Corydoras griseus

Classification

Callichthyidae. Subfamily Corydoradinae

Distribution

Guyana and Brazil.

Habitat

No exact information available.

Maximum Standard Length

2″ (5cm).

Aquarium Size

18″ x 15″ x 12″ (45cm x 37.5cm x 30cm) – 50 litres.

Maintenance

Use a substrate of fine sand and provide shelter in the form of smooth rocks and chunks of bogwood. Areas of thick planting are also appreciated, as is the provision of some floating cover. Also provide some surface turbulence and flow, as it prefers well-oxygenated water. As with all corys, don’t use undergravel filtration, and ensure the substrate is kept scrupulously clean. These catfish are sensitive to poorly-maintained or dirty substrates and can lose their barbels if kept in poor conditions.

Water Conditions

Temperature: 72-79°F (22-26°C)

pH: 6.0 – 7.2

Hardness: 3-15°H

Diet

Will accept most sinking dried foods, as well as small live and frozen varieties such as bloodworm, brine shrimp and chopped earthworm. Feeding a varied diet will ensure the fish are in the best condition.

Behaviour and Compatibility

Very peaceful and suitable for many community tanks. Don’t keep it with anything very large or aggressive. Good tankmates include small characins, cyprinids, anabantoids, dwarf cichlids and other peaceful catfish. Always try to maintain Corydoras in groups as they’re far more confident and active in the presence of conspecifics. A group of at least 6 individuals is suggested.

Sexual Dimorphism

Like most corys, C. griseus is most easily sexed when viewed from above. Females are noticeably rounder and broader-bodied than females, especially when full of eggs.

Reproduction

No captive breeding information is available, but it has been achieved. It can probably be bred in a similar fashion to many other Corydoras species.

Set up the breeding tank (18″ x 12″ x 12″ or similar is a good size), with either a bare bottom, sand or finegravel substrate. Use air-powered sponge or box-type filtration as fry won’t be sucked into these and provide some clumps of vegetation such as java moss. A temperature of around 75°F and a pH of 6.5-7 should be fine. It’s always better to have a higher ratio of males to females when breeding corys and 2 males per female is recommended. Condition the group on a varied diet of live, frozen and dried foods. When the females are visibly full of eggs perform a large (50-70%) water change with cooler water, and increaseoxygenation and flow in the tank. Repeat this daily until the fish spawn.

It’s worth observing a couple of notes on general cory breeding at this point. Many species are seasonal spawners, breeding during the wet season in their native countries. This occurs at the same time of year as the UK winter, so if summer breeding attempts are failing, it may be worth waiting until winter before trying again. Also, some species can take several years to become sexually mature, so be patient. Finally somespecies simply require different tactics, including timing of water changes, oxygenation levels etc. If you aren’t having any luck, don’t be afraid of trying different approaches.

If the fish decide to spawn, they will usually lay their eggs on the tank glass, often in an area where water flow is quite high. Spawning behaviour is characterised by an initial increase in activity and excitement, before males begin to actively pursue females. A receptive female will allow a male to caress her with his barbels, before the pair take up the classic “t-position”, in which the male grasps the females barbels between his pectoral fin and body. He then releases some sperm and it’s thought that this passes through the mouth and gills of the female, being directed towards her pelvic fins. These she uses to form a ‘basket’, into which she deposits a single egg (although up to 4 may be released). Once this is fertilised, she swims away to find a suitable place to deposit the egg, before the cycle is repeated. If you spawn the fish in a group situation, you will often see multiple males chasing a female as she goes to deposit an egg, in an effort to be the next chosen to fertilise eggs.

The adults will eat their spawn given the opportunity, so once spawning is complete you have 2 choices. Either remove the adults and raise the brood in the same tank, or move the eggs and raise the fryelsewhere. If you decide to move the eggs, you’ll find they’re quite robust, and can usually be gently rolled up the glass with a finger. The new container should contain the same water as the spawning tank and be similarly well-oxygenated. Wherever you decide to hatch the eggs, it’s always best to add a few drops ofmethylene blue to the water to prevent fungussing. Even then some eggs will probably fungus, and these should be removed as soon as they’re spotted in order to prevent the fungus spreading. The eggs hatch in 3-4 days and once the fry have used up their yolk sacs, they will accept microworm and brine shrimp nauplii as first foods. The fry seem to be less susceptible to disease when kept over a thin layer ofsand, as opposed to in a bare-bottomed setup.

Notes

There are currently over 180 described species of Corydoras (commonly shortened to “cory”), making it one of the most speciose of all South American fish genera. There are also loads of undescribed species, many of which have been assigned a “C number” for identification purposes. This is a very simple system of numbering and is similar to the L number scheme used to identify undescribed Loricariids. Both systems were implemented by the German aquarium magazine DATZ (Die Aquarien und Terrarienzeitschrift), but have proved to be invaluable tools and are now used widely by aquarists worldwide. It’s partly this tremendousdiversity (along with their undeniably cute looks) that puts corys among the most popular fish in the hobby.

They’re also very peaceful aquarium residents. Although they’ll consume bite-sized items such as eggs orfry, aggression towards other species is virtually unheard of. Intraspecific hostility is similarly unusual, occurring in only a handful of species (mainly being confined to the “long-nosed” varieties). Provided space isn’t an issue this rarely results in physical damage, though. In nature most species occur in large schools and as such do best when kept in a group in captivity.

Most corys are primarily benthic (bottom dwelling), although a handful of exceptions do spend the majority of their time in open water. Unfortunately this behaviour often means that they’re often purchased and sold as scavengers that will “clean the bottom” of your community tank. While they’ll certainly polish off any uneaten morsels that reach the substrate, they won’t keep the substrate “clean” as such. In fact maintenance of the substrate becomes more of a primary concern if your tank contains a few corys, as they can develop nasty infections of the barbels if kept in dirty or otherwise unfavourable conditions. It should also be said that they won’t do well if expected to survive on the scraps of food that escape the fish above. Always use sinking varieties to ensure your corys receive the right amount of food.

All corys are facultative air breathers, meaning they have the ability to breathe atmospheric air to a certain extent if necessary. They possess a modified, highly vascularised intestine to aid in the uptake of atmospheric oxygen. This adaptation allows them to survive if their habitat becomes oxygen-deprived for any reason. In the aquarium you’ll see them darting to the surface to take in gulps of air on occasion. This is perfectly natural and no cause for concern unless water conditions are deteriorating, in which case the frequency of visits to the surface will usually rise correspondingly.

Corys are part of the “armoured” catfish group, and instead of scales possess two rows of bony plates running along the flanks. The genus name is composed of the Greek words cory, meaning helmet and doras, meaning skin (here used incorrectly to denote “armour”). They also have very sharp pectoral finspines, which are easily caught in the mesh of aquarium nets and can also produce a painful “sting” if they penetrate the skin. Care should therefore be exercised when handling or moving corys for any reason.

This is not a particularly common species in the hobby, but is imported occasionally.

Nom scientifique	Corydoras hastatus
Descripteur	Eigenmann & Eigenmann 1888
Famille	Callichthyidés
Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s)	Corydoras australe (Sci) Corydoras à croissant (Fra) Corydoras pygmée (Fra) Dwarf Corydoras (Ang) piqmy corydoras (Ang) Sichelfleck-Panzerwels (All) Ajouter
Taille	Mâle : 3.0 cm, Femelle : 3.0 cm Ideal water parameters for Dwarf Cory Soft to moderately hard (hardness to 15 dGH but preferably below 8 dGH) acidic to slightly basic (pH to 7.2) water, temperature 22-26C/71-79F. Long-term it does better in soft, acidic water. Prefers quiet water without strong currents. Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/dwarf-cory/#ixzz2WlJVz9iY
Origine	Amérique du Sud, Brésil, Etat d’Amazonas. Mato Grosso dans le Rio paraguai; Paraguay dans les affluents du Rio Pilcomayo.
Température	20 °C à 24 °C
pH	5.8 à 6.8
Dureté	3 °d GH à 15 °d GH
Zone de vie	Fond
Description	Corydoras hastatus est un des plus petits Corydoras avec C. habrosus et C. pygmaeus. Corps gris avec une tache noire délimitée par deux taches blanches en haut et en bas de la nageoire caudale.
Espérance de vie
Comportement	A maintenir en groupe. Le sol doit être exempt d’arrête qui peuvent blesser ses barbillons. Alimentation difficile: il n’accepte que de toutes petites proies vivantes. A introduire dans des aquariums matures bien pourvus en mousses et Riccia ainsi qu’en racines. La micro-faune qui s’y développe lui sert de nourriture. Un des rares corydoras qui nage la plupart du temps en pleine eau.
Reproduction	Déjà reproduit en aquarium. La ponte a lieu en position perpendiculaire. Env. 30 oeufs déposés individuellement sur les éléments du décors et aux vitres.
Dimorphisme	Dimorphisme sexuel inexistant. Ideal water parameters for Panda Corydoras Soft to moderately hard (hardness up to 12 dGH), acidic to slightly basic (pH to 7.5) water, temperature 20-26C/70-79F. Wild-caught fish require temperatures at the lower end of this range; tank-raised fish do not last long above the upper end. Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/panda-corydoras/#ixzz2WlI4B9OG

Paracheirodon simulans

Ideal water parameters for Green Neon Tetra

Soft (less than 4 dGH) and acidic (pH 6.0 or below) water essential for long-term health, temperature 23-27C/73-81F. This species is sometimes found in the same waters as the cardinal tetra (termed sympatric) and both fish share identical water parameter requirements.

Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/green-neon-tetra/#ixzz2WlKYgv00

Qualité de l’eau :

pH : 5,5 à 6,5 Dureté : 1 à 10 dGH température : 23 à 28 °C

Cohabitation et comportement :

A conserver en banc d’une dizaine d’individus dans un aquarium de petit volume, typiquement un nano\-aquarium mais pas en pico\-aquarium car un banc prend quand même de la place. Il faut éviter de l’associer aux autres espèces de Néons afin d’éviter toute hybridation.

Alimentation et nourriture :

Franchement omnivore, comme tout petit tétra, le faux-Néon ne pose aucun souci, comme micro-prédateur dans l’alimentation.

Micropoecilia parae

Micropoecilia parae, comes from Guyana and Brazil and used to be rare in the hobby, but the so-called “Red Melanzona” in particular is now available through the better retailers. Both species are extremely variable and occur in numerous colour morphs. The Swamp Guppy is somewhat like a Guppy in shape, though smaller, and the males have bright patches of colour on their dorsal and tail fins. The Red Melanzona is similar in shape and size but males have longitudinal red and black markings on the flanks and tail fins.

Nom scientifique	Micropoecilia parae
Descripteur	(Eigenmann, 1894)
Famille	Poeciliidés
Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s)	Acanthophacelus melanzonus (Sci) Micropoecilia melanzona (Sci) Poecilia melanzona (Sci) Poecilia parae (Sci) Poecilia vivipara parae (Sci) Paramolly (All) Ajouter
Taille	Mâle : 3.0 cm, Femelle : 3.0 cm
Origine	Amérique du sud : Guyane
Température	24 °C à 28 °C
pH	7.0 à 7.5
Dureté	5 °d GH à 10 °d GH
Zone de vie	Surface & Milieu
Description	Poisson fusiforme, ressemble beaucoup a un petit guppy
Espérance de vie	2 ans environ
Comportement	Calme, sociable en intra-spécifique. Les femelles ne sont pas inlassablement pourchassées par les mâles. Les individus ne mangeront que du vivant (nauplie, vers de vase, larve de moustique, artémias), mais les individus d’élevage acceptent sans problème les aliments sec.
Reproduction	Vivipares, les femelles mettent au monde des petits bien formés d’environ 0.5cm Une femelle peut mettre au monde une dizaine de petit, mais une mise bas classique représente entre 6 et 3 petits le plus souvent (moins productif que le guppy).
Dimorphisme	Mâle coloré sur leur corps et un peu sur la nageoire caudale Femelle légèrement colorée sur la caudale, le corps est gris argenté. Elles ont un abdomen rebondis et une tache noir près de la nageoire annale quand elles sont pleines.

Jewels of the Old World: The Aphyosemion georgiae Species Group (Full Article)

Author: Anthony C. Terceira

Photographer: Anthony C. Terceira

Vibrant reds and shimmering blues help these killies take on the starring role in any aquarium.

Killie hobbyists are increasingly keeping and having success with members of the Aphyosemion georgiaespecies group (Scheel, 1968), an assemblage of beautifully colored killifish that barely reach an inch in length. This group’s native range is found within the Ivindo drainage basin in northeastern Gabon, and presumably to the adjacent areas of northern Congo.

Tropical African rainforest drainages, such as the upper Ivindo, have a hierarchical architecture of tributaries, which strongly influence the composition of the cyprinodont community. There are essentially four categories: stagnant pools, permanent rivulets, secondary streamlets, and major streams (Brosset, 1982).

Very small permanent rivulets are insignificant threads of water being 25 to 45 meters (80 to 150 feet) in length and no more than 1 to 3 cm (¼ to 1¼ inches) deep. They house rich, stable communities containing anywhere from 7 to 11 species. Different members of the A. georgiae group are often found living in the same habitat, and it is common to capture more than one member of the group in the same pool.

Brosset and Lachaise (1995) studied the ecology and reproductive biology of these species over an 11-year period from 1970 to 1981. In this area three species, A. cyanostictum, A. georgiae,and A. fulgens, occur in a complex array of sympatric (sharing at least some of the same geographical range) and allopatric (geographically separated) populations. They caught hundreds of A. cyanostictum andA. georgiae in a great number of sites irrespective of the method of capture. On several occasions during their night surveys, they identified A. cyanostictum and A. georgiae males side by side.

The Aphyosemion georgiae Species Group

•    Aphyosemion georgiae Lambert and Géry 1968

•    A. cyanostictum Lambert and Géry 1968

•    A. fulgens Radda 1975

•    A. abacinum Huber 1976

•    A. seegersi Huber 1980

From their observations, no significant segregation was evident between individuals of different species cohabiting in the same microhabitat. Hence the possibility exists that sympatric relatives are also completely syntopic (two or more species commonly occurring together).

In places where they occur together, there are complex competitive interactions. The consequences of these interactions in relation to sexual selection and ultimately gene flow and genetic divergence need more study. Whether this is unique to this group of species or is common for other groups within the genus is unknown (Collier, 2006).

Aphyosemion abacinum is known from only one locality, which is on a cycle path from the northern district to the frontier of the Congo, about 30 km from Mékambo.

The fish of the A. georgiae species group seldom exceed one inch in standard length. In spite of their diminutive size, they are sparkling jewels in the aquarium. Their bold red colors and contrasting electric blue spots shine like jewels when light strikes them.

Males love sparring and displaying; if adequate cover is provided, little harm is done. Their small size demands that they be kept in small, species-specific aquaria, and different populations should be kept separate from one another.

As with many new additions to the hobby, the first arrival of members of the georgiae species group was met with excitement and anticipation. I remember the first pair that I received from Europe in the late 1970s. I carefully prepared a 5-gallon tank with soft (4 to 5 dH) acidic water at a pH of 6.5 and a temperature of 74°F.

The tank was loaded with Java moss and floating plants. The fish were slowly acclimated and soon began consuming live baby brine shrimp and frozen daphnia. I was prepared to begin collecting eggs and raising fry to share with the entire killifish hobby.

Weeks turned to months and I found few eggs; the adults seemed rather lackadaisical and were not active. I collected few eggs and few fry were growing out in smaller containers. Within six months I had lost the adults and fry.

During this time, other killie breeders seemed to be having very little success with this group in general. Plenty of excitement and attention were being paid to the fish, but their availability within the hobby was not growing.

Eventually and slowly, as this was long before the Internet, information began to appear in various publications. Fish were being kept successfully at lower temperatures and they seemed more active. I remember reading about the original collection of Aphyosemion abacinum: The water temperature was 68°F (20°C).

I had forgotten a simple aquarium-keeping rule: Find out as much as you can about the biotope and habitat of the fishes you are trying to keep, especially if you are dealing with wild or F₁(first-generation offspring of wild) fish. I should have known better. I had collected enough native fish during various times of the year to know that ambient air temperatures and water temperatures can be two very different things.

Today more and more killie hobbyists are having success with members of this group. Most are keeping them in the mid- to high 60s. Cool water and patience have become their guiding principle.

There are a few things that I have found out over the years. I just wish I could remember the sources of all of the wonderful ideas that have become a part of my fishkeeping.Casual conversations at local and national meetings with fellow hobbyists sharing success and failure are responsible for many of the practices that I use daily.

Sharing, trying, and modifying suggestions helps one develop and grow more successful with any and all types of fishes. Each fishroom is a unique space. However, there are methods common to all fishkeepers and there is no better way to learn about these methods than with face-to-face discussions.

If you are interested in trying to work with this amazing species group, here are some suggestions.

Keep the pairs or trios in smaller tanks of approximately 5 gallons located in the dimmer parts of your fishroom. Overhead lighting should not be direct. Java moss, which will grow in low light conditions, will work well. If the lighting is too dim for live plants, then the addition of long-fiber peat will work to provide adequate hiding places for both fish and eggs. If there is plenty of cover in the tank, a few fry will hatch and survive with adults.

Another method that has worked well for me is the scoop method, for lack of a better term. I have used this quite successfully;I just wish I could remember where I originally heard this idea.A few pairs or trios of fish are kept in a 5-gallon tank that contains loads of Java moss or long-fiber peat.

I feed them a wide variety of live and frozen foods that include baby brine shrimp, chopped frozen bloodworms, and daphnia—frozen in winter and live in the spring. Since there is not enough light to sustain floating live plants, I place a small amount of floating plastic plants in the middle of the tank, no more than a diameter of 4 inches. Once the fish have been in the tank for at least three weeks, I begin the morning ritual scoop.

Every morning, approximately 15 minutes after the lights are turned on, I lift the cover from the tank. Using a shallow plastic container (the ones that are sold for storage of leftovers or sandwiches), I quickly scoop under the floating plants. You will very often find fry in your container! The fry are removed with an eyedropper and placed in another container to be reared. This is repeated every day or two, and you’ll be amazed at how often fry are captured.

If you wish to pick eggs and incubate them separately, a mop can be substituted for the Java moss or peat. Eggs are slightly less than 1 mm in size and fry require infusoria for the first few days after hatching before they are able to consume live baby brine shrimp or microworms. The fish of the A. georgiae species group can be quite prolific when attention is paid to temperature, live foods, and water changes.

If you are willing to provide the cool conditions required, a wide variety of small live food, and frequent, small partial water changes, you will find that these jewels will become an admirable addition to your hobby.

About the Dwarf Puffer

Species Type: Freshwater Fish
Category: Puffer FishCare Level: Moderate. May tolerate only a narrow range of water parameters, have specific dietary requirements including frozen or even live foods, may have behaviors that severely limit potential tankmates or may require a specialized aquarium setup.

Origin: Endemic to the Kerala region of India and found in lakes and slow-moving rivers with plenty of submerged vegetation, leaf litter and sunken wood.

Compatibility/Temperament: These fish are highly aggressive despite their size If adding tank mates one should use caution as they will nip the fins of slow moving fish.

Description

A truly beautiful fish. Its one of the smallest Puffers to be found. Males will have a dark line that runs down their bellies ( This will darken will sexual maturity and during spawning times.) They will also have more of a yellow belly. Males will also have lines or wringles behind their eyes. Females do not have these traits and their bodys are generally more round then the males.
Even though these fish are small just barely measuring an 1 inch they require tanks big enough to be able to accommondate their personalities and messy habits. These fish are very curious and the tank should be heavily planted and have lots of driftwood in the tank for them to explore. This also serves as a way to break up the line of sight when housing more then one puffer. If the tank is bare they will get bored very easy and start to tank surf(swimming up and down the glass). They will often learn that your presents means food and will come out to the front of the tank anytime you walk near it.

General Rule when housing more then one puffer in the same tank is 1 puffer for the first 10 gallons and then 5 gallons per fish after that. In bigger tanks housing more then one puffer its best to have just one male. Having more then one male in the tank can result in fights and even death.

Dwarf Puffer Diet

Live foods are best such as Black worms, White worms ,and Snails. Frozen foods can be introduced and accepted such as Blood worms, Brine Shrimp, Mysis Shrimp, Daphnia, Tubifex Worms, Glass Worms (mosquito larva), and Krill. (Note Brine Shrimp should not be use for more then a treat as they lack they nutritional value.)

Size

Max size- 1 inch

Minimum Tank Suggestion

5 gallons but preferably 10

Ideal water parameters for Dwarf Puffer

Water chemistry is not a major issue and dwarf puffers adapt well to a broad range of conditions. Provided extremes are avoided. Ideal conditions would be around pH 7.5, 10dH for general maintenance, though somewhat softer conditions may be required for spawning. Temp should be 77 and 82 degrees F.

• Aplocheilus annulatus (Sci)
• Epiplatys annulatus (ancien nom) (Sci)
• Haplochilus annulatus (Sci)
• Panchax annulatus (Sci)
• Killi clown (Fra)
• Killie clown (Fra)
• Banded panchax (Ang)
• Rocket panchax (Ang)
• Ringelhechtling (All)
• Zwerghechtling (All)
• Mâle : 4.0 cm, Femelle : 3.0 cm
• Afrique: Guinée, Liberia, Sierra Leone.
• Température25 °C à 29 °C, 26 °C pour la reproduction
• pH 6.0 à 7.0, 5.5 pour la reproduction
• Dureté 1 °d GH à 5 °d GH, 3 °d GH pour la reproduction
• Zone de vie Surface & Milieu
• Pacifique, mais les jeunes consomment les alevins nouveaux nés. Une hierarchie s’instaure dans le groupe sans pour autant causer trop de bagare

Nom scientifique	Nothobranchius eggersi
Descripteur	Seegers, 1982
Famille	Aplocheilidés
Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s)	Orchideen-Prachtgrundkärpfling (All)
Taille	Mâle : 5.0 cm, Femelle : 4.0 cm
Origine	Ouest de la tanzanie
Température	26 °C à 30 °C, 28 °C pour la reproduction
pH	6.5 à 7.5, 7.5 pour la reproduction
Dureté
Zone de vie	Milieu & Inférieure
Description	Il existe plusieurs variétés de couleur, les blancs à rayure rouge et les bleus rayé rouge. Il a le même que tous les nothobranchius
Espérance de vie	poisson annuel
Comportement	Plutôt bon. Ne pas mélanger plusieurs males dans un bac de 20L sous peine de voir un male mourir, dans de plus gros volumes il n’y a pas de problème pour faire cohabiter plusieurs indivus de la même espece.
Reproduction	Dans la tourbe. Placer ensemble plusieurs mâles (dans un bac de plus de 20L sinon un seul male) et beaucoup de femelles pour éviter la dégénérescence. Mettre une petite boite rempli de tourbe dans laquelle les poissons vont pondre. Remonter régulièrement le pondoir (toutes les 3 ou 4 semaines). Durée d’incubation : 2 mois à 25°C, plus la température est basse plus ca met de temps, ne pas monter trop la température, 25 est l’idéal. L’incubation peut durer jusqu’a 8 mois
	Mâle plus coloré que la femelle et plus gros

Nothobranchius eggersi SEEGERS, 1982

Classification

Order: Cyprinodontiformes Family: Nothobranchiidae

Distribution

Type locality is ‘Rufiji River near Utete, eastern Tanzania’, and this species is apparently endemic to the lower Rufiji including the Selous Game Reserve and freshwater parts of the Rufiji delta region.

Populations in the aquarium hobby include ‘Rufiji river camp’, ‘Kikongono’, ‘Ruhoi River’, ‘Kanga’, ‘Utete’, ‘Saadani Game Reserve’, ‘Ruvu River’, ‘Bagamoyo’, ‘Makurunge’, ‘Killimani’, ‘Chamakwese’, ‘Nyamwage’, ‘Mohoro’, and ‘Ukuni’.

Habitat

Inhabits ephemeral, water-filled depressions, pools and swamps mostly located in lowland floodplains. Water levels in these seasonally-variable habitats typically decrease during the dry season and eventually become completely dessicated for several months each year.

Maximum Standard Length

45 – 50 mm.

Aquarium Size

Unless isolated temporarily for spawning purposes even a single pair should be offered an aquarium with base dimensions of 45 ∗ 30 cm or more.

Maintenance

This species does not require peat although peat moss is often used as a spawning medium.

Water Conditions

Temperature: 20 – 24 °C

pH: 7.0 – 8.2

Hardness: 179 – 536 ppm

Diet

A natural micropredator meaning small live or frozen foods such as Daphnia, Artemia and chopped bloodworm should form the basis of the diet.

Sexual Dimorphism

Males grow larger and are far more colourful than females.

Reproduction

When its natural habitats become dessicated during the dry season the adult fish die, leaving fertilised eggs encased within the substrate. These are resistant to dessication and remain there until the rains return some 5-6 months later at which point the fry hatch and grow very quickly with sexual maturity reached at around 3 weeks of age.

Typical lifespan in the aquarium is 6-16 months and eggs should be stored at a temperature of 70-77°F/21.1-25°C for 3-4 months before being wetted. Some aquarists add a little marine salt to the water in order to reduce the risk of Oödinium, to which the fry are particularly susceptible.

Notes

Wild collections are generally labelled with some form of code in order that they can be told apart, thus limiting the possibility of hybridisation. Examples include ‘Tan 05-43 Kigongo’ in which ‘TAN’ is ‘Tanzania’, ’05′ the year of collection (2005), and ’43 Kigongo’ collection locality, or ‘Ukuni TZ 2008-27′ in which the locality is names first, ‘TZ’ represents ‘Tanzania’, ’2008′ the year and ’27′ locality number.

There also exist aquarium strains which are normally labelled simply as ‘red’ or ‘blue’ depending on the predominant body colour.

Nom scientifique	Nothobranchius guentheri
Descripteur	Pfeffer, 1893
Famille	Nothobranchiidés
Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s)	Adiniops guentheri (Sci) Aphyosemion guentheri (Sci) Fundulus guentheri (Sci) Notobranchius guentheri (Sci) Nothobranche de Guenther (Fra) Redtail notho (Ang) Günthers Prachtgrundkärpfling (All) Ajouter
Taille	Mâle : 7.0 cm, Femelle : 5.0 cm
Origine	Afrique Occidentale – Découvert à Zanzibar
Température	22 °C à 26 °C
pH	6.5 à 7.0
Dureté	4 °d GH à 10 °d GH
Zone de vie	Surface
Description	Poisson tres coloré.Le mâle se différencie du “Nothobranchius rachovii” par sa nageoire caudale de couleur plus uniformement colorée.(rouge)Le “Nothobranchius rachovii” dispose d’une ligne noire au bout de sa nageoire caudale, tout comme le N.guentheri.
Espérance de vie	12 mois.(Killie annuel)
Comportement	SociableReproduction : Le mâle enserre la femelle entre ses nageoires dorsale et anale en une sorte de demi-cercle et en l’obligeant à toucher la tourbe pulpeuse. Les vibrations de l’étreinte permettent à l’oeuf, qui mesure moins de 1 mm, d’être recouvert de tourbe et se trouver à l’abri de la lumière et des parents.Bac spécifique préférable.
Reproduction	Eckert (1964:57) maintint les poissons dans un bac en verre avec une couche de tourbe de 3-cm d’épaisseur sur le fond et rempli d’eau de pluie sans chauffage. Il y plaça une ou deux paires de jeunes poissons (poissons d’environ 4 cm de long) et les nourri abondamment de larves de moustiques, de Tubifex, de puces d’eau et d’Enchytrés. Eckert (1964:58) mentionna déjà que N.guentheri était un pondeur continu. Après quelques 6 semaines, il retira les poissons et récupéra la tourbe avec les oeufs fécondés. Cette tourbe dégoulinante fut placée dans un récipient et laissée à sécher à température ambiante. Ceci pouvait durer aussi longtemps que la tourbe était encore humide. Lorsque la tourbe était devenue “humide-sèche”, il la remua une dernière fois pour laisser pénétrer l’air. Il ferma ensuite le récipient d’un couvercle et l’entreposa. Eckert (1964:58) rapporte que ce n’est qu’après six mois de repos que les oeufs avaient terminé leur développement embryonnaire et pouvaient être éclos.

Indostomus crocodylus (Sci) Mâle : 2.5 cm, Femelle : 2.5 cm Ce poisson à un excellent comportement inter et intra-spécifique. Il est préférable de privilégier sa maintenance en bac spécifique. Toutefois la cohabitation avec de petites espèces calmes est envisageable, mais il sera indispensable de contrôler avec rigueur que les poissons ne souffrent pas de concurrence alimentaire. Pour plus d’information, ce reporter à la fiche Indostomus paradoxus. Asie , Thaïlande Température24 °C à 26 °C pH 5.5 à 6.5 Dureté 4 °d GH à 8 °d GH Zone de vie Milieu & Inférieure

Neohomaloptera johorensis 2 cm

Nom scientifique	Neohomaloptera johorensis
Descripteur	Herre, 1944
Famille	Balitoridés
Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s)	Homaloptera johorensis (Sci) Poisson lézard (Sci) Poisson gecko (Fra) Ajouter
Taille	3.0 cm
Origine	Malaisie et Indonésie
Température	23 °C à 26 °C
pH	6.3 à 7.0
Dureté
Zone de vie	Fond
Description	Possède trois paires de barbillons donc attention au quartz pour ne pas les abîmer. Il s’agit d’une des espèces les plus colorées de la famille, la couleur va jusqu’au orange, on distingue sur la partie ventrale une tache rouge, c’est son coeur. Il doit vivre dans des eaux très propres et oxygénées.
Espérance de vie
Comportement	C’est un poisson plutôt timide, attention à la concurrence alimentaire, sachant en plus que Neohomaloptera johorensis est un fin gourmet, il n’accepte pas la nourriture sèche mais adore les larves ou crevettes.
Reproduction	Ces poissons mangent oeufs et alevins.
	Les femelles ont un ventre un peu plus grosKottelatlimia pristes

Trigonostigma hengeli 4cm Nom scientifique  Trigonostigma hengeli Descripteur Meinken, 1956 Famille Cyprinidés Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) Rasbora hengeli (Sci) Glowlight rasbora (Ang) Hengel’s Rasbora (Ang) Ajouter Taille Mâle : 3.0 cm, Femelle : 3.0 cm Origine Asie (Sumatra et Borneo), Indonésie. Température 23 °C à 28 °C pH  6.0 à 7.0 Dureté  5 °d GH à 12 °d GH Zone de vie Milieu Description La forme de la tache est assez proche du T. espei et elle est surlignée d’un trait orange lumineux; par contre, la coloration du corps dans son ensemble est nettement moins vive. Espérance de vie 3 Comportement Poisson paisible et grégaire à maintenir en banc de 8-10 individus minimum. Reproduction ? Ideal water parameters for Hengels Rasbora Soft to moderately hard (hardness to 10 dGH), acidic (pH 5.5 to 7.0) water, temperature 23-28C/73-82F. Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/hengels-rasbora/#ixzz2WlPYPVYY Pseudomugil gertrudae 3cm Nom scientifique  Pseudomugil gertrudae Descripteur Weber, 1911 Famille Pseudomugilidés Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) Spotted blue-eye (Ang) Geflecktes Blauauge (All) Gepunkteter Regenbogenfisch (All) Gertruds Regenbogenfisch (All) Ajouter Taille Mâle : 3.0 cm, Femelle : 3.0 cm Origine Asie et Océanie: Australie et Nouvelle Guinée Température 23 °C à 30 °C, 25 °C pour la reproduction pH  5.2 à 7.2, 7.0 pour la reproduction Dureté  5 °d GH à 10 °d GH Zone de vie Surface & Milieu Description Petite espèce argentée, jaunâtre ou verdâtre, très variable. Caractérisée par les nombreux points qui ornent ses nageoires Espérance de vie 3 ans Comportement Pacifique, bien que les mâles soient parfois très démonstratifs.poisson à maintenir en banc (pas moins de 10 spécimens) avec plus de femelles que de mâles. Reproduction La femelle pond une dizaine d’œufs par accouplement. Ils mesurent 1mm environ. L’incubation dure 9 à 11 jours. Dimorphisme Le mâle a les nageoires plus développées et colorées que celles des femelles. Parasphaerichthys lineatus1,9cm Nom scientifique  Parasphaerichthys lineatus Descripteur Britz & Kottelat, 2002 Famille Osphronemidés Synonyme(s) ou Nom(s) commun(s) Parasphaerichthys sp (Sci) Ajouter Taille Mâle : 1.9 cm, Femelle : 1.9 cm Origine Asie: sud du Myanmar Température 22 °C à 29 °C pH  6.5 à 7.8 Dureté  18 °d GH à 18 °d GH Zone de vie Surface & Milieu

About the Eyespot Gourami

Species Type: Freshwater Fish
Category: AnabantidsCare Level: Difficult

This fish may have multiple properties that make a fish moderately difficult to care for and is therefore only recommended to experienced fishkeepers who have had success in dealing with species that may have particular care requirements.

Origin: Believed to be endemic to Myanmar. Found in small muddy streams high up in the mountains.

Compatibility/Temperament: Males are naturally somewhat aggressive to each other, but otherwise a peaceful, quiet and shy fish that should either be kept in a species aquarium or with small, peaceful fish such as the small rasbora, etc. Seems to do best in a small group of 6 or so.

Description

Not often seen in the hobby, this is a very quiet and shy fish, more suitable for experienced aquarists. It is sometimes commonly called the Myanmar Chocolate Gourami or the False Chocolate Gourami, and although outwardly it bears little resemblance, some ichthyologists believe they are very closely related.

A very well-planted tank with places to hide and dim light seems to suit this species best and it will be less withdrawn. It tolerates cooler temperatures than other gourami, and some authors note that it seems to fare better at lower temperatures. It’s spawning method is unknown.

The fish was described in 1929 by B. Prashad and D.D. Mukerji. The genus name comes from the Greek para (the side of) and sphere (sphere) and ichthys (fish). The species name (and the common name “eyespot”) refers to the large dark spot on the side of the fish. It is one of only two species in the genus; the other is P. lineatus, described in 2002 by Britz & Kottelat, and even more rare in the hobby than the subject species. In the photos above, the first is the subject species P. ocellatus, and the second is P. lineatus.

Eyespot Gourami Diet

Small live and/or frozen foods may be necessary. Artemia (brine shrimp) and daphnia seem appropriate. In typical gourami fashion, it spends the day browsing every surface for minuscule food particles.

Size

Attains 4 cm (1.6 inches).

Minimum Tank Suggestion

10 gallons.

Ideal water parameters for Eyespot Gourami

Soft (< 10 dGH), acidic to slightly basic (pH 6 to 7.5) water, temperature 22-26C/70-79F.

Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/eyespot-gourami/#ixzz2WlQ7j9Bu

Parasphaerichthys lineatus BRITZ & KOTTELAT, 2002

Etymology

Parasphaerichthys:  from the Latin para, meaning ‘beside’, and the generic name Osphromenus.

lineatus: from the Latin lineatus, meaning ‘lined’, in reference to the midlateral stripe on each side of the body.

Classification

Order: Perciformes Family: Osphronemidae

Distribution

The type locality is a pool by the name of Hmoain located within the northern part of the Irrawaddy riverdelta near the town of Einme, Myanmar.

P. lineatus is likely to occur in other parts of the delta region, to which it may also be endemic, but the full extent of its distribution is unclear.

Habitat

In March 2003 the type locality measured around 20 m x 4 m and maximum depth was about 1 metre.

The water was clear with a temperature of 29°C/84.2°F, pH was 7.1, substrate composed of mud and there were dense growths of aquatic plants in the form of Nelumbo and Eichhornia spp.

Other fish species included Dario hysginon, Indostomus paradoxus and Chaudhuria ritvae.

Britz (2010) notes that the tropical cyclone Nargis, the worst natural disaster ever to occur in Myanmar, hit the Irrawaddy delta on 2 May 2008 and caused widespread devastation, though its effect on the pool and other aquatic habitats is unknown.

Maximum Standard Length

15 – 19 mm; the smallest member of the family Osphronemidae.

Aquarium Size

An aquarium with base dimensions of 40 ∗ 20 cm or more is large enough to house a group.

Maintenance

Fares best in a well-planted set-up with a soft substrate although fine-grade gravel is acceptable.

Driftwood roots or branches, floating plants and leaf litter can all be added to lend a more natural feel and further increase structural complexity while also serving to diffuse the light entering the tank, while lengths of suitably-sized plastic piping or empty camera film containers can also provide useful refuges.

It naturally inhabits sluggish or still environments therefore filtration, or at least water flow, should not be very strong, and if using leaves and wood do not allow the water to become tannin-stained as this species naturally inhabits clear water.

Water Conditions

Temperature: Active over a temperature range of 17.2 – 30°C/63 – 86°F. It should be provided with a ‘winter’ period of several months during which it is maintained at relatively low temperatures around 20 – 22.2°C/68 – 72°F or is likely to suffer both reduced fecundity and a shortened lifespan. A value between 22 – 27 °C appears to be optimal in terms of breeding.

pH: 6.5 – 8.0

Hardness: 36 – 215 ppm

Diet

Chiefly a micropredator feeding on small aquatic crustaceans, worms, insect larvae and otherzooplankton.

It can be a little picky in the aquarium and initially may not accept dried or otherwise prepared foods, though in many cases will learn to take them over time.

At any rate it should be offered daily meals of small live or frozen fare such as Artemia nauplii, Daphnia,grindal worm, micro worm, etc., in order to develop ideal colour and conditioning.

Behaviour and CompatibilityTOP ↑

Given its rarity in the hobby, and possibly nature, the emphasis should be on captive reproduction but if you intend to house it in a community tankmates must be chosen with care.

It’s slow-moving with a retiring nature and will easily be intimidated or outcompeted for food by larger or more boisterous tankmates.

Peaceful, pelagic cyprinids such as Danionella, Microdevario, smaller Rasbora species, or diminutive loaches such as some members of the genus Yunnanilus may constitute the best choices.

Though not gregarious in the sense of schooling or shoaling it does seem to require interaction with conspecifics and displays more interesting behaviour when maintained in numbers, meaning the purchase of no less than 6 individuals is recommended.

Sexual Dimorphism

Fully-grown females are noticeably larger than males and thicker-bodied when full of eggs, while males briefly take on a distinctive bicolour pattern of orange and black during courtship.

Reproduction

The first recorded account of captive-spawning in this species was published in the original descriptionby Britz and Kottelat (2002).

It details how a pair came together towards the bottom of the aquarium before performing a spawningembrace similar to that seen in Luciocephalus and Sphaerichthys species in which the pair remain almost upright, rather than the female being turned upside down as in Betta and most other anabantoid genera.

The eggs from this first spawning were removed for study but during an ensuing event they were initially deposited on the base before being moved into a nest comprised of small air bubbles located beneath the corner of a stone.

Subsequent reports suggest that a more typical bubble-nesting reproductive strategy, utilising a floating nest, is normally adopted, but the experiences of several SF members suggest the reality to be somewhat more complex with environmental cues possibly playing a significant role.

Even courtship seems to vary depending on how many individuals are in the tank.

For example, if only a single pair is present the male will ignore the female until she is ready to spawn, whereas when maintained in numbers, groups of multiple, ripe females tend to congregate, displaying to one another until a male approaches.

Courting males exhibit a temporary, but extreme, change in colour pattern with the head region becoming blackish and the remainder of the body bright orange, while also emitting an audible croaking sound to attract female attention.

If several sexually-active females are assembled this combination of aural and visual stimuli often causes them all to approach the male simultaneously with the remainder being driven away once a pair has formed, although the process determining partner selection is somewhat unclear.

At any rate a pair will remain defensive of their space throughout spawning which apparently always occurs near the substrate or within a shelter of some kind (e.g., a length of plastic piping).

Once all eggs are laid and fertilised they are moved to a more secure location for which the fish have been observed to utilise floating or submerged bubble nests, small depressions excavated from the substrate and even the pores within an open filter sponge.

In the latter two scenarios no bubbles were used to adhere the eggs together, while egg deposition and fertilisation were performed in a manner reminiscent of some substrate–spawning cichlids in that they were laid in batches by the female with the male moving in to fertilise them each time.

No eggs or milt were discharged during a brief spawning embrace in this case, whereas in others both were released during the embrace.

Parental care during the incubation period is also variable to an extent. In some cases both adults continue to defend the eggs, whereas in others only the male remains.

Similarly, the eggs may remain in the same place until hatching, or be moved several times by one or both adults.

The incubation period is approximately 3-5 days with the fry free swimming at 7-10 days post-spawning.

At this stage they are still very small and require microscopic foods such as Paramecium or rotifers for the initial period, introducing larger items such as micro worm or Artemia as they grow.

Parental care ceases completely at this point, and some breeders prefer to remove the eggs prior to hatching and raise the fry separately, though if maintaining the adults in a mature, well-planted set-up it may also be possible that some will survive in situ.

Thanks to Colin Dunlop and Frank Strozyk.

Notes

This species is sometimes traded under the names ‘mini chocolate gourami’ or ‘Burmese chocolate gourami’, or misidentified as its congener P. ocellatus, these two comprising the only members of the genus known at present.

P. lineatus can be told apart from P. ocellatus via the following combination of characters: smaller body size (maximum standard length 18.7 mm vs. 32.0 mm); absence of ocellus–type marking in middle of eachflank (vs. presence); presence of dark, mid-lateral stripe (vs. absence); 8-10 anal-fin spines (vs. 11-16).

The two species also differ in some osteological characters.

The genus itself is separated from all other anabantoids by a couple of internal morphological characters, namely a reduced number of vertebrae (25-26, the lowest among the suborder Anabantoidei) plus the fact that Baudelot’s ligament originates from a transversely-orientated process on the first vertebrae close to the joint formed by the first intermuscular bone and the base of the neural arch.

Note: Baudelot’s ligament helps anchor the pectoral girdles to the sides of the fish.

Parasphaerichthys species are often grouped within the Osphronemid subfamily Luciocephalinae along with the genera Trichogaster, Trichopodus, Luciocephalus, Sphaerichthys and Ctenops.

They share with the latter trio an egg structure that is unique among teleosts; the distinguishing factor consisting of a series of spiralling ridges on the outer surface.

This has given rise to the (as yet unproven) theory that the four genera form a monophyletic group, i.e., they share a common genetic ancestor.

In Luciocephalus and Sphaerichthys the eggs are also distinctively pear-shaped suggesting that these two share even closer genetic roots.

Like others in the suborder Anabantoidei this species possesses an accessory breathing organ known as thelabyrinth organ.

So-called due to its maze-like structure this organ allows the fish to breathe atmospheric air to a certain extent.

It’s formed by a modification of the first gill arch and consists of many highly vascularised, folded flaps ofskin.

The structure of the organ varies in complexity between species tending to be more well-developed in those inhabiting particularly oxygen-deprived conditions.

While most labyrinth fishes can be observed taking regular gulps of air from the surface others, including Parasphaerichthys spp., do so less often.

Rivulus torrenticola 3.2cm

Cichlids Dario dario 3cm Dario hysginon 2.1 Dario dayingensis 2.2 Elassoma evergladei 3,4cm Nanochromis minor 2,5cm Nanochromis transvestitus 4cm Nanochromis minor 3 cm Cypriniformes Danio kyathit 2,5cm Danio choprae 3cm Axelrodia riesei 2.5cm Axelrodia stigmatias 2,5cm Axelrodia lindeae 2,5cm Trigonostigma espei 3.0cm Chela dadiburjori 3.0 cm Sawbwa resplendens 2,5cm Barboides gracilis 2cm Barbus hulstaerti 3,5cm Barbus leonensis 3cm Barbus stigmatopygus 2,5cm Barbus sylvaticus 2,5cm Barbus venustus 4cm Barbus jae 4cm Boraras brigittae 3cm Boraras maculatus 3cm Boraras micros 1,3 cm Boraras urophthalmoides 4cm Boraras merah 2cm Oryzias Latipes 3,5 cm Horadandia atukorali 3cm Microrasbora kubotai 1,6cm Microrasbora rubescens 3cm Microrasbora erythromicron 3cm Sundadanio axelrodi 3cm Rasbora axelrodi 3cm Rasbora beauforti 2cm Puntius masyai 2,5cm Rasbora chrysotaenia 3,5cm Rasbora jacobsoni 3,5cm Rasbora beauforti 2cm Rasbora amplistriga 3,5cm Horadandia atukorali 3cm Others: Gobiopterus chuno 3 cm Gulaphallus bikolanus 2,0cm Gulaphallus eximius 3,5cm Gulaphallus mirabilis 3,3cm Gulaphallus falcifer 3,4cm

Pygmy Cory

Scientific Name: Corydoras pygmaeus
Family: Callichthyidae, Sub-Family Corydoradinae

About the Pygmy Cory

Species Type: Freshwater Fish
Category: CatfishCare Level: Moderate. May tolerate only a narrow range of water parameters, have specific dietary requirements including frozen or even live foods, may have behaviors that severely limit potential tankmates or may require a specialized aquarium setup.

Origin: Endemic to the Rio Madeira system in western Brazil. Occurs in small creeks and flooded forest, in large groups around aquatic or marginal vegetation and tree roots.

Compatibility/Temperament: Very peaceful dwarf cory species that is suitable for any aquarium with small, peaceful fish. Must be in a group, at least six but will be much more at ease and healthier with nine or more.

Description

Described and named by Knaack in 1966, this is one of three “dwarf” species of Corydoras; the other two are Corydoras hastatus and C. habrosus, and the behaviours are very similar. All Corydoras species tend to swim throughout the tank, browsing wood, rocks and plant leaves for food, but these species spend considerably more time off the substrate than most of the larger species. They will also frequently join groups of small characins and shoal with them.

The tank should have a fine gravel or sand substrate, so long as it is smooth and not sharp-edged. Pieces of bogwood are appreciated as browsing areas, and aquatic plants. Floating plants will help to shade the light, as this species prefers subdued lighting.

When viewed from above, females are rounder than males, and sometimes slightly larger.

The Corydoras are quite sensitive to water parameters and quality, and highly intolerant of salt, chemicals and medications. Signs of stress usually begin with rapid respiration, then lethargy (often just “sitting” on plant leaves, wood or the substrate respirating heavily, sometimes near the surface) and sometimes rolling onto one side. At such signs, a partial water change of at least 50% with a good water conditioner should immediately be made, and appropriate steps taken to remove the cause. Any sudden fluctuation in water chemistry or temperature often induces shock, causing the fish to “faint” and fall over on its side. Corydoras introduced to new aquaria will settle in better if the tank is established; corys do not adjust well to a new aquarium with still-unstable water conditions and fluctuations. When introduced to a relatively-new aquarium or one with water parameters outside the preferred range, this species will sometimes die within a few weeks.

The dorsal, pectoral and adipose fins are each preceeded by a spine which is actually a hardened and modified ray; the pectoral fin spine can be “locked” into position by the fish; care must be taken when netting corys not to entangle these spines, which can also give the aquarist a nasty jab. They are believed to be a defense adaptation, to lodge the fish in the throat of a predator.

All species in the genus will periodically and fairly regularly swim quickly to the surface for a gulp of air. The fish swallows the air and blood vessels in the hind gut extract oxygen from the air; it is then expelled through the vent the next time the fish breaks the surface for another gulp of air. This adaptation is believed to have evolved so that the fish can survive in poorly-oxygenated water such as drying pools during the dry season. It is however essential to the fish’s well-being that it regularly swallows air.

The genus name is derived from the Greek “cory” meaning helmet, and “doras” meaning skin, incorrectly used here for “armour”; it refers to the dual row of overlapping plates (instead of scales) along the body, comparable to a suit of armour. The species name “pygmaeus” is the Latin for dwarf.

Pygmy Cory Diet

Feeds mainly from the substrate so sinking foods such as tablet, disk and pellets are mandatory; frozen bloodworms or small live worms are relished. Browses plant leaves, wood, rocks continually looking for tidbits of food. Suitable substrate food must be provided; these fish will not survive on left-overs from upper-feeding fish.

Size

Around 1 inch, sometimes attains 1.3 inches.

Minimum Tank Suggestion

5 gallon for a small group.

Ideal water parameters for Pygmy Cory

Soft to moderately hard (hardness to 15 dGH but preferably below 8 dGH) acidic to slightly basic (pH to 7.4) water, temperature 22-26C/71-79F. Long-term it does better in soft, acidic water.

Return to top

Read more: http://www.tropicalfishkeeping.com/profiles/pygmy-cory/#ixzz2XXFo5SNu

Oryzias celebensis (WEBER, 1894)

Celebes Ricefish

Synonyms

Haplochilus celebensis Weber, 1894

Etymology

Oryzias: from the Greek oryza, meaning ‘rice’, in reference to the tendency of some members of the genus to inhabit rice paddy fields.

celebensis: ‘from Celebes’. Celebes is the former name of Sulawesi, Indonesia.

Classification

Order: Beloniformes Family: Adrianichthyidae

Distribution

Described from the Maros River (Salo Maros), southwestern Sulawesi, Indonesia and subsequently recorded from rivers and streams throughout the southwestern arm of the island including Lake Tempe (Danau Tempe), plus the Mota Talau River, East Timor state on the nearby island of Timor.

Type locality is given as ‘Makassar, Maros River near Maros, Sulawesi, Indonesia’.

More recently Herder and Chapuis (2010) reported it to be more widespread on Sulawesi, with new records pertaining to an unnamed small stream within the upper Cerekang River system, close to Lake Matano in the central part of the island (though within the boundaries of South Sulawesi province).

The authors also note that the Cerekang shares its estuary with the Larona River which is the outflow of the Malili Lakes system, and speculate that O. celebensis may have a wider distribution in the area.

Habitat

The Maros area is mostly karstic meaning the rivers and streams there tend to flow over limestone, though not all habitats feature such conditions.

O. celebensis is mostly found in slow-moving or standing waters, often in areas where aquatic plants proliferate.

In Lake Tempe, for example, resident plant species include Ceratophyllum demersum, Pistia stratiotes,lpomoea aquatica, Polygonum sp., Cyperus platystylis and Echinochloa crusgelii.

Maximum Standard Length

25 – 45 mm.

Aquarium SizeTOP ↑

An aquarium with base dimensions of 45 ∗ 30 cm or more is recommended for a group.

Maintenance

Best maintained in a heavily planted set-up, ideally with a dark substrate, patches of dense vegetation, and some open areas.

Other décor can consist of twisted roots and pieces of bogwood, while surface vegetation is also appreciated by the fish.

When maintained under such conditions they’re more likely to display their best colours, and planted aquaria also offer fry a more favourable chance of survival alongside the adults.

Water Conditions

Temperature: 23 – 27 °C

pH: 7.0 – 9.0; will probably fail to thrive if maintained long term in acidic water.

Hardness: 90 – 447 ppm

Diet

Probably a micropredator feeding on small insects, worms, crustaceans and other zooplankton in nature.

In the aquarium it will accept dried foods of a suitable size but should also be offered daily meals of small live and frozen fare such as Daphnia, Artemia, chopped bloodworm, etc., along with good quality, suitably-sized flakes and granules.

Behaviour and CompatibilityTOP ↑

Generally peaceful but doesn’t make an ideal addition to many communities due to its small size.

Should you wish to maintain it alongside other fishes diminutive species enjoying similar conditions such asMicrodevario, Trigonostigma, Pseudomugi and some Danio spp. constitute the best options, whilefreshwater shrimp of the genera Caridina and Neocaridina are also suitable as are most snails.

If the intention is breeding then obviously it should ideally be maintained alone, and we don’t recommend keeping it with other Oryzias spp. due to the potential of hybridisation, already proven in laboratory experiments.

It is mostly non-aggressive towards congeners although rival courting males can be aggressive towards one another, and tends to look most effective and behave more confidently in a group of 8 or more.

Sexual Dimorphism

Adult males are considerably more colourful, possess longer dorsal and anal fins, and have a slimmer body shape than females.

In males the distal margin of the anal-fin is convex and the genital papilla forms a short tube, while in females the anal-fin margin is slightly concave and the genital papilla bilobed.

Reproduction

Quite easy to breed and fairly prolific, with females capable of producing batches of eggs every few days or even on a daily basis when in good condition.

Spawning normally occurs in the early morning, with males darkening in colouration and defending small, temporary territories against one another while attempting to entice females.

The adhesive eggs are typically expelled as a single mass and fertilised simultaneously, after which they continue to hang from the genital pore of the female for a period before eventually being deposited singly or in small clumps among vegetation or other suitable media.

Fine-leaved plants such as Cabomba, Ceratophyllum or Taxiphylum spp. are ideal, but synthetic spawningmops or other artificial alternatives also work.

The incubation period is temperature dependant to an extent but typically 1-3 weeks, and while the adults tend to ignore the eggs they do predate free-swimming fry, though if the tank is densely-planted some will usually survive.

Alternatively the eggs or fry can be removed to a separate rearing container filled with water from the adults tank. Once free-swimming the fry are able to accept microworm, Artemia nauplii, etc.

Caution is recommended when housing juveniles of different ages together as the older will predate on the younger if there is a large enough discrepancy in size.

NotesTOP ↑

This species is infrequently available in the aquarium hobby but is exported on occasion and sometimes referred to as ‘Celebes medaka’.

It has a truncate, rather than lunate or emarginate, caudal-fin which distinguishes it from the congenersO. bonneorum, O. nebulosus, O. nigrimas, O. orthognathus, and O. sarasinorum, and in this respect appears to be a member of a large, unnamed clade or species group containing all other members of thegenus.

It’s further distinguishable from congeners by the following combination of characters: pelvic fins relatively small, usually with 6 rays and not extending past the anterior margin of the genital area; 8-10 dorsal–finrays (usually 8); 20-23 anal-fin rays (usually 22) and in males without bony contact organs; possession of yellow to orange submarginal bands on the caudal-fin lobes; dark brown to black vertically-orientated markings on lower part of flanks.

Members of the family Adrianichthyidae are often referred to collectively as ‘ricefishes’ and were traditionally considered to be members of the family Cyprinodontiformes and thus closely-related to toothcarps.

This misconception is sometimes still upheld despite the fact that Rosen and Parenti reclassified them within the cyprinodontiform sister group Beloniformes as long ago as 1981.

The best-known member of the family is the medaka or Japanese ricefish, Oryzias latipes, which has been widely used as a model organism in genomic and experimental biology for well over a century and was the first vertebrate animal to mate in space during the mid-1990s.

There are currently just two genera included in the family, Oryzias and Adrianichthys, with the historically-recognised groupings Xenopoecilus and Horaichthys having been synonymised with Oryzias by Parenti (2008).

Of the three species previously included in the paraphyletic Xenopoecilius, X. oophorus and X. poptaewere moved into Adrianichthys with the third, X. sarasinorum currently recognised as Oryzias sarasinorum.

In addition the formerly monotypic Indian species Horaichthys setnai is currently classified as O. setnai.