and a Mongolian Trumpeter Finch. Nary a 

sandgrouse came in to drink and it was difficult to tell whether we’d missed them already, or they 

had not yet arrived or indeed even if they came at all? As we left we started encountering lots of 

them on the gravelly plain and it seems as if leaving by 7.45 was perhaps too early at this time of 

year and that they might be coming in later? Certainly there were perhaps forty birds a kilometre 

or so from the spring. 

The last couple of miles were amazing. Two White-winged Larks were again seen and of course 

lots of Black Larks as well as Calandra Lark – we had seen eight species of lark during the day! 

Two Demoiselle Cranes were by the lake shore. A large bird in flight appeared ahead of us – a lot 

of white in the wing as it turned – a male Houbara Bustard! We jumped out of the vehicle but it 

was soon away over the hill. 

During the evening a storm was brewing in the distance. Rumbles of thunder and some 

spectacular lightening could be seen in the distance. As we ate dinner the wind got up and it 

became a rather comical battle to hold the open-sided mess tent down. I went out for a night walk 

around eleven not really expecting to see much as the conditions made it difficult to listen for 

anything. However the next hour and a half proved that the desert was in fact jumping at this time 

of night! I saw in excess of a hundred mammals in this time – all of them jerboas. By far the 

commonest was the Great Jerboa, a jerboa that can really leap! The biggest adults of this species 

have bodies the size of a slim-line guinea pig with fine long ears and a tail up to 20cm long and 

long kangeroo-like back legs. The tail has a distinctive tuft on it which in this species is largely 

white with a black tip. In the torch light these wonderful animals took no notice of me 

whatsoever, often hopping right up to me or even brushing past me as they went by – boing … 

boing …boing! One even allowed me to pat it on the head! There was at least one Lesser Jerboa 

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too (different tail pattern) and at least two of another type of jerboa with small rounded ears – this 

was Stelodipus telum. And a few bats too. Suddenly the storm seemed a little closer and so I 

headed back to camp. 

Day 5 June 18 th Journey to Markakol 

For an hour or so before breakfast we wandered down the spit by the camp taking stock of the 

wetlands birds. At the tip we made a count of the gulls there and came up with a minimum count 

of 56 Great Black Headed Gulls. With them were 28 Caspian Terns, their red bills shining in the 

morning sun. Eight Dalmatian Pelicans completed a rather excellent group portrait. Other good 

species noted out here were Ruddy Shelduck, Garganey, Red-crested Pochard, White-winged 

Black Terns and Kentish Plovers. Already the Sand Lizards were becoming very active – there 

were some very large bright green males here. A tiny snake was found though we’ll have to wait 

for the pictures to identify it! There were very clear Wolf and Badger tracks in the muddy lagoon 

fringes. 

We left at around ten thirty after a hearty breakfast. In the first few kilometres we saw three 

White-tailed Eagles, a couple of Long-legged Buzzards, the usual Black Larks and two Pallas’s 

Sandgrouse. 

Eventually we reached the tarmac road again. Owen pointed out Trachomitum lancifolium, a 

relative of the milkweeds, here. Then we headed on towards the Chinese border. We stopped by a 

big river – big mistake. There were literally thousands of little black flies that though they didn’t 

bite pestered us so much that more than a couple of minutes outside the UAZs was unbearable! 

Our driver, Sasha, seemed to have a particular dislike for these swarming insects and drove off at 

high speed whilst swatting the flies out of the window. Now we could see an ever-growing line of 

sand dunes in the distance. This was the Akkum Desert – all in China. We approached to within a 

mile or so of this and stopped at the checkpoint where our passports were taken inside a building 

staffed by soldiers wearing net curtains over their heads! Needless to say being outside for more 

than a minute was too much for Sasha and he drove us on leaving our passports and Valery with 

the soldiers while we stopped to stock up on water. 

Now we drove along the northern edge of the dunes (though sadly they were always a kilometre 

away from us) with the two fences marking the border with China sometimes right by the side of 

the road. Then the road, which was no longer tarmac, started to rise towards what is known as the 

Marble Pass. The increasing clamour for a stop in the back of our UAZ was quelled by a nod and 

a wink from Sasha who assured us that the best views were from the top – and of course, he was 

right. The vista back over the sand dunes and into China was quite extraordinary – one could see 

the dunes, some of which must have approached a thousand feet in height, stretching away from 

us in an oval for some twenty kilometres. Then was a greener area where presumably the Black 

Irtysh flowed towards Zaysan and then in the far distance towards the Tarbagatai Mountains was 

an even bigger sand dune system! Whilst Olga set about making lunch (it was already nearly 

4pm!) we investigated the flora. Wim was immediately homing in on some tulips in seed – one of 

which had not long finished flowering. The two species encountered here were probably Tulipa 

heteropetala (?) and Tulipa patens (?) There was also a striking iris that had finished flowering a 

couple of weeks beforehand – this seemed to be Iris tigridia. Peonies too had recently finished 

and it was with a little surprise that we realised that these were different from those in the 

Kalbinskiy Hills, this plant having much more dissect leaves and being smaller and more squat in 

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habit – Paeonia hybrida. A male Rock Bunting perched upon rocks festooned in Sedum hybridum 

and aromatic Ziziphora clinopodioides. There were some striking yellow flowers here – 

Hypericums elongatum, scabrum and perforatum all in very large flowered forms and a rather 

elegant yellow valerian – Patrinia intermedia. Amongst honeysuckles and spirea we found some 

stunning plants – Martagon Lilies in full flower, the almost black-flowered False Helleborine 

(Veratrum nigrum), the linear-leaved Dracocephalum ruyschiana, Eremurus altaicus, blue Allium 

caesium, a striking Delphinium and perhaps rarest was the endemic Daphne altaica. A large 

Cardinal butterfly posed near the excellent soup that Olga had provided. 

The landscape became rapidly greener as we headed further into the Altai and meadows with lush 

shows of bright orange Trollius altaicus and white Alpine Knotgrass became dominant. Black 

Stork and a Viper were seen en route but we had little time to stop now. Past a little village (the 

only one between the Chinese border and Markakol) trees started to appear – willows along the 

water courses and Siberian Larch on the hillsides. We pushed on up the final pass, now richly 

wooded with the larch and Picea obovata, and made a brief stop here. Iris ruthenica was 

flowering in glorious abundance and with it the stunning Dracocephalum grandiflora, a few of 

the lovely yellow Papaver nudicaule and the huge flowered Aquilegia glandulosa. As we drove 

down the pretty valley to Markakol we passed some fine shows of Primula longiscapa. 

The village (Urunkhayka) on the shores of the lake was something quite different from those 

we’d seen up to now – for a start everything was made of wood! The houses were built in the 

Siberian style and indeed with seven months of snow and intense cold in the winter (down to – 

55°C this last winter and with snow lying up to twenty metres deep in sheltered hollows) the 

lifestyle and climate are certainly more akin to that part of the world than to the rest of 

Kazakhstan. A last river crossing saw us pulling up into the fenced compound that is the 

headquarters of the National Park here. We were introduced to our home for the next few days, a 

basic but pleasant cottage (next door to Tatyana who is collaborating with Anna Ivaschenko on a 

flora for the area) and two yourtas beautifully situated on a small island in the river behind. These 

were surrounded by Silver Birches and made a real picture. The wooden built sauna in the back 

garden was puffing away and so we took it in turns to either enjoy a good wash or sauna and then 

it was time for another of Olga’s meals, this one accompanied by local caviar on toast – we had 

already noticed the fish (a kind of trout or char) spawning in gravelly shallows by the yourtas. An 

idyllic spot! 

Day 6 June 19 th Markakol 

The whole morning was spent walking along a track which skirts the southern edge of the lake. It 

was immediately apparent that we were in a landscape of extraordinary beauty with lush green 

meadows interspersed with woods of Siberian Larch, Picea obovata and Silver Birch, the latter 

dominating along streams and in boggy areas. The huge lake stretched out mirror-calm before us 

and there was a line of snow-capped peaks above the northern shores. And other than the village 

we were in we couldn’t see any habitation! 

We started with a little assault course to get across the many tributaries of our little anastomising 

river (!) then a fine wide track took us through said meadows and woodlands. Black Kites were 

immediately obvious and in fact were a more or less constant accompaniment in the village and 

lakeshore area – we saw them swooping down to the lake surface to take prey items (notice that 

I’ve hesitated to say catch fish!). Two stunning Black Storks perched briefly in dead larches 

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efore sailing away. On the lake’s surface we could see plenty of wildfowl. Close inshore were a 

group of female and immature Red-breasted Mergansers and Garganey, Wigeon, Tufted Ducks, 

Shoveler, Gadwall, Pintail, Ruddy Shelduck, Mallard and a few Goldeneye. Using the ’scope we 

discovered that few wasn’t a word we could apply to the Goldeneye as there was in excess of five 

hundred in the middle of the lake – and these were mostly males in breeding dress. In the 

honeysuckles and peonies all around us a chuntering was evident – Blyth’s Reed Warblers were 

abundant though we rarely got much of a look at them. Scarlet Rosefinches were almost equally 

common and easier to see. Oriental Turtle Doves flew by and we also noted Red-backed Shrikes, 

Raven and heard several Greenish Warblers. Cuckoos had been appearing from time to time and 

calling frequently but it took us a while to realise that the somnolent “hoo hoo hoo” call in the 

background that rather had the timbre of Hoopoe was in fact Oriental Cuckoo, here right on the 

edge of its range. 

About a kilometre from the village we encountered fresh (during the night or early morning) 

tracks of two Brown Bears where they’d crossed the road. 

The meadows were a picture with abundant pink blossoms of Paeonia anomala everywhere – 

thousands upon thousands of them – and the tall spikes of Veratrum lobelioides still in bud. 

Striking Corydalis nobilis grew along the tracksides as did two ‘umbellate’ annual ‘rockjasmines’, 

Androsace lactiflora and the altogether more slender septentriale. A large gagea of the 

fistulosa group was with them. In damp areas under birch we found the meadow saxifrage like 

Saxifraga punctata often growing with Bog Violet! Another viola was common along the track – 

the beautiful bi-coloured flowers of Viola disjuncta, the pale mauve lower petals (with a yellow 

centre) contrasting with the usually dark purple uppers, though on some these were almost black, 

making a most beautiful combination. The honeysuckle (Lonicera tartarica) here was quite 

amazing – it was covered in a mass of pink flowers – sometimes obscuring much of the foliage. 

This plant could be seen colouring hillsides in the distance. 

With all the flowers about it was not surprising that a few butterflies might appear. Whites were 

pre-eminent with Black-veined and Green-veined the commonest. Ubiquitous Yellow-legged and 

Small Tortoiseshells often sunned themselves on the path and in addition we saw Mazarine Blue 

and Queen-of-Spain Fritillary. These are all early species or ones that tend to be at high altitudes 

so it looked as if we would be too early for many butterflies here but events over the next few 

days showed that in fact there were a very many different species and that it was aspect that was 

important as it is for plants. Here we had been walking along a north-facing slope and it was still 

early spring here! 

We took a good long lunch break (after the length of the first few days some relaxation was 

needed!) and then spent the afternoon pottering along the northwards track out of Urunkhayka. It 

was quite hot and so we took our time. Several good butterflies were seen – attracted to the wet 

patches on the road. Lapland Fritillary was photographed and we saw both local species of Wood 

White sitting next to each other! Leptidea morsei has fuzzy looking dark cross bars on the 

underside hindwing and attenuated forewings and is quite easily distinguished from the 

widespread Leptidea sinapsis. Pearl-bordered Fritillary, the tortoiseshells again, Osiris Blue and 

our only Spialia skipper of the trip (orbifer) were seen. We spent some time watching Yellowbrowed 

Warblers at close range in the trees and other birds seen were Yellowhammer, House 

Martins and lots of (Altai) Lesser Whitethroats. 

9

Later that night I went for a night walk along the morning’s track. Birds were surprisingly noisy – 

Blyth’s Reed Warblers do most of their singing at night. A Black Stork was woken from its 

slumbers by my torch and several rodents scurried into the undergrowth without me getting a 

proper look at them. I went as far as the bear tracks and here found three Mountain Hares on the 

track – one of them came right up to me – and stopped within touching distance! 

Day 7 June 20 th Markakol 

The day dawned fine and sunny (as it had all trip so far!) and so we headed for the Holodny 

(Cold) Pass which at 1750m is some 300m in altitude above the village. We walked out past 

ladies hand milking their cows and a couple of horseman who trotted along the only street. As we 

started to gain altitude a group of foresters overtook us though we encountered them relaxing and 

chatting under a tree further up! Not many foreigners about here! 

Practically the first butterfly we noted was a superb apollo, this one of the medium sized species 

with red eyespots – Parnassius ariadne – here with plenty of Corydalis, its larval host plant. We 

continued up through multitudes of pink peonies and honeysuckle with the constituents of the 

flora slowly changing as we went. Iris ruthenica became common, particularly along any eroded 

stream banks as did Jacobs Ladder and white forms of Hesperis sibirica. A large marshy flat held 

the cotton grass Eriophorum polystachium (?) and several Common Spotted Orchids and it was 

here that Owen found a single plant of Early Marsh Orchid. However it wasn’t until the last half a 

kilometre that things began to change noticeably on the floral front. The meadows changed 

character and now contained many new plants with Alchemilla scalaris, the lovely Bupleurum 

aureum and the strange red five-leaved clover, Trifolium lupinaster amongst them. The striking 

Rhaponticum carthamoides grew in the thickest herbage. As we neared the pass there were 

striking shows of Aquilegia glandulosa and Antennaria dioica and with them our first gentian of 

the trip, the bladder-gentian-like Gentiana uniflora which formed little colonies amongst low 

vegetation on the pass itself. 

Back down the hill we had been admiring the butterflies. Again the wet patches on the tracks 

proved a magnet for them in the morning sun and certainly it made life easy for us! Emphasising 

the links with Europe were the first Map Butterflies of the trip as well as abundant Small Blues, 

Osiris Blues and Mazarine Blues. The local wood white Leptidea morsei was again seen several 

times and with the blues was a single Amanda’s Blue – dwarfing its close relatives! There were 

yet more new species for the holiday in the form of Assmann’s Fritillary and the local form of 

Marsh Fritillary. 

As during the previous day there were numerous Cuckoos about and again we heard the subdued 

tones of Oriental Cuckoo. An approximate translation of the Russian name for this bird is ‘deaf 

cuckoo’ which we supposed might be in reference to that fact that you really don’t even notice 

that it is calling until you think about it! Much more obvious were Black-throated Thrushes who’s 

loud ringing alarm calls were at times rather reminiscent of woodpeckers. Willow Tits were found 

at several points during the ascent and one had a nest in a trackside tree as did a Mistle Thrush 

who’s abode didn’t escape Yuri’s searching eyes. 

Once on the pass we consumed our picnics and rested in the warm sunshine until we had enough 

breath back to wander around! A little way up into the spruces on the south side of the pass we 

encountered a spectacular new Gentian with large blue trumpets borne singly on short stems – the 

10

flowers being ‘pyrenean gentian’ in type with five plicae between the five lobes. This lovely plant 

goes under the name of Gentiana grandiflora which seemed apt! Some were also found down 

amongst the Gentiana uniflora seen upon on the pass, though those that didn’t manage to see 

them needn’t have worried as there were tens of thousands yet to be seen on the tour! 

Vladimir and I went a little further up into the trees and Vladimir managed a sighting of one of 

the many Altai Pikas who’s alarm calls were emanating from a bouldery slope within the trees. 

Just above these boulders we came across a fine show of the beautiful yellow Iris bloudowii and 

then yards away by the only remaining square metre of snow on this hill, a patch of flowering 

Erythronium sibiricum – the Siberian Dogs-tooth Violet – a pretty picture indeed with pink, white 

and yellow flowers set atop a reddish stem and two marbled leaves. A Red Squirrel got extremely 

angry with us and we were worried that it would burst so forthright was its indignation. Above 

the snowpatch we suddenly heard a quiet tapping and there, upon a decaying spruce, was a female 

Northern Three-toed Woodpecker, working away just five metres from us. Across the other side 

of the pass we pushed our way through some mosquito-ridden trees and came out on a slope 

above a stream. Here there was an area of ‘tundra’ – Betula rotundifolia – and growing around the 

edge of it was lots of Callianthemum angustifolium. Down by the stream were fine specimens of 

Primula longiscapa and over on the dry slope opposite a striking bright pink Hedysarum. 

As we descended we found a single male Pine Bunting singing away as we neared the village and 

Clive and Sina saw Erebia cyclopius, a rather well-named ringlet species. 

Day 8 June 21 st Markakol 

We awoke to rain! Actually it wasn’t very rainy, just a light rain that came and went. After 

breakfast we decided to have a look at the pass that we’d come over en route to Markakol and 

duly set off unsure as to whether the clouds were lifting or not. We parked up just over the pass 

and headed up through decidedly wet vegetation to the west. The rain was very light so we could 

at least have a good look around though photography would be difficult. We saw many of the 

same flowers we’d seen the day before although the displays of certain species were quite 

exceptional, particularly the abundant and sometimes dense groups of blue Iris ruthenica. We 

again came across some yellow Iris bloudowii looking a picture with drops of water on the 

bearded yellow falls. Vladimir found a Capercaillie family and actually had one of the chicks in 

his hands – the female stayed close by and most of us managed a good look at her at some point. 

Above us a male Hen Harrier quartered the hillside. Then it started to rain harder! 

We returned to Markakol and a bit of a break before lunch in which to change into some drier 

clothes! By the river there were still some butterflies including another Map Butterfly and a very 

very tatty Camberwell Beauty! The weather was improving now and after a bite to eat it had 

cheered up immensely so we set forth, this time Sasha and Valery driving us a couple of miles to 

the north where a dry south-facing slope looked an attractive though steep proposition. This 

proved a good spot for butterflies with our first sightings of Chequered Blue – there was 

obviously a good colony here. Two Small Apollos drifted over the slopes – some nearby rocky 

areas were covered in their foodplant, Sedum hybridum. Hungarian Gliders and more Assmann’s 

Fritillaries were seen though the commonest butterfly was undoubtedly the Geranium Argus often 

obligingly perching on Geranium collinum. Melitaea latonigena, a bright orange fritillary, was 

also quite common. There were quite a lot of different plants here – several different alliums, a 

rather pretty little onosma, Gooseberry and Potentilla asiatica. There were fine stands of the 

11

Burning Bush, a strikingly long–bracted form of Frog Orchid (subspecies ‘longibracteata’?) and 

Owen found a new iris in the form of the blue Iris scariosa (?). Some of the group saw a female 

Black Grouse and most of us saw the very distant Black Stork that was flying around against 

storm clouds gathering behind the lake. 

Day 9 June 22 nd Markakol 

We spent the day exploring the nearest parts of the ‘Austrian Road’. This track had been built by 

prisoners of war from central Europe during the first world war – and in places looked like there 

had been no maintenance since! Actually every year they must have to do some work on this road 

as the quantity of water crossing the road in places from snowmelt must be phenomenal to say 

nothing of damage from heat, cold and sudden intense storms! 

Our first stop was on a dry hillside where Geranium Argus and Mazarine Blues were both 

common amongst some fine flowering Patrinia intermedia, Hypericum elongatum and 

Campanula altaica. Corncrakes called from the marsh below and there were several Scarlet 

Rosefinches in willows by the stream. 

Next we stopped amid a belt of trees that formed a neatly edged belt of riverine forest right by the 

beginning of said Austrian Road. Jane and Jeremy had a spot of luck here in that they actually 

managed to get a good look at one of Oriental Cuckoos that called from the impressive Populus 

laurifolius trees. More familiar birds in here were Chaffinch, Willow Tit, Grey Wagtail and 

Mistle Thrush. Amongst the trees grew Prunus padus, Large-leaved Bittercress, Osier, Salix 

caesia/rorida, Aspen and Gnaphalium sylvaticum. The introduction to the Austrian road comes as 

something of a shock for by far the worst bit is the first half a kilometre where the vehicles 

basically have to negotiate a rocky river bed before the track itself becomes more recognisable. 

Indeed it is generally not bad thereafter apart from a few rough bits where water crosses the road. 

We stopped only just past this first section as a dead animal under a tree caught our attention. A 

Wolverine! We made a couple of stops during the next seven kilometres and then found a lovely 

breezy knoll just below the top upon which we had our picnic – the breeze keeping the 

mosquitoes at bay perfectly! A couple of Steppe Buzzards sailed overhead and the odd Black Kite 

too. A male Hen Harrier sailed across the slopes and a couple of horsemen passed us as we sat 

there enjoying a rather fine noodle based lunch! The afternoon was spent walking back down the 

road, though most of us spent quite a while up on the ridgetop before descending. Up here there 

was a pile of what was probably Wolf dung and just over the top of the ridge some late snow 

patches held several flowering Erythronium sibiricum and Anemone altaica. A hill-topping 

European Swallowtail was a first on the holiday. Rocks had Orostachis spinosa, deep blue 

Veronica porphyriana, yellow Pedicularis tristis and some lovely patches of Atragane (Clematis) 

sibirica. A Sparrowhawk sailed over as we descended through swathes of spirea and lonicera. 

The road proved a fantastic spot for butterflies (as it did in the morning) and the various wet 

patches attracted a wide range of species. By several of the patches there were significant 

numbers of blues. Mazarine, Osiris and Small Blue formed the bulk though we also saw a 

Maculinea species, several Geranium Arguses (though these never seemed to come down to the 

tracks), Mountain Argus and a beautiful little blue that bore a strong resemblance to Polyommatus 

cyane – though it may be something else – we await the photo ID! There were occasional Small 

Skippers and several Large Grizzled Skippers that favoured one particular patch. A delicate and 

rather beautiful Chequered Skipper joined one group of blues. Yellow-legged Tortoiseshells and 

12

Small Tortoiseshells were abundant – sometimes half a dozen at a puddle and there were 

occasional Map Butterflies, Hungarian Gliders and a Comma. Several apollos sailed up and down 

the road banks but were shy of settling so I can only presume that they were probably Small 

Apollos – they certainly looked like them in flight and there was plenty of food plant about! The 

lovely Erebia theano was quite common and we spotted a rather similar looking ringlet without 

the orange patches near the body characteristic of theano – this was Erebia kindermanii. Both 

Large and Northern Wall Brown were seen as well as both local wood whites and Orange-tip. The 

fritillaries were pretty good too with plenty of Glanville Fritillaries and Melitaea latonigena, and 

occasional Assmann’s. The Asian Fritillary, a very beautiful butterfly, deigned to sit upon Sina’s 

hand and just near it was Melitaea arcesia, a diminutive Euphydryas species look-a-like. 

There were patches of forest down the road and in these we found a flora we had not yet 

encountered – much more Siberian/European than we had seen at Markakol. Here was 

Twinflower (nearly in flower) and lots of Pyrola minor as well as Moschatel and Bilberry. An 

elegant columbine lived under the sun-dappled woodland, looking rather like a common 

columbine – this was Aquilegia brevicalcarata. Siberian Chipmunks scolded from these same 

spots and we even managed to get a decent look at one or two. Bogs by the road held some 

familiar plants such as Juncus filiformis and Scirpus sylvatica and some not quite so – Swertia 

obtusa in bud and Sagina saginoides. 

As we returned to Markakol the heavens opened and it poured down – enough for the rivers 

around our yourta island to turn a deep brown and rise a foot! The rain did not last so long but it 

took until late evening for the river to disgorge the results! 

Day 10 June 23 rd The Burkhat Pass and the bee farm at Kamenka 

After breakfast we spent half an hour around the reserve’s museum which was an interesting 

experience though it was sad to see the state of many of the stuffed birds. Then it was time for the 

off and goodbyes to both Tatyanas and the reserve compound. The heavy showers of the evening 

before hadn’t altered our plans (a later river crossing had to be considered) so we set off about 

9.15 passing the east shore of Markakol Lake and thence into the rolling meadows and mountains 

to the north and once again to lock horns with the Austrian road. Seemed a lot tamer this morning 

– familiarity breeds …..! We didn’t stop until we’d reached the main river whose course we 

would follow up to the pass. Male Pine Bunting and several Ortolan Buntings were seen here as 

well as fine displays of Papaver nudicaule and Astragalus alpinus. Our second Erebia cyclopius 

was found here. 

Then it was off up a really pretty valley during which we crossed the main river five times on 

some surprisingly well made bridges. Butterflies flew up from in front of us as we passed groups 

of both the white and pink forms of Hesperis sibirica and little patches of Myricaria bracteata in 

deep pink bloom. Eventually we reached the subalpine plateau below the pass and made the last 

crossing of the river – quite deep water and rocky here! The plateau was a picture with wide open 

vistas surrounded by snowy mountains. And it was covered in flowers! Sadly there was no time to 

stop and enjoy this as the Burkhat would be even better – and the weather around us looked 

decidedly dodgy with a large rainstorm a little off to the west and seemingly on its way towards 

us. Fifteen minutes of driving up a steady slope and we were there. Vladimir’s vehicle saw Longtailed 

Suslik and Altai Pika crossing the track in front of them. On either side were three main 

habitats – tundra, alpine grasslands and snow! Much to Olga’s consternation we parked up right 

13

on the pass itself. “Why not in the trees below?” she said – admittedly it was quite an exposed 

spot in which to cook the lunch. While she got on with this we headed towards the east side of the 

pass and the tundra. There was a large expanse of snow-burnt grassland beside the road and this 

had plenty of both colour forms of the large-flowered Viola altaica – and as we had approached 

the pass this grassland had been covered in the most amazing display of Dracocephalum 

grandiflorum. The tundra was basically a mat of dwarf birch between 30cm and a metre in height 

and was pretty difficult to walk through. Owen and Vladimir saw several voles, Microtus 

gregorica, as they walked. Tree and Water Pipits were both common, and we soon started seeing 

Bluethroats – here a red spotted form. They were quite common and flashes of their red tails 

could be seen as we progressed through the tundra. As we reached the first snow patch the first 

great display of Gentiana grandiflora appeared and with these was a little pale purple Veronica 

and a rather pretty shiny foliaged buttercup – Ranunculus altaicus. By the next snowpatch was a 

wonderful display of Erythronium sibiricum in full flower. Several of us reached some patches of 

drier grassland and tundra above the snowpatches. This had an extremely rich and beautiful 

display of flowers. Amid the sparser betula here was a ‘heath community’ featuring Cowberry, 

some lovely pink forms of Round-leaved Wintergreen, and in a few places, the little white 

flowers of Claytonia joanneana. The open grassy areas were home to mats of Dryas oxyodonta 

(like our Wind Flower), yellow-flowered Thermopsis alpina, two gorgeous louseworts in the 

form of Pedicularis oederi and compacta and two very confusing plants, both with spikes of tiny 

cream or white flowers – one was Macropodium nivale and the other Lagotis integrifolia. The 

former is a crucifer and the latter is in the scroph family! There was also a lovely bright red 

Hedysarum, another anemone of the ‘narcissiflora’ group, Anemone crinita (?), and near snow 

again, the lovely anemone-like Callianthemum angustifolium. 

We returned to a nice warming lunch by the UAZs. The weather was steadily improving, the large 

rainstorm had passed by to our south and we’d only suffered a brief light shower – and now it was 

pretty sunny. The mountain away to our west looked spectacular and so after the soup and various 

other comestibles we headed west up a grassy slope next to numerous large snowpatches. This 

proved to be an exceptional area not least because right by the lowest patch of birch Jane R 

flushed a male Siberian Rubythroat. Sadly it didn’t reappear though Clive, who spent the early 

afternoon searching for this bird did see a female as did I from a little higher up the slope. 

Bluethroats were common here too and a nice find was of several Dusky Warblers which foraged 

in and sang from the few small Siberian Pines which grow out of the tundra. A Red Fox with a 

coat of red and grey sauntered off from the edge of the snow patches whilst Hen Harriers and 

Black Kites were seen at regular intervals. Other birds seen during the early afternoon were 

Twite, Linnet, Stonechat and at least two Hodgson’s Rosy Finches (aka Plain Mountain Finch). 

Only one species of butterfly braved these high slopes – Oeneis nanna! After passing some fine 

thick patches of Viola altaica, we were called to the most extraordinary Erythronium – around 

20cm tall and with a huge 7-petalled flower – this one was thoroughly photographed. Further up 

were masses of the lovely Aquilegia glandulosa and Dracocephalum grandiflorum colouring the 

slope blue, and nearer to the snow was again lots of the Gentiana grandiflora. Jeremy found a 

fine pale pink form of the latter. Meanwhile Philippa had found some Frog Orchids. These had 

exceptionally long bracts and Owen commented that they looked not unlike the form 

‘longibracteata’ found in North America. Dwarf yellow Patrinia sibirica flowered well on dry 

rocky areas, often with Anemone crinita(?) and both Saxifraga punctata(?) and Saxifraga 

sibirica, and on the rocky knolls, abundant Bergenia crassifolia or Elephant-ears! The views to 

the north were amazing. The deep rift of the Bukhtarma Valley dropped very steeply below us 

and the northern part of the Altai stretched out along its northern flank – culminating in the 

massive white peak of Belukha itself – all of 4506m plus high! 

14

We made a brief stop just below the pass at the top of the Siberian Pine forest. It didn’t take long 

for a Nutcracker to appear! Also Willow Tits and Yellow-browed Warblers and a most confiding 

Siberian Chipmunk! 

Then it was down the steep slope and into the Bukhtarma Valley. No time for more stops, though 

of course we had to investigate the little snake that a Red-backed Shrike had just caught. This 

proved to be a 20cm long Adder which seems a little tricky for a Red-backed Shrike to be 

tackling. Shortly after we watched as a Black Kite tried to out-manoeuvre a Stonechat in mid-air! 

Then we were down on tarmac again for the first time in many days. We drove westwards along 

the Bukhtarma Valley before going off road again and crossing to the northern side of the large 

river. The it was off on what seemed a long drive o’er hill and down dale – every time we thought 

we’d espied camp we just continued on past. A couple of Imperial Eagles soared low over the 

hilly landscape. The bee farm was in a wonderful setting. In a deep steep-sided valley where the 

Bukhtarma River plunged through the hills, the log cabins, a sauna (of course!) and our yourtas 

all sat by the banks of the river. As we settled into our ‘boys’ yourta we added another couple of 

butterfly species in the form of Chestnut Heath and False Ringlet. 

Day 11 June 24 th Burkhat Pass 

Though it was a two hour journey back to the top of the pass we all agreed that it was such a good 

area that we should go back there – and of course we’d spotted one or two likely looking spots en 

route! 

The drive back to the main road instigated a new game between the UAZs. The morning suslik 

count. We passed a couple of colonies of these endearing creatures. Vladimir’s UAZ won the day 

with a count of 17. The journey seemed much shorter in the morning and we were soon on the 

tarmac. The day’s first main stop was by a marshy area near the town. Ostensibly this was to 

check out the orchids growing there. These proved to be of an as yet unidentified species (by us) 

of marsh orchid. A big surprise was another rather less obvious orchid species – Musk Orchid! 

This was flowering in exceptional numbers and in places there were clumps of perhaps twenty or 

thirty of them. However there was much more to be seen than this. Another species of 

Thermopsis was in flower as was Campanula sibirica and a really strange little plant with 

yellowish-white flowers with four lanceolate lobes and an obvious spur – we didn’t really know 

for sure which family to put this in at the time but Owen eventually tracked it down to the 

Gentianaceae. The name - Halenia corniculata. Beautiful Parnassia palustris was in flower and 

there were two species of blue-flowered Scutellarias. There were blue butterflies everywhere – 

virtually all the same species though! It was an extensive colony of Silver-studded Blues. Some 

fine large frits were Dark Green Fritillaries and up on the roadside was at least one Lesser 

Marbled Fritillary. A Montagu’s Harrier coursed past us and there were several Yellow Wagtails 

present. As we drove off I saw a male Yellow-breasted Bunting fly up off the side of the road. 

Then it was off up the pass. We pursued a Black Woodpecker along the track for a few seconds 

before it dived off through the trees. We made a stop some two-thirds of the way up and walked 

along the track for twenty minutes. Nutcrackers called several times and along the trackside were 

numerous ringlets, Erebia jeniseiensis. The lovely little umbels of Cortusa altaica grew on the 

roadside cutting with some fine clumps of Aquilegia brevicalcarata, and on one bend, a 

15

tremendous display of Papaver nudicaule, here for some reason appearing in a bewildering array 

of yellows and oranges and even almost white and pinky-orange! 

We drove on up to the top of the pass in time for our picnic lunch. Immediately post lunch several 

of us aimed for the rocky pinnacles surrounded by snow on the crest of the ridge to our east. I 

took what appeared to be some kind of vehicle track through the tundra and in amongst the 

topmost knot of Siberian Pines found a lovely male Siberian Rubythroat singing away on top of 

one of the smaller pines. Just above were Mistle Thrushes, Black-throated Thrush, Hen Harrier 

and Yellow-browed Warblers and up on the snow itself were four Hodgson’s Rosy Finches. 

Amongst a wealth of different dwarf willows and a wide selection of the plants noted the day 

before Owen and Vladimir found Gentiana aquatica, a very tiny sky-blue gentian as well as 

Bottle Sedge, another cotton grass in the form of Eriophorum russoleum, several nice ferns and 

the pretty yellow-flowered Rhodiola rosea. Meanwhile … back on the other side of the road, 

Jeremy and Jane had finally found Ptarmigan and were dutifully doing the Ptarmigan imitations 

as instructed – a sight enjoyed by Clive and Sina who decided not to descend and look for the 

gamebird concerned! They and Vladimir had seen a Black Vulture fly over – an uncommon bird 

in these parts. Further searching in this area revealed several good butterflies such as Asian 

Fritillary, Swallowtail and Pyrgus serratulae. 

Most of us spent the latter part of the afternoon walking down the track through the Siberian 

Pines, Owen even making it virtually all the way down to the valley grasslands! Near the top there 

were several Nutcrackers and Willow Tits in the trees and a superb male Eversmann’s Redstart – 

not really a typical habitat for this bird. A little further down and the Black Vulture flew past 

again – another raptor appeared briefly with it and I presumed this to be another, but those on the 

top – Clive, Sina and Margaret – saw it much better – it was in fact a Steppe Eagle. Margaret also 

managed two Upland Buzzards here. There were plenty of butterflies on the slope include many 

of the aforementioned Erebia jeniseiensis and lots of apollos none of which stopped long enough 

to be identified. As Vladimir’s vehicle came down through the woods they saw Hazelhen on the 

track in front of them! There were many fine plants seen on the way down – memorable was a 

group of Snowdon Lilies growing in a tight clump on the roadside cutting. 

Eventually we reached the bee farm where the sauna was up and going as usual. I pottered about 

on the slopes nearby for a while finding an iris and a tulipa species in seed, a Common 

Sandpipers nest with four eggs and a new butterfly perched on the side of one of the cabins – 

Lopinga achine. 

Day 12 June 25 th Kamenka to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

An early morning walk produced little of interest in the bird line around the bee farm – 

Chaffinches, Great Tits and Chiffchaff! There were some fine male Pine Buntings singing from 

the shrubbery above though. Two Rose-coloured Starlings sat upon one of the sheds and an early 

morning Imperial Eagle sailed along the ridge. We discovered the nasty stinging nettle Urtica 

cannabina was quite common around the camp, growing amidst the abundant Cannabis that 

populated any fallow land here! 

On the way out to the main road we confirmed that some of the buntings singing in the shrubbery 

were Meadow Buntings as we had suspected. 

16

We drove some way east along the main road towards the Mongolian and Russian border until we 

reached a police checkpoint where we had our passports checked and then after fifteen minutes or 

so we continued. The landscape was amazing here, lots of rocky hills, woodlands, river valleys 

and all backed by high mountains. Not far on down the road we came across a dead horse which 

was providing a feast for lots of Black Kites and several vultures. At least six Black Vultures sat 

around on rocks near the road as did three Griffon Vultures (now this is a rare vulture in the 

Altai!) and a single Imperial Eagle. It was a wonderful opportunity to see all these magnificent 

birds at close range. With the kites on the carcass was a single Hungarian Glider! 

Soon we passed into a forested landscape near to the river. This proved a marvellous place for 

butterflies though we hadn’t time to stop as we needed to get to Rakhmanovskie by lunchtime. 

We could only watch from the vehicles as butterflies scattered in all directions in front of us. 

There were several large black and white ones which we supposed (and were later proved correct) 

were Poplar Admirals. After many kilometres of this terrain we suddenly turned uphill and 

followed a deteriorating track high up into the hills soon passing into Siberian Pine woodland. 

Eventually we crested a rise (probably around 2000m) and saw a most wonderful scene in front of 

us – seemingly behind the next green ridge of high hills, the magnificent 4506m Belukha 

Mountain rose high into the sky – the whole of the top half of the mountain glistening white in 

the sunshine. In the foreground our track snaked off through green woods and bogs – making for 

a sensational landscape photograph. 

We arrived at the ‘resort’ at about one. After the initial difficulty in finding anybody we 

eventually came up with another Tatyana who seemed to know what was what. After we’d settled 

into our spartan rooms it was possible to take in the situation. The resort exists because there are 

hot radon springs here with supposed health giving properties though it has to be said that most of 

the visitors clearly entrusted their enjoyment of the place to vodka! Several cottages surround the 

spring and these are in the most wonderful setting – surrounded by mostly pristine Siberian Pine 

forests, mountain meadows and bogs, and above these rocky peaks. I for one could barely wait to 

get out exploring! Even as we trod the path past the springs a Siberian Rubythroat sang from atop 

a small pine down by the river. The boggy areas by the lake here were a show of flowers with 

Common Spotted Orchid in good flower and Grass of Parnassus just opening. A Chequered 

Skipper stopped only briefly. The Lake held quite a surprise – there were Velvet Scoter in some 

numbers on it! These were in good breeding plumage and the males certainly looked a picture. 

We were in for even more of a surprise shortly afterwards when we found that Black-throated 

Divers were also in residence – there can be few finer sights than these beautiful birds in full 

summer plumage. 

The path round the lake took us through some stunning Siberian Pine Forests, interspersed with 

boggy areas dominated by sphagnum. Great tassels of ‘Spanish Moss’ hung from the trees – those 

who’ve walked in cloudforests in the tropics would recognize the scene! Amongst the sphagnum 

grew patches of Gentiana grandiflora, Wood Sorrel and Saxifraga punctata. The brilliant pink 

flowers of Primula sibirica were a choice find though there were only a few of these, something 

that one couldn’t say of the clubmosses which decorated the forest floor. We encountered no less 

than four species – Stagshorn Clubmoss, Running Pine, Interrupted Clubmoss and Pine (Fir) 

Clubmoss. Lesser and Round-leaved Wintergreens were common and we also saw 

Chrysosplenium tienshanicum and Equisteum pratense. There was little in the way of birdlife to 

be seen in the trees – only some Willow Tits joining the noisy Siberian Chipmunks – however 

later I wandered up through the forest a little and found that patient birding could be rewarded 

here with some rather special species, namely a first year male Pine Grosbeak and a superb 

17

Siberian Tit. Several Crossbills flew over and a male Eversmann’s Redstart sang from a small 

tree by the edge of some big boulder scree. Back at the resort Vladimir was watching Pacific 

Swifts fly over. 

Day 13 June 26 th Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi to Bee Farm at Kamenka 

After the evening discoveries up in the forest we decided upon an early morning ‘bird walk’ up 

into the same area. Much as yesterday little happened for the first half an hour although the early 

hour meant the voracious mosquitoes had not yet materialised. As they did so too did the birds. A 

brief glimpse of a Northern Three-toed Woodpecker was followed by two stunning Pine 

Grosbeaks which performed well down to a few metres. They took little notice of us, rather living 

up to one of their colloquial names which is “Silly Fool”. Soon after a female Goshawk started 

calling in a nearby treetop and, as if she wasn’t happy about the view we had of her, she flew into 

the open for us and sat the shouting about something – absolutely stunning views – she was full 

frame in the telescope! A White-backed Woodpecker joined in to make the forest a more noisy 

place than it had seemed possible to be. 

After breakfast we started on the second of the two hard-ish walks of the trip – this one a steady 

uphill slog rising some five hundred metres in altitude. A superb Grey-headed Woodpecker called 

from a dead tree and we noted Bluethroats, Tree Pipits and Stonechats on the way up. One of the 

best birds was a Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler whose atypical ‘locustella’ song drew attention to 

it as it sang away from atop a small bush. Sadly it disappeared and none of us had the energy or 

inclination to go over and look for it! By now we were wading through great swathes of blue 

Aquilegia glandulosa. It was a truly amazing sight as perhaps a million flowering heads waved in 

the breeze. And this backed by snow-capped peaks and the forested slopes rising from the lake 

now far below us. Grey Marmots shrill warning calls could be heard on the ridge above and we 

had quite good views of them through the telescope. 

As we neared the ridgetop itself the turf grew shorter but the colour blue still predominated as 

Gentiana grandiflora took over from the aquilegia. Here it was truly abundant and it came in 

every shade of blue as well as a few almost white ones and a couple of clumps of superb pink 

specimens located by Wim. Growing in a stoney patch amongst these were some of the finest 

yellow Iris bloudowii we’d seen. Erebea ligea was common on these slopes but that was about it 

in the butterfly line. 

Once we reached the pass the views to the north were astounding. Belukha was no longer a 

distant snow-capped mountain but now rose from the folded green landscape below and climbed 

glacier clad into the sky before us. There was a lot of snow and ice on that mountain! The land in 

between us and the mountain appeared completely uninhabited as it may well be – the border 

between Russia and Kazakhstan ran somewhere along there. 

Pacific Swifts raced past us at high speed –they were so quick it was difficult to get a good look at 

them. I walked up onto some big boulder scree to the east of the pass and soon noted a large dark 

bird sat upon the skyline – I never got a really good view but it surely must have been a Great 

Rosefinch? Soon afterwards another new bird appeared – this time an Altai (also known as 

Himalayan) Accentor which was later joined by its mate. 

18

Descending through Ranunculus altaicus and the gentians we encountered more marmots and a 

huge fistulose onion standing a metre tall – probably Allium altaicum. 

After lunch at the café we set off for the Bee Farm at Kamenka. Several stops were made en route 

at places we’d ear-marked on the way up. The first was to photograph the ‘don’t set fire to bears’ 

sign. Next up was a quick count of the Velvet Scoter on the lower lake – between the two lakes 

there was at least 65 birds. Then a couple of fine specimens of Primula sibirica. Back down by 

Bukhtarma’s northern tributary we passed several more of the large black and white butterflies 

before, with Sasha’s careful driving, we managed to pull up next to one – it (and they) were 

indeed Polar Admirals and they were clearly common along this stretch of road. So too were the 

ticks as anyone who ventured off the dirt road found out! From the relative safety of the track it 

was possible to see Oak Fern growing with Equisetum hyemale and pink-flowered Myricaria 

bracteata. Landing by puddles was the distinctive Erebia cyclopius and also Large Skipper. 

We again pulled up by the dead horse which had an extraordinary number of Black Kites 

‘cleaning’ it. On the roadside cliffs were perched four Black Vultures, one of them perched 

cheek-by-jowl with a Griffon Vulture making for easy comparison. Also providing exceptional 

views was one of two Imperial Eagles. Three superb Wrynecks were spotted on fence posts as we 

followed the Bukhtarma Valley westwards. Eventually we rolled up at the bee farm in time for 

sauna and some much-anticipated food prepared by Olga. 

Day 14 June 27 th Kamenka to Ust-Kamenogorsk 

The journey back to Ust-Kamenogrosk was a long one so once we had packed up and set off 

about nine there was to be little opportunity to stop until we’d crossed Zaysan on the ferry – the 

one o’clock ferry being the only one before five in the evening! Every twenty miles or so we 

passed through villages most of which had extensive and obvious cemeteries a mile or so outside. 

These were extraordinary to our eyes. Each grave was covered in a metal frame somewhat like a 

small mausoleum and each was topped by a moon and sun. Many were painted bright colours. 

We’d seen similar cemeteries elsewhere but it was clear that in this valley they took the 

remembrance of the dead seriously in this valley. 

On the ferry we watched the Swallows, Tree Sparrows and Masked Wagtails that were all nesting 

on the ferry, the latter was using the car radiator grills to good effect as a productive feeding 

station. On the other side we filed into the little yourta service area and took a rather superb meal 

of pirmeni (a little like ravioli), some very tasty pasties, and lots of tea as it was now very hot. In 

fact we were later to find out that it was 42°C in Ust-Kamenogrosk today. 

Refreshed we climbed back into our vehicles and soon stopped hy some roadside steppe. It was 

very flowery here and the general impression was of high summer which was in some contrast to 

the early spring feel we had experienced upon the high pass above Rakhmanovskie the day 

before. Pink Allium hymenorrhizum was common along with abundant Salvia deserti and the 

white sprays of Gypsophila paniculata. Olga collected a good deal of the latter – it was clearly 

important the shamanistic medicine she practised. Beautiful delphiniums escaped identification. 

We pulled up by a yourta service area for a brief stop. This is a superb spot for butterflies and we 

could have done with much more time here. Still there was time to find two new admiral species 

in the form of Limenitis sydyi and Limenitis helmanni. Hungarian Glider, Holly Blue, Essex 

19

Skipper and a number of plebeius and polyommatus blues were also in evidence. Bunias 

orientalis grew here and a warbler singing in the willows by a stream must surely have been a 

Barred Warbler? We stopped again briefly by the Scots Pine relict forests atop the Kalbinskiy 

Hills. Sadly again it was all to brief though we did have time to see Esper’s Marbled White, 

Eastern Bath White and the diminutive Colias tyche. By the roadside grew a white form of 

Veronica multifida and the pretty white Geranium affine, this species with much larger white 

flowers than Geranium albiflorum. 

Eventually we arrived into Ust-Kamenogorsk. We said goodbye to Sasha and Olga before settling 

into the hotel and later went for a farewell meal at the excellent café – pizzas all round! 

Day 15 June 28 th Almaty 

The next morning we said farewell to Valery and Andrei at the airport as we caught the two hour 

flight to Almaty. The big city came as something of a shock after the past two weeks! After a very 

nice lunch in the hotel café we spent the afternoon relaxing (or packing?) or visiting the beautiful 

wooden cathedral in a nearby park. A huge painting inside the cathedral was of particular interest 

as it depicted not only the local bishop and benefactor but also the last Tsar and Tsarina and all 

their family. 

Some even had time to visit the state museum or to go shopping in the department stores before 

we all met up for a wonderful last evening meal where our local agent Alexander put on a superb 

spread for us. 

Day 16 June 29 th Return to the UK 

I went down to the airport with Vladimir at about midnight to meet our next group who were 

arriving on a holiday to the Tien Shan. They arrived on time so by the time I was dropped off 

again at the Hotel Almaty it was time for all of us to go the airport and say goodbye to 

Kazakhstan for another year. 

20

Systematic List Number 1 Birds 

The taxonomy is largely taken from Professor Edward Gavrilov’s summary of status and 

distribution to be found in the ‘Guide to the Birds of the Kazakhstan Republic’ published in 2000. 

A few common names and subspecies details are taken from MacKinnon and Phillipps’s Birds of 

China also published in 2000. 

To give an idea of frequency of sightings we give a figure at the end of the comments section 

which indicates the number of days out of 14 on which a species was seen – 6/14 means that a 

species was noted on 6 days out of 14. ‘Leader only records’ are indicated by the leaders initials – 

IG = Ian Green, VK = Vladimir Kolbintsev. 

Itinerary in brief – 

June 15 th Daytrip from Almaty to Cim Bulak and the Tyuk-su Gate 

June 16 th Full day journey across the Kalbinskiy Hills and through the Zaysan Desert to camp on 

north shore of Lake Zaysan 

June 17 th Morning at the Kiin Kerish canyon and afternoon at a Spring near there, both in the 

Zaysan Desert 

June 18 th Journey from Zaysan to Markakol. Some time on Zaysan’s shore and at various points en 

route including the Marble Pass near Alexeevka on the Chinese Border 

June 19 th Full day at Markakol – walks from the village 

June 20 th Full day at Markakol – walk to the ‘Cold Pass’ 

June 21 st Full day at Markakol – a little further out from the village 

June 22 nd Full day at Markakol – road towards Burkhat – the Alatay Pass 

June 23 rd Journey north across the south Altai and the Burkhat Pass, descent into the Bukhtarma 

Rift 

Valley and then staying at Kamenka ‘bee farm’ 

June 24 th Full day on and near the Burkhat Pass 

June 25 th Morning journey to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi and afternoon are upper lake and pine 

forests 

June 26 th Early morning pine forests and then up to pass to the north. Afternoon journey back to 

Kamenka 

June 27 th Journey from Kamenka in the Bukhtarma Valley west to Ust-Kamenogorsk 

June 28 th Ust-Kamenogorsk to Almaty. Afternoon free in city 

Black-throated Diver Gavia arctica One of the most surprising finds of the trip 

was an adult in breeding plumage on 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

Great Crested Grebe Podiceps cristatus Only seen around Lake Zaysan where seen 

on 3 days 

Cormorant Phalacrocorax carbo 1 at first Zaysan ferry crossing and 3 at the 

second 

Dalmatian Pelican Pelecanus crispus 1 noted at the first Zaysan ferry crossing and 

then up to a maximum of 8 by the Zaysan 

shore camp. 3/14 

Great White Egret Egretta alba 2 near Zaysan shore camp 

Grey Heron Ardea cinerea 1 at Frankfurt Arport en route! 

Black Stork Ciconia nigra Singles noted daily at Markakol. 5/14 

Ruddy Shelduck Tadorna ferruginea Scattered. 6/14 

Gadwall Anas strepera A few at both Zaysan Lake and at Markakol. 

4/14 

Wigeon Anas penelope A few at both Zaysan Lake and at 

Markakol. Max daily count 6. 5/14 

Mallard Anas platyrhynchos Scarce. 2/14 

21

Pintail Anas acuta A few at Zaysan Lake. Max daily counts 

10+. 4/14 

Garganey Anas querquedula 7 at Lake Zaysan and a male at Markakol. 

2/14 

Shoveler Anas clypeata Quite common at Lake Zaysan. A male at 

Markakol. 4/14 

Red-crested Pochard Netta rufina Max count of 6 at Lake Zaysan. 2/14 

Tufted Duck Aythya fuligula Quite common on Markakol and a few on 

both lakes at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 5/14 

Pochard Aythya ferina 3 at Lake Zaysan and c.12 at Markakol. 2/14 

Goldeneye Clangula bucephala Very common at Markakol where counts of 

500+! Also 2+ at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

4/14 

Velvet Scoter Melanitta deglandi 50+ on the upper lake and 15+ on the lower 

lake at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi constituted 

quite a sizeable breeding colony! 2/14 

Red-breasted Merganser Mergus serrator 7+ females and immatures on Markakol 

Black Kite Milvus migrans Widespread and abundant. 13/14 

Black Vulture Aegypius monachus 1 over the Burkhat Pass. 6 by the dead horse 

on first pass and 4+ on the second! 3/14 

Griffon Vulture Gyps fulvus A rare bird in the Altai. 3 birds by the dead 

horse on the first pass and 1 on the second. 

2/14 

Montagu’s Harrier Circus pygargus Scattered. 5/14 

Hen Harrier Circus cyaneus Noted almost daily in the Markakol, Burkhat 

and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi areas. 7/14 

Goshawk Accipiter gentilis Fabulous views of a female at 


Sparrowhawk Accipiter nisus Scattered singles. 4/14 

Common Buzzard Buteo buteo ‘vulpinus’ race? Noted most days. Max daily 

count 4. 10/14 

Long-legged Buzzard Buteo rufinus A total of 3 in the Zaysan Desert. 2/14 

Upland Buzzard Buteo hemilasius 10+ a day in the Zaysan desert area, mostly 

between the camp site and Kiin Kerish 

Canyon. Also 2 seen from the Burkhat Pass. 

4/14 

Steppe Eagle Aquila nipalensis 2 in the Kalbinskiy Hills, 3+ in the Zaysan 

Desert and 1 over the Burkhat Pass. 3/14 

Imperial Eagle Aquila heliaca 3 in the Kalbinskiy Hills, 2 between the 

Burkhat Pass and Kamenka Bee Farm, 2 en 

route to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi and 2 at the 

dead horse. 4/14 

White-tailed Eagle Haliaeetus albicilla Max daily count along the shore by Zaysan 

Camp was 3! 3/14 

Lesser Kestrel Falco naumanni 4+ on the hill above the spring at Zaysan. 

May have been missed elsewhere 

Common Kestrel Falco tinnunculus Widespread except in Markakol area. 6/14 

Hobby Falco subbuteo Scattered. 6/14 

Saker Falco cherrug 1 in the Zaysan Desert near Kiin Kerish 

Ptarmigan Lagopus mutus 1 seen and plenty of signs noted on the 

Burkhat Pass 

Black Grouse Tetrao tetrix A female seen on the dry hill north of 

Markakol. Feathers and signs noted in variety 

of areas at Markakol. 

Capercaillie Tetrao urogallus A female with several young seen at very 

close range a little south of Markakol 

Hazelhen Tetrastes bonasia 2 on the road down from the Burkhat Pass 

Quail Coturnix coturnix Head pretty much everywhere and seen 

occasionally too. 10/14 

22

Corncrake Crex crex Heard and seen (VK) in Cim Bulak, Almaty. 

Heard in the Kalbinskiy Hills where also seen 

(IG) and also around Markakol. 5/14 

Coot Fulica atra 1 at Zaysan Camp 

Demoiselle Crane Anthropoides virgo Max count of 9 on the shores of Lake Zaysan 

including a foot tall youngster who walked 

off into the desert! Also 2 near Alexeevka 

and 2 en route to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

3/14 

Houbara Bustard Chlamydotis undulata Should probably now be called MacQueen’s 

Bustard. Singles noted twice near the Zaysan 

camp – one by Yuri, then a male by several 

of us 

Oystercatcher Haematopus ostralegus Max of 2 along shores of Lake Zaysan. 2/14 

Black-winged Stilt Himantopus himantopus Scattered along shores of Lake Zaysan. 3/14 

Little Ringed Plover Charadrius dubius Common around Zaysan and 1 in the 

Bukhtarma Valley. 4/14 

Kentish Plover Charadrius alexandrinus A few by Zaysan Camp. 2/14 

Lapwing Vanellus vanellus Scattered along Zaysan’s shore. 3/14 

Common Snipe Gallinago gallinago 1 in the Kalbinskiy Hills 

Whimbrel Numenius phaeopus 5+ on Zaysan’s shore 

Curlew Numenius arquata 1 on Zaysan’s shore 

Common Redshank Tringa totanus Common along Zaysan’s shore. 3/14 

Green Sandpiper Tringa ochropus 1 at Markakol (OM) 

Common Sandpiper Actitis hypoleucos Markakol, Bukhtarma River and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. Nest with 4 eggs 

found. 5/14 

Great Black-headed Gull Larus ichthyaetus Count of 56+ birds by the camp was the most 

at Lake Zaysan. Only 1 on Markakol. 3/14 

Black-headed Gull Larus ridibundus Scattered around Zaysan. 4/14 

‘Herring’ Gull Larus ‘argentatus’ Scattered around Zaysan. 4/14 – most 

seemed to be of the ‘barabensis’ race? 

Gull-billed Tern Gelochelidon nilotica Noted at Lake Zaysan. 2/14 

Caspian Tern Sterna caspia 28 by the Zaysan Camp 

Common Tern Sterna hirundo Noted near most areas of water. 5/14 

Little Tern Sterna albifrons Quite common along Zaysan’s shores. 3./14 

White-winged Black Tern Chlidonias leucopterus Very common by the Zaysan Camp. 3/14 

Pallas’s Sandgrouse Syrrhaptes paradoxus Max daily count of about 30 in the Zaysan 

Desert – commonest on gravel plains near the 

spring. Nest found with eggs at Kiin Kerish. 

3/14 

Rock Dove Columba livia Widespread. 7/14 

Rufous Turtle Dove Streptopelia orientalis Widespread. 11/14 

Oriental Cuckoo Cuculus saturatus Heard daily at Markakol and on the north- 

facing slopes below the Burkhat Pass. Seen 

only once at the first bridge across the Kara 

Kaba River at the foot of the ‘Austrian 

Road’. 6/14 

Cuckoo Cuculus canorus Widespread and sometimes very common. 

Common in same areas as above species too. 

12/14 

Eagle Owl Bubo bubo Pellets found in the Kiin Kerish Canyon, 

Zaysan Desert 

Nightjar Caprimulgus europaeus 1 at the camp by the shore of Lake Zaysan 

Common Swift Apus apus Noted in Cim Bulak, Almaty and common at 

the Kiin Kerish canyon, Zaysan Desert. 2/14 

Pacific Swift Apus pacificus Quite common at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

2/14 

23

European Bee-eater Merops apiaster 3+ noted near Alexeevka and 7+ in the 


Roller Coracias garrulus 2 near Alexeevka 

Hoopoe Upupa epops Scattered. 6/14 

Wryneck Jynx torquilla 3 on fenceposts near the dead horse en route 

from Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

Grey-headed Woodpecker Picus canus 2 seen very well on way up to pass on north 

side of Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

Black Woodpecker Dryocopus martius 1 seen on the way up to the Cold Pass at 

Markakol and 1 on route down from the 

Burkhat Pass. 2/14 

Northern Three-toed Woodpecker Picoides tridactylus A female seen well on the Cold Pass above 

Markakol and almost certainly another seen 

in pines across the lake at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. 

White-backed Woodpecker Dendrocopus leucotus 1 seen in pines across the lake at 


Calandra Lark Melanocorypha calandra 1 seen near Zaysan Camp – probably passed 

a good number more 

Black Lark Melanocorypha yeltoniensis One of the commonest birds in the Zaysan 

Desert with daily counts of 50+. Especially 

common just away from Zaysan’s shore and 

even seen displaying above the wetland 

around Zaysan Camp! 3/14 

White-winged Lark Melanocorypha leucoptera 3+ (probably 4 birds) seen 200m from 

Zaysan’s shore about 3km from our camp. 

According to Yuri there are only two 

previous records from the area. These birds 

appeared to represent two pairs probably on 

territory 

Short-toed Lark Calandrella brachydactyla 1+ in the Zaysan Desert 

Asian Short-toed Lark Calandrella cheelensis Scattered in the drier gravelly parts of 

Zaysan. Drives through the desert put up 

hundreds of small larks that were not 

identified specifically. 3/14 

Oriental Skylark Alauda gulgula Surprisingly seemed to one of the most 

abundant larks in the Zaysan Desert! 2/14 

Skylark Alauda arvensis Widespread (including Zaysan). 8/14 

Shorelark Eremophila alpestris Scattered in the Zaysan Desert! 2/14 

Sand Martin Riparia riparia Common around Lake Zaysan. 5/14 

Swallow Hirundo rustica Widespread. 14/14 

House Martin Delichon urbica Only seen on one day above Markakol 

Tawny Pipit Anthus campestris Scattered in drier habitats. 6/14 

Tree Pipit Anthus trivialis Common around Markakol, Burkhat Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. Nest with eggs 

found. 8/14 

Water Pipit Anthus spinoletta Common on the Burkhat Pass and above 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. Nest with eggs 

found. 3/14 

Yellow Wagtail Motacilla flava Several of the ‘beema’ race noted at Zaysan 

along with a few ‘feldegg’ but most in this 

area seemed to be the race ‘melanogrisea’. 

5/14 

Grey Wagtail Motacilla cinerea Common in the hills. 11/14 

Masked Wagtail Motacilla personata Widespread. 12/14 

Himalayan (Altai) Accentor Prunella himalayana 2 on boulder screes above the pass north of 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (IG) 

24

Black-throated Accentor Prunella atrogularis 1 at Tyuk-su, Cim Bulak, Almaty. 1 near 

upper limit of Siberian Pine forest on north 

side of the Burhkat Pass and 1 on way up 

pass on the north side of Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi (IG). 3/14 

Nightingale Luscinia megarhynchos Heard in a few localities. 3/14 

Bluethroat Luscinia svecica Common on the Burkhat Pass and a few at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 4/14 

Siberian Rubythroat Luscinia calliope Max of 2 seen on each visit to the Burkhat 

Pass including a couple of fine males. Also 

noted on both days at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. 4/14 

Common Redstart Phoenicurus phoenicurus Widespread and common in wooded areas of 

the hills. 6/14 

Eversmann’s Redstart Phoenicurus erythronotus Males seen on the Burkhat Pass (IG) and in 

boulder scree amid Siberian Pines across the 

lake at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (IG). 2/14 

Stonechat Saxicola torquata Widespread and locally abundant. 11/14 

Isabelline Wheatear Oenanthe isabellina Common in the Zaysan Desert and in the 


Northern Wheatear Oenanthe oenanthe Widespread. 7/14 

Pied Wheatear Oenanthe pleschanka Widespread. 6/14 

Desert Wheatear Oenanthe deserti Only noted at Kiin Kerish in the Zaysan 

Desert 

Blackbird Turdus merula Only seen in Almaty 

Fieldfare Turdus pilaris A few at Markakol and on the Burkhat Pass. 

3/14 

Mistle Thrush Turdus viscivorus Common in the hills. 8/14 

Black-throated Thrush Turdus atrogularis Quite common in the hills. Max daily count 

about 6. 6/14 

Blue Whistling Thrush Myophonus caeruleus Heard at Tyuk-su Gate, Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Grasshopper Warbler Locustella naevia Heard at Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Pallas’s Grasshopper Warbler Locustella certhiola One seen well above Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi – also singing (IG) 

Blyth’s Reed Warbler Acrocephalus dumetorum Common in meadow herbage and forest 

understory around Markakol – also scattered 

elsewhere – common in song at night. 4/14 

Altai Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia curruca altai Common in the hills. 5/14 

Desert Lesser Whitethroat Sylvia minutula Several seen at Kiin Kerish, Zaysan Desert 

Common Whitethroat Sylvia communis Scattered. 3/14 

Greenish Warbler Phylloscopus trochiloides Quite common in woodlands and forests. 

4/14 

Hume’s Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus humei A few above Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Yellow-browed Warbler Phylloscopus inornatus Common in forest around Markakol, Burkhat 

Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi, 6/14 

Dusky Warbler Phylloscopus fuscatus 4+ seen in tundra with a few small trees on 

the Burkhat Pass 

Chiffchaff Phylloscopus collybita Quite widespread - interesting song! 7/14 

Goldcrest Regulus regulus Heard at Markakol and on the Burkhat Pass 

Spotted Flycatcher Muscicapa striata 1 below the Burkhat Pass and 2 at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 2/14 

Long-tailed Tit Aegithalos caudatus 1 below the Cold Pass, Markakol (VK) 

Great Tit Parus major Widespread. 7/14 

Siberian Tit Parus cinctus 1 seen in Siberian Pines across the lake at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (IG) 

Coal Tit Parus ater Singles at Markakol and Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. 2/14 

Willow Tit Parus montanus Common in all wooded areas in the Altai. 

6/14 

25

Nuthatch Sitta europaea Scattered in wooded areas. 4/14 

Golden Oriole Oriolus oriolus Noted by the hotel in Ust-Kamenogorsk, a 

male seen en route between Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi and Kamenka and heard in the 


Red-backed Shrike Lanius collurio Common. 7/14 

Lesser Grey Shrike Lanius minor Singles seen near Alexeevka and en route to 

Ust-Kamenogorsk. A ‘grey shrike’ perching 

on saxaul in the desert at Zaysan was almost 

certainly a ‘funereus’ race Great Grey Shrike, 

but we didn’t see it well enough to be sure 

Magpie Pica pica Widespread. 13/14 

Nutcracker Nucifraga caryocatactes Not uncommon on the Burkhat Pass and also 

at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. Max daily count 

5. 4/14 

Chough Pyrrhocorax pyrrhocorax 3 above Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Jackdaw Corvus monedula Quite common away from forests. 7/14 

Rook Corvus frugilegus Quite common away from forests. 6/14 

Carrion Crow Corvus corone Subspecies ‘orientalis’. Widespread. 13/14 

Hooded Crow Corvus corone Subspecies ‘cornix’. Noted at Ust- 

Kemenogorsk and 1 at Kamenka. Hybrids 

between this subspecies and above seen at 

Ust-Kamenogorsk 

Raven Corvus corax Widespread in low numbers. 7/14 

Starling Sturnus vulgaris Widespread. 13/14 

Rose-coloured Starling Sturnus roseus Locally abundant but absent from most areas 

we visited. Many hundreds along the main 

road on the way into the desert and at the 

spring in Zaysan but thereafter only 2 seen! 

5/14 

House Sparrow Passer indicus Noted in villages etc. 8/14 

Tree Sparrow Passer montanus Locally quite common. 7/14 

Grey-headed Goldfinch Carduelis carduelis caniceps Widespread. 9/14 

Linnet Carduelis cannabina Widespread. 7/14 

Twite Carduelis flavirostris Max of 3 on each visit to the Burkhat Pass. 

2/14 

Chaffinch Fringilla coelebs 1 at Markakol and 1 at the bee farm 

Kamenka. 2/14 

Hodgson’s Rosy Finch Leucosticte arctoa 2 on the first visit to the Burkhat Pass and 4 

there on the 2 nd visit. 2/14 

Mongolian Trumpeter Finch Rhodopechys mongolicus 20+ around the Kiin Kerish Canyon and at 

least 1 at the spring later the same day 

Common Rosefinch Carpodacus erythrinus Widespread. 10/14 

Great Rosefinch Carpodacus roseus ?A single female on the boulder screes above 

the pass north of Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

must surely have been this species but only 

seen from a distance (IG & VK) 

Pine Grosbeak Pinicola enucleator Male seen and several heard on the first visit 

to the pines across the lake at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi and male and 

female seen the next morning and another 

pair heard. 2/14 

Crossbill Loxia curvirostra Up to 6 seen on each visit to the 

pines across 

the lake at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 2/14 

Pine Bunting Emberiza leucocephalos Two males at Markakol and several seen at 

and around the bee farm at Kamenka. 4/14 

Yellowhammer Emberiza citrinella Males seen twice in the Markakol area. 2/14 

Rock Bunting Emberiza cia A male seen on the Marble Pass (IG) 

26

Meadow Bunting Emberiza cioides A male seen well near the bee farm, 

Kamenka and several other birds seen as we 

drove around this area were surely this 

species 

Ortolan Bunting Emberiza hortulana Common in the hills. 7/14 

Yellow-breasted Bunting Emberiza aureola Males noted along the roads in the Buktarma 

Valley. 2/14 

Red-headed Bunting Emberiza bruniceps Scattered. 6/14 

27

Systematic List Number 2 Mammals 

Northern Serotine Bat Eptesicus nilssoni 1 watched flying around at Midday and then 

feeding amongst birch leaves 

Red-cheeked Suslik Spermophilus erythrogenus Not uncommon in the Zaysan Desert. 3/14 

Long-tailed Suslik Spermophilus undulatus Locally common, particularly near the bee 

farm at Kamenka. Max daily count of 17. 

6/14 

Siberian Chipmunk Eutamius sibiricus Quite frequent in wooded areas of the Altai. 

Max daily count 6. 6/14 

Red Squirrel Sciurus vulgaris Singles on the Cold Pass, Markakol and at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. The local race is 

almost black all over except for a striking 

creamy-white underside. 2/14 

Lagurus luteus This strange bundle of grey fur is a tertiary 

relict species and has few modern-day 

relatives. Quite common in the Zaysan 

Desert! 2/14 

Gregory’s Vole Microtus gregoricus Several seen amid the tundra on the Burkhat 

Pass 

Greater Jerboa Allactaga major 50+ seen on night walk in Zaysan (IG) 

Lesser Jerboa Allactaga elaphus At least 1 seen on night walk in Zaysan (IG) 

Stelodipus telum (a small eared jerboa). 2 on night walk in 

Zaysan (IG) 

Grey Marmot Marmota bibacinia Heard above Cim Bulak, Almaty. Several 

seen on the pass above Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi and signs noted elsewhere 

Altai Pika ?????? Singles seen in large boulder scree on the 

Cold Pass and on the Burkhat Pass and heard 

on several occasions. 4/14 

Mountain Hare Lepus timidus 3 seen on night walk at Markakol (IG) and 2 

on night walk at bee farm, Kamenka (IG). 

2/14 

Wolverine Gulo gulo A dead animal found below the Alatay Pass 

north of Markakol - this had been poached as 

the skin had been removed 

Badger Meles meles Tracks seen around the Zaysan Camp 

Wolf Lupus lupus None seen but tracks seen at Zaysan camp 

and dung seen elsewhere 

Fox Vulpes vulpes 1 superb looking animal seen on the Burkhat 

Pass - a mixture of reds and greys! 

Brown Bear Ursos arctos Tracks from two bears seen 1 km from the 

village at Markakol 

28

Systematic List Number 3 Butterflies 

The taxonomy and nomenclature for the following list has been taken from ‘Die Tagfalter 

Nordwestasiens’ by Lukhtanov and Lukhtanov (1994) 

Papilionidae 

Papilio machaon Swallowtail Rather scarce – seen mostly on high passes. 

4/14 

Iphiclides podalirius Scarce Swallowtail 1 between Ust-Kamenogorsk and Zaysan 

Parnassius ariadne 1 seen well and photographed on route up the 

Cold Pass at Markakol 

Parnassius phoebus Small Apollo 2 probably this species photographed on the 

dry hill north of Markakol and 4+ almost 

certainly this species on the way up the 

Alatay Pass. 2/14 

Parnassius apollo Apollo Subspecies ‘alpherakyi’. Seen above Cim 

Bulak, Almaty and 2+ between Kamenka and 

Ust-Kamenogorsk. 2/14 

Pieridae 

Anthocharis cardamines Orange-Tip Widespread in low numbers. 7/14 

Aporia crataegi Black-veined White Widespread. 9/14 

Colias erate Eastern Pale Clouded Yellow Probably widespread but only identified with 

certainty on 4 days. Certainly there were 

other Colias species present that went 

unidentified 

Colias tyche 1 seen on the ‘Scots Pine’ Pass in the 

Kalbinskiy Hills 

Gonepteryx rhami Brimstone Noted in the Kalbinskiy Hills and 1 on the 


Leptidea morsei At times the commonest of the wood whites 

at Markakol. Distinctive with pronounced 

‘cross-bars’ on the hindwings and slightly 

more attentuated forewings. 3/14 

Leptidea sinapis Wood White Markakol. 3/14 

Pieris brassicae Large White Scattered. 6/14 

Pieris napi muechi Green-veined White Widespread. 8/14 

Pieris rapae Small White Only seen in Almaty at the Cathedral! 

Euchloe ausonia pulverata Eastern Dappled White ?Probably this species above Cim Bulak, 

Almaty 

Pontia edusa Eastern Bath White Widespread and common 

Metaporia leucodice Noted at Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Lycaenidae 

Celastrina argiolus Holly Blue Only noted at the yourta service area in the 


Cupido osiris Osiris Blue The commonest blue in the Markakol area. 

3/14 

Cupido minimus Small Blue Also very common at Markakol. 2/14 

Cupido buddhista Noted at Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Scolitantides orion Chequered Blue 1 on the Marble Pass and 3+ on the dry hill 

north of Markakol. 2/14 

Maculinea sp Large Blue sp 1 seen on the Alatay Pass 

Plebeius idas Idas Blue In the hotel garden at Ust-Kamenogorsk 

Plebeius argus Silver-studded Blue A colony of hundreds at the ‘orchid’ marsh in 

the Bukhtarma Valley 

29

Plebeius pylaon Zephyr Blue Noted between Ust-Kamenogorsk and 

Zaysan and several at the yourta service area 

there on the way back. 2/14 

Aricia artaxerxes Mountain Argus Subspecies ‘strandi’. Seen on the Alatay and 

Bukhtarma Passes. 2/14 

Eumedonia eumedon Geranium Argus The commonest blue in meadows between 

Markakol and the Burkhat pass. 2/14 

Cyaniris semiargus Mazarine Blue Scattered. 5/14 

Agrodiaetus amandus Amanda’s Blue 1 on the Alatay Pass 

Polyommatus icarus Common Blue Only noted on the Alatay Pass 

Nymphalidae 

Argynnis aglaja Dark Green Fritillary Only seen at the ‘orchid marsh’ in the 

Bukhtarma Valley 

Argynnis pandora Cardinal Singles in the Kalbinskiy Hills and Marble 

Pass. 2/14 

Clossiana euphrosyne Pearl-bordered Fritillary A few in the Markakol area. 2/14 

Issoria lathonia Queen of Spain Fritillary Scattered. 5/14 

Brenthis ino Lesser Marbled Fritillary 1 at the ‘orchid marsh’ in the Bukhtarma 

Valley 

Melitaea cinxia Glanville Fritillary Noted in the Kalbinskiy Hills and on the 

Altay Pass 

Melitaea latonigena Common on the dry hill north of Markakol 

and on the Alatay Pass. 2/14 

Melitaea arduninna Freyer’s Fritillary Noted in the Kalbinskiy Hills 

Melitaea arcesia 2 on the Alatay Pass – looks superficially like 

a small Euphydryas species! 

Mellicta britomartis Assmann’s Fritillary A few seen around Markakol, Alatay and 

Burkhat Passes. 3/14 

Euphydryas iduna Lapland Fritillary 2 just outside the village at Markakol 

Euphydryas intermedia Asian Fritillary Seen on the Alatay Pass and below the 

Burkhat Pass. 2/14 

Euphydryas aurinia Marsh Fritillary 1 near Markakol 

Neptis rivularis Hungarian Glider Widespread. 8/14 

Limenitis populi Poplar Admiral Around a dozen seen on each journey along 

the Bukhtarma’s main northward tributary 

below the climb to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

Limenitis sydyi 1 dead one found at the yourta service area in 

the Kalbinskiy Hills 

Limenitis helmanni Abundant at the yourta service area in the 


Nymphalis antiopa Camberwell Beauty Singles twice at Markakol – overwinterers as 

they were in bad condition! 

Nymphalis xanthomelas Yellow-legged Tortoiseshell Widespread and common. 11/14 

Aglais urticae Small Tortoiseshell Widespread and common – except Zaysan. 

10/14 

Araschnia levana Map Butterfly Not uncommon around Markakol and the 


Inachis io Peacock Only seen once at Markakol 

Polygonum c-album Comma Singles on the Alatay Pass and on the 

northward tributary of the Buktarma below 

the climb to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 2/14 

Cynthia cardui Painted Lady Scattered. 4/14 

30

Satyridae 

Chazara briseus magna Hermit Only seen in the Bukhtarma Valley 

Satyrus ferula Great Sooty Satyr 1 at the Spring in Zaysan 

Coenonympha oedippus False Ringlet Quite common around the bee farm at 

Kamenka. 3/14 

Coenonympha glycerion Chestnut Heath 1 in the Kalbinskiy Hills and also noted at the 

bee farm near Kamenka. 2/14 

Coenonympha sunbecca Quite a few seen above Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Proterebia afra Dalmatian Ringlet A single in the Kalbinskiy Hills 

Erebia ligea Arran Brown The common ringlet at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. 2/14 

Erebia jeniseiensis Common on the Burkhat Pass 

Erebia kindermanni Seen on the Alatay Pass. Like the next 

species but with no orange areas on the inner 

part of wing 

Erebia theano Widespread and quite common in meadows 

above about 1100m. 4/14 

Erebia cyclopius Singles at Markakol and by the north 

tributary of the Bukhtarma River below the 

rise to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 2/14. A very 

distinctive ringlet 

Erebia aethiops Scotch Argus Above Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Erebia turanica Above Cim Bulak, Almaty 

Aphantopus hyperantus 1 by the north tributary of the Bukhtarma 

River below the rise to Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi 

Hyponephele naricina ?The small ‘browns’ in the Kiin Kerish 

Canyon and other parts of Zaysan were 

probably this species? 

Hyponephele lupina Oriental Meadow Brown ?Large ‘meadow brown’ types seen in 

various areas must surely have been this 

species? 

Oeneis nanna 2 amid dry tundra on the Burkhat Pass 

Lasiommata maera Large Wall Brown Quite common at Markakol and on the 


Lasiommata petropolitana Northern Wall Brown Seen on the Alatay Pass 

Lopinga achine 1 going to roost on the side of the ‘mess hut’ 

at the bee farm, Kamenka 

Melanargia russiae Esper’s Marbled White Scattered. 3/14 

Hesperiidae 

Carterocephalus palaemon Chequered Skipper Singles on the Alatay Pass and in a bog by 

the lake at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 2/14 

Spialia orbifer Orbed Red-underwing Skipper A single at Markakol 

Ochlodes venetus Large Skipper Scattered. 3/14 

Pyrgus serratulae Olive Skipper 1 on the Burkhat Pass 

Pyrgus alveus Large Grizzled Skipper Common on the Alatay Pass 

Thymelicus lineola Essex Skipper Common at the ‘yourta service area’ in the 


Thymelicus sylvestris Small Skipper 1 on the Alatay Pass 

31

Systematic List Number 4 Amphibians and Reptiles 

Moor Frog Rana arvalis Noted at Markakol and on the Burkhat Pass 

Green Toad Bufo viridis 2 in pines across the lake at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi 

Sand Lizard Lacerta agilis Widespread - particularly common by the 

Zaysan Camp. Some very large bright green 

males seen. 5/14 

Common Lizard Lacerta vivipara 1 at Markakol and 3 in pine forest across the 

lake at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi 

Steppe Runner Eremurus arguta Very common in the Zaysan Desert. 3/14 

Sun-watcher Phrynocephalus helioscopa 2 seen by the Kiin Kerish Canyon, Zaysan 

Zaysan Toad-headed Agama Phrynocephalus melanurus Common in sandy desert near the first ferry 

crossing at Lake Zaysan 

Adder Vipera berus A total of 10 seen at various localities. Most 

were very small! One had just been caught by 

a Red-backed Shrike. Quite a variety of 

colour forms including several almost black 

ones. 4/14 

Haly's Pit Viper Agkistrodon halys 1 seen on the road between Ust- 

Kemenogorsk and Zaysan 

Dione Snake Elaphus dione 1 seen on road between Ust-Kamenogorsk 

and Zaysan and another between Burkhat and 

the bee farm at Kamenka. 2/14 

32

Systematic List Number 5 Vascular Plants 

The present list is highly provisional, and the plants included are categorised on the basis of the 

confidence with which they have been identified: 

[Species in square brackets have been distinguished, but were not identified with any certainty. In some cases 

the number of options may be limited, and these may be listed. Some notes are usually given to indicate the 

salient characteristics]. 

? For those species marked with a question mark, there is greater confidence and a provisional identification is 

given, though this awaits confirmation. 

Species with no annotation are certain (or highly likely) identifications. 

Vernacular names are included in curly brackets i.e. { }. Families are arranged in a conventional taxonomic order, 

with species ordered alphabetically within the families. 

A. PTERIDOPHYTA Ferns and their allies 

Lycopodiaceae 

Diphasiastrum complanatum Spruce forest at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a clubmoss}. 

Huperzia selago Drier spruce forest: Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Fir Clubmoss}. 

Lycopodium annotinum Frequent in spruce forest at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Interrupted 

Clubmoss}. 

Lycopodium clavatum Rare in spruce forest at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Stag’s-horn 

Clubmoss}. 

Equisetaceae 

Equisetum arvense Flushes and all kinds of mossy wet sites at a full range of altitudes: Cim 

Bulak, south of Markakol and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi spruce forest. 

{Common Horsetail}. 

Equisetum fluviatile Marshy woodland, wet depressions and pools: Markakol and north to 

Austrian Road, Bukhtarma valley. {Water Horsetail} 

Equisetum hyemale Riverside willow-scrub by access track to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{Rough Horsetail} 

Equisetum palustre Damp depressions by road south from Markakol. {Marsh Horsetail} 

Equisetum pratense Damp woodland margins at low-mid levels: Markakol and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Shady Horsetail} 

Equisetum ramosissimum Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley {Branched Horsetail} 

Equisetum sylvaticum Wooded banks of Bukhtarma river near Berel. {Wood Horsetail} 

Aspleniaceae 

Asplenium trichomanes-ramosum Rock crevices at high levels in Cim Bulak. {Green Spleenwort}. 

Athyriaceae 

Cystopteris fragilis Sheltered rocks at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, Cold Pass and north part 

of Austrian Road. {Brittle Bladder-fern – other bladder-ferns may be 

present}. 

Gymnocarpium dryopteris Shaded rocks, spruce forest and scrub at low-mid levels: Kalbinksiy 

Hills, southern Austrian Road and by access track to Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Oak Fern}. 

Matteucia struthiopteris Woodland by Bukhtarma River, near Berel. {Ostrich Fern} 

33

[Woodsia #1 Rock crevices high on Burkhat Pass. {W. acuminata, W. calcarea or W. 

ilvensis}] 

Aspidiaceae 

Dryopteris dilatata Woodland by Bukhtarma River. {Broad Buckler-fern} 

Dryopteris filix-mas Woodland by Bukhtarma River. {Male Fern} 

Polypodiaceae 

Polypodium vulgare s.l. Rocks in pine woods in Kalbinskiy Hills. {Polypody}. 

Ophioglossaceae 

Botrychium lunaria. Turf at higher levels in Cim Bulak. {Moonwort}. 

B. CONIFEROPSIDA Conifer trees and their allies 

Pinaceae 

Larix sibirica Mountain forests up to the tree line: Cim Bulak, around and above 

Markakol, and near Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Siberian Larch}. 

Picea obovata Forests my lakes and in the mountain forests nearly to tree-line: around 

and above Markakol, thence north along the Austrian Road, and near 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Siberian Spruce} 

Picea tianshanica Mountain forests up to the tree line: Cim Bulak. {Tien Shan Spruce} 

Pinus sibirica Often dominant in higher-level forest from the Burkhat Pass (where it 

also occurs as odd trees on the pass proper) north and around 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Siberian Pine} 

Pinus sylvestris Locally dominant in central Kalbinskiy Hills. {Scots Pine}. 

Cupressaceae 

Juniperus pseudosabina Drier slopes at all levels: Cold Pass, 10km north of Markakol, Burkhat 

Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi forest. {a juniper} 

Juniperus sabina Rocky slopes at mid-high levels: Marble Pass, north of Markakol to 

Southern Austrian Road, campsite near Kamenka and at 2200m above 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a juniper}. 

Juniperus sibirica? Rocky slopes at Cim Bulak {a juniper} 

Ephedraceae 

[Ephedra sp. Arid slopes: Kiin Kerish and Marble Pass. {low greyish bushy jointpine, 

probably either E. dahurica or E. equisetina}] 

34

C. MONOCOTYLEDONES “Monocot” flowering plants 

Typhaceae 

Typha laxmannii Wet depressions: Kuchun. {a reedmace}. 

Potamogetonaceae 

Potamogeton alpinus? Runnels in marsh at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Red Pondweed – plant 

had the jizz of Bog Pondweed, but appears to be a dwarfed form of this 

plant – or possibly P. macrocarpus or P. pamiriae?} 

Juncaginaceae 

Triglochin maritimum Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan depression. {Sea Arrowgrass}. 

Triglochin palustre Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley, and marsh at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Marsh Arrowgrass}. 

Lemnaceae 

Lemna minor Shallow water in mossy flushes at Markakol. {Common Duckweed} 

Poaceae 

Agrostis stolonifera Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {Creeping Bent} 

Alopecurus arundinaceus Damp grassland at lower levels: Markakol. {a foxtail} 

Alopecurus pratensis Coarser grassland at low-mid levels: Markakol. {Meadow Foxtail} 

Anisantha tectorum Disturbed sand by the Zaysan campsite. {Drooping Brome}. 

Anthoxanthum odoratum Moister grasslands at all levels: around and above Markakol. {Sweet 

Vernal-grass} 

Arrhenatherum elatius Roadsides and meadows up to mid-levels: above Almaty. {False Oatgrass}. 

Bromopsis inermis Roadsides and disturbed steppe: Ust-Kamenogorsk, Bukhtarma valley 

and west of Zaysan north ferry. {Hungarian Brome}. 

Bromus japonicus? Roadsides in Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Thunberg’s Brome}. 

Calamagrostis arundinacea Moist shores and streamsides: Zaysan campsite and north of Markakol. 

{a small-reed}. 

Dactylis glomerata Roadsides, meadows and disturbed steppe above Almaty and Ust- 

Kamenogorsk. {Cock’s-foot}. 

Deschampsia cespitosa Mossy flushes: southern Austrian Road. {Tufted Hair-grass} 

Eremopyron triticeum? Arid slopes at Kiin Kerish and by spring-fed saltmarsh. {short annual 

like a two-ranked barley} 

Festuca kryloviana Steppe grassland, light shade and drier sites generally: Kalbinskiy Hills 

and Cold Pass. {a “sheep’s-fescue” – other species probably present e.g. 

F. sulcata}. 

Helictotrichon schellianum? Grassland at mid-high levels: near Cold and Burkhat Passes. {a meadowoat} 

Hierochloë odorata Mire and marshy lake-shore: Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Holy Grass} 

Hierochloë sibirica? Damp margins of track on Burkhat Pass. {a holy-grass} 

Leymus angustus? Scattered in sandy semi-desert in Zaysan depression, including campsite. 

{Very robust “lyme-grass” with spikes some 20cm long and >3cm thick}. 

Milium effusum Shaded grounds of Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Wood Millet} 

Phleum alpinum Grassland and flushes at mid-higher levels: Cold Pass, southern Austrian 

Road and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. (Alpine Cat’s-tail} 

Phleum phleoides Steppe west from Zaysan north ferry – probably overlooked elsewhere. 

{Purple-stemmed Cat’s-tail} 

Phragmites australis Narrow beds around shore of Zaysan lake and in spring-fed saltmarsh. 

35

{Reed}. 

Poa annua Nutrient-rich turf near houses: Markakol. {Annual Meadow-grass} 

Poa trivialis Wayside grassland in villages: Urunkhayka. {Rough Meadow-grass} 

Puccinellia sp. Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {Saltmarsh-grass} 

[Stipa spp. Prominent and often co-dominant in steppe grassland, occurring in the 

montane zone especially on south-facing slopes: Kalbinskiy Hills, 

Marble Pass, north of Markakol and west from Zaysan north ferry. 

{Steppe-grasses, no attempt made to distinguish species, though S. 

pennata probably the main species in the southern Altai}]. 

Cyperaceae 

Blysmus rufus Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {Saltmarsh Flat-sedge} 

Bolboschoenus maritimus Wet depressions by road in Zaysan semi-desert. {Sea Club-rush}. 

Carex acuta? Dominant in ground layer of swamp birch woodland at Markakol. {More 

resembles C. elata, which apparently is not a Kazak species} 

[Carex bigelowii? Margins of Austrian road on Burkhat pass. {laxer than this species} 

Carex canescens? Marsh at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a grey sedge} 

Carex diandra Swamp woodland at Markakol. {Lesser Tussock-sedge} 

Carex disticha Mossy flushes and seasonally wet grassland: southern Austrian Road and 

Bukhtarma valley. {Brown Sedge} 

Carex divisa Moist saline sites by Zaysan lake, and spring-fed marsh. {Divided 

Sedge}. 

[Carex “filiformis” Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {Resembles both the 

European sedges C. filiformis and C. flacca}]. 

Carex flava s.l. Flushes at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {Yellow Sedge}. 

Carex melanantha Flushes and streamsides at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak and Cold Pass. 

{Resembles an erect Jet Sedge, C. atrata or C. aterrima}. 

Carex norvegica? Damp rocks on Burkhat Pass. {Close-headed Alpine-sedge} 

Carex pallescens Wet grassland, marshes and flushes at all levels: Cim Bulak, above 

Markakol and to north, Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Pale Sedge}. 

[Carex “panicea” Flushes at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {Closely resembles the European 

Carnation Sedge}]. 

Carex rostrata Lakeshore below Burkhat Pass and mire pools near Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Bottle Sedge} 

[Carex “spicata” Flushes and moist grassland at mid-level: Cim Bulak and southern 

Austrian road. {Closely resembles west European Spiked Sedge}]. 

Carex sylvatica Pine forest north from Burkhat Pass. {Wood Sedge} 

Carex vesicaria Marshes and wet depressions, often in shade: around and above 

Markakol, also on southern Austrian Road. {Bladder Sedge} 

Eleocharis palustris Wet grassland and flushes, mainly at lower altitudes: Markakol and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. . {Common Spike-rush} 

Eleocharis uniglumis Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert and seasonally-wet grassland 

in Bukhtarma valley. {Slender Spike-rush} 

Eriophorum polystachyum? Mossy marshes and flushes at mid-levels: above Markakol, and near 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a cotton-grass like E. latifolium} 

Eriophorum russeolum Boggy flats on Burkhat Pass. {a creeping cottongrass – 1-spiked} 

[Isolepis/Scirpus #1 Seasonally-wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {Like I. setacea but taller 

and even more slender}] 

[Schoenoplectus #1 Pool margins by seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {a 

clubrush resembling dwarf S. tabernaemontani – is it S. hippolyti?}] 

Scirpus sylvaticus Wet depressions along southern Austrian Road and in Bukhtarma valley. 

{Wood Club-rush} 

36

Juncaceae 

Juncus articulatus Marshy lakeshore at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Jointed Rush} 

Juncus filiformis Mossy flushes by southern Austrian Road. {Thread Rush} 

Juncus gerardii Seasonally damp or spring-fed saline sites in semi-desert: Zaysan 

depression, including spring-fed saltmarsh and Bukhtarma valley. 

{Saltmarsh Rush}. 

Luzula multiflora Drier grassland at all levels: Cold Pass. {Heath Woodrush} 

Luzula pallidula Damp-wet ground, often in shade and mossy: Markakol, and north to 

southern Austrian Road. {Pale Woodrush} 

Luzula parviflora? Conifer forest at mid-levels: Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {woodrush with small pendulous flowers} 

Liliaceae 

Asparagus neglectus? Lush vegetation above spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {soft 

pale-berried asparagus}. 

Eremurus altaicus Dry grassland and steppe in south Altai: Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass 

and west from Zaysan north ferry. {a foxtail-lily}. 

Eremurus fuscus Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a foxtail-lily}. 

Erythronium sibiricum Grassland and forest at mid-high levels, flowering by snow-patches: 

around and above Markakol (including Cold Pass), along Austrian Road 

(common on Burkhat pass) and above Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a 

dog’s-tooth-violet} 

[Gagea #1 Irrigated fine scree in upper parts of Cim Bulak. {Low Gagea with 

several flowers in a sub-umbellate cluster – a similar species seen at 

Markakol}]. 

[Gagea #2 Woodland margins and moist ground at mid-high levels: at and around 

Markakol, and on Burkhat Pass. {Large-flowered Gagea with fistulose 

leaves}] 

Lilium martagon Low scrub, woodland margins and lusher grassland: Kalbinskiy Hills, 

Marble Pass, around and above Markakol, by Austrian Road in 

Bukhtarma valley, and by Bukhtarma River. {Turk’s-cap Lily}. 

Lloydia serotina Rocks and damp fine scree, mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, by Austrian 

Road in Bukhtarma valley and on Burkhat Pass. {Snowdon Lily} 

Tulipa altaica? Semi-desert and steppe: Zaysan depression, including Kiin Kerish and by 

spring-fed saltmarsh; probably also near Markakol. {tall tulip – identity 

to be confirmed, T. kolpakowskiana suggested}. 

Tulipa biflora? Arid slopes at Kiin Kerish and adjacent to spring-fed saltmarsh; probably 

also near Markakol. {a short tulip}. 

Tulipa dasystemon Recent snowmelt at high levels in Cim Bulak. {a tulip}. 

Tulipa heteropetala? Stony south-facing slope: Marble Pass and near Markakol (especially to 

north). {a tulip}. 

Tulipa heterophylla Flushed rocky ground at high levels: Cim Bulak. {a tulip}. 

Tulipa patens? Stony south-facing slope: Marble Pass and near Markakol. {a tulip}. 

Veratrum lobelianum Often co-dominant in moister grasslands at all levels, sparser in light 

shade: around and above Markakol, and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a 

false-helleborine} 

Veratrum nigrum Low scrub at mid-levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass and toward north 

end of Austrian Road. {Black False-Helleborine}. 

37

Alliaceae 

Allium altaicum? Coarse flush vegetation above Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Very tall 

fistulose onion with whitish globular head} 

Allium atrosanguineum Moist rocky slopes in upper Cim Bulak. {a garlic}. 

Allium caesium Low scrub margins on Marble Pass. {a blue garlic}. 

Allium hymenorrhizum Drier grasslands at all levels: Cim Bulak and between Zaysan lake and 

Ust-Kamenogorsk. {a garlic}. 

Allium ledebourianum? Streamsides and marshy sites mainly at mid-levels: above and around 

Markakol. {Large fistulose onion} 

Allium polyphyllum Stony slopes at high levels in Cim Bulak. {a garlic}. 

Allium rubens? Drier grassland north of Markakol. {a slender garlic with dense nodding 

head enclosed in a spathe} 

Allium senescens? Drier grassland north of Markakol. {a garlic with flattened winged stems 

and nodding spherical head of pale whitish flowers} 

[Allium spp. a) Large fruiting on arid slopes at Kiin Kerish.; b) small pink by springfed 

saltmarsh in Zaysan depression; c) white flowered species on rocks 

by northern Austrian Road] 

Amaryllidaceae 

Ixiolirion tataricum Steppe grassland above spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. 

Iridaceae 

Iris bloudowii Drier short grassland, mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinksiy Hills (probably 

this), Cold Pass, south of Markakol, and picnic bluff on Austrian Road. 

{short pale yellow iris}. 

Iris ruthenica Grassland and more open forest, mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, 

around and above Markakol (including Cold Pass)., Burkhat Pass, and 

around Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a blue iris}. 

Iris scariosa? One plant at foot of south-facing slope on north side of Markakol. {small 

lilac iris, broad blunt falls and glaucous leaves} 

Iris tigridia South-facing grassy slope on Marble Pass. {iris of pogon group} 

[Iris #1 Lush vegetation above spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. 

{large fruiting iris with foetid leaves like the British Gladdon}]. 

Orchidaceae 

Coeloglossum viride Grassland at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, north of Markakol, and Burkhat 

Pass. {Frog Orchid – plants in steppe-like grassland north of Markakol 

strongly resembled subsp. longibracteata}. 

Dactylorhiza fuchsii Moist grassland, marshes and light shade: around and above Markakol, 

southern Austrian Road, Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi and riverside willows 

by access to latter. {Common Spotted-orchid} 

Dactylorhiza incarnata Marshes and wet depressions: Markakol (including hybrids with the 

latter), Austrian Road and by Karakaba river. {Early Marsh-orchid}. 

Dactylorhiza umbrosa Wet flushes in the mountains and marshy grassland at lower altitudes: 

Cim Bulak, and above Marble Pass. {a marsh-orchid} 

[Dactylorhiza #1 Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {closest to latter, but 

with twisted ovary, spur longer than ovary, swept-back sepals, littlemarked 

lip, other perianth segments forming a galea – options include D. 

knorringiana, D. salina or a form of D. traunsteineri}] 

Goodyera repens Mossy ground in mixed conifer forest by Austrian Road north of Burkhat 

Pass. {Creeping Lady’s-tresses} 

Herminium monorchis Abundant (patches of >> 50/m 2 ) in seasonally wet grassland in 

Bukhtarma valley. {Musk Orchid} 

38

D. DICOTYLEDONES “Dicot” flowering plants 

Salicaceae 

Populus laurifolia Along rivers and in floodplain forest: near south end of Austrian Road, 

and by Bukhtarma river near campsite. {a poplar} 

Populus nigra s.l. Along rivers in steppe areas: Kalbinskiy Hills. {Black Poplar}. 

Populus tremula Woodland at low-mid levels, especially near water: above Almaty, 

Kalbinskiy Hills, and southern Austrian Road. {Aspen}. 

Salix caprea Damp scrub at low-mid levels: Markakol. {Goat Willow} 

Salix cinerea s.l. Roadside scrub north of Markakol. {Grey Willow} 

Salix kokiana? Streamside below spruce forest south of Markakol, and by Karakaba 

river. (a willow} 

Salix pentandra By rivers at low-mid levels: Markakol. {Bay Willow} 

Salix purpurea Scrub by Karakaba river. {Purple Willow} 

Salix viminalis Floodplain forest: near south of Austrian Road. {Osier} 

[Salix #1 By rivers at low-mid levels: Markakol and near south end of Austrian 

Road. {willow, oval leaves, glaucous beneath – S. caesia/rorida?}] 

[Salix #2 Dwarf birch scrub at high levels: Burkhat Pass. {Dwarf willow with 

leaves like S. phylicifolia and glaucous beneath}] 

[Salix #3 Grass/sedge/lichen community by road on Burkhat Pass. {Prostrate with 

tiny oval leaves 7mm across}] 

[Salix #4 Moist low vegetation on Burkhat Pass. {Prostrate/ascending with green 

leaves like small sallow, silky catkins and red anthers}] 

[Salix #5 Upper levels of conifer woodland and rocks/cols above tree-line: around 

and above Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {1m tall willow with very grey 

leaves like a small sallow, whitish beneath, revolute edge}] 

Betulaceae 

Betula pendula Woodland at all levels, often near water: above Almaty, Kalbinskiy Hills; 

around and above Markakol. {Silver Birch}. 

Betula rotundifolia Dense 1m tall thickets under conifers and above tree line: Cold Pass, 

valley of Karakaba, Burkhat Pass and around Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{a dwarf birch} 

[Betula #1 Conifer forest below and north of Burkhat Pass. {tree birch with bronze 

bark}] 

[Betula #2 Upper conifer woodland approaching Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. [2-3m 

tall shrub with small narrow-cordate leaves – B. microphylla?}} 

Ulmaceae 

Ulmus androsowii Shelterbelts along roads at low levels, often the only tree in steppe areas: 

very widespread and also planted in urban areas. {an elm, with narrow 

leaves}. 

Ulmus minor Woodland at low levels above Almaty. {Common Elm}. 

Cannabaceae 

Cannabis sativa Waste places and arable fields (where either cultivated or a weed): Ust- 

Kamenogorsk and campsites at Zaysan and Kamenka apiary. {Hemp}. 

Humulus lupulus Scrub margins above Almaty and poplar gallery woodland in Kalbinskiy 

Hills. {Hop}. 

39

Urticaceae 

Urtica cannabina Roadsides and fallow/waste ground: apiary campsite near Keramka and 

by Uryl checkpoint. {a nettle with 5-lobed leaves} 

Urtica dioica Shady and nutrient-rich sites at low-mid levels: above Almaty and at 

Markakol. {Stinging Nettle – some plants are almost stingless and with 

narrow leaves, resembling U. galeopsifolia}. 

Santalaceae 

Thesium refractum? Drier grassland and rocks at mid-high levels: around Markakol, picnic 

spot on south Austrian Road, and Burkhat Pass. {a bastard-toadflax} 

Thesium repens? Forming patches in light shade: south end of Austrian Road and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a bastard-toadflax} 

Polygonaceae 

Persicaria bistorta Montane grassland at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak and Burkhat Pass. 

{Bistort}. 

Persicaria vivipara Montane grassland at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak and Bukhtarma Valley 

(including by northern Austrian Road).. {Alpine Bistort}. 

Polygonum alpinum Abundant in hill and mountain grasslands: Cim Bulak and Kalbinskiy 

Hills. {Alpine Knotweed}. 

Polygonum aviculare s.l. Roadsides and disturbed ground: Ust-Kamenogorsk and Markakol. 

{Knotgrass}. 

Polygonum undulatum Rocky grassland at upper levels: Cim Bulak and Burkhat Pass. {a 

knotweed}. 

[Polygonum sp? Arid badland hummocks at Kiin Kerish. {Presumably this genus, a low 

subshrub with narrow lanceolate leaves and herbaceous branches bearing 

delicate nodding 3-part flowers, white edged in pink}]. 

Rheum altaicum? Drier south-facing grass slopes above Markakol. {a rhubarb} 

Rheum wittroekii Moist grassland at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {a rhubarb}. 

Rheum nanum? Arid slopes: Kiin Kerish, and north of Markakol. {a small rhubarb}. 

Rumex acetosa Grassland (except arid) at all levels: Markakol, southern Austrian Road, 

and Burkhat Pass. {Common Sorrel} 

Rumex tianshanicus Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a dock}. 

Chenopodiaceae 

Arthrophyton haloxylon Saline semi-desert, locally common: Zaysan depression. {Saxual} 

Chenopodium suecicum? Ruderal habitats in villages: Urunkhayka. {a goosefoot} 

Chenopodium urbicum? Disturbed ground, especially in arid places: Ust-Kamenogorsk and Kiin 

Kerish (elsewhere in Zaysan depression). {Upright Goosefoot}. 

Halimione verrucifera? Salt-steppe in the Zaysan depression, notably by spring-fed marsh {a 

“sea-purslane”} 

Halocnemum strobilaceum? Low-lying saline areas of semi-desert where water stood late: Zaysan 

depression. {a perennial glasswort}. 

[Kochia sp.? Dry and saline semi-desert at Kiin Kerish and by salt-spring. {Mats of 

needle like leaves, and erect flowering stems}] 

Nanophyton erinaceum Saline arid badlands at Kiin Kerish. {no common name}. 

Salsola kali Arid cliff top at Kiin Kerish. {Spineless Saltwort, subsp. ruthenica} 

[Salsola spp. Gravel ridges by saltmarsh below spring in Zaysan semi-desert. {S. 

collina, S. nitraria or S. soda are possibilities}] 

[Suaeda spp. Saline steppe: Zaysan depression e.g. by spring-fed saltmarsh. {S. 

acuminata, S. heterophylla and S. microphylla are possibilities}] 

40

Amaranthacaceae 

Amaranthus retroflexus Weed in Panfilov Park, Almaty {Common Amaranth} 

Portulacaceae 

Claytonia joanneana Gaps in dwarf birch scrub and grassland above, at high levels on Burkhat 

Pass. {a spring-beauty} 

Caryophyllaceae 

Acanthophyllum pungens Arid cliff-top and slopes at Kiin Kerish. {no common name}. 

Cerastium cerastioides Grasslands and rocks at mid-high levels, often common: Cim Bulak, 

around/above Markakol, and Burkhat Pass. {Starwort Mouse-ear}. 

Cerastium dahuricum Disturbed ground at low-mid altitudes: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, and 

Markakol. {a mouse-ear}. 

Cerastium fontanum Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak and Markakol. {Common 

Mouse-ear}. 

[Cerastium #1 Mossy flushes by southern Austrian Road. {linear-leaved mouse-ear 

with large flowers}] 

Dianthus hoeltzeri Drier grassy bluffs in the Kalbinskiy Hills. {a pink}. 

Dianthus superbus Drier grassland north of Markakol. {a pink} 

Dianthus versicolor? Dry south-facing grassland on Burkhat Pass. {a pink} 

[Dianthus #1 Dry steppe grassland at Alekseyevka. {a slender white pink}]. 

[Dianthus #2 Stony ridges in wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {a laciniate pinkflowered 

pink}] 

Eremogone longifolia? Steep south-facing steppe slope at Marble Pass. {resembles a tall erect 

long linear-leaved sandwort} 

Gypsophila paniculata Dry, often sandy ground in steppe and semi-desert, including stony 

verges: Zaysan campsite and west from north ferry. {a gypsophila}. 

[Gypsophila #1 Stony ridges in wet grassland, Bukhtarma valley. {tall glaucous 

gypsophila, leaves mostly basal/lower stem, quite dense clusters of large 

white flowers in distant widely branched raceme – maybe G. 

capituliflora or G. diffusa?}] 

[Gypsophila #2 Stony slope near lower Rakhmanovskie lake. {a prostrate gypsophila, 

resembling G. glandulosa of section Heterochroa – which is endemic to 

Turkey}] 

Herniaria glabra Dry stony slope 10km north of Markakol. {Smooth Rupturewort} 

Minuartia biflora? Sedge/grass/lichen vegetation: near road on Burkhat Pass and above 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Northern Sandwort} 

Minuartia verna Grassy dry bluffs at high levels on Burkhat Pass. {Spring Sandwort} 

Moehringia umbrosa Mossy ground in spruce forests, less often in sheltered rock crevices: 

Cold Pass, all along Austrian Road and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a 

sandwort} 

Sagina procumbens Wet mossy turf at all levels: Markakol. {Mossy Pearlwort} 

Sagina saginoides? Mossy flushes by southern Austrian Road. {Alpine Pearlwort – may be a 

related species} 

Silene adenopetala Rocks at high levels in Cim Bulak. {Low campion with few nodding 

flowers, each with an inflated sticky calyx almost concealing petals} 

Silene otites Steppe west of Zaysan north ferry. {Spanish Catchfly} 

Silene vulgaris Scrub and meadows at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {Bladder Campion – 

locally known as S. wallichiana}. 

[Silene #1 Open dry pine wood in Kalbinskiy Hills. {Like a white campion with 

long very sticky inflorescence, with flowers apparently arranged in 

branched whorls}]. 

41

[Silene #2 Rock crevices by southern Austrian Road. {intermediate in appearance 

between S. nutans and S. otites – tiny white flowers on one-sided 

inflorescence, very sticky stem}] 

Stellaria graminea Grassland at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {Lesser Stitchwort}. 

Tunica stricta Drier grassland at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, and 

north of Markakol. {no common name}. 

Paeoniaceae 

Paeonia anomala Low scrub and forest margins at low-mid levels: Kalbinksiy Hills, locally 

abundant around Markakol, riverine forest south end of Austrian Road, 

and north of Berel. {a large pink peony}. 

Paeonia hybrida Steep stony south-facing slope on Marble Pass and verges west from 

Zaysan north ferry. {a peony}. 

Ranunculaceae 

Aconitum baicalense Mossy damp willow scrub in Markakol. {a monk’s-hood} 

Aconitum leucostonum Mountain meadows, flushed slopes and open woodland: above Almaty, 

Kalbinskiy Hills, around and above Markakol, south end of Austrian 

Road, Burkhat Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a monk’s-hood}. 

Aconitum songoricum Woodland margins at low-mid levels above Almaty. (a monk's-hood} 

Anemone altaica Woodland at low-mid levels, sometimes moist: Markakol and nearby, 

and southern end of Austrian Road. {an anemone – closely related to A. 

nemorosa} 

Anemone crinita? Open dry grassland at high levels: Burkhat Pass. {anemone of the A. 

narcissiflora group – but (unlike next) grey-hairy}. 

Anemone protracta Grassland at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak. {anemone of A. narcissiflora 

group}. 

[Anemone #1 Grassy bluffs in the Kalbinskiy hills. {white slender anemone – “lisnaie” 

in Russian}]. 

Aquilegia atrovinosa Mountain meadows at mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a columbine}. 

Aquilegia brevicalcarata Rocky ground in shade of spruce: all along Austrian Road at mid-levels, 

and by track to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a columbine} 

Aquilegia glandulosa Mountain meadows at all levels, and also in shade: around and above 

Markakol (including Cold Pass), entire length of Austrian Road, Burkhat 

Pass, and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (access track, and colouring the slopes 

above the site). {a columbine} 

Atragene sibirica Rocks and scrub at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, around and above 

Markakol, and all along Austrian Road. {a white clematis} 

Callianthemum alatavicum Fine scree etc soil at high levels in Cim Bulak. {no common name}. 

Callianthemum angustifolium Edge of snow-patches, moist stony grassland at mid-upper levels: Cold 

Pass, Burkhat Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {no common name} 

Caltha palustris Streamsides and marshy sites, often dominant along streams at mid-high 

levels: common in Markakol area, south end of Austrian End., Burkhat 

Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Marsh-marigold}. 

Clematis integrifolia Dry grassland, open low scrub etc at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, 

Marble Pass, and abundant north of Markakol. {a scrambling clematis}. 

Consolida orientalis Fields and disturbed ground from Bukhtarma valley to Zaysan lake. 

{Eastern Larkspur} 

Delphinium altaicum Low scrub at low-mid altitudes: Marble Pass. {a delphinium – possibly 

the same species above Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi}. 

Delphinium elatum Mountain meadows: above Almaty and Markakol. {a delphinium}. 

[Delphinium spp. a) Stony gorge by Kamenka apiary campsite; and b) a branched bright 

blue plant in steppe west from the Zaysan north ferry. {delphiniums}] 

42

Isopyrum isopyroides Sheltered rocks and shade at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak. {no common 

name}. 

Paraquilegia anemonoides Cliff crevices in upper Cim Bulak. {no common name}. 

Pulsatilla patens Drier grassland at all levels: Kalbinskiy Hills and north of Markakol. {a 

pasque-flower}. 

Ranunculus altaicus Margins of snow patches, mainly at high levels: Burkhat Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a buttercup} 

Ranunculus auricomus s.s. Woodland at low-mid levels: Markakol and southern Austrian Road. 

{Goldilocks Buttercup} 

Ranunculus polyanthemos Taller grassland at low-mid levels: at and above Markakol. (a buttercup} 

Ranunculus repens Nutrient-rich grassland by houses and streamsides: around Markakol. 

{Creeping Buttercup} 

[Ranunculus #1 Margins of late snow patches on the Kalbinskiy Hills. {Low yellow 

buttercup with flowers in a subumbellate cluster}]. 

Thalictrum alpinum Mossy/lichen dominated vegetation amongst dwarf birch on Burkhat 

Pass. {Alpine meadow-rue} 

Thalictrum collinum Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Marble Pass and Markakol. {a 

meadow-rue}. 

Thalictrum minus Riverine scrub/woodland: south end of Austrian Road, by R. Karakaba 

and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi forest. {Lesser Meadow-rue – subsp. 

majus} 

Thalictrum simplex? Grasslands at mid-levels: Cold Pass. {a meadow-pass} 

Trollius altaicus Grassland and open woodland, especially at mid-levels, where it colours 

the ground: Kalbinskiy Hills, near Marble Pass, around and above 

Markakol (+ Cold Pass) and north of Berel. {a globe-flower} 

Trollius dshungarius Moist grasslands at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {a globe-flower}. 

Trollius lilacinus Stony slopes recently covered in snow at high altitudes in Cim Bulak. {a 

globe-flower}. 

Berberidaceae 

Gymnospermium altaicum Stony moist slopes with incomplete vegetation cover: near Cold Pass, 

and north of Markakol to southern Austrian Road {no common name – 

related to Leontice} 

Papaveraceae 

Chelidonium majus Fine scree and rocky edges at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, by apiary 

campsite near Kamenka, and near Berel. {Greater Celandine – Altai 

populations are much bigger-flowered than those of Europe}. 

Corydalis nobilis Woodland margins and shady rocks all levels: Markakol (including Cold 

Pass) and Austrian Road north of Burkhat Pass. {a corydalis} 

Corydalis pauciflora? Under willow bushes near National Park HQ, Markakol. {Small creamy 

white corydalis}. 

Fumaria vaillantii Apiary campsite near Kamenka. {Few-flowered Fumitory} 

Hypercoum lactiflorum? Gravel spit at Zaysan campsite. {a whitish Hypercoum}. 

Papaver croceum Meadows and rocks at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak. {a yellow poppy}. 

Papaver nudicaule Roadsides, drier grasslands mainly at mid-levels: above Marble Pass, 

Cold Pass, south end of Austrian Road, by Karakaba river, Burkhat Pass 

(and below to north – where present in huge range of colours from white 

to dark orange). {a pale yellow poppy} 

Papaver tianshanicum Rocky ground at high levels in Cim Bulak. {an orange poppy}. 

43

Brassicaceae 

Alyssum lenense? Rocky outcrop by picnic spot on south Austrian Road. {short silvery 

perennial Alison – possibly A. turkestanicum} 

[Alyssum #1 Dry stony ridges in wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {a white-hairy 

Alison – A. campestre? Possibly this species also in sandy semi-desert 

between Zaysan lake and Ust-Kamenogorsk}] 

Arabidopsis thaliana Stony ground by Karakaba river. {Thale Cress} 

Arabis glabra Drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak and Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Tower Mustard}. 

Barbarea vulgaris Open ground and moist sites at all levels: Cim Bulak, Markakol and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Common Winter-cress – subsp. arcuata}. 

Berteroa incana Roadsides and dry grassland, notably in steppe: Ust-Kamenogorsk, 

Marble Pass and Bukhtarma valley. {Hoary Alison}. 

Bunias orientalis Roadsides in Kalbinskiy Hills. {Warty Cabbage} 

Capsella bursa-pastoris Ruderal habitats in villages: Urunkhayka and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{Shepherd’s-purse} 

Cardamine macrophylla? Swamp woodland and streamsides at low-mid levels: Markakol, south 

end of Austrian Road and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a large bittercress 

with leaves like those of Pimpinella major} 

Cardamine pratensis Marshes: on tree-line below Burkhat Pass and by lake at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Cuckoo-flower – notably dark pink form} 

Cardaria repens Roadsides at low-mid levels in drier areas: Kalbinskiy Hills. {is this 

actually different to C. draba, the Hoary Pepperwort?} 

Chorispora bungeana Fine scree at high levels in Cim Bulak. {no common name}. 

Descurainia sophia Roadsides and open ground, especially in steppe: Ust-Kamenogorsk, 

Uryl ckeckpoint and west through Bukhtarma valley. {Flixweed}. 

Draba lanceolata? Rocks and stony slopes at mid-high altitudes: Cim Bulak and by Nn. 

Austrian Road. {a whitlow-grass, closely allied to D. incana}. 

Draba sibirica? Rock crevices, mainly at high levels: picnic bluff on Austrian Road and 

on Burkhat Pass {Low yellow whitlow-grass with longish leafless stem – 

may possibly be D. melanopus or D. subamplexicaulis} 

Erysimum croceum Rocky bluffs at mid altitudes in Cim Bulak. {an orange wallflower}. 

Erysimum diffusum? Trackside north out of Markakol. {Resembling a very leafy E. 

cheiranthoides} 

[Erysimum #1 Sandy semi-desert by Zaysan south ferry. {Large-flowered rather narrow 

erect treacle-mustard}]. 

Eutrema integrifolia? Rocky slopes at high levels in Cim Bulak. {Rather robust cress with 

lanceolate leaves and flat-topped heads of white flowers}]. 

Hesperis sibirica Scrub and woodland margins at all levels: Cim Bulak, above Markakol, 

south end of Austrian Road, and by Bukhtarma R. near Berel. {a dame’sviolet 

– usually white in this area, but also pink}. 

Isatis laevigata Stony roadsides in the Kalbinskiy Hills. {a woad}. 

Lepidium crassifolium? Edge of spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan depression. {a pepperwort}. 

Lepidium latifolium Moist saline areas in semi-desert: Zaysan campsite. {Dittander}. 

Lepidium ruderale Disturbed ground, mainly by roads in steppe: Zaysan depression and 

throughout Bukhtarma valley including Uryl. {Narrow-leaved 

Pepperwort}. 

Macropodium nivale Sheltered moist areas by rocks high on Burkhat Pass. {no common name 

– rather resembling Lagotis, and temporarily confused!} 

Matthiola tatarica? Stony ridges in wet grassland, Bukhtarma valley. {a stock} 

Rorippa sylvestris Disturbed damp waysides near Markakol. {Creeping Yellow-cress} 

Sisymbrium septulatum? Disturbed ground in dry steppe areas: Zaysan campsite and north ferry. 

{mustard close to S. altissimum, the Tumbling Mustard}. 

44

Thlaspi arvense Ruderal and disturbed habitats: Markakol. {Field Pennycress} 

[unknown crucifer #1 Arid slopes and Artemisia steppe: Kiin Kerish. {Tiny fruiting cress with 

disk fruit and amplexicaul lanceolate leaves}]. 

[unknown crucifer #2 Artemisia steppe near shore of Zaysan lake. {Large fruiting cabbage 

with fruit composed of two abutting discs}] 

Crassulaceae 

Orostachys spinosa Rocks, stony dry ground: Kalbinskiy Hills, picnic spot on Austrian Road, 

and Bukhtarma valley. {succulent resembling houseleek} 

Rhodiola coccinea Rocks at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, Cold Pass. {a roseroot}. 

Rhodiola heterodonta? Rocky slopes in upper Cim Bulak. {a roseroot with rather broad serrate 

leaves}. 

Rhodiola rosea Streamsides and wet rocks at mid-high levels: above Markakol, riverine 

woodland at south end of Austrian Road, Karakaba river, and conifer 

woodland in Bukhtarma valley. {Roseroot} 

Rhodiola semenovii By streams at high levels in Cim Bulak. {a roseroot}. 

Rhodiola viridula Flushes at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {a roseroot}. 

Sedum hybridum Rocks and dry open slopes up to mid-levels: above Almaty, Kalbinskiy 

Hills, and around Markakol. {a stonecrop}. 

Saxifragaceae 

Bergenia crassifolia Rock outcrops above treeline, and rocky slopes within conifer forest: 

Burkhat Pass, Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley, and around/above 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Elephant-ears} 

Chrysosplenium tianshanicum? Mossy flushes in spruce forest and at higher levels at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {a golden-saxifrage with thin alternate leaves}. 

Chrysosplenium nudicaule? Moist foot of cliffs in upper Cim Bulak. {a golden-saxifrage with thick 

leaves and dense cluster of fruit}. 

Saxifraga punctata? Margins of streams at mid-levels, also in moist woodland and locally on 

rocks on high levels: Markakol, all along Austrian Road, Burkhat Pass 

and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a saxifrage} 

Saxifraga sibirica Rocky ground at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, picnic site on Austrian 

Road, Burkhat Pass and rocks in forest to N. {Siberian Saxifrage}. 

Parnassiaceae 

Parnassia palustris Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley {Grass-of-Parnassus} 

Grossulariaceae 

Grossularia acicularis Rocky slopes and steppe: north of Markakol and west of Zaysan north 

ferry. {a gooseberry} 

Ribes meyeri? Drier woodland at low-mid-levels: Markakol, Cold Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a currant – with dull reddish flowers; possibly 

R. atropurpureum} 

Ribes nigrum Moist woodland at low-mid levels: Markakol, along Austrian Road (by 

river at south end and forest near north end) and Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Black Currant – creamy white flower spikes}. 

Rosaceae 

Agrimonia asiatica Roadsides: above Almaty. {an agrimony}. 

Alchemilla scalaris? Wet grassland and streamsides above Markakol. {an almost hairless 

lady’s-mantle} 

Alchemilla sibirica Drier grassland at mid-levels: Markakol. {a very hairy lady’s-mantle} 

45

Alchemilla vulgaris s.l. Flushes and mountain grasslands at mid–levels: Cim Bulak. {“Common 

Lady’s-mantles” occurred widely, some records were provisionally 

referred to particular species}. 

Cotoneaster melanocarpus? Low scrub (often of Spiraea) and rocky areas, mainly at mid-levels: 

Kalbinksiy Hills, Marble Pass, Cold Pass, and Burkhat Pass. {Typical 

neat small-leaved (1-3cm) Cotoneaster, white beneath; pinkish flowers}]. 

Cotoneaster multiflorus? Low scrub and rocks, often with latter species: Kalbinskiy Hills pine 

woods, Marble and Cold Passes. {Larger more open Cotoneaster with 

white flowers, and softer leaves, not white beneath and to 5cm in length}. 

Crataegus songorica Scrub: above Almaty. {a hawthorn}. 

[Crataegus #1 Roadside north out of Markakol. {Hawthorn with leaves like a small 

Sorbus torminalis}] 

Dryas oxyodonta Locally dominant in patches of stony herbaceous vegetation amongst 

dwarf birch scrub, and especially above the birch: Burkhat Pass. {a 

mountain-avens} 

Filipendula ulmaria Damp streamside scrub and wet woodland: Kalbinskiy Hills and 

Markakol. {Meadow-sweet}. 

Filipendula vulgaris Dry grassland and steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills and near Kamenka. 

{Dropwort}. 

Fragaria vesca Dry grassland: north of Markakol. {Wild Strawberry} 

Fragaria viridis Drier grasslands and scrub: Kalbinskiy Hills. {a strawberry}. 

Geum aleppicum By stream in apiary campsite near Kamenka. {an avens}. 

Geum rivale Flushes, damp grassland and scrub at all levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy 

Hills, Markakol and south Austrian Road. {Water Avens} 

Geum urbanum Shady areas at low-mid altitudes: above Almaty. {Herb Bennet}. 

Potentilla anserina Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert and seasonally wet grassland 

in Bukhtarma valley. {Silverweed}. 

Potentilla argentea s.l. Drier grassland at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Ust-Kamenogorsk and 

Kalbinskiy Hills. {Hoary Cinquefoil}. 

Potentilla asiatica Dry grassland north of Markakol. {a cinquefoil} 

Potentilla bifurca Drier grasslands at low-mid levels, especially in more steppic sites: Cim 

Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills and Marble Pass. {a cinquefoil}. 

Potentilla chrysantha Turf at low levels at Markakol. {a cinquefoil} 

Potentilla fruticosa Rocky ground at mid-high levels, sometimes by streams: Cim Bulak, 

Cold Pass, by Karakaba River, Burkhat Pass and Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Shrubby Cinquefoil} 

Potentilla palustris Swamp woodland and marshes: Markakol and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{Marsh Cinquefoil} 

Potentilla recta Dry or open steppic grasslands: Marble and Cold Passes. {Sulphur 

Cinquefoil} 

[Potentilla #1 Roadsides in Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Small-flowered yellow cinquefoil, 

with pinnate leaves, 5-7 leaflets, diminishing in size from basal}]. 

[Potentilla #2 Sandy semi-desert between Zaysan lake and Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Patch 

forming cinquefoil resembling intense grey P. reptans}] 

Prunus padus Riverine woodland at south end of Austrian Road. {Bird Cherry} 

Rosa acicularis? Low scrub in low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, north of Markakol and 

steppe west of Zaysan north ferry. {a rose with dense soft “prickles” and 

pink flowers}. 

Rosa kokanica Drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a rose}. 

Rosa spinosissima Margin of Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley. {Burnet Rose} 

[Rosa #1 Low dense scrub, mainly at low- mid levels: Kalbinksiy Hills. {a 1m tall 

rose with many 3cm diameter white flowers}] 

Rubus idaeus Low scrub at all levels: Cim Bulak and Markakol. {Raspberry}. 

Rubus saxatilis Block scree above Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Stone Bramble} 

46

Sanguisorba alpina Flushes and streamsides at low-mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {a burnet}. 

Sanguisorba officinalis Grassland at low-mid levels: Markakol, (including Cold Pass), northern 

Austrian Road and in Bukhtarma valley. {Great Burnet} 

Sibbaldia procumbens Short turf and margins of snow patches at high levels: Burkhat Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Sibbaldia} 

Sorbus sibirica Scattered in conifer forests at mid-high levels: north from Burkhat Pass. 

{a mountain-ask} 

Sorbus tianshanica Scrub at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {a mountain-ash}. 

Spiraea hypericifolia Scrub at all levels, often in relatively dry steppic sites: Cim Bulak, 

Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass, north of Markakol, near Kamenka in 

Bukhtarma valley and west of Zaysan north ferry. {a bridewort}. 

Spiraea media 1 Scrub at all levels, generally in less arid sites: Kalbinskiy Hills, at and 

near Markakol, and southern Austrian Road. {a bridewort}. 

Spiraea pilosa Scrub at mid-high level: Cim Bulak and north of Markakol. {a 

bridewort}. 

Fabaceae 

Alhagi kirghisorum? Roadsides in semi-desert of Zaysan depression. {low spiny shrub with 

reddish flowers} 

Astragalus alpinus Grasslands at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, and by Karakaba river. 

{Alpine Milk-vetch}. 

Astragalus andaulgensis? Drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak and north of Markakol {a 

hairy milk-vetch with yellow flowers stalkless in a cluster at the base of 

the leaves}. 

[Astragalus #1 Drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills and by 

spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {Robust plant like Wild 

Liquorice, with spikes of flowers of two-tone pink – at Zaysan purplish 

and possibly another species}]. 

[Astragalus # 2 Stony slopes: Kalbinskiy Hills. {Slender milk-vetch with dense spikes of 

small rose-pink flowers}]. 

[Astragalus #3 Sandy semi-desert by Zaysan south ferry. {Short “hedgehog” milk-vetch 

with few silvery narrow leaflets}]. 

[Astragalus #4 Arid steppe at Alekseyevka. {Robust milk-vetch with dense long-oval 

pale-yellow heads with silky-haired calyces}]. 

[Astragalus #5 Arid steppe at Alekseyevka. {Low milk-vetch with dense round yellow 

heads, fruiting calyces much inflated}]. 

[Astragalus #6 Arid steppe and rocky ground: Alekseyevka and Karakaba river. {Low 

milk-vetch with violet flowers and black hairs on calyx, resembling A. 

danicus}]. 

[Astragalus #7 Dry south-facing grass slope on Marble Pass. {like A. onobrychis}] 

[Astragalus #8 Grassy bluffs at high levels on Burkhat Pass. {violet and blue, shaggy 

hairy milk-vetch – another plant at this site with pink flowers is probably 

merely a colour-variant}] 

Halimodendron halodendron Steep dry slopes at Kiin Kerish. {spiny shrub – no common name} 

Hedysarum consanguineum? Moist grassland at mid-higher levels: Cold Pass, by Karakaba river and 

Burkhat pass. {a French-sainfoin} 

Hedysarum flavescens Streamsides at mid-levels in Cim Bulak. {a French-sainfoin}. 

Hedysarum neglectum Grassland at upper levels: Cim Bulak. {a French-sainfoin}. 

Lathyrus gmelinii Lush grasslands and light shade at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, 

around and above Markakol, and around Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a 

bitter-vetch – in the Rakhmanovskie area often with an otherwise similar 

1 Are some populations of S. media/pilosa referable to S. chamaedryfolia or S. triloba? 

47

plant with linear-lanceolate leaflets – a variety or distinct species?}. 

Lathyrus pratensis Grasslands at all levels: Cim Bulak and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{Meadow Pea}. 

Lathyrus tuberosus? Riverside scrub of Irtysh, Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Earthnut Pea}. 

[Lathyrus #1 Low scrub and lush grass at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, and north 

of Markakol. {pea with winged stem, large ovate stipules, leaves with ca 

8 leaflets, tendrils and a spike of pink-brown rather small flowers, fading 

multi-coloured – seems most likely to be L. humilis or L. pisiformis}]. 

Medicago falcata Dry grassland, especially on steppe: Ust-Kamenogorsk and near Zaysan 

north ferry. {Sickle Medick}. 

Medicago lupulina Grass verges in Bukhtarma valley. {Black Medick} 

Medicago sativa Disturbed grassland: near Zaysan north ferry. {Lucerne}. 

Medicago x varia With parents near Zaysan north ferry. {Sand Lucerne – Medicago 

falcata x M. sativa}. 

Melilotus alba Roadsides and rough grassland: Ust-Kamenogorsk. {White Melilot}. 

Melilotus officinalis Roadsides and rough grass: Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Common Melilot} 

Onobrychis amoena? Dry grassy bluffs in the Kalbinskiy Hills. {a pale sainfoin}. 

Onobrychis viciifolia Dry grassland and roadsides: Ust-Kamenogorsk and colouring fields 

(presumably cultivated) in the Bukhtarma valley. {Sainfoin}. 

Orobus luteus Montane woodlands and meadows: Cim Bulak. {a bitter-vetch}. 

Sophora alopecuroides Often dominant in disturbed or overgrazed areas in the steppe or semi- 

desert zones, where it is prominent by roads and near water: throughout 

Zaysan depression. {no common name}. 

Thermopsis alpina Stony slopes at high altitudes: Cim Bulak and Burkhat Pass. {no 

common name}. 

[Thermopsis #1 Stony ridges in wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {large, hairless, 

glaucous, yellow-flowered – probably T. alterniflora, T. lanceolata or T. 

turkestanica}] 

Trifolium fragiferum Lawns in Panfilov Park, Almaty. {Strawberry Clover} 

Trifolium lupinaster Grasslands at mid-high levels: around and above Markakol, by Karakaba 

river and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a clover}. 

Trifolium pratense Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak and Bukhtarma valley. {Red 

Clover}. 

Trifolium repens Nutrient-rich grassland at low-mid levels: around Markakol. {White 

Clover}. 

Trigonella arcuata More open grassland at low-mid levels: near Cold Pass and south of 

Markakol. {a fenugreek} 

Vicia tenuifolia Roadsides and meadows at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, 

and Bukhtarma valley part of Austrian Road. {a vetch}. 

[Vicia #1 Lush meadows and open forest: Markakol, Cold Pass. {Resembles a 

rather large lax V. sepium, with fewer flowers and half-hastate stipules}. 

Oxalidaceae 

Oxalis acetosella Spruce forest at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Wood-sorrel}. 

Geraniaceae 

Geranium affine Hill steppe west of pine forests in Kalbinskiy Hills. {a crane’s-bill} 

Geranium albiflorum Grasslands and light shade at all levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, 

around and above Markakol, Burkhat Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{a crane’s-bill}. 

Geranium collinum Grasslands: north and south of Markakol, by Austrian Road below (and 

north of) Burkhat Pass. {a crane’s-bill} 

48

Geranium pseudosibiricum? Forest edges and taller grassland: around Markakol. {Large pink cranesbill, 

apparently with two distinct flower sizes}. 

Geranium rectum? Moist grassland at lower levels: Cim Bulak. {Meadow Crane’s-bill} 

Geranium saxatile Rocky grassland at higher levels in Cim Bulak. {a crane’s-bill}. 

Zygophyllaceae 

Zygophyllum plerocarpum Arid cliff-top steppe at Kiin Kerish. {like a prostrate vetch with winged 

petiole – no common name}. 

Rutaceae 

Dictamnus angustifolius Scrub, meadows and sunny slopes: above Almaty, Kalbinskiy Hills, 

(locally abundant), and around Markakol. {Burning-bush}. 

Haplophyllum perforatum Dry steppe grassland at Alekseyevka. {no common name}. 

Polygalaceae 

Polygala hybrida Drier grassland at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills and Cold Pass {a 

milkwort}. 

Euphorbiaceae 

Euphorbia humilis? Grassland at high levels in Cim Bulak. {a spurge}. 

Euphorbia pilosa? Moist grassland at mid-levels: southern Austrian Road. {a spurge} 

Euphorbia virgata? Rough grassland and roadsides at low levels: Ust-Kamenogorsk. 

{Twiggy Spurge}. 

[Euphorbia #1 Artemisia steppe: Zaysan depression. {an annual spurge, broad leaved 

and regularly branched, spring flowering, now in late fruit}]. 

Aceraceae 

Acer negundo Naturalised in shelter belts and woodland margins, mainly at low levels: 

Cim Bulak and Kalbinskiy Hills. {Box-elder}. 

Balsaminaceae 

Impatiens parviflora Urban parks and scrub at low-mid levels: Almaty city and lower Cim 

Bulak. {Small Balsam}. 

Malvaceae 

Alcea nudiflora Sparingly on roadsides near Zaysan north ferry. {a hollyhock} 

Alcea frolovii? Roadsides and rough steppe grassland: Ust-Kamenogorsk, the Kalbinskiy 

Hills and near Katon-Karangay. {short pink hollyhock}. 

Lavatera thuringiaca With hollyhocks between Ust-Kamenogorsk and Katon-Karangay. {a 

tree-mallow} 

Thymelaeaceae 

Daphne altaica Low scrub on sheltered slope: Marble Pass. {no common name}. 

Hypericaceae 

Hypericum elongatum Dry grassland at low-mid altitudes: Marble Pass, and north from 

Markakol. {a St. John’s-wort} 

Hypericum perforatum Dry or disturbed grassland: Marble Pass. {Common St John’s-wort} 

Hypericum scabrum Dry grassland at low-mid altitudes: Marble Pass. {a St John’s-wort} 

49

Tamaricaceae 

Myricaria bracteata? Banks of lake and rivers: Zaysan campsite, Karakaba river and river by 

access track to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a “spiked tamarisk”}. 

Tamarix hispida? Lake shore at Zaysan campsite. {a tamarisk}. 

Violaceae 

Viola acutiloba Stony slopes at high altitudes in Cim Bulak. {a yellow pansy}. 

Viola altaica Drier grassland at mid-high levels, often abundant: Cim Bulak, Cold 

Pass, Burkhat Pass, and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a pansy, either pale 

yellow or violet}. 

Viola biflora Sheltered rocks at mid-high levels and scrub: Cim Bulak, Markakol, 

scattered along Austrian Road, Burkhat Pass, and around Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Yellow Wood-violet} 

Viola disjuncta Grasslands mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, around and above 

Markakol, and southern Austrian Road. {a typical pansy}. 

Viola palustris Damp mossy willow scrub etc: at and above Markakol and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi (where plants tiny, and possibly another related 

species?). {Marsh Violet} 

Viola rupestris? Occasional on rocky ground at mid-high levels: Cim, Bulak, Cold Pass, 

and all along Austrian Road. {Teesdale Violet} 

Onagraceae 

Chamerion angustifolium Scrub and meadows at low-mid levels: above Almaty, around and above 

Markakol, and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Rosebay}. 

Callitrichaceae 

Callitriche palustris Depressions in swamp birch woodland near Markakol. {a waterstarwort}. 

Cucurbitaceae 

Bryonia alba Scrub edges above Almaty. {a white-bryony}. 

Apiaceae 

Angelica decurrens Rocky streamsides etc: Cim Bulak, Markakol, and by Austrian Road in 

Bukhtarma valley. {an angelica}. 

Anthriscus sylvestris Lush grassland and forest margins: around Markakol. {Cow Parsley) 

Bupleurum aureum Grassland, mainly at mid-levels: Cold Pass and elsewhere near Markakol, 

along Austrian Road and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a hare’s-ear} 

Bupleurum krylovianum? Drier grassland from Markakol to the Austrian Road. {a hare’s-ear} 

Bupleurum longifolium? Low scrub at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills and Marble Pass. {a 

hare’s-ear}. 

Bupleurum multinerve? High-level ridges above Burkhat Pass. {a hare’s-ear – to be confirmed, 

plants immature} 

Conium maculatum Roadside: Uryl checkpoint. {Hemlock} 

Ferula krilovii Rockier and/or less saline parts of the Zaysan semi-desert – probably also 

this by Zaysan north ferry. {a giant-fennel}. 

Ferula penninervis? Drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a giant-fennel}. 

[Ferulago sp. Dry slopes at Kiin Kerish. {Like a low fennel, with few leaves}. 

Heracleum dissectum Scrub margins and streamsides at low-mid levels: above Almaty, around 

Markakol, and southern Austrian Road. {a hogweed}. 

Heracleum sibiricum Spruce forest and scrub margins: above Markakol. {a hogweed} 

Prangos ledebourii? Steppic grassland north of Markakol. {no common name} 

50

[unknown umbellifer #1 Grassland at low-mid levels: Markakol. {Resembling a pink pignut with 

linear rather than thread-like leaf segments}] 

[unknown umbellifer #2 Open areas amongst and above dwarf birch thickets on Burkhat Pass. 

{Rather resembles a Meum – genus unknown in Kazakhstan}] 

[unknown umbellifer #3 Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {Resembles a slender 

pinkish water-dropwort, but probably another genus – no fruit seen}] 

[unknown umbellifer #4 Col at 2200m above Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {finely-divided basal 

leaves and remains of last year’s stems – a Seseli species?}] 

Ericaceae 

Vaccinium myrtillus Understorey in spruce forest and high-level rocky grassland: Cold Pass, 

southern Austrian Road, Burkhat Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

{Bilberry}. 

Vaccinium vitis-idaea Under dwarf birch scrub and spruce forest at mid-high levels: Burkhat 

Pass and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Cowberry} 

Pyrolaceae 

Orthilia secunda Mossy ground in conifer forest by Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley. 

{Serrated Wintergreen} 

Pyrola minor Understorey in spruce forest: southern Austrian Road and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi, also in riverside willows by access track to 

latter. {Lesser Wintergreen}. 

Pyrola rotundifolia Mossy ground in conifer (especially spruce) forest and dwarf birch 

thickets: Burkhat Pass, Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley, forest at 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi and willow-scrub by river on track to last site. 

{Round-leaved Wintergreen – some plants in sunny ground had coralpink 

flowers} 

Primulaceae 

Androsace lactiflora Moist to quite dry turf, mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, at and 

around Markakol, and by Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley. {a rockjasmine}. 

Androsace maxima Dry open habitats in semi-desert and rock: Zaysan south ferry and Kiin 

Kerish. {Annual Rock-jasmine, subsp. turczaninovii} 

Androsace olgae Stony slopes at high altitudes in Cim Bulak. {a rock-jasmine} 

Androsace septentrionalis Moist more open or mossy vegetation by streams etc: Markakol and north 

to Austrian Road {Northern Rock-jasmine} 

Cortusa altaica By streams at low-mid levels and also on moist rocks at high levels: 

Markakol, forest by Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley and on Burkhat 

Pass. {an alpine-bells} 

Cortusa brotherii Flushes and by streams, mid-high level: Cim Bulak. {an alpine-bells} 

Glaux maritima Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {Sea-milkwort}. 

Primula algida Recent snowmelt and flushes at high level: Cim Bulak. {a primrose} 

Primula longiscapa Moist grassland, especially near streams at mid altitudes: around and 

above Markakol (including Cold Pass), Karakaba river, and Bukhtarma 

valley. {a primrose}. 

Primula nivalis By streams at mid-high altitudes in Cim Bulak. {a primrose}]. 

Primula sibirica By streams and wet mossy forest edges: below Rakhmanovskie and on 

lakeshore. {a primrose} 

Primula veris Margins of snow-patches and rocky slopes: Kalbinskiy Hills, by 

Karakaba river and Burkhat Pass. {Cowslip – subsp. macrocalyx} 

51

Plumbaginaceae 

Limonium gmelinii? Edge of spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan depression. (a sea-lavender} 

[Limonium #1 Arid saline hummocks and rocks: Kiin Kerish and Marble Pass. {Sealavender 

with prominent white calyx and flat rosette of glaucous 

oblanceolate leaves}]. 

Gentianaceae 

Gentiana aquatica Sedge/grass/lichen community by road on Burkhat Pass. {a gentian} 

Gentiana cruciata Open forest and high-level grassland to 2200m at Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Cross Gentian} 

Gentiana grandiflora Short turf, (notably by snow-patches) sometimes on forest edge and 

scrub, especially at mid-upper levels: Cold Pass, Burkhat Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a gentian} 

Gentiana uniflora Shorter grassland at mid-upper levels: Cold Pass, south of Markakol, and 

all along Austrian Road, including Burkhat Pass. {a gentian} 

[Gentiana #1 Mossy opening in spruce forest along southern Austrian Road and grassy 

gully at 2250m on Burkhat Pass. {resembles G. verna}] 

Halenia corniculata Margins of seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {Spur 

Gentian. This is the identity of one of the “mystery plants” in the orchid 

field - in leaf like a centaury; pairs (or three in a whorl) of 4-merous 

flowers; calyx cut to base, linear lobed; corolla of 4 yellow lanceolate 

lobes, separate for much of length, but with very pronounced hooked 

whitish spur at base}. 

Swertia obtusa All kinds of wet places e.g. swamp woodland, mossy flushes etc at all 

levels: around and above Markakol, southern Austrian Road (including 

Karakaba river}, and around Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a marsh felwort} 

Polemoniaceae 

Polemonium caeruleum Scrub and meadows at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, 

around Markakol, Cold Pass, and Berel. {Jacob’s-ladder}. 

Convolvulaceae 

Calystegia sepium Roadsides and scrub margins: above Almaty. {Greater Bindweed}. 

Convolvulus arvensis Roadsides and dry grassland, included disturbed steppe: Ust- 

Kamenogorsk. {Field Bindweed}. 

Apocynaceae 

Trachomitum lancifolium Banks of roadside ditch in Zaysan semi-desert. {no common name} 

Cuscutaceae 

Cuscuta campestris? Roadsides and coarse vegetation, mainly in steppe areas: Zaysan 

depression including spring-fed saltmarsh, and Marble Pass (spicata 

species too). {a dodder – at least another coarse yellow dodder present, 

with spicate inflorescence e.g. C. indica or C. monogyna}. 

Boraginaceae 

Asperugo procumbens Disturbed grassland north out of Markakol. {Madwort} 

Cynoglossum officinale? Dry grassland and scrub margins: Kalbinskiy Hills and Markakol. 

{Common Hound’s-tongue – some plants are notably narrow-leaved and 

may be C. capusii}. 

Echium vulgare Roadsides, fallow and disturbed steppe: above Almaty, Marble Pass and 

colouring fields from Katon-Karangay to Zaysan lake north ferry. 

52

{Viper’s Bugloss} 

Eritrichium tianshanicum Moist rocky slopes in upper Cim Bulak. {no common name} 

Eritrichium villosum? Short stony turf on the Cold Pass. {no common name} 

Heterocaryum spp.? Drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak and Markakol. {Relatives 

of the forget-me-nots with pale flowers in umbel-like inflorescences and 

narrow leaves}. 

[Lappula #1 Artemisia steppe: Zaysan south ferry and campsite. {a bur forget-me-not 

– possibly L. microcarpa – another species in Bukhtarma?}] 

Lithospermum arvense Drier grasslands at low-mid levels; Cim Bulak. {Field Gromwell}. 

[Mertensia sp. Scrub margins at low-mid levels in the Altai: Kalbinskiy Hills, Markakol, 

and by Karakaba river. {like a large-flowered blue lungwort with 

widely-spreading corolla-lobes}]. 

Myosotis alpestris Grassland and rocks at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, Markakol (and Cold 

Pass) and Burkhat Pass. {Alpine Forget-me-not – the similar M. 

sylvatica evidently absent from Kazakhstan}. 

Myosotis laxa Springline marsh north of Markakol. {Tufted Forget-me-not} 

Myosotis scorpioides Mossy streamsides at low-mid levels: Markakol and Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Water Forget-me-not} 

[Nonea #1 Dry grassy roadsides: east of Uryl and near Zaysan north ferry. {Nonea 

pulla or N. caspica?}} 

Onosma gmelinii? Drier grassland north of Markakol. {a golden-drop} 

[Onosma #1 Grassy bluffs in Kalbinskiy Hills. {a white “golden drop”}.]. 

Lamiaceae 

Dracocephalum grandiflorum Grassland at mid-high levels, where it may turn slopes blue: around and 

above Markakol (including Cold Pass}, and Burkhat Pass. {a 

dragonhead} 

Dracocephalum imberbe Rocks at high altitudes in Cim Bulak. {a dragonhead}. 

Dracocephalum ruyschiana Drier grasslands , mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass 

and around Markakol. {bright blue dragonhead with linear –lanceolate 

untoothed leaves}. 

[Dracocephalum sp. Grassland at high levels in Cim Bulak. {Resembling D. grandiflorum but 

slightly smaller flowered}. 

Eremostachys molucelloides Open arid more grassy steppe: Zaysan camp and Alekseyevka. {no 

common name} 

Eremostachys speciosa Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {no common name}. 

Glechoma hederacea Grass verges in Bukhtarma valley. {Ground-ivy} 

Hyssopus officinalis? Steppe west of Zaysan north ferry. {Hyssop: plant observed may belong 

to an allied genus, true hyssop seems to be absent } 

Lagochilus daicanthophyllus? Arid hummocks at Kiin Kerish. {palmately-lobed leaves, spiny calyx 

and pale pinkish flowers}. 

Lamium album Lush grassland in both village and natural montane habitats: Markakol. 

{White Dead-nettle}. 

Leonurus glaucescens Dry grassland and disturbed steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills, by spring-fed 

saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert, southern Austrian Road, and Uryl 

checkpoint. {a motherwort}. 

53

Mentha asiatica Flushes and marshes at all levels: Cim Bulak and Markakol. {a mint} 

Nepeta pannonica Grasslands at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak and Markakol (including Cold 

Pass). {a catmint}. 

Origanum vulgare Scrub and meadows at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, and north of 

Markakol. {Marjoram – the O. tyttanthum of the western Tien Shan 

probably belongs here}. 

Phlomis oreophila Grassland at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak. {a Jerusalem-sage}. 

[Phlomis #1 Grassland and open woodland around Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {similar 

to latter but with very long prominent bracteoles}] 

Phlomopsis brachystegia? Drier grassland at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass, around 

Markakol, Austrian Road (Bukhtarma Valley), and near Kamenka. {a 

Jerusalem-sage} 

Prunella vulgaris Grassland at all levels: Cim Bulak and Bukhtarma valley. {Self-heal} 

Salvia deserta Roadsides and steppe grassland, where often abundant and colouring 

slopes: Ust Kamenogorsk, Kalbinskiy Hills and Zaysan depression. {a 

sage}. 

Scutellaria orientalis Arid bluffs and rocks: Kiin Kerish, picnic spot on southern Austrian 

Road, and Burkhat Pass. {a skullcap} 

Scutellaria sieversii Shorter grassland at mid-levels: around Markakol. {a skullcap} 

[Scutellaria #1 Grassy bluffs in the Kalbinskiy Hills. {erect skullcap whose cream 

flowers have a purple throat – the same species with pure cream flowers 

further east?}]. 

[Scutellaria #2 Seasonally-wet grassland in Bukhtarma grassland. {skullcap with narrow 

leaves and disproportionately large blue flowers}] 

[Scutellaria #3 Seasonally-wet grassland in Bukhtarma grassland. {resembles S. 

galericulata, but shorter, neater and large blue flowers}] 

Thymus altaicus? Drier turf: southern Austrian Road and Burkhat Pass {a thyme} 

[Thymus sp. Dry grassland and steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills and west of Zaysan north 

ferry. {strongly scented thyme with notably long fruiting spike}. 

Ziziphora clinopodioides Dry grassland and steppe, locally also in montane zone of the Altai, 

where mainly on south-facing slopes: Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass., 

north of Markakol and sandy semi-desert between Zaysan lake and Ust- 

Kamenogorsk. {no common name}. 

[unknown Labiate #1 Seasonally wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley and margins of north 

Austrian Road. {Tall slightly foetid herb with leaves like spearmint, and 

large hooded blue-purple flowers}] 

Solanaceae 

Hyoscyamus niger Ruderal habitats in villages: Urunkhayka, and near Kamenka. 

{Henbane} 

Hyoscyamus pusillus Open gravel ridges by spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {a 

henbane} 

Solanum dulcamara Rough roadsides: Ust-Kamenogorsk and Marble Pass. {Bittersweet}. 

Scrophulariaceae 

Dodartia orientalis Steppe grassland: by spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert and 

between Zaysan lake and Ust-Kamenogorsk. {no common name}. 

Euphrasia tartarica? Grasslands at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {Eyebrights}. 

Lagotis integrifolia Open areas in dwarf birch scrub and grassland at high levels: Burkhat 

Pass. {no common name} 

[Linaria #1 Sandy semi-desert: Zaysan south ferry. {low yellow toadflax, widely 

branched and with linear leaves}]. 

54

[Linaria #2 Rock crevices: south Austrian Road and near Uryl. {similar to latter but 

erect and unbranched – L. acutiloba, L. altaica or L. hepatica?}] 

[Linaria #3 Sandy semi-desert between Zaysan north ferry and Ust-Kamenogorsk 

{Long-spurred lilac toadflax with thread-like leaves}] 

Pedicularis amoena Flushes, sometimes stony, at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, Cold Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a lousewort}. 

Pedicularis tristis Drier rocky grassland: by picnic spot on southern Austrian Road. {a 

lousewort} 

Pedicularis dolichorrhiza Grasslands at mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a lousewort}. 

Pedicularis dubia? Drier grassland north of Markakol. {a lousewort} 

Pedicularis oederi Dwarf birch scrub and grassland at high levels: Burkhat Pass {a 

lousewort} 

Pedicularis pubiflora Stony flushed slopes at high altitudes in Cim Bulak. {a lousewort} 

Pedicularis elata Lusher grasslands at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, and both around 

and above Markakol. {a lousewort}. 

Pedicularis compacta Flowery meadows in plateau south of Burkhat pass, and gaps in dwarf 

birch scrub on pass itself. {a lousewort} 

Pedicularis probuscidea? Longer grassland at all levels, but especially mid-levels: south of 

Markakol, southern Austrian Road and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Tall 

leafy lousewort with dense narrow yellow spike} 

[Pedicularis #2 Trackside scrub approaching Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {pale yellow 

lousewort with strongly-beaked flower, alternate leaves}] 

Rhinanthus songoricus Scrub margins and seasonally-wet grasslands at low-mid levels: Marble 

Pass and Bukhtarma valley. {a yellow-rattle} 

Verbascum phoeniceum Dry grassland and steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills, near Kamenka and west of 

Zaysan north ferry. {Purple Mullein}. 

Verbascum songoricum Steppe verges: Bukhtarma valley to Ust-Kamenogorsk. {a mullein} 

Verbascum thapsus Steppe grassland near Kamenka. {Common Mullein} 

Veronica beccabunga Streamsides and ruts at low levels: Markakol. {Brooklime} 

Veronica chamaedrys Flush edges at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {Bird’s-eye Speedwell} 

Veronica laeta Steppe west of Zaysan north ferry. {a pale spiked speedwell} 

Veronica longifolia Margin of Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley. {Garden Speedwell} 

Veronica multifida Dry grassland: near apiary campsite near Kamenka and Kalbinskiy Hills 

(white-flowered). {a speedwell} 

Veronica porphyriana Rocks by picnic spot on south Austrian Road. {a speedwell} 

Veronica serpyllifolia Moist turf by streams and in the mountains: at and above Markakol, and 

southern Austrian Road. {Thyme-leaved Speedwell} 

Veronica spicata Drier grassland at all levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, near Alekseyevka, Marble 

Pass, Cold Pass, and by Karakaba river. {Spiked Speedwell} 

Veronica teucrium Open woodland and grassland, mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinskiy pine 

woods, Markakol, and Cold Pass. {Large Speedwell}. 

[Veronica #1 Pathsides in Urunkhayka. {Very slender erect speedwell, with both 

lanceolate leaves and blue flowers minute}] 

[Veronica #2 Margins of snow-patches at high levels: Burkhat Pass. {short erect 

speedwell with crowded leaves and contracted purple spike}] 

Orobanchaceae 

Cistanche salsa Near slope top, Kiin Kerish. {royal purple and white broomrape}. 

Orobanche uralensis? Arid steppe at Kiin Kerish. {slender purple-tipped broomrape} 

Plantaginaceae 

Plantago lanceolata Roadsides, disturbed steppe: above Almaty. {Ribwort Plantain}. 

Plantago major Paths near habitation: Markakol. {Great Plantain} 

55

Plantago maritima Edge of spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert. {Sea Plantain}. 

Plantago media Dry grassland and steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills, near Kamenka and elsewhere 

in Bukhtarma valley. {Hoary Plantain}. 

Rubiaceae 

Galium boreale Lusher grassland and low scrub at all levels: Kalbinksiy Hills, Markakol, 

and Burkhat Pass. {Northern Bedstraw} 

Galium palustre Swamp woodland at Markakol (birch) and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. 

(spruce). {Marsh Bedstraw} 

Galium verum s.l. Drier grasslands at all levels, especially prominent in more steppic sites: 

Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, and Burkhat Pass. {Lady’s Bedstraw – 

probably mostly referable to G. pamiro-altaicum}. 

Caprifoliaceae 

Linnaea borealis Mossy ground in spruce forests etc: along entire length of Austrian Road 

and at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Twinflower} 

Lonicera hispida Low scrub and rocks at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, and 

Cold Pass. {“Bristly Honeysuckle”}. 

Lonicera microphylla Rocky slopes and crevices: north of Markakol, and southern Austrian 

Road. {a honeysuckle} 

Lonicera nummulariifolia Scrub at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak. {a shrub honeysuckle}. 

Lonicera tatarica Often dominant in low scrub at low-mid levels, sparingly higher: at and 

near Markakol. {a pink-flowered shrub honeysuckle} 

[Lonicera #1 Stony south-facing slopes: Marble Pass. {low glaucous shrub 

honeysuckle with orange berries}] 

[Lonicera #2 Low scrub at mid-high levels: around Markakol, Burkhat Pass and 

Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {low bush with pendulous lemon flowers}] 

Viburnum opulus Streamside scrub in the Kalbinskiy Hills. {Guelder-rose}. 

Adoxaceae 

Adoxa moschatellina Moist woodland and shady margins at low-mid levels: Markakol, Cold 

Pass, and southern Austrian Road. {Moschatel} 

Valerianaceae 

Patrinia intermedia Dry grassland: Marble Pass, south-facing hills north of Markakol and 

west of Zaysan north ferry. {no common name}. 

Patrinia sibirica Rocky outcrops in high-levels grassland on the Burkhat Pass. {no 

common name} 

Valeriana officinalis s.l. Grasslands (usually moist) at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, Marble Pass, 

Cold Pass and north of Markakol. {Common Valerian - probably mostly 

referable to V. collina}. 

Campanulaceae 

Campanula altaica Grasslands and low scrub at low-mid levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, Cold Pass 

and elsewhere around Markakol, and southern Austrian Road. {a 

bellflower, close to C. patula (Spreading Bellflower) - Kalbinskiy 

populations appear especially close}. 

Campanula glomerata Grasslands at low-mid altitudes: Cim Bulak, Marble Pass, and Austrian 

Road in Bukhtarma valley. {Clustered Bellflower}. 

Campanula latifolia? Woodland margins at low levels above Almaty. {Giant Bellflower}. 

Campanula sibirica Drier grassland and scrub: Kalbinskiy Hills, Marble Pass, margins of wet 

grassland in Bukhtarma valley and near Uryl. {a bellflower}. 

56

Codonopsis klematidea Woodland margins: above Almaty. {no common name}. 

Asteraceae 

Achillea millefolium Roadsides and all but the driest grassland: above Almaty; Kalbinskiy 

Hills, and north of Markakol. {Yarrow}. 

Achillea ledebourii? Grassland at mid-upper levels: Cold Pass. {pectinate toothed 

sneezewort} 

Alfredia cernua Lush meadows: around and above Markakol, and southern Austrian 

Road. {no common name} 

Antennaria dioica Shorter drier grassland, mainly at mid-high levels, occasionally in open 

forest: Kalbinskiy Hills, Cold Pass, southern Austrian Road, Burkhat 

Pass, and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Mountain Everlasting} 

Arctium tomentosum Forest margins and other coarser vegetation: Markakol, and near Berel. 

{a burdock} 

Artemisia absinthium Roadsides and rough grassland at low-mid levels: Cim Bulak, and north 

of Markakol. {Wormwood}. 

Artemisia dracunculus Margins of Austrian Road in Bukhtarma valley. {Tarragon} 

[Artemisia spp. Dominant or co-dominant in drier steppe and semi-desert: Kalbinskiy 

Hills, and Zaysan Depression. {No attempt has been made to distinguish 

these, though from a casual examination of leaf morphology, 

indumentum and aroma, at least five species are common in this habitat, 

including some resembling A. campestris and others very grey and 

scented}]. 

Aster alpinus Rocky grassland at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak, Kalbinskiy Hills, Cold 

Pass, and southern Austrian Road. {Alpine Aster}. 

Aster altaicus Drier grassland and steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills, Bukhtarma valley and 

Zaysan north ferry. {an aster}. 

Cacalia hastata Riverside willow scrub by access track to Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {no 

common name}. 

Carduus nutans? Rough grassland and steppe: Kalbinskiy Hills. {Musk Thistle – subsp. 

songoricus}. 

Centaurea squarrosa Steppic grassland: by spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert and in 

eastern Kalbinskiy Hills. {a knapweed}. 

[Centaurea #1 South-facing grassland on hill north of Markakol. {C. adpressa? – a 

lovely plant, leaves like Knautia but erect and appressed silvery, mostly 

basal, stem prostrate/procumbent with erect head – brown bracts, white 

fimbriate, flowers pale pink, white in centre – rayed}]. 

Cicerbita azurea Margins of scrub at mid levels: Cim Bulak and by Austrian Road in 

Bukhtarma valley. {an alpine sow-thistle}. 

Cichorium intybus Roadsides and fallow land: above Almaty, Ust-Kamenogorsk and from 

Bukhtarma valley to Zaysan lake. {Chicory}. 

Doronicum altaicum Spruce forest and high-level grassland at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {a 

leopard’s-bane} 

Doronicum turkestanorum Scrubby grassland at mid-levels in Cim Bulak. {a leopard’s-bane}. 

Echinops nanus? Rough steppe in the Kalbinskiy Hills. {a globe-thistle with heads 1cm 

diameter and the plant 50cm tall). 

Erigeron auranteus Rocky grassland at higher levels in Cim Bulak. {an orange fleabane} 

[Erigeron #1 Rocky dry grassland on the Cold and Burkhat Passes. {white one– 

headed fleabane – probably either E. altaicum or E. krylovii}] 

[Erigeron #2 Rocky river bank of Karakaba. {similar to latter but rose-pink} 

Galinsoga quadriradiata Weed in Panfilov Park, Almaty. {Shaggy-soldier} 

Gnaphalium norvegicum? Mossy spruce forest at Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Highland Cudweed} 

57

Gnaphalium sylvaticum Drier pathside in willow scrub at south end of Austrian Road, and 

grounds of Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Heath Cudweed} 

Hypochoeris maculata Dry south-facing grassland: sites north of Markakol and Rakhmanovskie 

Klyuchi. {Spotted Cat’s-ear} 

Lactuca undulata? Rough grassland: north of Markakol, Sn. Austrian Road . {a lettuce} 

Leontopodium fedtschenkoanum Rocky turf at high levels in Cim Bulak. {an edelweiss}. 

Ligularia alpigena Moist grassland at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {no common name}. 

Ligularia heterophylla Woodland margins above Almaty. (no common name} 

Ligularia macrophylla? Upland and mountain meadows, especially where slopes are moist: 

Kalbinskiy pine-woods, and north of Markakol. {no common name} 

Onopordum leptolepis Roadsides in steppe from Bukhtarma valley to Zaysan lake. {a cotton 

thistle} 

Pilosella cymosa? Grasslands at mid-levels: Cim Bulak. {a mouse-ear hawkweed}. 

[Pulicaria sp. Rough grassland at Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Resembles a larger-headed, 

more slender P. dysenterica}]. 

Rhaponticum carthamoides Lush grassland mainly at mid-levels: nearing Cold Pass, south of 

Markakol and Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Large knapweed-like herb with 

big heads} 

[Scorzonera spp. a) Spring-fed saltmarsh in Zaysan semi-desert; b) grassy slopes at treeline 

on Burkhat Pass; c) Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi; and d) tall leafy plant 

in steppe west of Zaysan north ferry. {Viper’s-grasses – one species at a) 

and d), a second at b) and c)?}] 

Senecio jacobaea Disturbed steppe west of Zaysan north ferry. {Common Ragwort – 

naturalised?}. 

Senecio praticola? Drier grassland mainly at mid-levels: Kalbinksiy Hills, near Cold Pass, 

and north of Markakol. {a ragwort with narrow-lanceolate toothed 

leaves, and a subumbellate cluster of yellow heads with rays swept back 

at maturity}. 

Senecio vulgaris Weed in Panfilov Park, Almaty. {Common Groundsel} 

Serratula latifolia? Lush grassland at foot of south-facing hills north of Markakol. {a sawwort} 

Solidago virgaurea Grassland at medium levels: Rakhmanovskie Klyuchi. {Goldenrod} 

Tanacetum santolina? Drier grasslands, mainly at lower levels: Kalbinskiy Hills, and north of 

Markakol. {Small neat silvery-grey tansy with few button heads}. 

Tanacetum tanacetoides? Dry grassland: Marble Pass. {Large feather-leaved tansy, with many 

button heads}. 

Taraxacum spp. Grasslands, especially prominent at mid-high levels: Cim Bulak and 

Markakol. {Dandelions}. 

Tragopogon pratensis Roadsides and drier grasslands at low-mid levels: Ust-Kamenogorsk and 

Markakol. {Goat’s-beard – subsp. orientalis}. 

[Tragopogon #1 Steppic grassland north of Markakol. {Goat’s-beard – possibly T. dubius 

or T. dubianskyi} 

Tussilago farfara Flushes and damp roadsides at all altitudes: Cim Bulak. {Colt’s-foot}. 

Xanthium strumarium Disturbed and damp ground: Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Common Cocklebur}. 

[Unknown composite #1 Margins of northern part of Austrian Road. {Like spiked mayweed with 

pendulous rayless flowers}] 

[Unknown thistles Sandy semi-desert between Zaysan lake and Ust-Kamenogorsk. {Two 

plants seen, one resembling Carduus argentatus, the other looking like a 

tall Crupina with untoothed pinnae, silver below} 

58

Appendix: Species as yet not allocated to a family 

Species #1 Arid slopes of Kiin Kerish. {low shrub with linear leaves and widely 

branched fruiting stems, each fruit like a silvery marbled bladder}. 

Species #2 Stony ridges in wet grassland in Bukhtarma valley. {Erect herb, alternate 

leaves which are pinnatisect like an Artemisia, sepals joined at base, 5 

free pink petals – possibly Hololachne soongorica or maybe a Reaumuria 

sp.} 

59

The Altai Mountains - Greentours

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