Myers originally described Aphyolebias peruensis as Pterolebias peruensis and as such well known by aquarists until the revision of the genus by W. Costa in 1998 that made it belong to this new genus. Aphyolebias peruensis is the type species of the genus. The superspecies components are: A. boticarioi, A. claudiae, A. manuensis, A. obliquus, A. rubrocaudatus, and A. wischmanni. Aphyolebias peruensis is only known from a few spots in northern Peru and is biogeographically replaced by Aphyolebias wischmanni in the south and Aphyolebias schleseri in the north. It was first discovered in an aquarium import by Paramount Aquarium, Fred Cochu, in 1954. Aphyolebias peruensis lives in small and isolated pools in the primary forest. Waters have low pH (acidity as low as 5.3 pH are common), and habitats bottom layer mostly covered with leaves and mulm. Pools are stagnant and not deep.

For some time, this species was, as far as I can remember between 1984 and 1992, not in the hobby until new exporters in Peru recognized a market also for these killifishes and started expeditions to re-discover them. Also, hobbyists searched the area they lived in and brought them into the hobby back again

Keeping and breeding are easy, but it takes some patience from the breeder. This because the eggs need a long incubation period of up to 4 months. To produce many eggs, the parents need to get live food only in a wide variety and mass. Like all fast-growing SAA's, they do not like dry food and rather die than get used to it. Sometimes they eat frozen foods also, but you should never skip the life food for them. They can be very productive, and the best set-up is one male and two or more females in a tank from 25 to 40 liters. Males are not too aggressive against the female, as you will see. Like all Aphyiolebias species, this species is found in primary forests and should be treated as Aphyolebias peruensis for breeding and maintenance. Aphyolebias eggs do not survive in very dry peat moss.

Storing the eggs is easy too but as said before... a matter of patience. It would be best if you boiled the peat before you use it in the breeding tank. I use deep containers with peat to avoid food enters the peat and later affects the eggs. This container will also keep the amount of peat as small as possible but the layer high enough to dive in completely. After spawning for two weeks, the peat is squeezed out and dried to a level of fresh tobacco. Storage is best at 25 Celsius in a dark place. After a few months, it is wise to look into the peat if eggs are still there and if any development is visible. Because eggs need a long incubation time, it is recommended to check the peat bi-monthly if it is still wet. If peat is put away very moist and warm (up to 30 C.), the eggs will hatch in an earlier stage. It is, however, also possible that the eggs disappear entirely by the building up of fungus.

Remarks :

Max. size 10.5 cm.
Dorsal 10.5,
Anal 18.0,
D/A 11.8,
LL scale count (average)33.5
Pre- dorsal length to % SL – 74.7 %
Depth to % SL – 19.4 %