How Brno Cafes & Coffee Culture Shaped The City Now & Then

If now was the time to run away and live undercover somewhere for a few years to become a coffee connoisseur, now would be the time – and Brno would be precisely that place. The Brno cafes and their relaxed coffee culture have earned Brno the title of “Coffee Mecca of Europe”. Honestly, the coffee quality here is exquisite!

Back in September, I learnt everything that there is about the long history of Brno and coffee which is deeply entwined with the Czech societal culture and reflected in the city structure. Not only have I compiled all my research for you, but I have also experienced modern cafés and will share with you where you can drink the best coffee in Brno. 

Ok, now that we have the intro out of the way, let’s dive in!

Did You Know? Pronounced “burn-oh” instead of Brno. 

Short History of Brno Cafes

The Brno coffee culture developed alongside the Viennese coffee houses in the 18th century and shares some similar origins. As Brno was part of the Habsburg Monarchy, it was heavily influenced by Austrian culture. Many coffee houses put a mark on the daily lives of Brno’s people but also impacted city layouts & architecture. After the collapse of the Habsburg Empire during WWI, Czech culture took over and steered Brno’s coffee culture in a more functional direction. There are only a handful of traditional coffee houses left today in Brno as most establishments got lost during WWII. 

Brno’s Coffee Culture Before WWI

The origins date back to approximately 1702/1704 and started with a foreigner introducing coffee to Brno. Turk Ahmed brought coffee to the city and opened the first coffee house. From here the number of coffee houses grew rapidly: 1717 (3), 1719 (6) and 1900 (37). There were also a few Italian-run coffee establishments which were extremely successful and in high demand. 

The cafés in Brno tended predominately to intellectuals. They were places to network and care for intellectual interests. Therefore the Brno cafes held an educational and institutional function. In the course of their history, students, dramaturgists or politicians would all have their preferred coffee house.  

Another incentive to visit the coffee house was to gather news about the world. Newspapers were the mass medium of that time and often the only source of information. They were rather expensive too. Having them as a freebie in a café was a huge pull for people. 

The cafés were seen as an enrichment for the entire city. Not only did they bring education and news, but the main clientele, the educated bourgeois, put their mark indirectly on the cityscape. These affluent people resided predominantly in the centre. Partly, because short distances meant short walks, and partly because the centre is the most prestigious part of a town. 

It is thanks to the bourgeoisie that most of the historical buildings and urban structures developed there first: boulevards, ring roads, parks and promenades with listed buildings, all of which were built in the second half of the 19th century. The coffee culture even influenced the interior design in the style of historicism, which prevailed over art nouveau. The simplicity of historicism influenced the layout of Brno and gave the city a unique character.

The coffee houses before WWI were always found in the most important streets, along “corso” main roads and squares. Most of the squares were laid out in a star shape, so that all important streets led directly to the coffee house. All the coffee culture gentrified parts of the city and attracted even more wealthy residents. The area around the St Jacob’s church saw a coffee house explosion and concentration of the most popular in town.

Today the only survivor of that layout style is the former Café Savoy, aka home to vegan fast food chain Forky’s. The building originally hosted another popular coffee house, the Thonethof, and was completely redesigned in the late 1920’s. Below, is Café Savoy before its radical refurbishment in 2008, followed by its modern look today – now Forky’s. Embraced are the spacious and grandness of the interior. The chandelier is a luxurious link to its prestigious past.

Brno’s Coffee Culture After WWI

By 1900, the city counted 37 coffee houses, of which only three were run by Czech. The imbalance of cultural representation would change dramatically with the collapse of the Habsburg Empire after WWI.

1918 was the key year and after the downfall, the Czech took over many parts of daily life. This time would also become the “golden era” of coffee houses in Brno, so with the change in societal culture, came a positive shift for the coffee culture. 

The biggest change was taking a radical functional direction. Cafés became generous and open-planned. It became standard to have a confectionery on the ground floor, and offer additional seating on the first and second levels. Up to 200 people could be seated now and experience the convivial atmosphere. This also meant that the cafés became less exclusive and aimed to appeal to a wider, less affluent audience.

Emanuel Toman, Brno’s most successful confectioner, owned several coffee houses in town and came up with the idea to integrate the cakes. Whilst in Viennese coffee culture, women were the driving force behind the introduction of sweet treats, Toman developed the concept of having a confectionery within the café complex. The cakes, sometimes own creations, were affordable and a delight in combination with the coffee. The model was successful because it was seen as a sophisticated enhancement, ultimately turning a coffee house into a tearoom. 

This was also a time of economic boom but also rising inner city costs. The problem was solved by owners topping up their buildings, so when you walked around Brno you’d see a renaissance or baroque house topped up with modern, functional levels. Again, the coffee house culture put its mark on the city’s development. 

Here are two café examples of functionalism, which you can still find in Brno today:

Café Zeman (Zemanova kavárna, today known as Pavilion – The Steak House), in the park today. In 1925, the big sliding panorama windows were celebrated as revolutionary as they allowed a relationship between the interior and outside. The building underwent several restructures over the years and demolition in 1964 to make room for the Janáček theatre; rebuilt in 1995 after original plans from Bohuslav Fuchs (modernist style architect). This former café now turned restaurant has no connection to the next one (I know the names can be confusing). 

Zemanova kavárna a cukrárna is the oldest remaining café in Brno, built in 1936 in Josefska 6, in functionalism style designed by architect Vitezslav Korn. This Brno café sells its own treat, the Koláče a Czech fruit-filled pastry. This café is an example for driving change: even though it is built in functional style in practice, it turned out to be less popular. Guests didn’t want to climb up the stairs and so coffee to go culture slowly developed in Brno.

After WWI and with the loss of Austrian culture, there was little time and appreciation in Soviet society for sitting around and exchanging great intellectual ideas. Writers, artists and politicians who would brood over life all day could become dangerous and generate “wrong ideas”. Something that had to be stopped as soon as possible.

Most coffee houses were then destroyed during WWII and many historical buildings got lost forever. For more information, I can highly recommend the photography collection “The lost world of Brno’s cafés” (German & Czech only). 

What Can We Learn From the Cafés in Brno?

From having researched, compared and reflected upon the Brno cafes and their coffee culture history, I can take away the following:

1. The homes of Brno cafes are not just cafés per se. Often these historical buildings share a cultural story reflected in their architecture and interior style.

2. Brno’s city structure was heavily influenced by the coffee houses and even though most of them no longer exist, Brno has preserved most of these structural layouts.

3. The change during the Soviet occupation transformed the culture tremendously. There was no longer time for lavish and extensive stays of sitting around and breeding ideas but a shift towards mass tearooms with the addition of cakes. Functionalism became the norm.

4. Another thought on this would be that the rather strict and straightforward cultural change was also adopted in the communication style. I haven’t found an academic source (yet) to back this up, but Mark Manson touches upon this in chapter 8 of The Subtle Art of Not Giving a F*ck. East Europeans tend to have a rather short and direct communication style, which can be perceived as blunt, whereas Westerners tend to package up their language in colourful ways.

Modern Cafés in Brno Today

• Five out of six finalists in the “Barista of the Year” competition came from Brno
• Denis Kramář (Rebelbean) competed in the 2022 World Barista Championship in Melbourne
• Quality of coffee is at the centre of businesses with many having their own roastery
• Cappuccinos cost between 50 KR to 90 KR tops (3.50€)
• Flat whites, espressos, batch brew & cappuccinos 
• Exceptional and very high quality of products for little price
• Brnoer tend to enjoy their cappuccinos more milky and creamy
• Beautiful cafés on every corner, it is not hard to find a good one
• Pick up the Gourmet booklet with restaurant & café recommendations from the Tourist Information
• Alternatively pick up the This is Coffee in Brno guide, also available at the Tourist Information

My Best Cafes in Brno Recommendations

The modern Brno cafes with their laidback vibe and top-class coffee quality have placed Brno into the high ranks of the coffee culture elite. Understandably that this is a massive pull for visitors and a huge tourism driver for the city.

It is my absolute pleasure to report back that Brno deserves rightfully the title of “Europe’s coffee mecca”. I have not had a single mediocre or poor coffee experience, in fact all my café visits were exceptional in their own unique way. Below are my recommendations on the best cafes in Brno. I have arranged the order according to the Three C’s of coffee culture: coffee, cake and conversations.

Café Monogram

Located in a little square opposite the Kapucinske Crypt, Monogram is voted continuously as one of the best cafes in Brno. Its owner Adam Neubauer has won the barista of the year award 3x. The small but cosy café with its wooden tables has a homey feel to it. There’s no WiFi but bathrooms are available.

Why I loved Café Monogram in Brno: My coffee is creamy and marries well with the milk. No acidity or juiciness is irritating the overall round flavour. The café is unfuzzy and I love the intimate setting. The light wooden features apply warmth, the home-made cakes seduce you and if you’re not seriously considering becoming a coffee connoisseur by now, you’re doing something wrong. 

Café Rebelbean

Furnished in an industrial style, Rebelbean is not only a hip place for meeting friends, but you can also use the space for working whilst enjoying top-quality coffee. They, too, are one of Brno’s leading coffee roasters. The nearest branch is a short walk from the train station tugged away in an inconspicuous side street which applies the often sought-out local touch. 

Why I loved Café Rebelbean in Brno: the coffee is more dominant than milk but not as overpowering as expected. The flavour profile is exceptional and rightly deserves the title of the best coffee in Brno. I also loved the unfuzzy atmosphere of the café and it would make for a great working space, too.  

Random Facts from a Coffee Tasting Session with Denis Kramář from Rebelbean:
– Dry aroma: swivel the cup and let the aroma develop intensity
– Hot water: wet aroma, 95°C water and only four minutes to test the aroma
– Evaluation criteria: origin, variety, process (where is it from and what’s the processing)
– Kenya: always very acidic and juicy, doesn’t go well with milk so not optimal for cappuccino, very intense flavours
– I prefer coffee from South America, as the beans and roast are less juicy (Africa) and the taste is dry with a dark chocolate note to it
– Blends: two coffees roasted separately and then blend
– Higher grades when it’s more fruity and acidic
– Coffee is a fruit – the beans take up moisture and can taste like paper when they get old and overstored. Old roasted coffee will have lost flavour and will taste stale
– Coffee is seasonal and has a pH value of 4.5

Kofi-Kofi Coffee Truck

Find Kofi-Kofi, a small takeaway cart, near the theatre. This Czech brand is the largest network of mobile coffees in the country. Born in Brno and operating since 2011, Kofi-Kofi operates now in various locations across town and other cities such as Pilsen and Prague. Their main mission is to share “coffee with a smile and make people’s day better”. I’ll be the judge of that!

Why I Loved Kofi-Kofi Coffee Truck in Brno: not a café per se, but this is also a post about the best coffee in Brno and Kofi-Kofi deserves a mention here. In typical Brno fashion, my cappuccino is on the milky side. By now I’m used to the creamy texture and enjoy the light taste. It’s like a warm hug and every sip makes me feel at ease with the world. My day is definitely made with this little delightful gem of a drink, so mission accomplished!

Café Momenta

Find Café Momenta at the lower end of the vegetable market. You’ll have found yourself an excellent spot for people-watching and overlooking the main action happening in town. The coffee is roasted and sourced from various coffee plants and the cakes are not to be missed either. Outdoor seating during the summer is an additional plus. The service is a bit slow, but who cares, we’re not in a rush, aren’t we? 

Why I loved Café Momenta in Brno: my cappuccino is more acidic than any other coffee I have had in Brno. However, it is just tolerable for my liking and the sweet cake helps to balance the taste. My white chocolate mousse cake comes with wild berries. It has a light texture and a great balance of the white chocolate sweetness and the fruitiness of the berries. Prices are very moderate, too. 

Let’s not forget about the cake. Good coffee culture also includes “cake”. Brno has its own version of the moss cake, a cake originating in Turkey (Ispanakli Kek) which then became widely popular in Eastern Europe (Lesny Mech). Key element is a striking green colour from using spinach. The Brno edition, the Mechovy Dort, was perfected by a local confectioner who took this unusual cake to a new level. Now, the moss cake channels a forest theme with dried crickets as decoration. YES, a dried cricket. This extra is purely for decorative purposes and to underline the “forest” theme of the cake. You can eat it if you dare to. Find the Mechovy Dort and other unique cake creations at Café Sorry We Bake Differently in Brno.

Yummy Lamy

Coffee culture also means cake, and you find some good ones right here. Yummy Lamy is conveniently next door to Café Rebelbean, so this is a win-win. This modern café focuses on the trend of freak shakes, sweet waffles and doughnuts. All of their products are over-the-top crazy, fun but “oh-so instagrammable”. The Llama concept is happy, creating a cheerful environment between dream and reality; sort of a little escape from reality for a while and of course to satisfy your inner child. The prices are very moderate, too, e.g. doughnut 72KR, croffin 75KR approx. 3€

Why I loved Yummy Lamy Café in Brno: honestly, how could you not love this place? It is colourful, without being tacky. It is fun, without being silly. This Brno café has the right level of playfulness wrapped in an unusual concept. The products are attractive to look at, creative and quirky. It is hard to choose one so before you know it there are two, no maybe three, doughnuts and croffins on your plate – especially the croffins are a top recommendation for you. They are extra fluffy and light as they are made from yeast dough and therefore not a heavy treat at all. 

Café Podnik

Podnik sits on a side street just on top of the vegetable market. It is another café in Brno that oozes warmth and a welcoming atmosphere. Unlike Rebelbean or Skøg it is not a typical workspace. Its cosiness vibes are more like a brunch and friends meeting place. 

Why I loved Café Podnik in Brno: for breakfast I decided on their sweet pancakes. At 200KR/ 8.50€ these were a great deal and my portion was plentiful. My plate came loaded with four fluffy pancakes, topped with creamy mascarpone, a sweet crumble and caramelised pears. Not only did it look amazing, but it also tasted just as good. It was extremely filling and I couldn’t finish it. Defo a first for me. No complaints about my cappuccino either. In typical Brno fashion, my coffee was more on the creamy and milky side. 

Café Skøg

Skøg café plays with a Scandi reference (Norwegian “Skog” for “forest”) and comes in a typical Northern style. Think urban minimalist design, wooden flooring and plants. No wonder it attracts the millennials, entrepreneurs and brunch-loving crowds alike who comfortably enjoy the vegan and vegetarian menu. Prague-based Rusty Nails Coffee Roasters provide the coffee. Later in the day, Skøg turns into a bar so you can make this your base all day long. 

Why I loved Café Skøg in Brno: I opted for the sour cherry granola bowl, which was a filling breakfast. The fruity part was slightly dominant and I had to mix it well with the rest of the ingredients to make this a balanced flavour profile. My coffee was strong and slightly acidic but acceptable, as I needed a good wake-up kick that morning. 

Café Mitte

A local café with several branches across town. Each has its own special character but what they all have in common is pure quality coffee made from a good roast. The branch on Panska is a gorgeous little café with a tranquil courtyard – what a delight to sit here in the summer, tucked away from the heart of the action but still kinda right in the middle of it all.

Why I loved Café Mitte in Brno: I had a regular cappuccino and an iced coffee latte within the space of one hour. Again, the roast was top quality but played a minor role, as the creamy milk character took over. I think this is the secret to having multiple coffees in Brno within a short period of time because you can’t get over-caffeinated. I enjoyed both drinks but who wouldn’t in such a lovely setting?

Making of “Brno Cafes”

Here are some insights into my work and research when I compiled this post:

• Bought a book on Brno cafés at my own expense and read it in full
• Went on a 2h guided city tour on cafés organised by Traverse (I paid my ticket in full)
• Researched the best cafés from various publications
• (Re)visited 10+ cafes to do my own research
• Attended a coffee tasting organised by Traverse (I paid my ticket in full)
• Consulted tourist info and built relationship to the Tourism Board

FAQs About Brno Cafes

I understand this is quite a lengthy post and you may have some quick questions about Brno cafes and the best coffee in Brno. You can, of course, always come back to any section of my post and read in more detail what you’d need for your trip. If you have questions or need help, please get in touch and I’m happy to assist. 

Are Brno Cafes and Coffee Culture still a “Thing” in Brno?

Definitely! Even though Brno’s traditional coffee houses have been lost a century ago, their legacy lives on. The coffee culture is thriving and continues to place a mark on the city. From architectural influences to changes in the food scene and the establishment of a renowned wealth of coffee expertise make Brno a modern coffee culture to watch. The cafés in town are all super cosy and inviting for celebrating the Three C’s of Coffee Culture: coffee, cake and conversations. The relaxed vibe teamed with top class quality has catapulted Brno’s coffee culture into the ranks of the coffee elite. It is a tourism driver and massive pull for visitors to experience this laidback & unique coffee culture.

What is the average Price for a Coffee in Brno?

The average price for a cappuccino in Brno ranges from 55KR to 90KR. Prices are correct as of September 2022.

Are all Brno Cafes of great Quality?

All cafés visited in Brno served top quality coffee. The best coffee in Brno for me would be Café Monogram. I loved the balance of creamy texture yet the dry and dark coffee character was the star of the drink. Cappuccinos in Brno tend to be more creamy and milky, even though the roasted coffee is of very high quality. And let’s not forget the flourishing Barista culture. You can even take classes, e.g. Industra, on how to create the perfect artisanal patterns for your coffee at home.

Thanks so much for reading. If you’ve enjoyed my post on Brno cafes and would like to support my blog & research, you can do so via Buy Me a Coffee.

Till next time,

Carolin

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