As news from China and Hong Kong shines a light on government repression, rather than happy holidays, their near neighbour — tropical, tolerant Taiwan — feels like a breath of fresh liberal air.
In May this year, the island became the first Asian country to legalise same-sex marriage. The Pride festival that took place five months later in the capital, Taipei, was a riot of colours, one of the largest rainbow gatherings the continent had ever seen. New research that ranks countries in terms of gay rights found Taiwan to be the safest place in Asia for LGBTQ travel.
Visits from mainland China have dropped by about 60% compared with 2018. But smaller crowds can only spell good news for canny Brits. We’re already starting to take advantage: inbound figures from the UK are up 8% over the same period, and established operators such as Wendy Wu Tours and Value Added Travel have added Taiwan to their 2020 rosters.
So why should you go? Like Hong Kong, it feels easy yet exotic — and, especially in the capital, there’s a laid-back welcome. Gay visitors should aim for the bars in the rainbow district around Red House, particularly community favourites such as Café Dalida. If you time a visit to coincide with one of the regular circuit parties, you’re in for a big night: be prepared for plenty of techno.
Other highlights include a visit to the Shilin night market — the stinky tofu is far tastier than it sounds — or the Keelung Miaokou night market for xiaolongbao (soup dumplings). Getting around on the metro is easy, with the stops announced in English.
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Go beyond the city, too: the island is surprisingly verdant, particularly in the east. Top spots for hiking include the Taroko Gorge, for pretty waterfalls; and Yangmingshan National Park, for hot springs. Book a day trip at isango.com.
A 14-day Treasures of Taiwan tour starts at £3,290pp, including flights, transfers and all meals (wendywutours.co.uk)
Discover the best destinations for 2020 with our complete guide at thesundaytimes.co.uk/holidaysfor2020
