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The Barranco del Infierno, Adeje, in summer

'Sea Rosemary' - Romero marino (Campylanthus salsoloides) was still in flower in July - it flowers over a very long period

‘Sea Rosemary’ – Romero marino (Campylanthus salsoloides) was still in flower in July – it flowers over a very long period

The view to Adeje from the first part of the walk

The view to Adeje from the first part of the walk

I have not visited the Barranco del Infierno for several years because much of that time it has been closed to the public, but it is now open again. The paths have been considerably improved, although they are still rough in places and do need good suitable shoes or boots. Numbers are now limited to 300 people per day and this makes it much more comfortable to walk. This means you need to book your visit in advance, which is easy on the website. I was able to book in July the day before, but I suspect at busy times of year it will be necessary to book much further in advance. The website is: http://www.barrancodelinfierno.es/en/

Mignonette - a local endemic species of it - (Reseda scoria)

Mignonette – a local endemic species of it – (Reseda scoparia)

Maple-leaved Lavatera (Lavatera acerifolia)

Maple-leaved Lavatera (Lavatera acerifolia)

July is not the best time of year to visit the Barranco because much of the vegetation is shutting down for the summer, losing leaves, and so on. In fact I was not expecting to see many flowers at all, or to see much water in the waterfall and stream, but in both cases I was pleasantly surprised. So it was still an enjoyable and interesting experience. We did make a fairly early start, though, at 9.30 and finished our visit when Adeje’s church clock was striking 12.00. It was already getting quite hot in the sun in the barranco, so we were pleased to finish early.

 

Tolpis crassiscula - a very local endemic - was in flower up the cliffs in lots of places

Little Teno Lettuce – Lechugilla de Teno -(Tolpis crassiscula) – a very local endemic – was in flower up the cliffs in lots of places

Flowing stream and pool - a rare sight in south Tenerife

Flowing stream and pool – a rare sight in south Tenerife

The Barranco is an amazing landscape. It starts at the top of Calle Molinos, a very steep street right at the top edge of the old town of Adeje. There is an entrance office where you buy or show your tickets, and an area where a briefing is given about the rules of entry, and where helmets are provided for visitors to wear. After that you make your way into the Barranco along the well-defined path, which you are not allowed to leave. The path is both the way in and the return route, so as the day goes on returning visitors meet incoming visitors, and in places the path is so narrow, that one or other has to give way. The fact that entering visitors are in time batches, and the total numbers are limited, means this is not such a problem as it would be with uncontrolled numbers.

Part of the waterfall at the end of the walk - it is so high it's difficult to photograph all of it.

Part of the waterfall at the end of the walk – it is so high it’s difficult to photograph all of it.

A view on the way out of the narrow gorge part of the Barranco

A view on the way out of the narrow gorge part of the Barranco

At the start of the path the barranco is wide and there is view across it to the flat-topped Roque del Conde. As you walk further into the barranco it narrows, until it becomes a very narrow gorge, and finally ends with a 200m sheer cliff down which the water falls, down into a small pool which then flows out into a stream with various rock worn pools on the way. In the first, open, part of the barranco has an ecosystem dominated by Euphorbias, like most of the coastal areas. The middle part contains a thermophile ecosystem with a greater variety of plants, many of them requiring a moister atmosphere than the first part. In this part are examples of typical plants such as the Almaciga (Pistacia atlantica) ,Tree Bindweed – Guaydil (Convolvulus floridus), Maple-leaved Lavatera (Lavatera acerifolia) and Ceballosia (Ceballosia fruticosa). All of these, except a few Lavatera, had already flowered and so I was unable to get pictures. The other abundant plants that were in flower in this area were the Balo (Plocama pendula) and the Mataprieta (Justicia hyssopifolia) both of which are Canary endemics.

A fine specimen of the rare local endemic 'Cliff cabbage' - Col de risk - (Crambe scaberrima)

A fine specimen of the rare local endemic ‘Cliff cabbage’ – Col de risk – (Crambe scaberrima)

Returning through the wider part of the Barranco

Returning through the wider part of the Barranco

The remaining part, the gorge, contains little on the ground between the sheer walls apart from the stream, the path, various Canary Willow trees (Salix canariensis) and Sweet Chestnut trees (Castanea sativa), and brambles. The only really interesting plants were water plants and the local endemic plant, Lechugilla del Teno (where it also grows) (Tolpis crassiscula), which is listed in the Red Book as vulnerable. I was pleased to see a large number of these growing and flowering beside the path and up the cliffs.

Hyssop-leaved Justicia (Justicia hyssopifolia) flower

Hyssop-leaved Justicia (Justicia hyssopifolia) flower

A scenic and botanically interesting circular walk from Tamaimo, Santiago del Teide

Almond trees in bloom beside the path from Tamaimo to Arguayo

Almond trees in bloom beside the path from Tamaimo to Arguayo

I did this walk yesterday, 11th February, on our first sunny day for a while, so it was a real treat. Not only is it a very scenic route, but also exciting botanically with lots of rarities, especially in the latter half. It was however, quite a long and strenuous walk, and in one place a bit vertiginous, though you could end sooner to cut that bit out.

The path down to the tunnel under the new road is almost overgrown with Argyranthemums

The path down to the tunnel under the new road is almost overgrown with Argyranthemums

We started from Tamaimo, parking on the main road (TF-82) towards Chio, and taking a steep street up from that road, called Calle la Rosa. Continue along that street till it ends, where a footpath starts. This is a broad footpath that is easy to follow but is steep. If you start early in the day you get a bit of shade on the way up, which you may be glad of! I have never before walked this route at almond blossom time, and it was a delight.

The north-facing slopes of La Hoya were covered in Atlantic Islands buttercups (Ranunculus cortusifolius)

The north-facing slopes of La Hoya were covered in Atlantic Islands buttercups (Ranunculus cortusifolius)

 

At the end of the first bit of the climb the path joins the end of a tarmac road. We walked along it about 30m and turned left onto another path, although it is a bit more overgrown. After a while the path is diverted to the left where it has been dissected by the new road. The new path made goes down some steps to a tunnel beneath the new road, but it is already overgrown by Marguerites (Argyranthemum sp) so it is difficult to see the steps. On the other side of the tunnel the path climbs up and eventually rejoins the old path to continue up to Arguayo, coming out on the bypass, which we crossed and went up to the road through the village where we turned left.

Marguerite (Argyranthemum foeniculaceum), a Tenerife endemic

Marguerite (Argyranthemum foeniculaceum), a Tenerife endemic

 

 

We passed the pottery museum on our left (worth a quick visit if you are interested) and shortly after turned left, past the statues of two potters, crossed back over the bypass to go up a concrete road opposite. Just a few yards up this we took a left fork to go onto a level footpath (at first!) around the mountain called La Hoya. The path overlooks the entrances to the tunnels for the new road which goes beneath this mountain, then it takes a sharp right turn to go around the north side of La Hoya. This stretch of path is delightful for its views of the Santiago Valley and across to the Teno mountains, and for the rich variety of flowers along it. At this time of year we saw lots of Atlantic island buttercups (Ranunculus cortusifolius) growing in drifts up the side of the mountain. There were also lots of the local species of Marguerites (Argyranthemum foeniculaceum), a Tenerife endemic, with filiform bluish leaves and large flower heads. In addition the Purple Spurge (Euphorbia atropurpurea), a Tenerife endemic, was in flower as was Yellow Carrot (Todaroa aurea) a carrot-like umbellifera which is a Canary endemic.

Canary sage (Salvia canariensis) surrounded by Canary Lavender (Lavandula canariensis) both Canary endemics

Canary sage (Salvia canariensis) surrounded by Canary Lavender (Lavandula canariensis) both Canary endemics

When we got down the slope of the mountain we were very near the new road, where a track crosses on a bridge, but we had to cross the track to continue beside the road until we reached a tunnel beneath it for the path. Shortly after emerging from the tunnel and climbing the ramp the other side, we reached a fork in the path where we turned left to El Molledo. We crossed the road went down into the village past the church and the square and straight on into a narrow street going downhill, then right with another street till we reached the streambed of the barranco which the path crosses. Coming out of the barranco we passed a turning left (a footpath going down the side of the valley), but when we reached the next junction, by a huge volcanic dyke (intrusion of molten magma into existing rock), we took the left fork.

Walking towards the old goat farm on the north side of the Santiago valley

Walking towards the old goat farm on the north side of the Santiago valley

Now we were walking along a contour on the north side of the Santiago valley in open country with fine views. We passed drifts of Canary Lavender (Lavandula canariensis) interspersed with Canary sage (Salvia canariensis), and then a gentle up slope took us to the top of the ridge, where the path followed a dyke forming the ridge. We were now looking down into the next valley, Barranco Mancha de la Diaz, on our right. On the top of the dyke on the left are tight clumps of Little Houseleek (Aeonium sedifolium), which later in spring will be covered in yellow flowers.

Yellow carrot (Todaroa aurea), a Canary endemic

Yellow carrot (Todaroa aurea), a Canary endemic

 

 

 

Arriving at a junction with a signpost we reached a decision point. Some of our group decided to descend the path to the left to return to Tamaimo, our starting point. In fact this had been my intention for all the group. However, we had made such good time, others thought the walk too short, and wanted to continue on the ridge, which we did. After a while on a very well defined path, we reached a fork and took the left path. This was a much smaller path, though still easy to follow. It did however, have some narrow points with drops on the right, and occasions where we had to climb up rocks, but all within our capability (we are not rock climbers!!).

A view of the path alongside Barranco Seco

A view of the path alongside Barranco Mancha de las Diaz

This path was very interesting as far as botany was concerned. On the cliffs we passed under there were Cineraria (Pericallis echinata), a Tenerife endemic, more Atlantic Islands Buttercups, Tenerife Sea-Kale (Crambe scaberrima), and Teno sow-thistle (Sonchus fauces-orci), both the latter being Tenerife endemics. That is just to mention the plants that were flowering. Later in the spring the Retama (Retama raetam) and the Tree bindweed (Convolvulus floridus) would be in flower, among other things.

 

Tenerife Sea-Kale (Crambe scaberrima), a Tenerife endemic

Tenerife Sea-Kale (Crambe scaberrima), a Tenerife endemic

 

After walking along roughly level, or going slightly downhill, with the ridge getting higher above us, we finally followed the path up a slope and found ourselves on the top, with lovely views to Los Gigantes. We then went left across the ridge, which was quite wide and flat, until we got to a T-junction with a yellow and white waymarked path on the far side of the ridge. There we went right and the path immediately began a long steep descent. However, there was botanical interest here too, with a mixture of Neochamaelea pulverulenta shrubs and smaller Parolinia intermedia shrubs, both in flower. Both are grey leaved, and Canary endemics, with the Parolinia confined to Tenerife. They do not have English names, so I am not going to invent them! Neither of these are threatened species, they tend to be locally abundant where they grow, but in relatively few sites, especially the latter, so I do not often see them.

Teno sow-thistle (Sonchus fauces-orci) on the cliff above the path in Barranco Seco

Teno sow-thistle (Sonchus fauces-orci) on the cliff above the path in Barranco Mancha de las Diaz

View to Roque Blanco from the path in Barranco Seco

View to Roque Blanco from the path in Barranco Seco

 

 

 

 

 

 

Also on the descent were lots of Kickxia scoparia in flower, with yellow flowers with spurs at their base. This too is a Canary endemic. Unfortunately they are hard to photograph with my little compact as they are so insubstantial. There were also plentiful Tenerife Lavender (Lavender buchii), a Tenerife endemic found mainly in Teno.  Another Canary endemic plant that was abundant in this area, but unfortunately not in flower, was Justicia hyssopifolia.

Parolinia intermedia, a Tenerife endemic

Parolinia intermedia, a Tenerife endemic

Neochamaelea pulverulenta, a Canary endemic

Neochamaelea pulverulenta, a Canary endemic

 

 

 

 

 

As we descended we had great views, particularly of the Santiago valley, which we eventually reached, and turned left uphill on the footpath back to Tamaimo.

Kickxia scoparia, another Canary endemic

Kickxia scoparia, another Canary endemic

Justicia hyssopifolia, another Canary endemic but not in flower

Justicia hyssopifolia, another Canary endemic but not in flower

 

 

 

 

The walk took 5 hours and 20 minutes, was 12.44 km long and involved 675m of climbing. A GPS track of the walk can be viewed and downloaded from the following link:

http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/view.do?id=8885597

Tenerife Lavender (Lavandula buchii) with its grey leaves

Tenerife Lavender (Lavandula buchii) with its grey leaves

Views of the Santiago valley as we descended

Views of the Santiago valley as we descended

An exciting new walk in the reserve of the Barranco del Infierno near Ifonche, Tenerife

I did this walk last Saturday, 30th May, and was so excited by this newly rehabilitated path, I had to share it. The path goes beneath cliffs on the edge of the special reserve of the Barranco del Infierno, Adeje. It passes through a very scenic landscape, rich in botanical variety, and cultural interest, and in addition has some great views down to the coast.

Canary foxglove (Isoplexis canariensis) in flower beneath the first cliff

Canary foxglove (Isoplexis canariensis) in flower beneath the first cliff

 

The white post in the track after passing the threshing circle. Continue down the track

 

The first part of the walk I have known about for some time and always enjoy its botanical richness, but the second part, beneath a range of cliffs in a semi circle, was a complete revelation. I found the route on Wikiloc and thought it sounded worth exploring, and it certainly was.

 

The route starts at the Bar El Dornajo at the end of the village of Ifonche.  I actually parked just beyond the bar where there is space for a few cars, and started out on the path by the signboard on the bend, continuing till the path was crossed by a track, and turning left there.

Shrubby burnet (Bencomia caudata) growing beneath the first cliff

Shrubby burnet (Bencomia caudata) growing beneath the first cliff

The path beneath the first cliff.

The path beneath the first cliff.The route started at the Bar El Dornajo at the end of the village of Ifonche.

The track passes a finca perched on the edge of the spectacular Barranco de las Fuentes, and just beyond it is a threshing floor where you can enjoy the view into the barranco. Continue on the track beyond this, passing a white pillar,  and keeping on the track for about 100 m till you see a small green and white sign on the right with ‘Parque natural especial’ on it.  At this point the track forks into two paths.  The left one, and most obvious, goes slightly uphill to a viewpoint.  The right one, which you take, is less obvious because it immediately heads downwards.  This is a path I know and love, going down the side of the barranco and passing beneath an impressive cliff. The area is very rich botanically and I have always enjoyed it, even though the path is a bit rough.

After a while the path comes out on an open col between two rocky crags, the soil is bare and a pale pinkish cream and composed of pumice. Here there is a junction. The path that goes straight on goes to Adeje, but it is very rough, and has some narrow places which would upset anyone troubled by vertigo. Up to now that was the only path I knew from this place, but now the newly cleared path goes left here.

The cairn at the start of the newly cleared path

The cairn at the start of the newly cleared path

Very soon after beginning the new path, a diversion to the left leads up to a cave known as the Cave of the Donkey. A short climb up allows one to see the shallow cave, and then I returned to the path.

The path beneath the cliffs

The path beneath the cliffs

Not much further on is a more substantial cave called La Cueva de la Estancia (The cave of the Stay/Farm) which would seem to indicating it was used as a dwelling. This was the childhood home of a large family – 11 children I think- with 2 0r 3 of them still surviving, in their 80s, in 2014.

 

 

Part of La Cueva de la Estancia

Part of La Cueva de la Estancia

Continuing, the path dips downhill towards a  a shady bend in the path with lots of plants, including a large Canary willow tree, and a profusion of shrubs. There is a lot of bracken in the dip at the bend, which obscures the path a bit as some steps take you up again. High above the path here, an old water channel passes and along that are lots of Shrubby Plantains (Plantago arborescens) a macronesian endemic which, although it is common in North Tenerife, isn’t found in many places in the south and west of Tenerife. Soon the path passes two more caves, La Cueva de Regocijo (The cave of rejoicing), which enjoys a great view to the coast, and La Cueva Negra (The black cave), a small cave with a trickle of water coming out of the cliff nearby. Then the path reaches La Fuente el Chorrillo, a spring the like of which I have not seen before in Tenerife as it was not just dribbling water, but a steady small stream of water was trickling out of the base of the basalt cliff.

The view from La Cueva del Regocijo

The view from La Cueva del Regocijo

Around the spring there are water-loving plants including Mint (Mentha longifolia) Mentha longifolia) and where the water flows into a trough, watercress grows.

Long-leaved mint (Mentha longifolia) growing in a damp crevice on the cliff above the spring

Long-leaved mint (Mentha longifolia) growing in a damp crevice on the cliff above the spring

The water then trickles down a channel into a tank, and on down the hill.

 

 

 

 

Continuous trickles of water out of the cliff at La Fuente el Chorrillo

Continuous trickles of water out of the cliff at La Fuente el Chorrillo

Continuing along the path the next cave is called La Cueva de las Goteras (The dripping cave). It had some damp places on the ceiling with maidenhair ferns growing. In the front of the cave were some Canary bellflower plants (Canarina canariensis), another plant that is not very frequent in the south of Tenerife. They flower early in the spring around Feb-Mar.

Shortly after this cave the path goes through a shady patch with several large shrubs with leathery pale green leaves.  These are Moralitos (Rhombus integrifolius), a Tenerife endemic I am particularly fond of as there was one near my previous home in Acojeja, and it took me 2 years to finally identify it!

 

 

After the valley with the Moralitos the path climbs steeply to go around the end of the cliff, and join a track which finally joins a minor tarmac road.

 

The signpost where the path joined the minor tarmac road

The signpost where the path joined the minor tarmac road

Although the part of the walk which was most special for me was over, there was more to see.  I turned right and followed the tarmac road to the end, then joining the red/white way marked path GR131, till I reached a large threshing floor in another col.  This was a part of the walk I knew, and I went left with the wooden signposts (leaving the GR131) to cross the Barranco del Rey. This is a crossing I am familiar with, but recently a path has been cleared and signposted to the Fuente las Pilas down the barranco from the crossing. It is only a few hundred metres down, but I never suspected that it was there.

The signpost to the Fuente Las Pilas in the Barranco del Rey

The signpost to the Fuente Las Pilas in the Barranco del Rey, with the basalt cliff from the base of which the spring comes

 

The spring was a delightful sight with a substantial trickle of water emerging from the base of the basalt cliff. The path makers had planted a little garden around the spring.  It is a beautiful and tranquil spot.

La Fuente las Pilas with maidenhair ferns and watercress enjoying the damp conditions

La Fuente las Pilas with maidenhair ferns and watercress enjoying the damp conditions

This was the end of the newly renovated path and I made my way back to Bar El Dornajo by a short route I knew, though it is not the best path.

 

La Piedra de descanso (The Resting stone) near La Fuente las Pilas (The Spring of Basins, or Stacks)

La Piedra de descanso (The Resting stone) near La Fuente las Pilas (The Spring of Basins, or Stacks)

The walk I did was less than 9km and took 3.5 hours, with a couple of diversions.  It was not particularly strenuous, with little ups and downs adding up to around 350m. It is highly recommended to those interested in plants, especially in the spring, as it is rich in variety. However, it is not a route for those who have trouble with vertigo as there are frequently steep slopes to one side.

Edited 27th February, 2016

I recently did this walk again, but added a short bit at the beginning to lengthen it.  The link below gives this initial extension as well as a pleasant path back to the beginning without walking much on tarmac.

http://www.wikiloc.com/wikiloc/spatialArtifacts.do?event=setCurrentSpatialArtifact&id=12401150

This is a description of the return route from the Fuente de las Pilas

From the Fuente de las Pilas, walk back along the barranco and on the path to the signpost still at the bottom of the barranco, where there is a junction with the path you arrived on.  Join this path, going up the opposite side of the barranco.   At the top there is a building near a threshing floor and beyond that there is a well worn track used to access the Refugio as well as other houses in that area.  Do not go as far as this track, just before you get to that track another track goes left, running parallel to it just off the top of the ridge.  Walk along this track for about 200 yards until you see a small path going gently down the side of the barranco to the left. Follow this path down to the streambed and when you arrive at it look ahead directly in the line that you descended and you will see, a few yards down the barranco, a path sloping up in the same direction.  At the top it turns left and then right and then becomes a track, passes a few farms and houses, before joining a minor country road and arriving back at the crossroads by the Bar El Dornajo.

Edited again 19th July, 2017

This walk is still a great delight, for its biodiversity and views.  I have taken out the references to large white paint arrows as these have now all but disappeared, and edited the description of the approach to the path.  Below is a picture of the start of the downward path next to the Reserva Natural Especial sign:

The green and white protected area sign by the start of the downward path