The World Awaits
2016 Global Angling Guide 1-800 -552-2729
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CONTENTS DESTINATIONS New Zealand ...................................................................... 5
Saltwater Flats Christmas Island Outfitters ....................................... 54
Rockies Float Trips ................................................................................. 10 Crane Meadow........................................................................ 11 Montana .................................................................................... 12 Idaho ............................................................................................ 14 Colorado & Wyoming ....................................................... 16 Canada ........................................................................................ 18
Alaska Fly-out Lodges ....................................................................... 26
Venezuela.................................................................................... 55 Bahamas ...................................................................................... 56 Andros South Lodge ......................................................... 58 Yucatan Tarpon ..................................................................... 59 Yucatan ....................................................................................... 60 Belize ............................................................................................. 62 Indian Ocean .......................................................................... 64
Patagonia
Rapids Camp Lodge .............................................................. 28
Coyhaique River Lodge .................................................... 71
Alaska West .............................................................................. 29
Chile .............................................................................................. 72
Base Camps ................................................................................. 30
Argentina .................................................................................. 74
Fishing Bear Lodge .............................................................. 32
Jurassic Lake Lodge ............................................................. 76
Alaskan Peninsula ............................................................... 33
Kooi Noom ............................................................................... 77
Southeast Alaska .................................................................. 34
Tres Amigos .............................................................................. 78
British Columbia
Sea Trout
Smithers & Upper Skeena Region ................................ 42
Las Buitreras ........................................................................... 79
Silver Hilton Steelhead Lodge ................................... 44
Despedida Lodge ................................................................... 80
Skeena River Lodge ............................................................. 45 Terrace & Lower Skeena Region ................................. 46 BC West ....................................................................................... 48 Dean River ................................................................................. 49
Bolivia, Tsimane Lodge ........................................ 86 Brazil ........................................................................................ 87 Russia, Kola Peninsula ......................................... 94
Pacific Northwest Steelhead ................................................................................... 50 Speywater Lodge .................................................................... 52 Deschutes................................................................................... 53
Iceland & Norway ...................................................... 96 Mongolia ............................................................................. 98
The World Awaits
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WWW.FLYWATERTRAVEL.COM TOLL FREE: 1-800 -552-2729 • WWW.FLYWATERTRAVEL.COM
FEATURES Wyoming’s Brush Creek Ranch
Las Pampas
Brad Waitman
Kendjam
The Essence of Patagonia by Kyle Kolodziejski.................... 81
Unrivaled Luxury, Angling & Activities for All by Charles Gehr .......................... 20 Cut from Alaska’s Old Cloth by Ken Morrish ......................... 36
Call of the Wild by Ken Morrish ......................... 88
“¡Viva la Cuba!”
About the Cover
Opening Relations and Opening Doors for Saltwater Anglers by Dylan Rose........................... 65
Mossbrae Falls on northern California’s Upper Sacramento River Photo: Ken Morrish
Welcome to Fly Water Why We Fish
Our desire and need to fish is profoundly human, based in our primal instincts to provide or capture something of value, and in doing so, find purpose and satisfaction. No matter how refined or restricted our modern lives are, fishing enables and mandates true worry-free presence and participation in the natural world. When we fish our flies through promising water there is only the immediate, overwhelming desire to connect with something pure and wild, reaffirming our prowess and place in nature’s fluid hierarchy. Our efforts don’t always work, yet when the conditions are acceptable, let alone excellent, the simple act of fishing imparts a sense of focus, excitement and fulfillment experienced all too rarely in the mayhem of our modern world.
What Drives Us
Fly Water Travel was born of angling passion. The drive to stalk fish, the curiosity to explore and a dedication to continual improvement are twisted deep into the DNA of our founders and organization. From its inception, Fly Water has been an inspired endeavor forged by a special friendship, a shared sense of adventure and a love of wild fisheries. Fortunately for us (and our valued customers), our passion goes beyond the pleasures of our personal fishing, into a service ethos in which helping others access and experience the wonders of the angling world prove more satisfying and meaningful than our personal catches. Creating the west’s most respected, progressive and ethical fishing travel company has been a journey. The hardest and most exciting part has been realizing that the process is never complete and that everything we hope to accomplish remains a work in progress. Ask any of us today what drives Fly Water Travel and you won’t hear “seeing and fishing the world’s finest waters,” but rather, “creating the ultimate service company for anglers and outfitters alike.” While none of us feel we could ever spend enough time on the water, this commitment to making the service experience our highest priority is a choice we are proud of, and something all of us at Fly Water could not take more seriously. Our mission at Fly Water Travel has always been and remains to be, above all else, trusted service providers for a (continued on page 4)
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2016 Global Angling Guide (continued from page 3) This past August he also did an exploratory with vast and varied cast of his wife to the pristine and passionate, well-informed poetically beautiful Kendjam travelers. In keeping with in southern Brazil. David this mission we have Kalinowski, our Alaska always maintained that travel specialist, took a trip we care not where a parto the remote mousing waticular client goes as long ters of the Aniak, dropped as we have done our best in on the legendary Alaska to help them understand West camp on the Kanektok and select the options and hosted a group of fall that best suit their spesteelheaders at a new lodge cific needs and goals. on the remote and everAdditionally, once a trip The Fly Water Team. From left to right: Dylan Rose, Oren Grimm, productive Sandy River. is decided upon we are committed to making the Shannon Baily, Charles Gehr, Brian Gies, Lindy Miller, Ken Morrish, Fly Water co-founder Brian Patrice Dean, David Kalinowski and Kyle Kolodziejski. Gies fished for giant process of arranging all tarpon in the remote jungle waters of Nicaragua, did a boat the details as straightforward and user-friendly as possible. based exploratory trip to Location GTX in Indonesia and finished off the year with a trout trekking exploratory trip to 2015/2016 Highlights the semi-autonomous nation of Lesotho in South Africa. Once again we thank all of our customers, outfitters and To help manage all the details, we have also welcomed fans for making 2015 the best and most dynamic year of two additional team members. Oren Grimm and Shannon our 16-year history. Not only did we help a record number Baily have fit in perfectly and we have enjoyed watching our of anglers enjoy thoughtfully planned trips, but we, as a team, services improve with the addition of their skills. This coming ventured forth to explore and revisit a great many fabulous year will see more exciting changes with new guest-friendly places. Our saltwater specialist Dylan Rose legally immersed online booking systems and an increased focus on couples and himself in Cuba’s charm and splendor, as well as doing sigfamily-friendly multi-activity trips in which quality fishing nificant recon in southern Belize and the Bahamas. Our may at times be outshined by a rich cast of varied and availtalented new South American specialist Kyle Kolodziejski able experiences. Of course, as a company born of serious toured some of Argentina’s most exciting new destinations angling, we will continue to expand the depth and breadth of including Kooi Noom, Las Pampas, and Limay River Lodge our angling offerings and expertise. Already 2016 is shaping as well as revisiting the incomparable and vastly improved up nicely with travel plans to Argentina, Iceland, Nunavut, Jurassic Lake Lodge. Our veteran in the Rockies and the Christmas Island, Cuba and the American West all well PNW, Charles Gehr, visited and reported on the most luxunderway. We appreciate your ongoing loyalty and support urious private-water fly fishing and multi-sport lodge in the and we feel privileged to serve such a kind, well-informed and lower 48: Wyoming’s remarkable Brush Creek Ranch. Next passionate tribe of travelers. he floated with a great new family-friendly outfitter on Idaho’s Middle Fork of the Salmon and then reconnected with the Sincerely, Northwest’s ultimate instructional spey casting and steelhead fishing lodge on Oregon’s Grande Ronde River. Ken Morrish swung flies in Haida Gwaii, the trans-boundary headwaters of the Taku as well as BC’s beautiful Nass drainage. Brian Gies Ken Morrish
Join Us in Supporting These Organizations:
©2016 by Fly Water Travel, LLC. All rights reserved. Graphic design by CarterWorks of Ashland, Oregon, (541) 488-2391. Photo credits: Front & Back Covers, Ken Morrish. All other photos: Ken Morrish, Brian Gies, Charles Gehr, Dylan Rose, Matt Harris, Abe Blair, Bryan Gregson, Cpt. Jack Films, Brush Creek Ranch, Justi Campa, Val Atkinson, Brian O’Keefe, John Juracek, Tom Jenni, Walter Hodges, Mark Lance, Bryan Huskey, Paul Imperia, Fly Castaway, Deneki Outdoors, Northern Patagonia Fishing Company, Nervous Waters, Kharlovka Company, Yokanga Company, Nomads of the Sea, Lax-á and others.
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New Zealand
By many measures, New Zealand can be considered the world’s most rewarding and visually rich trout fishing. Photo: Matt Harris
New Zealand
P
erhaps the greatest of New Zealand’s inescapable charms is that the list of “must-do” activities invariably exceeds the number of one’s available vacation days. When it comes to countries that offer a wide array of natural wonders, beautiful vistas, professionally guided activities and well-run luxury lodges, New Zealand may well be the world’s greatest. Likewise, there is no masking our enthusiasm for fishing its countless rivers and streams. Simply put, we consider the trout fishing experience here to be the most distilled, challenging and rewarding in the world. The only issue with New Zealand is that a two-week trip is merely a tempting taste of all it has to offer. Located in the middle of the southern hemisphere, New Zealand’s two main islands are long and narrow. They are centered on the 41st parallel and stretch almost 1,000 miles on a north by northeast axis and boast 10,000 miles of coastline. Couple this with the fact that the islands lie right along the dramatic geologic boundary of the Pacific and Indo-Australian plates, and you can begin to understand the root of its spectacular and varied topography. The massive shift in these plates that happened millennia ago not only created the islands themselves, but gave rise to the South Island’s Southern Alps — a massive
mountain range which divides the island’s east and west coasts, and features at least 18 peaks reaching 10,000 feet or higher. Less mountainous but not to be outdone, the North Island is a highly active volcanic zone punctuated by Lake Taupo which sits smack-dab in the caldera of the world’s most active super-volcano. The weather in the country is no less dramatic. Driving through the South Island you can go from rainforest to semi-arid plains in a matter of miles, and many areas of the North Island are subtropical. All told, New Zealand takes top honors for packing a wide variety of stunning landscapes and unique ecosystems into a relatively small space. Custom Itineraries Due to New Zealand’s unparalleled diversity and the vast array of activities available to couples and anglers, our favorite trips often encompass visits to multiple destinations. To accommodate this, we have greatly expanded relationships with lodges and guides in virtually every corner of the country. Cumulatively these venues allow us to offer custom itineraries with a wide range of experiences centered around fishing, hiking, golf and sea kayaking as well as visiting the country’s top sights and winemaking regions.
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Matt Harris shows off a monster brown caught while fishing at Fiordland Lodge. Photo: Matt Harris
North Island Lodges Kauri Cliffs Experiences: Golf Set on 6,000 acres near the Bay of Islands in Northland, The Lodge at Kauri Cliffs features a spectacular 180-degree view of the Championship Golf Course and the Pacific Ocean. Cape Brett and the offshore Cavalli Islands are part of this stunning panorama, which can be viewed from the lodge’s verandas, lounge and dining room. Rate: NZ $890-$1,490 per night
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The Farm at Cape Kidnappers Experiences: Golf, wine tours The Lodge & Golf Course at Cape Kidnappers, known as ‘The Farm,’ is set on a vast sweeping 6,000-acre sheep and cattle ranch reminiscent of central California that plunges 800 feet into the sea. Cape Kidnappers is the sister property to Kauri Cliffs and Matakauri Lodge. Their spectacular golf course, designed by Tom Doak, is ranked 22nd in the world. Rate: NZ $775-$1490 Poronui Experiences: Fly fishing, riding, mountain biking, hiking Poronui’s unique combination of world-class wilderness fishing, elegant accommodations, gourmet food and wine, varied non-angling activities and modern conveniences has earned them a devout and loyal following from around the world. A true North Island classic. Rate: NZ $8,520-$12,090 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Tongariro Lodge Experiences: Fly fishing, hiking, golf, whitewater rafting As its name suggests, the lodge is situated on the banks of the North Island’s famous Tongariro River. Tongariro Lodge is a proven winner with the North Island’s most diverse access to trophy backcountry waters utilizing helicopters, rafts, and 4x4 vehicles. Rate: NZ $4,230-$5,392 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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New Zealand
Huka Lodge Experiences: Fly fishing, golf, hiking, wine tours The charming Irishman Alan Pye founded Huka Lodge during the 1920s and it quickly established a reputation for a unique and generous style of hospitality. This tradition continues today with Huka Lodge continuing to find favor with the world’s most discerning travelers. Rate: NZ $1,417-1,999 per person per night for fly fishing packages
South Island Lodges
Owen River Lodge Experiences: Fly fishing, hiking, riding, whitewater rafting, wine tours Located in the greater Nelson Lakes/Murchison region at the north end of the South Island, Owen River Lodge is a stylish yet understated lodge for discerning fly fishers. With its central location and the largest and most experienced guide team on the South Island, Owen’s guests can easily access more than thirty rivers in the area, most of which are less than an hour’s drive from their premises. Rate: NZ $6,200-$7,100 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Stonefly Lodge Experiences: Fly fishing, hiking, riding, sea kayaking Built from local stone and timber, this exclusive riverfront property sits on 156 acres of private forest and offers luxury accommodations in close proximity to three spectacular national parks (Abel Tasman, Nelson Lakes and Kahurangi). The lodge’s
large stone fireplace and the open kitchen adjoining the dining area create a warm, earthy atmosphere and a great base from which to explore the region’s parks and fisheries. Rate: NZ $5,500-6,500 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Cedar Lodge Experiences: Fly fishing Located along the banks of the Makarora River in the South Island’s stunningly beautiful Makarora Valley, Cedar Lodge is New Zealand’s only pure helicopter fly-out lodge. Their valley is surrounded by prime fly fishing territory in Mount Aspiring National Park. Established in 1979 by Dick and Robyn Fraser, Cedar Lodge features four rooms with views of their rugged surroundings and a comfortable lounge/dining area where gourmet meals are served. Rate: US $6,995 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
In addition to exceptional sea kayaking, New Zealand offers a host of hiking, riding, mountain biking and sightseeing opportunities. Photo: Matt Harris
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New Zealand
Nokomai Station Experiences: Fly fishing, hiking, farm stay Located just a short walk from the South Island’s Mataura River, known for its famous mayfly hatches, Nokamai Station is the perfect blend of fly fishing lodge and New Zealand farm stay. The station is one of New Zealand’s largest and is owned and operated by the wonderfully hospitable Hore family. Over 12 miles of the Mataura River run through the station, giving guests exclusive access to this world-class fishery. In addition to the Mataura, Nokomai’s central location gives its guide team access to over 20 other rivers and streams all within a 90-minute drive. Rate: NZ $4,070 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Hapuku Lodge Experiences: Whale-watching, dolphin swims, hiking, sea kayaking, wine tours Located in one of the most beautiful places in the world, Hapuku Lodge is a five-star eco-retreat just a few kilometers north of the seaside town of Kaikoura. The lodge itself is a complex of unique tree houses perched in native Kanuka trees not far from the majestic Kaikoura Mountains. Their idyllic setting is accented by wild deer wandering into their olive groves and vineyard as well as the picturesque backdrop of the Kaikoura range. Rate: NZ $1,100-$2,200 per night Split Apple Retreat Experiences: Hiking, sea kayaking, mountain biking, riding Split Apple Retreat is an exclusive luxury lodge and wellness retreat located on the edge of the South Island’s Abel Tasman National Park. Every aspect of the retreat revolves around relaxation and the pleasuring of one’s senses. Some of their outstanding features include a saltwater infinity swimming pool and a Japanese spa pool, both overlooking the Tasman Sea and Astrolabe Islands. They also have private paths leading to two beaches — one at the base of the property and another via a private easement through adjacent land to the beach that is the home of the famous 120-million-year-old Split Apple Rock, after which the retreat was named. Rate: NZ $1,900-2,100 per night
Fiordland Lodge is one of many spectacular accommodations that we use in setting up custom itineraries for couples and anglers alike. Photo: Matt Harris
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New Zealand
Prepping for the presentation, South Island, New Zealand. Photo: Matt Harris Wilderness Lodge, Lake Moeraki exclusive and luxurious wilderness experience unlike any other & Arthur’s Pass in New Zealand. Featuring four lavish chalets and a host of Experiences: Hiking, sea kayaking compelling, utterly private wilderness activities, Minaret Station The Wilderness Lodges are two complimentary facilities that is truly in a class by itself. showcase two stunningly wild and scenic parts of the South Rate: NZ $2,000 per night Island: the untamed west coast and highland heart of the Blanket Bay Lodge Southern Alps. Lake Moeraki Lodge features rainforests, lakes, Activities: Fly fishing, hiking, riding, whitewater rafting, golf rivers and wild seacoast. Arthur’s Pass Lodge is on a 6,000-acre Consistently voted one of the world’s best lodges by prestigious nature reserve and sheep farm encircled by snowcapped peaks publications and organizations, Blanket Bay is a magical and and glacier-fed rivers. rare haven of peace and solitude combining unspoiled beauty, Rate: NZ $800-1,200 per night outdoor adventure and rarely-matched luxury accommodaRiverrun Lodge tions. Situated on the shores of Lake Wakatipu on a 10,000 Experiences: Fly fishing, hiking, flight seeing, riding, mountain biking acre high-country farm, the lodge offers incredible lake and Riverrun is a uniquely handcrafted small luxury lodge located mountain views and an unforgettable base from which to near the resort town of Wanaka. Their 500-acre property overexperience all this region has to offer. looks the Clutha River and offers spectacular mountain views, Rate: NZ $1,150-3,400 per night tastefully designed accommodations, fine food and wine and Fiordland Lodge exceptional hospitality. Activities: Fly fishing, Milford and Doubtful sound tours, Nearby are two magnificent lakes, Lake Wanaka and hiking Lake Hawea, and the renowned wilderness of Mt. Aspiring Fiordland is one of the most dramatic and beautiful parts National Park. of New Zealand. Recognized as a World Heritage site, it is Rate: NZ $390-550 per night home to the Milford Sound and Doubtful Sound, two of the most famous and dramatic fiords on earth. Focusing Minaret Station on environmental sustainability coupled with true luxury, Activities: Fly fishing, hiking, mountain biking, heli-skiing, Fiordland Lodge is the perfect base for the ultimate South Island hunting, flight seeing experience. Accessible only by helicopter, the exceedingly remote, mounRate: NZ 5,050-5,800 per person for a 7 night/6 day package tainous and picturesque Minaret Station treats guests to an
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The Rockies
Float Trips Jenni’s Overnight Float Trips, Montana
Main Salmon River, Idaho
These trips stand out not only for the nature of the waterways fished, but also for their guides, equipment, work ethic and remarkable gourmet meals. Clients can select from multi-day overnight trips on the Yellowstone, Madison, Missouri, Blackfoot, Clark’s Fork and Bitterroot rivers. Honestly, what could be finer than spending the day floating a river, catching wild trout and then arriving at a fully prepared camp for a lavish meal of rack of lamb, grass-fed bison or wild salmon? Rate: $2,500 per person for a 4 night/5 day package
This 85-mile trip cuts through the largest wilderness area in the lower 48 states and the second-deepest river canyon on the continent. The Main Salmon River is undammed and virtually untouched by modern civilization. Most of the fishing entails wading up tributary creeks and throwing dry flies to native cutthroat. With incredible whitewater and glorious sandy beach camps, this is an ideal family trip for anglers with non-fishing family members. Rate: $2,250 per person for a 5 night/6 day package
Middle Fork of the Salmon River, Idaho
Black Canyon of the Gunnison River, Colorado
The most prolific and unspoiled westslope cutthroat trout fishery in the world, the Middle Fork of Idaho’s Salmon River offers what many consider the finest multi-day wilderness float trip in America. While the fly fishing is excellent throughout the season, the early season favors big whitewater and the late season favors fly fishing. This is an incredible family trip and is perfect for anglers of all skill levels. Rate: $3,140 per person for a 5 night/6 day fly fishing package, $2,260 per person rafting package
A float through the steep-walled Gunnison Gorge is one of the top fly fishing trips in the lower 48. This wilderness area features spectacular scenery, wildlife viewing, and excellent fly fishing for rainbow and brown trout in the 12 to 18-inch class. This trout-filled float through time is a classic not to be missed. Rate: $2,016 per person for a 4 night/3 day package
The Nelson clan on Idaho’s Main Salmon. Photo: Brian Gies
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The Rockies
Fly Water’s Charles Gehr and guide Tyler Barrus survey a prime pool on a secret system. Photo: Ken Morrish
Crane Meadow Lodge
L
One of Fly Water’s with a comfortable living area, fireplace, spaocated in the heart of an 20,000-acre ranch most popular cious dining room and complimentary bar. on the Ruby River, just outside the town of destinations for all The dinner menu features local specialties Twin Bridges in southwestern Montana, Crane the right reasons with an emphasis on wild game. Breakfasts Meadow’s exceptional private water program are continental. and home-style hospitality make it among our For those who long for quality guides, warm hospitality top picks for serious anglers who like long, productive days and the uncrowded dry fly waters of yesteryear, this is the place. on the water. In addition to the ranch’s twelve miles of private Rate: $3,165 per person for a 5 night/4 day package access to the Ruby River, Leonard Spring Creek and Mill Creek, Crane Meadow has exclusive leases with more than a dozen local landowners, enabling access to seldom-fished reaches of the Beaverhead, upper Ruby and countless other secret spots. The lodge’s unmatched public water program allows anglers to float the Madison, Jefferson, Big Hole and Beaverhead or wade Proposal and Poindexter sloughs. Many anglers visiting Crane will elect to float one of the nearby rivers for the first half of the day and wade the ranch’s private water in the evening. Crane Meadow Lodge features four private cabins, each complete with queen beds, separate living areas and screened porches. The main lodge features a relaxing western atmosphere
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Anglers enjoy a September float on the lower Big Hole. Photo: Ken Morrish
The Rockies
Montana Bighorn River Lodge
North Fork Crossing Lodge
A benchmark for quality tailrace trout fishing in the United States, the Bighorn River remains a system against which all others are measured. A mixed bag of techniques and large numbers of trout in the 16 to 20-inch class characterize this fishery. The log-built main lodge features Montana-style décor with a large outdoor patio overlooking a five-acre stocked pond. Double occupancy rooms with private baths ensure a restful night’s sleep and make this a natural choice for anglers of all skill levels looking for a short, productive getaway. Rate: $2,695 per person for a 5 night/4 day package
Located in the heart of western Montana’s least traveled dry fly waters, North Fork Crossing Lodge shows the visiting angler what classic Montana trout fishing is all about. The Blackfoot River enjoys low angling pressure and prolific hatches of aquatic insects. In addition to the Blackfoot’s 50 miles of classic trout water, the Missouri, Bitterroot and Clark Fork Rivers are within easy reach. Guests at North Fork Crossing Lodge stay in deluxe double occupancy wall tents with wood floors, electricity, heaters, plush beds, fine linens and dressers ensuring that your “rustic” experience includes all the comforts you’d expect from a fine Montana lodge. Rate: $3,250 per person for a 5 night/4 day package
Firehole Ranch Firehole Ranch is a classic western guest ranch. Their handsome facility sits alone overlooking Hebgen Lake just outside of West Yellowstone, Montana and is an ideal base from which to access Montana’s best trout fishing including the Madison, Gallatin, Henry’s Fork and the varied waters of Yellowstone National Park. The ranch itself is impressive and offers activities for non-anglers including canoeing, hiking, mountain biking and trail riding. The level of service is outstanding, making this a sought-after destination for anglers and nature lovers alike. Rate: $4,300 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Harrison Homestead Listed on the National Historic Register, the Homestead is not so much a lodge but rather a charming home-like base where groups of six can set their own schedule. Staffed with a professional chef, all meals are served in the dining room overlooking the handsome property. Located on the banks of the ultra-productive Yellowstone River, Harrison Homestead also fishes the nearby Paradise Valley Spring Creeks, the Stillwater River, and the Boulder River. Fall pheasant hunts also available. Rate: $2,500 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Linehan Outfitting Company The Kootenai River is one of the great undiscovered rivers of America. Located in the extreme northwest corner of Montana, anglers keen on fishing dries typically rack up big numbers of fish every day. With excellent small stream options as well, this is a natural for groups that thrive on lots of action. Custom packages include sumptuous meals and multiple lodging options at tastefully appointed cabins. Rate: $3,025 for one or two persons for a 5 night/4 day package
Ruby Springs Lodge With arguably the highest re-booking rate in the state, Ruby Springs continues to define the deluxe western trout fishing experience. In addition to fishing a wide range of waters including the Madison, Ruby, and Beaverhead, guests enjoy the finest meals and cabin accommodations Montana has to offer. Rate: $4,625 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Lodge at Eagle Rock As the first full service lodge on Montana’s Missouri River, the Lodge at Eagle Rock offers the type of fly fishing experience we have waited years for. Arguably the most productive system in Montana, the Missouri should be on every western angler’s list. In addition to floats on the Missouri, guests can choose to fish tributaries such as Prickly Pear Creek, Belt Creek, the Dearborn River and others. Jet boat trips to the Land of Giants can be arranged for an additional charge. Rate: $2,900 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Blue Damsel Lodge: Located on western Montana’s legendary Rock Creek, Blue Damsel Lodge offers world-class day floats and walk and wade fishing for a variety of great local waters. Anglers have the option to float the Bitterroot, Blackfoot and Clark Fork Rivers but it’s often the wade fishing opportunities on Rock Creek and other area waters that provide the biggest draw for dry fly fishermen. Guests enjoy comfortable double occupancy rooms in the main lodge. Rate: $3,375 per person for a 5 night/4 day package
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The Rockies
Early morning on the scenic South Fork of the Snake. Photo: Ken Morrish
Idaho
Henry’s Fork Lodge For more than 20 years, Henry’s Fork Lodge has been one of Idaho’s premier destinations. In addition to miles of the fabled Henry’s Fork, the lodge also ventures out to the Madison, Yellowstone, Firehole, Gibbon, Gallatin, Lamar, Slough Creek,
Hebgen Lake, and Henry’s Lake. Non-anglers will enjoy the tasteful accommodations, in close proximity to Yellowstone Park, and additional activities such as hiking, horseback riding and mountain biking. Whether you are a seasoned traveling angler or a newcomer to the sport and region, Henry’s Fork Lodge will provide you with an angling and lodging experience that you will appreciate and enjoy. Rate: $4,026 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Natural Retreats South Fork Lodge The South Fork of the Snake River is one of the West’s most productive fisheries and enjoys one of the longest dry fly seasons in the lower 48. Hands down the place to stay here is Natural Retreats Snake River, overlooking the river. Their setting and facilities are among the finest in the Rockies with a great restaurant and bar scene in the evening. The majority of the fly fishing is done from drift boats in the early season, with wading selected riffles becoming more common as water levels drop in the fall. Rate: $2,850 per person for a 5 night/4 day package
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The Rockies
Teton Springs Lodge & Spa Located in the idyllic Teton Valley, Teton Springs Lodge & Spa is the ultimate venue for larger parties and corporate groups. The facility includes an award-winning 18-hole golf course, full spa, private ponds and conference center. Guiding is provided by the professionals at WorldCast Anglers who offer anglers a host of incredible fisheries including the South Fork of the Snake, Teton River, Green River and some little-known private streams. Rate: $1,845 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Main Salmon River
Middle Fork of the Salmon River The most prolific and unspoiled westslope cutthroat trout fishery in the world, the Middle Fork of Idaho’s Salmon River offers what many consider the finest multi-day wilderness float trip in America. While the fly fishing is excellent throughout the season, the early season favors big whitewater, and the late season favors fly fishing. This is an incredible family trip and perfect for anglers of all skill levels. Rate: $3,140 per person for a 5 night/6 day fly fishing package, $2,260 per person rafting package
This 85-mile trip cuts through the largest wilderness area in the lower 48 states and the second deepest river canyon on the continent. The Main Salmon River is undammed and virtually untouched by modern civilization. Most of the fishing entails wading up tributary creeks and throwing dry flies to native cutthroat. With incredible whitewater and glorious sandy beach camps this is an ideal family trip for anglers with non-fishing family members. Rate: $2,250 per person for a 5 night/6 day package
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The Rockies
The view looking down 4UR’s fabulous Goose Creek valley. Photo: Charles Gehr
Colorado & Wyoming 4UR Ranch
North Platte Lodge
There are places on earth that can stun even the most jaded of travelers. 4UR Ranch is one such place. Its centerpiece is Goose Creek, with over seven miles of private stream that brims with willing trout. Add to that sporting clays, trap, hiking, trail rides, majestic vistas from almost anywhere on the ranch property, mineral hot springs, programs for kids and superb dining, and you will quickly understand why families from around the nation return here year after year for the ultimate Colorado dude ranch experience. Rate: $3,100 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
The North Platte River, from the Miracle Mile to the town of Glenrock, is one of the world’s most productive tailwaters where the average fish would be considered a trophy in most other systems. Anglers fish the Grey Reef section of the Platte from drift boats with the option of wading prime runs. Anglers typically spend the majority of their days casting nymphs and streamers. Fish in the 3 to 4-pound class are expected daily with a very strong possibility of landing even larger trophies. Rate: $2,000 per person for a 5 night/4 day package
K-T Ranch
The North Platte River offers a multitude of wade fishing and float fishing opportunities. With access to over twenty miles of the North Platte River, the guides at Four Seasons Anglers are uniquely qualified to show you what wild trout fishing in the American West can be. Lodging options range from simple hotels to full service lodges with private river access. Fishing options include multiple sections of the North Platte and Encampment Rivers as well as private stillwaters.
Located just outside of Meeker, Colorado, the 1,000-acre K-T Ranch is home to an outstanding fly fishing program that incorporates four miles of private water on the White River and another three miles of private spring creeks. Guests stay in one of four rooms within the fully renovated historic farm house. For anglers keen on exceptional private waters and savvy guides, this little- known gem is a venue not to be missed. Rate: $3,370 plus taxes per person for a 5 night/4 day package PAGE 16
Upper North Platte River Day Trips
Rate: $475 per day
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The Rockies
El Rancho Pinoso Hidden within Southern Colorado’s San Juan Mountains is a pair of properties so beautiful that you will marvel at their perfection. With significant tracts of private acreage, fully restored historic cabins with all the modern comforts, abundant wildlife and fabulous fly fishing flowing through it all, these properties will compel all who visit to return again. Both El Rancho Pinoso and Weminuche Valley Ranch differ from standard lodges in the respect that they more closely resemble deluxe catered rental properties than hosted lodges. With easy wading, great dry fly fishing and plenty of fish pushing 20 inches, these undiscovered gems are two of the finest and most fairly priced private water venues in the West. Rate: $3,256.50 plus taxes per person for a 5 night/4 day package The High Lonesome Ranch For families looking for the ultimate high country multi-activity dude ranch experience, look no further than the High Lonesome Ranch. This sprawling property, located at 5,000
feet elevation on Colorado’s western slope, encompasses a myriad of ecosystems and provides a range of outdoor adventures for the whole family. In a week-long stay guests choose from activities that include horseback riding, skeet and trap shooting, hiking, mountain biking, whitewater rafting, golf, winery tours and yoga classes. Meanwhile, the anglers in the group will find the 18 spring-fed stillwaters full of healthy, heavily built trout. Accommodations of different configurations are spread throughout the ranch, ensuring guests the level of privacy and amenities they’re looking for. Rate: $2,570 plus taxes per person for a 5 night/4 day package Black Canyon of the Gunnison River A float through the steep walled Gunnison Gorge is one of the top fly-fishing trips in the lower 48. This wilderness area features spectacular scenery, wildlife viewing and excellent fly fishing for rainbow and brown trout in the 12 to 18-inch class. This troutfilled float through time is a classic not to be missed. Rate: $2,016 per person for a 4 night/3 day package
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The Rockies
Guide and angler with a bull trout from Tsylos’ Chilko Lake. Photo: Charles Gehr
The Rockies
Canada Eastslope Adventures, Alberta Cam Jensen’s Eastslope Adventures specializes in guiding a host of productive and unspoiled trout fisheries in southwest Alberta, including the Castle, Oldman, Waterton and St. Mary river drainages. Although the bulk of this program is walk and wade, the early season takes advantage of drift trips in rafts. This is a sophisticated wild trophy trout fishery with prolific insect hatches and some of the largest and feistiest fish south of Alaska. Packages include accommodations and meals at a no-frills log home situated on the Waterton River. Rate: $2,440 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Elk River Guiding Company, BC Elk River Guiding Company specializes in drift boat and wade fishing the waters of Southeastern British Columbia and Southern Alberta. Here, anglers enjoy the magic of exceptional dry fly streams including the Elk, Wigwam, Oldman, Crow, and other local tributaries. We offer custom itineraries with multiple lodging options including simple hotels, in-town condo units, and deluxe full service lodges in and around the charming mountain town of Fernie, BC. Rate: CAD $1,731 per person plus taxes for a 5 night/4 day package at Park Place Lodge (meals not included) Tsylos Park Lodge, BC This storybook Canadian lodge offers a genuine “off the grid” wilderness experience. The Chilko Lake/River area is wild, remote,
and stunningly beautiful. Here, anglers focus on fishing large dry flies for substantial wild rainbows on 15 miles of the Chilko River as well as heading out on the glorious Chilko Lake to pull streamers for large bull trout. In addition to spectacular trout fishing, Tsylos is equally renowned for its world-class riding program. Rate: $4,295 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 ½ day package Spatsizi Wilderness Lodge With exclusive access to 1.5 million acres of the most beautiful, prolific and unspoiled dry fly fishing in the world, Spatsizi Wilderness Lodge remains in a class by itself. Here, anglers fly out to fish a wide range of well-rested systems including numerous mountain streams, beautiful lakes and the remarkable Firesteel River. When it comes to high-catch light tackle trout fishing, utter solitude and incredible scenery, few if any destinations compare. Rate: $4,950-$6,850 per person for a 7 night/8 day package
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Wyoming’s
Brush Creek Ranch Unrivaled Luxury, Angling & Activities for All
By Charles Gehr Brush Creek’s spectacular centerpiece, Trailhead Lodge. Photo: Brush Creek Ranch
I
n my mind this place wavers like a dream, except that I know with certainty that I was actually there and it was real. I admit that I am biased towards Wyoming. From southern Colorado north through Banff, I know and love the Rockies, but for a number of reasons, I most revere Wyoming. By choice I went to college there, and by choice I committed several crimes of angling passion there, the most relevant of which was deliberately “poaching” a certain reach of Brush Creek. It’s the only time in my life I’ve knowingly fished water on private property. It was under different ownership then and I too was a different person, not that either excuse the offense. But the truth was I had heard of a particular pristine tributary of the North Platte called Brush Creek that was the type of trout stream where fly anglers wanted their ashes scattered. Fast-forward 15 years. I am now an “established fly fishing professional.” I spent three years working in fly shops, I spent five years guiding the Deschutes, and six years ago moved to Ashland, Oregon as the Rockies travel specialist for Fly Water Travel. Then, roughly a year ago, I learned that a new and reportedly fabulous facility, far beyond the scope of the specialized fishing lodges with which I most often work, had opened somewhere east of Saratoga, Wyoming. It was called Brush Creek Ranch. I googled it and zoomed in on the upside-down red teardrop. It was, of course, the same gorgeous creek I had briefly poached my junior year. Yet as I made plans to legally PAGE 20
revisit, I had no idea that this property had recently become the benchmark for western dude ranches; a place where pampered elegance, an enormous number of adventure activities, fly fishing and hunting all prospered together. In 2009, the current owner of Brush Creek Ranch, who shall remain anonymous, purchased a grand sprawling property smack-dab in the middle of Wyoming’s stunning Sierra Madre Mountains. Subsequent land acquisitions have brought the total to 30,000 acres. His intention was to create a lavish getaway retreat for family and friends. Given his history of creating high-end hotels across the country, no comfort, detail or expense was spared in the building of his personal log cabins, main lodge and recreation facilities. After a year of private operation, the guests and owner alike agreed it was unfair to keep such an incredible experience hidden from the outside world. The facility and setting were just too spectacular and the level of service too refined to withhold it from the public. Starting in 2011 Brush Creek Ranch opened to the public, and the response from guests confirmed that this property holds a truly special place in the upper echelon of the world’s luxury sporting lodges. Simply put, the spectacular Lodge and Spa at Brush Creek Ranch offers couples, families with children, and serious sportsmen alike the greatest variety of quality activities and experiences that we have ever seen.
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WYOMING’S BRUSH CREEK RANCH
Accommodations For All The lodging options at Brush Creek Ranch are vast and varied, ensuring your stay at the Ranch is perfectly suited to the size and needs of your group. Guests can choose from elegant lodge rooms, intimate cabin suites, or larger cabin residences. For larger groups looking to have a private fully-staffed ranch experience, the Magee Homestead offers the ultimate in exclusivity and comfort, and for those wanting to rough it a bit, Brush Creek even offers a great night of remote “glamping” with advance notice. The centerpiece of Brush Creek Ranch is their 38,000 sq. ft. Trailhead Lodge. This impressive facility boasts an elegant dining area, single and double occupancy lodge rooms, a vast wine cellar open to guests daily, a full-service spa/salon and a wellness center. Trailhead Lodge houses 13 luxurious guest rooms with captivating ranch views, expansive rooms and refined western décor. For couples seeking additional privacy, their Cabin suites, situated close to the Trailhead Lodge, offer guests the same amenities (including heated bathroom floors and 400-thread-count sheets) as the lodge rooms with additional living areas. For groups or families, Brush Creek Ranch also offers a series of 10 deluxe cabins with unique room configurations, ensuring that there’s a finely appointed residence that meets your party’s exact needs. For the ultimate in large family and private party gatherings, the Magee Homestead at Brush Creek Ranch offers a secluded hideaway with a full service facility and dedicated staff. Located just five miles from the main lodge, the Magee Homestead
features a private lodge and seven historically restored cabins in a tranquil creekside setting. A full complement of private staff will ensure that private parties of up to 24 are able to enjoy all that the Ranch has to offer in privacy and unmatched comfort.
Activities Beginning with horseback riding, hiking, mountain biking, indulgent spa experiences or fully outfitted fishing, shooting and hunting programs, Brush Creek Ranch offers quality options for every conceivable guest. Western Riding: Irrespective of age or ability, Brush Creek offers all who are interested the opportunity to ride welltrained horses in the heart of the true west. From their stately 28,000-square-foot indoor riding arena and stables to over 50 miles of private trails and endless open range, Brush Creek Ranch provides a memorable and quality riding experience. Guests can start their weeks with a variety of general rides, working into the more advanced options. Riders with previous experience can graduate to more difficult trail rides or elect to learn the art of reading and cutting cattle with real cowboys. Hiking & Mountain Biking: Brush Creek Ranch has more than 50 miles of groomed single and double track trails for guests to experience on foot or on bike. The Outfitter’s Center offers high-quality full-suspension mountain bikes and all other necessary equipment. Guests can join guided group hikes/rides or venture out on their own to explore the Ranch.
Fishing for wild trout on the upper reaches of the North Platte. Photo: Brush Creek Ranch
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WYOMING’S BRUSH CREEK RANCH Trailhead Spa: The Trailhead Spa offers a full range of massage, skin, and salon services as well as saunas, steam rooms, an outdoor hot tub and a state-of-the-art fitness center, enabling guests’ access to full relaxation and wellness.
perfect for beginner and intermediate sport climbers or anyone wanting to experience the thrill of rock climbing in a controlled environment with the safety and reassurance of proper ropes and harnesses.
Shooting: Brush Creek offers venues for rifle, shotgun, pistol and archery enthusiasts alike. With competition rifle and shotgun courses, a five-stand competition shooting course and an eight-station walking sporting clays course with multiple shooting scenarios, they have it all. In addition, the Ranch offers standard rifle and pistol ranges as well as mechanical targets. Archers enjoy two separate 3-D archery courses, one with 3-D animals and the other with less walking and more concentrated targets.
Kids Program: One of the best ways to ensure that parents and grandparents have a good time is to ensure that the youngsters are having an even better time. Brush Creek understands this and proudly offers a truly remarkable experience for kids through their Lil’ Wranglers program. The program is lead by highly qualified professional guides and counselors so you can find comfort in knowing your children are enjoying their own adventures. Over the course of the week, the Lil’ Wranglers experience archery, arts and crafts, calf scramble, capture the flag, fort building, geocaching, hay rides, hiking, low-impact paintball, low ropes course, mountain biking, ranger tours, pond fishing, horseback riding, roping lessons, scavenger hunts and ziplines, making it the most dynamic and multifaceted kids program we have encountered.
Hunting: In the fall, the ownership’s Brush Creek Ranch Outfitters offers guided hunts on selected reaches of their vast 20-square-mile property. With an unsurpassed variety of terrain and an utter absence of outside competition, their fully outfitted, fully guided experiences are a rare and productive treat. Seasonally dependent, guests can target elk, deer, antelope, mountain lion and moose as well as bountiful up-land hunting for pheasant and chukar.
Fishing Program
Just like everything else at Brush Creek Ranch, their fly fishing program is vast, varied and in a class by itself. With more than 20 miles of essentially private rivers and streams and multiple still water venues, Brush Creek Ranch can keep a serious fly angler fishing new quality waters for weeks. This is not a program put together as an afterthought to a dude ranch experience, but rather one of the pillars of what the ranch holds dear. The Ranch employs a team of dedicated professional fly fishing guides that take Ropes Course: The ranch offers two full great pride in guiding some of the wildest and least-travMorrish ropes courses, a high course and a low course. Both eled trout waters in the American West. If you’ve never Hopper include obstacles that you must negotiate through, held a fly rod but have some interest in giving it a try, over and around. Cargo nets, suspended ladders and swingthis may be one of the best places we know of to give newcomers ing bridges offer safe, exciting challenges for adventurers of to the sport a positive first experience. Remarkably, the majority all ages. Additionally, their high course features three ziplines of Brush Creek’s guided fishing trips are included in the package spanning nearly 500 ft. price while certain float trips on more distant public waters are treated as add-ons. The following is a detailed look at some of Yoga & Fitness: Bringing a variety of yoga styles to the their key fisheries. Ranch, Brush Creek’s certified instructors have taught at some of the world’s finest luxury yoga resorts. In addition to stunNorth Platte River: The North Platte is a discreet ning indoor and outdoor teaching locations, guests also enjoy Western gem and one of the most underappreciated trout access to a full state-of-the-art fitness center with cardio equiprivers in the Rockies. The sections of the North Platte accessed ment, free weights, strength training circuit, stretching area, by Brush Creek Ranch are wild-flowing blue-ribbon waters private showers, sauna and steam room. that have not been stocked since the late 70’s. This is true wild Paintball: If, in the back of your mind, you have ever wanted to try paintball in a safe, non-threatening setting, there is no better place than this. Brush Creek’s private paintball course is positioned along a hilltop meadow with unique rock outcroppings that provide interesting cover and hiding spots. All games are organized, supervised and refereed by professional staff. All equipment and fatigues are included.
Climbing Wall: The Ranch has a 30-foot artificial climbing wall with multiple self-belay cables. The wall is
trout fishing and, as such, offers the promise of both world-class catching and technical challenges. Conditions on the North
“Simply put, the luxurious Lodge and Spa at Brush Creek Ranch offers couples, families with children, and serious sportsmen alike the greatest variety of authentic quality activities and experiences that we have ever seen.” PAGE 22
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Top: The elegant Magee Homestead; a wild brown trout from Brush Creek. Middle: The view from the main lodge. -552-2729 Bottom: The spa; morning yoga class; instruction at the1-800 range. Photos: Charles Gehr and Brush Creek Ranch
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WYOMING’S BRUSH CREEK RANCH Platte change constantly, meaning that on any given day one Encampment River: The Encampment River is the might fish dry flies for an hour of match-the-hatch fishing, toss most significant North Platte tributary that most people have a light nymph rig to suspended fish, and even lob big lead-eyed never heard of. That’s because it’s the river that local anglers streamers. Holding a mix of brown, rainbow and cutthroat trout, don’t like to talk about. Brush Creek Ranch owns two different the North Platte boasts an impressive 4,000-6,000 properties on the Encampment River, totaling about fish per mile, offering the distinct possibility of 3.5 miles of riverfront. The Encampment catching a Rockies Grand Slam as well as some is available as a half day walk-in option for truly impressive catches of fish in the 14 to 22-inch anglers, though the river truly deserves a full day class. Brush Creek Ranch offers full day floats, half day of floating it in a raft with a fishing frame. Due to floats and walk/wade half day trips on the North Platte. the nature of the streambed, wading opportunities are Morrish Float trips allow visiting anglers to access the greatest limited during the full day float trips. During June, A n ato May variety of water as well as the ability to wade fish as little July and August the Encampment River offers visitor as much as one likes. ing anglers the best shot at hatch-specific dry fly fishing as well as opportunities to catch some truly impressive trout in the 15 Brush Creek: Flowing wild beneath a canopy of towerto 24-inch range. The green drake hatch on the Encampment ing cottonwood trees, Brush Creek itself is the centerpiece of enjoys near-legendary status, though hatches of stoneflies, the Ranch’s fishing program. The ranch contains approximately caddis and other mayflies keep things interesting throughout four miles of Brush Creek and all guests even remotely interestthe majority of their season. ed in fly fishing should spend some amount of time experiencing it. While relatively small, Brush Creek holds an impressive number of brown and brook trout in the 8 to 14-inch range with occasional fish up to 20 inches. Much of the creek is characterized by riffles, pocket water and an occasional long-tailed plunge pool. Dry flies and dry/dropper presentations tend to be the ticket. Days on Brush Creek are divided into morning and afternoon sessions, with lunch breaks most often taken at the lodge. Guests depart for their fishing days with guides in 4X4 ATVs that are specifically outfitted to carry fly fishing gear. French Creek: Less than 25 ft. across, magical little French Creek is considered by many the crown jewel of the Brush Creek Ranch fishing program. For those that like unenhanced, truly wild brown trout fishing, this system offers four miles of exactly that. Don’t think for a minute that the size of this intimate walk and wade stream is indicative of the size of its fish, as this creek has some beauties. Additionally, a deluxe, fully staffed, creekside satellite facility for groups of up to 10 anglers has just been completed on French Creek. The brand new, exquisitely appointed French Creek Sportsman’s Club will likely become a coveted classic among the west’s most discerning small stream enthusiasts.
Stillwaters: In addition to the many miles of free-flowing river and stream fishing, Brush Creek Ranch has seven still water ponds that are brimming with willing trout. For someone who wants to try fly fishing for the first time, a kid that wants to catch a fish by any means necessary, or a seasoned angler looking for a few hours’ worth of relaxation, we strongly encourage you to sample some of these great ponds. Over the past six seasons I have seen a lot of operations and spent a good deal of time mulling over what makes each special and uniquely appropriate for a diverse mix of travelers and anglers. After departing Brush Creek Ranch, there was some real processing that took place. My head was spinning. Never had I been to a single operation that offered so much, in such a setting, and with such attention to luxury and detail. The entire place was over-the-top, yet utterly appealing in all aspects. In terms of a destination where visitors of all ages, sexes, interests, and abilities had more than ample opportunities to indulge themselves, Brush Creek looms in a golden light all its own. It is just one of those places, now that I am older, where I could imagine my ashes being someday scattered.
Notes
Travel: Guests fly into Laramie, WY where they will be picked up by the ranch. Alternately guests may fly into Denver, CO and rent a car for the 2.5 hour drive. Private air transportation may land in Saratoga, WY only 13 miles from the ranch. Season: April–November Capacity: 150 guests Essential Tackle: A 5 or 6-weight fly rod with a weight-forward floating line. Top Flies: Morrish Hopper, Morrish Anato-May, Olive/Yellow cone head Zuddler
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Top: Zip-lining Wyoming style; the bar at Trailhead Lodge. Middle: Campfire circle outside the main lodge. Bottom: Riding on the -552-2729 PAGE 25 property; fishing the North Platte. Photos: Charles Gehr1-800 and Brush Creek Ranch
Alaska
An angler plucks a rainbow trout from the spawning sockeyes on American Creek. Photo: Ken Morrish
Alaska Fly-Outs
T
he argument could be made that the float plane made the ultimate Alaskan angling experience possible and continues to define it. The roar of the radial engine, the crushing beauty of soaring above water-woven landscapes bathed in dappled light and the unbridled freedom to go
where one pleases are just a few of the gifts that the float plane has given us. Today there are many fine lodges that offer anglers the opportunity to get into an aircraft with an experienced pilot so you can in turn experience all that a given region has to offer. The following are a cross section of some of the finest. No See Um Lodge Few operations enjoy the reputation for quality, comfort, and hospitality that No See Um Lodge and the Holman family has earned over the past 25 years. No See Um Lodge is one of the few lodges that provide pilot-guides, ensuring that their handsome DeHavilland Beaver floatplanes stay with the anglers all day every day. These folks know the rainbow and salmon waters of the greater Iliamna/Katmai region like the backs of their hands and enjoy one of the highest return rates in the state. Rate: $9,200 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Alaska
Royal Wolf Lodge When asked where to go to focus on hunting big rainbows, Royal Wolf Lodge is always at the top of the list. With a strategic location in the heart of Katmai’s most prolific waters and some of the most gifted and experienced guides in the state, Chris and Linda Branham’s Royal Wolf Lodge is in a class by itself. When it comes to short flying times and incredible walk and wade fisheries, this is the place. Rate: $7,250-$8,450 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Igiugig Lodge With 29 years of guiding the region, Brad Waitman has created one of the most unique and intimate operations in the state. Catering to only five guests a week, his program allows for three anglers to fly out with him each day and two anglers to focus on the trophy waters of the Kvichak. This is not only one of the greatest values in Alaska but also a shining example of what a hands-on owner-operated lodge can be. Rate: $6,500 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Rainbow King Lodge Located on the shores of Lake Iliamna, Rainbow King Lodge has gone above and beyond to ensure that their guests get the most exclusive fishing experience that Alaska has to offer. With private leases on fabled waters including the Copper, Dream Creek, Gilbraltor and Upper Talarik, competition is minimal and rewards are maximized. Rainbow King also offers one of the longest silver seasons in the region, a huge flying range and a handsome halibut boat at sea. Rate: $8,350 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Enchanted Lake Lodge Nestled on a private bluff within the Katmai National Park, this luxurious facility is a true all-inclusive fly fishing experience. Short flights in their two immaculate DeHavilland Beavers bring anglers to some of the most fabled waters in all of Alaska including Moraine, Big and Little Ku, Funnel, Battle and Kulik. With seasoned guides, top shelf cuisine and a remarkable facility, Enchanted Lake Lodge is widely considered the most deluxe fly-out lodge in the state. Rate: $9,500 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Royal Coachman Lodge Of the three primary fishing regions in Southwest Alaska, the Wood-Tikchik is the least traveled, and in the eyes of many, the most beautiful. It is also the home of Royal Coachman Lodge and one of the friendliest and most diverse fly-out operations in the state. From their base overlooking the Nuyakuk River, Royal Coachman targets all of the state’s freshwater species and enjoys an incredible fly-friendly private water lease with prolific runs of sea-bright salmon. Rate: $8,650 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Intricate Bay Lodge Overlooking the serene waters of Lake Iliamna’s Intricate Bay, this comfortable and completely rebuilt facility allows anglers easy boat access to the trophy trout water of the Copper River as well as a wide range of fly-outs to many of Bristol Bay’s most productive systems. Additionally Intricate Bay Lodge offers guests a wide range of price point packages to choose from. Rate: $7,750 per person for a 6 night/7 day package
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Alaska
With a vast array of aircrafts, angling options and all the gear that guests require, Rapids Camp offers anglers of all skill levels the ultimate Alaskan experience. Photo: Ken Morrish
Rapids Camp Lodge
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Moraine, Battle Creek, Kulik, Little Ku and apids Camp Lodge is an easy-to-reach, The best-equipped and American. Other prolific “under the radar” full service fly-out lodge with excellent most versatile fly-out rainbow fisheries mandate sturdy walking legs. home waters and one of the most diverse lodge in the state Additionally, Rapids Camp Lodge is one of and exciting fishing programs in Alaska. the few destinations equipped and willing to handle a limited Seasoned hardcore fly anglers appreciate the wide range range of eco-activities including flightseeing the region’s many of water the lodge frequents. This includes staples like the glaciers and volcanoes, bear and wildlife viewing, clam digging, beachcombing and halibut fishing. The lodge features eight comfortable double-occupancy rooms with private baths, a friendly wine and beer bar, two gourmet chefs, a workout room, state-of-the-art tackle and waders. With three Beavers and a turbine Otter, handsome jet boats for their prolific home waters on the Naknek and a saltwater boat located in the unparalleled Geographic Harbor, Rapids Camp has endless options for all who visit. Whether you are after silvers or kings, massive rainbows on the spey rod or a crack at wilderness rainbows that rarely see a fly, this is an operation that delivers. Rate: $8,495 per person for a 7 night/6 day package PAGE 28
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Alaska
Alaska West
L
18-foot jet boats. For those interested in ong considered the gold standard of Alaska’s most influential getting a great taste of all that Alaska has to tent camps, Alaska West offers anglers and productive offer without footing the bill for a fly-out the best of the Kanektok River — legendmultispecies tent camp lodge, this is a proven crowd-pleaser that ary main-stem fishing for sea-bright kings, keeps anglers coming back year after year. chum, and silvers and willow-lined side channels teeming with Rate: $5,995 per person for a 7 night/6 day package wild leopard bows, char, and grayling. The Kanektok is by all standards a remarkably diverse fishery, perfectly suited to both single-hand and spey rod anglers. Their early season is dominated by spey fishing for big kings, then shifts to phenomenal multispecies fishing mid-season and finishes strong with hordes of fresh silvers. High catch rates, easy wading, and open backcasts are the norm. Alaska West is a large, comfortable tent camp set in the heart of the lower river’s finest water. Guests sleep in pairs in comfortable wall tents with carpeted floors, quality mattresses, heat and lighting. Hot showers, a large dining tent, a recreation tent, and a drying tent complete the scene. Anglers fish two per guide and move about the system in Peter Laskier and Whitney Gould enjoy a moment over the morning’s first fish. Photo: Ken Morrish
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Alaska
For those seeking value, remote locations and long hours on the water, base camps are hard to beat. Photo: Ken Morrish
Base Camps
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hile the majority of these operations will be reached by small aircraft, their fishing programs are not reliant on them. Once you are on-site these operations will employ boats to reach their fishing grounds, keeping the price down and ensuring that their anglers are on the water irrespective of weather conditions. Big Ku Lodge Big Ku is a small, strategically located six-person lodge in the heart of the Katmai region’s most famous rainbow waters. Guests enjoy jet-boat access to the fabled waters of Moraine Creek, Battle Creek, Little Ku and Big Ku. The lodge is open to fly anglers in August and September only with bear viewers enjoying June and July. To top it off, PAGE 30
just steps from the cabins all guests can take part in unlimited after-hours access to the trophy home waters of Big Ku. Rate: $5,595 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Aniak River Lodge Aniak River Lodge offers a remote, diverse and species-rich fishing program. Combining a fully outfitted tent camp with an on-river lodge, their program enables anglers to see many miles of river and offers the ability to target everything from rainbow trout to sheefish. The Aniak’s rainbows are known as gluttons for furry rodents, making this one of the very best rivers in the state for “mousing.” Rate: $5,895 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Alaska
Copper River Lodge Flowing into Lake Iliamna, the Copper is known as one of Alaska’s most beautiful and productive rainbow systems. With a completely rebuilt lodge, this classic operation is entering a new era of comfort and service. For serious rainbow hunters, this operation remains one of the most inviting values in the state. Rate: $5,400 per person for a 6 night/7 day package Western Alaska Sportfishing If remote Alaskan rainbows and Dollies are on your list, this rustic tent camp on the upper reaches of the Nushagak River might just be your place. This is a truly wild region, and
with 20 years of experience, their crew can show you what few others can. Rate: $5,195 per person per week Kenai Riverside Lodge Located on the banks of the mighty Kenai, this is a great destination for groups with a range of outdoor interests and hardcore trophy rainbow hunters alike. This operation welcomes stays of varying lengths and a wide range of angling and eco-tourism activities. It is also a perfect add-on to longer stays in the state. Rate: $2,050 per person plus tax for a 3 night/2 day package
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Alaska
Sight fishing the amazing Kulik Creek drainage. Photo: Ken Morrish
Fishing Bear Lodge
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escribing a place as unique and An intimate, family-run operation, and an opportunity to experience a perfect for fathers and sons or special as Fishing Bear Lodge remarkable diversity of true wildergroups wanting to step into the is anything but easy. At its core, this ness fly fishing. Alaskan Wilderness with both feet modest and endearing family-run Backing up against the surreal lodge offers its guests just the right amount of “roughing it” spires of the Wind River Range in the heart of southwest Alaska’s 1.6 million acre Wood-Tikchik State Park, Fishing Bear employs jet boats to fish a host of seldom-seen small streams for hearty rainbows, abundant arctic char and large surface-oriented grayling. In addition to these smaller “under the radar” systems, guests can enjoy late-night trophy rainbow sessions on the renowned Agulapak. For dry fly enthusiasts, lovers of solitude and exceptional scenery or families in search of a memorable wilderness adventure and a rewarding introduction to the wonders of wilderness fly fishing, this is a place you will want to visit more than once. Rate: $3,900 per person for a 6 night/6 day package
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Alaska
The Alaskan Peninsula J
utting westward from the mainland towards the Aleutian Islands, the wild volcanic expanse of the Alaskan Peninsula is arguably the wildest and least-traveled refuge of sea-bright salmon and steelhead in the state. Bordered on the north by Bristol Bay and the Bering Sea and on the south by the Gulf of Alaska, the Peninsula remains one of the least spoiled and hardest-to-reach places in North America. With easy wading and rich returns, few places hold more appeal for serious anadromous anglers. Sandy River Lodge This longstanding operation has a rich history of showing diehard anadromous anglers what many consider the best king salmon and steelhead fishing in the world. This truly unique and productive system has remained rich and free of commercial fishing pressure, enabling their loyal repeat guests the type of fishing most can only imagine. With a June king season and a fall steelhead season, this is a must-see lodge for serious spey anglers. Rate: $7,600 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Hoodoo Sport Fishing Lodge Widely recognized as the most comfortable and organized operation on the Alaska Peninsula, owner Rod Schuh’s Hoodoo Lodge is a testament to what vision and hard work can accomplish in an exceedingly remote location. As the original operation on the Sapsuk, Rod and his crew know this river and the surrounding region better than anyone. With several jet boats waiting at the dock, a fantastic guide staff and a highly competent leader,
this operation continues to show anglers the best king salmon, chum and silver fishing in Alaska. Rate: $7,050 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Hoodoo’s Sandy River Lodge Rod Schuh’s new facility on the lower Sandy River will enable six lucky anglers access to this incredibly special system. Located on the lower reach of the river, this camp offers strategic access to some of the most productive king water as well as the ability to jet-boat upstream to the Sandy’s best steelhead waters. Limited to six anglers per week. Rate: $7,050 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Sapsuk River Tent Camp This small six-person tent camp on the Sapsuk River is an ideal no-frills base for small groups in search of some the peninsula’s best salmon fishing. Anglers fish three per guide and are strategically located to pursue sea-bright kings, chums and silvers. Rate: $3,600-$3,800 per person for a 7 night/6 day package EPIC Alaska Wilderness Safari EPIC is a truly remote wilderness camp located on the south side of the Alaskan Peninsula. Few places offer a more picturesque backdrop or a more interesting and varied salmon fishing program. Here anglers can fish beaches, tidal bays, rivers and creeks in total solitude. These fish are as bright as they come and you can always mix things up with some incredible hikes or light tackle halibut fishing. Rate: $5,350-6,650 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
The peninsula’s amazing Sapsuk River is home to home to some of the world’s finest king, chum and silver salmon fishing. Photo: Pat Ford
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Mia Morrish searches for rolling silvers near Whale Pass Lodge. Photo: Ken Morrish
Alaska
Southeast Alaska
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outheast Alaska could be a state unto itself where the exceedingly rich and scenic marine environment often steals the show. Here couples and families find an endless array of activities to enjoy together including saltwater fishing, whale watching, ocean kayaking, hiking, and beachcombing as well as both fresh and saltwater fly fishing. Baranof Wilderness Lodge For families and couples keen on the ultimate southeast Alaskan experience, Baranof Wilderness Lodge remains a top pick. While much of their program centers on conventional saltwater fishing for salmon and halibut, they also offer great freshwater river and stream fishing for plentiful Dolly Varden and salmon. With whale watching, crabbing, hot springs and hiking this is an experience that novice anglers and experts alike will cherish. Rate: $5,050-$5,550 per person for a 5 night/5 ½ day package
Dierick’s Tsiu River Lodge Dierick’s Tsiu River Lodge has been family owned and operated since 1997. Owner Greg Dierick and his father, Ed, built the lodge after 40 years of fishing the system. Its ocean view and close proximity to the tidewaters of the Tsiu make it a top venue for sea-bright silver salmon. The Tsiu is a clear, pristine river with a shallow sandy bottom making wading safe and easy. With the river just a short ATV drive from the lodge, you will have plenty of river time. For anglers interested in high catch rates of sea-bright silvers, we can’t think of a better venue. Anglers are also welcome to take home plenty of these incredible eating salmon. Along with silver salmon, steelhead, sockeye salmon, pink salmon and Dolly Varden are all present in varying degrees throughout the season. Rate: $2,875 per person for a 5 night/5 day package
Kelp Bay Base Camp Nestled under a canopy of ancient Sitka spruce and old-growth hemlock, the Kelp Bay Base Camp offers a unique and charming setting for a truly memorable group or family getaway. Here natural bounty and opportunities abound. Guests can choose from fresh or saltwater fishing, hiking in the plush green forest, clamming, crabbing or just relaxing in solitude and watching whales pass by. The riches of the ocean serve as the base for amazing meals and the staff utilizes old-fashioned Dutch oven techniques to produce mouthwatering fresh baked goods. For parties of four to six it is hard to imagine a more sublime Southeast Alaskan experience. Rate: $4,795 per person for a 5 night/5 ½ day package The Lodge at Whale Pass The Lodge at Whale Pass is one of Alaska’s finest multi-sport lodges, located along the famed Inside Passage of Southeast Alaska. It is the perfect lodge for friends, families, couples, corporate groups, and avid anglers alike. Each day is unique at the lodge and their goal is to provide guests with a flexible program full of options. There is no set itinerary and the day is yours to do with as you please, whether it’s fishing from dawn to dusk or sea kayaking in the morning and hiking in the afternoon. Activities include whale watching, hiking, mountain biking, sea kayaking, wildlife viewing, caving, fishing, and their not-to-be-missed boat-based glacier tour. Rate: $5,995 per person for a 5 night/6 day package
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Brad Waitman Cut from Alaska’s Old Cloth
“When it comes to the fishing, the food and the flying, the buck stops right here with me and I make sure it is all as good as it can possibly be.” – Brad Waitman
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By Ken Morrish Photos by Abe Blair
BRAD WAITMAN
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nyone who has met Brad Waitman, owner of Igiugig outfitter Ron Hayes. Ron was not simply cut from the old Lodge, can tell you he is earnest, fishy, competent cloth, he was the old cloth: hard as nails, strict, uncompromisand most notably content. Like many of the Alaskan ing and not one to suffer fools. He immediately saw something greats, his aircraft is a seamless extension of himself that he in Brad, a gameness if you will, and to test it, on his third day wears as he might wear a coat or a favored pair of boots. At in Alaska, Ron dropped Brad off in Dillingham with a john age 20 after finishing his first season of guiding in Alaska, he boat, a heap of fuel, basic camping equipment, a bit of food, spent all his earnings on flight school because it was immea rifle and a radio. His first job…motor up the Nushagak, diately clear to him that the future he wanted hang a right on the Mulchatna, run up that and take a right in our northernmost state would not happen on the Koktuli until you find the lake at its headwaters without wings. But what impresses me most and set up a camp there. It was a trip of nearly 200 about Brad is his overall level of contentment, miles riddled with countless braids, gravel bars, especially during the four months he lives and works bears and logjams. “When you get to the lower out of his lodge at the outlet of Lake Iliamna. Above the Koktuli,” Ron said, “look for a garbage bag that I entrance to his modest lodge hangs a sign that reads will hang in a tree. When you see it, pull over and take Morrish Mou se “Living the Dream,” and for Brad, the sincerity of this off the prop and put on the jet foot. When you get to phrase so often used in sarcasm is profound. This is exactthe lake make camp, climb up the tallest tree you can find, set ly where he is supposed to be, and his compass has pointed the radio up and I will be in touch.” towards this very place since he was a kid. Brad’s reaction to this? Gratitude. “Ken,” he said “I went Brad grew up in San Mateo, California, and as a young to Alaska for adventure and this guy was willing to pay me teen received a great education in fly fishing in large part due $750 a month to do what I would have done for free. Ron to a local club called the Peninsula Fly Fishers. In high school, would check in with me on the radio, see how the fishing he got his first dream job working part time at his local fly was, and sporadically fly guests in to fish with me. I lived shop, the Angler’s Emporium, where he taught fly-tying and mostly off of fish and bush meat and it was a good time. I eventually met longtime Deschutes outfitter and guide Galand spent three great seasons working for Ron, and he was a huge Haas. Haas liked Brad’s passion and can-do attitude so he influence on me.” By this time Brad had become a bonafide offered the 15-year-old a job rowing boats and setting up his Alaskan. He would guide hunters in April and May, then camps. The first time he was to run Whitehorse rapids on his fly anglers in June and July, and then often head back into own, in a fully loaded gear boat, there was a much lighter and the bush to guide hunters from August through October. A more maneuverable boat wrapped squarely on Oh Shit Rock. few seasons later while working for Bill Sims at Newhalen Brad said to me, “I felt sick and I had to pull over and take Lodge, Brad was sent down the lake to pick up a bottle of gin a nap and when I finally ran it and got through the worst of from neighboring Valhalla Lodge. While there he noticed a it, I bent over and threw up right in the bottom of my boat!” photo of a young woman on the wall…the owner’s daughAs Brad neared high school graduation, Galand gave Brad the ter, Brenda. That stuck and the next year he went to work following sage advice: “Brad, if you like the guiding lifestyle, there, in part hoping to meet and become better acquainted your future is in Alaska.” with Brenda. It took two seasons for Brenda to show up at the lodge, and on their first date, in true bush form, Brad North to Alaska took her out to shoot cans. The rest is history and they spent In June of 1984 at the age of 20, Brad found himself face to the next 15 years together working at Valhalla, raising their face with his new employer, the legendary hunting and fishing children and making plans for their future.
“Above the entrance to his modest lodge hangs a sign that reads ‘Living the Dream,’ and for Brad, the sincerity of this phrase so often used in sarcasm is profound.” 1-800 -552-2729
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BRAD WAITMAN
A Place of Their Own
Brad about his favorite rivers in the state, he pops off with, “heck, they are both right here, the Kvichak and Lower In February 2008, it was 26 below zero when Brad landed Talarik. One is at the doorstep and the other is ten minutes in Igiugig, borrowed a snow machine and skittered across the by plane.” frozen outlet of Lake Iliamna to first view what would later When I ask him why these two rivers stand out for become his lodge. Through the frigid blue twilight, Brad him he had the following to say. “Well, if you could tell the place needed some work but when it like catching really big hot rainbows in small came to what really mattered, namely the locawater, it is hard not to see Lower Talarik as tion and size of Larry Todd’s old operation, the greatest river going. I have spent an awful he knew he was on to something. Not only Morrish lot of time there and up by ‘the rock’ and I have had was this facility located on the Kvichak (one of Brad’s Sc u l pin more amazing days of fishing there than I can count. two favorite systems) but it was located right on the Back in the day I flew there from Valhalla Lodge all the time very best run on the river, where Alaska’s largest lake tailsbut if it looked at all busy I would just fly a bit further to the out and turns into one of the greatest trophy rainbow sysKvichak and typically have the place more or less to myself. tems in the world. The natives call this place Igiugig, which What is great about the Kvichak is that it’s big and it’s tricky. in Yupik means “like a throat that swallows water.” By all Most guides are lost on it and never really understand it, but accounts, the river-right run just outside the front door of his if you break it down, there is no question that it is in a class lodge is one of the longest, sexiest and most productive pieces by itself. It has incredible rainbow fishing, great dry fly sight of trophy fly water in all of Alaska if not the world. fishing for grayling, the best sockeye fishing in the world and Then and still now, Brad’s Igiugig Lodge isn’t an architecpretty darn good silver fishing as well. I know it as well as tural eye-popper but rather a modest place with guts of gold. anyone, and I love it.” “Ken,” he tells me, “in many ways I am one of the last real owner operators. Most of the lodges around me are backed Fishing Program by big investors but here it is my wife and me and one other Igiguig Lodge’s fishing program is a unique hybrid of fly-out guide and that is exactly the way we want it. When it comes to fishing and home water fishing. Brad likes to host up to six the fishing, the food and the flying, the buck stops right here anglers per week and employs two guides in addition to himwith me and I make sure it is all as good as it can possibly be.” self. The typical program has Brad flying out each day in his And that is, in a nutshell, why we like sending folks to Brad. Cessna 206 with two or sometimes three anglers. In this case He is passionate about what he does, incredibly competent he will be both the pilot and the guide and the plane will and most importantly, he and Brenda care. always be near if you want to change locations. The following Location, Location, Location day there will be a rotation and the fly out anglers will fish the Kvichak by jet boat and so on. Throughout the course of a While the outlet of Alaska’s largest lake may not be the week this will mean that anglers will fish the home waters 3 to most remote location in the state, for anyone who loves big 4 days and fly out 2 to 3 times. rainbows and salmon it is hard not to consider it the most On fly out days you might park the plane and spend the strategic. The variety of world-class systems reachable within entire day walking and wading a river, or you might land at 35 minutes flying time is exhaustive: The Nushagak, Koktuli, a location where Brad has a boat stashed and either use the Tazimna, Newhalen, Iliamna, Gibraltar, Copper, both Talariks, boat for transportation between runs or fish from the boat, American, Brooks, Moraine, Funnel, Big Ku, Little Ku, Battle, depending on the system. On your home water days, there and Kulik represent some of the better known. When I ask
“By all accounts, the river-right run just outside the front door of his lodge is one of the longest, sexiest and most productive pieces of trophy fly water in all of Alaska if not the world.” PAGE 38
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Top: Brad and a guest with a nice rainbow; landing a fish on a crystal clear braid of the Kvichak. Middle: Taking the short trip from the lodge to the aircraft and boats. Bottom: The type of rainbow that has-552-2729 made the Kvichak famous; an aerial view of the lodge. Photos:PAGE Abe Blair 1-800 39
BRAD WAITMAN
Wow! If you guys consider this to be “modest accommodations” and “down-to-earth”, then I know that I have found paradise. Lamb chops, prime rib, crab and filets, crème brulee, chocolate soufflé and NY cheesecake. Fresh linens every day, laundry service and a mug of hot coffee with a wake-up knock each morning. If it was any better than this, I would have felt terribly uncomfortable. Point is, the personalized service was purely top-shelf. I fished at least one morning or evening every day off Brad’s beach, astounding…the Kvichak offers a totally insane fishery. - J. Merrifield, PA
will be options that vary depending on the time of year and guest’s specific interests. In the early season the swing fishing for spey and single hand anglers can be incredible. This is largely a wade fishing cast and step game and die-hard anglers can fish well into the wee hours of the night right in front of the lodge. During the mid-season when lots of salmon are spawning on the Kvichak, your guide might spend the majority of time strategically positioning the boat for long, drag-free indicator drifts through the most likely feeding lanes. The important thing to know is that Brad not only has a vast amount of experience, but a vast number of distinct angling options. Spey fishing for big Kvichak rainbows and massive Nushagak Kings, walk and wade sight fishing for egg-munching rainbows, swinging flies for migrating schools of chrome-bright sockeye salmon, stripping flies for supercharged silvers and chums, mousing for big pike, and sight casting dries for big grayling that rarely see anglers are all great options depending on the time of year.
Accommodations & Meals Ask Brad about his lodge and he will tell you the following. “My place isn’t the fanciest but the steaks we serve will be as good as any in the state and our halibut will have been hand-caught by my family and processed a month before our fishing season opens.” If you need a place that comes with bragging rights, keep moving but if you are after a place that delivers a really big bang for the buck and prides itself first and foremost on the quality of their fishing program and family-style service, this is all that and more. Anglers stay in double occupancy cabins with full private bathrooms, 24-hour power, heat, and daily maid service. For us at Fly Water, Brad and Brenda run one of those special places that unexpectedly won our total confidence. Sure, it’s about safety and service and a deep understanding of the local fisheries, but it is also about who the Waitmans are: wholesome, hard-working and 100% hands-on. So when you visit their team at the outlet of Lake Iliamna be sure to get your photo taken beneath the sign reading “Living the Dream,” because for both you and the Waitmans, it will be the case.
Notes
Travel: Anglers will overnight in Anchorage on Friday night and take a non-scheduled air taxi flight into the lodge on Saturday. Season: Second week of June through early October. Capacity: Six anglers Essential Tackle: A favorite 6 or 7-weight rod with a weight forward floating line. Top Flies: This varies depending on time of year but it is always a good idea to have some big black leeches, some sculpin, the dreaded purple egg-sucking leech and a mouse or two. 2016 Rates: $6,500 per person plus air charter fees for 7 night/6 day package.
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Top: Tight to a hot one on the home waters. Middle: Living large at the lodge. Bottom: Braid Waitman enjoying another day at the office. Photos: Abe Blair 1-800 -552-2729 PAGE 41
British Columbia
Jim Allen, Brian Gies and the late, great bear-dog Bowser on the Kispiox. Photo: Ken Morrish
Smithers & Upper Skeena Region any towns claim to be the “Steelhead Capital of the World,” but despite not making the claim, Smithers BC deserves the moniker. With the Bulkley flowing right through it, Smithers is the hub from which many great adventures into some of the Skeena’s most sought-after tributaries begin, including the Kispiox, the Babine, the Morice and the Sustut.
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Bulkley Canyon Trips
Frontier Farwest
Bear Claw Lodge
Located between Smithers and Telkwa, Derek Botchford’s Frontier Farwest Lodge is one of the most diverse and well-run operations in the region. Anglers will spend three days fishing the Bulkley out of the main lodge and three days fishing the upper reaches of the Morice out of their second lodge. An option to overnight in one of the remote Bulkley canyon tent camps is also available. With top-notch food, accommodations and guides this is an experience not to be missed. Rate: $6,700 per person for a 7 night/7 day package
Located on the upper Kispiox, the Allens run an operation that combines the finest accommodations in the region with downhome family-style hospitality and a crew of savvy, hard-working guides. Typically anglers will spend four days floating the Kispiox in rafts, one day jet boating the Skeena and one day jet boating on the lower Bulkley. This is a great program and a great opportunity to swing your fly in front of some of BC’s largest wild steelhead. Rate: $6,745 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package
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For hearty anglers that like long hours on the water and roughing it a bit, Frontier Farwest offers six-day jet boat trips for parties of three. Anglers spend two nights and three days fishing out of two separate wall-tent camps located in the heart of some of the Bulkley’s best water. Rate: $5,600 per person for a 6 day jet boat camp
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British Columbia
Babine Norlakes Steelhead Camp
Skeena Meadows
Not far beneath Babine Lake and the weir, Billy Labonte’s operation is a hardcore steelheader’s dream. With literally dozens of ultra-productive runs, seasoned guides, a cozy camp and an unsurpassed passion for chasing the huge steelhead that call the river home, this operation has it all. Rate: $6,795 per person for a 6 ½ day/6 night package
This unique operation offers deluxe “glamping” accommodations, incredible meals and over five miles of private access to self-guided fishing on the Skeena. Explore and fish their remarkable property with the provided ATV and also enjoy the region’s finest pheasant hunting. This is a great hub from which to fish the region and a great add-on to longer trips in the region. Rate: $325 per person plus taxes per night
Suskeena & Steelhead Valhalla The Sustut River is one of the most remote, scenic and least competitive trophy steelhead rivers in all of BC. It is also home to these two exceptional lodges, both of which share very similar fishing programs ensuring that you will never be racing the other operation for prime runs. With some of the cleanest water in the Skeena system and a legitimate shot at steelhead in the 20 to 30-pound class, these wilderness lodges epitomize what BC steelhead fishing is all about. Rate: $6,700 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package
Bulkley Day Trips: For those interested in adding days to their existing trips, please contact us about setting up day trips on the Bulkley with Denise Maxwell and Keith Douglas. Rate: $600 per person plus taxes per day
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British Columbia
Boats and rods at the ready in front of the the Hilton’s main camp. Photo: Brian Gies
Silver Hilton Steelhead Lodge
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remaining in North America. The Hilton’s idely considered to be the finest The world’s most combination of large fish, pristine wilderness and most exclusive steelhead fly sought-after and setting, world-class guides, limited fishing fishing lodge in the world, the Silver Hilton exclusive wilderness pressure and remarkable amenities has also offers jet-boat access to more than twenty steelhead lodge made it one of the hardest lodges in the miles of pristine trophy steelhead water. world to get into. Babine River steelhead range from eight pounds to over 30 Silver Hilton Lodge features two fully staffed five-star pounds and are among the purest strain of wild steelhead steelhead lodges located approximately seven miles apart. The Main Camp feature four double occupancy cabins and caters to eight rods per week on the two lower beats. The upper Triple Header camp offers single occupancy rooms and takes four rods per week on the upper reach. Anglers fish four per guide at both camps and rotate through most of the beats, ensuring a great variety of water and ample solitude streamside. Due to a high rate of repeat clientele, availability is typically limited to early and late in the season. All packages include round-trip, private helicopter transportation from Smithers, BC to the lodge. Rate: $5,843-$9,123 per person for a 7 night/7 day package plus $250 to Save the Babine Foundation PAGE 44
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British Columbia
Skeena River Lodge
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riginally from the Netherlands, lodge and anglers prepare their own breakfasts before Where incredible guides owner Jeroen Wohe is as passionate, the guides pick them up in the morning. For and incredible value skilled and committed to chasing bright those looking for the highest level of guiding meet streamside sea-run fish as anyone you will ever meet. He is without breaking the bank, this is the place. equally serious about delivering a great product at a reasonable Rate: $3,800-$4,400 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/ rate. Located in the greater Terrace region, Jeroen and his crew 6 day package fish spring steelhead, summer chinook and fall steelhead. In September and October his original Skeena River Lodge and Nass Basecamp his Nass Basecamp run simultaneously. Located on a secluded lake that feeds into a little-known steelSkeena River Lodge Located 15 minutes upstream of Terrace, Skeena River Lodge is a new, understated hub from which to fish the fabled waters of the Copper, Skeena, Kalum and Kitimat. Headed by Jeroen, the lodge comfortably takes four or six anglers depending on the week. Home-style dinners are prepared by his charming wife Mannon
head river, the Nass Basecamp is the newest and most underthe-radar of our BC steelhead offerings. Here, anglers will focus on the scenic and prolific waters of the Bell Irving as well as the lesser-known dry fly waters of their home system. Up to four anglers enjoy single occupancy rooms in a modest lakeside cabin. Rate: $4,200 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package
Owner and head guide Jeroen Wohe with a coveted 30-pound steelhead. Photo: Skeena River Lodge
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British Columbia
A brutish spring steelhead awaiting release on the Kitimat. Photo: Ken Morrish
Terrace & Lower Skeena Region
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he greater Terrace region on the lower Skeena is, in many ways, the ultimate anadromous angling hub offering access to sea-bright steelhead and salmon virtually year-round. With a multitude of rivers including the main-stem Skeena, Kitimat, Kalum and Copper as well as numerous lesser-known systems, this region represents an unbeatable combination of value and opportunity for serious spey anglers.
Spey Lodge It is hard to find anyone who has met Wally Faetz and not immediately liked him or his operation. Located near Terrace, Spey Lodge offers the finest accommodations in the region and near year-round fishing for spring steelhead, chinook, and summer steelhead. In addition to the spacious, well-appointed main lodge, Wally has a remote coastal camp for fishing kings and supercharged chums, and Boundary PAGE 46
Lodge on the Bell Irving for chasing steelhead in September and October. Rate: CAD $5,450 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/ 6 day package Skeena Wilderness Charters Veteran guide Stan Doll has guided the best waters in the Terrace area for more than forty years. When it comes to knowing where to be and when, few can compete with the trove of experience Stan and his sons offer. With a casual home-style lodge and an enviable arsenal of classified waters permits (including the Copper), Stan can put folks in front of big fish literally year-round. For the ultimate in remote wilderness fishing, Stan also offers an array of sought-after fly-out fishing options for spring steelhead. Rate: $5,000 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package
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British Columbia
Skeena Spey Skeena Spey is a wonderful new riverside lodge headed by renowned casting instructor Brian Niska of Whistler, BC. Brian has a great team of guides who pride themselves on putting folks onto big, bright fish as well as improving their guests’ angling and casting skills. Their fishing program focuses primarily on the main Skeena, home to the largest fly-friendly salmon and steelhead in the world. They offer deluxe A-frame cabins with single accommodations and stays of varying length available. Unguided freelance anglers are also welcome and can fish their productive, unclassified home waters on the weekends. Rate: CAD $5,400 per person plus taxes for a 6 night/ 5 day package Bulkley Base Camps Derek Botchford, owner of Frontier Farwest Lodge, will offer four weeks of specialized king fishing in the greater Terrace
region. These trips will include time at remote coastal camps targeting kings in truly wild seldom-fished regions. These flex trips will have folks moving around to where the fishing is best and include all flying time in the package price. A truly unique experience for the adventuresome! Rate: $6,800 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Nicholas Dean Lodge Nicholas Dean Lodge is an all-around great choice for anglers looking to experience the many seasons, species and unique systems of the greater Terrace region. With seasoned guides and wonderful meals and accommodations at Pioneer Lodge, this is a great operation in the heart of what many consider to be the ultimate year-round anadromous region in the world. Rate: CAD $3,595-$4,750 per person plus taxes for a 6 night/5 day package
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British Columbia
In terms of jaw-dropping scenery and supercharged steelhead, nothing compares with the Dean. Photo: Ken Morrish
BC West
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ow does one decide between a week The only place where The lodge sleeps eight anglers in on the upper Dean or the lower simple double occupancy cabins and adventuresome anglers Dean? Which is more scenic? Where are has a long legacy of serving incrediaccess the best of both the the fish the hottest and hardest to land? ble meals. Their season begins with a upper and lower Dean Where do they rise best to dries? Where focus on kings in late June and ends the do the fish stack when the water is high or low? These are third week of August. tough questions, and as the only operation that enables access Rate: $7,295 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package both above and beneath the famous falls, BC West may well be your answer. BC West’s guests get the best of both worlds and fish half of their days guided beneath the falls via jet boat and the other half self-guided above the falls using personal four-wheelers to access prime runs. Equally impressive is BC West’s willingness to go the extra mile and create a split-day fishing program where anglers fish from dawn to lunch, then return to camp for a gourmet meal and a siesta before heading out in the late afternoon to fish until dark. By all standards, this is a rigorous and rewarding routine best suited to experienced anglers with an independent streak. PAGE 48
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British Columbia
The Dean River
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or those who have not had the good fortune to fish the Dean River, others’ stories of hard takes, hissing bellies of line, wild leaps, and the relentless runs of these “super” steelhead are admittedly hard to compete with, especially when compounded with a setting that is one of North America’s most impressive. We work with the best operations on the river and look forward to helping you find the one that best suits your needs.
propane lights, a wood stove and cold running water. Electricity is available in the cabins while the camp generator is running. The lodge contains shower facilities, dining room and a lounge. Guests will enjoy hearty home-style meals in a family atmosphere. For the best of what the magical upper Dean has to offer, Hodson’s holds the key. Rate: $6,890-$7,388 per person for a 7 night/7 day package Kimsquit Bay Lodge
Hodson’s For generations the Hodson family and the Dean River have been inseparable. Dean River pioneer and founder of the family operation, Daryl Hodson, passed the torch to his son Danny and now Danny’s sons are also working the river as guides for this legendary upper river lodge. In addition to the main camp, Hodson’s also has a rustic upper camp located upstream of the main lodge. Most anglers who visit during the heart of the season will get between one to three days at the upper camp and will be flown in by veteran helicopter pilot Danny Hodson. The water surrounding the upper camp may be some of the finest trophy steelhead dry fly water in the world. Their cabins sleep two guests and are equipped with
Recently purchased by Jeff Hickman, Kimsquit Bay Lodge (formerly Blackwell’s) is the Dean’s only lodge that concentrates exclusively on the lower river beneath the falls. Here anglers stake out the best runs on the lower river and successfully target the brightest and hardest-to-handle steelhead and kings in the world. If you are looking for a chance to tangle with sea-liced fish fresh from the sea and are okay with hooking fish that might leave you shaking and beaten, this is the place. In June, anglers target the river’s supercharged kings and as July progresses the ratio shifts to primarily steelhead. With great guides and some of the most spectacular scenery in the world, this is a one-of-a-kind angling experience. Rate: $6,150-$7,150 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/ 6 day package
Longtime Dean guide Steve Morrow with a godlike lower river specimen. Photo: Kimsquit Bay Lodge
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Pacific Northwest
Fly Water’s Brian Gies casts a switch rod for winter steelhead on the lower Rogue. Photo: Ken Morrish
Steelhead F
or many, steelheading defines the Pacific Northwest angling experience. With a wide range of angling styles and a colorful array of skilled guides, the waters of Oregon and California offer more quality steelheading options than most realize. At Fly Water, we know these fisheries and the best guides like the back of our hand. With everything from walk-and-wade day trips to deluxe multi-day river camps, we can build an itinerary that will show you what we love most about the Pacific Northwest and its remarkable steelhead fisheries. Rogue River The Rogue River is one of the most consistent and approachable steelhead fisheries in the lower 48 states. Regardless of fly fishing technique, the upper Rogue has water for everyone. Whether you like to drop heavily-weighted nymphs into dark slots under a strike indicator or ply the surface with a riffle hitched skater, we are confident the Rogue River could be the setting for your next favorite fishing story. Rate: Day Trips – $495 per day for 1 or 2 anglers
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North Umpqua River Oregon’s North Umpqua River is the quintessential Cascadian river — steep, swift, crystal clear and incredibly beautiful. It is an American classic that has captured the souls of countless anglers and drawn them back year after year to test their skills against one of the most challenging and rewarding races of steelhead in the world. Split-shift days on the water entail sometimes-difficult wading and multiple trips up and down the riverbank. Paired with tasteful accommodations at the Steamboat Inn, this makes a great vacation for anglers and non-anglers alike. Rate: Day Trips – $500 per day for 1 or 2 anglers. Steamboat Inn – $1,355 per person for a 4 night/3 day package based on double occupancy Willamette River Often overshadowed by its more famous neighbors, the Middle Fork of the Willamette River has quietly been gaining a reputation as a destination for serious steelhead fly anglers. With countless miles of easily waded holding water perfectly suited to swinging flies and annual summer steelhead returns in the tens of thousands, the Middle Fork is one of the most productive urban fly fisheries in the lower 48 states. Rate: Day Trips – $450 per day for 1 or 2 anglers
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Klamath River The Klamath is arguably California’s most remote and least-visited steelhead venue. We are proud to offer three great options in different areas of the Klamath, beginning in August and extending through December. The first option is fishing the lower river by jet boat and overnighting at a simple riverside camp. These three-day trips begin in August and can produce high catch rates of adult steelhead, half-pounders and Chinook salmon, many of which are caught on spey rods and floating lines. Rate: $1,750 per person for a 5 night/4 day package The second option is Jefferson Flywater, a small high-value operation situated on the middle river downstream of Happy Camp, California. Guests stay in canvas-walled tents on the river just steps away from productive water. Their fishing program utilizes drift boats for transportation with anglers getting out of the boat to swing flies on prime un-crowded runs. Rate: $1,800 per person for a 4 night/3 day package Spey Water West From mid-February through early May, the rivers surrounding the greater Tillamook Bay region on the northern Oregon coast transform into some of the most productive and seductive winter steelhead rivers in North America. Structurally they are a “swing” fisherman’s paradise and the quarry is almost always sea-bright, wild and willing to chase a well-swung fly. For anyone interested
in perfecting the art of spey casting while fishing for some of the world’s finest winter steelhead, this is a spectacular venue. Lodging options include hotels and inns in Cannon Beach. Rate: $3,100 for a 5 night/4 day package for 2 anglers. Additional packages available Clackamas River The Clackamas River begins as a high alpine stream in the northern Oregon Cascade Mountains before it descends over eighty miles to the west where it eventually meets the tidally influenced Willamette River in Oregon City. Known locally as the Clack, it drains the forests, springs and snowmelt of the western Cascadian ridgeline between Mt. Hood and Mt. Jefferson. The source of its most northern fork is less than ten miles from the house that guide Jeff Hickman grew up in. This cold, clear, nutrient-rich water is the perfect habitat for many fish species, both resident and anadromous. Rate: Day Trips – $500-$595 per day for 1 or 2 anglers Olympic Peninsula The combination of the Olympic Mountain’s breathtaking landscape and healthy returns of trophy steelhead make Washington’s Olympic Peninsula a remarkable angling venue. Rivers like the Hoh, Sol Duc, Bogachiel, Queets, and Calawah remain a true stronghold of wild trophy winter steelhead. For this special fishery we work with seasoned experts savvy to multiple methods of fly fishing. Rate: Day Trips – $450-$550 per day plus taxes
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Pacific Northwest
Speywater Lodge & Floats
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f the name of this lodge seems biased, wait until you meet the guides! Located on the Grande Ronde River, near Troy, Oregon, this low-key, high-value operation is where some of the Northwest’s finest steelheaders and spey casters congregate for a month of guiding and instruction. Renowned spey instructor Scott O’Donnell heads a crew of diehard steelhead guides who love the Ronde and the steelhead it sustains. As much a spey casting and fishing school as a hard-charging guiding operation, this is the best place we know of to learn the art of spey casting and improve your swing fishing skills. Now offering three distinct options on different sections of river and encompassing multiple seasons, Speywater Lodge continues to improve and impress. The Grande Ronde is a Snake River tributary and is considered one of the best late season steelhead rivers in the Pacific Northwest. Throughout the month of October, the Ronde is as good a dry fly and greased line fishery there is. As the season progresses and water temperatures drop in November, anglers spend more time fly fishing light sink tips. The fly fishing can remain excellent through late November and later if water conditions permit. Grande Ronde steelhead are known for their willingness to move to a fly and range from 5 to 14 pounds, with the average fish typically weighing in around 7 pounds. Rafts are employed to access water, but all fishing is done while wading. Speywater Lodge Located on a productive stretch of the Grande Ronde upstream of Troy, OR, this comfortable lodge is the ultimate hub from which to fish the Ronde in October and November. Guests stay in double occupancy rooms with shared baths, and meals
are eaten in the main lodge. Anglers will depart the lodge each day with their guide to float a different section of the river, getting out to wade prime runs. Rate: $1,980 per person for a 4 night/3 day package Steelhead Floats For those who want to maximize their time on the water, this multi-day float trip may be the best option. These four-day float trips launch twice per week in October and access the lower Grande Ronde in Washington. Deluxe camps are set up on great home pools and move each day. These mobile river camps consist of large stand-up tents complete with cots and vestibules for every two anglers, and a 12 x 14 foot wall tent for dining. Each trip now includes a night’s stay at Speywater Lodge on the evening of arrival. Optional day trips on the Oregon section near the lodge can be arranged before the float trip starts. Rate: $2,250 per person for a 4 night/4 day package Smallmouth Bass Floats New for the 2015 season, Speywater Lodge is offering three-day float trips targeting smallmouth bass. Beginning in early June and continuing through the summer, these trips are sure to please anglers of all skill levels and experience. The early months of June and July offer big water and large bass that can often run three to four pounds. Once the water drops in late July, the catching remains good for bass in the one to two-pound range, providing exceptional sport for the entire family. Rate: $1,700 per person for a 3 night/3 day package
When it comes to learning the art of steelhead fishing and spey casting, this is the team you want to be with. Photo: Walter Hodges/tenandtwomagazine.com
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Deschutes Upper Deschutes Steelhead Float This stretch can fish very well late in the season as steelhead continue to stack in the upper river. October can be busy so consider an early November trip. Consistent, all-day fishing and cold nights around the campfire define this trip. Rate: $1,800-$2,400 per person for a 3 night/4 day float trip. Additional packages available.
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he Deschutes River is a rugged desert gem and one of the most captivating systems in the American West. With 100 miles of water, a 12-month season and distinct trout and steelhead fisheries it is one of those places that cannot be completely understood or experienced in a single lifetime. The Deschutes is a big river and is rich with insects. The famous stonefly hatch begins in mid-May and lasts around three weeks, depending on weather and water conditions. June and early July is often the best dry fly season of the entire year. Anglers that really enjoy playing the “match the hatch” game should focus on this time of year, as a typical day may involve fishing various cycles of three or four different hatches. The “sleeper” trout season on the Deschutes is September and October. During this time October caddis, regular caddis and blue winged olives can provide some excellent dry fly opportunities. To add to this, fishing pressure is almost non-existent because everyone is fishing for steelhead so you can see why dedicated trout fishermen covet this secret season. Summer steelhead season on the Deschutes lasts from August through November. Like most summer steelhead, Deschutes fish tend to be particularly responsive to surface presentations during low light hours. This makes for long days in August and September. Anglers should expect to fish hard from first light until lunchtime. After lunch, most guides will relax for a few hours before heading back out in the late afternoon and fishing hard until dark. This schedule maximizes floating line opportunities and provides enough rest time to recharge. All told, it remains one of the most interesting summer steelhead rivers in the Pacific Northwest and a mecca for spey anglers.
Day Trips Based out of Maupin, Oregon, these trips give traveling anglers access to approximately 40 miles of river. Day trips for trout are available year-round but are most productive from May through October. Steelhead are generally in the Maupin area by mid-August and are available through November. Lodging is available at one of three local hotels/lodges and dinners can be found in town. Rate: $450-$700 per day Lower Deschutes Steelhead Float This is in many ways the classic Deschutes multi-day steelhead trip. It can be done in three days but is best suited for four. The peak season for this trip is mid-August through October. Rate: $1,800-$2,400 per person for a 3 night/4 day float trip. Additional packages available. Lower Deschutes Steelhead Jet Boat Whether you are interested in single-day trips or multi-day camping trips, it is hard to beat the guided steelhead jet boat program on the lower river. Our favorite trip is a 3-night/3day staying at a riverside camp. You will be picked up by your guide late afternoon on the first day and return to the boat ramp midday on departure day. These trips will show you a lot of great water and maximize your fishing time. Rate: $1,500 per person for a 3 night/3 day camp trip. Additional packages available.
Upper Deschutes Trout Float These multi-day trips start at either Warm Springs or Trout Creek and will take off the river in Maupin. Consider this trip anytime from early May through October. Keep in mind that July and August can be brutally hot. September brings cooler nights and much less pressure. This trip can be completed in three days but our recommendation is to give yourself four. Rate: $1,800-$2,400 per person for a 3 night/4 day float trip. Additional packages available.
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Saltwater
Christmas Island
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he fact that virtually every fly angler in Experience the world’s water fishing for tuna, wahoo and trevally is North America has heard of Christmas most consistent year-round also available. Island is far from coincidence. Amidst the Christmas Island Outfitters is a small operfishing for bonefish and vast inventory of the world’s saltwater desation taking a maximum of twelve anglers per trevally with skilled, tinations, Christmas Island is a unique and week. The lodge is located halfway between warm-hearted guides. natural masterpiece that magically combines the airport and London on a secluded section all the elements critical to fly fishing success. Endless hard sand of beach. Accommodations consist of three split level buildings, flats, remarkable numbers of cruising bonefish and trevally and each with four separate units. Each room is configured to house two consistent year-round weather await all who visit this unique atoll. anglers and each has a private bathroom. Rooms are very simple Guides at Christmas Island Outfitters have been handpicked and clean and feature ample space for your gear. Top floor rooms for their overall level of experience and skill, calmness under look out over the vast Pacific and offer a refreshing ocean breeze. pressure, and instructional abilities. Each day anglers will depart Each unit is equipped with A/C, screened windows, fans, a small via truck or catamaran for the day’s fishing. Virtually all fishing refrigerator, and simple plastic table and chairs. Meals are very basic entails sight casting to visible fish while wading in shallow water. and incorporate fresh seafood (snapper, tuna and wahoo, lobster, Christmas Island’s plentiful bonefish average 2 to 4 pounds, mantis shrimp), chicken, pork, rice, pasta and sometimes steak. though each week presents numerous opportunities for larger Whether you are an experienced saltwater angler or a specimens in the 5 to 10-pound class. The guides at Christmas novice keen on honing your flats fishing skills, Christmas Island Island Outfitters are also among the atoll’s most skilled and pasOutfitters offers the finest and most intimate angling experience sionate trevally hunters and love nothing more than to share with the island has to offer. their guests the thrill of hooking these monsters. Excellent blue Rate: $2,470 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Head guide Biita Kairoi helps Fly Water’s Brian Gies hoist a hefty one. Photo: Dylan Rose
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Chrysta Rose with a gorgeous Los Roques bonefish. Photo: Dylan Rose
Sight Cast, Los Roques
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attractive fares and reasonable itineraries. he Los Roques archipelago is located Wade fish for big For those clients who have been able to work approximately 80 miles north of the bones while enjoying through these challenges with us, they have Venezuelan mainland and remains one of our fine meals and boutique found hordes of large, aggressive bonefish favorite locales for burly bonefish, unbelievaccommodations inhabiting pristine and unpressured flats. able beauty and a fantastic overall experience. For travel-savvy anglers willing to look past the press and Offering a plethora of incredible wade fishing opportunities, for those willing to work through some minor hurdles in airfare, its equatorial location provides consistently good weather one of the very best bonefish locales in the world awaits. year-round. The outfitter, Sight Cast, is second-to-none and Rate: $4,250 per person for a 7 night/6 day package consistently provides highly skilled guides, top-notch service, charming accommodations and world-class cuisine. Recent political turmoil in Venezuela has caused much consternation with anglers considering a trip to this part of the world. Although news headlines remain a concern, the reality of the situation is that trips to Los Roques are completely insulated from the unrest of the interior. The team at Sight Cast are masters of logistics and they take their guests’ well-being very seriously. Accordingly, their team of extremely organized and experienced transfer professionals have provided safe transfers for the last 20 years without incident. Additionally, cost prohibitive flights from the United States to Venezuela have been a major hurdle in recent months, but thankfully at this writing several airlines are again offering
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Sunrise and calm seas, Bair’s Lodge, Andros. Photo: Dylan Rose
Bahamas
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hen it comes to spectacular bonefishing opportunities, outstanding all-inclusive lodges, skilled guides and a wide range of varied flats environments, the Bahamas still set the bar. The below operations are among our favorite and represent a dynamic cross-section of world-class Bahamian outfitters. Mangrove Cay Club Mangrove Cay Club was built by Liz and Alton Bain from the ground up to be one thing: a world-class bonefishing lodge. It’s one of the few destinations that brings all the crucial elements together — location, management, amenities, guides, equipment, cuisine and spectacular flats fishing. With characteristically short runs to some of the most famous trophy bonefish flats in the world, it is easy to make a case that this is the Bahamas’ premier flats fishing lodge. Rate: $5,200 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package Bair’s Lodge Strategically located midway between the South Bight and Curly Cut Cays of South Andros, Bair’s Lodge provides easy access PAGE 56
to some of the most remote and productive flats in all of the Bahamas. Luxury accommodations, fantastic locally inspired cuisine and some of Andros Island’s most experienced guides are just the start. Positioned on a beautiful white sand beach, this location easily caters to spouses keen on relaxing in a Bahamian paradise. Anglers fish from the bow of 18-foot Dolphin skiffs or wade the famed and prolific bonefish flats of southern Andros. Rate: $5,050-$5,350 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Mars Bay Lodge Make no mistake, Mars Bay Lodge is a no-frills operation that has one purpose: to place you squarely on some of the world’s most productive bonefish flats at a price you can afford. Owner and operator Bill Howard puts it best when he says, “We are not a high-end fancy resort. The napkins are paper. You’ll not find a mint on your pillow and you will not be greeted at the dock with a hot steaming towel to wipe your brow. You can grab your own beer and mix your own drink the way you like it. The lodge has a laid-back vibe but don’t let that mislead you. Everything goes off on time and as scheduled.” Positioned as the
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southernmost operation on the island, this small eight-angler lodge provides unparalleled access to the hallowed bonefish grounds of “The South.” Rate: $3,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Deep Water Cay Deep Water Cay was founded in 1958 as a world-class bonefishing destination. The small private island of Deep Water Cay is located off the east end of Grand Bahama Island and offers a luxurious jumping-off point for an expansive fishery. Deep Water Cay offers easy access to pristine flats, lots of leeward hideaways and a tremendous population of bonefish including some that are just plain enormous! In the spring of 2014 a new lodge record was set with an incredible fish that tipped the Boga grip scale at 14.6 pounds. Deep Water Cay remains a thriving and sought-after destination that many anglers visit multiple times a year. It has withstood the test of time and continues to offer anglers an amazing luxury fishing experience paired with first-class service and amenities galore. Rate: $5,353-$5,710 per person for a 7 night/6 day package H2O Bonefishing Located in Freeport, Grand Bahama near the Port Lucaya Marina, H2O Bonefishing couples premier angling for large bonefish with a tropical resort rich in amenities. Guests stay at the beautiful Pelican Bay Resort complete with a large pool, hot tub and outdoor bar. Those that prefer not to fish enjoy the area’s shopping scene, casinos, restaurants, tourist activities
and pristine white-sand beaches. Anglers fish the expansive and remote flats of Grand Bahama’s northern shoreline. After fishing guests enjoy the lively atmosphere and endless fish stories told in the Bonefish Bar, then head out to the marina where they enjoy many options for drinks and dinner on their own. Rate: $3,995 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Eva’s Bonefishing Lodge Eva’s Bonefishing Lodge is a beautiful new operation located near Staniard Creek on North Andros Island in the Bahamas. With a maximum capacity of six anglers, this lodge offers an intimate and relaxed family-run atmosphere. Whether you prefer to wade the flats or fish from the boat, anglers will have opportunities to cast at large solitary bonefish or smaller schooling fish depending on conditions and preferences. Eva’s is receiving a lot of early critical acclaim and we are eager and excited to bring them into Fly Water’s fold. Rate: $4,700 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Abaco Lodge With access to nearly 400 square miles of pristine flats and the famed Marls of Abaco beginning a stone’s throw from their front door, Abaco Lodge is a top-tier destination for bonefishing enthusiasts the world over. Tasteful yet understated luxury define this attractive and well-appointed lodge. With direct commercial flights to Marsh Harbor from Florida, anglers enjoy easy access to Abaco Lodge and some of the best bonefishing on the planet. Rate: $5,050-$5,350 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Moonrise over the beachside bar, Andros South Lodge. Photo: Andrew Bennett
Andros South Lodge
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Delivering a ndros South Lodge is a well-managed, Schools of bonefish numbering in the thoucomfortable, high-value, understated lodge where serious anglers sands can sometimes be encountered or days no-frills experience on pursue their sport. Located in the settlement can be spent seeking out cruising singles and of Kemp’s Bay on the southeastern shore of some of the Bahamas’ most doubles. At times, trips to the famed West productive flats. Andros Island, Andros South Lodge focuses Side of the island are possible, depending on the diverse and extremely fertile bonefishon weather and tides. ing grounds of the southernmost reaches of the island. For All packages offer single occupancy rooms with air conthose who value simple, clean accommodations, skilled guides, ditioning and private bathrooms. An extensive array of loaner quality equipment and a great fishing program, this is the tackle is also available for guests. Meals typically feature fresh perfect Bahamian destination. The vast and incredibly diverse seafood offerings including snapper, grouper, lobster and conch, fisheries of southern Andros Island offer anglers opportunities as well as other traditional Bahamian and American favorites. to wade white sand flats, ply hidden lagoons, explore blue holes Rather than focusing on the frills, Andros South concentrates on and traverse wide reaching ocean-side flats. Andros also offers providing friendly service, great food, a veteran crew of skilled an expansive array of hidden and unspoiled creek systems, guides and a well-tuned fishing program that aims to show you remote inland lakes and strategic cuts where anglers can find the best of what this remarkable region has to offer. shelter from the wind without forsaking productive fishing. Rate: $4,635 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Yucatan Tarpon
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he fertile mangrove-lined waters of Mexico’s northern Yucatan Peninsula represent the most prolific juvenile tarpon waters in the world. The ease of travel, abundant populations of tarpon, and consistent heart-stopping action on the fly makes this region ideal for short trips or longer adventures combining multiple destinations. While considered a yearround destination, our favorite time to be there falls between April and September. Tarpon Cay Lodge The rich azure waters of the Gulf of Mexico and the charming village of San Felipe set the scene for an excursion to Tarpon Cay Lodge. This prolific juvenile tarpon fishery takes advantage of two major biosphere preserves that surround the lodge for miles in each direction. You’ll also appreciate the split-shift schedule and post-lunch afternoon siesta each fishing day. With a maximum of six anglers, Tarpon Cay Lodge is a small operation rich with rustic Mexican charm, fantastic home-cooked meals and highly skilled guides. Simple accommodations feature bright rooms with fans and airy ocean views, air conditioning and private baths. This incredibly rich ecosystem offers the most well-rounded, interesting and productive baby tarpon fishery on the planet! Rate: $3,525 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Isla del Sabalo Located 60 miles north of the city of Campeche, Isla del Sabalo sits in a solitary world of its own, devoid of any competing angling pressure. With two distinct fisheries, anglers have the opportunity to target baby tarpon from 5 to 20 pounds across nearly 30 accessible river systems and larger juveniles from 20 to 50 pounds found on deeper off-shore flats. The beauty of Isla del Sabalo lies in its simplicity. Anglers enjoy basic air-conditioned beach cabanas with two beds, a table and a private bathroom. Each morning the pangas are loaded
and beach-launched in front of the property, mere steps away from your room. Meals are served under a large central palapa and consist of fantastic, down-home Mexican comfort food. Rate: $3,525 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Isla Holbox Isla Holbox is located on the north coast of Mexico’s Yucatan Peninsula. The island is approximately seven miles long and its surrounding flats, lagoons, channels and mangrove forests are home to dizzying numbers of baby tarpon. Placed squarely amongst the most productive tarpon waters found anywhere in the world, Isla Holbox is a world-class destination for fly anglers interested in chasing both baby tarpon and larger migratory tarpon in excess of 100 pounds. The charming and casual fishing village of Holbox is filled with authentic Mexican restaurants, bars, hotels and beachside cantinas. This classic Mexican beach town serves as your home base for a fantastic tarpon adventure. Isla Holbox is perfect for hardcore anglers, couples and families alike. It’s hard not to fall in love with the island and the general warm vibes of this casual Mexican fishing village. Rate: $450 per boat/per day Campeche Located on the western Yucatan Peninsula, the quaint historic city of Campeche offers a rich hub from which to access more than 80 miles of mangrove coasts, countless inlet creeks, and numerous channels rich with baby tarpon. Here skilled fly fishing guides specialize in sight fishing for feisty tarpon in the 5 to 30-pound class on floating lines. Campeche is a favorite for saltwater fly anglers of all skill levels. Standard packages offer accommodations at the Ocean View Hotel or the Hotel Plaza Campeche, and for keen tarpon anglers looking for a spouse-appropriate destination, Campeche fits the bill nicely. Light breakfasts are served at the hotel and ample lunches are served aboard the panga boats. Guests enjoy evening meals (not included) at various restaurants in this charming historical city. Upgraded accommodations are also available. Rate: $3,200-$3,595 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Fly Water’s saltwater specialist Dylan Rose with a handsome Playa Blanca permit. Photo: Dylan Rose
Yucatan
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ocated 90 miles south of Cancun is the crown jewel of Mexico’s saltwater ecosystems: the 1.3 million acre Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve, which encompasses and protects the rich turquoise waters of Ascension Bay. Here, among endless crystal-clear flats, mangrove lagoons, channels and reefs, bonefish, permit, tarpon, snook and barracuda abound. Due to its protected status and a growing conservation ethic among its inhabitants, many agree that the region’s fishing is
actually improving. Today the area is rich in quality guides and accommodations. The majority of them are located in or near the quaint fishing village of Punta Allen. At first glance they appear similar, but after years of working the region, we have come to understand their subtle differences. Whether you are a family in search of a great fishing vacation or a seasoned angler in search of the coveted “grand slam,” we will help you find the lodge that is right for you. Casa Blanca Lodge Casa Blanca Lodge is widely considered the most established, secluded and professional operation in the greater Ascension Bay region. Located at the southern end of Ascension Bay, Casa Blanca Lodge’s superb location puts anglers on some of the most remote locations in Ascension Bay within minutes. Casa Blanca’s veteran stable of guides features some of the most talented and experienced professionals on the entire Yucatan. A fresh, vibrant and highly energetic new management team has this venerable operation in top shape and delivering on all fronts. Packages include a private air charter to their private island from Cancun. Rate: $4,349-$4,730 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Playa Blanca Lodge Located just nine miles to the south of Casa Blanca Lodge, Playa Blanca Lodge focuses on fishing the remote and highly productive Espiritu Santo Bay and the lesser-known Laguna Santa Rosa. From their secluded beach-front luxury accommodations, anglers stalk bonefish, permit and tarpon from handsome skiffs in a wide range of aquatic environments. With its white sand beach, private Mayan ruins and numerous non-angling activities, Playa Blanca is a natural for couples and family groups in addition to the most committed anglers. Packages include a private air charter to their private island from Cancun. Rate: $4,349-$4,730 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Pesca Maya Lodge When it comes to value, flexible packages, a variety of fish species and warm Mexican hospitality, Pesca Maya Lodge has always been at the top of our list. The lodge maintains a skilled staff of in-house guides that rank among our favorite in the Yucatan. Located on a white sand beach just outside the village of Punta Allen, Pesca Maya Lodge is a casual favorite for serious anglers in search of Ascension Bay’s best fly fishing. Rate: $3,964 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Grand Slam Lodge Grand Slam Lodge sets a new standard for quality lodging in the region. The lodge offers seasoned anglers, couples and families world-class fishing opportunities coupled with the region’s most luxurious accommodations. Located on a private beach outside the village of Punta Allen, Grand Slam is highlighted by 12 private multi-room villas, a beautifully appointed main lodge and a swimming pool. Other than fishing, spouses can
enjoy picturesque beach lounging on king-size “Bali” beach beds, kayaking, golf, snorkeling, scuba diving, kite surfing and an array of Mayan tours. Rate: $3,550-$3,830 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Pesca Mahahual For anglers keen on truly getting “off the beaten path,” Pesca Mahahual offers the perfect solution. Located near the town of Mahahual, Mexico, between Espiritu Santo Bay and Chetumal Bay, Pesca Mahahual focuses on the numerous tarpon rich cenotes (brackish lakes) and river systems that dot the coastline from Belize north to the Sian Ka’an Biosphere Reserve. Anglers can also take advantage of the rarely seen Chetumal Bay as well as the northern tips of Ambergris and Deer Cayes in Belize. Master guide Carlos Castillo has partnered with a beautiful ocean-side villa called La Casa Que Canta. This charming villa serves as your home base for a fantastic angling getaway, home-cooked Mexican cuisine and Emanuel’s famous margaritas, all for a reasonable rate in a spectacular and seldom-fished area of the Yucatan. Rate: $2,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Isla Blanca For anglers visiting the Cancun area with their families or transiting to other destinations across the Yucatan, Isla Blanca offers incredibly rich baby tarpon, snook and permit opportunities proximal to the bustling tourist center of Cancun. The numerous flats and mangrove systems of Isla Blanca located northwest of Cancun are accessed by purpose built 18-foot panga-style skiffs. This is the perfect way to sneak in some fishing while on a family vacation and day trips are welcome. Rate: $395 per boat/per day
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Heather Hickmann stalking the flats of the Turneffe Atoll. Photo: Brian Gies
Saltwater
Belize W
ith the lowest population density in Central America, a diverse and laid-back English-speaking population, abundant rivers, numerous inland wildlife reserves, endless flats, hundreds of small islands and the longest barrier reef in the Western Hemisphere, Belize is truly a travel-friendly nature lover’s paradise. With incredibly healthy populations of bonefish, permit, tarpon, jacks and snook, there is enough diversity to keep even the most hardened angler captivated. Likewise, those not interested in fishing have countless options ranging from snorkeling and scuba, jungle tours, guided birding, eco-adventure and Mayan ruin tours. El Pescador Resort Located on the island of Ambergris Caye, hardcore anglers and non-fishing guests alike will find a myriad of available activities within easy striking distance. Bonefish, permit, snook, jacks, barracuda and both resident and migratory tarpon are all available from El Pescador. Spectacular snorkeling, diving and kayaking as well as eco-tour programs are all available. For those who prefer to just relax, three on-site swimming pools are also available. Additionally, the charming tourist town of San Pedro lies just minutes away by boat. Small groups can also take advantage of well-appointed two or three-bedroom private villas. El Pescador Resort combines exceptional service, quality fishing and an abundance of exciting eco-adventure activities. Rate: $3,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Belize River Lodge Belize River Lodge rests quietly on the lush, green banks of the Old Belize River and is easy to reach from the states. This historic mahogany lodge is well known for providing a warm tropical experience and easy access to what we consider the most diverse array of saltwater fisheries in Belize. With rich wind protected river systems, large resident rolling tarpon and countless offshore cayes loaded with permit, bonefish and snook, Belize River Lodge may be one of the world’s best places to capture an elusive inshore super grand slam (bonefish, permit, tarpon and snook all caught and released in a single day). Rate: $3,989 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Long Caye Island Resort Owned and managed by the same team as Belize River Lodge, this small three-bedroom house lies on a small island with a private beach and productive flat right out the front door. This idyllic Belizean outpost gives guests immediate access to a huge number of the most productive waters in the region. Catering to private groups of no more than six people, this intimate operation is the perfect setting for the ultimate small group getaway. Rate: $3,989 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Turneffe Flats Lodge For more than 20 years, Turneffe Flats Lodge has been a mecca for serious anglers. Long recognized as one of Belize’s top saltwater fly fishing destinations, the lodge also offers premiere scuba diving and marine eco-tourism opportunities. Located on the vast Turneffe Atoll, Turneffe Flats Lodge boasts a remarkable diversity of varied saltwater experiences. The management team consistently provides top-notch experiences and thoroughly understands how to take care of non-angling companions. Rate: $3,780-$4,280 per person plus taxes for a 7 night/6 day package Belcampo Belize Sitting atop a picturesque jungle ridge above the small Belizean village of Punta Gorda is the beautiful Belcampo Belize lodge and farm. Belcampo is a paradise for adventure seekers, foodies, spa goers, couples and fly anglers seeking to experience some of the most prolific permit grounds found anywhere in the world. Belcampo gives the phrase “farm-to-table” a whole new meaning as their operation produces 80% of everything served at the lodge. Renowned chef and Le Cordon Bleu culinary school instructor Renee Everett uses the farm as her private culinary playground to create virtuosic cuisine with some of the freshest local ingredients imaginable. Belcampo’s crops and animals are all lovingly cared for and rest on over 12,000 private acres of pristine jungle. Anglers target permit, tarpon and bonefish with legendary local guides from the Garbutt’s Fishing Lodge. We are pleased to offer Belcampo as one of the most unique and interesting programs found anywhere in the saltwater world. Rate: $3,947-$5,094 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Garbutt’s Fishing Lodge The Garbutt brothers’ fishing lodge is located in the small village of Punta Gorda near Belize’s southern border with Guatemala. Scully, Eworth and Oliver Garbutt are master permit hunters and focus on the prolific waters of the Port Honduras Marine Reserve. This rich, 847-square-kilometer network of lagoons, islands, reefs and flats provide for some of the most diverse and little-pressured permit grounds found anywhere in the world. The Garbutts offer simple seaside cabanas and home-spun Belizean cuisine in an affordable, comfortable and friendly atmosphere. Simply put, there may not be a better place in the world to chase permit by day and rest your head by night! Rate: $2,865 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Saltwater
Indian Ocean trevally, Bohar snapper, barracuda, milkfish, finicky Indo-Pacific permit and a host of triggerfish species all call Cosmoledo home. Hit this trip right and it is as good as saltwater fishing can be! Rate: $14,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Astove Atoll Lodge NEW Just a stone’s throw away from the famous Cosmoledo Atoll lies the lesser-known but equally prolific Astove Atoll. Among anglers in the know, this atoll is recognized as the greatest GT fishery in all the Seychelles. Angling here has historically been limited due to difficulties in access, but with the construction of a new airstrip and a simple rustic lodge, small groups of six anglers are now able to access this unspoiled saltwater paradise. Rate: $14,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
T
he Seychelles have been deemed home to the greatest saltwater fly fishing on earth, largely due to steady streams of large, aggressive bonefish, endless pristine flats, huge trevally and barracuda, mysterious schools of super-charged milkfish, Indo-Pacific permit, triggerfish and some of the best flats guides in the business. The only downside is that once you have fished here you will be forever spoiled. Let us help you navigate these remarkable waters and aid you in finding the saltwater experience you have been dreaming of.
Alphonse Island Resort Alphonse Island Resort is the original and arguably the most consistent Seychelles destination where world-class fishing is complimented by some of the best accommodations in the saltwater world. Alphonse Island Resort offers guests refined international cuisine, tasteful waterfront chalets complete with private verandas, and bathrooms with open-air showers. Rate: $9,200 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Farquhar Atoll Lodge Long known to only the inner circle of adventuresome saltwater anglers, Farquhar was one of the earliest outer islands to be discovered. Its reasonable size, varied flats, coral-strewn lagoon and prolific blue water fishery makes it one of the world’s best multi-species destinations. In the past it was only accessed by mothership but today anglers enjoy a small, simple lodge that makes it the perfect island fish camp. Rate: $8,500 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Providence Atoll Live Aboard NEW Providence Atoll ranks among the largest and least discovered fisheries in the Seychelles. It has vast open sand flats, large areas of turtle grass and intricate coral heads scattered throughout deeper waters. There are many channels, coral spits and dropoffs with several deep cuts that become isolated during spring low tides. Top guides have described it as a massive unpredictable beast that changes moods with the tides and will take years to fully discover and tame. Be among the first to unlock and experience the vast potential of this prolific saltwater wilderness. Rate: $11,500 per person for a 7 night/6 day package St. Brandon’s Atoll Live Aboard Due east of Madagascar and 300 miles northeast of the island of Mauritius lies an obscure and seldom-visited atoll that may be the greatest bonefishing destination in the world. Fished from the comfort of a luxurious 96-foot live aboard, St. Brandon’s Atoll is a wade fisherman’s paradise blessed with enormous hard sand flats and staggering numbers of huge bonefish. In addition to this incomparable bonefish resource, anglers will also encounter good numbers of Indo-Pacific permit and a vast array of trevally including bluefin, golden, yellow dot, green spot and the coveted GT. Rate: $7,500 per person for a 10 night/7 day package
Cosmoledo Live Aboard Accessed by the MV Dugong, Cosmoledo is known as one of the best giant trevally fisheries in the world and has become the benchmark for anglers in search of the epic flats fishing experience. Cosmo is a large untouched ecosystem whose white sand flats, lagoons and channels are ruled by pugnacious packs of giant trevally. However, these fish are not the only species that can be found here in impressive numbers. Big bonefish, bluefin PAGE 64
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“¡Viva la Cuba!” Opening relations and opening doors for saltwater anglers
By Dylan Rose
A sunset session in the Jardines de la Reina. Photo: Jon Covich
A
man in a straw hat plows his field with oxen under the searing midday heat. A pink 1955 Chevy Bel Air convertible rattles and growls its way around Revolution Square. Men gather under late afternoon shade trees to play dominos and argue about the local baseball scene. A drumming session breaks out at sundown on the famed Malecón esplanade, and an impassioned couple embrace nearby. Elsewhere, a 30-pound permit flutters in plain view behind a meter-wide stingray, sucking down tasty morsels that scurry out from under its wings. Cuba. The mere mention of it elicits a treasure trove of iconic cultural imagery. Cuba’s cultural identity permeates every moment of a trip to this rebellious island paradise. The wafting smoke of cigars, the sweet aftertaste of rum, the poetically beautiful streets and eclectic colonial architecture of old Havana, and a passionate population of locals willing to dance the cha-cha, mambo, or salsa at a moment’s notice. For Americans it has remained the illicit garden, a place where bountiful bushes hang low with forbidden fruit. There is something for everyone: incredible history, beautiful beaches, saltwater slams and fine cigars. With the continued easing of travel restrictions, more
and more American anglers are identifying Cuba as a nearby and now legal stronghold for pristine marine ecosystems, large bonefish, abundant permit and burly migratory tarpon.
Lifting the Curtain On January 1, 1959, Fidel Castro, Che Guevara and Camillo Cienfuegos succeeded in leading a guerilla army against the authoritarian dictatorship of Fulgencia Batista. The Cuban Revolution had widespread effects on the U.S. and eventually led to the inception of the most enduring trade embargo in modern history. Until quite recently U.S. anglers illegally visiting Cuba risked hefty fines and legal action levied by the U.S. Treasury, not to mention the stress of lying to a U.S. customs agent about your whereabouts upon your return. Yet, as we know, many diehard saltwater anglers did so more than once and found it well worth the risk. With recent policy changes and the relaxing of decades-old rules, American anglers can now take advantage of a special allowance that provides 100% legal entry in to Cuba and, more importantly, re-entry back to the United States. This allowance entails making a donation to an approved charitable
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“¡VIVA LA CUBA!” organization, in our case, the Bonefish & Tarpon Trust (BTT). improved over time, benefiting from a national ethos that emThe BTT is a highly respected organization dedicated to prebraces the protection and preservation of its natural resources. serving and protecting saltwater species and their habitats. Fly anglers are offered a truly unique cultural travel adventure The process of obtaining the license is straightforward and coupled with a plethora of pristine saltwater eco-systems. simple. Upon booking your reservation with Fly Mangrove lagoons, channels, thousands of cays and Water, a donation of $250 is made to the BTT an endless array of pristine flats provide an abunvia their website. Once all members of your dance of angling opportunities. group have made their donations, a letter of Without a doubt, the largest and most licensure is issued to anglers explaining their qualiestablished outfitter in Cuba is Avalon Cuban Avalon fying reason for travel to Cuba. Also notable is that Fishing Centers. With a fleet of seven yachts, some Crab Fly travelers can bring back up to $400 in souvenirs, of them in excess of 120 feet long, and several including one box of cigars or 25 singles, and a bottle of rum! resort/land-based options, they have the history, experience and infrastructure to support anglers in some of the most remote and Havana pristine eco-systems in the Caribbean. Avalon’s motherships are purpose-built specifically for anglers and divers. Every considerLike an aged starlet still dressed to the nines, Havana’s beauty ation has been made aboard these yachts to ensure the comfort shines through the wrinkles and a sparkle still glimmers in her of their guests, including plenty of fresh and hot water, spacious eye. A trip to Cuba is simply not complete without spending rooms, 110v power with American plugs, bar areas, and lounges. some quality time in Havana, particularly if it’s your first trip. A walk through old Havana is as close as one can get to time The Time Is Now travel. It’s as if someone pushed the pause button in 1959, walked away to order a Mojito and then forgot to hit play With the recent openings of embassies and American cruise again. From every hollow, open window and sidewalk café ships getting in line to service the country, my sense is that musicians and ghetto blasters create a soundtrack for the city. Cuba will be a very different place in coming years. Tourism is The soulful sounds of brass horns, acoustic guitars, conga already a big part of the Cuban landscape but it seems somedrums and heart-filled choruses echo through busy cobbled how manageable without the pressing interest of Americans. streets. From the crumbling corners and ornate architecture Thankfully, the fisheries are still incredibly well-protected and to the brilliant Malecón Boulevard lying seaside against a setthere’s zero evidence to support that vigilant preservation of ting sun, the whole scene is ridiculously charming. Tours, extra their fisheries will suffer from the coming American masses. days and side trips can all be easily arranged with most fishing However, a big part of the experience of visiting Cuba, and packages. Listed as a UNESCO world heritage site in 1982, more specifically Havana, is the intrigue that comes with a Havana will easily captivate you for a day or an entire week. well-preserved old-world city. It’s hard not to wonder how a roWhether you like the idea of strolling through old-town and bust interaction with the United States will affect the country stopping in for a powerful Cuban coffee, or are planning to and furthermore, what it will look like with cruise ships, visit one of Hemingway’s favorite haunts, or just prefer to Coca-Cola, and the indiscretion of advertising media. In spend the day touring the city in a 50s-era classic car: if you essence, I think the time is now to visit Cuba, experience can’t have fun in Havana, you can’t have fun anywhere! the wonder of Havana and take advantage of some fantastic fishing opportunities. Fishing Regions & Destinations One of the biggest challenges in planning a trip to Cuba To put the sheer size and scale of Cuba’s offerings in perspecis deciding exactly which destination best meets the goals for tive, the country is nearly the size of Florida and about eight your trip. Important considerations should be made with times the size of the Bahamas. It has an incredible amount of regard to target species, seasonality, pricing and travel with terrain and fishable territory that, unlike many other places, has those interested in activities other than fishing. Each option
“Like an aged starlet still dressed to the nines, Havana’s beauty shines through the wrinkles and a sparkle still glimmers in her eye.” PAGE 66
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Top: Iconic Castro propaganda art; a classic Edsel; Fly Water’s national sales rep and Cuba specialist Jon Covich with a permit from the Gardens of the Queen. Middle: Working the flats of Cayo Cruz. Bottom: A typical Cuban tarpon; Afro-Cuban stilt walkers in Havana. 1-800 -552-2729 PAGE 67 Photos: Dylan Rose & Jon Covich
“¡VIVA LA CUBA!”
In essence, I think the time is now to visit Cuba, experience the wonder of Havana and take advantage of some fantastic fishing opportunities. offers unique features and propositions that may help define your perfect trip. Below is a quick synopsis of the options and their respective offerings:
Jardines de la Reina The Jardines de la Reina (JDR), which translates to the “Gardens of the Queen,” is located off the southern central coast of the country. This massive archipelago is formed by some 600 cays and parallels the Cuban coastline for nearly 100 miles. It alone is bigger than the entirety of the Florida Keys. The JDR is a vast and prolific marine sanctuary and is serviced by Avalon exclusively, meaning it’s likely you will never see another fishing boat other than those from your trip on the water. This area offers anglers true variety and fantastic biodiversity. Both migratory and baby tarpon, permit, bonefish, jacks, snapper and barracuda are all available. Anglers access the fishery aboard Avalon’s floating hotel called La Tortuga or aboard one of several motherships located in the area.
complete with several restaurants, swimming pools, activities, eco-excursions and amenities, or the smaller and more casual Villas Merinera. Suitable for families and couples, both options provide a perfect home base for general vacation tourism and saltwater angling.
Isla de la Juventud Isla de la Juventud (Island of the Youth) is located just off the southwestern coast of the country. This destination has quickly become a mecca for large migratory tarpon from March through June. While large migratory tarpon are the main attraction, good opportunities for bonefish and the odd permit exist. This is an off-the-beaten path destination for serious tarpon anglers. Anglers access the area via mothership.
Cayo Santa Maria
Cayo Santa Maria has an established track record of providing amazing tarpon opportunities. Located on the northern coast of the country, approximately a 4.5-hour drive due east of Cayo Cruz Havana, this area known as the Jardines del Rey (Gardens Cayo Cruz features one of the most healthy, untouched of the King) is a prime destination for both resident and and pristine marine environments in Cuba. Located on migratory tarpon. Some opportunities for bonefish and perthe northern central coast, this newer destinamit are available as well. This diverse region offers flats, tion from Avalon is still being explored and beaches, deep channels and mangroves. Most producing impressive results. This fishery fishing takes place from the boat. The best time is defined by great wading opportunities to visit Santa Maria is March through July, with and fantastic fishing for large bonefish, permit peak months being May and June for migratory Bl ac k Death and migratory tarpon in season (May). Anglers tarpon. Anglers stay at a large luxury resort in Fly access the fishery via Avalon’s mothership. close proximity to the waiting fishing skiffs. Santa Maria also remains one of the more budget-friendly options in Cayo Largo experiencing Cuba. Cayo Largo offers an immaculate and highly productive flats The Zapata Peninsula fishery coupled with great options for those interested in a If you’re interested in experiencing some of Cuba’s most wide range of resort-based activities. Absent of commercial diverse and economical fishing opportunities, the Zapata fishing pressure, Cayo Largo (Long Cay) is a meticulously National Park may be your place. The principal focus here are managed biosphere preserve and the area is designated “fly the flats and Bocas of Las Salinas, the Rio Hatiguanico, and fishing only.” Trips to Cayo Largo avoid the confines of a San Lazaro areas. Fly Fishing the Run operates the 100 foot mothership and give guests the ability to explore the island’s long yacht Georgiana in this area offering groups of eight a beaches, tours and dynamic ecosystems. The primary targets luxury mothership option. Also available is Fish Zapata, a for anglers include large bonefish and permit with a few simple land-based operation that accesses the fishery through opportunities for resident tarpon. Anglers can either stay a long mangrove channel terminating in an enormous bay at The Sol Club, a large (296-room) all-inclusive resort PAGE 68
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Top: Tight to a bonefish at Cayo Largo; a dinner toast on Avalon Fleet 1, Cayo Cruz. Middle: A classic car cruises past Havana Parque Central. Bottom: Avalon Fleet 1; an original member of the Buena Vista Social Club in Havana; Jon Covich with a trophy bonefish from Cayo Largo. Photos: Dylan Rose & Jon Covich 1-800 -552-2729 PAGE 69
“¡VIVA LA CUBA!” with an endless array of habitats. This region offers great bonefish and permit flats as well as mangrove habitats for juvenile tarpon. The Zapata peninsula is only 2.5 hours from Havana and is perfect for shorter custom packages.
Seasonality & Pricing The month of May brings peak season fishing and stiff competition for availability in Cuba. In terms of pricing, May bookings can represent as much as a 35% increase over the same trip booked during the low season (namely December–February and July–September). A big factor in the May increase has to do with the expectation of migratory tarpon at the various destinations. Large tarpon begin appearing in April, peak in May and taper off in June. However, anglers that are not overly concerned with migratory tarpon can take advantage of lower mid-season and low-season rates and still experience fantastic fishing for bonefish, permit, resident tarpon, jacks, barracuda and snapper, depending on location. For many anglers, mid and low season pricing provide nice savings, sacrificing only the potential for larger tarpon.
Conclusion Cuba is a vastly different place than the United States. It takes an incredible amount of effort, skill and hard work for outfitters to function successfully within a totalitarian communist state. Interested anglers need to be ready to roll with the travelrelated punches. With all of the required documentation, less than ideal flights, long check-in times, lengthy in-country transfers, and several currency issues at hand, a prospective
Rates
Cayo Largo
Jardines de la Reina La Tortuga: $5,950-$8,450 per person for a 9 night/ 6 day package Halcon: $5,550-$8,050 per person for a 9 night/ 6 day package Avalon Fleet I: $53,990-$76,800 for a 9 night/ 6 day package for up to 8 anglers Avalon Fleet II: $67,500-$96,000 for a 9 night/ 6 day package for up to 10 anglers
Cayo Cruz Avalon Fleet I: $53,990-$76,800 for a 9 night/ 6 day package for up to 8 anglers Avalon Fleet II: $67,500-$96,000 for a 9 night/ 6 day package for up to 10 anglers
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traveler must be patient and willing to deal with a little thirdworld adversity. Things on the ground in Cuba just happen on “island time” and the more you fight it, the more it will hurt. Luckily, Fly Water functions as a facilitator to make your trip as smooth as possible and we work diligently to limit surprises. We’ll help you by providing prompt correspondence, accurate billing, and assistance with confusing foreign exchanges. Furthermore, it can be thoroughly confusing just trying to figure out where to go! Our experience in the country is an invaluable tool for you as you begin the process of making an informed decision and considering all of the available options. Throughout the process, Fly Water will be your personal advocate and help you navigate all the options, and most importantly, we will allow you peace of mind while traveling in a new country. Cuba’s diverse and varied fishing programs are in a class by themselves. The fishing can be spectacular and the call of wild, unpressured flats remains the stuff that angling dreams are made of. However, beyond all of this, it’s truly a magical time in history to visit this remarkable island nation. With so much history, transition and possibility, a trip to Cuba makes for a fantastic travel adventure all by itself. The culture, personality, and unyielding charm make for an attractive and almost addictive atmosphere. A journey to Cuba blends cultural interest, travel adventure and world-class fishing better than perhaps any other destination in the world today. Just don’t be surprised if you return home only to find yourself becoming disturbingly preoccupied with creating the perfect Mojito, salsa dancing alone in your kitchen, and unexpectedly shouting “¡Viva la Cuba!”
Sol Club Melia: $6,400-$8,850 per person for a 9 night/6 day package Villa Merinera: $4,700-$6,990 per person for a 9 night/6 day package
Isla de Juventud Perola: $46,450-$31,700 for 9 night/6 days up to 6 anglers
Fly Fishing the Run Gardens of the King: $3,640-$5,320 per person for a 8 night/6 day package Zapata: $25,600-$32,000 for a 7 night/6 day package for up to 8 anglers
Fish Zapata Playa Larga: $3,745 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Patagonia
Fly Water representative Jon Covich with a trophy rainbow from the private waters of Panda Lake. Photo: Jon Covich
Coyhaique River Lodge
E
Coyhaique River Lodge’s setting is truly mploying good old-fashioned hard work The gold standard in and determination, Chilean owners terms of quality lodging spectacular, with pleasant rolling foothills leading up to the surrounding higher snowGaston and Claudio Urrejola did their in Chile’s trout fishing capped Andes. This lodge experience offers research, found the perfect location and put mecca of Coyhaique guests first-class accommodations and meals in a heroic effort to create Coyhaique River in a quiet and convenient location, as well as diverse fishing Lodge, the newest addition to southern Chile’s growing list of opportunities for some of Chile’s finest wild trout. world-class fishing lodges. Located just outside of the regional Rate: $4,250 per person for a 7 night/6 day package capital of Coyhaique, an area widely considered Chile’s trout fishing mecca, this first-class facility sets a new standard for fly fishing lodges in Patagonia. The lodge’s program offers a diverse and exciting array of excellent trout fishing locations as well as a variety of interesting adventure-based activities for non-fishing partners. Coyhaique River Lodge is a beautiful new facility overlooking the attractive Rio Coyhaique, a small user-friendly freestone stream perfect for working the kinks out after a long international flight. A typical week-long fishing itinerary draws from a number of regional favorites, including these nearby classic rivers: Simpson, Nirehuao, Paloma, Manihuales, Emperador Guillermo and Azul. Several smaller spring creeks and private trophy still waters are also within easy reach.
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Patagonia
A drone’s-eye view of Chile’s fabulous Lago Yelcho. Photo: Jon Covich
Chilean Patagonia La Posada de Los Farios
Chucao Lodge
Rex Bryngelson is one of the early pioneers who came to Chile in search of whitewater and adventure and ended up finding incomparable rivers with remarkable fly fishing, a sense of place, true love and his life’s work. The end result is La Posada de Los Farios (The Inn of the Brown Trout), located on the banks of the Rio Cisnes. Here in the heart of Chile’s greatest trout fishing region, the options are nearly endless — productive floats on nearby rivers, small technical spring creeks, seldom-fished high country lakes and excursions into remote coastal systems are all near at hand. La Posada de Los Farios is the ultimate blend of homestyle Chilean hospitality and high-quality fly fishing. Rate: $4,350 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
When Gonzalo Cortés, author of Fly Fishing in Chilean Patagonia, set his sights on building the fly fishing lodge of his dreams, it quickly became clear that one location in Patagonia would not suffice. There was simply too much good water, so he built two lodges, Yelcho and Rosselot. Chucao’s unique dual lodge program allows guests the opportunity to split their fishing week and take in all that this remarkable region of Chile has to offer. For those who want a charming and utterly authentic Chilean experience with variety, exceptional scenery, dry fly fishing, and a chance at some very large trout, a visit to Chucao Lodge is hard to beat. Rate: $4,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Patagonia
Nomads of the Seas Very rarely are we presented with an experience so unique that we stumble in describing it. This, however, is one. At its core is a 150-foot state-of-the-art mothership built exclusively to explore the boundless wilderness of southern Chile’s largely unexplored fjords. Equipped with two helicopters, six custom jet boats and a small fleet of rafts, their mission is to experience the fly fishing bounty and ecological wonders of Chile’s most remote reaches by air, land and sea. Designed with luxury in mind, guests enjoy world-class cuisine, daily wine tasting, complete spa services and spacious cabins with exterior views and private baths. While fly fishing is a major focus, other adventures including hiking, whale watching, birding and nature photography are all approached with the same eye for quality. We invite you to experience the virgin coastline of Chile in an angling and eco-adventure that promises to be in a class by itself. Rate: $11,300 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Remota Located near Puerto Natales on the edge of Patagonia’s Torres del Paine National Park, this utterly unique resort is the ultimate base for a wide range of activities and adventures. Its modern architecture artistically compliments the stark beauty of the surrounding natural environment. It features seventy-two well-appointed rooms, a beautiful restaurant overlooking the water, a heated infinity pool, sauna, outdoor
Jacuzzi and a full time masseuse. With the remarkable Torres del Paine National Park serving as the main attraction, the resort offers over 30 different excursions in the surrounding mountains, glaciers, lakes, rivers, forests and prairies. Activities include day hikes, mountain biking, horseback riding, cultural visits, and, of course, fly fishing. For adventuresome couples looking to explore this remote corner of Patagonia from a luxurious base, Remota is the place. Rate: $5,050 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Futaleufu Multi-Sport Adventure The Futaleufu Multi-Sport Adventure is based out of a deluxe riverside camp overlooking the turquoise waters of the famed Futaleufu River. With whitewater rafting, inflatable kayaking, fly fishing, hiking, horseback riding, mountain biking, and yoga this southern Chile trip has something for just about everyone. Each day involves a new and customized mix of activities guided by accomplished and talented international outdoor guides. River-based adventures include whitewater rafting the incomparable Futaleufu River, inflatable kayaking the aptly named Rio Azul, fly fishing for rainbow trout, or taking a lesson in whitewater kayaking. Land-based activities include horseback riding, hiking up pristine valleys and mountain biking a mix of established trails and single track. This river paradise ringed by snowcapped mountains showcases the best of what Chile has to offer. Rate: $3,400 per person for a 8 night/7 day package
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Patagonia
Another Argentine brown trout to the net. Photo: Justi Campa
Argentine Patagonia
Limay River Lodge There are new places, and there are great places, and on occasion there are great new places. This lodge will certainly go down in history as one of those lucky few. Located in the arid wide-open expanses of the Patagonian flatlands mid-way between Bariloche and Neuquen, the newly constructed Limay River Lodge sits entirely on its own overlooking what might be the most biologically rich and rewarding trophy trout river in Argentina. Limay River Lodge is the only lodge on this vast braided river with more than 50 miles of water and ten distinct beats. While historically thought of as a late-season migratory brown trout river, the truth of the matter is that this system is packed with resident rainbows and browns, the vast majority of which are 18 to 22 inches and eager to eat large dry flies. The lodge itself is a handsome adobe-style structure with luxurious guest rooms, exceptional cuisine, and a seasoned staff of professional guides headed by Patagonia guiding legend Jorge Trucco. Rate: $6,590 per person for a 7 night /6 day package PAGE 74
Wilderness Float Trips It is no secret that we at Fly Water Travel love being on the water, and when answering “how much time do we want to spend there?” the answer is always “the more the better!” With our Patagonia wilderness float trips, that is just what you get: quality river time and lots of it. Trips are run on many of the famous rivers in northern Patagonia including the Caleufu, Collon Cura, Chimehuin, and Alumine Rivers. These rivers all run through the semiarid Patagonian Steppe, a region in many ways reminiscent of eastern Oregon and Washington. Trips range from four to six days and cover 20 to 60 miles with deluxe camping along the river each night. Rate: $2,350 per person for a 5 night/4 day package Rio Manso Lodge Nestled in the midst of Nahuel Huapi National Park, Rio Manso Lodge and the waters they fish are testament to the fact that ecosystems and bioregions are not restricted by political boundaries. This region, with its lush rainforest and brilliant
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Patagonia
green rivers, is more reminiscent of Chile than the often-dry regions of Argentina. Equally significant is that this region is rather easy to reach from the thriving hub of Bariloche, but just far enough away that its stunning fisheries feel almost private. With great hosts, family-style meals served near a handsome fireplace and comfortable accommodations, this facility is the perfect base from which to enjoy a range of seldom-fished waters. There are multiple downriver floating options as well as great trophy lakes where anglers can sight-fish dry flies to cruising fish. Rate: $4,375 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Spring Creek Lodge Located on the banks of Argentina’s renowned Chimehuin River, Spring Creek Lodge boasts a combination of world-class fishing and tasteful accommodations, making it a favorite for anglers visiting the San Martin/Junin area. Centrally located within the heart of the region’s most diverse and productive trout waters, the lodge offers anglers the ability to float or wade-fish the pristine flows of the Chimehuin, Malleo, Alumine, Collon Cura, Caleufu, Quilquihue and Quemquemtreu. From their two-bedroom bungalows, guests at Spring Creek Lodge enjoy thoughtfully prepared meals accompanied by fine Argentine wines and great views of their lovely pond, private spring creek, and the nearby Lanín volcano. Rate: $4,200 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Estancia Tipiliuke Originally established as a cattle ranch in 1909, Estancia Tipiliuke is a wonderfully landscaped estate shaded by tall poplars and pines. This classic estancia boasts luxurious comfort, Argentine
ranching history, and exceptional private fly fishing access to over nine productive miles of the Chimehuin and Quilquihue rivers. Both systems are well known for their beauty and prolific fisheries and are fly fished exclusively by wading on their private property. Rate: $5,040 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Estancia San Huberto Perhaps the most sought-after destination in the region, this classic 25,000-acre estancia offers nearly twenty miles of private access to the gorgeous and famed Malleo River. The Malleo features a rich combination of pocket water, glassy runs, and green fish-filled pools. It offers easy wading and boasts some of the most consistent hatches in Patagonia. The lodge has a classic, comfortable atmosphere that artfully combines simplicity and sophistication. The lodge offers single and double rooms, a spacious main lounge with fireplace, dining room, hot tub and an open bar. Massages are also available for guests. Every Sunday night, a classic asado (Argentinean barbecue) is served by local gauchos in their covered outside dining area. Rate: $5,040 per person for a 7 night/6 day package Estancia Collon Cura Estancia Collon Cura is located roughly one hour equidistant from both San Martin and Bariloche. The Collon Cura River is created by the convergence of three well known tributaries: the Malleo, the Alumine and the Chimehuin rivers. This large willow-lined river is known for its deep slow pools, shallow runs, cut banks and long riffles, which support healthy populations of rainbows and browns. The lodge is simple yet comfortable, peaceful and pleasant. Rate: $5,040 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Patagonia
Late March and April often produce the biggest brightest fish of the season. Photo: Diego Peralta
Jurassic Lake Lodge
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f we were put on the spot and asked specifically Unquestionably the or incomprehensible, but for simplicity and where the most prolific 100 yards of trophy accuracy let us call it the one and only Jurassic most prolific trophy trout water in the world was, our response would Lake Lodge. rainbow trout lodge be instant and our tone would be confident. “It Jurassic Lake is nothing short of a bioin the world is where Argentina’s Rio Barrancoso flows into logical anomaly and is the most prolific trophy Lago Strobel.” We have been there and fished it and must say rainbow fishery on the planet. The lake itself is a large desert that in all our years of fly fishing we have never seen, heard of sink lake teeming with small scuds and massive rainbow trout. or experienced anything remotely like it. Some label it surreal Here, the rainbow trout average over 10 pounds with countless fish in the mid-teens as well as good numbers of fish into the 20-plus class. These fish are extremely stout and most are incredibly strong and acrobatic. The lodge (previously known as the Loop/Solid Adventures Camp) has the good fortune of being located at the mouth of Jurassic Lake’s only significant tributary. With no outlet, this is far and away the best location on the lake with anglers stacking up big numbers of big fish virtually every day of the season. The newly remodeled and improved facility has five double occupancy rooms with private bath and shower, enlarged main lodge and dining room, increased fishing access and additional guides, and most importantly, round-trip charter flight service to the lodge making this the most comfortable Jurassic trip ever. Rate: $4,430-$6,130 per person for a 7 night/6 ½ day package PAGE 76
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Patagonia
Kooi Noom
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comfortable farmhouse known as Estancia ooi Noom is potentially the most Sight fish steep Capitan. The beautiful family-run estancia unique, rugged, and remote trophy freestones, small creeks sits on 50,000 acres adjoining some of the rainbow trout venue in all of Patagonia. Set and trophy stillwaters better fishing grounds. In addition to auin the foothills of the Andes in the Santa in true wilderness thentic Argentine hospitality, it offers guests Cruz province of southern Argentina, Kooi solitude. three double rooms with private bathrooms, Noom’s surrounding landscape embodies a dining room, and a cozy living room where anglers can sip most everything that makes Patagonia great — it’s vast, wild, whiskey and fine wines after fishing. harsh and stunningly beautiful. This program combines During a week stay, anglers will be able to sample a the comfort of a full service lodge with a tremendous variwide range of fisheries including a large lake, a few smaller ety of fishing opportunities, ranging from intimate spring productive lagunas, one very steep and interesting river, and creeks to trophy lakes to mind-blowing sight fishing in steep a few intimate spring creeks. All beats are within four miles pocket water. For adventuresome anglers who enjoy the of the lodge and are accessed by either four-wheel-drive challenge of the elements, rugged terrain and diverse fly fishing truck or 4x4 side-by-side. This area has been fished by few scenarios, with shots at some very large rainbow trout, few anglers and offers lots of fish in the 4 to 10-pound class as well other places compare. as some fish reaching into the 20-pound class. Kooi Noom, which translates into “the fish path” in the Rate: $4,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package indigenous Tehuelche language, is based out of a remote and
Anglers dropping into the ever-impressive Rio Capitan. Photo: Ken Morrish
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Patagonia
An evening rainbow over the surreal steelhead waters of Argentina’s Rio Santa Cruz. Photo: Ken Morrish
Tres Amigos Outfitters
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res Amigos Outfitters is cooperative effort between three close friends with decades of combined experience guiding and managing lodges on their home waters in the Santa Cruz province of Southern Patagonia. Together they created and unveiled three incredibly unique and fresh semi-wilderness fly fishing programs where anglers can fish for Atlantic steelhead, large Atlantic-run Chinook salmon and oversized spring creek brook trout.
Los Plateados Lodge, Rio Santa Cruz Atlantic Steelhead NEW While there are a great many appealing and productive steelhead rivers in the world, the argument for Argentina’s mighty Rio Santa Cruz being far and away the most unique is near bulletproof. The reasons are many: its massive size, the harsh and surreal Dali-esque landscape through which it flows, the subtlety of its lies and structure and the trump card that it’s the only prolific Atlantic steelhead return in the world. We have no real idea as to how many fish it holds but what we do know is that after more than a decade of scouting by some of Argentina’s top guides, its secrets have been revealed exposing a consistent and viable gem that might possibly be the last major river to be added to the canon of steelhead classics. Like many steelhead rivers, the fish here average 9 to 10 pounds but what is unusual is that one in ten of these fish is likely over 20 pounds! While anglers have 30 proven pools and runs to fish, Los Plateados Lodge was built to host only four anglers per week ensuring all guests the best shot at quality water each and every day. This intimate riverside lodge offers both boat and vehicle PAGE 78
access to prime runs, exceptional guides, and delicious meals paired with fine Argentine wines. Rate: $4,550 per person for a 6 night/6 day package Glacier King NEW The pristine headwaters of the mighty Caterina River flow through some of the most picturesque scenery in all of Argentine Patagonia and sustain the only known run of king salmon on the entire Atlantic seaboard. Estancia Cristina Lodge, which is located just outside the boundary of Los Glaciares National Park, is the base for a one-of-a-kind program where fly anglers target the big kings of the Caterina River before it flows into the massive Lago Argentino. With exclusive fishing access, fine accommodations with a warm yet rustic feel, unique regional gourmet cuisine and experienced local guides, this not-to-be missed program should rank highly among worldly anglers who thought they’ve seen it all. Rate: $3,570 per person for a 3 night/3 day package The Route of the Spring Creeks NEW This boutique-style fly fishing program takes anglers on a truly authentic journey combining the best brook and brown trout fishing in southern Patagonia with stays at three traditional Argentine estancias. Limited to only two rods per week this intimate program gives anglers the opportunity to fish four completely private spring creeks which hold brook trout in the 4 to 6-pound class. This small homestay-style venue is a treasure within the vast open southern Patagonian landscape. Rate: $3,395 per person for a 5 night/6 day package
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Sea Trout
Las Buitreras
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ust north of the Straits of Magellan in The most sophisticated, otherworldly and the likelihood is high that sublime and secluded southeastern-most Argentina flows the you might find yourself fishing alongside sea trout fishery lovely and incomparable Rio Gallegos River. silver foxes, guanacos, rheas, flamingos and in Argentina For many a seasoned rod, this lovely lowwild horses. Fishing for the mighty sea run gradient system and the charming Las Buitreras lodge that browns of the Rio Gallegos can be very challenging but also serves it represent the pinnacle sea trout experience. Why? incredibly rewarding. Together with the highly skilled and Well, the reasons are many, beginning with that fact that the experienced guides of Las Buitreras, the warm charm of the international and eclectic cast of anglers that visit the lodge Argentinean culture and the extreme beauty of this pristine are essentially the only anglers on the entire system. Add to and unpressured system, you’re assured to have the angling that huge beats of well-rested water, incredible wildlife, some adventure of a lifetime. of Argentina’s most skilled guides and a chance at some of the Rate: $5,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package largest and best-fighting sea trout in the world and you will start to understand the loyalty of the river’s many followers. As the only lodge on the river, the 290,000 acre Estancia Las Buitreras has private access to over 24 miles of river (on both sides) with 50 named pools. The lodge itself is full of rustic charm and modern conveniences. It features seven comfortable rooms, traditional camp styling, a large veranda, a spacious wind-protected courtyard, a fully stocked beer and wine bar and a beautiful covered terrace complete with a stone grill where they host their weekly classic Argentine asado. The spectacular beauty of the Gallegos watershed is
The languid Rio Gallegos is the longest and loveliest of the world’s sea trout rivers. Photo: Ken Morrish
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Sea Trout
On the Rio Grande, the last hour of light often provides the best fishing of the entire day. Photo: Ken Morrish
Estancia Despedida
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longtime Fly Water favorite, Estancia Small, unassuming and At its core, Estancia Despedida is a family-run Despedida embodies many of the charstrategically located operation with an intimate atmosphere which acteristics we value most in a lodge including on the best pools of the permeates every aspect of the place. Danny a small number of weekly guests, colorful world’s most prolific and Helen Lajous have been hosting fishhands-on owner operators, great Argentine sea trout system ermen on the Rio Grande for roughly two guides and a genuine desire to spend long hours on the water. decades. With a very high return rate, guests at Despedida have Limited to six anglers per week, Despedida is close to their come to appreciate the incredibly warm and genuine hospitality fishing grounds which the locals refer to as “corazon del rio,” that comes from the Lajous family and their dedicated team of or the “the heart of the river.” Here in this section of the Rio fly fishing professionals. The most distant pools on the ranch Grande, sandwiched conveniently between the Rio Grandes’s are only minutes from the lodge, minimizing drive times and two key tributaries, Ona and Menendez, the question is never maximizing time spent on the water. “if ” you are fishing over fish, but rather “how many, how big For hardcore anglers who appreciate long hours on the and how willing.” water, short drive times and a great value, Despedida delivers! Come experience firsthand the section of the river so many huge sea trout call home. The tastefully designed wood and stone lodge is reminiscent of a main house on a classic Patagonian estancia. The main room features ample seating around a central stone fireplace and its four large bedrooms have private baths and covered porches with incredible views of Cerro Desnudo, a beautiful peak within the Andes. Add to this exceptional service, gourmet meals featuring locally grown organic produce and beef, and fine Argentine wines, and you will see why this is an operation whose future is incredibly bright. Rate: $5,900 per person for a 7 night/6 day package PAGE 80
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Las Pampas Lodge The Essence of Patagonia
Privacy and poetic beauty in Argentina’s upper Rio Pico region. Photo: Bryan Gregson
By Kyle Kolodziejski
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as Pampas’ head guide Martin had me at “hello.” You rarely know what you are in for before it actually happens, but this time, shaking his hand in the tiny Esquel airport, I somehow knew that my ultimate Patagonian trout fishing experience had already begun. My hunch was spot-on, and while it took months for the details and nuances of the experience to fully sink in, I can now clearly identify all the elements that, in my mind, make Las Pampas Lodge the quintessential Argentine trout fishing operation. Its unique location, welcoming staff-driven atmosphere and its highly diverse multi-species trout fishing program combine to make this a Patagonian classic that is extremely hard to beat.
Gem of Chubut As Martin and I began the three-hour drive south from the airport to the lodge, I thought I was getting a feeling for what our final destination’s landscape would be like. Not so. In the first hour we passed through arid lands reminiscent of Utah, then an hour later things looked more like eastern Montana, and then finally regions that reminded me of Yellowstone and Montana’s Paradise Valley. By the time we reached the lodge it became clear that this was a place unto itself, both familiar and totally unique at the same time. Ultimately, we were tucked up against the base of the snowcapped Andes, in a fantastical landscape with endless diversity and intrigue. Well beyond the lush bustle of Bariloche to the north but shy of the harsh,
almost uninhabited steppe typical of the Santa Cruz province to the south, this region of Chubut seemed a mature mix of everything one could want. We were well past where the good roads ended and just outside a tiny border town where the outermost tendrils of rangeland blended into native bush and steep scree-faced peaks. There were countless lakes, rivers and streams and they were virtually ours and ours alone. To those familiar, this region is called Rio Pico and took its name from Octavio Pico who helped engineer the border lines between Chile and Argentina in 1881. It is appropriate that this unique region was named after him and equally appropriate that he was Argentine: drawing the border to deviate from the Pacific/Atlantic divide model and designating the upper 25 miles of the glorious spring-fed, west-flowing Rio Pico as Argentine. It is a remarkable region nestled east of the Andes’ highest peaks where fertile lake systems and multiple spring creeks coalesce into an intimate and iconic South American trout stream, which ultimately slips west across the border into Chile and on to the Pacific.
The Fisheries When it comes to available water types, fishing styles and trout species, Las Pampas Lodge may be unbeatable. With a multitude of spring creeks, small to medium-size freestone rivers, and trophy still waters as well as a mix of rainbow, brown, and brook trout all within a relatively small radius, anglers are
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LAS PAMPAS LODGE presented with far more options than they could experience in a two or even three-week stay. This provides anglers the opportunity to sample multiple different types of water during their stay or concentrate solely on those they most prefer. Generally speaking, rainbow trout make up the quantity of one’s catch with brown trout providing the size. Highlights of some of the key systems follow.
guests to both blind cast and sight cast large dry flies towards the banks. While many northern hemisphere anglers immediately dismiss the thought of lake fishing, we feel it remiss to visit this region without giving it a go. Not only do these lakes produce the region’s largest fish but they also can provide very exciting fishing complete with crushing top-water takes and memorable sight fishing opportunities.
The Rivers: The Rio Pico begins as a small willow-lined Finding Fontinalis: In late March and April some very spring creek and grows quickly as additional spring creeks and specific waters in the Las Pampas lineup mature and offer visiting small freestone rivers add to its volume. These upper reaches anglers a unique chance to target some of the world’s largest brook are accessed very easily by Las Pampas Lodge. As the river trout. During the majority of the season these monster flows westward, the Pico breaks into multiple channels brookies inhabit a number of key lakes where they are hard that flow swiftly through open pasturelands. Below to catch, but in the austral fall they migrate up a numthe channels the Pico is joined by two small freestones, ber of key rivers including the Rio Corcovado and the first by the Rio Pampas and further downstream by Rio El Tigre where they become easier to target. These Fat A l b er t the Rio Nilson. The next ten miles of the Pico offer systems are hard to reach and are the subject of the abundant and sometimes large rainbows and fewer but larger Patagonia clothing company’s film Finding Fontinalis, in which browns that can surpass the 27-inch mark. Although these the guides at Las Pampas take Patagonia founder Yvon Chouinard sections of the river are public, they are very hard to access, on an expedition in search of the elusive ten-pound brook trout. requiring two things that Las Pampas has: permission from For anglers serious about big brook trout we recommend local landowners and keys to locked gates! All in all, the Pico booking this special extension trip onto a standard lodge stay. offers more than 25 miles of water, endless wade fishing opportunities and five distinct floats before crossing into Chile Fishing Program on its way west through the Andes. One of the most unique elements of the Las Pampas fishing In addition to the much-touted Rio Pico, Las Pampas experience is that every pair of anglers is assigned a guide and Lodge fishes two additional systems, the Rio Pampas and Rio assistant guide each day. At first this might seem overkill but Nilson. These can best be described as medium-sized freestone once the truck pulls up to the first of many gates en route rivers where anglers typically see steady action sight casting to to the fishing grounds it becomes very apparent how much rainbows and browns in the 10 to 20-inch class. Both streams this subtle difference enhances the experience of every angler. offer miles of fantastic walk and wade opportunities. Outside of being the official gate-opener and closer, the assisSpring Creeks: The Rio Pico watershed is home to nearly tant guide is constantly busy in the background and takes care a dozen spring creeks, all of which ultimately feed into the Pico. of the initial setup of client rods, prepares rafts, runs shuttles, Varying greatly in size, length, depth and current speed, each creek and prepares lunch so the main guide can focus on the guests presents its own unique set of angling challenges. For lovers of and creating the best possible experience on the water. small and at times technical waters, these often-overlooked gems Their enthusiastic and passionate guides are the best in have a great deal to offer. Most of these intimate spring creeks the area, and for good reason: they are real locals and they hold surprising numbers of good-sized rainbows and browns that spend the entire 180-day season fishing the Rio Pico region. are all too willing to rise to a well-presented dry fly. With that many days on the water these guys know where Stillwaters: Despite the wide array of river and stream and when to find the best fishing. Typically anglers and guides fishing options, the Rio Pico area is best known to locals for a leave the lodge in the morning in well-equipped 4x4 trucks series of five highly productive lakes scattered throughout the and spend the majority of their drive time on rough, unimregion’s rugged hills. Though each lake has its own nuances, proved backroads that are interesting and adventuresome in they all share similar shorelines dominated by rocky outcroptheir own right. This well-choreographed fishing program depings and thick vegetation. Typically the Las Pampas guides livers a level of customer service and genuine adventure that puts will row their anglers just off the shorelines enabling their Las Pampas in a class by itself.
“Its unique location, welcoming staff-driven atmosphere and its highly diverse multi-species trout fishing program combine to make this a Patagonian classic that is extremely hard to beat.” PAGE 82
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Top: A large brown trout; a tasteful guest room; releasing a large brook trout. Middle: Rafting a secluded reach of the upper Rio Pico. Bottom: Images from after hours at the main lodge. Photos: Bryan Gregson 1-800 -552-2729 PAGE 83
LAS PAMPAS LODGE
“The best aspect of Las Pampas Lodge, other than the superb fishing, is the egalitarian atmosphere at the lodge, where the guides, staff and clients are all part of the family” - Yvon Chouinard, Founder and Owner of Patagonia
Methods: Las Pampas guides are dry fly junkies. They push share it with their guests. At the time of this writing in 2016, Las beyond the boundaries of what most dry fly enthusiasts would Pampas is in its fifth season of operation and the lion’s share of consider optimal top-water conditions. They challenge their Oggy’s 100% local Argentine crew have been with him since day anglers to stick to their guns and use dries at times when most one — something that speaks strongly to what has been created north Americans would back down and switch to subsurface in this special part of Patagonia. techniques. Best of all, they make it work. Despite their strong tendencies to focus on head hunting for rising fish, when The Lodge Experience conditions dictate, they happily switch into their signature “we Las Pampas Lodge is a beautiful European-style log and stone do what we gotta do” mode and approach the water with dry/ structure featuring a main common area with a guest lounge, dropper, nymph, or streamer rigs to get their clients into fish. dining room, and bar which is flanked by four spacious The appropriate gear to most successfully fish the Rio double occupancy guest rooms, all with private baths. Each Pico area is simple and familiar. If you could only bring one guest room opens onto a cobblestone veranda overlooking the rod, a 6-weight rigged with a floating line is without doubt the surrounding mountainous landscape. The inviting main room best all-around option. However, 4 and 5-weight rods have has a central fireplace surrounded by a semicircle of plush their place on some of the smaller spring creeks and when the built-in lounge chairs where guests can gather each evening wind blows hard or when casting sink tips with weighted for cocktails and share their daily adventures. Generally streamers, a 7-weight is nice to have on hand. Another speaking, the lodge has every amenity you’d expect from a unique feature and highlight about Las Pampas Lodge classic trout lodge without being too over-the-top. is that the guides provide all terminal tackle including The cuisine at Las Pampas Lodge is best described leaders, tippets, and flies. No more filling your boxes as gourmet farm-to-table cuisine. Their head chef, a with often-unneeded fly patterns or worrying about graduate of Le Cordon Bleu, is passionate about the how old your tippet is, Las Pampas has you covered. In food he prepares and uses only the freshest local and orMartin’s words, “this way we know every angler has the ganic ingredients. Many of the vegetables are grown El k Hair right stuff for every fishing situation we put them in.” by the community in the nearby town and sold to Cad d is Should you want to fish your own flies, a diverse selecraise funds for the local school. Eduardo, the lodge’s tion of large foam terrestrials along with an assortment of classic full-time caretaker and cameo breakfast cook, collects fresh western dries, nymphs, and streamers will serve you well. eggs daily and prepares fresh cuts of chicken, lamb, and beef from the free-range livestock that roam the property. Local Lodge Culture Breakfast is a standard yet filling meal featuring madeIn addition to stellar fishing, the entire Las Pampas experience to-order eggs, toast, bacon, fruit, coffee, tea, and juice. is infused with a special and incredibly appealing vibe. The staff Lunch is served streamside by your guides and commonly calls this soulful, inclusive, yerba-mate-fueled way of being “Las includes homemade gourmet dishes, salads, beverages, and Pampas Style.” In my eyes, this character-rich friendliness gives desserts. Dinner is served late evening in traditional ArgenLas Pampas Lodge the “it” factor that puts their lodge experience tine fashion and the typical menu is comprised of inspired in a class by itself. They create a relaxed and welcoming atmochoices that range from fresh lamb and vegetarian dishes to sphere that makes every guest feel at home and part of a larger, thick-cut steaks and chops, all of which are paired with local fun-loving family. Argentine wines. With a trusted dream-team at his side, it comes as no surprise All in all, Las Pampas is a truly remarkable place and one that lodge co-owner and general manager Agustin “Oggy” Fox is that I feel fortunate to represent. From its location way out at grateful to have such a fine crew of dedicated individuals to work the end of the road, to its spectacular mountainous backdrop, with. They possess a natural team chemistry that enables them to to the depth and diversity of its fishing program, few places consistently deliver more than just a good day of fishing. It doesn’t can claim all that it offers. Add to that a dedicated, friendly take long after meeting the guides and staff to realize the depth and inclusive local staff, and it comes as no surprise that Las and sincerity of their passion for the region and their eagerness to Pampas Lodge captures the true essence of Patagonia. PAGE 84
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Clockwise from left: One for the region’s five spectacular trophy lakes; author and Fly Water’s South American specialist Kyle Kolodziejski with a typical brown; the moment of truth on the upper braids of Rio Pico; the warm rustic fireplace at Las Pampas Lodge. Photos: Bryan Gregson & Kyle Kolodziejsk
Notes
Travel: Anglers typically overnight in Buenos Aires on Friday, fly to Esquel in the afternoon on Saturday, then transfer by truck to the lodge. Season: November-May Capacity: Eight anglers Essential Tackle: A favorite 6-weight rod with weight forward floating line. Top Flies: Caddis, mayflies, and foam attractor patterns with rubber legs are the go-to dries, red and silver copper johns are staples for nymphing, and assorted dark-colored weighted woolly bugger patterns with rubber legs are a good choice for streamer fishing. 2016 Rate: $5,000 per person for 7 night/6 day package, based on double occupancy.
Bolivia
Tsimane Lodge, Bolivia
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n terms of the ultimate fly fishing adventure, Likely the exclusive rights to the region. They offer two Tsimane has it all. Located in a remote inseparate programs, the Secure/Agua Negra world’s greatest digenous territory of Bolivia where the Andes combination trip and Pluma Lodge. Both trips exotic angling meet the upper Amazon, the freestone rivers will begin with an overnight in Santa Cruz adventure of the region are both familiar and foreign. followed by a charter flight to a remote jungle Each season, hundreds of thousands of baitfish migrate up airstrip. The hardest part of planning the trip is deciding the greater Secure system and with them come thousands of which of the two options to select as they are both highly delarge, aggressively feeding dorado. Here it is common to see sirable and productive. Both programs feature deluxe double packs of fierce dorado herding baitfish into the shallows and occupancy safari-style tents with private bathrooms, covered mercilessly ripping through them. Visiting anglers wet wade decks, storage, lighting, and ceiling fans. Pluma takes eight and cast six-inch flies on wire leaders through an endless array anglers per week and offers a cross section of slightly more of pristine water types. Their reward: consistent catches of rugged terrain while the Secure/Agua Negra program offers pugnacious, aerial dorado in the 8 to 35-pound class as well two separate four-person lodges that anglers transfer between as additional jungle species like the fickle pacu and the elusive mid-week. This program is less physically demanding and ofsurubi. With few exceptions, the many anglers we have sent to fers an unbeatable interface with the native inhabitants. Both Tsimane rate the trip among the top three angling experiences offer the same caliber of world-class fishing. in their (often extensive) careers. Rate: $7,600 + $670 native fee per person for a 9 night/6 Tsimane is operated by an Argentine outfitter with day package Alejandro Biorchetti leans into a large lower Secure dorado. Photo: Ken Morrish
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Brazil
Matt Harris hoists a 20+ pound peacock bass from the Rio Marié. Photo: Matt Harris
Brazilian Peacock Bass Agua Boa Amazon Lodge Located in northern Brazil, the Agua Boa is remarkably clear, with white sand beaches more reminiscent of the Florida Keys than what most would expect of the Amazon jungle. Overlooking the river is the Agua Boa Amazon Lodge, the world’s first operation dedicated exclusively to pursuing peacock bass and other jungle species on the fly. The lodge provides anglers with a level of comfort unrivaled in the Amazon. Guests stay in private, air conditioned bungalows with two queen beds, a sitting area, private bathroom, and a porch overlooking the river. Home to world-class bird watching and wildlife viewing, the lodge also features a swimming pool, entertainment room and other amenities suitable for nonanglers. With over one hundred miles of private water, this is a premier peacock bass destination for discerning fly fishers. Rate: $4,950-$5,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Rio Marié has lived up to its claim of being the greatest trophy peacock bass destination the fly fishing world has ever seen. Anglers enjoy true luxury accommodations on a purpose-built mothership that moves about to unfished water each week. With over 400 miles of private water and seasoned English-speaking Brazilian guides, this is the place to target well-rested double-digit monsters. Be one of the first to experience this wild region that the locals refer to as “Rio de Gigantes”. Their season runs from mid-September through mid-December. Rate: $6,695 + $670 native fee per person for an 8 night/ 6 ½ day package
Rio Marié Deep within the Brazilian rainforest near the border with Columbia lies one of the most remote and exciting peacock bass destinations in the world. After a most successful 2015 season,
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K endjam Call of the Wild
Ramiro Badessich in the heart of southern Brazil’s uniquely clear and pristine Iriri River. Photo: Ken Morrish
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By Ken Morrish
hen my wife Mia said that she wanted to join me on what was likely to be the wildest exploratory trip of my career, I was surprised, excited and a bit concerned. It was not going to be your average site-check, but rather a 65-km downriver camping expedition on an exceedingly remote tributary of the Amazon. In fact, it would be in the heart of one the largest remaining pieces of virgin rainforest in the world, the wild 12-million-acre Kayapo Native Reserve in southern Brazil. It promised to be a trip back in time with native peoples striped in body paint and light-tackle, clear-water sight fishing for a cast of exotic fish species akin to the cantina scene in Star Wars. We made a quick plan. My wife Mia would read River of Doubt, Teddy Roosevelt’s Darkest Journey and if after that she still wanted go, we would jump in together. And jump we did. Now this was by no means our own idea: to fly 3.5 hours over the vast cauliflowered canopy of the southern Amazon Basin and land in an exceedingly remote Kayapo village, mingle with the seemingly pre-contact tribespeople, and then descend another 3.5 hours by motorized canoe down a breathtakingly beautiful river to our first basecamp. It was the culmination of more than two years of research, negotiation and recon by PAGE 88
Rodrigo Salles and Marcelo Perez from Untamed Angling. Best known for bringing adventuresome fly fishers the blessing and beauty of the Tsimane dorado programs in Bolivia, they were now deep into the reapplication of their template in which semi-sovereign indigenous tribes partner with, and benefit from, a constructive yet limited inflow of intrepid fly anglers. In Tsimane, this approach had created a true sensation, resulting in what I consider the most interesting and rewarding new freshwater angling destination in decades. Here, many hours by open canoe downstream of the 100 painted and seemingly reclusive residents of Kendjam, they hoped that they could create something different but equally as special. Mia and I were two of a dozen-plus folks who were able to participate in a selective four-week exploratory season in which fly fishing professionals from three continents gave their honest opinion on the future potential of Untamed’s proposed “Kendjam” program. A bounty of key criteria were here: an unbroken indigenous culture; a huge, humbling tract of uncut rainforest; and a unique multi-species sight fishing experience on the poetically clear, boulder-strewn Iriri River. The Iriri was like no other known Amazon tributary, in that here, anglers armed with a 6 or 7-weight rod could sight cast poppers and
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KENDJAM top-water flies to more than ten exotic species of fish. For the growing wave of new jungle anglers, this destination had the potential of proving the most diverse light-tackle fly fishing adventure available. Our trip, despite the limited comforts promised by most true exploratory trips, was incredibly rich and rewarding from start to finish. Fabulous fishing helped, with eight fly-caught species landed, but it was far more than that. It was one of those rare trips where even without the fishing, it had such depth and integrity that upon our return, we felt ill-equipped to describe it. It was about the Kayapo, their village and ways, the towering jungle, the parade of exotic birds, the cacophony of sunset’s singing insects, monkeys, frogs and owls, and the sublime Japanese garden-like aesthetics of the Iriri’s round-rock banks and vegetated braids. What follows is a description of what makes this budding destination special and what anglers in the future will experience.
The Kayapo and Kendjam The Kayapo’s miraculous emergence into the 21st century with their land, culture and largely subsistence-based lifestyle all still intact is one of indigenous culture’s greatest success
stories. When European involvement in the Amazon took off in 1900, there were 4,000 Kayapo. By 1970 there were less than 1,400, due largely to measles and other introduced diseases. Today, however, the Kayapo are thriving with over 9,000 members and 45 villages spread across a roadless, legally recognized territory half the size of the state of Washington. They are also indirectly famous, as their connectivity to their natural world and the fierceness with which they defend it inspired the storyline of Avatar. Of Brazil’s 250 indigenous tribes, the Kayapo are considered the most prosperous and powerful and of even greater significance is that their connection to their traditions and the natural world upon which they depend remains continuous and unbroken. Of the 45 Kayapo villages, Kendjam may be the most unique. Established only in 1993, Kendjam was the result of a deliberate move by chief Pukatire and his followers to break away from an existing village/band in an effort to create a more traditional community, free of the influences of alcohol and the timber industry. While the duty of chief is now collectively shared by the younger Budyou and Djyty, Pukatire was there to observe and greet our plane as it unloaded near
Mia Morrish with her first wolf fish caught sight fishing with a 6-weight rod. Photo: Ken Morrish
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KENDJAM the shade tree on the red dirt airstrip. Neither he nor any of the Kayapo are particularly outgoing, but rather relaxed, observant and conversationally reserved with outsiders and one another. Pukatire was once quoted as saying, “we only need the white man for three things: eyeglasses, flip-flops and flashlights.” And while he still felt strongly about preserving his people’s traditional lifestyles, he was now embracing a new sustainable model that he hoped would benefit his people without compromising the natural world upon which they depended.
Xingu Peacock Bass (Cichla melaniae): This is a unique
The Iriri River
Wolf Fish (Hoplias lacerdae): If you can imagine a cross
species of peacock bass endemic to the Xingu basin. These bass, which Brazilians generically refer to as tucunare, prefer fast-water environments where they often hold in soft shallows and eddies on the fringes of the current’s force. They average 3-6 pounds with the largest topping 12 pounds. These bass are strong, explode on poppers and provide incredible sport on a favorite 6 to 7-weight rod. Over the course of the week, an estimated 60% of your catch will be made up of these fly-friendly bruisers.
between a wicked toothy lingcod and an air-breathing coelThe 810-mile Iriri River is the 15th-longest river in the acanth, you can imagine what the Brazilians call trairao, or Amazon and the 116th-longest in the world. The Iriri originates wolf fish. Averaging 10-15 pounds on the Iriri, they lie like near the Bolivian border and is a north-flowing tributary of giant fossilized sculpin on the bottom of smaller, glassy, offthe mighty Xingu, which in volume is the world’s 60th-largest current pools waiting to ambush large prey like peacock bass. river, averaging more than 340,000 cfs. But unlike most of the They are among the most bizarre, passive-aggressive, primitive Amazon’s 1,100 dark, winding, snake-like tributaries, the Iriri fish ever pursued. They are hard to spook and at times hard to cuts a steeper, more direct course through the southern basin’s wake up. You often stand rather near them, slapping ancient, jungle-coated granite. Each epoch, the boulders here and slowly chugging poppers above them. become softer, more artistically stacked, more They may take slowly or explosively but pleasing to the eye. The beaches are coarse, clean, more often than not you lose them on a tarpeach-colored decomposed granite and the pon-like jump or because their brutal teeth break wateris a heavenly clear blue-green. Slowly moTequ il a 30-pound wire. No worries. Once they settle down toring across long pools, you watch countless turtles dive Popper they will be more motivated than ever to crush the meters into the deepening green before disappearing. same fly! When it comes to offering anglers a second or a third Each hour you motor downstream of Kendjam, the river chance, no gamefish compares. For the surefooted, the Iriri becomes more intricate, astounding and full of life. I heard offers miles of braided bedrock terrain perfect for sight fishing mention that the nearest settlement of any helpful size was 15 the fierce wolf fish and other jungle species. days downriver during high water, and when we broke one of our last props navigating a skinny side channel, we ponPacu-borracha (Tometes sp. Valenciennes): These curious, dered, for more than a moment, what that actually implied. flat-bodied, algae-eating pacu add immeasurably to the Kendjam The bottom line is this river and the camps to which we were angling experience, due in part to the fast-water environments headed were about as deep into a rich, untouched ecosystem they inhabit. The Iriri has multiple areas where the river braids as presently possible. There were no bridges or roads or even and drops steeply with falls, whitewater chutes, powerful runs contrails, just the vast continuity of a robust and highly funcand long, broken riffles. These areas are best fished on foot tioning natural world. and often entail exciting wet wading coupled with somewhat technical trout-like dead-drift presentations. Anglers are Species Diversity best served by a 6 to 7-weight rod with a floating line and The Xingu basin (pronounced Shingu), of which the Iriri is wide range of green or olive flies tied to a wire leader. These part, is home to more than 450 fish species, 25 of which are fish will hold in incredibly fast water, even in whitewater, endemic. The Iriri itself has quite a few species with at least and can be spotted flashing as they tip sideways to feed. Best 10-12 viable species anglers target with flies. Of those, there of all, these fish, which run from 2 to 4 pounds, fight like are five species that in my mind really stand out, any of which steelhead more than twice their weight, complete with strong alone could carry an average fishing program elsewhere. runs and wild jumps.
“It was about the Kayapo, their village and ways, the towering jungle, the parade of exotic birds, the cacophony of sunset’s singing insects, monkeys, frogs and owls, and the sublime Japanese garden-like aesthetics of the Iriri’s round-rock banks and vegetated braids.” PAGE 90
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Top: Another top-water caught peacock; a friendly caiman; chief Budyou with his daughter. Middle: The author casting a popper from the canoe. Bottom: a hearty bass; fighting the last fish of the1-800 day. Photos: Ken Morrish and Craig Derby. -552-2729 PAGE 91
KENDJAM Matrinxa (Brycon Amazonicus): Known also as jatuarana,
these strong, spooky trout-like fish provide great sport on a 6 weight rod. These fish are very plentiful and often school near shoreline structure and shadows. They are the most wary of the jungle species and present a spring-creek-like challenge that serious trout fishermen will find most appealing. Also, matrinxa go on and off the bite, making them easy at times and near bulletproof at others. They are best fished with rubber-legged dries on long leaders and they jump wildly when hooked. While they can grow to over 10 pounds, most of them are in the 2-5 pound class. Bicuda (Boulengerella maculata): Best described as fresh-
water barracuda, bicuda are fierce, incredibly fast predatory fish that may well be the wildest fighters of all the Kendjam species. They are not plentiful, and often hold in the upper gut of larger pools. The largest specimens are near three feet long and I found them horribly hard to hook and land, going 0 for 6 during my time on the Iriri.
Fishing Program While the Kendjam project remains a work in progress, their program will be based around anglers moving between beats in 25-30’ aluminum canoes propelled by long-tailed outboards. While these boats are slow, they are stable to cast from and well suited to the environment. For each two anglers there will be one guide and two Kayapo boatmen. Untamed Angling is training professional Brazilian fly fishing guides for next season, the majority of which will be coming over from their Rio Marié program. Additionally, guiding and service-based endeavors, let alone catering to the myopic eccentricities of fly anglers, is something completely new to the Kayapo boatmen. While they have proven to be quick studies, this craft, like all others, will take some time. Moving forward, the river will be divided into a number of beats that anglers will rotate between. Virtually all the beats will have plenty of wade fishing and plenty of boat fishing depending on what you prefer or the species you most want to target. For those keen on sight fishing, time spent on foot exploring coves and braids is particularly fruitful.
Things to Come Kendjam will operate from June through the end of August. It will be a six-angler program where guests enjoy deluxe double occupancy safari tents built on large wooden decks overlooking a remote beach some 40 km downstream of the village of Kendjam. Tents will feature comfortable bedding, ceiling fans, showers and toilets, and there will be a dining tent and a solar charging station for guests to use. Considering their location, these may be the best-appointed accommodations in a 700mile radius. There will also be a simple camping-style spike camp an additional 25 km downriver that will open up several additional large beats of water. Anglers will have the option of spending two nights at this camp. Despite the relative comforts of the main camp, Kendjam remains a place for hearty adventure travelers. It will always entail a significant effort to reach the unspoiled riches of the Iriri, and once there, it will mandate a willingness to interface with the jungle in all its glory. While there will be flocks of parrots, three colors of macaws, tapirs, and capybara, there will also be jaguars, rapids, and times when guests will need to help push the boats up channels too skinny to navigate. Likewise, in the river there are countless freshwater stingrays, two species of piranha, lots of curious caimans, seven-foot-long electric eels and the occasional anaconda. Despite that, the Iriri has a bright, friendly, safe feel to it that is hard to describe. As long as one remained mindful of stingrays (the most serious of the safety concerns), all went well, enabling my wife and I to swim/bathe in the river each evening as darkness fell and our headlamps set the watching caimans’ eyes aglow. For us the entire experience was sublime and surreal; rife with colors, creatures, and compelling native culture. To our great surprise, the days were less hot and humid than expected, the nights were fresh and cool, and there were few biting insects to speak of. In so many ways it seemed a paradise, a wild yet welcoming place of warmth and bounty, where we, like our Kayapo hosts, felt for a time our connection and place within the vast continuum of nature’s brilliant order.
Notes
Travel: Anglers will fly to Manaus, Brazil and overnight before taking a Cessna Caravan flight to the village of Kendjam. There, they will boat three hours downstream to the main camp. Season: June-August. The water will tend to be lower later in the season and this will make travel slower. Capacity: Six anglers Essential Tackle: 6 to 7-weight rods with a weight forward floating line. Top Flies: Tequila popper, Puglisi baitfish, olive woolly bugger 2016 Rates: $6,500 plus $650 Native Community fee per person
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Top: Clear night skies over the 2015 exploratory camp. Middle: In search of the fast water dwelling pacu boratcha; releasing a hefty wolf fish. Bottom: Robin with a hard fighting pacu boratcha; Craig Derby sight casts for spooky matrinxa; Ramiro and the author kicking back 1-800 -552-2729 PAGE 93 with the chief in the village of Kendjam. Photos: Ken Morrish and Craig Derby
RUSSIA
Bryan Sohl in the process of being bested by a brutish Kola Peninsula salmon. Photo: Ken Morrish
Russia, Kola Peninsula Yokanga Lodge
Rynda Lodge
For anglers who long for large, challenging anadromous fish in big water, nothing compares to the mighty Yokanga River. The largest fish of the season enter in June and early July and many can exceed 30 pounds. Yokanga offers helicopter-assisted access to many miles of diverse water as well as a comfortable main lodge where anglers enjoy both single and double occupancy rooms with private baths. Rate: £3,500-£10,950 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Just north of the Kharlovka on the Atlantic Salmon Reserve flows the Rynda River, one the peninsula’s most exclusive and under-the-radar trophy systems. With what many consider the most nuanced and interesting trophy water in Russia, outstanding accommodations and a chance at sea-bright fish pushing 30 pounds, this is a gem beyond compare. Anglers enjoy helicopter drops each day and one day on the intimate and completely private Zolotaya River. Rate: $4,500-$19,900 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Kharlovka Lodge This is one of the Kola’s big fish systems. With great accommodations and a brilliant home pool that anglers can fish all night long, this place has it all. Each day anglers are dropped by chopper with their guide to fish their allotted beat on the Kharlovka or the nearby Eastern Litza. With plenty of fish in the 20 to 30-pound class and a few even topping 40 pounds, this is one of the most sought-after systems in the world.
Ryabaga Camp, Ponoi
Rate: $5,000-$20,900 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Rate: $6,990-$15,490 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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For consistent and high catch rates, the Kola’s Ponoi River remains the ultimate venue. The famous Ryabaga Camp remains a true classic on the peninsula. With comfortable accommodations, plenty of fishing from the boat and a prime season in both June and September, this is a system that continues to deliver year after year.
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RUSSIA
Gremikha Camp, Yokanga
Umba Lodge
For ultra-hardcore anglers that want a chance at the biggest and hottest fish on the peninsula without breaking the bank, this ten-person tent camp on the lower Yokanga is the place. Anglers hike to their beats and use watercrafts to cross in specified areas. This may be the most physically demanding trip we offer, but the rewards are worth it!
The Umba is a Russian classic with endless water types, big fish, gorgeous scenery and a long season. It is also one of the most economical offerings on the Kola Peninsula. This venue is best suited to highly experienced, physically fit anglers who are willing to work hard for their fish. Anglers enjoy double occupancy rooms and a comfortable main lodge overlooking a great home pool. For serious anglers looking for a serious value and a chance at quality salmon, this is the place.
Rate: £4,000-£5,500 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
Rate: €3,050-€3,850 per person for a 7 night/6 day package
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Iceland & Norway
The Falls Pool on Iceland’s famous West Ranga River. Photo: Angling Club Lax’a
Iceland & Norway West Ranga, Iceland
Blanda, Iceland
In recent years, Iceland’s West Ranga has filled the niche of the country’s top producer of fly-caught Atlantic salmon. On a good year this can mean more than 10,000 fish landed for the season. The West Ranga is a classic Icelandic river with gentle flats and long gliding runs, punctuated by impressive multitiered falls. Originating near the foot of Mt. Hekla, the Ranga is rarely low and seldom colored, making it one of the world’s most consistent Atlantic salmon fisheries. Hosting 12 to 16 anglers per week, the fly fishing lodge on the West Ranga is both modest and comfortable, featuring private baths in all rooms. Anglers can also “share a rod,” thus reducing the weekly rate per person. For those of you interested in the mystique of Icelandic rivers, this is the system to see. Rate: $1,005-$2,030 per person, per day for a full rod, or $695-$1,070 per person for a shared rod
As the country’s longest and most powerful river, it is no surprise that the salmon ascending the Blanda’s numerous chutes and rapids are among Iceland’s strongest. Widely recognized as Iceland’s best June river, the Blanda fishes from June 6 through September 20. Blanda fish average about 10 pounds but fish over 20 pounds are not uncommon and are part of the appeal of this large and challenging river. Blanda’s riverfront lodge is a full-service operation that features 12 double bedrooms with private baths. Anglers fish two per guide and spaces are limited. Rate: $1,415-$2,030 per person, per day for a full rod, or $900-$1,210 per person for a shared rod
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Iceland & Norway
East Ranga, Iceland
Laxa in Kjos, Iceland
Located 70 minutes from Reykjavik, the East Ranga is one of Iceland’s most famous and productive systems. Characterized by big water and easy wading, this is a favorite among spey anglers who want a chance at big fish while enjoying comfortable full-service accommodations. Rate: $1,005-$2,030 per person, per day for a full rod, or $695-$1,070 per person for a shared rod
Were you to design the perfect Icelandic river, say, a mediumsized one with falls and canyons in its upper reaches and a gentle valley below, you may well come up with Laxa in Kjos. With a handsome lodge for 8 to 10 fishermen, 14 miles of fishable river and strong returns of wild fish that are best targeted with single-handed rods, this easy-to-reach classic is not to be missed. Rate: £4,000-£5,500 per person for a 4 night/4 day package
Stora Laxa, Iceland
Hafralonsa, Iceland
For anglers looking for the ultimate self-catered experience, look no further than Stora Laxa. With its upper beats winging through rugged canyons and the lower beats spreading out across a gentle valley, this incredibly scenic system and its hard-fighting wild fish offer anglers spectacular fishing from mid-July through September. Fully catered, guided packages also available. Rate: $385-$1,360 per person, per day for unguided selfcatered packages
In the remote northeast corner of Iceland flows a special river that is reserved for only four anglers a week. Hafralonsa is a system of extremes. Not only does it boast large fish, but its upper beats offer some of the most adventurous canyon fishing imaginable, while its lower sections are broad and easier. This is the perfect system for a private party of four looking for a remote and rustic experience. Rate: £3,900-£4,720 per person for a 4 night/4 day package
Midfjardara, Iceland For single-hand anglers keen on small flies and a wide variety of technical fishing the Midfjardara is Iceland’s ultimate system. With two intimate tributaries and the main river, this complex offers over 200 named pools and large beats that assure both solitude and a good workout. With exceptional scenery, skilled guides and excellent accommodations this program offers one of Iceland’s most classic and captivating experiences. Rate: £750-£2,000 per person per day
Norwegian Flyfishers Club Forty-five minutes from Trondheim flows the remarkable undammed Gaula River. Known for its extremely large Atlantic salmon, this is an essential system for anglers in search of fish exceeding 30 and sometimes 40 pounds. The NFC offers a wide variety of beats with a 24-hour fishing program broken down into four six-hour sessions. Most anglers are happy with two sessions per day, but additional fishing is available for the diehards. Anglers enjoy great accommodations and flexible stay lengths making it a great destination for a full week of fishing or for anglers wanting to add a few days of fishing to an extended Norwegian tour. Rate: $950-$1420 per person per day
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Mongolia
Sweetwater guide Jako Lucas hoists a hefty Mongolian taimen. Photo: Cpt. Jack Films
Mongolia
M
ongolia is a wild, unbroken land reminiscent of Montana and the American West before settlement. Here you will find some of the world’s largest remaining tracts of true wilderness, rich with clear, free-flowing rivers and vast golden forests of birch, aspen, larch and alder. The country’s stunning scenery is complemented by a rich and fascinating nomadic culture and some of the most interesting fishing on the planet. Mongolia offers two distinct fisheries. The first is classic trout fishing for lenok (Asian trout), grayling, and the occasional amur trout. These often overlooked fisheries unquestionably rank among the best trout fisheries in the world today. Summer months bring outstanding terrestrial activity, and trout ranging from PAGE 98
14 to 24 inches provide consistent action for anglers of all skill levels. Despite the spectacular trout fishing, the big draw to Mongolia remains the world’s largest salmonid, the taimen: a vicious surface-oriented predator known for its explosive dry fly takes. While these unique fish average 28 to 30 inches, anglers have landed fish in excess of 60 inches and had encounters with fish estimated at over 100 pounds! What is more remarkable is that the vast majority of these specimens are caught while skating large dry flies through classic steelhead-like runs. In the end, Mongolia proves to be much more than a fishing trip. Its culture, scenery, people and sense of place seem to transform once-in-a-lifetime visitors into returning regulars.
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Mongolia
Taimen Jet Boat Camp
Wilderness Float Trips
Located in the north central portion of Mongolia, the Vermillion’s original taimen camps offer anglers access to miles of prolific fly water from a comfortable home base. Their two river camps are well-appointed with comfortable 18-foot gers (traditional Mongolian tents) complete with wood stoves, electricity, tables, chairs, and wood floors. Additionally, all camps have hot showers, translators well versed in Mongolian culture and exceptional guides who will help you stalk the huge taimen that call these rivers home. Both spring and fall trips available. Rate: $6,630 per person for a 9 night/6 day package
For the game traveling angler, a float trip through the wilds of outer Mongolia represents one of the ultimate angling adventures. Rich with native culture, stunning scenery, spectacular lenok trout and grayling fishing and numerous opportunities to hook the exotic and monstrous river taimen, these luxurious wilderness float trips are unlike any other. After a full day of floating and fishing through some of the most pristine and dramatic landscapes imaginable, you will arrive at a fully set up camp complete with a large dining tent, shower tent, multiple outhouse tents, and either traditional Mongolian gers with wood stoves or expedition-style tents complete with cots and bedding. For those that enjoy the peace and solitude of true river time, this is one of the ultimate adventures. Rate: $5,950 per person, per trip
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