Apropos Hepatica germination

Now that the seeds sale is started, today I will show a small flat with little pots of Hepatica sowings from last year. Sometimes ‘a picture is worth a thousand words’. Have a look at it; the post will be transferred to the Hepatica germination page afterwards.

What else can be said? The seedlings will remain on this stage on for the rest of the season – above ground wise. More is happening below ground with the root system growing on, accumulating reserves for next year growth. Seedlings of this size should not dry out but also beware of overwatering. Less foliage, less watering is the norm. Apply a very light fertilizer once in a while.

The seedlings from the first pot should (and will) be pricked out because the pot is very small; all other pots should wait until next spring, especially those where more seeds are expected to germinate.

The top image features a pot with a sowing from 2021. One seed germinated (spring 2022) and grew up, the remaining seeds germinated only this spring! This means germination in the third year after sowing.

I hope this will draw more appreciation for the amount of work put into obtaining a Hepatica young plant! Never consider that they are too expensive, should you decide to purchase plants. If/when gifted to you, take them with a big thank you.
And my big Thank You to those who persevere in growing these beauties from seeds!

Prepare for the start

The sale of the seeds will start in late evening today after the last seeds of Hepatica japonica are released into the little bags.

 As mentioned, this spring the flowering of various Hepatica has been all over the place; the maturation of seeds follows the same pattern. Most H. acutiloba are ready and the few japonica.
So, even if it is not an ideal situation, we will start the sale for the seeds that are ready now; the others will follow in probably 1-2 weeks-time, hard to tell. This way the first little parcels can be sent right away after the long weekend (we depend on Canada Post).

Links are provided for what’s available at the top of the SEED LIST. What’s available is written in green, all others may become available later.

Click on the names to see the products pages where details and pictures are provided, and please follow the instructions regarding the nr. of pck. allowed per order. ‘Limited’ means the offer is very low.

For the Corydalis, I highly recommend the Corydalis ‘Wildheart mix’, especially if you are not a collector. All sorts of ‘goodies’ are in the mix: seeds from various reds, pink and everything in between with a dash of C. malkensis.

Everything else is the same like in previous years:

All seeds are the result of open pollination and there is no guarantee on the % of seedlings resembling the mother plants, especially for Corydalis.

A minimum of 2 pck. in the cart is required/local orders for shipping.
Sorry no international orders for these seeds; there are suppliers of seeds/plants in EU for Corydalis and Hepatica.

For the sake of speed and workload efficiency, all seeds are shipped double packed in glassine envelopes which are then placed inside a plastic bag, instead of using moist vermiculite. It works very well and allows for faster counting/inventory accuracy/orders preparation. It also allows for easier handling & sowing, especially for customers who are not used with moist packed seeds.

Orders for these seeds can be combined with other species, but keep the adds-on short please. I recommend adding other seeds to the order only if necessary. The inventory has been updated for Lilium and Paeonia species.

Before ordering, please review if necessary:
Growing Corydalis from seeds
Checklist for growing Hepatica from seeds

Welcome May

Hepatica japonica magenta form

All possible Corydalis seeds have been collected; we will wait a few more days to start the sale because the few Hepatica japonica forms which started to flower very early in an exposed location are also almost ready to shed their seeds.

So, we’ll group them together while waiting for all the other Hepaticas. This year the seeds of Hepatica americana and Hepatica acutiloba and some of the Hepatica nobilis forms will mature a bit later; the variations in temperatures play a big role, also the sun exposure.

For example, although Hepatica transsilvanica was one of the first to start flowering this spring, the seeds are not mature yet because it grows in a very shaded location.

Meanwhile, welcome May, much to admire, do, and so little time….

Hepatica japonica seeds catching

Androsace villosa ssp. taurica

Gentiana clusii

Degenia velebitica

Viola adunca var. bellidifolia

Primula ‘Violet Victorians’

Corydalis nobilis

Epimedium ‘Freckles’

Glaucidium palmatum ‘Album’

Aristolochia steupii, iberica

Paeonia mascula ssp. mascula

Paeonia mlokosewitchii

 Adieu to April

…and to bulbous Corydalis

Due to a mild winter this year, the first picture of Corydalis malkensis starting to flower was recorded on March 20th! This is the first Corydalis to flower in our climate. Corydalis paczoskii followed shortly then along the month of April, more and more flowers appeared throughout the garden. As usual, they fared well though a few cold snaps and brief snowy periods. The latest to flower was as always Corydalis cava, which may be also due to its more shaded position.

Corydalis solida

In general, the flowering of bulbous Corydalis has been much better this spring.
I was excited to see flowering well a Corydalis solida of a nice peachy (or coral) color, with dense flowers on short stems. It may receive a name :)

Also, for a solitary clump of a very fragrant Corydalis, of kusnetzovii origin (it may also be a hybrid, although it sets seeds) with densely packed, powdery purple flowers (shown in the gallery).

A few Corydalis solida flowers are still hanging on, but it won’t be for long. As we know, when they prepare to go dormant it is time to check for the seeds and don’t forget that the capsules mature gradually and ‘explode’ to release the seeds.

The first seeds of Corydalis malkensis and Corydalis packzoskii were collected on April 25 and I’m working on Corydalis solida right now.

At BotanyCa, Corydalis solida and allies seeds are provided fresh only, so we may have to start the seeds sale before the Hepatica this year! The start of the sale will be announced as soon as all seeds are collected (there is a special section on top of the Seeds List general offerings).

There are so many posts about bulbous Corydalis, pictures included, on this website that one would wonder if we need any more. I do it as a ritual of passage from early to late spring. They are on my ‘plants I cannot live without’ list, and also on the same list for the spring mama-bumblebees. For all you need to know, click here: Growing Corydalis solida & allies from seeds

Adieu to April and to bulbous Corydalis; welcome May!
To all celebrating this weekend, a Happy Easter with hope for peace, kindness and love among all people!

Corydalis malkensis, 2024

Corydalis paczoskii, 2024

Corydalis solida, 2024

Primula sibthorpii, Corydalis malkensis

Corydalis solida ‘Beth Evans’, 2024

Corydalis solida red fragrant

Hepatica, Corydalis marschalliana

Corydalis cava

Corydalis ex. kusnetzovii fragrant, 2024

 

 

Transplanting seedlings #2

We sowed the seeds, took care of the smallest seedlings and they grew up. I am talking about the indoor started sowings. Those who are sowing outdoors will follow the same procedures later.

Now it is time to prick out (or transplant) some of them.*
*From among species that you shouldn’t prick out in the first year: Arisaema, most monocots in general – Corydalis, Erythronium, Lilium ssp., Fritillaria, Alliums, Crocus, Roscoea; plus other species that only produce cotyledon leaves in the first season like Podophyllum spp. and Glaucidium.

There already is a post on this subject on the Germination page: Pricking – transplanting seedlings.

Phyteuma scheuchzeri seedlings ready to be transplanted

But let’s talk more about it since the final goal is to obtain good plants we can plant in the garden. Most often you will find the popular advice to transplant the seedlings after the first true leaves appear. Maybe it stemmed up from annual vegetables growing.

For perennial species, it is best to treat the seedlings from case to case. Large, fast growing seedlings can be pricked out after the first true leaves grow: Centaurea, Delphinium, Salvia, Helleborus, most Campanula…
Another case when you should transplant fast is for the species that grow long roots and those that dislike transplanting (Astragalus, Oxytropis…).

 

In most cases though the seedlings remain quite small, tiny sometimes, even after the first leaves appear, like it happened with Phyteuma scheuchzeri for example. In these cases, I find it best to wait until the seedlings grow up a bit more, especially if there is space enough in the sowing pot.

Keep in mind that we do not need a lot of seedlings of the same species for our gardens. So, be mindful how many you transplant: 2-4 pots are more than enough. Concentrate on the quality.
Too many pots, and soon you’ll find impossible to take care of all of them, especially when they are outdoors.

Consider transplanting bunches of seedlings/pot (like shown in the image for Phyteuma), this way you will obtain little clumps faster.

My favorite method for most alpine plants who like to be planted at the final location when young: skip the transplanting and plant the whole sowing pot in the rockery (in case you started them very early indoors). That’s my standard for Draba species: sow, grow for a while, acclimatize outdoors and plant in the rockery.

Regardless if you prick out or not the seedlings from the sowing pot, you have to start to gradually acclimatize them outdoors in the spring. Take the trays out for fresh air when it is warming out, and bring them back in the house for the night.

Repeat a few times, while enjoying the spring flowers!

Corydalis solida

Draba dedeana

Hepatica americana, 2024

Pulsatilla ex. styriaca pink

Jeffersonia dubia

Helleborus ‘Cherry Blossoms’

Fritillaria collina, 2024

Pachyphrama macrophyllum

Primula macrocalyx, Lathyrus

Out in the woods – Hepatica americana

…for admiring the second North American native Hepatica: Hepatica americana.
Again, even if there is a whole page dedicated to the Queen of the woodlands on the website and other images with these beauties, this is a celebratory period worth noticing.

In various shades of blue, white, sometimes purple and rarely pink, these little woodland wildflowers of spring are amongst the loveliest plants to be encountered when walking into the forest.
The only problem in April is to find a nice, sunny day when the flowers open (they remain close on rainy and cold days).

The pollination is preponderantly done by wind, although sometime early insects are tricked by the beautiful flowers on sunny days and accidentally may carry pollen to other flowers nearby (the flowers do not have nectar).

I have included on purpose an image where Hepatica americana among Gaultheria procumbens, also Chimaphila umbellata nearby, to emphasize that this species require a slightly acidic substrate for growing well.

Hepatica americana 2024-1

Hepatica americana 2024-2

Hepatica americana 2024-9

Hepatica americana 2024-3

Hepatica americana 2024-5

Hepatica americana 2024-4

Hepatica americana 2024-7

Hepatica americana ‘Apple Blossoms’

Hepatica americana 2024-8

Take a few minutes to read about Hepatica in general, and think about growing a few of these spring beauties in your garden, before fresh seeds become available (somewhere in late May-June).

Please also have a look at the Checklist for growing Hepatica from seeds.

The flower color may change in intensity from buds to the open flowers, and usually is more vivid in colder springs. This is  a Hepatica color chart I’ve done one year to make sure we all speak the same ‘color language’ when talking about Hepatica americana and Hepatica acutiloba flower colors ;)

Out in the woods – spring beauties

Back to the ‘Out in the woods’ posts, with less ‘talk’ and more pictures. But make no mistake there is plenty info on this website to keep you reading about the featured plants.

Hepatica acutiloba fo. rosea

A bit earlier this year, the flowering of Hepatica acutiloba (Sharp lobed-leaf liverwort) has started in the southern regions of Ontario, along with its usual companions. Even if there are many images already on the website, it is an event that needs celebrating.

Depending on the amount of sun the plants get and the weather in the next week, more flowers will gradually open. In my garden, on shaded spots, some plants are still in bud.

For those new to the blog, you can read and see more pictures about Hepatica acutiloba, in general, and Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix in particular – from which seeds are offered almost every year.

There is also the Hepatica page, a FAQ regarding the moist packed seeds, and the Search tab where typing a couple of words will bring to ‘front’ other postings on that particular subject.

Hepatica acutiloba and friends; take advantage of any sunny and relatively warm day to enjoy them!

Sanguinaria canadensis 2024

Claytonia virginica

Caulophyllum thalictroides

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix

Hepatica acutiloba pastel mix2

Hepatica acutiloba 2024-2

Hepatica acutiloba 2024-1

Hepatica acutiloba 2024-3

Hepatica acutiloba 2024

Reading seed coats

Last week we had the simple answer to the ‘up’ and ‘down’ of a seed – sowing wise. Again, do not worry about the position of the seeds when sowing. Due to gravitropism, the radicles will always go ‘down’ and the cotyledon leaf(ves) ‘up’.

For those willing to know more about this subject, theoretically we would be able to tell the up and down of a seed by ‘reading’ the few scars that remain on the seed coat during the seed formation (after fertilisation).

To explain more, a few botanical terms that may not be familiar to all will be used. For clarification I provide links to the excellent botany glossary developed on the Angiosperm Phylogeny Website from Missouri Botanical Garden.

I quote a paragraph from the introductory notes, because I think it should give us all a moment of meditation. Keep in mind that in nature nothing is ‘white & black’, there are endless variations to all situations.

Here we go.

On the seed coat we can identify 2 main scars: the micropyle and the hilum (in most species, but there are exceptions) that can be used to identify the ‘up’ and ‘down’ of a seed. In some cases we can also see a sort of ‘suture’ along the seed, called raphe, and various excrescences  like the caruncle, which is usually near the micropyle.

It is useful to know from what type of ovule the seed was formed.  For the vast majority of flowering plants the seeds are born from an anatropous ovule, so we will consider it as default. In this case, the micropyle is very close to the hilum.

Post-fertilization the micropyle remains as a small pore in the seed coat, which facilitates the entry of oxygen and water into the seed during germination. The radicle of the embryo will emerge through the micropyle.
So, by locating the micropyle on the seed surface, one would know which side is up and which one is down.
What’s simple in theory many times, it is not the same in practice. The micropyle doesn’t persist in all seeds, or it is impossible to see it with the naked eye. But the hilum is often a larger scar (at least on larger seeds), and we can search for it.

We can take Caulophyllum as an example, because for monitoring the embryo development I took many seeds images years ago.

*Also, keep in mind that for practical purposes sometimes we call various fruits ‘seeds’ (the achenes for examples). What we see in this case is the fruit surface not that of the seed coats.

In very rare cases the seeds are ‘born’ from an orthotropous (atropous) ovule. In this case the micropyle is on the same line, opposed to the hilum. A well-known species whose seeds are formed from such an ovule is Symplocarpus foetidus, the skunk cabbage. Same goes for Arisaema (and most of Araceae family).

The germination of skunk cabbage has intrigued me when I first observed it, because the radicle emerge almost at the same time or after with the shoots through the hilum. This has to do also with the fact that the seed embryo can have different sizes and positions in the seed: it can be straight, curved, convoluted and so on.

In the case of the skunk cabbage seeds, you would think there is no up and down at the beginning, but they figure it out soon after germination :-)

Without going into details, there are other sub-variants of the anatropous and orthotropus ovules; it is also worth noticing that in flowering plants most of the ovules are curved.

A simple example is the campylotropus ovule found in the legume family. In this case, the micropyle is almost touching the hilum (see Lespedeza germination).

 

So, in theory it looks good but imagine looking for the micropyle on a poppy seed :-) On the following plate, we can observe though that on the small seeds of Primula sieboldii, the micropyle/hilum area is visible.

A reminder about the SEEDs LIBRARY where those interested can try to locate, where possible, the micropyle/hilum area on various seeds.

1. Arisaema triphyllum (orthotropus ovule); From anatropus ovules 2. Amphicarpaea bracteata; 3. Disporum; 4. Streptopus  amplexifolius; 5. Chamaecytisus hirsutus (with caruncle); 6. Primula sieboldii.

We have a particular situation in the Liliaceae family where by looking at the seeds through a backlight, usually we can see the embryo; even more so after the seeds are imbibed with water. So, it is fairly easy to tell the ‘up’ and the ‘down’ (at pointed end).

Lilium embryo

Fritillaria pudica seeds (imbibed)

Based on other images I have in my ‘germination library’, it looks like most times the root will emerge from the ‘pointed’ side of the seeds; however, not all seeds have such a side.

Asarum canadense germinated seeds

Paeonia suffruticosa germinated seeds

Asclepias exaltata germinated seeds

Epimedium ‘Amber Queen’ OP germination (warm,cold)

Trillium grandiflorum germinating seeds Oct. 7, 2017

Paris quadrifolia germinated seeds

To conclude, sometimes we could tell the up and down of a seed by ‘reading’ the seed coat, especially for medium size and large seeds, but this is not always the case. From the point of view of sowing I don’t think it matters, even for larger seeds. In nature, no one arranges them when they fall on the ground.
A nice weekend to all. Enjoy the season of ten thousand flowers!

Ups and downs

I know that seeds germination is in the mind of all gardeners in early spring.
So, I will try to answer a question someone recently directed (as a comment): “Does anybody know the orientation of the root vs plant ends on the seeds?”

Due to spam attacks, I have been trying to block the comments, because of the huge amount of time needed to sort through the junk for the ‘good’ ones. Somehow they are sneaking through anyway. The above question seemed to be from a legitimate IP address, so let’s have a look at it.

If the question was related to sowing, here’s a simple answer. No matter how you place the seeds in the pots they will find their way, down and up! The roots will always orient in a downward direction and the shoots upwards due to gravitropism. It will not affect the germination or the health of the seedlings. Exceptions may apply only in case of very large seeds (next time about the skunk cabbage germination case); when in doubt, place them sideways.

The easiest way to exemplify this is by looking at seeds germinated out of pots from my ‘germination library’. Notice the Gentiana lutea germinating seeds in a Petri dish positioning by themselves with the roots ‘down’ and the plumule ‘up’. Also, an old image of a Sanguinaria canadensis seedling (part) found in the plastic bag ‘hanging’ to a vermiculite particle. An even better illustration comes from a ‘piece’ of Stylophorum lasiocarpum seedlings grown together in vermiculite in the stratification bag. No one arranged or told them which side is ‘up’ and which is ‘down’.

Gentiana lutea germinated seeds with GA3 solution

Sanguinaria canadensis germinated seed in moist vermiculite

Stylophorum lasiocarpum germinated seeds in Ziploc bag

A couple more images showing germinated seeds of Helleborus caucasicus and Podophyllum peltatum (Mayapple) in moist towel. 
I added a few explanatory notes (click to open the gallery): regardless of the the position the seeds, the radicles are always heading ‘down’ (meaning the ‘down’ of towel). The seeds who were not in the ideal position, start curving their radicle immediately to grow it in the ‘right direction’. This is one of the reasons I do not germinate seeds in moist towel anymore: the radicles get tangled easily in the towel and are very easy to break when taken out.

Podophyllum peltatum germinated seeds 3

Helleborus caucasicus germinated seeds 2

Next time we’ll talk a bit more ‘serious’ about this subject, with a recap of the plant ovules and the post-fertilization marks that can be ‘read’ on the seedcoat surface.  Maybe that will scare the spammers away ;-)

Meanwhile, Happy Easter to all celebrating with a message of peace, joy, hope and happiness!

Happy sowings

An update for this previous post, to show some newly emerged seedlings after using the Miracle Gro mix instead of the Fafard sowing mix: Minuartia michauxii, Silene saxifraga and Silene suecica. There is no need of so many seedlings, reason why I always say – take care when sowing very fine seeds.

Minuartia michauxii seedlings

Silene saxifraga seedlings

Silene suecica seedlings

It is also the time to prick out some of the grown-up seedlings before they become too crowded. Those who need help in this regard please see the: Transplanting and pricking seedlings post from 2020.

With the cold snap upon us, these are very good days to do a bit more warm sowings ;) and/or transplant seedlings.
Mimulus lewisii seedlings (from wild coll. seeds in BC and offered in the fall Seeds List); they should have been transplanted ‘yesterday’, so it’s their turn today.

Mimulus lewisii seedlings

 

Fight back!

We have been deceived into an early spring in Southern Ontario and, as expected, winter returned this week. Temperatures are forecasted to plunge to as low as -10C to – 12C depending on the locality.

Hepatica newly germinated seedlings.

The main reason I am writing this post is mainly related to the winter sowings. Unusual high temperatures over the past two weeks have caused few Hepatica seeds to break dormancy and start germinating. They are difficult to notice at first. Other species shoots may be just under the sowing mix ready to show up (including the 2 years old sowings).
Very low temperatures in this stage are fatal (and you may wonder later why there is no germination!).

So, those who just like me do not have a cold frame for sowings (close it and bundled it up) I advise to take all your sowing pots inside in a garage, or any other such locations (cold basement, cellar). If you don’t have a garage, bundle them with an old blanket, top it with a plastic tarp and keep close to the house (preferably in a sheltered corner).

All my boxes with sowings are in the garage (unheated) right now. Only the germinated pots have been placed under growing lights (in the garage).
Even if you do not have lights, it is preferably to keep the sowings in the dark for a few days than to let them freeze to death (only if there are signs of germination the lights are needed).

With no snow cover or just an inch of fluffy snow, the extreme cold will cause problems also for the new fresh growth/flowers of a few early species: the daffodils are in buds, Hellebores and few others, few Paeonia species are growing shoots, Aconitums, Delphinium fissum have new foliage….I also noticed the first signs of Jeffersonia diphylla and buds on various rockery species. Not to mention the Hepaticas: few in flower, more in flower buds stage and the Corydalis!

What can we do? Perennial plants will not die, but maybe we can continue to enjoy the flowers. Lay thermal blankets in sensitive areas, place reversed pots on top of peonies and Hellebores (preferably lined with microfleece). This method has worked for temperatures down to -7C in previous years. I even placed burlap leftovers I found in the shed in few spots; with a bit of snow, it may make a difference.
We can only hope. Fight back the cold!

 

Re-starting warm sowings

Minuartia michauxii, Stiff sandwort, germinated, fast elongated seedlings in the Fafard mix (all vanished in 2 days)

A weird phenomenon is happening with my indoor sowings one species after another: the seedlings would start to elongate excessively right away after germination, just to vanish in a blink of an eye afterwards (exemplified with Minuartia michauxii). Species like Minuartia, Silene, Luetkea and others like them have done the worst; a few more vigorous ones like Campanula alliarifolia and C. glomerata have surviving seedlings that will be pricked out soon.

It is not the regular damping off of seedlings; I had it happening as well over the years, albeit very rarely. You can read in the following post, how to avoid the damping off for indoor sowing: https://www.gardenmyths.com/damping-off-disease-prevention-treatment/#Preventing_Damping_Off_Disease

I started to analyze what’s different than in the previous years. I am using the same method of sowing, clean pots, the same indoor lights (set at the same height) and the room temperature is as usual.

There is only one thing different: the sowing mix! This year, not having my usual around I used a Fafard I recently purchased. I went to look at the bag more closely. My usual sowing media in the last years has been the Miracle Gro or Pro Mix, to which I added vermiculite or perlite. Comparing the two, we can see the ratio of fertilizers the Fafard mix has. Another difference is that it contains coconut husk but that usually improves the mix drainage and aeration and it shouldn’t be a problem.

Fertilizers ratio comparison (N:P:K) I think this Fafard mix should read: Soil mix for sprouts to eat, like they show in the picture.

I see no other explanation for the excessive and rapid elongation of newly germinated seedlings: the excess of nitrogen and the salt concentration in the little sowing pot cause the fast ‘melting’ of the seedlings. When the concentration of fertilizer is too high in a larger pot, it can be washed out and reduced with each watering, but newly germinated seedlings do not need a lot of watering.

I do not want to waste my time investigating further. In Canada, unfortunately, we do not have standards for the bagged sowing and potting soils, anything goes. It is of course also my fault for not watching closely what’s written on the bag. How many people are doing it? You just grab the bag on the way to the check-out.

Newly germinated seedlings, talking mostly perennials for rockery here not tomatoes and petunias, do not actually need any fertilizer for a while. The introduction of a diluted fertilizer is welcomed later after they have grown up a while, or after pricking. What can one do  besides complaining? I sowed again yesterday in Miracle Gro (where seeds still were still available) plus we can learn from my mistake. I will post an update later.

I mentioned before that it is not good to sow a whole pck. of seeds (keep ½ in case ‘accidents’ happen), now I will add the following to the general sowing advice: have a good look at the added fertilizers in the sowing mix and before sowing a whole flat of pots, better do a trial with a few seeds that germinate very fast. Wait a week to see how the seedlings do and only go full blown sowing after that.

To finish on the bright side, the first seeds of Hepatica are starting to germinate (kept outdoors) and Hepatica transsilvanica is starting to bloom :)

Timing the sowing in springtime

The Crocuses, snowdrops, the first Hepatica in bloom and others announce that spring is in the air, a bit too early this year. It is an exciting time with renewed hope when we all think about new plants to add to the garden and new ones to start from seeds.

Some people plan well ahead about what to grow from seeds; others purchase seeds and plants on the impulse of the moment or after they see nice spring flowering pictures. Then, there are always seeds arriving late from seed exchanges.

Usually late spring orders have in common a combination of species, warm and cold germinators, so I feel obliged to repeat how to proceed at this time in order to obtain the best results with minimum effort. Good timing for sowing is important because seeds can also enter sometimes a second dormancy if not handled improperly.

This is a repeat of an older post with some updates. If you don’t need advice, jump to the end of the post for the first flowers of spring 2024 :-)

Species that are indicated to germinate at warm (15-20C) can be sown right away if you use indoor lighting for growing seedlings or later (April/early May) if you intend to keep the pots outdoors, or to sow the seeds directly on the ground (‘in situ’).
Species that can be sowed ‘in situ’ (Papaver, Lobelia, Campanulastrum, some Viola species.…) – wait until April/early May and cast the seeds in place, incorporating lightly (most such seeds are fine and need light to germinate), keep the area moist and if there are too many critters around you have to place a mesh on top of the sowing location.

Various Fabaceae can be treated with the ‘hot water treatment’ and considered warm germinators. Testing gave good to excellent results  for Hedysarum, Oxytropis, Astragalus, Baptisia, Thermopsis, Lupinus*. It seems that Anthyllis and Lespedeza violacea seeds also reacts to this treatment, only that it has to be repeated many times.
See in the pictures below, how large the Lespedeza seeds that imbibe with water look like; only one seed from that batch is ready to be sown. The roots appear in about a week after that.

Lespedeza violacea after HWT

Lespedeza violacea germination start

The alternative to the HWT is of course the old fashioned method of scarification using sheets of sandpaper.

Species indicated: sow in the fall/winter or as cold/moist stratification – I advise you to keep the seeds packets in the fridge until fall, and then proceed with sowing (in pots or ‘in situ’). You can of course try to provide cold/moist stratification in the fridge, but don’t expect the same good results. Also, you may end up with seeds germinating in June/July and young seedlings by late fall which will withstand poorly the winter cold.

Species indicated to have double dormancy which require first a slightly warm cycle, followed by a cold one in order to germinate (like Hydrophyllum, Euonymus, Actaea and most peonies species) should be sown later in the summer (late June/July/August). This will give them more than enough time to develop the roots until late fall, before the cold cycle begins in the winter. The same goes for two stage warm germinating Lilium species (L. michiganense, L. canadense, L. kesselringianum…).
Again, these cycles can be provided in the house + fridge, but it is too late now to obtain good seedlings by late fall. It is of course anyone’s choice, I can only recommend the best method.

Moist packed seeds: are not sold at this time of the year, with the exception of two years germinators (Caulophyllum, Medeola, when stock supply and temperatures allow). When to sow and how to handle them has been outlined in other posts.

Orchids and other mycorrhizals (Chimaphila, Conopholis): if not using ‘in vitro’ equipment, there is a slight chance that by incorporating the seeds in the garden close to where other orchids/preferred hosts thrive will be successful. This method gave good results also for Castilleja but with the seeds sowed in late fall.

An early March garden walk dedicated to the Women’s Day!

Crocus 2024

Cyclamen coum March 7

Hepatica americana 2024

Hepatica japonica March 7

Helleborus niger

Helleborus purpurascens

Iris ‘Katharine Hodgkin’

Helleborus x hybridus

Iris reticulata

Little March

It is March 1st and the flowering snowdrops announce an early spring. Another confirmation comes from the first Iris reticulata, Eranthis, the well-developed buds of Helleborus, Adonis and Corydalis, as well as chipmunks running around. Setbacks are to be expected for sure, but what’s done is done, or better said, what’s flowering is flowering, and we cannot turn them back.

In Romania, Moldova, and with variations in other South Eastern regions (Bulgaria, Albania, Macedonia, SE Serbia), March 1st is traditionally celebrated and named Martisor (Romania). Here’s a short wiki stub for those willing to read more, and I’ll explain a bit about it.
The word Mărțișor, Mărţişug or Marţ, Martenitza (Bulgarian), comes from the name of the month, March – Martie (Romanian) and Mart (Bulgarian) literally meaning “little March”.

The origin of the tradition is not clear with many researchers pointing to the relation with the ancient New Year’s celebration on the first of March and the god Mars (Martius), which was not only the god of war but also the god of agriculture.

The Mărțișor  tradition is actually a celebration of the passage from the winter into spring, which coincides with the start of a new agricultural season. The white and red string is in fact the most important element. In rural areas, red and white strings were often tied to tree branches, fences and at the house for good luck and prosperity in the coming spring.

Most often, the white and red strings have various trinkets attached to it: good luck bearers like coins, a 4-leafed clover, a horseshoe, a snowdrop or other flowers, ladybugs, butterflies, little figurines, and so on. They are gifted to women and children, depending on the region, and weared most often as a broch (also as a pendant or bracelet) with wishes for a beautiful spring and good luck.

Snowdrops made from metal, glass or ceramic and attached to the white and red string are most often used given their association with the beginning of spring :-)

All in all, this beautiful tradition is announcing the start of spring and, of course, of the new gardening season! People are starting seeds at this time, prepare the beds (where possible), clean and repair their utensils. 

So, today I wish you all a Happy ‘little March’ and a most beautiful spring!

 

 

Updates and Dobrogea self-guided tour

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An update to the HWT treatments of last week: Anthyllis montana and Astragalus missourinesis seeds were the first ones to react; they were sown and the first Anthyllis montana seedling showed up this morning!

It seems that not all Anthyllis are equal, Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea seeds were slower to imbibe, and are still receiving boiled water ‘showers’ at times; the same applies for Lespedeza violacea.

The first warm germinators are also showing up, with the fast germinating (less than one week) seeds of Dianthus nardiformis and Salvia canescens var. daghestanica.
This year I sowed less ‘rarities’ and more leftover seeds of species that I would like to have in greater numbers, and of which would be also good to have more seeds to share with the world.

I praised the Salvia canescens var. daghestanica many times. It is a short lived species here, but very easy to grow from seeds. If you are a sucker for silvery foliage like me this one should not miss from your rockery, scree garden or any other, dry and sunny area.

Dianthus nardiformis in wild habitat, Dobrogea region, Romania

The other species to praise is Dianthus nardiformis ex. Dobrogea, a late summer flowering Dianthus with very fine foliage. It is long lived but got shaded by other plants and didn’t flower well lately.

That’s why we always keep some ‘reserve’ seeds ;) The form grown from wild coll. seeds in Dobrogea is worth taking care of being slightly different than what usually goes around under this name (which I have also grown).

The seedlings of Dianthus nardiformis took me back the memory lane to their sunny and wind swept home, in Dobrogea region of Romania, close to the Black Sea.

Few other species like Centaurea jankae, Paronychia cephalotes and Thymus zygioides are adorning my garden now as a good remembrance token. Those interested are invited to have a self-guided tour of the region and explore some of its plants treasures.

Winter getaway – Dobrogea I

Winter getaway – Dobrogea I

Winter getaway – Dobrogea II

Winter getaway – Dobrogea II

Plant portrait: Centaurea jankae

Plant portrait: Centaurea jankae D. Brândză

 

Something old and something new for 2024

Winter returned yesterday and the kettle was on for tea; the perfect day to start the warm sowings and to test the hot water treatment (HWT) on more species. A customer asked me more details about Lespedeza violacea, Violet bush-clover, seeds recently and I realized that I forgot to check it with the HWT, so it was the first on the list.

Longitudinal section through Lespedeza japonica seed: notice the fully developed embryo, only waiting for proper germination conditions. A thin but very hard seedcoat.

Then, something that I had and never got to grow again: Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea; nothing very special about the kidney vetch, just that I like it and is short lived. I acquired a few seeds from a seedex (and for good measure also Anthyllis montana).
Plus, the new Astragalus missouriensis, which was offered new on the fall Seeds List. I always try to test some of the new seeds additions, which I suspect by association with similar species, to be warm germinators.

For those unfamiliar, please read about the HWT on the Germination page, or use the Search tab looking for ‘hot water  treatment’. I first started to look at this method (in use a long time ago) for species in Fabaceae family, because I dislike the scarification with sandpaper.

Species in this family have only physical dormancy, ie. the embryo is ready to germinate in proper conditions (water imbibition, temperature) but cannot do so because of the hard, impermeable seedcoat. I found an image with a sectioned seed of Lespedeza japonica in an old book, which illustrates well the ‘situation’ inside the seed; those of other Lespedeza including L. violacea are similar.

For many species it is necessary to repeat the treatment because not all seeds will imbibe well after a first soak, and it seems based on the picture that Lespedeza seeds didn’t change much in size and will need a HWT repeat.
See pictures with the fruits (one seeded, indehiscent pods) and seeds and one taken today after the first hot water treatment.

Lespedeza violacea fruits and seeds: 1mm grid

Lespedeza violacea seeds after one HWT

Keep in mind that we cannot generalize that ALL Fabaceae species will react to HWT and germinate at room temperature, but it is definitely worth trying.
The other good alternative is to sow these species in late fall-winter outdoors and let the weather naturally wear down the hard seedcoats.

For the proper warm germinators, a whole batch of Campanula species was sowed (+ few others like Luetkea and Potentilla). I love the bellflowers and try to increase their diversity in my garden. There is one fitted to any location, from sun to shade and from moist to dry; the pollinators know where to find them :)
Something old: Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea in 2017 and something new: Campanula cochlearifolia first time flowering last summer in July.

Anthyllis vulneraria var. coccinea, 2017

Campanula cochlearifolia, July 2023

*Reminder: if you try to germinate something at room temperature and nothing happens after 3-4 weeks, move the pot in a cold location for 1 (2) months and then bring it back to warmth. I never had good results and the patience to wait 3 months for something to germinate at room temperature (like some sources are suggesting).