Culture | Tales of the megacity

Can Tokyo’s charms be replicated elsewhere?

Outsiders once disparaged Japan’s capital. Now it has lessons to offer

2A8TN80 Omeido Yokocho. Shinjuku district, Tokyo, Japan, Asia
|TOKYO

The real Tokyo, as any denizen of the world’s most populous metropolis knows, is found in the smallest of spaces. Japan’s capital is not a city of grand arterial boulevards. Its lifeblood flows instead through tangles of narrow alleys, up the stairs of slim buildings and into tiny shops and cramped eateries.

Take Nonbei Yokocho, or Drunkard’s Alley, a charmingly defiant cluster of watering holes in the shadow of Shibuya railway station. The average size of the 38 establishments is just under five square metres, notes “Emergent Tokyo”, a new book by Jorge Almazán, an architect, and his colleagues at Keio University. They nominate Tokyo as a model of a liveable megacity and explore its workings—and in so doing show how perceptions of it have evolved.

This article appeared in the Culture section of the print edition under the headline "Tales of the megacity"

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