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2015, Coloration Technology
Samples removed from funeral figurines, dated the third to the second century BC (Hellenistic period) and found in Macedonia, Greece, are investigated using high-performance liquid chromatography. Two results are reported that provide new insights into ancient polychromy. Firstly, high-performance liquid chromatography results, in combination with historical information, indicate that insect species of cochineal, most probably Porphyrophora hamelii Brandt, was used in Hellenistic objects. Secondly, madder detected in the archaeological samples contains high amounts of purpurin (alizarin is either not detected or detected in trace). This relative composition, which is recorded using the hydrochloric acid method for dyestuff extraction, is consistent with that prepared from wild madder (Rubia peregrina L.), which is a common plant in the Mediterranean region.
Microsamples removed from funeral figurines, which were found in two Hellenistic (third to second centuries BC) and two Roman (first to second centuries AC) tombs in the centre of Thessaloniki, Greece, are investigated following a multi-analytical approach. Polarized light microscopy (PLM), X-ray fluorescence (XRF) spectroscopy, micro-Raman spectroscopy and high-performance liquid chromatography coupled with a diode array detector (HPLC–DAD) are employed to identify both inorganic and organic pigments. PLM is useful to reveal the combinations of the colourants, which are identified as follows. Red ochre, cinnabar, yellow ochre, Egyptian blue, carbon black, calcite, dolomite and quartz are identified using XRF and Raman spectroscopy. HPLC–DAD is used to identify the organic colourants, which are rarely detected in painted objects of the Hellenistic and Roman period. In particular, cochineal and madder are found in six samples extracted from Hellenistic figurines. This is the first study describing the unequivocal identification of cochineal in Hellenistic objects. Furthermore, madder is identified in one sample dated to the Roman period. Madder lakes detected in the samples contain high amounts of purpurin; alizarin is either not detected or detected in trace amounts.
This paper discusses colorants found in Tumulus MM, the tomb of King Midas or his father, at Gordion, the capital of the Phrygian kingdom. Chromophores, colorants, and auxiliaries are preserved largely independent of the textiles they once colored. The Tumulus MM textiles are now fragmentary due to the degradation processes that occurred inside the tomb chamber. For DHA 26 (Vienna, Austria, 2007), we discussed a group of golden-yellow fragments from Tumulus MM that appeared to be tabby cloth but were skeletal lattices of goethite, αFeOOH (yellow ochre), as identified by FTIR, with SEM/EDS, XRD with molybdenum Kα radiation, NIR, and Raman spectroscopy. The “dyeing” has been replicated using a patented method; originally it may have involved a controlled redox reaction, based on our preliminary experiments. Amidst the goethite lattices, some skeletal fragments were green, with near-black lines within the yarn spiral, identified as indigo by FTIR at the time. Other masses with colorati...
Samples from ecclesiastical textiles (epitaphioi) which date in the byzantine period (14th century) and belong to monasteries of Mount Athos, are investigated using High Performance Liquid Chromatography coupled to a Photodiode Array Detector (HPLC-PDA). Prior to HPLC analysis, the historic samples are treated following a two step method, which was recently devised for dyestuff extraction: samples are first treated with hot dimethyl sulfoxide (DMSO) followed by mild acid (trifluoroacetic acid, TFA) hydrolysis. For the first time the use of cochineal in a byzantine textile is reported herein. According to the HPLC semi-quantitative results the cochineal dye was originated probably from Porphyrophora polonica L. (Polish cochineal) insects. Weld (Reseda luteola L.) is identified in the historic samples by detecting aglycone and glycoside components of the yellow dye, thus demonstrating that compounds which are destroyed under harsh acidic conditions (glycosides) can be recovered by the suggested two step dyestuff extraction method. Finally, kermes (Kermes vermilio Planchon), indigoid dyes which can be either indigo (Indigofera tinctoria L. and others) or woad (Isatis tinctoria L.), and tannins are found in the samples.
2004 •
The materials used in the decoration of three painted astragaloi (knucklebones) from the Koroneia cave (Greece) were investigated by means of sequential application of non-destructive and destructive techniques: optical microscopy, environmental scanning electron microscopy coupled with X-ray microanalysis (ESEM–EDX), Fourier transform infrared spectroscopy (FTIR) with micro-attenuated total reflection (μ-ATR) technique, high performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) coupled with UV-fluorescence and gas chromatography–mass spectrometry (GC–MS) were used.The main results highlighted that the three astragaloi were prepared with a ground of ochre or iron clay and painted with a proteinaceous matter such as binder egg tempera. Both FTIR and GC–MS agree in the detection of lipids that can be related to egg. Organic dyestuffs identified as madder lake and shellfish purple were used together with inorganic pigments.
Ballard, M., A. Newsome, E. Simpson, and B. Burke. “Ancient Chromophores and Auxiliaries: Phrygian Colorants from Tumulus MM at Gordion, Turkey, ca. 740 BCE.” Dyes in History and Archaeology 41. Heritage 6, no. 2 (2023): 2220-2246. https://www.mdpi.com/2571-9408/6/2/118
e-Preservation Science (e-PS), 2013, 10, 90-98
Κόμαρι: SOME HYPOTHESES ON AN ENIGMATIC DYESTUFF DESCRIBED IN CERTAIN RECIPES OF GREEK ALCHEMICAL PAPYRI2013 •
Abstract In his paper Teinture et Alchimie dans l’Orient Hellénistique (1935), Pfister wrote about κόμαρι, an enigmatic matter that Berthelot transcribed as Arbutus sp. and Lagercrantz associated to Comarus palustre L. In some recipes, the dissolution of κόμαρι is prescribed to obtain a vegetable purple dye described in the Leyden Papyrus X and the Papyrus Graecus Holmiensis as well as in another alchemy recipe, used for dyeing of fabrics, present in Genève 122 Papyrus. We can trace its use in later periods in Syrian alchemy recipes handed down from Antiquity to the Middle Ages. By studying classical sources to obtain knowledge regarding the chemical composition of substances, and by experimentation with recipes, we demonstrate that this enigmatic substance corresponds to the strawberry tree, Arbutus unedo L., its leaves or its bark, as postulated by Berthelot. We discard the hypothesis of association with Comarus palustre L. since it is endemic of the Northern European countries and possibly unknown by the craftsmen who made use of these recipes in 3rd-4th century A.D. Egypt.
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